Chapter VII: Part 7

Whereas I Ferdinando Lord Fairfax, Lord Gen̄all of the Northerne
forces raised for the Kinge, & Parlmᵗ; and Governor of the Towne of
Kingston upon Hull, have received the some of ffoure hundered
pownds, & foure shillings of the Guild, or Brotherhood of Maisters
Pilotts, & seamen of the Trynity howse of the said Towne, for the
use of the King, & Parlmᵗ: I doe hereby grant, bargaine, & sell
sev̄all peices of silver plate conteining in weight one thousand six
hundered ffiftie six ownces, to the said Trynity howse, & their
successours for ever and have delivered the said plate to Willm
Peck, & Willm Rayks Wardens of the said howse to the use thereof. In
witnesse whereof, I have hereto sett my hand & seale the 4th day of
September, Anno dni 1643

Fer: fairfax.

Two days before the signing of this agreement the second siege of Hull had been begun by the Marquis of Newcastle, with a force of 4,000 horse soldiers and 12,000 foot. This had been rendered necessary by the fact that Newcastle’s _Cavaliers_ would not leave their Yorkshire homes on a march southward, while the hated _Roundheads_ remained in possession of a stronghold from which they could with ease ravage the surrounding country. Hence Newcastle wanted, above all things, to gain possession of the town.

The second siege of Hull was very largely a repetition of the first. The besiegers cut off the water-supply, and also succeeded in mounting guns within half-a-mile of the town walls. With these guns much damage was at first done; for by constructing a furnace for the heating of balls, the gunners were enabled to fire red-hot balls over the walls of the town. But this was not for long, Lord Fairfax’s erection of a flanking battery soon putting these guns out of action.

_Photo by_] [_C.W. Mason_

Hull’s Water Gate.[55]

]

At the beginning of the siege the Governor’s son, Sir Thomas Fairfax, who had been driven out of Beverley, had taken refuge within the walls with a large body of cavalry. But horse soldiers are not of much use in repelling a siege, and their horses are likely to be a severe hindrance. So it was in this case; and when the opportunity was afforded by the arrival of some of Oliver Cromwell’s soldiers at Barton, Sir Thomas and his ‘twenty troops of horse’ were ferried across to Lincolnshire.

Footnote 55:

This passage, which connects Blackfriargate and Little Humber Street,
was, in the seventeenth century, the only entrance to the town from
the landing-place on the Humber. It is less than seven feet wide.

On the 22nd of September—a day being held in the town as one of fasting and humiliation—Cromwell himself crossed over the Humber, bringing a fresh supply of muskets and powder. The town was now once more entirely surrounded by water. For a fortnight before this the former Governor’s plan of cutting the rivers’ banks had been carried out, and the Royalists thus compelled to abandon their positions.

Things were going badly for the besiegers. On September 28th their powder magazine at Cottingham was blown up, but whether by accident or by treachery is not known. On October 5th a reinforcement of 500 men crossed over to Hull from Lincolnshire, and six days later the garrison made a successful sally and captured one of a pair of huge guns known familiarly as ‘the Queen’s pocket pistols.’ That night the Marquis of Newcastle determined to raise the siege, and on the 12th of October the besieging army withdrew to York, smaller by one-half than it had been six weeks earlier.

* * * * *

The importance of the two sieges of Hull cannot be overestimated. Had the first been successful, the King would have been in the position to strike a decisive blow before the forces of Parliament were organised. In 1643 the King’s plan of campaign was that his three armies—his own at Oxford, that under Sir Ralph Hopton in Cornwall, and that under the Earl of Newcastle in Yorkshire—should converge on London, the headquarters of Parliament.

But for this plan to succeed two obstacles must be removed. The Parliamentarians held the seaport towns of Plymouth and Hull. The siege of each was undertaken; and the siege of each failed, mainly because Parliament held ‘the command of the sea.’ Thus, in the words of the great historian of the Great Civil War, ‘Hull and Plymouth saved the Parliamentary cause.’

XXIII.
SOME ANCIENT EAST RIDING FAMILIES.

‘My ancestor came over with William the Conqueror,’ boasts one who is proud of his long line of ancestors. ‘So did mine’—‘and mine’—‘and mine’—might say a good number of us. Perhaps we could not prove our statement, but never mind. If we cannot prove that an ancestor of ours did come over with William the Conqueror, no one can prove that he didn’t.

Of course we all of us had ancestors living somewhere or other in the year 1066, but there are very few who can identify those ancestors. How many of us can trace back our pedigree for a couple of hundred years? Few probably. But the family descent of some of our countrymen and countrywomen can be traced back for several hundred years. These are our nobles and landed gentry.

Thus the descent of the present Baron Hotham of South Dalton can be traced back, through the Sir John Hotham who defied King Charles I., to an ancestor who in the twelfth century changed his name from De Trehouse to Hotham; that of Major Chichester-Constable of Burton Constable to an Ulbert Constable who lived in the reign of Henry I.; that of the Duchess of Norfolk to a William Fitz Nigel, who was Lord of Flamborough in the same reign; that of Mr. W. H. St. Quintin of Scampston Hall to a Sir Herbert de St. Quintin who was one of the companions-in-arms of William the Conqueror; and that of the Duke of Northumberland and Earl of Beverley to a Willelmus de Perci, who ‘came over with the Conqueror’ in the year 1067.

* * * * *

Proudest of all the proud nobles of the North were the PERCYS, whose descent from Willelmus de Perci has just been mentioned. Willelmus took his surname from the village of Perci in Normandy, and himself boasted a descent from one of the companions of that Rolf the Viking who sailed up the Seine in the year 912. _Als Gernons_ he was nicknamed, from his habit of wearing whiskers, whence the name ‘Algernon’ which was given generation after generation to the male members of the family.

In the Domesday Book Willelmus de Perci is recorded as the tenant-in-chief of more than a hundred manors in Yorkshire, and of twenty-three in Lincolnshire. Among the former were Leconfield, Scorborough, and Nafferton; among the latter Immingham. Willelmus was one of the Norman knights who accompanied Duke Robert of Normandy in the First Crusade, and he died at Mountjoy within sight of the Holy City.

Century after century the Percys took part in all great affairs of state. A Percy fought in the Battle of the Standard, another took part in the signing of Magna Carta at Runnymede, another was taken prisoner with the King at the battle of Lewes, another fought in the great naval victory of Sluys, and helped to win the battle of Neville’s Cross six years later.

The thirteenth Baron Percy was created Earl of Northumberland on the day of Richard II.’s coronation. But he and his son ‘Harry Hotspur’—the hero of the famous battle known as ‘Chevy Chace’—befriended Henry of Lancaster when he landed at Ravenser Spurn. Afterwards, however, both father and son rebelled, and Hotspur met his death at Shrewsbury, while his father was slain at Bramham Moor, in Northumberland. Hotspur’s son, the second Earl, fell at the battle of St. Albans which opened the ‘Wars of the Roses,’ and his grandson, the third Earl, fell at Towton six years later. Such a race of fighters were the Percys.

Most princely of the line was Henry Algernon Percy, the fifth Earl, nicknamed ‘Henry the Magnificent.’ He took part in the Field of the Cloth of Gold, and ruined himself by the expense there entailed. This Henry Percy possessed a castle at Wressle, and a fortified manor-house at Leconfield—the latter a large house standing ‘withyn a great Mote,’ and built ‘three partes ... of tymbere,’ the fourth part being ‘of stone and some brike.’ The ‘Mote’ remains, but all traces of the ‘large House’ with its eighty-three rooms have disappeared.

_Photo by_] Wressle Castle. [_C.W. Mason_

]

Wressle Castle, or rather a part of it, still exists—the only ancient castle in the whole of the East Riding. Built in the closing years of the fourteenth century, it remained the chief Yorkshire seat of the Percys till the time of the Great Civil War; when orders for its destruction were issued by a Parliamentary Committee at York, although the owner—the tenth Earl of Northumberland—had sided with Parliament against the King.

The castle was built round a central courtyard, and in 1650 three sides of the square were pulled down, only the south side being left standing. A fire which broke out about 120 years ago completed the destruction of the interior of this remaining side, so that what exists to-day is a mere shell.

This block of buildings contained the Great Chamber or Dining Hall, the Drawing-Chamber, and the Chapel. The last was afterwards used as the Parish Church. On its ceiling was painted the Percy motto:—

=Esperance en Dieu ma Comforte.=

Above the chapel was a small chamber which is thus described by a visitor in the reign of Henry VIII.:—

One thing I likid exceedingly yn one of the Towers, that was a
Study, caullid Paradise; where was a Closet in the midle, of 8
squares latised aboute, and at the Toppe of every square was a Desk
ledgid to set Bookes on Cofers withyn them, and these semid as
yoinid hard to the Toppe of the Closet; and yet by pulling, one or
al wold cum downe briste higthe in rabettes,[56] and serve for
Deskes to lay Bokes on.

Footnote 56:

_Rabbets_ are grooves cut in the edge of a piece of wood.

Much interesting information as to life in a mediæval castle can be gleaned from what is known as _The Northumberland Household Book_.[57] The original manuscript of this was prepared in 1512 by the orders of Henry the Magnificent, and gives a detailed account of the estimated household expenditure for a year and of the regulations of the household.

Footnote 57:

A reprint was published in 1905 by A. Brown & Sons, Ltd.

From this book we learn that the staff at Wressle Castle consisted of 166 persons, of whom eleven were priests, and that ‘the Hole Expensys ... for oone hole Yere amounted to DCCCCXXXIIJ_L._ VJ_S._ VIIJ_D._’ It is strange to find that beds, hangings, and furniture were moved from one residence to another when the Earl travelled, and that there is no mention of glass among the table requisites, vessels for eating and drinking being solely of wood or pewter.

For travelling and for hunting the Earl’s stables contained _vj Gentle Hors_, _iiij Palfreis_ (one for my Lady and three for my Lady’s gentlewomen), _iij Naggs_, _iij Sumpter Hors_ and _Mail Hors_ (for carrying the bed, coffers, and coats of mail), vij Hors for the use of servants, and _vij Charriot-hors to drawe in the Charriot_.

* * * * *

Very precise rules are given for the serving of meals. Breakfast was served at eight, and dinner at eleven, each morning. Among the rules to be observed for the serving of meals are these:—

First when they go to Cover, Hee [the Usher] must go before them
through the Hall, crying ‘By your leaves Gentlemen, stand by.’

If any unworthy Fellow do unmannerly sett himself down before his
Betters, he must take him up and place him lower.

Let the best fashioned and apparrelled Servants attend above the
Salte, the Rest belowe.

If one Servant have occasion to speak to another about Service att
the Table, let him whisper, for noyse is uncivil.

What my Lord and Lady had to eat for breakfast is shown in the following extracts:—

BRAIKFASTIS OF FLESCH DAYS DAYLY
thorowte the Yere.

BRAIKFASTIS for my Lorde and my Lady.

FURST a Loof of Brede in Trenchors ij Manchetts[58] j Quart of Bere
a Quart of Wyne Half a Chyne of Mutton or ells a Chyne of Beif
boilid.

Footnote 58:

Small loaves of white bread.

During Lent no breakfast was allowed on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, but on the other days of the week there were provided in place of ‘meitt’:—

ij Pecys of Saltfisch vj Baconn’d Herryng iiij White Herryng or a
Dysche of Sproits.

What the Earl’s children had for breakfast in the nursery is similarly shown:—

BRAIKFASTS for the Nurcy for my Lady Margaret
and Mr. Yngram Percy.

ITEM a Manchet j Quarte of Bere and iij Muton Bonys boilid.

Or, during Lent:—

ITEM a Manchet a Quarte of Bere a Dysch of Butter a Pece of
Saltfisch a Dysch of Sproits or iij White Herryng.

Among the household necessaries to be provided are:—_Wheet_, _Malte_, _Beefis_, _Muttuns_, _Gascoin Wyne_, _Poorks_, _Veelis_, _Lambes_, _Stokfish_, _Salt Fishe_, _Whyt Hering_, _Rede Herynge_, _Sproits_, _Salmon_, _Saltt Elis_, _Fieggs_, _Great Rasins_, _Hopps for Brewynge_, _Hony_, _Oile_, _Waxe_, _Weik for Lightys_, _Bay Saltte_, _White Saltte_, _Parishe Candell_, _Vinacre_, _Lynnon Clothe_, _Brass Pottis_, _Mustarde_, _Stone Crusis_, _Rughe Pewter Vessel_, and _All Manner of Spices_—_Piper_, _Rasyns of Corens_, _Prones_, _Gynger_, _Clovvez_, _Sugour_, _Allmonds_, _Daytts_, _Nuttmuggs_, _Rice_, _Safferon_, and _Coumfetts_—_See Cholys_, _Char Cholis_, _Fagoots_, and _Greet Woode_, ‘bicause Colys will not byrne withowte Wodd.’

For the great feasts during the year xx _Swannys_ were to be provided from the Earl’s Carr at Arram, in addition to xxix _Does_ and xx _Bukks_ from his Parks at Leconfield and elsewhere. So also for my Lord’s table were to be bought _Capons_, _Geysse_, _Chekyns_, _Pegions_ (‘iij for j_d._’), _Cunys_ (‘ij_d._ a pece’), _Pluvers_ (j_d._ a pece’), _Mallardes_, _Woodcokes_, _Seegulls_ (‘j_d._ a pece so they be good and in season’), _Styntes_ (‘vj for j_d._’), _Quaylles_, _Snypes_, _Pertryges_, _Redeshankes_, _Dottrells_, _Bustardes_ and _Larkys_ (‘xij for ij_d._’). _Hearonsewys_,[59] _Bytters_,[59] _Fesauntes_ and _Kyrlewes_ were to be paid for at the rate of ‘xij_d._ a pece’; but the most expensive dish was one of _Cranys_, which cost ‘xvj_d._ a pece.’

Footnote 59:

Herons and Bitterns are known to-day in the East Riding as
‘herrin-sews’ and ‘buttherbumps.’

What high junketings there must have been at Wressle Castle in the days of ‘Henry the Magnificent’! Did the feasters afterwards pay for their over-indulgence in rich food? An answer may perhaps be supplied from the purchase of ‘xxx Saks of Charcoill for Stilling of Bottells of Waters’—_Water of Roses_, _Water of Harts Tonge_, _Water of Parcelly_, _Water of Walnott Leeffs_, _Water of Prymeroses_, _Water of Cowslops_, _Water of Tandelyon_, _Water of Marygolds_ and many others—‘all worth,’ each penitent would doubtless declare, ‘xxj_s._ a bottell.’

* * * * *

In chapter XV. mention was made of the _Percy Tomb_ in the chancel of Beverley Minster. The magnificent canopy of this was built in memory of Eleanor Fitz Alan, wife of Henry Percy of Alnwick, who died in 1328. Henry Percy, fourth Earl of Northumberland, lies buried in the _Percy Chapel_ at the extreme east end of the Minster, and the wife of another Henry Percy lies buried in Hessle Church. But of her burial there is no record but a simple brass inscribed:—

=Here vnder lieth Daim an percy wyff=
=to sir Henry percy=....

_Photo by_] [_C.D. Holmes_

The Percy Tomb, Beverley Minster.

]

Other proud nobles of our Riding were the WAKES and the CLIFFORDS. Hugh Wac married the daughter of Gilbert of Gaunt, the first Earl of Lincoln, and his son Baldwin assisted at the coronation of King Richard I. A descendant, the first Baron Wake, fought in the Scots wars of Edward I. Thomas, the third Baron, was granted by Edward III. leave to convert his manor-house at Cottingham into a castle. From him the Wakes of Somerset claim descent.

On the chancel floor of Londesborough church may be seen the brass of Margaret, Lady Clifford and Vescy, the wife of the Lord Clifford whom Shakspeare calls ‘bloody Clifford.’ This Lord Clifford fought on the Lancastrian side at the disastrous battle of Towton, and was one of the many nobles there slain. During twenty-four years after the battle Henry, Lord Clifford’s son, lived in disguise as a shepherd on the moors round Londesborough and on the hills of Cumberland, thus earning the name of ‘shepherd lord.’ But the battle of Bosworth Field restored the fortunes of the family, and the ‘shepherd lord’ then regained ‘the estates and honours of his ancestors.’

The descendants of Henry, Lord Clifford, became Earls of Cumberland, and the heiress to the Earldom married Richard Boyle, the first Earl of Burlington. Their great-grandson, the third Earl of Burlington, was famed for the rebuilding of Burlington House, London, and for the planting of the ‘Londesborough Clumps.’ This was between the years 1703 and 1753.

From the third Earl of Burlington the Londesborough estates passed in descent to the Dukes of Devonshire, one of whom pulled down its ancient Hall, and afterwards sold the estates to George Hudson, the ‘Railway King.’ By further purchase they devolved upon the present Earl of Londesborough.

* * * * *

Older than the Cliffords are the CONSTABLES, of whom there are in the East Riding two distinct families. Robert Constable, the son of Ulbert, possessed the manor of Halsham in the reign of King Stephen; and from him is descended Major Chichester-Constable, Lord of the Seigniory of Holderness, and owner of Burton Constable Hall.

In the year 1133 was living a certain William Fitz Nigel, Constable of Cheshire and Lord of Flamborough. From him descended Sir Marmaduke Constable of Flamborough, who, when seventy-one years of age, fought together with his four sons in the battle of Flodden. Sir Marmaduke lies buried in the church at Flamborough, where, on his tomb, is a brass inscription recording his exploits. Part of it is here given:—

=Here lieth Marmaduke Cunstable, of fflaynborght, knyght,=
=Who made aduentore into ffrance, and for the right of the same=
=Passed over with Kyng Edwarde the fouriht, yt noble Knyght;=
=And also with noble King Herre, the seuinth of that name.=
. . . . . . . .
=But for all that, as ye se, he lieth under this stone.=

BRASS OF SIR THOMAS DE ST. QUINTIN IN HARPHAM CHURCH. ABOUT A.D. 1420.
]

The Sir Robert Constable who took part in the Pilgrimage of Grace and was hanged in chains over the Beverley Gate at Hull was Sir Marmaduke Constable’s eldest son. With his execution the fifty-one manors that he held were forfeited to the King, but some of these were restored to his descendants by Edward VI. and Queen Elizabeth. The last of the Constables of Flamborough took the side of the Parliamentarians in the Great Civil War, and signed the death-warrant of the King.

From the second son of Sir Marmaduke Constable descended the Constables of Everingham, to which house belongs the Duchess of Norfolk, daughter of the late Baron Herries. From Sir Marmaduke’s nephew descended the Constables of Wassand, whose representative to-day is Mr. Henry Strickland Constable of Wassand Hall.

* * * * *

Another East Riding family whose ancestor ‘came over with the Conqueror’ is that of the ST. QUINTINS, whose name is derived from a town in the north of France. Sir Herbert de St. Quintin held the manors of Skipsea, Mappleton and Brandesburton in the reign of Henry I. On the floor of the chancel of Brandesburton church are the brasses of Sir John de St. Quintin, who died in 1397, and his wife Lora.

Several members of the family lie buried in Harpham Church, where are the altar tombs of Sir William de St. Quintin, who died in 1349, and his wife; the brasses of Sir Thomas de St. Quintin and his wife Agnes, dating from about 1420; and the brass of another Thomas de St. Quintin, who died in 1445.

Sir William St. Quintin was Member of Parliament for Hull in the reigns of William III., Anne, and George I.; and Mr. William Herbert St. Quintin, of Scampston Hall and Lowthorpe Lodge, is the present representative of the family.

* * * * *

EFFIGY OF A KNIGHT IN PLATE
ARMOUR IN THE HILTON CHAPEL AT
SWINE CHURCH. ABOUT A.D. 1350.
]

The ancient family of BOYNTONS took its name from the East Riding village of Boynton. By marriage with the heiress of the Sir Martin de la Mare mentioned at the close of Chapter XVII., the family became possessed of the manor of Barmston; and in 1614 Matthew Boynton married Frances, daughter of Sir Henry Griffith of Burton Agnes. Four years later he was created a baronet by James I., and forty years later his son, Sir Francis Boynton, succeeded to the Burton Agnes estates. Sir Griffith Henry Boynton of Barmston, and Mrs. T. L. Wickham-Boynton of Burton Agnes Hall, are his descendants.

Burton Agnes Hall is famed as being ‘one of the most beautiful Tudor houses in Yorkshire.’ Parts of a building to the west of the Hall go back to about the year 1170, and some of its woodwork dates from the middle of the fifteenth century. But the Hall itself was built in the early years of the seventeenth century, and the date 1601 and the initials of Sir Henry Griffith and his wife are carved in the stonework over the main doorway.

* * * * *

Taking part in the Wars of the Roses was a Robert Hildyard of Winestead, famed widely as ‘Robin of Redesdale.’ Winestead came into possession of the HILDYARDS by the marriage of this Robert with the heiress of the HILTONS, three of whose altar tombs remain to-day in the Hilton chapel of the church at Swine.

Another Robert Hildyard had command of a King’s regiment of horse in the Great Civil War, and for his services in this was knighted and afterwards created a baronet. There are in Winestead Church fragments of large brasses, an altar tomb, and a wall monument, to different members of this family; to a younger branch of which belong the Hildyards who have for many generations been rectors of Rowley.

* * * * *

EFFIGY OF A KNIGHT IN
CHAIN ARMOUR IN THE
SALTMARSHE CHAPEL AT
HOWDEN CHURCH.
ABOUT A.D. 1280.
]

How early the SALTMARSHES of Saltmarshe, near Howden, took their name is not definitely known. Sir Edward de Salso Marisco was Member of Parliament for Beverley in 1299, and a Geoffrey de Saltmersc held lands at Swinefleet about 1170. Their ancestor is said to be Lionel Saltmarshe, who was knighted by William the Conqueror in 1067. Colonel Philip Saltmarshe is the representative of the family to-day.

* * * * *

Last to be mentioned here are the STRICKLANDS of Boynton. The family had its origin at Marske, in the North Riding, and a Sir Thomas de Strickland bore the banner of St. George at the battle of Agincourt.

William Strickland, who purchased the manor of Boynton in 1549, sailed when a youth to the New World with Sebastian Cabot, and helped to discover Labrador and Newfoundland. He is said to have introduced the turkey into our country—a deed commemorated in the family crest. His descendant was created a baronet by King Charles I., and the present Sir Walter William Strickland, of Boynton Hall, is the ninth holder of the title.

Readers of _Tom Brown’s School-Days_ will all remember the hero’s friend Martin, his second in the historic fight with Slogger Williams. ‘The Madman’ was his name among his fellow school-boys, but it was as Sir Charles Strickland that he was known in the neighbourhood of Boynton.

XXIV.
STAGE COACH AND RAILWAY.

Travelling for pleasure is something that we all understand. But our forefathers a few centuries ago would have thought a person mad if he had said he was going to take a journey for pleasure. Merchants had to travel, and so had messengers; but ordinary folk stayed at home, unless the burden of their sins moved them to undertake a pilgrimage to some far-off shrine. Such journeys were performed on horseback or afoot, but invalid women and infirm old men might use a horse-litter.

ON THE ROAD IN 1812.
AN EAST RIDING STAGE WAGGON.
]

Until the reign of Queen Mary I. there was in England no such thing as a coach. The lumbering _stage waggon_ with wheels ten or twelve inches wide, and drawn by eight or ten horses attended by a driver who rode on the back of a pony, came into use during the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Its successor, the _stage coach_, was not invented till the time when King Charles paid his first visit to Hull.

Two years before the accession of Charles II., a regular coach service from London to York was announced, the coaches to make the journey three times a week in the advertised time of four days. But this time was largely exceeded as a rule, and at nearly the close of the century we find the coach taking six days to reach London from York.

The development of road travel may be said to date from the year 1662, when an Act of Parliament was passed for improving the condition of the main roads, permission being granted to those local authorities that desired it, to erect toll bars and charge travellers for the privilege of using the roads when put into repair. Yorkshire roads in particular were notoriously bad, as the letter written to Thomas Cromwell in 1538 shows.[60]

Footnote 60:

See pages 199–200.

But few local authorities stirred themselves in the matter of road improvement, and an old coach bill still preserved at the _Black Swan_ in Coney Street, York, has a very significant reminder of the dangers attending the journey to London in 1706:—

All that are desirous to pass from London to York, or from York to
London ... may be received in a Stage Coach every Monday, Wednesday,
and Friday, which performs the whole Journey in Four Days (_if God
permits_).

As an example of the TURNPIKE ACTS which became numerous as the eighteenth century slipped away, may be taken the ‘Act for Repairing the Road between the Town of Kingston upon Hull, and the Town of Beverley in the East Riding of the County of York.’ This came into force on May 1st, 1744. By it Trustees were appointed

for the surveying, ordering, amending, and keeping in Repair, the
said Road ... and they ... shall and may erect, or cause to be
erected, a Gate or Gates, Turnpike or Turnpikes, in or cross any
Part or Parts of the said Road, and also a Toll-house or Toll-houses
in or upon the same; and shall receive and take the Tolls and Duties
following, before any Horse, Mare, Gelding, Mule, Ass, Cattle,
Coach, Chariot, Landau, Berlin, Chaise, Calash, Chair, Hearse,
Litter, Waggon, Wain, or Cart, or other Carriage whatsoever, shall
be permitted to pass through the same.

The tolls payable varied from one-and-sixpence for a six-horsed coach, or a waggon drawn by five or more oxen, to three half-pence for an ‘Ass, not drawing.’ A drove of oxen was charged tenpence, and one of swine or sheep fivepence, per score.

Thus the users of a road paid for its upkeep, the very necessary reservation being made that no tolls were to be demanded in the case of men and vehicles engaged in farming operations; nor for waggons carrying hay or straw to be laid in the houses of the people in the neighbouring parishes and townships;[61] nor from persons attending the funeral of a parishioner, or attending ‘Church, Chapel, or other Place of Religious Worship on Sundays’; nor from voters going to and returning from the poll.

Footnote 61:

The floor of the Council Chamber at the Hull Trinity House is still
strewn with rushes, these being changed about every six weeks.

As the result of such Turnpike Acts’ being enforced, stage coaching increased considerably; and the year 1760 saw the birth of _Flying Machines on Steel Springs_, that got through the journey from Leeds to London in the short space of three days. But the journey was still accomplished at some considerable amount of personal discomfort; for the ‘outside’ passengers had to stand all the time in a kind of huge basket slung behind the body of the coach.

From 1785, in which year the Royal Mails began to be conveyed by stage coach, travel increased by leaps and bounds; and stage coaching may be said to have reached the height of its prosperity about 1835.

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

The old coaching roads of the East Riding are shown on the map given on the opposite page. Most frequented of all was that from Hull to York—in part the Roman road over Barmby Moor. From Beverley to Bridlington there were alternative routes used by rival coach proprietors. The announcement of one of these reads as follows:—

The BRITISH QUEEN leaves the Stirling Castle, Bridlington Quay, at
Seven every morning (Sundays excepted), by way of Brandsburton and
Beverley, and arrives at the Kingston and Vittoria Hotels, the
George and Bull and Sun Inns, Hull, at Eleven in the Forenoon. The
Coach returns in the afternoon, at four, by the same route, after
the arrival of the Barton Packet with the Express Passengers from
London, and arrives at the Stirling Castle, Bridlington Quay, at
Eight o’clock in the evening.

The BRITISH QUEEN will be found a delightful conveyance to
Bridlington Quay, on account of the Road for the last Six Miles
being close to the Sea Side, and passing through a most beautiful
part of the country.

So say the proprietors of the _British Queen_. But what have those of the rival coach to tell us?

The Public are respectfully informed that the WELLINGTON leaves the
Cross Keys General Coach Office, Hull, every morning, at Six, to
Beverley, Driffield, Bridlington and Quay, Hunmanby, and Filey, and
arrives at the Bell Inn and Blacksmith’s Arms, Scarbro’, at Twelve;
proceeds at Four to Whitby, Guisbro, Stockton, Sunderland, Shields,
Durham, Newcastle, and Edinbro’. Seats secured at any time.

* * * * *

The Road by Driffield is so well known as to be universally
recommended. The Sea having made such dreadful havoc of the
Brandsburton Road during the last few years as to render it
dangerous travelling that way, being, for five or six miles, quite
at the edge of the cliff.

Both these advertisements appeared in the columns of the _Hull Packet_ in 1833; and timorous old ladies who wished to journey from Hull to Bridlington in that year were no doubt very thankful to the proprietors of the _Wellington_ for making so clear the dangers of the road traversed by that ‘delightful conveyance,’ the _British Queen_.

Still standing by the side of what is now Cardigan Road at Bridlington, there is a mile stone informing all who desire the information that Beverley is distant 22 miles. It is on the old coaching road once traversed daily by the _British Queen_. But a few hundred yards past this relic of the old coaching days the road now reaches the sea-shore, and the remaining portion as far as Barmston has long since disappeared under the waves of the North Sea.

* * * * *

Very pleasant it must have been in the ‘Thirties’ to travel by a well-appointed stage coach—say the _Rockingham_, _Rodney_, _Trafalgar_, _Wellington_, _True Briton_, _Express_, _Telegraph_, _King William_, or _Queen Adelaide_, all of which coaches were running from Hull in 1832.

But this would be, of course, provided the weather were fine, and one could afford to travel ‘first class.’ It would not be pleasant to have to get out and walk uphill as the ‘second class’ passengers were expected to do in the case of a coach running from North Cave to Hull through Brantingham and Hessle; and it would be decidedly unpleasant to have to get out and push behind, as was demanded of the ‘third class’ passengers by this coach.

But there was always the danger of highwaymen to be faced, and the Royal Mail travelled ‘with a guard well armed,’ as the coaching bill reproduced on page 241 shows.

And what of winter travelling, with the thermometer down below freezing-point and the risk every minute of the coach’s being stuck fast in a snow-drift on a part of the road ‘five miles from anywhere’? Here are two local records which testify to the existence of such discomforts:—

_Photo by_] [_C.W. Mason_

Pistols and Holsters formerly used on the Hull and Patrington Stage
Coach.
(Now in the possession of Dr. J. Wright Mason, Hull)

]

1839. Jan. 7. A dreadful storm visited the country.... For an hour and a
half the Scarbro’ mail coach horses could not contend against the
wind. The inside passengers of the Beverley coach had to get out
and support the vehicle from being overturned.

1846. Dec. 15. Turnpike roads impassable with snow. Scarborough mail
coach unable to proceed beyond Bridlington. Narrow escape of
several persons from being frozen to death on the highways.

Ten years before stage coaches reached the height of their prosperity, a new era had begun—the era of the RAILWAY. The first railway to be used for passenger traffic was one between Stockton and Darlington, and in the year of its opening another from Leeds to Selby was being planned by the great engineer, George Stephenson.

This, as originally planned, was to be of a length of 20 miles. Near Leeds there were to be three inclines, up each of which the train was to be hauled by a fixed engine stationed at the summit. The rest of the line was to be worked either by a travelling engine or by a horse.

The latter could, it was calculated, be very profitably employed. For his work would only be needed on the flat and up the slight inclines; and for six or seven miles on the journey from Leeds to Selby he could be ‘thrown off’ and could ride ‘in his own carriage behind the train of waggons,’ until his services were again required. Such was Railway Engineering in its infancy.

The Leeds and Selby Railway Company having been formed, work was proceeded with on plans drawn up by another engineer, Mr. James Walker, and the line was declared open for traffic in 1834.

In the following year a new Company, known as the Hull and Selby Railway Company, was formed, with Mr. Henry Broadley as Chairman. An Act of Parliament ‘for making a Railway from Kingston-upon-Hull to Selby’ was then obtained, and the work of constructing the new railway was pushed forward rapidly.

This, the first terminal railway to be constructed in the Riding, was expected to bring with it great advantages. By it Hull would be linked to Manchester, and Manchester was already linked to Liverpool. Thus there would be direct railway communication across England from the North Sea to the Irish Sea.

But, for all this, the scheme met with great opposition. Hull and Selby were already served by steam packets travelling along the Humber and the Ouse, and this service was deemed so satisfactory that there was little chance of the new railway’s proving a commercial success.

Objections were also raised by some of the large landowners, who feared that the introduction of the railway would very largely decrease the value of their properties along its route. Such objectors had, of course, to be conciliated—as was Mr. Raikes of Welton, by a gift of £10,000 and an undertaking to build a station at Brough instead of at Welton.

* * * * *

July 2nd, 1840, saw the opening of the first terminal railway in our Riding, amid scenes of wild enthusiasm at both Selby and Hull, as well as at the various stations along the line. The first train from Hull to Selby—as reported in the _Hull Packet_—‘started about a quarter past twelve, and was nearly two hours in going to Selby. In returning, however, the Prince performed the trip, 31 miles, in one hour and five minutes.’[62]

Footnote 62:

The _Prince_ was one of the five engines employed on the new line. The
fastest non-stop run in the British Isles to-day is that made on the
N.E.R. from Darlington to York, when 44-1/4 miles are covered in 43
minutes—an average speed of 61.7 miles per hour.

The first East Riding time-table was a very modest affair, as will be seen from the reproduction overleaf. The order of arrangement of the train is seen to be:—Engine and tender, goods waggon, second-class carriage, first-class carriage, and third-class carriage; but the last-named is on this occasion occupied by four-legged passengers. It is recorded that when the passengers in this were two-legged cattle, ‘a great number of hats were lost’ and many ‘colds and inconveniences’ were caught—facts at which we shall probably not be surprised.

Several of the regulations of the Hull and Selby Railway seem very quaint. It was the duty of a _station-keeper_ ‘to conduct himself civilly,’ and ‘to enter on a waybill the number, class, and destination of the passengers sent by each train.’

The _guard’s_ duties were very numerous. Among them—

He shall not allow any of the passengers to smoke in the trains, nor
in any manner to endanger themselves by imprudent exposure. No
passenger shall be allowed to ride on the outside of a carriage
without leave from the general superintendent. In the event of any
passenger being intoxicated, or disorderly, so as to annoy other
passengers, the guard shall use all gentle means to stop the
annoyance, and if he does not succeed, he shall set him down at the
next or most convenient station, and report the circumstance.

The new method of travelling proved very popular. In 1841 the number of passengers carried by the Hull and Selby Railway amounted to 212,000, ‘without the slightest accident to any of them.’ This was the beginning of the days of the ‘cheap tripper,’ and it is recorded that on August 22nd, 1844—

A pleasure train from Hebden Bridge and Luddington Foot brought
3,200 persons [to Hull] in 82 carriages; being the longest train
that ever visited the town.

In many cases the railway train, steam packet, and stage coach ran in conjunction. Thus the journey from Hull to Knaresborough was completed in the following three stages:—

Hull to Selby by steam packet,
Selby to Micklefield by railway,
Micklefield to Knaresborough by stage coach.

The fares for this journey were ‘6s. 6d. outside and fore-cabin,’ and ‘10s. 6d. inside and best cabin.’ Certainly the traveller could not complain that he did not get plenty of variety for his money.

As an instance of the success of the new Railway in transporting ‘live stock’ may be given another extract from the _Hull Directory_:—

1842. December 9. A cow, which arrived here by the same steamer as the
Post Office bags, outstripped those bags, 14 hours in her arrival
at Manchester.

It is to be presumed that the cow travelled from Hull to Manchester by train, while the Post Office bags went by mail coach. But this is left to the imagination of the readers of the Directory.

In 1845 the Hull and Selby Railway was leased to the York and North Midland Company, a powerful company under the control of Mr. George Hudson, the ‘Railway King.’

* * * * *

This year and the next saw what was called the ‘Railway Mania,’ when promoters vied with one another in preparing schemes for new railways which people with money to invest were only too anxious to support. Two hundred and seventy-two Acts of Parliament authorizing new railways were obtained during the ‘boom;’ and when the ‘crash’ came, many lost the whole of the money they had so rashly invested.

The Hull and Bridlington Branch Railway was opened in 1846, and continued to Scarborough the following year. In 1847, also, the York and Market Weighton Branch Railway was opened; and the following year saw the opening of the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway ferry from Hull to New Holland. Hull and Withernsea were joined by the Hull and Holderness Railway in 1854.

Among the projected railways not carried out were the Hull and Market Weighton Railway, via Brough, and the Hull, South and West Junction Railway. One of the objectors to the former was the Vicar of South Cave, whose objection was that if there were a station at South Cave, ‘the scum of Hull would make it one place for their Sunday revels.’ His summary of the results of the introduction of railways was that—

The country youths go to some neighbouring town for a ‘lark,’ and
the tag-rag-and-bob-tail of towns come into the country, not for
sober enjoyment, but for Sunday dissipation.

Although this line of railway was not built, an alternative route from Hull to Market Weighton has long been provided. But the Hull, South and West Junction Railway, which was to cross the Humber by a tunnel at Hessle nearly forty years ago, remains as a project which will some day be successfully carried out.

ON THE ROAD IN 1912.
THE BEVERLEY AND BEEFORD MOTOR OMNIBUS.
]

XXV.
ENGLAND’S THIRD PORT.

THE MODERN GROWTH OF HULL.

We have seen in some of the foregoing chapters how the small town of Wyke, or Hull, was born early in the twelfth century, how it received a charter of privileges from King Edward I., and how it was afterwards fortified with walls and ditches that withstood successfully a couple of sieges during the Great Civil War. It remains to see how the small, insignificant ‘King’s Town upon Hull’ has grown into a city so important as to take rank after London and Liverpool as ‘England’s Third Port.’

Six hundred years ago Hull was much smaller than, and nothing like so important as, its neighbours, Beverley and Hedon. Yet to-day its inhabitants number twenty-one times those of Beverley, and two hundred and thirty-nine times those of Hedon. Why should this be?

The answer is that in the first place Hull owes its greatness to its position on the northern shore of the mighty Humber. When ships were small, they could pass up the river Hull to Beverley, and could reach Hedon by its Haven. But as ships grew in size this became no longer possible, and Beverley and Hedon were left behind in the race, while Hull, because of its deep water, went ahead. For it is situate at the only spot on the north bank of the Humber where there is water sufficiently deep to allow large ships to approach the shore.

But there is one remarkable thing about the growth of Hull. This has taken place almost entirely within the last two hundred years. For 450 years after its walls were built, its inhabitants lived within them. Not till nearly the close of the eighteenth century did their houses begin to stretch out beyond its walls. In 1812 the area of the town was about three times that within these walls. But in 1912 the city has extended its arms so far beyond them that there are along its main roads six tram routes, each measuring from one and three-quarters to two and a half miles, while the houses of its inhabitants extend still farther.

The rapid growth of Hull within the last hundred years may be seen also by comparing the numbers of its inhabitants in different years:—

In 1811 its inhabitants numbered 37,000
” 1841 ” ” ” 67,000
” 1871 ” ” ” 122,000
” 1901 ” ” ” 241,000
” 1911 ” ” ” 278,000

These figures show that during each period of thirty years from 1811 to 1901 the population almost doubled itself, and that the greatest actual increase was between the years 1871 and 1901.

And why this sudden growth? Because of the introduction and perfection of the railway and the steamship, which together have enabled merchants to reap full benefit from the great advantages that nature herself bestowed upon their city.

* * * * *

If you turn to the fourteenth-century plan given on page 165, you will see that trading ships are moored in the river Hull—the ‘Old Harbour,’ as we call it to-day—on the right bank of which are the cranes for removing their cargoes. For another four centuries the river continued to be the only place for the mooring of ships.

But when, by the revival of the whale-fishing industry in 1765, the amount of shipping greatly increased, need was felt for more accommodation. An Act of Parliament was therefore obtained in 1774 giving permission to ‘the Dock Company, of Kingston-upon-Hull,’ to make a dock extending from the river Hull to the Beverley Gate along the line of the town moat.[63]

Footnote 63:

The Hull Dock Company became extinct in 1893, when its property was
purchased by the North Eastern Railway Company.

The first stone of this dock was laid in the following year, amid scenes of great enthusiasm. Saluted with the firing of nine cannon and accompanied by ‘a large band of music, constables and flags,’ the Mayor and Corporation walked in procession to the _Cross Keys_, where they had, we read, ‘an excellent dinner.’ Nor did they forget their humbler townsfolk, for the workmen were given ‘fifteen guineas to drink.’

In 1778 the work of building the dock was finished, and Hull had the honour of possessing the first enclosed trading dock in Great Britain. It proved a great success, paying to its 120 shareholders good dividends out of the dues which were collected from the owners of vessels using it.

These varied from two pence per ton for a coasting vessel trading as far north as Holy Island or as far south as Yarmouth, to one shilling and ninepence per ton for vessels trading with Greenland, Africa and America—foreign vessels paying in all cases double dues.

THE DOCK measured nine acres in water area. In 1809 another dock was built, with an entrance direct from the Humber. This became known as the NEW DOCK, the corresponding adjective ‘Old’ being then applied to the earlier one. In 1829 a JUNCTION DOCK was built between the two. The line of the town moat was now entirely replaced with a line of docks.

In 1840 the railway came to Hull. The station was at that time in Kingston Street—on the site of the present Goods Station—and to give greater access to it for ships, the RAILWAY DOCK was built off the New Dock.

But the four docks that Hull then possessed proved quite incapable of dealing with the volume of trade to which they gave rise. So new ground was tapped, and in 1850 the VICTORIA DOCK, with a water area of 20 acres, was built. At the same time the names of the three old docks were changed, and became thenceforth the QUEEN’S DOCK, HUMBER DOCK, and PRINCE’S DOCK.

For nineteen years this provision was sufficient. Then there was opened the ALBERT DOCK, four acres larger than the Victoria Dock, and in 1880 and 1883 this was followed by the WILLIAM WRIGHT DOCK[64] and the ST. ANDREW’S DOCK.

Footnote 64:

The Albert Dock and the William Wright Dock are now combined into one,
known as the ALBERT AND WILLIAM WRIGHT DOCK.

All this building of new docks was intended to provide greater facilities for shipping, and as these were provided the volume of trade went on increasing. Meanwhile new shipping companies were formed to cope with the increase of trade.

* * * * *

Most famous of all the shipping companies is that known to us as ‘Thos. Wilson, Sons & Co., Limited,’ which was started by Mr. Thomas Wilson about the time of the opening of Junction Dock. ‘Beckinton, Wilson & Co.’—as the firm was then called—possessed one or two sailing ships and traded with Sweden in iron ore. ‘Thos. Wilson Sons & Co.’ possess a fleet of nearly one hundred steamships, and trade with all the chief ports of the world.

The history of the Wilson Line has been called a romance of the shipping world. Trade with Sweden was followed by the opening out of trade with Russia. When the building of the Suez Canal gave added importance to the Mediterranean, the Wilson Line began to trade with the ports of the Adriatic Sea, and later with Odessa and Constantinople. Next came trade with India, the _Orlando_, built at Hull in 1870, being the first steamship to arrive at Hull from India direct.

After this was laid the foundation of trade with New York. The success of the new venture seemed very doubtful at first, but the Wilson Line now carry more cargo to and from England and New York than the vessels of any other line of steamships. Together with all these new enterprises has gone the organisation of weekly services to the Belgian ports, and of fortnightly services to the ports of the Mediterranean Sea.

* * * * *

Early in this chapter it was stated that in the first place Hull owes its greatness to its geographical position. It is this position which has made it a great distributing centre for imported goods, and a great collecting centre for exported goods. The Port of Hull has thus become ‘the gateway for the world to the great manufacturing centres of Yorkshire, Lancashire, and the Midlands.’

Much of the transfer and despatch of goods is carried on over the side of the ocean-going steamships into or from the river-going lighters and keels, which are able to make use of two systems of inland waterways. One of these, the _Aire and Calder Navigation_, dates from the year 1698, and is the oldest as well as the most up-to-date waterway in Great Britain. The other system is known as the _Trent Navigation_.

The relative cheapness of transit by water makes these inland waterways of very great importance for all heavy traffic in which speed is not required. For fast traffic Hull is served by three railway systems, the North Eastern Railway, the Hull and Barnsley Railway, and the Great Central Railway; and other Companies have running powers over the lines of the North Eastern.

The coming of the first railway to Hull in 1840 was described in the preceding chapter. Five years after this event the merchants of Hull sought to establish a Hull and Barnsley Junction Railway; but the project fell through, and it was not till 1885 that the line now known as the Hull and Barnsley Railway was constructed.

With this new line was also constructed a new dock. This, the ALEXANDRA DOCK, is the deepest dock on the east coast of Great Britain, and has a water area of 53½ acres.

The opening of this huge dock gave a great impetus to the export trade in coal. In 1884 not more than 600,000 tons were exported, but in 1910 the quantity exported reached the enormous total of 5,000,000 tons.[65] Most of this went to North Russia, Germany, Holland, Sweden and South America.

Footnote 65:

It is expected that this amount will be greatly increased within the
next few years by the opening of new collieries around Doncaster, and
the tapping of a new ‘Eastern Coalfield,’ which is believed to extend
deep down under the Humber and the Wash, right out into the North Sea.

* * * * *

Let us take a walk round some of the Hull docks, and try to realise what the import and export trade really means.

Here, in the Alexandra Dock, is a huge iron steamship into which coal is being shipped by means of electric coal hoists or by transporter belts. Its cargo of 5,000 tons is being taken on board at the rate of ten tons a minute. From the hold of another equally large ship grain is pouring into lighters ranged alongside. It will require five working-days of ten hours each to discharge its cargo of 6,000 tons. Then the ship will take its place under the coal hoists, and its empty hold will be filled with an outgoing cargo of ‘black diamonds.’

The Victoria Dock is mainly given up to vessels unloading timber from the White Sea and the Baltic, a large proportion of it being ‘pit props’ for the coal mines of Yorkshire and Lancashire.

In the Albert and William Wright Dock, as well as in the Alexandra Dock, are vessels discharging hundreds of cases of bacon and hams from the United States, or of frozen carcasses of sheep from South America. From the hold of another vessel are being brought up crate after crate of eggs from North Russia, from another bale after bale of wool from Australia. Lined up alongside another big steamship are dozens of agricultural engines and machines made by workmen in Gainsborough and Lincoln. In a few weeks’ time they will be at work in the corn-fields of Russia.