Chapter I: Front Matter

THE STORY TELLER OF THE DESERT--BACKSHEESH!

or, Life and Adventures in the Orient

By Thomas W. Knox

With Descriptive And Humorous Sketches Of Sights And Scenes Over The Atlantic, Down The Danube, Through The Crimea J In Turkey, Greece, Asia-Minor, Syria, Palestine, And Egypt; Up The Nile, In Nubia, And Equatorial Africa, Etc., Etc.

Embellished with nearly Two Hundred and Fifty Illustrations, including Forty-Eight full page Engravings, principally executed in London, Paris, and New York, from Photographs and original Sketches.

With fine Steel-Plate Portrait of the Author.

Author of “Camp-Fire and Cotton Field,”

“Overland through Asia,”

“Underground,” etc.

Hartford, Conn.

A. D. Worthington & Co., Publishers

1885

AUTHOR’S PREFACE.

The following pages are the result of a peaceful crusade to the East, undertaken for purposes of pleasure and profit. The author has endeavored to combine the humorous features of the journey with the store of useful knowledge that should be the result of a tour through the Orient. He trusts that he has so combined them that both will be satisfactory, and that the reader will be amused while seeking instruction and instructed while seeking amusement.

There is a story of an honest old Quaker resident of Philadelphia, who sent his son to make the tour of Europe. The young man determined to see all that could be seen, and gave his whole mind to the search for enjoyment. When he returned from his travels his father said:

“John, thou hast been absent a twelvemonth and past, and thou hast drawn on me for eighteen thousand dollars. John, that is a great deal of money for thee to spend in one year.”

“I know it, father,” was the young man’s response, “but I have had lots of fun for that money.”

In return for the labor and fatigue incident to Oriental travel, the author believes that he found an ample reward in the entertainment and information which the journey afforded.

The author is glad to avail himself of this opportunity to express the gratification he feels at seeing his book so profusely and artistically illustrated. In this department of the work the publishers have displayed their enterprise and liberality in such a creditable manner, as to justly entitle them, not only to the author’s grateful acknowledgments, but to the hearty thanks of all who may read his book.

He would also return his thanks to the artists and engravers, who have so skilfully designed and executed the illustrations, many of which were drawn and engraved in London and Paris, expressly for this volume.

Finally he would thank most cordially the many gentlemen in the various countries he visited who gave him the benefit of their personal experience and observation. Their names are too numerous to be included in this preface, and their nationalities comprise nearly all the civilized countries of the globe. T. W. K.

Principally designed, or reproduced from photographs, by Karl Giradet, Faguet, Frank Beard, James C. Beard, Arthur Lumley, L. Hopkins, and eminent artists, and mostly engraved by Messrs. Holier, Pannemaker, Laptante, Gusmand, Gauchard, and other noted engravers of Paris; by W. J. Palmer, and the London Illustration Company, of London; and by Charles Speigle, of New York.

ILLUSTRATIONS

Page.

1. Steel-Plate Portrait of the Author.............Frontispiece

2. The Story-Teller of the Desert.........To face Frontispiece

3. Head Piece................................................v

4. Head Piece...............................................ix

5. Tail Piece.............................................xxxi

6. Head Piece..............................................032

7. Steamer Day.............................................034

8. The Judge’s First Day at Sea............................035

9. The Judge’s Second Day at Sea...........................036

10. The Race...............................................039

11. The Judge..............................................040

12. A Practical Joke.......................................044

13. Head Piece.............................................048

14. Fraternizing...........................................050

15. Eternal Friendship.....................................051

16. Proof of the Affray....................................052

17. Avenging an Insult.....................................054

18. “I must have a Duel”...................................055

19. An Imperial Wine Cellar................................060

20. Head Piece.............................................063

21. “Salt by Yer”..........................................068

22. The Snoring Match......................................069

23. The Doubter............................................071

24. A Turkish “Hamal”......................................072

25. Tail Piece.............................................077

26. Head Piece.............................................078

27. Among the Fleas........................................079

28. A Toilet in Public.....................................082

29. “Natives of the Country”...............................085

30. Precautionary Measures.................................086

31. “She is a Jewess”......................................089

32. The Palace Tshiragan...................................091

33. Head Piece.............................................093

34. Shirking the Cemetery..................................097

35. “Fresh Paint”..........................................100

36. Driving a Bargain......................................104

37. A Night at Baidar......................................106

38. Caught in the Act......................................108

39. Tail Piece.............................................109

40. Head Piece.............................................110

41. Putting in his “Best Licks”............................112

42. “Backsheesh”...........................................113

43. An Impressive Scene....................................116

44. Constantinople from the Tower of Golata--Full.........116

45. Head Piece.............................................123

46. A Street in Constantinople.............................124

47. Strategy...............................................126

48. The Reconnoitre........................................129

49. The Retreat............................................130

50. A Damas-cussed Dog.....................................131

51. Stowing the Sandwiches.................................132

52. Admiring the Mosque....................................132

53. A Sudden Attack........................................132

54. The Pursuit............................................133

55. A Hopeless Chase.......................................133

56. “Retrospection”........................................134

57. Tail Piece.............................................135

58. Headpiece..............................................135

59. A Sedan Chair..........................................136

60. A Turkish Beauty.......................................137

61. An Importunate Moslem..................................143

62. Extorting “Backsheesh”.................................144

63. Head Piece.............................................145

64. End of the Fast and Beginning of the Feast............146

65. “Good-Bye, my Friend, Good-Bye”........................148

66. A Turkish “Cavass”.....................................149

67. Head Piece.............................................153

68. Moslems at Prayer......................................154

69. “Bismillah”...........................................155

70. The “Duplicate”........................................157

71. Muezzin announcing the Hour of Prayer..................158

72. An Oriental Boot Jack..................................160

73. Fartha, or Opening Chapter of the Koran................163

74. Tail Piece.............................................165

75. Head Piece.............................................166

76. A Whirling Dervish.....................................170

77. Effect of too much Whirling............................171

78. Howling as a Profession................................173

79. Homopathic Treatment...................................175

80. Head Piece.............................................177

81. Some of the Brothers of Far-Away Moses.................178

82. Interviewing a Purser..................................184

83. Head Piece.............................................187

84. Head Piece.............................................197

85. View of Athens and the Acropolis.......................199

86. The Decline of Greece..................................201

87. Greek Priest of Modern Times...........................204

88. “Doing” the Ruins......................................206

89. Tail Piece............................................212

90. Head Piece.............................................213

91. Sending Up the Ear of a Victim.........................217

92. Head Piece............................................225

93. Pickling the “Doubter”.................................229

94. “Backsheesh!” “Backsheesh!”............................231

95. Head Piece.............................................236

96. Inspecting the Crew....................................241

97. Bad “Backsheesh.”--“It was Counterfeit”................243

98. St. Jean D’Acre--Full Paye.............................249

99. A Tricky Beast.........................................254

100. Beyrout and the Mountains of Lebanon--Full Page.......257

101. “Mou Dieu! Is this the Party for Damascus?”...........262

102. Head Piece............................................264

103. The Cedars of Lebanon--Full Page......................265

104. Cedar of Lebanon......................................270

105. Great Stone at Baalbek................................272

106. Portal of the Temple of the Sun at Baalbek............275

107. Court of a House in Damascus..........................279

108. Moslem Women Weeping at a Tomb........................282

109. Syrian Jew with Phylactery............................285

110. A Money Changer in the Bazaar.........................288

111. Flat Roofed Houses--Damascus..........................291

112. Abd-el-Kader..........................................293

113. We “Strip to ze buff”.................................296

114. “You will have all ze luxuries”.......................296

115. We Enter “Ze Bain Beautiful”..........................297

116. One of the Luxuries...................................297

117. Softening the Asperities..............................298

118. A Not One.............................................298

119. “What is Curlew?”.....................................305

120. A Bedouin Encampment..................................308

121. A Bedouin of the Desert...............................309

122. The Terror of the Desert on his Arabian Charger.......311

123. Enins of Palmyra--Full Page...........................315

124. Hebron--Full Page.....................................319

125. Mount Carmel--Full Page...............................323

126. An Inhabited Boot,....................................325

127. Ploughing in Syria,...................................332

128. All that remains of Capernaum,........................334

129. “Backsheesh! O Howadji!”..............................335

130. The Sea of Tibenas--Full Page.........................337

131. Magdala,..............................................339

132. Unhorsing the “Doubter,”..............................342

133. Nazareth--Full Page...................................345

134. Jeivs of Nazareth--Full Page..........................349

135. A Syrian Water Bearer,................................353

136. Jerusalem and Surrounding Country--Full Page..........359

137. Sidon--Full Page......................................365

138. Tyre,.................................................368

139. Tail Piece,...........................................369

140. Jaffa--Full Page......................................371

141. Our Dragoman, Ali Soloman,...........................374

141. “Backsheesh,”.........................................376

143. Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives--Full Page.........377

144. Ancient Arch; Portion of the Haram Wall,..............380

145. A Street in Jerusalem,...............................381

146. Arched Street and Fountain, Jerusalem,................382

147. Jdrindpal Street of Jerusalem--Full Page..............383

148. The Golden Gate, Jerusalem,..........................386

149. Interior of the Golden Gate,..........................387

150. Site of the Temple, Jerusalem,........................388

151. Ancient Signet Ring,..................................389

152. Ancient Signet Ring,..................................389

153. Exploring the Substructions,..........................390

*154. Underground--Beneath the City of Jerusalem............391

*155. The Valley of Jehoshapliat,...........................393

156. Wailing Place of the Jews, Jerusalem,.................394

157. Walls of the Church of the Presentation--Full Page....395

158. Bethlehem--Full Page.................................399

159. Chinch of the Nativity, Bethlehem--Full Page..........405

160. Monastery of Mar Saba--Full Page......................409

161. A Formidable Escort,..................................414

162. Bathing Place of the Pilgrims on the Jordan...........417

163. The “Doubter’s” Mishap,...............................420

164. The Mount of Olives--Full Page........................423

165. Pool of Hezekiah,.....................................426

166. West Door, Church of the Holy Sepulchre...............427

167. Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Full Page...............429

*168. The Fountain of the Virgin,...........................431

169. Doubter’--Sixpence,”..................................436

170. Jaffa Orange Seller,..................................438

171. Tail Piece,...........................................439

172. Water Bearers at the Railway Station, Cairo,..........447

173. Praying in the Streets of Cairo,......................448

174. Cairo--Full Page......................................449

175. Massacre of the Mamalukes--Full Page..................455

176. Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt,.......................458

177. A Tough One,..........................................459

178. Head Piece............................................468

179. Tombs of the Sultans--Cairo--Full Page................469

*180. “O Ye Thirsty,”.......................................470

181. Children Bread Sellers in the Streets of Cairo,......473

182. Mosque of the Sultan Hassan, at Cairo--Full Page......475

183. Young Street Arabs of Cairo,..........................477

184. Shoe Peddler in the Bazaar,...........................479

185. Latticed Windows--Cairo,..............................480

186. An Auctioneer in the Bazaars,.........................485

187. A Syce,..............................................489

188. Donkey Drivers of Cairo--Full Page....................491

189. Not up to the Dodge,..................................494

190. An Egyptian Eunuch,...................................496

*191. An Arab School--Full Page.............................503

192. Ceremony of the Doseh,................................510

193. A Shadoof for Drawing Water from the Nile............515

194. Climbing the Pyramid,.................................518

195. The Ascent of the Judge,..............................520

*196. An Arab Feat,........................................

197. The Sphinx and the Great Pyramid of Gizeh.............523

198. A Nile Boat...........................................530

199. The Serapeum--Memphis--Full Page......................537

200. Landing Place at Beni-Soef--Full Page................545

*201. Sugar Cane Seller at Minieh,.........................550

202. An Inconvenient Position,.............................552

203. Siout--Upper Egypt--Full Page.........................555

204. “Nargeeleh,”..........................................557

205. Siout Egg Merchant,...................................558

206. Egyptian Gamblers,....................................559

207. “Aoz, Eh?”............................................663

208. “Dusting” for “Backsheesh,”...........................566

209. An Egyptian Ghawazee,.................................569

*210. Ghawazee and Musicians,...............................570

211. An Egyptian Musician,.................................574

212. Egyptian Water Carriers Filling their Jars............575

213. Ruins of the Temple of Denderah, Upper Egypt..........579

214. Entrance to the Temple of Luxor.......................587

215. The Memnonlum and the Ruined Statue...................593

216. Sitting Colossi,......................................595

217. A Fresh One...........................................599

218. Interior of a Harem...................................601

219. A Murderous Assault,..................................607

220. A Nubian Belle,.......................................609

221. A Nubian Lady.........................................610

222. An Egyptian Sakfdeh, Drawing Water from the Nile......611

*213. All Affectionate Beast................................614

214. Luxuries of Camel Riding..............................615

225. Egyptian God Osiris...................................617

226. Egyptian Goddess Isis.................................618

227. Island of Phike, or Sacred Island--Full Page..........619

218. Sacred Lotus of the Egyptians--Full Page..............627

219. Modern Egyptian Gristmill.............................630

230. A Nubian Warrior......................................632

231. Papyrus of the Egyptians--Full Page...................633

231. Biting the Dust.......................................641

233. Women of Cairo--Full Page.............................655

234. Bread Seller in the Streets of Cairo..................659

235. A Lady of the Harem...................................662

236. An Egyptian Barber....................................665

237. Alexandria--Full Page.................................671

238. Court of a House in Egypt,............................673

239. A Bedouin Encampment near Cairo,......................675

240. The Madonna Tree,.....................................676

241. Boot Blacks of Cairo,.................................679

242. Mosque of Sultan Berkook, and Fountain of Ismail......682

243. Modern Egyptian Oven,.................................683

244. Palace of the Viceroy, near Alexandria--Full Page.....689

CHAP I--STEAMER LIFE ON THE ATLANTIC.

Leaving Home--Our Pilgrimage Begun--Sights and Scenes on Deck--“Life on the Ocean Wave”--Out at Sea--The Traveller’s Little World--Feeling Queer Inside!--Delights of Sea-Sickness--Reminiscences of a Jolly Old Boy--What Became of the Judge--Bringing up his Liver!--Too Big for his Berth--Sleeping in a Second-Hand Coffin--A Race with a Lemon--The Leg of Mutton Dance--Eccentric Conduct of a Boiled Turkey--Too Much Sauce!--“Dressing” the Judge’s Trowsers--Alone at Sea--A Funny Conspiracy--Fate of a Timid Man--Confidence Betrayed--The Young Man from the Country--His Wisdom and his Woes--Drinking Petroleum--The Judge Turns Joker--Who Owns the Ocean Steamers.........033

CHAP II--SCENES IN VIENNA.--DOWN THE DANUBE.

On English Ground--The Road to the East--Life in the Austrian Capital--Fun and Festivity--Visit to the Big Beer-Garden--Effects of Champagne--Animated Conversation--How Twenty Thousand Dollars were Spent--The Man with the Torn Vest--Headaches at a Discount--Yankees in a Row--A Pugnacious Russian--“Quits,” but not Satisfied--Challenging an American--The Fashionable World--Down the Danube--Scenes on the River--I low Austrian Cigars are Made--An Imperial Tobacco Dealer--The Rattle of Wagram--Castle of l’resburg--We Enter Hungary--An Evening in a Wine Cellar--Want of a Little Soap--Night Scene on the Danube,..........048

CHAP III--LIFE AMONG THE MAGYARS.

A City of Renown--Overwhelmed by the Moods--Lying in Clover--What I Saw in the Hungarian Capital--“The Poor Folks’ Bath”--Rather Warm Quarters--Life Among the Magyars--The “Miffs” of an Imperial Couple--Her Majesty’s Choice--A Model Captain--Charles Matthews and the Row-cry Roy--Facts and Fancies of a Snoring Match--The “Judge” and the “Doubter”--The Man who Wouldn’t Relieve--Who were the “Hamals,” and What They Did--People in Strange Garments--Raggy Breeches versus glop--The Fortress of Belgrade--Servin, and What I Saw of Its People-- The Assassination of Prince Milochi--Rather Bad for Poetry,..........063

CHAP IV--NEARING THE ORIENT.--“BACKSHEESH!”

Among the Fleas--The Mystery of the Redclothes--A Cool Explanation-- Under the Spray--What Became of the Dragon--A Queer Story about Flics--What Is an “Araba?”--Conversation without Words--Changing Shirts in Public--The Iron Gate--Scene at the Custom-House--Official Obstinacy--The “Sick Man”--Scenes in the Orient--The Mysteries of the Quarantine--How we Dodged the Turks--The Turk and his Rosary--Pity the Poor Israelite!--Why an Unlucky Jewess was Whipped--The Secret of the Turkish Loan--How the Money is Spent--Ten Million Dollars Gone!--What is “Backsheesh?”..........078

CHAP V--THROUGH THE CRIMEA.--IN AND AROUND SEVASTOPOL.

A Visit to the Crimea--The Porter with the Big Books--The Danger of Siberia--Our Entry into Sevastopol--Terrible Reminiscences of the Crimean War--How we Shirked the Cemetery--The Great Dock Yard of Sevastopol--We Visit a Remarkable Gunboat--What we Saw Below-Deck--The Story that our landlord Told--An Enterprising Tartar--The “Doubter” Offers an Opinion--How the “Judge” Stole a Newspaper--Adventures by the Way--The “Doubter” gets into Trouble--We Fly to the Rescue--Eccentricities of a Selfish Man--We Rise and Depart,..........093

CHAP VI--ACROSS THE BLACK SEA.

A Visit to a Russian Police Office--Smith, and What he Did--A Bad Lot of Passports--A Race after a Governor in a Drosky---More “Backsheesh”--Delicate Administration of a Bribe--An Obliging Subordinate--Attempt at a Swindle--Scraping an Acquaintance--High Life on the Black Sea--Muscovite Ladies--Sunrise on the Euxine--Worshipping the Sun--Stamboul--Passing Quarantine--On the Bosphorus--A Magnificent Spectacle--The Castle of Europe--Palaces and Villas--Domes and Minarets--The Golden Horn--In Front of Constantinople--Rapacity of Boatmen--Turkish Thieves--Streets of the City,..........110

CHAP VII--CONSTANTINOPLE.--THE CITY OF DOGS.

Human Camels--Canine Colors--The Dogs of Istamboul--Their Appearance and Moral Character--How the Turks Regard Them--“Inshallah”--Constantinopolitan Dogsologies--An Oriental Dog-Fight--Sagacious Brutes--Cultivating Canine Society--“Standing Treat” among the Curs--Four-Footed Campaigns--Dog-Districts--The Hostile Armies--A Brilliant Strategic Move---Charge of the Light (Dog) Brigade--Advance of the Chef de garbage--The “Army of the West” in Retreat--The “Doubter’s” Misha--Full Details of a Coat’s Detailing--An Israelite in whom there _was_ Guile--No More Sandwiches for Me, Sir-r-r,..........123

CHAP VIII--TURKISH CURIOSITY SHOPS.--SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE BAZAARS.

Locomotion in Constantinople--Horses, Donkeys, Shanks’ Mare and Sedan Chairs--Turkish Street Cars--Women in Public--The Veiled Queens of Seraglios--The Drugs of the Orient--Henna and its Uses--Ottar of Roses, Musk and Bergamot--Shawls and Silks of Price--The Treasures of Ormus and of Ind--The Workers in Precious Metals--Vases of Gold and Platters of Silver--An Aureole of Gems--Loot for Soldiers and Swag for Burglars--The Weapons of Ancient Islam--Blades of Damascus and Swords of Mecca--A Wonderful Collection--Old Clothes and New Truck--A Seedy Moslem Swindler--An Exorbitant “Backsheesh”--What Happened to the Judge--A Dispenser of Justice in the Lockup,.........135

CHAP IX--LIFE IN THE HAREM.--MYSTERIES OF THE SERAGLIO.

The Great Moslem Fast--Nights of Feasting and Days of Fasting--The Injunction of Mahomet--The Ravenous Mussulman--An Hotel Swindle--A Stranger and they Took Him In--“Too Thin, Too Thin”--Greek Wine--Going Out in a Blaze of Glory--Thunder, Smoke, and Flame--The Approach of the Sultan--How he Looked--A Peep at the Ladies of the Harem--The Veiled Queens--The Sultan’s Mother--The Empress Eugenie at the Seraglio--Insult Offered to Eugenie--A Queen in Tears--A Question of Court Etiquette--Murdering Christians,..........145

CHAP X--THE MOSQUES.--FAITH AND SUPERSTITIONS OF THE MUSSULMANS.

Among the Mosques--Their Special Uses--Greek Burglars, their Capture and Execution--A “Firman,” What Is It--A Turkish Dragoman--A Relic of Ancient Byzantium--Its Name and Origin--Taking a Portrait--Turkish Superstitions--Worshipping in St. Sophia--Moslem Fanatics--Counting The Minarets--What Came of a Wet Pair of Boots--The Judge in a Tight Place--The “Doubter” Commits Sacrilege--Uncovering a Sarcophagus--Attacked by the Priests--Barefooted Worshippers--Teachings of the Koran--Cleanliness and Temperance--Why Turkish Women Do Not Go to the Mosques--Why Good Mussulmans Never Get Drunk,..........153

CHAP XI--WHIRLING AND HOWLING DERVISHES.--WHO AND WHAT THEY ARE.

The Dervishes of Constantinople, What Are They?--How they Live and What they Do--Unclean and Devout Beggars--Where they Bury their Dead--Opening their Circus--Removing the “Doubter’s” Boots--An Amusing Situation--Clearing the Floor--Human Top-Spinning--Dropping into Jelly-Bags--A Pliable Lot of Living Corpses--The Howling Dervishes--Where and How they Live--A House Full of Madmen--A Shrieking Chant--“La Hah il Allah”--Stirring Up the Wild Beasts--Spectators Joining in the Chorus--Horrible Superstitious Rites--Treading on Sick Children--Reaching Paradise by Bodily Tortures--A Sad Disappointment--The Founder of the Sect, and who he Was--Pulling Teeth as a Proof of Sanctity,..........166

CHAP XII--GOOD-BYE, CONSTANTINOPLE!--ADVENTURES BY THE WAY.

Far-Away Moses, the Famous Guide--His Numerous Brothers--His Shop in the Great Bazaar--An Evening at the “Foreign Club”--Dreaming of Polyglots and the Tower of Babel--More “Backsheesh”--Passing the Custom House--How they Protect Home Manufactures--Standing Up for One’s Own Country--“Honesty ish te Besht Bolicy”--Borrowing Money at Twenty per Cent.--The Start from Constantinople--A Hint to Travellers--Sleeping in Public on the Stage--Interviewing the Purser--A Satisfactory Arrangement--Baron Bruck and his Career--Unwelcome Intruders--Classic Ground--One Trifling Peculiarity,.......***

CHAP XIII--SYRA, THE MARBLE ISLAND.--LIFE IN AN ATHENIAN HOTEL.

In sight of Syra--Active Trade in one Fish--A town all Built of Marble--The “Doubter” Expresses his Sentiments--Gustave’s Adventure--Walking on One’s Ear--“A little more beer, boy!”--The Pirates’ Retreat--Extraordinary Politeness in a Cafe--A lesson for American Barkeepers--In the Stamboul’s Cabin--“Blowing great guns”--A Tale of a Tub--Honey and Marble--Standing in the City of Demosthenes--The Battle of the Rival Hotels--Profanity in an Unknown Tongue--Out-generaling Inn-keepers--Tricks on Travellers--Useful Knowledge for Foreign Travel,..........187

CHAP XIV--ATHENS, ANCIENT AND MODERN.--SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE GRECIAN CAPITAL.

First Impressions of Athens--Opinion of the “Doubter”--“Not Worth Damming”--The Oldest Inhabitant of Athens--Celebrated Ruins--Reminiscences of Greek Grammar--A “Big Injun” on Greek--Drinking Beer on Sacred Soil--A Toper-graphical Survey--The Acropolis--What Is It?--The Temple of Jupiter Olympus--Seven Hundred Years in Building--A Young Englishman in a Scrape--Sunset from the Acropolis--Byron’s Glorious Lines--The Parthenon and its Surroundings--Foundations of the Ancient Citadel--Excavations of Antiquarians--Greek Art--An Important Discovery--The Line of Beauty,..........197

CHAP XV--ROUND ABOUT ATHENS.--THE COUNTRY OF THE BRIGANDS.

Mars’ Hill, the Place where St. Paul Preached on the Unknown God--The Prison of Socrates--The Country of the Brigands--Escorted by Greek Soldiers--Captures by the Brigands--How they Treat Captives--Extorting Ransoms--Buying Coins and Relics--Swindling Travellers--Among the Ruins--Strange Contrasts--“Chaffing” the Guide--Position of the Persian and Grecian Hosts--Xerxes’ Throne--“The King Sate on the Rocky Brow”--Making the Ascent by Proxy--“I No Go ze Mountain”--The Battle of Marathon--A Survivor of the Battle--How the Victory was Won,..........213

CHAP XVI--THE GLORY OF ATHENS.--ITS SIGHTS, SCENES, RUINS, AND RELICS.

The Opera at Athens--Handsome Greeks--The King and Queen--A Lovely Trio--Losing a Heart--Byron’s “Maid of Athens”--How She Looked--Her House and History--The Acropolis by Moonlight--Waking the Guard--A Sham Permit--“Backsheesh”--The Parthenon by Night--Greek Gypsies--Among the Curiosity Shops--Dr. Schliemann and his Trojan Discoveries--The Gold and Silver Vases of King Priam--Where they were Found--Relics of the Sack of Troy--Curious Workmanship--Some Account of the Excavations--We Leave Athens--A Queer Steamer--“Pay or Go to Prison”--End of Our Steamship Adventure,..........225

CHAP XVII--ADVENTURES IN QUARANTINE.--RHODES AND ITS MARVELS.

Missing our Steamer--A Serious Dilemma--A Study of Faces--Making a Row and What Came of It--Under the Yellow Flag--Adventures of a Quarantined Traveller--Escaping the Plague--_Mal-de-Mer_--A Laughable Incident--Getting on our Sea-Legs--Custom-House Troubles--The Potency of “Backsheesh”--Oriental Fashions in New York--“Doing” a Custom-House Inspector--A Curious Tradition--The “Lamb” as a Trade Mark--The Temple of Diana--One of the “Seven Wonders”--Singular Discoveries--A Horde of Scoundrels--The Island of Rhodes--The Colossus--A Wonderful City--The Knights of St. John--Their Exploits--Surrendering to the Turks,..........236

CHAP XVIII--SYRIA, THE LAND OF THE SUN.--DRAGOMEN, GUIDES, AND COURIERS.

A Rough Night on Shipboard--A Sea-Sick Turk--What he Said--Rum and Petroleum--Meditations on Turkish Hash--The Camel, his Tricks and Uses--A Knowing Brute--How he Shirks a Burden--George Smith, the Assyrian Savan--Beyrout--Its Antiquities and Wonders--Going on Shore--The Dragoman and his Office--Eastern Guides and their Character--Travelling on Horseback in Syria--The Road to Damascus--An Unexpected Trouble--Paying Fare by Weight--Disadvantages of a Heavy “Party”--A Trial of Wits--Waking up the Judge--Telling White Lies--The “Doubter’s” Predicament,..........252

CHAP XIX--THE GROVES OF LEBANON.--A NIGHT AMONG THE ARABS.

“The Sights” of Beyrout--Excursion to Dog River--An Obstinate Carriage-Owner--How he was “Euchred”--Moral of this Incident--Off for Damascus--Ascending Mt. Lebanon--An Arab Driver--Cultivating “Kalil”, our Jehu--The Cedars of Lebanon--A Grove as Old as Solomon’s Temple--A Wonderful Old City--The Temple of the Sun--Mystery of Tadmor--Cyclopean Masonry--Monstrous Monoliths--Their Dimensions--The “Doubter’s” Doubts and their Solution--Sleeping in an Arab House--What we Saw There--Divans as Couches--A Dangerous Valley--The Robber’s Haunt,..........264

CHAP XX--DAMASCUS.--THE GARDEN CITY OF THE EAST.

Dimitri and his Hotel--Court-Yards and Fountain--How People Live in Damascus--Parlors, Bed-Rooms and Boudoirs--A Bet and its Decision--The “Doubter and his Donkey”--The Street called “Straight”--Bab-Shurky--Spots Famous in History--Shaking Hands across a Street--Scene of St. raid’s Conversion--The Window of Escape--Tombs of Mohammed’s Wives--The “Doubter” Figuring on Probabilities--An Unexpected Upset--Visiting the Leper’s Hospital--A Frightful Spectacle--The Great Mosque--View from the Minaret--The Bazaars and Curiosity Shops--Making a Trade--A Case of Fraud,..........278

CHAP XXI--SYRIAN LIFE.--DEALERS IN HUMAN FLESH.--WE TRY “ZE LUXURIES OF ZE BATH.”

In the Slave-Market--A Dealer in Human Flesh--A Stealthy Trade--Examining Female Slaves--Serfdom in Syria--Inside Views of a Syrian Household--Jewish Houses--An Oriental Song--Smoking with the Ladies--Syrian Customs--A Famous Arab Chief--Visiting Abd-el-Kader’s House--The City of the Caliphs--Taking a Bath--Mohammed and his Trowsers--A New Species of Cushion--The Bath-House--Disrobing--Securing our Valuables--Muslem Honesty--Sitting Down in a Hot Place--Gustave’s Misadventure--Undergoing a Shampoo--Rubbed to a Jelly--The Couch of Repose--A Delicious Sensation--“All ze Luxuries,”..........290

CHAP XXII--TRAVELLING IN A CARAVAN.--SIGHTS ON THE WAY.

Turning our Faces Eastward--The Land of the Sun--Palmyra, Bagdad, and Babylon--The Desert in Summer and Winter--A Dangerous Road--The Robbers of the Wilderness--Ruins in the Desert--A City of Wonders--The Haunts of the Bedouins--Engaging an Escort--The Start for Palmyra--On a Dromedary’s Back--The Environs of Damascus--A Bed on the Sand--“Every One to his Taste”--A Knavish Governor--Winking at Robbery--In the Desert--On the great Caravan Track--Caravansaries, What Are they?--The High Road to India--An Arab Fountain,..........300

CHAP XXIII--TENT-LIFE AMONG THE BEDOUINS--THE WARRIORS OF THE DESERT.

Among the Bedouins--A Genuine Son of the Desert--High-Toned Robbers--A Sample of Bedouin Hospitality--Etiquette in an Arab Encampment--A Case of Insult--Tent-Life and its Freedom--A Nation of Cavalry-Warriors--Bedouin Dress, Manners and Customs--Their Horses and Weapons--A Singular Custom--A Caricature Steed and his Rider--Arab Scare-Crows--On the Road to Palmyra--A Mountain of Ruins--The Grand Colonnade--The Temple of the Sun--A Building Half a Mile in Circumference--An Earthquake, and What It Did--The City of the Caliphs,..........307

CHAP XXIV--ADVENTURES IN THE MOUNTAINS OF SYRIA.

“Doing” Syria--The “Short” and the “Long” Route--How to Choose Them--Engaging a Dragoman--Farewell to Damascus--Preying on Travellers--The Wonderful Rivers of Syria--Crossing the Desert--A Picture of Desolation--Scene of St. Paul’s Conversion--A Striking Contrast--Ancient Ruins and Modern Hovels--A Night with the Bedouins--A Hard Road to Travel--A Glorious View--The “Doubter’s” Mischance--The Lizard in the Boot--A Ludicrous Scene--Gustave’s New Joke--Mollifying a Native--The Massacre at Hasbeiya--Treachery of a Turkish Colonel--Scene of Christ’s Labors--In the Holy Land,..........318

CHAP XXV.--“FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA”--JOURNEYING THROUGH THE HOLY LAND.

Our First Morning in Palestine--Breaking Camp at Banias--“From Dan to Beersheba”--Explanation of the Phrase--The Cup of the Hills--The Golden Calf of Jeroboam--Story of Vishnu and his Idol--An Incident and its Moral--The Battle-fields of Joshua--A Singular Species of Plough--The “Doubter” in a Quandary--Joseph’s Pit--The Sea of Galilee--Fishing with Poisoned Bait--Capernaum and its Ruins--Scene of Christ’s Miracles--The Birthplace of Mary Magdalen--A Horde of Beggars--A Pitiful Spectacle--The Robber’s Cave--Herod and his Strategy--The Jews of Tiberias--A Seedy Crowd--Ruins of the Ancient City--The Spot where Christ Fed the Multitude,..........329

CHAP XXVI--IN THE HEART OF PALESTINE.

Bathing in the Sea of Galilee--Standing on Holy Ground--How the “Doubter” was Unhorsed--A Second Absalom--Lunching on the Summit of Tabor--Saracenic Vengeance--A Reminiscence of the Crusades--A Magnificent Sight--Discussing “Backsheesh” with the Natives--The “Doubter” as a Cashier--The Grotto of the Holy Family--Mary’s House--The House of Loretto--The Story of the Miracle--The Monk and the “Doubter”--Dean Stanley’s Explanation--Joseph’s Tool Chest--The “Doubter’s” Demand--The Witch of Endor “At Home”--Blood-Revenge--A Pertinacious Feud--Saul and the Witch,..........341

CHAP XXVII--THE LAND OF THE PHILISTINES.--SAMARIA AND ITS PEOPLE.

The City of Nain--“Spoiling the Egyptians”--Ruins of an old Philistine City--Curious Strategy--The Torches in Pitchers--Kleber and the Turks--Ahab’s Palace--Tropical Picture--A Crusader’s Church--More “Backsheesh”--The Samaritans of To-day--The Mount of Blessings and the Mount of Cursings--A Despised People--A Strange Religious Belief--A Parchment Thirty-five Centuries Old--Jacob’s Well--Its Present Appearance--The Tomb of Joseph--The Scene of Jacob’s Dream--The Philistines’ Raid,..........355

CHAP XXVIII--FROM DAMASCUS TO JAFFA.--INCIDENTS OF THE TRIP.

Once More in Damascus--Taking the “Short Route”--Starting for Bcyrout--The Fountains of Damascus--Rain-Storm in the Anti-Lebanon--Stora and its Model Hotel--Poetical Fancies--A Compliment to Mine Host--The “Doubter” as a Rhymist--Climbing Mount Lebanon--Tropic Suns and Arctic Snows--View from the Summit--A Vision of Fairy-Land--Coming Down on the Double-Quick--In Sight of the Mediterranean--Taking Ship for Jaffa--Sidon to a Modern Tourist--Tyre--Jaffa--A Dangerous Roadstead,..........362

CHAP XXIX--ENGAGING A DRAGOMAN.--OUR START FOR JERUSALEM.

Views of Jaffa--A Queer-Looking City--The Oldest Inhabited Town in the World--The Massacre of Jaffa--A Stain upon the Memory of Napoleon--A Contract with a Dragoman--A Close Margin--The Value of Credentials An Honest Arab--Getting into Saddle--An American Colony--Their German Successors--The Fruits of the Country--Generous Conduct of the “Doubter”--On the Road to Jerusalem--A Night at Ramleh--In a Russian Convent--The Gauntlet of Beggars--The Pest of the Road--Begging as a Fine Art--The “Gate of the Glen”--Among the Mountain Passes--In Sight of the Holy City,..........370

CHAP XXX--THE LIONS OF JERUSALEM.--THE TEMPLE, THE SEPULCHRE, AND THE HOLY OF HOLIES.

First Sights in Jerusalem--Appearance of the Streets--What the “Doubter” Thought--A Change of Opinion--The Tower of David--The Street of David--Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Scenes Around It--Palace of the Knights of St. John--Via Dolorosa--Damascus Gate--Walls of the Holy City--Visiting the Temple--The Ilarem and Mosque of Omar--Visiting the Substructions--A Triple Veneration--Place of Wailing--The Quarries--Remains of an Ancient Bridge,..........381

CHAP XXXI--AMONG THE MONKS.

From the Gates of Jerusalem to Bethlehem--A Touching Incident--Tent-Life at Bethlehem--The Milk Grotto--Its Miraculous Character--The “Doubter” Expresses Himself--The Oldest Christian Church in the World--Quarrelsome Monks--A Deadly Fight--Remarkable Conduct of the “Doubter”--Pious Pilgrims--A Christmas Festival--A Corpulent and Hospitable Monk--A Wearisome Ceremony--The Monks in Costume--The Women of Bethlehem--A Bevy of Beauties--Under Guard--Armenian Soldiers--Travelling to Saba--Among the Monks--A Curious Convent--Armed against the Bedouins,..........398

CHAP XXXII--AMONG THE BEDOUINS.--TRAVELLING UNDER ESCORT, AND LIVING IN TENTS.

Sleeping under Tents--A Bedouin Encampment--A howl for “Backsheesh” --A Queer Crowd--An Illusion Dispelled--An Eccentric “Rooster”--Our Guard--A Little bit of Humbug--“Going for” the “Doubter”--A Case of Blackmail--On Guard against Robbers--A Protection from the Sheik--Thievery as a Profession--Waters without Life--A Curious Bath--A Flood of Gold--The “Doubter” in a Rain Storm--A Dangerous Ford--A Nocturnal Mishap--An Atrocious Robbery--The “Doubter” once more in Trouble--A Turkish Escort--Falling among Thieves--The Judge’s Opinion on Shrinkage--The “Doubter” in the Role of a Mummy,..........413

CHAP XXXIII--THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, AND SHRINE OF THE CITY OF DAVID.

A Snow-storm in Jerusalem--The “Doubter’s” Opinion of Gum-Shoes--Kicked by a Vicious Horse--An Obliging Moslem--A Guard of Turks--Bloodthirsty Christians--An Extraordinary Shrine--The Angel’s Seat--The Quarrels of the Greek and Latin Monks--A Spot of Marvels--The Soil Pressed by the Feet of Christ--Strange Traditions--The Discovery of the True Cross--The Spot where Peter Denied his Lord--The Scene of the Last Supper--What a Wealthy Jew Did--The Man who was his own Father--The “Good Thief”--Extracting Sixpence from the “Doubter”--A Pertinacious Guide--Trying to Elude Pursuit--A Claim for Damages--Loading Up with Oranges--Talking in Four Languages,..........425

CHAP XXXIV--THE LAND OF PHARAOH.--THROUGH THE EGYPTIAN DESERT.

In Sight of Egypt--A Light-house looming through the Fog--On the Soil of the Pharaohs--An Invasion of Boatmen--Scenes in the Streets of Port Said--Encore de “Backsheesh”--The Great Suez Canal--Negotiations with a Cobbler--A Ludicrous Situation--A Bootless Customer--Egyptian Jugglers--Going through the Market--A Disagreeable Spectacle--A Pocket Steamer--Drinking to Absent Friends--On the “Raging Canawl”--Sleeping on Deck--A Sunrise in the Desert--On the Summit of the Isthmus--An Onslaught by Arab Baggage-smashers,..........440

CHAP XXXV--IN AND AROUND THE CITY OF THE CALIPHS.

A Costly Breakfast--Ismailia--The Palace of the Khedive--On an Egyptian Railroad Train--Rolling Through the Desert--The Delta of the Nile, What Is It?--The Garden of Egypt--Cairo--The Mighty Pyramids--Life at an Egyptian Hotel--Sights of the Capital--Cairo of To-Day--Occidental Progress and Oriental Conservatism--Burglaries and Other Modern Improvements--Cosmopolitan Costumes--A Harem Taking an Airing--A Daring Robbery--The Battle-Field of the Pyramids--Slaughter of the Mamelukes--Singular Escape of Emir Bey,..........446

CHAP XXXVI--AN INTERVIEW WITH THE KHEDIVE.--LIFE IN THE CITY OF THE NILE.

The Khedive, who is he?--A Hard-worked Pasha--His Personal Habits--My Interview with Him--Adventures of an Old Hat--Arranging Ourselves for a Royal Reception--An Eastern Monarch in a European Dress--An Unimpeachable Costume--A Fluent Talker--Bedouin Reporters--A Carriage from the Harem--Two Pair of Bright Eyes--Unveiling the Women--A Talk with a Couple of Pigmies--A Nation of Dwarf-Warriors--My Impressions of the Khedive,...........457

CHAP XXXVII--STREET LIFE IN CAIRO.

Cairo, Old and New--A Visit to the Ancient City--The Nilometer, what is it? Measuring the Rise of the Nile--Moses in the Bulrushes--Tombs of the Caliphs--An Egyptian Funeral--Curious Customs--“Crowding the Mourners”--Water-carriers and their Ways--A Noisy Tobacco-vender--Glimpses of the Arabian Nights--Among the Bazaars--Street Scenes in Cairo--A Cavalcade of Donkeys--Hoaxing a Donkey-boy--Amusing Spectacle--Putting Up a Ride at Auction--An Arab Story--A Nation of Liars, and why?--Mosques of Cairo--Stones from the Great Pyramid,..........468

CHAP XXXVIII--THE BAZAARS OF CAIRO.--EGYPTIAN CURIOSITY SHOPS.

More about the Bazaars--how they Sell Goods in Cairo--Furniture, Fleas, and Filth--Trading in Pipe-stems and Coffee-pots--A Queer Collection of Bric-a-Brac--Driving Close Bargains--A Specimen of Yankee Shrewdness--A Miniature Blacksmith Shop--A Cloud of Perfumes--Gems, Guns, and Damascus Blades--An Arabian Auction--At the Egyptian Opera--The Dancing Girls of Cairo--The Ladies from the Harem--A Scanty Costume--The Ballet of the “Prodigal Son”--The Ladies of the Opera and their Life,..........478

CHAP XXXIX--ADVENTURES WITH A DONKEY.--A DAY AT THE RACES.

A “Syce” what is he?--A Man with a Queer Dress and Large Calves--A Gorgeous Turnout--An Escort of Eunuchs--Veiled Beauties--A Flirtation and it Consequences--The Tale of a Dropped Handkerchief--The Donkey as a National Beast--A Tricky Brute and an Agile Driver--An Upset in the Mud--Astonishing the Natives--A Specimen of Arabic Wit--Going to the Races--The Grand Stand--A Dromedary Race--An Aristocratic Camel--The Arrival of the Khedive--Starting Up the Dromedaries--Cutting an Empress,..........488

CHAP XL--THE PASHA AND HIS PRIESTS--EGYPTIAN LANGUAGE--SCHOOLS AND RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES.

Egypt and her Relations with Turkey--The Army and Navy--Egyptian History Boiled Down--The Reigning Family--Wonderful Relics--Mohammed Ali as a Ruler--The Pasha and the Priests--Ordering a Wedding--Married on Short Notice--Gratifying the Empress Eugenie--An Arab School-room--A College with Nine Thousand Students--A Jaw-Breaking Language--How to Indite an Epistle in Arabic--The Caravan to Mecca--Going on a Pilgrimage--A Horrible Ceremony--Trampling on Dervishes--The “Bride of the Nile”--Extraordinary Customs,..........499

CHAP XLI--THE GREAT PYRAMIDS--IN THE KINGS’ BURIAL CHAMBERS.

A Visit to the great Pyramids--A Fellah not a Fellow--Sakkiehs and Shadoofs--A File of Camels and Donkeys--A Striking Spectacle--A Horde of Arabs--Troublesome Customers--The great Pyramid--How we Climbed It--A Giant Stairway--Dimensions Extraordinary--The Lost Arts--Standing on the Summit--The Judge’s Predicament--Arab Cormorants--What we Saw from the Top of the great Pyramid--Wonderful Contrasts--Performance of an Arabian Acrobat--A Race down the Pyramid Stairs--A Perilous Descent--Penetrating the Interior--The King’s Chamber--A Dusty Receptacle of Coffins--The Sphinx--A Mysterious Statue,..........513

CHAP XLII--A VOYAGE UP THE NILE.--THE MYSTERIES OF EGYPTIAN ART AND WORSHIP.

Up the Nile in a Sail-Boat--Starting for the Cataracts--Advantages of a Dragoman--A Tricky Lot--Frauds on Travellers--Our Party--Rather Cosmopolitan--Getting Ahead of Mr. Cook--Our Little Game, and How it Worked--A Bath with Spectators--Decidedly Cool--Getting Aground--A Picturesque Landscape--Last Glimpse of the Pyramids--Spending Night on Shore--Among the Ruins of Memphis--The Wonders of Egyptian Art--What Marrielte Bey Discovered--Laying Bare a Mysterious Sepulchre--Ancient Egyptian Worship--Sacred Bulls and Beetles--A History Written in Stone--Bricks Made by the Israelites,..........529

CHAP XLIII--LIFE ON THE BANKS OF THE NILE.--COPTS, JUGGLERS, AND THIEVES.--AMUSING EXPERIENCES.

Through an Arab Village--Creating a Sensation--The “Doubter” Alarmed--The Professor Perpetrates a Hoax--The Egyptian Saratoga--An Oriental Post-office--A Queer Town--Specimens of Ancient Art--A Wooden Statue Three Thousand Years Old--A Coptic Convent--“Backsheesh, Howadji!”--Carrying Money in their Mouths--Sturdy Beggars--An Expert Swimmer--The Copts, who are they? Skilful Swindlers--Sugar Mills on the Banks of the Nile--Egyptian Jugglers--A Snake-Charmer--Adroit Thieves--A Melancholy Experience in Donkey-riding,.........542

CHAP XLIV--ADVENTURES IN UPPER EGYPT.--FUN AND FROLIC WITH THE NATIVES.

Siout, the Capital of Upper Egypt--The Pasha’s Palace--An Egyptian Market Day--A Swift Boat--Going the rounds on a Donkey--Town Scenes--The Bazaars--Buying a Donkey--Tinkers, Peddlers, and Cobblers at work--A Curiosity Shop--Three Card Monte in the Land of the Pharaohs--Fighting the Tiger--The Professor takes a Hand--An Ignominious Defeat--A Doleful Tale--A River where the Wind is always Fair--The Temple and Tablet of Abydos--“Backsheesh” as a Medicine--Arab Villages in an Inundation--The Garden of the Valley--Fun with the Natives--A constant resource for a Practical Joker--Scrambling for Money--A Severe Joke,...........554

CHAP XLV--THE DANCING GIRLS OF KENEH.--THE TREASURES OF DENDERAH.

The Dates and Dancing Girls of Keneh--The Alma and the Ghawazee--The Dalilahs of Cairo--Going to the Dance Hall--An Outlandish Orchestra--The Drapery of the Dancers--The Cairo Wriggle--Curious Posturing--A Weird Scene-Dress and Undress--Miracles of Motion--A Fête at the German Consulate--Models for Painters and Sculptors--Arab and Nubian Nymphs--The Temple of Denderah--History Hewn in Stone--Cleopatra and her Portrait--The Fatal Asp--A Bit of Doggerel--The Coins of Old Egypt--The Professor’s Bargain--Digging for Treasure--Arrival at Luxor--Taking in Strangers,...........568

CHAP XLVI--LUXOR, THE CITY OF GIANTS--AMONG THE MUMMIES OF ANCIENT THEBES.

Luxor on the Site of Ancient Thebes--A City with a Hundred Gates--Enjoying a Consul’s Hospitality--An American Citizen of African Descent--A Dignified Rhinoceros--Karnak--A City of Wonders--Promenading in an Avenue of Sphinxes--A Gigantic Temple--Monster Obelisks--A Story in Stone--A Statue Weighing Nine Hundred Tons--The Sitting Colossi--A Singing Statue--Mysteries of Priestcraft--Lunching in the Tomb of Rameses--A Wonderful Treasure--How They Made Mummies--A Curious Process--The “Doubter” and the Mummy Sellers--The Judge Comes to Grief,..........585

CHAP XLVII--A VISIT TO A HAREM IN UPPER EGYPT.--LIFE AMONG THE NUBIANS.

A Visit to a Harem--Among the Daughters of the Nile--How they Looked and What was Done--Painted Eyelids--The Use of Henna--A Minute Inspection of Garments--Mustapha Agar “At Home”--Arab Astonishment--A Dinner _a l’Arabe_--Fingers vs. Forks--An Array of Queer Dishes--Novel Refreshment--Dancing Girls--Truck and Decker at Luxor--More “Ghawazee,” Pipes and Coffee--“A Love of a Donkey”--Song of Arabs--Arab Cruelty--A Nation of Stoics--Endurance of Pain--Among the Nubians--Ostriches, Arrows and Battle-Axes--A Nubian Dress--A Very Small Dressmaker’s Bill--A Scanty Wardrobe,..........600

CHAP XLVIII--CAMEL-RIDING.--ADVENTURES AMONG THE NUBIANS.

How they made the Royal Coffins--Splitting Blocks of Stones with Wooden Wedges--An Ingenious Device--A Ride on a Camel--A Beast indulging in Familiarities--Lunching on Trowsers--Mounting in the Saddle--Curious Sensation--An Interesting Brute--A Camel Solo--Sitting in a Dish--Camel-Riding in a Gymnastic Point of View--Secondary Effects--Nubian Ferry-Boats--P. T. and his Paint-Pot--Labors of an Enthusiastic American--Mr. Tucker on his Travels--“A Human Donkey”--Visiting the Cataract--Paying Toll to a Sheik--The Professor and his Camel--Crocodiles of the Nile--Starting Back to Cairo,.........612

CHAP XLIX--IN THE SLAVE COUNTRY--SIR SAMUEL W. BAKER’S EXPEDITION.

The Egyptian Slave Trade--How carried on--An Army of Kidnappers--A Slave King--Frightful Scenes--Sir Samuel Baker’s Expedition--A Shrewd Move--Breech-loaders as Civilizing Agents--A Missionary Outfit--Starting for the Slave Country--Reluctant Allies--The “Forty Thieves”--Running against a Snag--The Sacred Egyptian Flower--The Lotos-Eaters, Who were They?--The New York Lotophagi--The Papyrus or Vegetable Paper--Capturing a Cargo of Slaves--The Plague of Flies--A few more “likely Niggers”--Marrying by Wholesale--A Fight with the Natives--The Result of the Expedition,..........623

CHAP L--SUNSET IN THE ORIENT.--VOYAGING DOWN THE NILE.

An Egyptian Sunset--A Gorgeous Spectacle--The Sky that bends above the Nile--Singular Atmospheric Phenomena--A Picture for an Artist--Shadows from History--Napoleon and the Pyramids--Our Voyage Back to Cairo--Scenes by the Way--“Cook’s Tourists”--An Amusing Sight--Night-Fall on the Nile--A Flame of Rockets--“What does it Mean?”--The Marriage of the Khedive’s Son--Feminine Disappointment--Jumping Ashore--Aboard of Donkeys--Gustave’s Somersault--Practical Sympathy--In the Pasha’s Garden--A Magnificent Sight--The Wedding Pageant--Elbowing an Arab Crowd--A Pyrotechnic Shower,.........637

CHAP LI--THE WEDDING OF THE KHEDIVE’S SON.--ENJOYING A MONARCH’S HOSPITALITY.

High Jinks in the Egyptian Capital--Dancing Horses--Arabian Blooded Steeds--Treading the “Light Fantastic Toe”--Bedouin Riders--The Mysterious Cage--Egyptian Prima Donnas--A Spice of the Arabian Nights--A Silken Palace--Headquarters of the Khedive--Thoughtless Intruders upon Royalty--A Glimpse of the Princes Royal--The Heir of the Throne of Egypt--His Appearance, Dress, and Character--A Cordial Invitation--Partaking of the Khedive’s Hospitality--A Turkish Comedy--A Free Lunch--End of the Festival,..........***

CHAP LII--WOMEN AMONG THE MOHAMMEDANS.--LIFE IN THE HAREM.

Polygamy Among the Turks and Arabs--A Full-Stocked Harem--Unveiling the Women--Romantic Adventure--A Brief Flirtation--The “Light of the Harem”--Love at First Sight--how Egyptian Women Dress--Some Hints to the Ladies--Wearing Trowsers--Robes, _Caftans_, and Peaked Shoes--Rainbow Colors--How they Dress their Hair--Crowned with Coins--A Walking Jewelry Shop--The Pretty Egyptienne Orange Girl--Street Costume--Paris Fashions in the Khedive’s Harem--Beauties Riding Donkeys Man Fashion--How they Go Shopping--Animated Bales of Dry Goods--Black Eyes in a Bundle of Silks--Marriage Brokers--How they Dispose of their Daughters in the East--A Turkish Courtship--A Donkey Driver Gives an Opinion--The Wedding and the Honeymoon--Divorces in Egypt--An Easy Process--Many-Wived Men,..........650

CHAP LIII--WINTER ON THE NILE.--THE KHAMSEEN AND ITS EFFECTS.--BEDOUIN LIFE.

Winter in Egypt--A soft and balmy air--A Rainstorm on the Nile--An Asylum for Invalids--The Month of Flowers--The “Khamseen,” What is it?--A blast as from a Furnace--Singular effects of the South Wind--A Sun like Copper and a Sky like Brass--A cloud of Sand--Eating Dirt--Fleeing from the Khamseen--How the Laboring Classes Live--Hungry but not Cold--Oriental Houses--An Excursion to Heliopolis--Habits of the Bedouins--A Fastidious People--Life in a Bedouin Encampment--Among the Obelisks--How they were brought Five Hundred Miles--The Madonna-Tree,...........667

CHAP LIV--LAST DAYS IN EGYPT.

The Last Stroll around the Mooskee--Talking to the Donkey-Boys and Dragomen--A Queer Lot--A Pertinacious Customer--The Judge’s Expedient--A Little Humbug--Rich American Tourists “in a Horn”--The Dragoman’s Salutation “Sing Sing!”--Getting Rid of a Nuisance--Buying Keepsakes--Out of the Desert into a Garden--Curiosities for Farmers--A Mohammedan Festival--Curious Sights--Snake Charmers--How they do it--Music-Loving Reptiles--On an Egyptian Railroad--Pompey’s Pillar--A Ludicrous Accident--Alexandria, its Sights and Scenes--Climbing Pompey’s Pillar--A Daring Sailor--An Arab Swindle--Going on Board the Steamer--Farewell to Egypt,...........678

BACKSHEESH.

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“B A C K S H E E S H.”