Chapter I: Preface

THE Author’s object in offering to the Public the following pages is, that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may also have an opportunity of seeing the most _interesting_ portion of it in a tour which will not occupy more than a month. The route described in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe. It is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in which nature’s prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive lakes; or _that_ where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the summits of which a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the eye,—wherein the valleys, glens, and wild ravines present an endless variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall pour forth their melody of never-tiring sweetness, to delight the ear?

Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the _former_; while, in the route here represented to the Public—within the reach of all—repose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of North Wales. The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs after a day’s ramble in whatever part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and the healthy and active should decidedly make _use_ of their _limbs_, to bear them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance. A good horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights upon the ponies, which are always in readiness at the inns for that purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction that the one is a most unnecessary burthen to the other.

The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate every action of their unfettered limbs. Though their fare is humble, they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills, and their happy ignorance of luxuries, gives an enviable zest. Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers: milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to satisfy their utmost wishes.

“Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’ small,
He sees his little lot the lot of all.

* * * *

Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,
And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.
And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest,
Clings close and closer to the mother’s breast,
So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind’s roar,
But bind him to his native mountains more.”

DIRECTIONS TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE.

A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers that transpire upon the road. The names of places must effectually puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each letter particularly where there are many consonants in a word. In order, therefore, to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following rules.

In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are circumflex must be pronounced long, as

Bôn like the English bone. Bin, as been. C, always as K in English. Ch, is pronounced as the Greek _Χ_. Dd, as the English th in this, that, thou. F, as V in English. Ff as F and double F in English. G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial. I, as I in king, but never as in fire. Ll, as L aspirated. Th, as in thought. U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss, &c. W, as double O in good, wood. Y, as U in burn; but in the last syllable of a word, and in all monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in Sin.

By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place to which he may be journeying.

GLOSSARY.

_Ab_, (or _Ap_,) the son of. _Aber_, the junction of a river with the sea. _Allt_, a hill; a mutation of _gallt_. _Annedd_, a dwelling place. _Am_, about. _Ar_, upon. _Arvon_, bordering upon _Môn_, or Anglesey. _Ardal_, a region. _Argae_, an embankment. _Avon_, a river. _Bâch_, little; when joined to a substantive feminine, it is written _vâch_. _Bala_, an outlet. _Ban_, high, lofty. Plur. _banau_, heights, or eminences. _Banc_, a bank. _Bâs_, shallow. _Bedd_, a grave. _Blaen_, a point, upper end, or extremity. _Bôd_, an abode, residence, habitation. _Bôn_, the base. _Braenar_, fallow land. _Braich_, an arm. _Brîg_, top, summit. _Brîth_, speckled, mottled. _Bron_, a breast, the slope of a hill. _Bryn_, a hill, or mount. Pl. _bryniau_. _Buwch_, a cow. _Bwlch_, a pass, or defile. Pl. _bylchau_. _Câd_, battle, war. _Cader_, a chair. _Cae_, a field. Pl. _caeau_. _Caer_, a fortress, or fortified town. _Cantrev_, a district containing 100 townships. A canton, a hundred. _Capel_, a chapel. _Careg_, a stone. Pl. _ceryg_. _Carn_, a heap of stones. The hoof of a horse. _Carnedd_, a heap of stones. Pl. _carneddau_. _Castell_, a castle. Pl. _cestyll_. _Ceulan_, bank of a river. _Cevn_, the bank, ridge of a hill. _Cîl_, a recess. _Cilvach_, a small recess. _Clawdd_, a hedge, dyke. _Clawdd Offa_, Offa’s dyke. _Clogwyn_, a precipice. _Côch_, red. _Coed_, trees. Sing. _coeden_, a tree. _Côr_, a circle, a choir. _Bangor_, high choir. _Corlan_, a sheepfold. _Cors_, a bog, or fen. _Craig_, a rock, a crag. Pl. _creigiau_. _Croes_, a cross. _Crug_, a hillock. Pl. _crugion_. _Cwm_, a valley, dingle, glen. _Cymmer_, the junction of two rivers. _Dau_, two. _Dehau_, south, the right side. _Din_, _dinas_, a city, a fort, a fortified place on a hill. _Dôl_, a meadow. _Drws_, a doorway. _Du_, black; hence _dwrdu_, the river Dee; literally, Black-water. _Dwy_, two. (fem.) _Dwr_, or _dwvr_, water. Pl. _dyvroedd_. _Eglwys_, a church. _Erw_, an acre. _Esgair_, a leg, a long ridge of mountain. _Fordd_, a road. _Fynnon_, a fountain, a well. _Gaer_, a mutation of _caer_, as _y gaer_, the fortress. _Gallt_, a hill; in construction, _allt_. _Gardd_, a garden. _Garth_, a promontory. _Gelli_, a grove of hazels. _Glan_, the brink, bank; _glan y môr_, the sea side. _Glâs_, blue, grey, green. _Glyn_, a glen. _Gorsav_, a station, stand. _Grug_, heath. _Gwaelod_, a bottom. _Gwaen_, a large plain. _Gwern_, watery meadow. Alder. _Gwydd_, wood. _Gwyn_, white. Fem. _gwen_, _wen_. _Gwyrdd_, green. Fem. _gwerdd_, _werdd_. _Havod_, a summer dwelling. _Hen_, old. _Hendre_, old mansion. _Heol_, a street. _Hir_, long. _Iâl_, open country. _Is_, lower. _Isav_, lowest. _Llain_, a long piece. _Llan_, a church; a village with a church. _Llawr_, a floor. _Llech_, a flat stone, slate, slab. _Lluest_, an encampment. _Llwyd_, grey, hoary. _Llwyn_, a grove, a bush, a copse. _Llyn_, a lake, pool. _Llys_, a court, a palace. _Maen_, a stone. Pl. _meini_. _Maenor_, a manor. _Maes_, an open field. _Mall_, bad, rotten. _Man_, a place. _Mawn_, peat. _Mawnog_, a turbary. _Mawr_, great, large. _Melin_, a mill. _Melyn_, yellow. _Merthyr_, a martyr. _Moel_, bald, bare; a bare hill. _Môn_, Anglesey. _Môr_, the sea. _Morva_, a marsh. _Mynach_, a monk. _Mynydd_, a mountain. _Nant_, a brook, ravine, glen. _Neuadd_, a hall. _Newydd_, new. _Ochr_, a side. _Pant_, a hollow. _Parth_, a division, a part. _Pen_, a head. _Penmaen_, a promontory, a rocky head. _Penrhyn_, a promontory, a cape. _Pentrev_, a village, a hamlet. _Perth_, a brake, a thornbush. _Pistyll_, a spout of water. _Plâs_, a mansion, a hall. _Plwyv_, a parish. _Pont_, a bridge. _Porth_, a gate, a ferry. _Pwll_, a pit, a pool. _Rhaiadr_, a cataract, a waterfall. _Rhiw_, a slope. _Rhôs_, a moor. _Rhudd_, crimson, ruddy. _Rhyd_, a ford. _Rhydycroesau_, the ford of the Crosses. _Sarn_, a causeway. _Serth_, steep, abrupt. _Swydd_, an office, a county. _Tal_, the head or front. _Talcen_, the forehead. _Tan_, under. _Tervyn_, the boundary. _Tir_, the earth. _Tommen_, a tumulus. _Traeth_, a sand. _Trev_, a town. _Tri_, three. _Troed_, a foot. Pl. _traed_, feet. _Trwyn_, a nose. _Twr_, a tower. _Ty_, a house. Pl. _Tai_, houses. _Tyddyn_, a farm. _Tywyn_, a strand, a sandy shore. _Uchav_, highest. _Uwch_, higher. _Y_, the. _Yn_, in. _Ynys_, an island. _Yspytty_, a hospital. _Ystlys_, the side, the flank. _Ystrad_, a flat, a vale. _Ystum_, a bend. _Ystwyth_, flexible.

THE ROUTE.

ROUTE. MILES. OBSERVATIONS.
From LONDON to SHREWSBURY, thence 154 _Objects of
to Interest_.—Castle,
Abbey, Lord Hill’s
Column, Quarry Walk,
and Town Hall.

_Angling
Station_.—The Severn.

_Hotels_.—The Lion,
Raven, Raven and
Bell, and Crown.
CHIRK 22 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Castle, Brynkinalt,
Viaduct, Aqueduct,
and Vale.

_Angling
Station_.—The
Ceiriog.

_Hotel_.—The Chirk
Castle Arms.
LLANGOLLEN 7 _Objects of
Interest_.—Church,
Plâs Newydd, Castle
Dinas Brân, Valle
Crucis Abbey, Pillar
of Eliseg, Aqueduct
and Viaduct.

_Angling
Stations_.—The Dee,
to Corwen or Overton.

_Hotels_.—The Hand,
Royal Hotel, and
Ponsonby Arms.
CORWEN 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Church, Cross,
Glyndwr’s Seat, Vale
of Edeyrnion.

_Angling
Stations_.—Between
Corwen and
Llansaintffraid
bridge.

_Hotel_.—The Owen
Glyndwr.
LLANDRILLO 6 _Hotel_.—White Lion.
BALA 6 _Objects of
Interest_.—The Lake,
Aran Vawddwy, Arenig
Vawr, Arenig Vâch.

_Angling
Stations_.—Bala Lake,
River Dee, Treweryn,
&c.

_Hotels_.—White Lion
and Bull’s Head.
DOLGELLEY 18 _Objects of
Interest_.—Nannau
Park, Kymmer Abbey,
County Gaol,
Parliament House of
Owen Glyndwr, Pistyll
Cain, Rhaiadr
Mawddach, and
Dolymelynllyn.
Llanvachreth
Waterfall.

_Angling
Stations_.—Mawddach,
River Wnion, Llyn
Cregynan, S.W. 4
miles, Llyn-y-Gader,
1½ m., Llyn Geirw, 5
m., Tal-y-llyn, on
Cader Idris, 6 m.

_Hotels_.—Golden
Lion, Angel, & Ship.
BARMOUTH 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—Old Town,
Sarn Badrig,
Cors-y-gedol.

_Angling
Stations_.—Llyn
Raithlyn, nr.
Trawsvynydd, Arthog
Chapel, 3 m. distant,
Llyn Bodlyn, 4 miles
from Barmouth, Llyn
Irddyn and Llyn
Geirw, near the town.

_Hotel_.—Cors-y-gedol
Arms.
HARLECH 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Castle, Cwm Bychan,
Cromlech, 2 m. S. in
a farm called Gwern
Einion; Druidical
Circle between the
farm and Harlech.

_Angling
Stations_.—
Llanvihangel, on
Dwyryd, 5 m.;
Llanbedr on the
Artro, 3 m.;
Llyn-y-Vedw, Llyn
Eiddew, Gloywlyn;
Llyn y Cwm Bychan,
Llyn Trewyn.

_Hotel_.—The Blue
Lion.
MAENTWROG 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—Tan-y-
Bwlch, Slate
Quarries, 5 m.;
Rhaiadr Du and Raven
Fall, 2 m.;
Festiniog, 3 m.;
Falls of Cynvael,
Roman Encampment
(Tommen-y-Mur), 3 m.
from Festiniog.

_Angling
Stations_.—Llyn
Llenyrch, 3½ m. (good
trout); Cwmmorthin
Lake (in the Pass of
Cwmmorthin) 4½ m.;
Llyn-y-Manod, 6 m.
(large trout);
Llyn-y-Morwynion, 6
m.; Llyn Tecwyn, 3
m.; Llyn Conwy, Llyn
Garw.

_Hotels_.—Maentwrog
Inn, Oakley Arms. At
Festiniog, Pengwern
Arms.
TREMADOC 10½ _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Breakwater at Port
Madoc; Church.

_Angling Station_.—At
Tremadoc.

_Hotel_.—Madoc Arms.
BEDDGELERT 10½ _Objects of
Interest_.—Pont Aber
Glaslyn, Gelert’s
Grave, Chair of Rhys
Gôch o’r Eryri.

_Angling
Stations_.—Nant
Gwynnant, Llyn Dinas,
Cwm Llan, Llyn
Gwynnant, Llyn
Llydaw, Pont Aber
Glaslyn.

_Hotel_.—The Goat.
LLANBERIS 14 _Objects of
Interest_.—Dolbadarn
Castle, Church, Tomb
of Little John Closs,
Well of St. Peris,
Lakes, Pass.

_Angling
Stations_.—Upper and
Lower Lakes (bad
sport), Llyn Cwm
Dwythog, 2 m.; Llyn
Llydaw (on Snowdon),
5 m.; Glaslyn, on the
west of Snowdon.

_Hotels_.—Victoria
and Snowdonia.
CAPEL CURIG 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—Rhaiadr-y-
Wennol Waterfall,
Moel-Siabod,
Dolwyddelan Castle, 5
m.

_Angling
Stations_.—Same as
above.

_Hotel_.—Capel Curig
Inn.
BETTWS-Y-COED 5 _Objects of
Interest_.—Pont-y-
Pair, Shenkin’s Cave,
Church, Monument to
Davydd Gôch.

_Angling
Stations_.—Lake
Ogwen, Nant Francon,
Llyn Idwal, River
Llugwy.
LLANRWST 5 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Bridge, Gwydir
Castle, Church,
Gwydir Chapel.

_Angling
Stations_.—Bettws-y-
Coed, 3 m.; Trevriw,
2½ m.; Dolgarrog, 4
m.; Llanbedr, 5 m.;
Dolwyddelan, 8 m.;
Tal-y-Llyn, and Llyn
Cravnant, near
Llanrwst.

_Hotel_.—The Eagles.
CONWY 12 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Castle, Church,
Curious Monuments,
Plâs Mawr, Ormshead,
Suspension and
Tubular Bridges.

_Angling
Stations_.—Same as
above.

_Hotels_.—Castle &
Newborough Arms.
BANGOR 9 _Objects of
Interest_.—Penrhyn
Castle, Slate
Quarries, Britannia
Tubular Bridge, Menai
Bridge, Beaumaris,
Castle, Penmon
Monastery, Plas
Newydd, Baron Hill,
Puffin Island, and
the Cathedral.

_Angling
Stations_.—Llyn
Ogwen, Llyn Idwal,
and Ogwen River.

_Hotels_.—The Penrhyn
Arms, Castle,
Liverpool Arms, and
Albion.
CARNARVON 8 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Castle, the Harbour,
and Ruins of
Segontium, at
Llanbeblig.

_Hotels_.—Uxbridge
Arms, Castle, and
Sportsman.

_Angling
Stations_.—The
Seiont, Pont Newydd.
_And back to Bangor_ 8
ABERGELE 25¼ _Objects of
Interest_.—Kinmel
Park, Gwrych Castle.

_Angling
Stations_.—Elwy,
Aled.

_Hotel_.—Bee.
RHYL 4¼ _Objects of
Interest_.—A _detour_
viâ Rhuddlan, 2 m.,
St. Asaph, 3½,
Denbigh, 6, affords a
pleasant day’s
excursion.

_Angling
Stations_.—Clwyd and
Elwy.

_Hotels_.—Belvoir,
Royal, Mostyn Arms.
HOLYWELL 13 _Objects of
Interest_.—St.
Winefred’s Well,
Basingwerk.

_Hotels_.—White
Horse, King’s Arms,
King’s Head, Red
Lion.
FLINT 5 _Object of
Interest_.—The
Castle.

_Hotels_.—Royal Oak,
Ship.
HAWARDEN 7½ _Objects of
Interest_.—Castle and
Park.

_Hotel_.—Glynne Arms.
CHESTER 7 _Objects of
Interest_.—The Castle
and Armory, the
Walls, Rows,
Cathedral, Old Houses
in Watergate Street,
Underground Chapel in
Bridge Street, and
the Ancient Residence
of the Earls of
Derby.

_Angling
Station_.—The Dee.

_Hotels_.—Royal,
Albion, Feathers,
White Lion, Green
Dragon, Blossoms,
Hop-pole.

FIVE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER OR SHREWSBURY.

FIRST DAY.—Chester or Shrewsbury to Llangollen Road Station by rail, 20 miles; Llangollen, 5 m; Corwen, 10 m. SECOND DAY.—Bettws y Coed, 22½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m; Capel Curig, 10 m. THIRD DAY.—Llanberis, 10 m; Dolbadarn Castle and back, 4 m; Beddgelert, 12 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Carnarvon, 13 m. FOURTH DAY.—Bangor, 8 m; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6½ m. FIFTH DAY.—Conwy, 14¼ m; Llandudno, Orme’s Head, back to Conwy, 10; and per rail to Chester, 45½ m.

NINE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER.

FIRST DAY.—Chester to Hawarden, 7 m; Flint, 7 m; Holywell, 5 m. SECOND DAY.—Rhyl, 13½ m; Rhuddlan, 2 m; St. Asaph, 3½ m; Denbigh, 6 m. THIRD DAY.—Abergele, 13 m; Conwy, 11 m.; Llandudno and back, 10 m. FOURTH DAY.—Bangor, 14½ m.; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6 m. (See Bridges.) FIFTH DAY.—Holyhead and back, 50 m; Carnarvon, 8. SIXTH DAY.—Beddgelert, 13 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Llanberis, 12 m; Dolbadarn and back, 4 m. SEVENTH DAY.—Capel Curig, 10 m.; Rhaiadr y Wennol, 3½ m.; Bettws y Coed, 1½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m. EIGHTH DAY.—Corwen, 26 m; Llangollen, 10 m. (See Valle Crucis Abbey, Castell Dinas Brân, and Plâs Newydd.) NINTH DAY.—Pont y Cysylltau Aqueduct, 3 m; Chirk, 3 m; (see Chirk Castle and Brynkinalt;) Ruabon, 6; (see Wynnstay); Wrexham, 4½; Chester, 12 m.

* * * * *

*** For objects of interest, angling stations, and hotels, see first Route.