Chapter III: Part 3

But to return—to cut into so hard a rock the contractors have to adopt the process of blasting, which is carried on upon a magnitude which has never been equalled. To penetrate the rocks sets of workmen, in twos, are employed in different parts of the face of the mountain, and these men drive a heading or gallery into the solid rock, about five feet high and three wide, for a distance of 30 to 40 feet, which is accomplished chiefly by blasting. In the extremity of this gallery, which runs first horizontally, and is then sunk perpendicularly, the powder is placed in a wood-case or bag, and the hole being tamped or filled up with clay, it is fired by the galvanic battery. The charges vary from one to five tons of gunpowder, according to the face of the rock to be acted upon; and the quantities thrown down varies from six to thirty thousand tons in an explosion. One of these “headings” or “shots” as they are called, went off this day (Dec. 7, 1852). Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart., the Rev. J. Williams, M. Errington Stanley, Esq., and G. F. Lyster, Esq., were present on the occasion, and took their station on a bridge to witness the “shot;” but on seeing the stones roll through the air, they deemed it prudent to act upon the well known maxim, “retreat is the better part of valour,” and instantly left their elevated position, and placed themselves beneath the abutment of the bridge. The writer, who was present, was a little amused to see such a fine illustration of the first law of nature—SELF PRESERVATION. As a proof of the fearful extent of these explosions, I would just observe, that although the bridge on which the aforesaid gentlemen stood was about 800 yards from the quarry, a stone fell within a few yards of it. The effect of these blastings on the rock are sometimes of a curious character, but generally speaking the rock when thrown down leaves the surface of the cliff smooth and perpendicular. The stones thrown out are generally large, many of them weighing twenty tons. Shafts are also sunk from 30 to 40 feet deep. The quantity of stone taken from the quarries is accurately weighed, and already about two million tons have been buried in the sea. During the past year the average deposit has amounted to 3,500 tons per day, and supposing that there have been 250 full working days, this would give a deposit for the year of 875,000 tons.

The mode of operation is as follows. The rough breakwater is formed by rubble-stones, brought from the mountain in waggons peculiarly constructed for the express purpose (the design of which, I understand, was furnished by the resident engineer, and proves the versatility of his genius), and dropped perpendicularly through the staging into the sea, and is then left to be dealt with by the sea, which arranges the deposit in a manner best suited to form a consolidated mass; and it is calculated that, when a sufficient portion of the mountain has been dropped into the sea, there will be formed a breakwater which will have an average base of from 400 to 500 feet, and this will gradually slope upwards to about 50 feet on the summit of the breakwater on which the stone pier will be built. But after all the sea is the great workman. We find the materials, and it makes the foundation; or as the celebrated French engineer, Monsieur Cachin, observes, “If man be strong enough to heap together rocks in the midst of the ocean, the action of the sea alone can dispose them in the manner most likely to ensure their stability.” This is now most effectually carried out by this new means of depositing stones. When a heavy sea comes on, it breaks over the ridges of rubble-rocks, which are interspersed amongst the timber of the staging, and gradually lowers them, carrying away ridge after ridge, until that which was far above the water is completely submerged; and the sea acting upon these stones gradually solidifies the mass, which binds itself into the clayey bottom of the harbour, and the whole becomes tenaciously cemented to the ground. And this process will go on until the deposit shall have formed a place sufficiently inclined to sustain the breaking of the sea without removal.

The slopes, it is understood, will be faced with dressed stone to a certain extent, similar to the fine specimen of beautiful workmanship, which has been executed for about 100 yards, at the seaward side of “Soldier’s Point.”

The present effective staff consists of eight locomotive engines, running on five lines of railway on the breakwater; a fixed engine for grinding, fifty horses, and 1,300 men; and the stores embrace all things requisite for conducting the work in a self-supporting manner. This mass of mind and matter is able every day to accomplish a removal into the sea of 4,000 tons weight of the mountain, and so the work proceeds.

The works are being carried on by the spirited contractors with the utmost expedition compatible with good workmanship. The present extent of the north breakwater is 3,700 feet, which leaves about 1,400 feet to be constructed. The east pier extends 1,000 feet, which is about half its intended length. {51} Attention has also been directed to the permanent wall of the great breakwater on the harbour side, with a view to find quay accommodation for vessels to discharge, and for steamers to take in coals. About 800 feet of this walling is now being levelled for the quay, on which cranes, &c., are to be placed immediately, and a connection may ultimately be made with the railway.

When the work will be ended is a wide question. It is said the Contractors are under an engagement to finish their work by the close of 1855. The works are certainly progressing satisfactorily, and on the part of the Contractors there is a desire to urge them forward as rapidly as it is possible to proceed. It is a work which all desire to see accomplished and in use at as early a moment as the works can be safely and scientifically completed.

The public mind exults in these vast undertakings, “vain man would” now-a-days not only “be wise,” but he would be _powerful_, and he delights, not merely in soliciting the aid of Nature, but in “attacking” it. When the whole undertaking is completed, protected by batteries, and ornamented with light-houses, observatories, and telegraphs, and adorned with promenades, and a Sailors’ Chapel, it will present a very interesting illustration of the success with which intellect and perseverance and enterprise have been crowned; and will be indicative not only of the wealth of the nation, but a proof of the mental over the physical world, worthy of Britain in the nineteenth century.

The words of the immortal Shakespeare, put into the mouth of one of his heroines, may, with a slight alteration, be applied to the New Harbour:—

— This same blessed (Milford) Holyhead, and, by the way
Tell me how Wales was made so happy as
To inherit such a haven.

For certain purposes, such as shelter, the harbour will become progressively available. Great benefit has been derived from the works, even in their present imperfect state. Hundreds of vessels have already taken shelter under the breakwater; the writer has counted as many as forty vessels at one time anchored in the Harbour; and the time is not far distant, when the spacious and beautiful haven will afford a refuge to ships of all sizes. When the foaming surges rave, and the billows roar—when the storm-cloud broods, and the thunder-storms crash—when hurricane howls music, on the wild wide sea, and the big waves roll the chorus; when the shattered vessel is driven the mock of ocean, and the sport of winds, her tars will anchor here, and, safely moored, will tell their wonders over.—

Safe from the wind and tide
The mighty vessels will triumphant ride.

The works may be seen by visitors, subject to certain regulations, by seeking a pass at the Engineer’s Office, near the works, in the obtaining of which there is no difficulty.

CHESTER AND HOLYHEAD RAILWAY.

Railways have given an impetus to our country’s civilization. They are the veins and arteries by means of which the circulation of the social body is carried on. Remote places are, by this means, virtually brought near to each other; and thus, while intelligence is diffused, an impulse is given to commerce, each of which advantages most powerfully affects the conditions of the people. The benefits of cheap and quick communication to a great commercial state are too evident to require to be enlarged upon. Time and money are thus importantly saved, and a rapid and economical transit of goods, by lessening their costs, enable the humblest to partake of comforts which were formerly considered as luxuries only for the rich.

Amongst the railway enterprises in this kingdom, the Chester and Holyhead line must be considered as possessing peculiar claims to public attention. The stupendous character of the work—the difficulties which had to be overcome, and the vast sum invested in the undertaking, place this line in the foremost rank amongst the splendid achievements of our days; indeed we may justly consider it the masterpiece of the human intellect, and the wonder of the nineteenth century. In its course, it divides broad estuaries, it penetrates the bowels of the loftiest hills, forming an iron-road where the foot of man had never trod, and the hardiest rocks have succumbed to the irresistible energy of human actions and scientific skill—it crosses the important navigable river at Conway, and the Menai Straits, by means of immense iron-tubes, at such an elevation as not to impede the progress of the largest vessels. It presents an extraordinary display of enterprise and wealth; so large an accumulation of the conquests of energy, and the constituent elements of riches, it may be safely said, was never before collected in the same compass. The whole line is a noble exemplification of art subjugating and triumphing over the opposition of natural difficulties. Its completion formed an epoch in the history and application of mechanical power. If only a few years ago it had been said that people could pass over the Menai Straits, without inconvenience and without danger, at the rate of from 30 to 40 miles per hour, the tale would have been treated as one of those visionary stories, which in former days were the amusements of the nursery.

Holyhead is the terminus of this extraordinary line—a line of great value to this place, effecting as it has done a rapid communication between this port and the eastern part of the county, as well as the manufacturing districts of Cheshire, Lancashire, and the North; while, uniting with other lines, a connexion is opened up with the Metropolis.

RAILWAY STATION.

The Holyhead Station is an extensive and commodious one, connected with which are Refreshment Rooms, with Waiting and Dressing Rooms attached, Telegraph Office and a well furnished Book Room, the whole fitted up on a most splendid scale, well arranged and in excellent order, and plentifully supplied with luxurious food. A table d’hote at the Refreshment Rooms on the arrival of the mail and express packets from Ireland, conducted by Mrs. Hibbert, late of Wolverton. In Mr. Massinberd, manager of the Railway Station, the traveller will meet with a gentleman anxious to give every information which even the most timorous and querulous may require to further his views, or quell his fears. The Railway Company have also erected a large cattle and luggage station on the pier. A new line of railroad has been constructed along the margin of the _traeth_, or sandy estuary, which forms the Harbour, extending nearly a mile from the Station to the Pier. Arrangements for the transit of goods and live stock between Ireland and England have been made. A steamer leaves the North Wall, Dublin, every evening; but the period has been so short that no opportunity has been afforded to ascertain its success; there is, however, every prospect of the traffic becoming a very important feature in the developement of this line, and certain to be productive of a large additional revenue to the company.

There are many distinguished men in the railway world, who have been accustomed for many years to look _afore_ and _aft_, who do not despair of seeing the Chester and Holyhead one of the most profitable, as it is one of the best officered, lines of railway in the kingdom; but we think that the government should take upon itself to cover the vast outlay which it caused in the erection of that wonder of the world, the Britannia Tubular Bridge—a NATIONAL CONVENIENCE.

It has been a cause of regret to thousands that the proposals for the erection of the Hotel in Britannia Park, the grounds of which are in rapid progress towards completion, have not been taken up with that warmth and spirit, which the zeal and penetration of S. M. Peto, Esq., M.P., Chairman of the Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, led him to consider desirable. It is to be hoped, however, that the vast expenditure already incurred will not be thrown away, and the property suffered again to become almost a waste, affording as it does the most beautiful prospects, and the most healthy and convenient positions in the neighbourhood, to which multitudes of wealthy families, carrying on business in the crowded cities of England, would be glad to retire, could sufficient accommodation be secured to them. In conclusion, we would respectfully urge upon the shareholders not to sacrifice their interests in an undertaking whose prospects are of a most cheering character, in parting with their shares at present prices.

General Manager for the Line, J. O. Binger, Esq., Chester.—Resident Engineer, H. Lee, Esq., C.E., Bangor.

DEPARTURE OF TRAINS.

Mail Train, 2 a.m., and 7 p.m. Express, 2 40 p.m. For the Ordinary Trains see Time Table.

STEAM PACKETS.

Ploughing the seas
’Gainst wind, and tide, and elemental strife.

HOLYHEAD derives its chief prosperity and consequence from being the Station of the Government Packets, which convey the London and other English mails to and from Ireland, to which it lies exactly opposite, and is the shortest and safest passage across St. George’s Channel; and now that the Railway is completed through to Chester, a new interest is awakened, and hopes entertained that the port will become one of the first importance to this remote peninsular of the kingdom. In addition to Her Majesty’s packets, there are regular steam vessels, in connection with the Railway Company, that sail from the harbour daily. These are splendid first class and fast sailing steam-ships; the fittings-up are of superior character, excellent tables are kept, stewards and stewardesses are most attentive, the crew are steady, sober, and experienced sailors, the commanders are true seamen, assiduous in the discharge of their highly responsible and arduous professional duties, civil and easy in address, intelligent in conversation, and most desirous to secure, by the best attention, the comfort and convenience of their passengers—these form an aggregate of all possible auxiliaries to the enjoyment of a swift and pleasant run of 4½ hours, which lands you on the Irish shores. These superb steamers dart boldly forward, like some ocean bird upon its wing, on their trip across the channel. There is something almost startling in looking intensely on that strange unconscious power which produces results of living motion, with a beauty, majesty, and rapidity of action, without any approach to violence or hurry; it is at such moments that the light of modern science appears almost too dazzling to the human eye. It is said that between Holyhead and Dublin no packet has been lost since the days of Queen Elizabeth. In 1652, a weekly postal communication was established between Dublin and England, by packet to Holyhead.

STEAM-PACKETS TO AND FROM IRELAND.

_Departure_.

_Mail Packets_—Every night, 1 o’clock. Morning, 6.

_Express_, _Company’s Packets_—Every evening, 6 o’clock (Sunday excepted).

_Luggage and Cattle Packet_—Every evening.

_Windermere_—To Liverpool, calling at Amlwch, every Thursday.

_Arrivals_.

_Mail Packets_—Every night, 12 30. Evening, 6.

_Express_, _Company’s Packets_—2 o’clock, p.m., (Sunday excepted). A Railway Train leaves Holyhead soon after the arrival of the Mail and Express Packets.

_Luggage and Cattle Packet_—Every morning.

_Windermere_—From Liverpool, every Wednesday.

HOTELS.

The “Royal Hotel” is conducted by Mr. and Mrs. Hibbert, and the “Castle Hotel” by Mr. and Mrs. Mc Vittie. At these hotels there is every comfort and convenience, whether for the invalid in hopes of renovated health, or the tourist delighting in creature comforts. They are replete with every requisite for the accommodation of visitors, and afford every inducement to persons desirous, by quietness, to enjoy a relaxation from the cares of business and the bustle of populous districts. Cleanliness, prompt attention, combined with moderate charges, are the characteristics of these establishments, and render them pleasant places for a short stay.

The Royal Hotel, which is contiguous to the Station, has undergone thorough alteration, and every care has been taken to adopt all modern improvements, with a view of securing to travellers and families every accommodation which a first-class hotel can afford. It is fitted up in a style of elegance which renders it one of the most complete establishments of the kind in the kingdom, and in every way suited for visitors of the highest grade of society; it is fit to accommodate Royalty itself, and we opine the day is not far distant when it will be honoured with such illustrious guests. It is presided over by Mrs. Hibbert, late of Wolverton Station, whose unwearied exertions are employed to secure her inmates, as far as possible, all that can be desired. Here are hot, cold, and shower baths; carriages, cars, post-horses, &c. Omnibuses to and from the Railway Station and Steam-packets, for the convenience of parties frequenting this hotel, _gratis_.

TRIPS BY SEA.

Many persons resort to aquatic excursions for health, recreation, and the gratification of a poetic taste; and we are happy to say that there are few places that afford better opportunities for trips by sea than Holyhead. Should the visitor desire a short voyage, he may be gratified; three or four miles will land him at _Trefadog_ (Madog’s House), or _Penrhyn_ (The Cape), on the opposite shore. Or he may have a nine miles sail to the Skerries, or Island of Seals, and thus give the good man of the rocks a proof that the sons of the soil cast a wishful look towards his solitary abode by day, as well as the sons of the ocean by night. Or he may have a four miles cruise to South Stack, glide by the New Harbour, and gaze upon the sublime grandeur of the bold promontory. (See page 45.) Should the tourist, however, wish to achieve such nautical wonders as to lose sight of his own dear land, and to be able to say to his friends on returning—“I have crossed the seas!” his wish may be fully realized. Walk to the Pier, tread the deck of one of our splendid steamers, and in 4½ hours you will be landed on the shores of Ireland, and inhale the bracing air of the far-famed Emerald Isle.

PENRHOS PARK.

This handsome mansion (about two miles from Holyhead) is embosomed in the wood, and is the residence of the Hon. Wm. Owen Stanley, M.P. for the city of Chester. The principal entrance faces the sea, of which it commands a very extensive view. About a quarter of a mile east of Penrhos is Penrhyn, a cliff projecting into the sea, which has been the residence of the family of Owen for many centuries, who were descended from one of the five sons of Hwfa ap Cynddelw, Lord of Llifon in 1157, now represented by Lord Edisbury and the Hon. W. O. Stanley, sons of the late Lord Stanley, of Alderley. Hwfa was contemporary with Owen Gwynedd, one of the most celebrated princes of North Wales, who on more than one occasion gave battle and completely routed the English army, under the personal command of Henry II. Hwfa founded one of the fifteen royal tribes of Wales; and his five sons inherited his princely property, extending from Aberffraw to Holyhead, and including a great part of the Island of Anglesey.

LADY STANLEY’S HOSPITALITY TO SHIPWRECKED SAILORS.

During the tremendous gales from the north, in January and February, 1802, the _Die Liebe_, a Dutch galliot, bound from Rotterdam to Ireland, and the _Brothers_, of Liverpool, were wrecked near Penrhos, the first at midnight, where the unfortunate sufferers found all the comfort and attention which beneficence, united to influence, can so happily bestow, under the hospitable roof of the late Lady Stanley.

Mr. Richard Llwyd, in his “Lines addressed to the Thrush, in the Garden at Penrhos,” alludes to this melancholy catastrophe,

A happier day, dear chorister, is thine,
A grave unhaunted by the tread of fear;
A little forest, free from kites and crime,
When music only meets thy listening ear,—

Save when the Demon of the boisterous North
Rushed through the gloom of night with sullen roar,
Led from destruction’s den the Furies forth,
To roll his dying victims on the shore.

’Twas thine amid the raging of the storm,
To see thy Stanley disappoint the grave;
Tread the dread beach in Charity’s mild form,
And bid her Penrhos ope’ its doors to save.

And thine as playful in these flow’ry glades,
To hear the prayer ascend to Mercy’s throne,
To hear from strangers, shelter’d in these shades,
The grateful blessings breath’d in tongues {59} unknown.

ST. BRIDE’S, OR TOWYN CHAPEL; AND THE ANCIENT TUMULUS.

Here friends and foes
Lie close, unmindful of their former feuds.

The name of _barrows_ is given to the artificial hills which were in ancient times very generally constructed to commemorate the mighty dead. Such hills are usually formed of earth, but sometimes of heaped stones. In the latter form, they are almost exclusively confined to Scotland, and are there called _cairns_. Barrows are found in almost every country, from America to the steppes of Tartary, and probably exhibit the earliest, and assuredly the grandest species of honorary burial; a humble relic of which we still retain in the mounds of earth over the graves of our churchyards. Assuming that the barrow indicates, in the matter of sepulture, the first step of man from the merely savage state, it does not seem to have been forsaken for monuments of greater art and delicacy until such further advances in civilization had been made as might be indicated to a careful inquirer by the alteration in the form or structure of the _tumulus_ itself, and still more by the contents which might be disinterred; for it was in all, except perhaps the very earliest instances, customary to bury with the dead their weapons, their ornaments, and other articles of value. In the barrows of the earliest period we might expect to find no more than the bones of the uncoffined and unurned barbarian with his arrow heads of flint; while those of a later period would furnish stone and earthen coffins, urns of metal and earthenware, spears, swords, shields, bracelets, beads, mirrors, combs, and even coins and cloths,—articles which are actually found in some _tumuli_, and most of them in those of this country.

The cairns, or carnedd, heaps of stones, are frequently mentioned in Scripture, and in every instance, when not accompanied with a pillar, we find them raised with the same object, namely, to cover the remains of those who died in crime, and whose memories it was intended to dishonour. Such were the heaps of stones raised over the remains of Achan, Absalom, and the King of Ai. Joshua vii. 25, 26—viii. 25. 2 Sam. xviii. 17 In Syria and Palestine it is still usual for one who passes such a heap to throw a stone on it, in order to express his detestation of the infamy commemorated, as well as to contribute to the maintenance or increase the size of the monument. In Scotland, too, in some parts, it was formerly, and perhaps still is common for a person to say to the offender, “Never mind, I shall throw a stone over your cairn yet.”

There are numerous cairns in Wales, many of which still bear distinctive names, such as _Carn Vadryn_ and _Carn Hendwll_. Allusion to these is made in the works of the earliest bards; for instance, Taliesin observes:—

Carawg will purchase
Wales abounding with _canerddau_.

It is said that in Druidic times the cairn was a species of monument awarded only to persons of distinction. The following passage on the subject occurs in the life of Gruffydd ab Cynan:—“Now the mountain on which the battle was fought, is called by the people of the country the _carn_ mountain, that is to say, the mountain of the _carnedd_; for in that place there is an immense _carnedd_ of stones, under which was buried a _champion_ in primitive ages of antiquity.” The cairn was of gradual growth, inasmuch as it was the custom for every passer by to fling an additional stone upon the common heap, out of reverence to the memory of the person who was interred underneath.

We are told however that when the practice of burying in churchyards became general, the cairn was condemned as fit only for great criminals. Hence the expression, “_carn or dy wyneb_” (may a cairn be upon thy face), when one wishes ill to another man. In this case travellers cast their stones out of detestation. Owing, therefore, to such a change of popular feeling in regard to the cairn, it would now be impossible, from its mere outward appearance, to conjecture the character of the person whom it covers. Moreover, the size would vary, not only according to the honour or disgrace with which the deceased was in his lifetime regarded, but also according to the situation of the grave itself, whether it was near a public road or not. It may be, however, that the position of the body, or form of the _cistvaen_ (stone chest), or some other interior arrangement, would prove a clue to the solution of this question.

Many of the cairns in this country have been opened, and generally found to contain undoubted evidence of human interment; and where this was not the case, their absence may be very reasonably accounted for by the supposition that the body was burned (as in the case of Achan), and the stones heaped over the ashes.

Upwards of one hundred years ago, Sir Nicholas Bailey opened a _carnedd_ at Plas Newydd, Anglesey. Supposing the mound a mere heap of rubbish, he began to level it; but when the workmen had opened the entrance into the large ruin, he ordered them to discontinue their operations, as it seemed to contain nothing but bones.

The mound or tumulus on which the remains of _Capel y Towyn_ (see page 6) stand, is evidently the cemetery of a vast number of persons. Some years ago, a coffin was discovered containing a skull, and the other principal bones of the human frame, quite perfect. Four or five other coffins were also found, all of which contained bones, in a good state of preservation. The coffins were constructed of rough stones, having sides, ends, lids, but no bottoms. The dates of these burials are not correctly determined, but they are of considerable antiquity.

A very interesting paper relative to this place, written by the Hon. W. O. Stanley, M.P. for the city of Chester, was read at the Archæological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland, in August, 1846, from which we make the following extract:—

“This ancient chapel is on the old London road, about two and a half
miles from Holyhead, situated close to the sea. Here is a great
mound, about 30 feet in height, being 750 in circumference at the
base. On the summit of this mound are seen the foundation walls of a
small chapel, which has given the name _Towyn y Capel_ (the Bay of
the Chapel) to the beautiful inlet upon the shore. This mound is
composed of sea sand, and contains a great number of graves, arranged
in four or five tiers, one above another, at intervals of about three
or four feet. The bodies were laid invariably with the feet
converging towards the centre of the mound, the head being towards
the outer side. It appears that no similar instance of interment in
graves formed indiscriminately, as it regards the point of the
compass towards which the feet of the corpse were laid, has yet been
noticed.”

CROMLECHS, OR DRUIDICAL ALTARS.

Who raised the wondrous pile? I asked and sighed,
And paused for a reply; but none replied.
Time passed me by, and answered with a frown,
Whoever raised it I will pull it down.

There is perhaps no subject on which antiquarians have more employed their learning and industry, on which their theories have been so fruitful, or their discussions so endless, as on the origin and history of those ancient stones generally denominated Druidical. But, who were the founders—when were they founded—and what was the immediate object of their foundation, are questions which at this period we cannot fully answer. At the same time the undoubted antiquity of these remains, the tolerably accurate glimpses of their original condition which the antiquarian writers afford us, and the very mystery in which they are enveloped, altogether make their study peculiarly attractive. But more than all this, there is one fact connected with these antique monuments, which renders them of very high interest indeed, and that is, their dispersion over every part of the world, bearing evidently a common impress of the ideas and habits of their founders, even in places so remote from each other as to make it appear impossible that there should have been any mutual intercourse in those ancient times. Monuments of large and rude stones, disposed in the forms known respectively in our country by the names of circles, cromlechs, kistvaens, and stones erect, are found extensively dispersed through Great Britain, Ireland, Jersey, Guernsey, Denmark, Sweden, France, Germany, Netherlands, Portugal, Malta, Gaza, Phœnicia, Malabar, Bombay, and other parts of India, Palestine, Persia, Northern Africa, North America, and in the Islands of the Indian Archipelago, and of the South Sea. What conclusions then can we draw from these phenomena, but that those common ideas and habits of which we have spoken must have existed prior to the dispersion of the great family of man, of which the Scriptures tell us? If the identity of the monuments known as Druidical in this country with those existing in Palestine and other parts mentioned in the sacred writings be acknowledged, this important result follows:—that whilst, on the one hand, “the form of existing monuments illustrates the form of those mentioned in Scripture;” on the other, “the uses of those described in Scripture illustrates the uses of those now existing.” The Sacred Scriptures furnish us with many indications as to the use of the altar and circle of stones. (Gen. xx. 24, 25, Josh. v. 5–7, 1 Sam. vii. 16, 17–x. 8.)

The general opinion is that the cromlechs were altars on which the priests offered their dreadful sacrifices. On this subject Cæsar has the following remarks:—“The whole nation of the Gauls, (whom Cæsar describes as imitators of those of Britain, and as deriving from the latter their customs) is much addicted to religious observances, and on that account, those who are attacked by any of the more serious diseases, and who are in danger of warfare, either offer human sacrifice or make a vow that they will offer them, and they employ the Druids to officiate at their sacrifices; for they consider that the favour of the immortal gods cannot be conciliated, unless the life of one man be offered up for that of another; they have sacrifices of the same kind appointed on behalf of the state.” To which we may add, that Tacitus, in his account of the Roman attack on the Isle of Anglesey, the then great stronghold of the British Druids, states—that “they held it right to smear their altars with the blood of their captives.” It is a striking corroboration of the theory that the cromlechs were the altars on which these dreadful sacrifices were performed, to find that in this very Isle of Anglesey are yet existing about thirty, among which are some of the largest and most magnificent our country possesses. It is well known that, at a very early period, this Island was the great school of Druidism—the chosen retreat and asylum of the Druidical Priests. No wonder, therefore, that travellers are particularly struck with the great absence of trees, having naturally enough supposed that the former scene of Druidical superstition, the horrors of which were carried on in the dark recesses of consecrated groves, would not be so bare and destitute of timber. Nor did Anglesey always wear this naked appearance. Classical authors tell us it formerly had its venerable woods and shady groves, and the ancient British appellation _Ynys Dywyll_, or the Shady Island, intimates the same fact; and bodies of trees are constantly met with in the pits from which the inhabitants get their peat.

Having made these remarks we shall now direct the attention of the tourist to the

TREFIGNETH CROMLECHI.

About a mile and a half from Holyhead, at Trefigneth (a house on the quagmire) farm, may be seen some relics of Druidical superstition, and remarkable monuments of the rude art of the Ancient Britons. They are what antiquarians call _cromlechi_. Two derivations have been given for the word cromlech: the one, “an inclining stone,” from the British word _crwm_, bowed, and _llech_, a broad, flat stone; and the other, “a devoted stone or altar,” from the Hebrew _cœrœm-luach_,—the first part expressing the appearance of the upper or principal stone of the cromlech; the second, the horrible use to which, there is good reason to believe, it was put. The stones referred to are called by the Welsh, at this time, _Llechen Trevigneth_, i.e., Trevigneth flat stones; and the field they are in, _Cae’r Llechen_, flat stone field.

The writer visited these cromlechs on the 18th of February, 1853, and, assisted by a friend, measured some of the huge, unshapely stones. The western cromlech consists of 5 stones, four of which were undoubtedly uprights, but have fallen from their proper situation, and the table stone, with its flat face, reposes upon them. This superincumbent stone measures 12 feet long, including the piece broken off at the eastern end—it is 6 feet wide, and in some parts about 2 feet in diameter. One of the four stones is 10 feet long, by 4 wide, and about 10 feet in circumference. At the western end of this cromlech are three stones, but for what purpose they were originally used, I wot not.

The eastern cromlech consists of 8 stones, two of which are standing; one perpendicularly, the other in an oblique position—following the example of its companions, which have long since bowed beneath the weight or pressure of centuries;—these are 6 feet long, one of which is about 10 feet in circumference, the other 8. There is one reposing longitudinally, measuring 10 feet long, and 6 feet in circumference. The other three are of smaller dimensions. There are two table or superincumbent stones, one of which measures 10 feet long, by 6 wide; the other, 6 feet long, by 5 wide. When first constructed, this cromlech would have admitted a tall man to stand upright in it.

When I first approached these ruins, I felt that I was treading the sacred ground of ancient Britons; a longing to comprehend their origin came over me—a yearning to make out the dark enigma that for ages had puzzled the learned and the wise. While walking round these ancient relics, I felt somewhat astonished and bewildered. Awe, amazement, and solemnity, were as a load on my spirit, pressing heavily. I wished to know, but I was ignorant; I wished to admire, but I was awestruck.

Ages seem present; shadowy, giant forms,
And fantasies that throng the heated brain,
Are fluttering to and fro; unhallowed rites,
Obscene and cruel, and unearthly shapes,
Start into being.

Many remains have I gazed on with solemn feelings; but never do I remember such arresting, mysterious solemnity being excited within me by mouldering castle, abbey, church, or priory, as that which then oppressed me. It is strange, but these stones seem embued with the spirit of by-gone ages. There they are, monuments of antiquity—huge, grand, wonderful, incomprehensible! They over-awe you as they stand, gloomily questioning, as it were, your right to approach so near their sacred enclosure.

With these relics we cannot but associate the Druidical priests, who were the principal actors on all public occasions. The finger of time has long ceased to keep a calendar of their moments, or of their actions, and their dust has for ages mingled with the clods of the valley! Yet, here they once performed their idolatrous worship, and were held in great veneration by the people. Imagination takes the place of memory, and, influenced by the appalling gloom that pervades the spot, conjures up shapes of human victims reeking in sacrifice, while Druidic priests in their long white garments, the tiara, or sacred crown, their temples enwreathed with chaplets of oak-leaves, the magic wand in their hand, and on their heads a serpent’s egg, as an ensign of their order, and thus attired we see them going forth to sacrifice, sullen, cruel, implacable, standing round the crimson-stained altar, shrouded with superstition, mystery, and death.

The durability or antiquity of these extraordinary relics is calculated to excite emotions of astonishment and awe in the mind:—

These ancient stones, o’ergrown with bearded moss,
And by the melancholy skill of time
Moulded to beauty, charms the bosom more
Than the palaces of princes.

They must have weathered out more than 2000 years. It was about A.D. 60, and during the reign of Nero, the Roman Emperor, when _Suetonius Paulinus_, a distinguished Roman general, entered Anglesey, and cut down the groves, sacred to Druidic superstition, and placed a garrison among the conquered. And in A.D. 79, Titus Vespasian, the Roman Emperor, sent _Julius Agricola_, a general not less renowned for his military talents than for his wisdom and humanity; he arrived in Mona, or Anglesey, and permanently secured the various triumphs of the Romans. Thus the bloody rites of superstition, the most powerful that ever enchained the human mind, and after it had long established a boundless tyranny upon the ruins of human reason, was abolished throughout the island.

Their sacred Isle with solemn woods were crown’d,
Their woods are gone, dismantled lies the ground
Of holy Druids, once the reverend shrine.

It is therefore, obvious, that these cromlechs were erected long before the fatal slaughter by Suetonius; and it is nearly 1800 years since he gave a death-blow to the system.

This must be a deeply interesting spot to visit, at a time when the summer’s sun smiles on every object. As has been observed it was _winter_ when the writer visited the cromlechs; but even then the prospect was grand. Standing here you have a most commanding view in every direction, comprising, sea and land, mountain and plain, lake and river. The towering mountains of Carnarvonshire, like another world, ethereal, brilliant, transparent as crystal, appeared in the distance covered with snow, and presented a resemblance to the Alps; far above the rest, Snowdon lifted its patriarchal head so loftily, as if it meant not only to threaten, but to thrust it into the sky. The sun, hastening towards the western skies, threw his parting rays upon this Alpine range of mountains, gilding them so magnificently, that the writer and his accompanying friend were led to exclaim, “Winter has its beauties as well as summer.”

ANCIENT STONES OF MEMORIAL.

Stones or pillars were the earliest records of all great or highly interesting events. Covenants, important treaties or victories, the deaths of distinguished persons, or dearly beloved friends, the settled boundaries of estates, were all recorded in this simple, but for the time, no doubt, sufficient manner. The first historical notice bearing directly upon the subject is the scriptural mention of a stone set up by Jacob to commemorate his vision. (Gen. xxviii. 18.) The size of this stone was necessarily small, like perhaps, those ancient stones dispersed about our own country, three or four feet high, and whose history lies too far back even for the reach of tradition. We may also mention the stone set up by Joshua, under the oak of Shechem, a little before his death, when he made the Israelites once more solemnly renew their covenant with God. (Josh. xxiv. 26.) In the First Book of Samuel, chap. vi. 15, 18, a stone of great magnitude is referred to, and which was previously well known as the great stone of Abel. The solemn treaty of peace concluded between Jacob and Laban was marked by the erection of a rude pillar. (Gen. xxxi. 45.)

The custom of setting up large stones to commemorate victories, we find, from the sacred writings, was also in use among the Hebrews. The Ebenezer, or “stone of help,” set up by Samuel, is an instance of this nature. (1 Sam. vii. 12.) In the British Isles the custom appears to have been not only common, but to have continued down to a late period. Thus we find Malcolm, son of Kenneth, King of Scots, commemorating his victory over the Danes in this mode in 1008. Near Newbridge, in the county of Cork, Ireland, are three large stones set edgeways towards each other, which are said, by an incontrovertible tradition, to refer to a battle fought on the spot between Brian Boiruma, King of Munster, and the O’Mahonies of Carbery, assisted by the Danes, most of whom were slain.

With regard to sepulchral stones, we may observe, that when cases occurred with the Hebrews, that it became necessary to inter distinguished persons at a distance from the resting-places of their fathers, the rude pillar was then set up to mark the place. It was under circumstances of this nature that Jacob set up a stone over his beloved Rachel. (Gen. xxxv. 20.)—Among some of the nations of antiquity, the custom was very general; the Greeks, for instance, had for ages no other funeral monuments than a rough unhewn stone, set upon the top of a tumulus. In the “Iliad” we find Paris, whilst in the act of using the bow against the enemy, bending behind the pillar placed on the tumulus that contained the ashes of Ilus, the son of Dardanus, the ancient king of Troy. Minutely corresponding with this monument is the one at Castle More, near Tullagh, Ireland. It consists of a tumulus 30 feet in perpendicular height, with a square stone on the top, about 5 feet in height. We have one positive and interesting case on record of the erection of a vast monument of this kind. Harold, the son of Gormon, employed his whole army to draw a stone of enormous size from the shores of Jutland, to be placed over the grave of his mother. We may observe that our own churchyards, to this day, present but a modification of the usages we have described—in the mound and headstone we still see the tumulus and pillar of ancient times. To this origin, doubtless, may be referred many, if not all, of the large stones isolated from Druidical remains, and dispersed in different parts of the county.

The _maen hir_, or long stone, is very common in this Island. There is nothing, however, in its name which would indicate its original use, or the object for which it was raised, unless, indeed, we give the word _hir_, the sense of longing or regret, as being the root of _hiraeth_; in that case it might imply that the stone was a memorial of the dead. There is no doubt that, in some instances, it was used as a monument to point out the grave of a particular person.

Thus an extract from an old document is inserted by Mr. Price in his “Hanes Cymru,” (History of Wales) to the following effect:—“The _Meini Hirion_ (long stones) of _Maes Mawr_ (of the Great Plain.) There is a spot on the mountain between Yale and Ystrad Alun, above Rhyd-y-Gyfartha, called the Great Plain, where occurred the battle between Meilyr ab — and Beli ab Benlli Gawr, and where Beli was slain; and Meirion erected two stones, one at each end of the grave, which remained until the last forty years. It was then that a “tasteless” person, owner of the piece of land, which had been enclosed, where the grave and stones were, came and pulled up the stones, and placed them over the pipe of a lime-kiln. There, in consequence of the intense heat and great weight, they broke. Whereupon he burnt them into lime in the kiln, though they had been there for many hundred years; and a bad end happened unto him who had thus defaced the grave of the deceased soldier, about which the bard, in the “Stanzas of the Graves,” sang this triplet:—

Whose is the grave in the Great Plain?
Proud was his hand on the weapon of war—
It is the grave of Beli the son of Benlli Gawr!”

There are several of these monumental stones in the immediate neighbourhood of Holyhead, and though their history is unknown, I have not a doubt on my mind but they were originally erected as _memorial stones_, to point out the grave of some distinguished person or persons, or as monuments to commemorate some signal victory.

About a mile from Holyhead, on the way to Trefigneth cromlechi, on the right hand, in a field called _Cae’r Garreg_ (stone field), stands a memorial stone, 8 feet long, and 10 feet in circumference at the base, tapering to about 5 feet. On leaving this stone, and just before you reach Trefigneth, opposite a cow-shed, under the left-hand wall, a _cist faen_, or stone coffin, was found some time ago, containing a human skeleton. About half a mile further, near _Trefarthur_ (the abode of Arthur), in a field on the right hand, called _Caynyodd_, are two stones, one erect, about 5 feet in length, and 13 in circumference, and the other, reposing on the ground, nearly 8 feet long.

About a mile and a half to the west of Holyhead, at _Plas_ farm, in the occupation of O. Owen, Esq., are two large stones. The western one is 10 feet long, 6½ feet in circumference, tapering to about 4 feet. The northern stone is 10 feet long, 6½ feet in circumference, tapering to about 5 feet.

BOUNDARY STONES.

The use of stones erect, for marking boundaries, must be very ancient; perhaps, indeed, this was one of the earliest purposes to which such rude monuments were applied. An interesting notice of this custom is given in the “Iliad,” where Homer, speaking of the great stone thrown by Minerva at Mars, says, as King renders the passage, that “she retreating, seized in her strong hand a stone lying in the field—black, rough, and vast—which men in former times had placed as a boundary of cultivated land.” How long and how effectually this custom existed, Olaus Magnaus, archbishop of Upsal and metropolitan of Sweden, speaking of his own parts, about the middle of the seventeenth century, bears testimony with justifiable pride:—“There are also high stones, by the aspect and signature whereof the ancient possessions of provinces, governments, forts, communities of noble and country men, are suffered to continue to every man in peace, without laws, suits, or arbitration, giving an example to other nations, that among these nations there is more right to be found in these stones that are boundaries than elsewhere in the large volumes of laws, where men think themselves to be more learned and civil.”

Stringent laws were given by Moses to the Jewish nation in reference to these boundary marks. “Thou shalt not remove thy neighbour’s landmark, which they of old time have set in thine inheritance.” (Deut. xix. 14.) “Remove not the ancient landmark which thy fathers have set.” (Prov. xxii. 28.) Job complained that some in his day removed the landmarks (chap, xxiv. ver. 2). Every one will remember the fearful denunciation in the book of Deuteronomy,—“Cursed be he that removeth his neighbour’s landmark. And all the people shall say, Amen,” (chap, xxvii. ver. 17). In Hosea we have the following strong language, which shews in what light Jehovah viewed this sin:—“The princes of Judah were like them that remove the bound: therefore will I pour out my wrath upon them like water,” (chap. v. ver. 10).

The “_maen terfyn_,” i.e., the boundary stone of the Ancient Britons, is considered to be very common in this Island, the removal of which was punishable with death. _Maen terfyn_ was not to be removed, according to the laws of Dyvnwal Moelmud, under pain of death:—“There are three stones, which if any man remove, he shall be indicted as a thief: the _boundary stone_; _maen gwyn_ (sacred stone), of the convention, and the guide stone; and he that destroys them shall forfeit his life (or be guilty of capital offence).” In reference to this stone another triad remarks:—“It is ordered and established, for the purpose of preventing the uncertainty of a claim, that the Bards shall keep an orderly record of pedigrees, nobility, and inheritances. For the same purpose also is the memorial of the back-fire stones, the _maen terfyn_ (boundary stone), and the horse-block, that he that removes them offers an insult to the Court and the Judges.” These passages will forcibly remind our readers of the penalty in the law of Moses above quoted. Whenever we hear of ancestral domains terminating here and there at some particular stones of notoriety, as is frequently the case, we may fairly presume that such stones are some of the old _meini terfyn_ (boundary stones) of the Welsh laws.

On the right hand of the road, in a corner of the field before you reach Plas farm, is a stone measuring 4 feet high, by 5 wide, and about 12 feet in circumference. I consider this stone a perfect relic of what our ancestors denominated _maen terfyn_, or the boundary stone.

And now, courteous reader, farewell! may you enjoy your visit to this interesting locality: but it is high time that the writer of these pages fixed his boundary mark.—FINIS.

* * * * *

* * * * *

ERRATUM.

Omitted in the list of Agents, page 15,—_Chester and Holyhead Steam Packet Office_.—_Superintendent_—Capt. Hirst. {71}

* * * * *

* * * * *

PRINTED BY A. R. MARTIN, AT THE ‘NORTH WALES CHRONICLE,’
GENERAL PRINTING OFFICE AND STATIONERY ESTABLISHMENT,
CAXTON HOUSE, BANGOR.

* * * * *

ADVERTISEMENTS.

THOMAS ROBERTS, BRITANNIA BRIDGE REFRESHMENT ROOMS.

The above Rooms are pleasantly situated at the West end of the celebrated BRITANNIA PARK, in full view of the Great TUBULAR BRIDGE, and two minutes’ walk from the Railway Station. Parties desirous of viewing the beauties of the MENAI STRAITS, the romantic appearance of the SNOWDONIAN range, and the wonderful works of art in the neighbourhood, may at these Rooms obtain every accommodation at reasonable charges.

BREAKFASTS, DINNERS, TEAS, ETC.

ON THE SHORTEST NOTICE,

WINES AND SPIRITS

OF FIRST-RATE QUALITY,

WELL-AIRED BEDS,

EXCELLENT

BATHING ACCOMMODATION,

Boats always in readiness; Steamers to and from Liverpool daily; Trains to Chester and Holyhead and the intermediate Stations, several times a day.

* * * * *

THE NEW LONDON HOUSE, MARKET STREET, HOLYHEAD.

PROPRIETOR,

ROBERT EVANS.

* * * * *

ESTABLISHED FOR THE SALE OF THE BEST

DESCRIPTION OF

DRAPERY GOODS,

AT MODERATE CHARGES.

The early production of novelties, the style of the Goods, combined with moderate charges, have gained for this Establishment such extensive patronage, that the proprietor is enabled to sell a better article at a lower price than is generally charged. All Goods marked in plain figures. Mourning to any extent executed on the shortest possible notice.

* * * * *

BONNET, SHAWL, CLOAK, FUR AND FANCY
ROOMS, UP STAIRS.

* * * * *

BANGOR, NORTH WALES.

THOMAS NAYLOR’S BRITISH HOTEL,

COMMERCIAL HOUSE AND REFRESHMENT ROOMS,

(TWO MINUTES WALK FROM THE RAILWAY STATION.)

In returning his thanks for the decided preference and support which this Establishment has received since its opening, the Proprietor takes this opportunity of respectfully announcing to his numerous Patrons and the Public, that he has recently added considerably to the extent of his accommodation, and begs to assure them that he is determined to use the most unremitting attention to make his Hotel as comfortable as possible to all those who may favor him with their patronage.

* * * * *

CLEANLY AND WELL-AIRED BED ROOMS,
COMMODIOUS COFFEE ROOMS,

AND

PRIVATE ROOMS FOR FAMILIES,

_Fitted up with every attention to comfort and cleanliness_.

NB.—CARS AT THE STATION FROM THE BRITISH HOTEL TO WAIT
THE ARRIVAL OF EVERY TRAIN.

* * * * *

HEALTH FOR A SHILLING!

HOLLOWAY’S PILLS.

A DANGEROUS LIVER COMPLAINT AND SPASMS IN THE STOMACH EFFECTUALLY CURED.

_Copy of a Letter from Mr. Bostock_, _Druggist_, _of Ashton under Lyne_,
_dated July_ 31, 1852.

To Professor Holloway,