Chapter I: Front Matter

THE SUNNY SOUTH.

AN AUTUMN

IN SPAIN AND MAJORCA.

BY

CAPTAIN J. W. CLAYTON, F.R.G.S.,

LATE 13TH HUSSARS.

LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1869.

_The Right of Translation is reserved._

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THE SUNNY SOUTH.

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I INSCRIBE THIS BOOK

TO

ISABEL AND HAROLD,

IN THE HOPE THAT THESE PASSAGES IN THE TRAVEL-LIFE OF
THEIR FATHER MAY BE SOME DAY NOT WITHOUT
INTEREST TO THEM.

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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRÂCE.--ROUEN.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OF
ENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST CATHERINE.--THE
SEINE.--NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.--LISIEUX.--STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON 1

CHAPTER II.

LE MANS.--ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.--THE LUXURY OF BATHING.--CATHEDRAL
OF ST. JULIEN.--TOURS.--POITIERS.--ANGOULÊME.--BORDEAUX.--EN ROUTE
FOR BAYONNE.--A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.--A LONELY REGION.--HOTEL
INTERIOR.--INGENIOUS INVENTION.--TABLE D'HÔTE 16

CHAPTER III.

THE CITADEL.--BIARRITZ.--HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.--EN ROUTE FOR
SPAIN.--ST. JEAN DE LUZ.--HENDAYE.--THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.--WINTER
IN SPAIN.--IRUN.--CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.--ST. SEBASTIAN.--THE
ALAMEDA PROMENADE.--THE PLAIN OF VITTORIA 34

CHAPTER IV.

BURGOS.--THE FONDA DEL NORTE.--THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.--SPANISH
CHARACTERISTICS.--SCENES IN THE STREETS.--THE CONVENT OF LA
CARTUJA.--TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.--THE CASTLE.--THE CID.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--HOW PRIESTS MAKE MONEY 57

CHAPTER V.

AGAIN ON THE RAIL.--VALLADOLID.--THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.--THE
COLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.--CONVENT INTERIOR.--CHAMBER OF
HORRORS.--COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.--THE CATHEDRAL.--SPANISH
CHARACTERISTICS.--THE THEATRE.--USE OF TOBACCO 80

CHAPTER VI.

EN ROUTE FOR MADRID.--TYPES OF NATIONAL CHARACTER.--GEOLOGICAL
CONNECTION OF SPAIN AND AFRICA.--A STATION IN THE
WILDERNESS.--AVILA.--A FUNERAL.--THE GUADARRAMA HILLS.--THE
ADUANEROS.--MADRID.--HOTEL DE LOS PRINCIPES.--PUERTA DEL SOL 103

CHAPTER VII.

MADRID.--GREAT ENGINEERING FEAT.--THE PICTURE-GALLERY.--PASTIMES
AND OCCUPATIONS OF THE MADRILEÑOS.--THE BATH AND TOILET.--QUEEN
ISABEL AND THE KING CONSORT.--THE VIRGIN'S WARDROBE.--THE ROYAL
ARMERIA.--REMARKABLE PAINTINGS.--CHURCH IN THE CALLE DE TOLEDO 122

CHAPTER VIII.

THE ESCORIAL.--ITS PRECINCTS.--SPIRIT AND CHARACTER OF THE
EDIFICE.--MAUSOLEUM OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN.--MELANCHOLY
GUIDE.--SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES.--ROYAL REMAINS.--CHARLES V.--PHILIP
II.--THE PLAZA MAYOR OF MADRID.--QUEEN ISABELLA AT THE OPERA 142

CHAPTER IX.

A BULL-FIGHT.--THE ARENA.--THE SPECTATORS.--PROCESSION.--THE
BULL.--APPEARANCE OF THE MEN AND HORSES.--NIMBLE FOOTMEN.--THE
COMBAT.--SCENE OF HORROR.--THE BANDERILLEROS.--THE ESPADA.--DEATH
OF THE BULL 158

CHAPTER X.

TOLEDO.--VIEW OF THE CITY.--THE CATHEDRAL.--PROCESS OF
SMOKE-DRYING.--ALMANZA.--VALENCIA.--THE FONDA DE MADRID.--A
BENEVOLENT DOCTOR.--SPANISH MULETEERS.--HOW CONTROVERSIES ARE
SETTLED 171

CHAPTER XI.

VOYAGE TO THE BALEARES.--MAJORCA--PALMA DE MALLORCA.--OUR
APPREHENSION.--FONDA DE LAS TRES PALOMAS.--HISTORICAL
NOTICES.--DON JAYME.--THE RAMBLA.--COSTUME.--LANGUAGE.--CLIMATE.
--CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE 196

CHAPTER XII.

THE VALE OF SOLLER.--INTRODUCTION OF THE TELEGRAPH.--SUPERSTITION
OF THE PEASANTRY.--PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.--THE ROAD.--GUARDIA
CIVIL.--OBLIGING LANDLADY.--BRIDGE OF LA MÀ.--BATTLE WITH THE
TURKS 219

CHAPTER XIII.

THE PORT OF SOLLER.--CONVENT OF LLUCH.--A LEGEND OF THE
MONASTERY.--CATHEDRAL OF PALMA.--REMAINS OF KING JAYME
II.--ATTRACTIONS OF THE BALEARIC ISLES.--MINORCA.--ITS CONNECTION
WITH ENGLISH HISTORY 237

CHAPTER XIV.

HOW TO STUDY SPANISH CHARACTER.--BULL-FIGHTS.--PROVISION FOR THE
SPIRITUAL WELFARE OF BULL-FIGHTERS.--FIGHT BETWEEN AN ELEPHANT
AND A BULL.--EXPEDITION TO THE CAVES OF ARTÀ 249

CHAPTER XV.

CONSIDERATIONS ON SANITARY MATTERS.--THE MEDICAL PROFESSION IN
SPAIN.--THE ART OF PACKING.--NIGHT SIGNALS.--EL GRAO.--CHASSE AUX
CALEÇONS ROUGES.--VALENCIA.--DRIVE THROUGH THE CITY.--THE
CATHEDRAL 267

CHAPTER XVI.

DEPARTURE FROM VALENCIA.--A RAILWAY JOURNEY.--DIFFICULTIES TO
WHICH TRAVELLERS ARE EXPOSED.--TARRAGONA.--SKETCHES OF ITS
HISTORY.--ARRIVAL AT BARCELONA 281

CHAPTER XVII.

BARCELONA.--HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES.--CASTLE OF MONJUICH.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--THE GRAND OPERA.--THE PLAZA DE TOROS.--THE LITTLE
ROPE-WALKER.--MONTSERRAT 295

CHAPTER XVIII.

ANCIENT BRIDGE OF GERONA.--THE POPULATION.--A FIESTA.--SEARCH
FOR AN HOTEL.--THE FONDA DE LA ESTRELLA.--LAST SIEGE OF
GERONA.--THE CATHEDRAL.--A FEW CONCLUDING WORDS ON SPAIN 313

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