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Chapter XIV: Plan for seeing the Town--Hotels

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The length of a traveller’s sojourn in Verona is generally a short one, and the outside of his visit is at the most from three to four days. The time is short for seeing and understanding the town, and the following plan is sketched out so as to include the principal sights and to lay before the passer-by as good an idea as can be had in a limited time of the chief centres of interest in Verona:--

(1) The Church of Sant’ Anastasia, beside which stands the famous
tomb of Guglielmo da Castelbarco (p. 160, etc.); along the Via
Liceo and down the Via Duomo to the Duomo; S. Giovanni in Fonte;
the Vescovado, and by by-ways to the Piazza delle Erbe (which can
never be seen too often) into the Piazza dei Signori, or Piazza
Dante, to the tombs of the Scaligers and the little Church of Sta.
Maria Antica (chapters vii. and viii.).

(2) Through the Piazza delle Erbe, down the Via Cappello and the
Via S. Sebastiano, etc., to the Church of S. Fermo. Then across the
Adige by the Ponte delle Navi to the Museo Civico, or Picture
Gallery (chapter ix.).

(3) By the Corso Cavour (see St Eufemia, Porta dei Borsari, and
Castel Vecchio on the way--chapter xi.) to the Church of S. Zeno
(chapter xii.), and from there to S. Bernardino, driving round
through the Porta Palio and Porta Nuova to the Arena (chapter ii.).

(4) Across the Ponte di Pietra to the chief churches on the other
side of the Adige, S. Giorgio in Braida; S. Stefano, Sta. Maria in
Organo; and, if time allows of it, a visit to the Giardino Giusti
(chapter x.).

A delightful expedition, occupying a good four hours, can be had by tram or carriage, to Soave, but a little walking is required to go right up to the Castle of the Scaligers, perched above the old walled-in town (chapter xiii.).

The best hotel in Verona is the Hôtel de Londres, also known as that of the Deux Tours. Part of the building is said to have once formed part of the Palace of the Scaligers, a statement that may well be the case, given its position and proximity to the house once inhabited by the lords of Verona. Here too is a good guide, one Illuminato Veronesi, who speaks English and knows his Verona well.

The Hôtel S. Lorenzo is pleasantly placed near the banks of the Adige. The Hôtel Colomba d’Oro stands in the Via Colomba, and is not far from the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and the Arena.

GENEALOGICAL TABLE OF THE SCALIGERS.

Mastino, d. 1277--Alberto I. m. Verde da Salizzori, d. 1301.
|
+--------------------------+---+--------------------+
| | |
Cangrande I. Bartolomeo I. Alboino I. m. (1) Catherine Visconti of
m. Joanna of Swabia, m. Constance of Swabia, | Milan.
dau. of Conrad of Antioch, dau. of Conrad of Antioch. | (2) Beatrice of Correggio,
Count of Alba and gd.-dau. | d. 1311.
of the Emperor Frederick II. |
+---------------------------------------------+------------------------+
| |
Mastino II. m. Taddea of Carrara, d. 1351. Alberto II. d. 1352.
|
+---------+------------+-----------------+-----------------+------------------------+
| | | | | |
Fregnano Verde Beatrice Paolo Alboino Cangrande II. Cansignorio
(natural m. Niccolò surnamed Regina, murdered by (murdered in 1359 by m. Agnes, dau. of
son) d’Este, m. Barnabò order of order of Cansignorio). Charles of Anjou,
lord of Visconti, lord Cansignorio. He married in 1350 duke of Durazzo,
Ferrara. of Milan. (Some Elizabeth dau. of Louis d. 1375, leaving
of Beatrice’s of Bavaria. After the only two illegitimate
descendants are death of her husband sons, Bartolomeo II.
to be found to Cansignorio had the and Antonio, the
this day in the audacity to offer her latter the last lord
families of the his hand wet with her of Verona, who
Earls of Darnley husband and his brother’s married in 1382
in England, and blood. She retired to Samaritana da
of the Counts of Germany where she Polenta, dau. of
Lützow in Austria eventually married the lord of Ravenna.
and Bohemia.) Ulrich of Wurtemberg.
|
+-----------------------------------------+-----+---------------+
| | |
(all illegitimate) Tebaldo m. to a dau. of the House of Savoy. Guglielmo. Fregnano.
|
+-------------+-----------+------------+-------------+------------+-+----------+
| | | | | | |
Nicodemo. Antonio. Niccolò. Paolo. Fregnano. Bartolomeo. Brunoro.
left only daughters, this last of the Scalas
and through the died at Vienna in 1434
female line his leaving no lawful issue.
descendants flourished
many years.

INDEX

A

“ACQUA MORTA,” 230.

ADALBERT, 48.

ADELAIDE OF BURGUNDY, 48.

ADELCHI, 44.

ADIGE, 1, 8, 10, 14, 17 _et seq._, 57, 94, 209, 229, 230, 257.

ADRIAN I., Pope, 44.

ÆMILIAN WAY, 9.

AGATHA, St, 156.

AGILULF, Duke of Turin, 17.

ALARIC, 11.

ALBOIN, 16, 175.

ALEARDI, Aleardo, 134, 255.

ALEXANDER III., Pope, 54.

---- IV., Pope, 60.

ALFONSO OF ARAGON, 139.

ALIGHIERI Chapel, 207.

---- Dante, _see_ Dante.

---- Francesco, 208.

ALPS, 229.

ALSUINDA, 17.

ALTICHIERO, 135, 136, 166, 187.

AMBROSE, St, 13.

AMEDEUS OF SAVOY, 40, 123.

AMPÈRE, _Voyage Dantesque_, 130.

AMPHITHEATRE, _see_ Arena.

ANDREA DEL SARTO, 210.

ANNONE, St, 156.

ANOLINO, 28.

APENNINES, 229.

AQUILEJA, 8, 11, 13.

---- Patriarch of, 13.

ARCHE DEGLI SCALIGERI, 198.

ARCO DE’ GAVI, 41, 127, 165, 208.

---- DE’ LEONI, 200.

ARCOLE, 120.

ARENA, 3, 9, 23 _et seq._, 263, 295, 298.

ARMANNI, VINCENZO, 226.

ARRIVABENE, 74.

ASHBURNHAM LIBRARY, 133.

ATTILA, 12.

AUGUSTOLO, 14

AUTARI, King of the Lombards, 17.

AVALOS, Inigo d’, 139.

AVANZO, Jacopo d’, 135, 136.

AVOGADRI, family, 54.

AZZO, Giovanni d’, 101.

B

BADILE, Antonio, 148, 149, 172, 213, 224.

---- Giovanni, 140.

BALESTRA, 233.

BARBARIANS, 3, 9, 11.

BARBARO, family, 68.

---- Zaccaria, 185.

BASSANO, 73, 87.

BATTISTA DEL MORO, 208.

BEAUHARNAIS, Eugène de, 121.

BELLINI, Gian, 145, 157.

---- Jacopo, 220.

BELLUNO, 59, 61, 68, 73, 87, 88, 90.

BENAGLIO, Francesco, 140.

---- Girolamo, 140, 220, 258.

BENEDICT XI., Pope, 90, 128.

BENEDICTINES, 203.

BERENGARIUS I., 29, 47, 175, 238.

---- II., 48.

BERENSON, Mr, 237.

BERGAMO, 90.

BERTRANDA, 154.

BESTIARII, 26.

BEVILACQUA, family, 277.

---- Guglielmo, 101.

BIADEGO, Cav. Giuseppe, 69, 72, 73.

BIANCARDO, Ugolotto, 104.

BIBLIOTECA CAPITOLARE, 132, 158, 159.

---- Comunale, 199.

BLONDEAU, 42.

BOCCACCIO, 73, 130.

BOLOGNA, 58.

BONACCOLSI, Passerino, 84.

BONACCORSO DEL PALÙ, 61.

BONIFAZIO, the Elder, 147, 213.

BONINO DA CAMPIGLIONE, 191.

BONSIGNORI, Francesco, 140, 144, 145, 166, 207, 213, 224.

BONVICINO, Alessandro di Brescia, “il Moretto,” 246.

BORDONI, Giulio Cesare, 134.

BORGHETTO, 291.

---- DI VALEGGIO, 115.

BORGHI, 263.

BOTANICAL GARDENS, 185.

BOURBON, House of, 118, 119.

BRANDENBURG, Knights of, 94, 172, 257.

---- Marquis of, 93.

BRENTA, 88.

BRENTANA, 233.

BRENZONI, family, 204.

BRERA, Gallery at Milan, 140, 143.

BRESCELLO, 16.

BRESCIA, 10, 57, 88, 90.

BRINTON, Selwyn, 136, 139, 146, 156, 207, 214, 275.

BRIOLETTO, 269.

BRUSASORCI, Domenico Riccio detto, 140, 147, 148, 157, 207, 219, 224, 233, 234, 237, 245, 246, 249, 250, 251, 257.

---- Felice, 148, 156, 159, 169, 246.

BRUSSELS, Treaty of, 110.

“BUFFALO BILL,” 42.

BUONCONVENTO, 81.

C

CACCIAGUIDA, 70, 129, 130.

CADORE, 90.

CÆSAR, Augustus, 23.

---- Julius, 24, 295.

---- Tiberius, 25.

CAGLIARI, Gabriel, 163.

---- P., _see_ Veronese, Paolo.

CALCEOLARI, Francesco, 208.

CAMBRAY, League of, 106.

CAMPAGNA, Girolamo, 187.

CAMUZZONI, Senator, 288.

CANNÆ, battle of, 4.

CANOSSA, Bishop Lodovico, 155.

---- Cardinal, Marquis, Bishop of Verona, 40.

CAPPELLETTI, family, 55.

CAPUA, 23.

CAPULET, family, 199, 249, 264.

CARCERI, Pulcinella della, 66.

CARLOTTI, Marchese, 118, 119.

CAROTO, Gian Francesco, 140, 145-147, 160, 165, 204, 213, 219, 221, 246, 249, 251, 258.

---- Giovanni, 146, 157.

CARRARA, House of, 102-104, 297.

---- Francesco da, 104, 105.

---- Giacomo da, 73, 77.

---- Jacopo da, 105.

---- Marsilio da, 88, 89.

---- Taddea da, wife of Mastino II. della Scala, 90, 169, 191.

CASA DEI MAZZANTI, 176.

---- Mercanti, 69, 176.

CASSIUS, or Catius Severus, 127.

CASTELBARCO, family, 69.

---- Guglielmo da, 73, 160, 169, 203, 204.

CASTEL D’ARCO, 68.

---- S. Felice, 242.

---- S. Pietro, 242.

---- Vecchio, 94, 257, 258, 299.

CATANIA, 156.

CATTANEO DANESE, 133, 164.

CATULLUS, 124, 187, 295.

CAVALLI, Alberto, 176.

---- family, 166.

---- Federigo, 166.

CAVALCANI-BANDI, 250.

CAVAZZOLA, Paolo Morando, detto, 140, 143, 144, 214, 220, 224, 233, 234.

CELTS, 2.

CENTRAGO, family, 165.

CHARLEMAGNE, 43, 44, 127.

CHARLES ALBERT, 122.

CHARLES, King of Bohemia, 90.

---- V., Emperor, 114, 147, 285.

---- VII., Emperor, 34.

---- Edward, the young Pretender, 159.

CHIARA, Sta., 259.

CHIOGGIA, 54, 88.

CHRISTIANS, 13.

CHURCHES--
St Anastasia, 108, 135, 160-170, 299.
S. Bernardino, 145, 258, 259, 300.
of the Cappucines, 264.
Duomo, 110, 150-156, 299.
St Elena, 159.
St Eufemia, 250, 251, 299.
S. Fermo Maggiore, 29, 73, 135, 145, 146, 170, 200, 299.
S. Fermo Minore, 195.
S. Giacomo, 222.
S. Giovanni in Foro, 251.
---- in Valle, 237, 238.
S. Giorgio in Braida, or Maggiore, 141, 245, 246, 300.
S. Lorenzo, 256.
Sta. Maria Antica, 83, 188, 299.
---- degli Angeli, 259.
---- Matricolare, 150, 157.
---- in Organo, 140, 230-237, 300.
---- della Scala, 73.
SS. Nazzaro e Celso, 222-224.
S. Paolo, 145.
---- di Campo Marte, 222.
S. Peter Martyr, 94, 171, 172.
S. Pietro in Cattedra, 159.
S. Procolo, 44.
S. Sebastiano, 200.
SS. Siro e Libera, 241.
S. Stefano, 242, 245, 300.
Sta. Teuteria, 255.
S. Thomas of Canterbury, 146, 224.
S. Trinità, 259.
S. Zeno Maggiore, 15, 19, 55, 61, 153, 157, 267-280, 300.
---- in Monte, 226.

CICERO, 124.

CIMA DA CONEGLIANO, 219.

CIMBRI, Invasion of, 2-4.

CIPOLLA, Carlo, 65, 70, 81, 83, 130, 241.

CIVIDALE, 73, 90.

CLAUDIUS II., 9.

CLEMENT VII., Pope, 147.

COLISEUM, 23, 27.

COLLE DI SAN PIETRO, 1, 15, 44, 241.

COLUMN, Venetian, in Piazza delle Erbe, 113, 175.

COMMUNES IN ITALY, 51 _et seq._, 62.

CONRAD, son of Emperor Frederick II., 61.

CONRADIN of Swabia, 66.

CONSIGLIO, Palazzo del, 133.

CONSTANCE, daughter of Conrad IV., 69.

---- daughter of Matteo Visconti, 70.

CONSTANTINE, Emperor, 9, 10.

CONVITO, 130.

COREGGIO, 230.

CORNELIUS NEPOS, 124, 187.

CORREGGIO, Azzone di, 93.

CORSO CAVOUR, 252.

---- Porta Borsari, 250, 251.

COZONE, Judge, 54.

CREMONA, 66.

CRISTIANI, Romeo, 172.

CRIVELLI, Carlo, 219.

CROWE and CAVALCASELLE, 136, 145, 147, 204, 219.

CUNIMUND, 16.

“CURIA,” 69.

CURTONI, 263.

CUSTOZZA, 39, 293.

D

DANDOLO, Francesco, 89.

DANTE, 40, 55, 61, 62, 70, 72, 77, 78, 82, 83, 128-131, 159, 178, 186, 230, 263, 264, 297.

DECIUS, 8.

DELLA TORRE, 172.

---- family, 207.

---- Girolamo, 207.

DESIDERIA, 43.

DESIDERIUS, King, 43.

DIOCLETIAN, 13, 27.

DIVINE COMEDY, 130, 279.

DOMINICANS, 160, 226.

DRESDEN, 144, 146.

DUSSAIMI, family, 171.

E

EGNA, Enrico d’, 289.

ELIZABETH of Austria, wife of Cangrande II. della Scala, 93.

ELMICHO, 16.

ENTRAGUES, Count d’, 116, 118.

“EPISTOLA,” 128, 129.

ERBE, _see_ “Piazza.”

ERMELINDA, wife of Duke Lupone, 230.

ERMENGARDA, 154.

ESTE, 68, 88.

---- Azzo VI., 55.

---- Azzo d’, 261.

---- Bonifazio d’, 56.

---- Leonello d’, 139.

---- Marquis of, 58.

---- Obizzo d’, 69.

ETRUSCANS, 2, 23.

EUDONIUS, 14.

EUGANEANS, 2.

EUPREPIO, St, 12.

EZZELINO DA ROMANO, 230, 291.

F

FALCONETTO, Giovanni Maria, 108, 148, 156, 157, 159, 172, 224.

FAMAGOSTA, fortress of, 114.

FARINATO, Paolo, 148, 149, 157, 209, 222, 224, 225, 233, 245.

FAZIO DEGLI UBERTI, 78.

FELTRE, 59, 61, 68, 73, 87, 88, 90.

FERDINAND CHARLES, Duke, 283.

FERRARA, 57.

FERRETO OF VIGENZA, 73, 83.

FIDENA, 25.

FLAMBERT, 47.

FLAMINIAN WAY, 9.

FLAVIANS, 8.

FLORENCE, 88, 145, 147.

FRACASTORO, Aventino, 187, 200.

---- Girolamo, 133.

FRANCIA (Raibolini, Francesco), 213.

FRANCIS I., of France, 110, 114.

---- I., Emperor, 37.

FRANCIS, St, 259.

FRANCISCANS, 203, 258, 259.

FRANKFORT, 145, 146.

FRANKS IN NORTH ITALY, 43.

FREDERICK BARBAROSSA, 52, 230.

---- II., Emperor, 57, 59.

FREDERICK OF AUSTRIA, 67.

FREGOSO, family, 163.

FRIOLA, 60.

FRISINGEN, Otto von, 52.

G

GALLA PLACIDIA, 245.

GALLATTI, 42.

GALLIENUS, Emperor, 7, 9, 271.

GALVANI, 30.

GARDA, lake of, 9, 131, 136, 209.

GARIBALDO, Duke of Bavaria 17.

GAROFALO, 213.

GATTAMELATA, 106, 147.

GAULS, 2, 3.

GAVI, family, 41, 188.

GAZZATA, Sagacio Mazio, 74, 83.

GAZZOLA, family, 115.

“GENEROSO,” 27.

GENTILE DA FABRIANO, 136.

GEORGE, St, 192.

GERMANY, 7, 8, 11, 14, 16, 51, 94.

GHIARRADDADA, battle of, 107.

GHIBELLINES IN VERONA, 55, 56, 58, 60, 80.

GHIRLANDAJO, 145.

GIAMBATTISTA DA VERONA, 155.

GIARDINO GIUSTI, 225, 226, 300.

GILBERT, Duke of Verona, 17.

GIOCONDO, Fra, 133, 160, 187, 249.

GIOLFINO, Niccolò, 148, 169, 213, 221, 233, 237, 245, 252, 258.

---- Paolo, 148.

GIORGIONE (Giorgio Barbarelli), 146, 147.

GIOTTO, 74, 83, 135, 166, 172, 186, 204.

GIOVANNI, Fra, da Schio, 57, 58.

---- da Verona, 234.

GIROLAMO DAI LIBRI, 140, 143, 144, 165, 176, 213, 219, 222, 224, 246.

GIULIO ROMANO, 155, 176.

GIUSTI, family, 279.

GONZAGA, House of, 88, 93, 114, 144.

---- Cecilia, 139.

---- Galeazzo, 292.

---- Gian Francesco, 139, 293.

GOTHIC RULE IN VERONA, 14, 15.

GOTHS, 16.

GRADENIGO, Giuseppe, 118.

GREEKS IN VERONA, 15.

GREGORY VII., Pope, 51.

GROTTO OF S. NAZZARO, 223.

GUARINO DE’ GUARINI, 133.

GUELPHS IN VERONA, 54, 55, 58, 65, 80.

GUERCINO, 233.

GUIDO DI CASTEL DI REGGIO, 77.

---- Duke of Spoleto, 47.

GUINICELLO DE’ PRINCIPI, 171.

GUSMAN, Daniele, 203, 204.

H

HAWKWOOD, John, 101.

HENRY IV., of France (his armour in Venice), 118, 119.

---- of France, 283.

---- Emperor, 51.

---- VII., Emperor, 81.

HOTELS, 300.

HUGH, Duke of Provence, 48.

HUNGARIANS, 13.

HUNS, 12.

HUMBERT OF SAVOY, 40, 123.

I

ILLASI, 8, 280, 297.

---- Counts of, 282, 286.

INFERNO, 130, 131, 263.

INNSBRUCK, 8.

ISOTTA DEGLI ATTI, 139.

J

JOHN, Archduke of Austria, 37.

JOSEPH II., Emperor, 34.

JULIET, 71, 199, 264.

L

LALLEMENT, M., 116, 118.

LAMBERTI, Tower of, 176, 177.

LANZI, 147.

LAS CASAS, Chevalier de, 116.

LAUTREC, General, 110.

LAVAGNOLI, family, 169, 250.

LAYARD, Sir A. Henry, 149, 204, 220, 233, 259, 272.

LE CHIUSE DI SUSA, 43.

LEGNANO, 54, 122.

LENDINARA, Cosimo da, 66.

LEO, St, 12.

LEONARDO DA VINCI, 146.

LIBERA, Sta., 241.

LIBERALE DA VERONA, 140, 143-148, 156, 160, 165, 166, 176, 207, 219, 220.

LIBRARY OF ST BERNARDINO, 259.

“LIBRO D’ORO” (of Venice), 118, 119.

“LILLE, Comte de,” in Verona, 114-120.

LION OF ST MARK, 110.

LIVY, 229.

LOMBARD LEAGUE, 53, 57.

LOMBARDS or Longobards, 16, 17, 43.

LOMBARD-VENETO Kingdom, 121.

LOMBARDY, 59, 84.

LONGINUS, 17.

LOUIS OF BAVARIA, 74, 82.

---- FRANCE, 44.

---- XI., Emperor, 128.

---- XVIII., _see_ “Lille, Comte de.”

---- St, 192.

LOUVRE, 275.

LUCCA, 23, 78, 88, 90.

LUCILLO, St, 12.

LUCIUS III., Pope, 160.

LUINI, 145.

LUNEVILLE, peace of, 121.

LUNGADIGE PANVINIO, 250.

LUPONE, Duke, 230.

M

MACER, Æmilius, 124.

MAFFEI, Marchese Scipione, 12, 41, 133, 134, 187, 266.

MALASPINA, 30, 31.

---- SPINETTA, 78.

MALATESTA, Sigismondo Pandolfo, 139.

MALDURA GALLERY, at Padua, 145.

MANTEGNA, Andrea, 143, 145, 148, 164, 230, 255, 275.

MANTUA, 57, 58, 67, 68, 114, 122, 144, 145, 288, 291.

“MARANI,” faction of, 108.

MARCHIORI, Lodovico, 280.

MARIA, Sta. Consolatrice, 156.

MARIONI, family, 68.

MARTIN, St, 192.

MARTINI, 209.

MARTINO DA VERONA, 221.

MARZAGAIA, 132.

MASACCIO, 145.

MASSIMIANUS, 27.

MATILDA, Countess of Tuscany, 51.

MATTEO DA ORGIANO, 132.

MAXENTIUS, 9.

MAXIMILIAN I., Emperor, 107, 108, 110.

MICHELE DA VERONA, 147.

MINISCALCHI, family, 169.

MILAN, 9, 13, 61, 101.

MILO, Count of Verona, 48.

MINCIO, 291.

MOCENIGO, Alvise, 116.

MOCETTO, Girolamo, 237.

MODENA, 11, 57, 88, 145, 146.

MONGA, Cav. Andrea, 238.

MONKHOUSE, Cosmo, 144.

MONSELICE, 73.

MONTAGNA, Bartolomeo, 223.

MONTAGUE, 59.

MONTE OLIVETO, Monks of, 230, 234, 259.

MONTECCHI, family, 55, 59, 263, 264.

MONTORIO, 282.

MORANDO, _see_ Cavazzola.

MORDINO, M., 118.

MORELLI, 136, 145, 147, 148, 208.

MORO, Antonio, 213.

MORONE, Domenico, detto “Pelacani,” 140, 259.

MORONE, Francesco, 140, 145, 146, 156, 165, 166, 219, 220, 233, 234, 258.

MOSCARDO, 133.

“MULETTA, la,” 233.

MUNICIPAL GALLERY, or “Museo Civico,” 137, 139, 143, 145.

“MURAGLIONI,” 18, 230.

MUSELLI, 133.

MUSEO LAPIDARIO, 176, 265.

MUSSATO, Albertino, 73, 77, 83.

N

NAPOLEON I., the Great, 35-37, 115, 120, 121, 155, 275.

NAPOLEON III., Emperor, 38, 122.

NARSES, 16.

NASSAU, Prince of, 115.

NATIONAL GALLERY OF LONDON, 140, 143, 144, 145, 146.

NEUDECK, George of, Bishop of Trent, 108.

NICCOLÒ DA VERONA, 159.

NICHOLAS III., Pope, 282, 297.

NICOLAUS, 268.

NIEBUHR, 159.

NOGAROLA, Antonio, 67, 190.

---- Bailardino, 82.

---- Castle of, 280, 294.

---- family, 30, 31, 69.

NOVARA, battle of, 122.

O

ODOACER, 14.

OGNIBENE, Bishop, 54, 160.

OLIBRIUS, Emperor, 245.

OLIVER, 44, 154.

ORBETTO, 207.

ORDELAFFI, Guglielmo degli, 101.

ORFANOTROFIO, Garden of, 264.

ORIOLO, Giovanni, 140.

OSSA, Guglielmo dell’, 178.

OSTIGLIA, 33, 82, 288.

OTHO I., Emperor, 48, 267, 287.

---- II., Emperor, 48.

OTTOLINI, 133.

OVID, 124.

P

PADUA, 8, 57, 59, 61, 69, 73, 87-89, 101, 146, 229.

PALACES--
Barbarani, 224.
della Banca Nazionale, 255.
Bevilacqua, 256.
Canossa, 257.
Carlotti, 255.
Del Consiglio, 187.
Gazzola, 115, 264.
Giusti, 225.
della Gran Guardia Vecchia, 263.
of the Judges, 188.
Miniscalchi, 160.
Pompei, 209.
Portalupi, 257.
Pozzoni, 255.
della Ragione, 178.
Ridolfi, 147.
of the Scaligers, 300.
Trezza (once Maffei), 176.
Tribunalizio, 181, 188.

PALÆOLOGUS, Johannes, 139.

PALLADIO, Valerius, 176.

“PALLIO” RACE, 130, 261.

“PALLONE,” game of, 37.

PANTEO, Giovanni Antonio, 133.

PANVINIO, Onofrio, 41, 133.

PAQUARA, Peace of, 57.

PÂQUES Véronaises, les, 175, 181.

PARADISO, 70, 74, 84, 128, 129, 130.

PARMA, 57, 68, 88, 90.

PASTRENGO, Guglielmo da, 131, 132.

“PATARANI,” or Patarins, 30, 296.

PAUL, the Deacon, 17.

PAVIA, 67, 150.

PELLEGRINI CHAPEL, 258.

---- family, 133, 166.

---- Margherita, 258.

PEPIN I., 43.

---- II., 44, 175, 267.

PERINO OF MILAN, 191.

PEREZ, Counts of, 285.

PERUGINO, 209, 213.

PESCHIERA, 122.

PETER, St, 12, 26.

PETRARCH, 74, 77, 131, 158, 230.

PHILHARMONIC THEATRE, 265.

PHILIP THE YOUNGER, 8.

PHILIPPI, battle of, 7.

PIACENZA, 66.

PIAZZA--
S.S. Apostoli, 255.
Brà, or Vittorio Emanuele, 34, 265.
delle Erbe, 98, 172-176, 299.
Indipendenza, 198.
S. Micheletto, 255.
dei Signori, or Dante, 178, 299.

PICCI, Giuseppe, 80.

PICTURE GALLERY, 209-221, 299.

PIEDMONT KINGDOM, 122.

PIEDMONTESE FORCES IN ITALY, 117, 122.

PIER DELLA VIGNA, 61.

PIGOZZI, 67.

PINDEMONTE, House Of, 133.

---- Marchese, 42.

---- Florio, 165.

---- Ippolito, 134.

PISA, 78.

PISANELLO, Vittore, 204, 213, 220.

PIUS VI., Pope, 34.

PLINY, the Elder, 7, 127.

---- the Younger, 26, 127, 187.

POLA, 23.

POLENTA, Ostasio da, 101.

---- Samaritana da, 31-33, 101, 132.

POMPEI, Count Antonio, 287.

---- family, 282.

---- countess Ginevra, 285.

POMPEIUS STRABO, 7.

POMPONIUS SECUNDUS, 127.

PONTE--
Aleardi, 259.
delle Navi, 94, 97, 114, 209, 220, 299.
della Pietra, 242, 249.
Rofiolo, 38, 265.

PORTA--
dei Borsari, 8, 252, 299.
Bombardieri, 185.
Sta. Croce, 263.
S. Giorgio, 113.
Nuova, 39, 113, 299.
Palio, 113, 299.
Vescovo, 113.
S. Zeno, 113.

PORTO, LUIGI DI, 264.

PORTONE BRÀ, 265.

PREFETTURA, 186.

PROCOLO, St, 28.

PROVENCE, Comte de, _see_ Louis XVIII.

---- Comtesse Marie Josephine, 116.

PURGATORIO, 79, 80, 264, 279.

POZZUOLI, 23.

Q

QUERINI, Alvise, 117.

---- Giovanni, 130.

QUINTO, Leonardo da, 132, 171.

QUIRINUS, St, 192.

R

RAINER, Archduke, 121.

RATHOLD, Bishop, 150, 267.

RAVENNA, 13, 14, 17.

---- Archbishop of, 60.

REGGIO, 57, 68.

RHETIANS, 2.

RICCIO, Andrea, of Padua, 207.

---- or Rizzo Antonio, 187.

RIDOLFI, 169.

RISTORI, Adelaide, 38.

RIVA, 68.

RIVOLE, 120.

ROLAND, 44, 154.

ROMANO, Ezzelino da, 59-63, 73.

---- family, 58.

ROME, 4, 9, 12.

ROMEO, 71, 198, 264.

ROSAMUND, 16.

ROSSETTI, Cardinal, 226.

ROSSI, Alessandro, 163.

---- Ernesto, 38.

---- Giambattista, 163.

---- Pietro de’, 89.

RUDOLPH, Duke of Burgundy, 47, 48.

RURICIUS POMPEIANUS, 10, 11.

RUSKIN, John, 8, 87, 97, 150, 171, 195, 226, 281.

RUSTICO, St, 13, 27, 29, 209.

S

SACCO, Contessa di, 214.

SADOWA, 123.

SAIBANTE, Marchese Giovanni, 133.

ST CYR, Hugues de, 128.

SALERNO, family, 169.

---- Giovanni, 169.

SAMBONIFACIO, Riccardo da, 291.

SAN BONIFACIO, family, 55, 59, 61, 263.

---- Lodovico da, 66.

---- Sauro di, 54.

SANGUINETTO, 282, 294.

SAN MARTINO, 122.

---- Tower of, 291.

SAN MICHELI, Michele, 113, 155, 160, 185, 209, 224, 230, 242, 250, 256, 259.

SANUDO, 109.

SARAINA, Torello, 71, 133, 208.

SARDINIA, King of, 115.

SARDIS, Council of, 12.

SAVERIO, L. S., _see_ Louis XVIII.

“SAVII,” 118.

SCALA or Scaliger, House of, 162, 178, 230, 257, 282, 287, 295-297.

---- Albertino della, 176.

---- Alberto I. della, 30, 67-70, 129, 160, 190, 279, 294.

---- ---- II., della, 83, 87-91.

---- Alboino della, 69, 71, 72-74, 81, 83, 129, 130.

---- Antonio della, 30, 32-98, 101, 105-132, 166.

---- Bartolomeo I. della, 69, 71, 83, 129, 294.

---- ---- II. della, 30, 98.

---- ---- Bishop della, 90, 191.

---- Bocca della, 67.

---- Brunoro della, 105, 106, 114.

---- Can Francesco della (son of Antonio), 102-104.

---- Cangrande I., 69, 70, 72-87, 128-130, 134, 135, 170, 186, 189, 190, 195, 242.

---- Cangrande II., 93, 94, 172, 257, 292, 293.

---- Cansignorio, 30, 93, 94, 97, 175, 176, 181, 185, 190, 192, 198.

---- Caterina, B. Regina, wife of Barnabò Visconti, lord of Milan, 90, 93.

---- Constance, 69.

---- Fregnano, son of Mastino II., 93, 94.

---- Fregnano, son of Cangrande II., 94.

---- Giovanni, 192, 195-197.

---- Giuseppe, son of Alberto I., 279.

---- Jacopino, 62.

---- Mastino I., 30, 62, 65-68, 84, 185, 190, 297.

---- Mastino II., 83, 87-91, 93, 169, 190, 197-198, 275, 294.

---- Paolo Alboino, 93, 94, 98.

---- Pietro, Bishop, 160.

---- Tebaldo, 94.

SCALIGERO, _see_ Bordoni.

SCAPINI, Don Pietro, 256.

SCARAMELLI, 67.

SCARTAZZINI, 79, 80, 263.

SCHLOSSER, Jules von, 135.

SCORNAZANO, Vanne, 77.

SELVAGGIA, daughter of the Emperor Frederick II., 61.

SEMINARIO VESCOVILE, 224.

SEREGO, Cortesia, 101, 166.

“SERRAGLIO,” 292.

SFORZA, Francesco, 106.

SHAKESPEARE, 55, 59, 71, 230, 264.

SIGISMUND, Emperor, 106.

---- St, 192.

---- da Stefano, 249.

“SIGNORI,” 52, 62.

SIMON, St, and St Jude, 238.

SIRO, S., 241.

SIRMIONE, 124, 282, 294.

SISMONDI, 57.

SOAVE, 280, 286-288, 300.

SOLFERINO, 122, 293.

SOMMA CAMPAGNA, Gidino da, 132.

SONCINO, 61.

SORDELLO, 128.

SPAGNOLO, Don Antonio, 159.

SPAIN, 110.

SPAZZI, 274.

SQUARCIONE, 220.

STAGNOLO, family, 224.

STEFANO, S., 15.

SUETONIUS, 25.

SYMONDS, J. A., 59.

T

TACITUS, 7, 25.

“TEATRO ANTICO,” 238-241.

TEAREN, Gertrude of, 280.

---- Henry of, 280.

TEIAS, 16.

TEUTON INVASION, 4.

THEATRE, Roman, 3.

THEODOLINDA, Queen, 17.

THEODORIC, King, 14, 15, 29, 229, 241, 242, 268.

THEODOSIUS, Emperor, 176.

THEOPHANIA, Empress, 48.

TINTORETTO, 249.

TITIAN, 154, 209, 230.

TOMBS of Castelbarco, 169-171, 299.

---- of the Scaligers, 188-198, 299.

TORBIDO, Francesco, 140, 144, 146, 155, 160, 208, 224, 233.

TORCELLO, 245.

“TORRE DEL GARDELLO,” 176.

TOTILA, 15, 16.

TRAJAN, Emperor, 25.

TREGNANO, 282.

TRENT, 61, 66.

TRENTINO, 68.

TREVISANI, 133.

TREVISO, 57, 59, 73, 82, 88.

TRIBUNE in Piazza delle Erbe, 176.

“TUFO,” 223, 257, 262, 272.

TURONE, 219.

TURRISENDO, 54.

---- dei Turrisendi, 66.

U

UGUCCIONE DELLA FAGGIUOLA, 78, 83, 186.

URBAN III., Pope, 160.

---- VI., Pope, 102.

V

VALEGGIO, 282, 293.

VALENTIN, St, 192.

VALPANTENA, 40.

VALPOLICELLA, 4, 40.

VASARI, 140, 146, 164, 234.

VENICE, 54, 57, 72, 88, 101-103, 115, 150, 229, 297.

VENETIA, 10.

VERITÀ, family, 250, 279.

VERME, Giacomo del, 101.

---- Jacopo del, 105, 294.

VERNON, Hon. William Warren, 19, 26, 79.

VERONA: Origin and growth, 1;
fortifications, 52;
founders, 2;
subject to Rome, 3;
invaded by Teutons and Cimbri, 4;
Roman influence, 7;
constituted a Roman colony, 7;
important geographical position, 8;
part played by Verona in Roman wars, 8;
besieged by Constantine, 9;
invaded by Alaric, 11;
by Attila, 12;
Christianity in Verona, 12;
invaded by Odoacer, 14;
Theodoric at Verona, 14;
Verona possessed by the Greeks, 16;
Alboin and the Longobards in Verona, 16;
inundations in Verona, 18;
end of the Lombard rule, 43;
Carlovingians in Verona, 44;
Berengarius I., Duke of Friuli, in Verona, 47;
intercourse with Germany, 48-51;
sides with the Emperor Henry IV. against the Pope, 51;
takes part in the Crusades, 51;
joins the Lombard League, 53;
Guelph faction in Verona, 54, 55;
civil strife in the town, 56, 59;
Verona under the Scaligers, 62-102;
Verona under the Visconti, 103;
under the Carraresi, 105;
under the Venetian Republic, 106;
effect of the League of Cambray on Verona, 106, 107;
Imperial rule in Verona, 108, 109;
pestilence in Verona, 110;
Verona restored to Venice, 110-114;
plague and inundation in Verona, 114;
the “Comte de Lille” in Verona, 114-120;
insurrection against the French, known as “Les Pâques Véronaises” in Verona, 120, 121;
Verona handed over to Austria, 121;
half of it to France, then again to Austria, 121;
War of Independence, 122;
Austrian rule re-established, 122;
Verona restored to Italy, 123;
kingdom newly formed, 123;
Verona the home of letters, 124;
endowed with a University, 127;
men of letters in Verona, 128-134;
school of painting in Verona, 134-149;
churches, picture gallery, sights in and around Verona, 150-300.

VERONESE, Paolo Cagliari, detto Il, 147-149, 213, 222, 230, 246.

“VERONETTA,” 222, 249.

VESCOVADO, 159, 160, 299.

VESPASIAN, Flavius, 8.

VIA Gallica, 7.

---- Postumia, 8.

---- Cappello, 119, 299.

---- Cappelletta, 249.

---- Colomba, 300.

---- Corso Cavour, 257, 299.

---- Duomo, 299.

---- Giardino Giusti, 225, 230.

---- La Costa, 188.

---- Leone, 200.

---- Liceo, 299.

---- Mazzanti, 188.

---- Pallone, 38, 265.

---- Pigna, 160.

---- Ponte Pietra, 249.

---- Rosa, 188.

---- Della Stella, 208.

---- S. Sebastian, 299.

---- Stradone di S. Bernardino, 258.

---- Venti Settembre, 222.

VICENZA, 8, 57, 59, 61, 68, 69, 73, 87, 88, 90, 93, 103.

VICTOR EMMANUEL II., King, 38-40, 122, 123, 265.

VIENNA, 143.

---- Peace of, 123.

VIGASIO, 54, 292.

VIGILIO, S., 136.

VILLAFRANCA, 282, 288.

---- Peace of, 39, 122.

VILLANI, Giovanni, 59, 73, 87, 93.

VILLEMS, Pietro, 128.

VIRGIL, 124, 229.

VISCONTI, House of, 88, 90, 102.

---- Barnabò, 93.

---- Carlo, 102.

---- Catherine, 104.

---- Filippo Maria, 108, 139.

---- Gian Galeazzo, 102, 292, 293.

---- Matteo, 83.

VISIGOTHS, 11.

VITELLIANS, 8.

VITELLIUS, 8.

VITRUVIUS CERDONE, 41, 127, 187.

VIVARINI, Alvise, 145.

“Volto Barbaro,” 67, 134, 188.

---- “Marioni,” 68.

W

WENCESLAUS, King of the Romans, 101.

WILIGELMUS, 268.

WURMSER, General, 120.

Z

ZANNONI, Ugo, 178, 255.

ZAVOLDO, 233.

ZELOTI, Giambattista, 160.

ZENO, or ZENONE, St, 12, 13, 276, 300.

ZEVIO, Stefano da, 139, 166, 219, 238, 250.

PRINTED BY
TURNBULL AND SPEARS,
EDINBURGH

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Ruskin, _Verona and other Lectures_. Allen (1894).

[2] Gibbon, _The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire_. London, Murray, 1887, vol. ii., ch. xiv., p. 129.

[3] See chapter x.

[4] Benvenuti de Rambaldis de Imola, Comentum Super Dantis Aldighierij Comoediam. Tr. by the Hon. William Warren Vernon: _Readings on the Purgatorio_. London, Macmillan, 1897.

[5] “In an amphitheatre, ‘podium’ was the name for a railed basement which ran like a high enclosure round the whole circumference of the arena.” See Mollett, J. W., _An illustrated Dictionary of Words used in Art and Archæology_. London, Sampson Low, 1883.

[6] The extravagance in which Samaritana indulged contributed in no small degree to the decline and fall of her husband’s house. Her taste for jewellery was of a most ridiculous--not to say vulgar order. She heaped on jewels in profusion and would not put on her stockings unless they too were decorated with precious stones! She also excited the indignation of contemporary chroniclers by her insistance in sending to Ostiglia for some special unguents which she deemed necessary for beautifying her hair, and which were conveyed to this port on the Po at great expense from distant towns.

[7] Zagata.

[8] Belviglieri, _Verona e Provincia_, p. 341.

[9] It may be well to remind the reader that this arch which was taken down in 1805 stood originally near Castel Vecchio, and was the work of the famous architect Vitruvius Cerdone, whose name was engraved on the archway. The inscriptions formerly existing over the niches show that the statues belonging to them were of the Gavii family. Panvinio is of opinion that the arch was erected to the memory of that Gavius who was consul B.C. 145. Maffei on the other hand says that it was set up to the memory of the whole of the Gavii family.

[10] C. Cipolla, _Compendio della Storia Politica di Verona._ Verona, 1899.

[11] _Histoire des Républiques Italiennes_, Sismonde de Sismondi, Bruxelles, 1838, vol. i., ch. xv., p. 507.

[12] Alexander IV. issued letters for this crusade in 1255. It was preached next year by the Archbishop of Ravenna.

[13] J. A. Symonds, _Age of the Despots_. London, Smith, Elder & Co., 1898, ch. iii., p. 83, &c.

[14]

“Tenne ambo le chiavi
Del cuor di Federigo.”--_Inf._ xiii. 58-59.

[15] “Tiranni Che diér nel Sangue e nell’ aver di piglio.”--_Inf._ xii. 104-105

[16] I am aware that I am destroying a legend that has found its way into nearly every guide-book and even into some histories of Verona by this assertion. But no Veronese of any culture or learning supports the popular tradition, or admits that the deed aroused such horror in the public mind as to brand the spot with a special name. The “Volto Barbaro” simply took its name from the Barbaro family who lived there, as the “Volto Marioni” in another part of the town did from the Marioni family--a fact that no one versed in Veronese matters would ever seek to gainsay or dispute.

[17] Giuseppe Biadego, _Dante e gli Scaligeri_, Venezia, 1899.

[18] _See_ Cipolla, _op. cit._ p. 208.

[19]

“Thine earliest refuge and thine earliest inn
Shall be the mighty Lombard’s courtesy,
Who on the ladder bears the holy bird,
Who such benign regard shall have for thee
That ’twixt you twain, in doing and in asking,
That shall be first which is with others last.
With him shalt thou see one who at his birth
Has by this star of strength been so impressed,
That notable shall his achievements be.”
_Paradiso_, canto xvii., 76, &c.
(Longfellow’s Translation).

[20] Giuseppe Biadego, _op. cit._, p. 12.

[21] _Op. cit._, p. 13.

[22] Boccaccio, Giornata I., Novella VII.

[23] Gio. Villani, _Istorie fiorentine_, lib. x., cap. 139.

[24] I have taken this translation from the Notes on the _Paradiso_, given in Longfellow’s translation of the _Divine Comedy_ (London, 1877). From there, too, have I taken the extract from Petrarch, which is to be found in Balbo’s _Life of Dante_, translated by Mrs Bunbury, ii. 207.

[25]

Ch’io veggio certamente, e perŏ il narro,
A darne tempo, gia stelle propinque,
Sicure d’ogni intoppo e d’ogni sbarro;
Nel quale un cinquecento diece e cinque,
Messo di Dio, ancideră la fuja
Conquel gigante che con lei delinque.

[26] Vernon, Hon. William Warren, _Readings on the Purgatorio of Dante_. London, Macmillan, 1889, vol. ii., p. 429, &c.

[27] _Rithmi de obitu Henrici VII._, _ed. Freher_, _Germanie-rerum Scriptores_, i. 15, etc.

[28] Cipolla, C, _Storia delle Signorie italiani dal 1313 al 1350_. Milano, 1881, lib. i. iv.

[29] I have not gone into the lengthy and vexed question of the date of Cangrande’s birth. The year generally accepted is 1291, and that I have followed as the most probable one, and the one most deserving of acceptance.

[30] Cipolla, _op. cit. lib._ i. iv.

[31] _Verona and other Lectures._ Allen, Orpington, 1894.

[32] This is not the place to enlarge on the fine character and qualities of Regina della Scala; but it is interesting to note that one of the most famous theatres in Italy takes its name from her, and that the “Scala” at Milan was so called in honour of this daughter of Verona.

[33] _Op. cit._ p. 17.

[34] See pp. 30-31.

[35] P. Sgulmero.

[36] Published anonymously in 1799 by Cristoforo Tentori.

[37] Selwyn Brinton, _The Renaissance in Italian Art_, Part II., p. 37. Simpkin, London, 1898.

[38] _Op. cit._ p. 38, etc.

[39] _Op. cit._ p. 42.

[40] Handbook of Painting. The Italian schools--based on the handbook of Kugler--thoroughly revised and in part rewritten by Sir A. Henry Layard, London. Murray, 1887. Part I. p. 274.

[41] _The Stones of Venice._ John Ruskin, London. Smith, Elder & Co., 1858. Vol. i., Appendix 8, p. 361.

[42]

The artificer Nicholas who carved these things,
The folk who here collect will praise for aye.

[43] _Op. cit._ p. 59.

[44] Since the above was written it has now (April 1902) been replaced above the chapel; but so high up as to be seen with difficulty.

[45] Ruskin, _Stories of Venice_, vol. i. Appendix 19.

[46] In this courtyard much might be done were the Town Council of Verona only as ready to lay out sums in guarding and preserving their old treasures as they are in erecting modern houses and “embellishments” to attract visitors to their city. Some fine arches dating from the time of the Scaligers remain here blocked up; and some lovely frescoes which ask only to be protected from sun and rain cry aloud in this Cortile for an attention which is persistently denied them.

[47] Ruskin, _Stones of Venice_, _op. cit._ vol. iii. p. 70, etc.

[48] The tablet runs as follows:--

Queste furono le case
Dei Capuleti
Onde uscì la Giulietta
Per cui
Tanto piansero i cuori gentili
E i poeti cantarono.

These were the houses
Of the Capulets
From whence sprang Juliet
For whom
So many gentle hearts have wept
And poets have sung.

[49] _Op. cit._ Part 1. p. 268.

[50] _Op. cit._ p. 59.

[51] _Op. cit._ p. 64.

[52] _Op. cit._ Part I. p. 264.

[53] Ruskin, _Verona and other Lectures_. Allen, 1894.

[54] _Op. cit._ p. 264.

[55] Selwyn Brinton, _op. cit._ p. 58, etc.

[56] _Spaventi-Guida di Verona_, p. 132.

[57] The authorship of this picture is open to doubt. It has been attributed to different masters in turn. Mr Berenson is of opinion that it is by Girolamo Mocetto, an opinion also held by Crowe and Cavalcaselle.

[58] C. Cipolla, _Compendio della Storia Politica di Verona_. Verona 1899. pp. 46 and 44.

[59] Layard, _op. cit._ p. 268.

[60] Layard, _op. cit._ p. 263.

[61]

... “and seemed to be of those
Who at Verona run for the green mantle
Across the plain; and seemed to be among them
The one who wins, and not the one who loses.”
--(Longfellow’s Translation.)

[62] Readings on the _Inferno_ of Dante, Hon. William Warren Vernon (London: Macmillan, 1894), vol. i. p. 532, etc.

[63] Layard, _op. cit._ Part I. p. 253.

[64] Selwyn Brinton, _op. cit._ p. 53.

[65] In chapter vi.

[66] _Purgatorio_, xviii. 124.

[67] _La Divina Commedia_, col commento di Jacopo della Lana, Bologna, 1866, 3 vols. 8vo.

[68] Hic reqviescit Heinricus de Tearen se maritus Gertrvdis.

[69] Ruskin, _op. cit._ vol. ii. ch. vii. p. 248.

* * * * *

Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

where held=> were held {pg 13}

altri è piu tardo=> altri è più tardo {pg 71}

piu=> più {pg 80}

ftom Italy=> from Italy {pg 82}

returning to Verono=> returning to Verona {pg 102}

Ghiaraddada=> Ghiarraddada {pg 107}

Ghirlandjo=> Ghirlandajo {pg 145}

Charlemange=> Charlemagne {pg 306}

de’ Turrisendi, 66.=> dei Turrisendi, 66. {pg 313}

Piazza Bra=> Piazza Brà {pg 238}

Independenza=> Indipendenza {pg 198}

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The Story of VeronaChapter XIV: Plan for seeing the Town--Hotels

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