Chapter IV

Summer Trip Through the South--Indian Agencies--Canadian
River--Lion Fight--Red River--Double Mountain--Staked Plains--Pecos
River--Indian Skirmish--Santa Fe, New Mexico--Return to the
Arkansas Valley--Description of the Plains--Mirage--Dangers of the
Prairie--Wild Horses and How Captured--Creasing Animals.

When the April sun of 1878 was high in the heavens, we bid farewell to our valley friends and wound merrily down the river. The _green grass_ had begun to show itself, and the valley was _lovely_; and the little birds sported and sung in the bushes and little trees along the river-banks. As the houses became more and more numerous, we began to realize that we were going _east_ to where _somebody lived_. Following the river on down, we passed through the _Creek_ and _Cherokee_ agencies, and also the _Chocktaw_ country, and were very much interested in our Indian observations. The _Cherokees_ are far advanced in civilization, and are _by far_ the most intelligent tribe.

They have _school-houses_, and _churches_, and pretty villages; and some have carpet upon their floors. They appear to _enjoy_ their new mode of living, and take pride in their pretty homes. I may also state that there are some very _pretty girls_ among them. All the agency lands that we passed through were the best that the sun ever warmed. Though Uncle Sam reaches forth his bountiful hand whenever the weakest red man asks, most of the tribes appear restless; and though there is much game in the territory, and notwithstanding that they are let out of the agency once a year to hunt over the wide wild country, their eyes are restless, their faces itch for the war-paint, and they long to sally forth beneath the white-eagle plume, to ring the valleys with their wild war-whoop, and wash the hatchet in the white man’s blood. The farming implements furnished them are left to rust, and they indolently exist upon the nation’s bounty.

Every Indian nation in the United States to-day, who will _receive_ them, have _beautiful_ reservations, which are the very _gardens of the Union_; and their every want is most _bounteously_ supplied. The only tribes that are to-day _suffering_ are those who will not _receive_ from the hand of plenty. But in _spite_ of all this, there are some of the tribes breaking from their agencies every few months and committing their bloody outrages, which boil a human’s blood; and the _clemency_ of the Government is exhibited by its capturing the murderers and placing them back upon their homes, giving them new blankets and rifles, and telling them not to do so again,--_sometimes_ giving them a _trial_, but rarely giving them the _deserved penalty_. Persons seated in their comfortable _mansions_ in the land from whence savagedom has long since been driven, and where the protecting arm of _civilization_ is thrown around them, are prone to speak of the _poor Indian_ eking out a miserable livelihood from the western deserts and barren mountains, and continually persecuted and provoked by the cruel _white man_, only waiting for an opportunity to kill them off. _Oh, fie!_ Go see what _I_ have seen, and learn the _truth_, and your sympathies will be banished by _bitter scorn_. Go see the poor emigrant, who has taken his little family to a new home in the sundown land, shot down at his labor and scalped in the furrow, his dear wife and innocent babes _crushed with the hatchet_, their blood spilled upon the cabin floor, and their brains spattered against the wall. Go

experience realities, and have your all and dearest on earth torn from you, and hear their heart-rending cries as they are carried off by savage demons, and see how the red devils can _mock mercy_ and torture _helpless innocence_; and if the fire within your bosom does not kindle and you do not say that the devils _have it only too good_, there must be little soul within. God knows that _I_ would be the last to mention _violence_; but I have seen decency outraged and sweet infancy tortured, and have witnessed _so many sickening sights_ that my blood boils whenever I think of them and my right arm twitches for vengeance. The first tribe that starts a war should be made _an example_ of, and the last wretch laid low; then outbreaks would be fewer. As it is, there is continually trouble all along the frontier, and no man is safe. If the Government would only empower a company of _cow-boys_ and _hunters_ to pursue them when out on the war-path, there would be less damage and severer _reprimands_; but until the soldiers capture them, with their blue ribbon and military maneuvers, the devils have done all the mischief they want to do and are ready to surrender.

The Indians all _appear friendly_; but a chance is all that is wanted to place your scalp bleeding upon a pole while they sing their bloody songs around it. It is their nature.

“And as long as his skin is rough and red,
His cruel heart is the devil’s bed.”

We followed the river to its junction with the Canadian. This is a most splendid country. Here God again does the raining, and no irrigation is needed. The agencies are the same. We then concluded to go up the Canadian to the west. It was not long, however, until we had left the rich farming country and were again upon the dry, sandy wilderness. The country for some distance upon either side of the river is intensely rough, rocky, barren, and sandy. Great herds of cattle range along the river and up and down all its tributaries. As we went to the west trees grew few and scrubby and dwarf-bushes grew among the rocks and bluffs, and little streams of clear water came tumbling down over the rocks from the springs away under the barren hills. We often thought of the mountains as we wound along, and we thought we must be near the jumping-off place. We killed several deer and antelopes among the hills, and saw some strange-looking tracks in the sand at the water.

Early one pretty morning, as we were strolling up the ravines in search of game, I noticed Charles stop suddenly, and dropping behind a rock he beckoned me to him. He pointed up the river to where some bushes were shaking; and crawling closer, by the aid of our glass we found it to be a large lion feasting upon the carcass of a deer. We crept away, and after gathering the other boys we held a council and determined to _tackle_ him, let come what would. We cautiously crept along under rocks and brush until we were within one hundred and fifty yards of him, when he _spied_ us, and uttering a loud roar, crouched low upon his prey. Now was our time; so, resting my rifle upon a rock, I deliberately fired. He was almost hidden in the brush, and I struck him in the shoulder. He uttered a terrible roar, and bounded toward us with his shattered blade. We had shrunk from the lion _behind the bars_; but, my Lord, here we were in the same _cage_ with him, and no chance to shrink. I tell you, a lion can jump like _thunder_ with _three legs_; and he came directly at _me_. The boys were flanked upon either side, and they were to reserve their loads until he was near enough to be sure. I waited until I could see his eyes bat, and he was about to make his last spring, and then pulled; but, great God! the cartridge failed. I dodged behind a large rock, and as he sprung down over my head, with his powerful paws extended and his great claws protruding like bayonets, his low growl sounded like the voice of hell; and though things looked a little _cloudy_, I never conceded for _one moment_ that I was ever created for lion-meat. The blood-hound sprung forward and sunk his huge teeth into his hind leg; but he was no more to the infuriated animal than a gad-fly would be to a buffalo, and before I could shove a new cartridge home he was again crouched to spring, when the boys rushed forward, and, with the muzzles of their rifles so close that the hair was singed, sent three well-directed balls grinding through his body. The shots all went near the heart, and he never arose from the earth, but rolled over upon his side, and with a low, gurgling groan, trembled and died. It was _sport_, _all through_; but I enjoyed _this stage_ of the proceedings better than any other. As he lay there, with his nine feet of power stretched upon the sand so closely to me that I could feel his dying-breath and touch his shaggy mane, I felt happy that he was dead. He was nine feet in length, and was the most powerful lion we had ever seen. Some of his teeth were two inches long; and after looking carefully at the huge mouth and powerful jaws, I concluded that I was at one time nearer being lion-meat than I had before believed. The blood-hound stood proudly by, wagging his tail as though waiting for the praise for killing him. Poor fool! He was not as much as a gray-back in the folds of the shirt of a professional tramp. I felt very glad that I did not tackle the animal alone. We carefully examined every cartridge we had. Charles said if I could have caught the tail I might have gone to thunder and fought my own battle, like he did with the buffalo. We looked carefully around that day, expecting to find the mate; but we saw no more, and the next morning journeyed on.

When we were about the center of the territory we struck south for the Red River, which bounds the territory on the south. We struck the Washita River, Wild Horse Creek, and many other small streams, finding many cattle along every water, and game in all directions. Great herds of buffaloes were daily seen heading to the north. There being plenty of good water all along the route from the Canadian to the Red River, the journey was a _pleasant_ one. The country of the Red River was rough as the Canadian, and was good for naught but raising stock. We left the Red River and went down the Big Washita; and then on to the Brazos, and down its head-waters to the Double Mountain, Texas, which we had been told was the range of the main buffalo-herd of the south. The story was certainly correct, for they were here by the thousands; and not being nearly so wild as where we had hunted, it was no more to shoot a buffalo here than to kill a cow. The country was rough, and destitute of all but short grass; and though there were _cattle here_, they were not nearly so numerous as at _other places_ where we had been. There was a little ranch now and then stuck in among the rocks--and one man stays in each; but they carry their lives in a _holy pocket_ every day and night. They have become somewhat _reconciled_ to this hermit-life, and do not give the danger its full weight. This is about as _wild_ a country as lies within the borders of our _Union_; and if a person had the material, and were prepared, he could make crooked whisky here without molestation by the authorities.

We were now prepared to cross the _staked plains_, which had been reported to us as a broad, dry, and barren country; that it required several days’ journey to cross, upon which many persons had perished, and where, several years ago, a whole company of soldiers had been led by the Indians whom they were pursuing, and there became bewildered and died in this waterless region. We filled our barrel and three skins with water from a cool, crystal spring that bubbled from beneath a rock and headed the Colorado River, and steered due west for the Rio Pecos in New Mexico. The first night out we camped upon a dry, barren plain, level as a floor, and almost destitute of grass, all animation having disappeared. We traveled beneath the burning sun; and resting at night upon the broad couch of nature, we breathed the light, warm air. It was all the same in any direction, with no object to obstruct the vision, and not one cloud to dim the splendor of the setting sun. On the eve of the third day out our attention was attracted to some white objects upon the prairie ahead, and which, upon coming up, we found to be the skeletons of four men bleaching in the sun. The _thirsty reptile_ had doubtless _strangled_ them; and as we stood gazing upon the whitened forms, we thought of the agonies of that last hour. They must have lain there for some years, for there was not even a vestige of else but the bones. They had undoubtedly cast away everything to hurry on; and when the weakest fainted, the others in their delirium sunk by his side, all determined to soar upon the same wings to the land beyond, where the crystal fountains are flowing freely.

The weather being so warm and the air so dry, our horses required _much water_; and though we could somewhat gauge _ourselves_, we were compelled to give them what they wanted. We were just as saving, however, as we _dared_ be, and upon the morning of the fifth day out we tapped the last skin and the last water. This was just like mother’s bread. When the flour is all gone and the horses have the epizooty so that no one can go to the mill, and the _boys_ once find out the _facts_ in the case, the last loaf is saturated with _honey_, and every one can make a meal upon _bread_ and _coffee_. We stretched this out until noon on the _sixth day_, when there was but one gallon left, and that almost warm enough to cook eggs. Morning dawned, and the sun rolling from the horizon in all its grandeur had to us little attraction. Things began to look badly. Six days upon a plain level as a floor and dry as the internal regions, and not an object yet in sight, I tell you is a bad report. We had long been out of _corn_; and the grass being so scarce our horses were pretty well gaunted, and now no water. How long would they hold out? Just before we hooked up I took the field-glass and from the wagon surveyed the surroundings. Looking carefully to the west I saw broken country. Oh, joy! And when I spoke the boys shouted aloud. We knew that we were now safe, and we would sleep that night by the purple stream. The hills were a great way off, and if the horses could have known, as we did, that just ahead gurgled the life-giving stream, we would have spanned the journey in half the time. However, when within about a mile of the hills they appeared to smell water, and pointing their ears they sped hastily along. But in spite of our eagerness we came among the hills by the moonbeam’s misty light. There was the stream, rippling clear and cool; and it is needless to say that was to us a merry night. We sat up all night talking of the dangers of the country, and contrasting the might of the _roaring lion_ with the power of the _quiet monster_, _thirst_.

In the morning we took our rifles and started among the hills to get some _meat_ for breakfast. We were not out long before Dave’s rifle rung out sharply in the still morning air. Going to him, we found him with a large buck deer; and we had a splendid venison roast for breakfast. The country was very rough, and hung upon the edge of the plain like a great ruffle, and to the west tossing higher and higher. There were a few _buffaloes_ here also. We stayed in this camp several days, living upon the best of meat, and recruiting our horses upon the rich grass of the valley. There were also a few _cattle_ straggling along the river; and they were wilder than the _buffaloes_. We at length moved up the river and came among some dwarf timber; and to sit in the shade of these little trees was more pleasant to us than any other period of our lives. The _wolves_ were very _numerous_ here; and we were compelled to sleep by the fire every night to keep our clothes from being torn by these foul-mouthed creatures, who would howl within the very limits of our camp, and terrify our horses so that we had to tie them to trees with double ropes.

It is somewhat amusing to see them capture their game--sometimes taking down a large buffalo bull or even a wild horse. If the game is in a flock or herd, they cautiously surround it, and gradually round them up to close quarters. If they are antelope or deer, as they break through the guard several are usually captured; but if they are buffaloes, they watch for a calf to come to the outside of the bunch, and pop! they have him. Sometimes as many as twenty wolves surround a herd; and to see with what cuteness and tact they execute their work is interesting in the extreme. When they are very hungry they will tackle most any animal. They sport carelessly around until he is off his guard, and then dash upon him; and while some run at the head, the main aim is to cut the ham-string. I have seen large bulls disabled in this way and at the entire mercy of a pack of hungry wolves, who sometimes tear their satisfaction from the living animal and leave him struggling in his agonies. Their teeth are sharp and their jaws are like vices; and they sometimes snap a large piece out of an animal, and then let him run away.

New Mexico is noted for its _poisonous reptiles_ and _insects_, such as rattlesnakes, scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, etc., and finding them creeping upon most every hill-side, we were compelled to be very _careful_ lest we should tramp, sit, or lie upon some destructive stinger.

We had _two beds_, and John and myself slept together. One lovely moonlight night, after we had all retired, and my mind was resting upon the border of slumber, I was startled by John uttering a war-whoop and leaving the bed in a single leap. Being about half asleep, and thinking that perhaps the _devil_ was under the cover, I did not take _time_ to _rise_, but started to _roll_; and being near the bank of a little stream that emptied into the river, I never stopped rolling until I splashed into the water. I was then thoroughly awakened, and felt as though I was not afraid of the devil if he were there. The rest of the boys came to the rescue with their colors flying, and pulling off the covers we found two large _rattlesnakes_ on John’s side of the bed. They were swelled with rage and rattled furiously. We had never known them to crawl into a _bed_. After killing them, we moved the bed and found a hole in the ground under it. We then concluded that they were out when we lay down, and in trying to find the way back they got into the bed; and John hearing the rattle left the bed just as the reptile was ready to strike. We were always careful after that never to build upon another’s homestead.

The _centipede_ is a brown-colored worm of about the thickness of a lead-pencil, and three inches in length when _full grown_. It has a great number of legs, and at the end of each a little black needle which is worked in and out at pleasure like a cat’s claw. _These_ are the _stings_, and whenever the worm is _crossed_ it sinks them. The venom from the rattlesnake is not to be compared with its effect. When they are found upon the body, the only _safe_ way is to be _perfectly motionless_, and not _disturb_ them, and they will often crawl harmlessly away; but should the person _move_ or _excite_ them, they will sink their deadly claws and run across the person rapidly, and beyond all remedy the flesh will rot to the bone in a short time. I _once_ saw the _effect_ of a _sting_. We were one sunny day sitting with some greasers upon the shady side of an _adobe_ house near Santa Fe, when a large _centipede_ dropped from the roof of the house down upon the naked breast of one of them. He struck at it and tried to knock it off quickly as possible; but in spite of his efforts it ran clear across his body, and in a few hours he died with his body terribly swelled. They are regarded the most deadly of all animals or insects in the West; and for the benefit of my _readers_ who may sometime journey in their land, I would advise and pray that should one of these stingers get upon your body, be careful to not disturb it, for the _danger_ is utter ruin.

The _tarantula_ is a very large _spider_, with large, strong legs, and can jump four or five feet. It _bites_ instead of _stings_; and though its bite is not _deadly_ like the centipede’s, it is nevertheless very _painful_, and swells the parts fearfully, _sometimes_ resulting in death. They are a _peaceful_ insect; but when _tormented_ they become very angry, and will jump at their enemy in great fury. These two insects are very numerous in New Mexico, and it is very dangerous to sleep on the ground; and citizens are all the time cautious.

While speaking of poisonous _animals_ and _insects_, I might also mention that the _skunk_ out here is _also_ very dangerous. They will come to your _bed_ at _night_ and bite you; and the bite has never been known to fail to produce _hydrophobia_. It is a question much discussed whether it is the effect of the _general_ skunk-bite, or whether there are just _certain ones_ which are _themselves_ afflicted with hydrophobia. The general _opinion_ is, however, that any skunk’s bite will produce the effect. The subject acts just as though bitten by a mad-dog, and it is said that there is no remedy when once bitten. I saw a man by the name of Jones, in Texas, die in the most horrible agony from a skunk-bite he had received away up in Nebraska eighteen months before. These skunks are in appearance like our eastern skunks; but whether they are equally _poisonous_ I do not know. The cow-boys are always on the alert for skunks.

We moved on up the river; and one evening as I rode down a deep ravine a half mile north of camp I discovered smoke arising out of a deep gulch just below. I recognized it as an _Indian_ fire. I tied my pony to a bush in a deep hollow and cautiously crawled down upon the camp. I got within about three hundred yards of them, and peeping out from behind a bluff I saw four Indians, who, from their dress, I recognized to be _Kiawas_, from the pan-handle country. Two were smoking their pipes, and the other two were broiling meat upon a stick before a little fire; and just below them were twelve good ponies grazing in the ravine. Knowing the _Kiawas_ to be _horse-thieves_, and finding them here under such _suspicious circumstances_, I concluded that they had been out _stealing_ and were just returning with their booty. Creeping cautiously away, I got my pony and rode off to camp; and after informing the boys of what I had seen, we concluded to rescue the ponies from their red captors. So, just after twilight we moved quietly upon the camp--John and myself upon ponies, and Dave and Charles on foot. When we were within a hundred yards of the camp and, unnoticed, we halted and took a careful survey of the ground. A cool wind had sprung up that evening, and by a bright little fire lay the four bodies in blankets, while fifty yards below grazed the twelve hobbled ponies in the bright moonlight. Their front feet were tied closely together with ropes, and they were compelled to step very short. Our plans were formed as follows: We would open upon them with four rifle shots; and while the footmen kept up the fire, the horsemen were to leave with them their rifles, and with six-shooters in hand dash between the camp and the ponies, and with wild whoops run off the horses. Whang! went the rifles, and away we flew toward the camp. Two of the Indians did not appear to wake up; but the other two sprung from the fire like _wild deer_. We ran upon the herd shouting and yelling, and the boys keeping a brisk fire all the while. The horses were so frightened that they jumped with both front feet together, and moved off down the ravine pretty rapidly. After running them about a half mile we ceased our noise, and the ponies slackened. Then we rode among them and dismounted to cut the hobbles, knowing the necessity of taking all or run the risk of being overtaken. It was to be quick work, for the two Indians who woke up were sure to come for the horses as quickly as possible. We had cut the hobbles of _eleven_, and had them roped together; but one pretty dark horse had run off down a gulch. John held the captives and I ran off to get the other. He was pretty wild, and I followed him about a quarter of a mile before I could get to him. At length he became quiet, and going up to him I cut the hobbles, and had just fastened it on his head when an Indian rushed from behind the bluff at my very side. Seeing me alone, I suppose he took me to be his comrade; and running up muttering something in the Kiawa tongue, he sprung upon the pony’s back. This was my opportunity, and seizing my six-shooter I struck him a furious blow in the face; and as he fell to the ground I mounted and rode off for John. I do not suppose the horse was ever _backed_ before; and instead of going _toward John_, he went in the other direction full bent. I had a rope through his mouth; but finding him unmanageable, and not having _time_ to _break colts_, I succeeded in checking him; and springing to the ground I shot him through the body and cut off his artery, and ran off on foot. As I went up the ravine I saw a person coming down, and springing to one side I crouched behind a rock. As he went by I saw it was the _Indian_ with his rifle in his hand. He passed within six feet of me; but I only wanted the _ponies_, and did not want to kill an Indian unless it was absolutely necessary for my own safety. After he had passed I ran on. I soon met Dave and Charles, who having heard the shot, supposed that I was in trouble and were coming to my assistance. We all went back to where I left John, but he was gone; and going on, we found him in camp, with the horses. We then moved out, and never halted until the sun was darting his bright rays upon us. We had been moving as rapidly and quietly as _possible_; but knowing that we would be _trailed_, we kept a mounted guard among the hills upon either side of the wagon, to keep from being surprised by the enemy, who might head us off.

The next evening we came to a trading-post called Alamo, on the Pecos bank; and about eight o’clock, as we were seated upon a bench in the post, four cow-boys rode up, and dismounting, walked in to the bar, with the bells jingling upon their spurs and their six-shooters dangling at their sides. They set their broad hats back upon their heads, and one big fellow, with his shirt open and his breast naked, called us all up and we drank together. They were not satisfied until we had taken several rounds; and though the drinks were _two bits_ apiece, they were as free as though they were but three cents. Knowing that it would not do to refuse to drink with _cow-boys_, when they ask, we drank with them, but touched it lightly. We talked and laughed together as though we were old friends; and at length they said they were out on a horse-hunt. They said that a few days before, as they were camped upon Salt Lake, fifty miles to the west, some Kiawa Indians had dashed into their camp, and, killing the cook, ran off twelve good ponies. They _described_ them and told the _brand_, and we were sure that we had the horses. We told them of our capture, and they recognized the ponies at sight. We told them that we had left two thieves sleeping by a little fire in a ravine fifty miles below, and had killed one stubborn pony. They said what we had done was well done; but it must be finished. They said they had been bothered a great deal with these Kiawa and Comanche devils, who constantly hung upon their range, shooting down every lone cow-boy and running off every horse they could get, and they had made up their minds to give them some of their own medicine. The next morning they rode off, bright and early, swearing that if they could be found the _other two_ would be sleeping by the fire _that night_. They insisted upon our going along; but it was not our _mission_ to _kill Indians_, and we refused. We were satisfied that if the story had been rightly told, our work had been rightly done; and we moved on up the river.

The country was very _rough_; but we kept along the river, and in a few days were in _Santa Fe_, the capital of New Mexico, and the terminus of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad. The town is located among the hills, and stage-roads are worn deep in several directions. The old, abandoned Santa Fe trail, which we had crossed so many times in our hunts, wound like a serpent down the hill-side into the town. It had been _some time_ since we had seen _frame houses_, and they appeared to us as grand as Roman cathedrals; and for several days we enjoyed the novelty of civilization very much. There were large _stock-yards_ here, and many thousand head are annually shipped from this place. Stock-raising and mining are all that can be done among these hills and bluffs.

We now steered due north and came into the valley of the Rio Grande del Norte. We found great herds of cattle here, feeding over this pretty, rich range; and there were many little ranches upon the banks of the river.

We then struck _north-east_, passing by the Fishery Peak and going up the Purgatory River to the Arkansas. We felt as though we were at _home_ when we stood upon the green bank of this river; and the settlers--especially the girls--with whom we had become acquainted prior to our going south, were apparently glad to see us back, and welcomed us to their little _adobe_ homes and rustic hospitalities.

It was now late in the month of September, and we concluded to go into some kind of business and stay in the valley that winter. We had now gone over a great territory of prairie; and the brief history of our travels has perhaps given the reader a faint idea of the nature of the country and the occupations of the people. But the _whole country_,--the climate, the inhabitants, and their occupations,--is so different from the states--as called by western men--that it is difficult, even with the most _minute description_, to conceive of the great country of the plains as it really _is_ without _visiting_ this curious land.

We have stated that we left the agricultural land in east Nebraska and Kansas, and that then before us stretched the historical plains--the fountain of mysteries and the land of secrets. Imagine a great country, consisting of many states and territories, and containing millions of acres, with not even the smallest tree or bush, but covered with _buffalo-grass_, which grows about six inches high and then curls up, forming a mattress about three inches thick. Through this mighty dry domain course the rivers as marked upon the map. The banks are _usually_--though not _always_--skirted with a light growth of cotton-wood trees; and the valleys are narrow, and fringed upon either side by great bluffs whose foot-hills usually roll some distance into the plain. Now, between these rivers there is very often a stretch of several hundred miles, and sometimes not a drop of water; but usually there is water to be found in drives of fifty and one hundred miles--sometimes closer and sometimes much farther. These little waters are very seldom _running streams_, but are small pools standing in deep gulches, and sometimes a little lake resting in a small bowl at the foot of a bluff. The country is always _rough_ where there is _water_; and old plainers can always tell when they are near it. The gulches that have water standing in them, like the rivers, usually have small _trees_ also. Now, between these waters the plain is generally almost as level as a floor; and standing there, the horizon looks perfectly round. Along the _waters_ the grass is thick and luxuriant, but gradually grows shorter as you leave; and the long, dry stretches are often very lightly covered. As you travel along over the level plains it appears as though there is a raise just ahead all the time; and where it looks level as a floor there are often great gulches which can not be seen until coming almost upon their very banks. Sometimes you will come into several miles of very soft sand, with hardly a spire of _grass_ upon it. Now, persons who _understand_ this country know just where the waters lie, and _prepare_ for the trip; and very often where another person would _perish_ they could find water in a few hundred yards under a rock at the foot of a hill.

There is much _mirage_ upon the plains, and it is much worse some days than others. It looks as though there were a pretty, _rolling river_, or sometimes a _large lake_, but a mile or so off. Nothing is _plainer_; and the imitation is so complete that old plainers are sometimes deceived in a country they do not know. It is caused from an unequal refraction of the lower stratums of the atmosphere; and when _animals_ are in it they are loomed up to twice their _natural_ height. An _antelope_ is often taken for a _buffalo_, and sometimes a bone or a buffalo-chip looks like an animal. Objects often appear inverted. To a tender-foot the deception is often so complete that many a poor, perishing person, in whose eyes were fast gathering the shades of death, exhausted his last efforts in trying to reach the _imaginary river_, and his last breaths were drawn in the belief that he was dying within sight of the cool, flowing waters. I had read many stirring stories of this country, and had often heard of the strange peculiarities to be witnessed and experienced here; but, though my _imaginings_ were _extensive_, I had never indulged in delusion sufficient to think of the country in anything near its reality. Ah! many a skeleton lies bleaching upon the hill-side, with no tomb-stone to tell its name or age nor any one to tell the secret of his death. I have often thought that if the Angel of Death would read to the world his _prairie record_ some of the accounts would swell the heart of the most calloused desperado and wring a tear from the wickedest eye.

The _legends_ of the plains are _numerous_, and persons who have never been here would naturally consider them _fabulous_, and the most gross _exaggerations_; but I know now, from experience, that the worst is reasonable. From the country being _all alike_, and no objects to guide the way,--no, not even a weed, or the smallest bush, or distinguishable hill or valley,--when persons once lose their way they are as completely lost as though they were as blind as a granite monument fifty miles from living man. It is somewhat _singular_, but it is a fact many times verified, that usually when persons lose their way in this country their _minds_ wander, and they do not even recognize their own camps when they come in sight of them. It appears that the average person is so _horrified_ at the thought of being lost and alone in a broad wild country, where the wild beast growls among the hills, and where the dry sands reflect perishment into their very eyes, and no one to direct their course, that the effect is natural.

A story is told of an outfit crossing over a dry prairie in the pan-handle country. The first night out from water a young man who had lately come from the states went out among the hills with his rifle to look for deer. He did not _know_ the _danger_, and unconsciously wandered a mile away. When the sun was getting low he turned for camp. It appeared to him as plainly as the hills before him, that to turn back was to go toward camp. So, turning to his left, he took down a ravine, still looking for game, and sure that he was near camp. On he went, and the sun sunk low in the horizon. Soon darkness veiled the day, and he was still out, and had walked many miles. He drew out his _compass_; but he did not know whether he was north, south, east, or west from camp, and thrilled with the thought of his probable condition, he became completely bewildered and walked rapidly all night. The camp was in a _deep ravine_, and the boys supposing their tender-foot companion to be _lost_, went to the top of a hill and built a large fire with buffalo-chips, and fired their guns and loudly hallooed; but all to no purpose. In the morning _search_ was made. The country was sandy and _lightly_ covered with _grass_, and he could be trailed. Two of the boys, well mounted, started in pursuit. They followed to the east about a mile, and then winding to the south about a mile and a half he made a complete circle of about two miles, and went around three times almost in the same tracks, and then started off zigzag to the west. About noon an object was seen seated upon the side of a hill in the distance, and hurrying up the lost John was found. He had become completely deranged, and had torn every vestige of clothing from his body, and was holding the compass in his hand. He was so completely bewildered that he did not even recognize his _own comrades_, and it was _several hours_ before his mind regained its equilibrium and he fully comprehended his position. He then said that it seemed as though camp must be near and could be readily found; but when he once became convinced that he was lost, he became so completely bewildered that the compass was no more use to him than a box without a needle. He said the hills and valleys all looked _alike_, and there was not a bush, or weed, or anything whatever to mark his course, much less a _neighbor to direct the way_.

This is only _one_ of _hundreds_ of cases; and I have heard of persons horribly _mutilating_ themselves in their mad agonies. The facts given are perfectly _credible_, for I have felt their force by experience. I recollect that one warm spring morning in south Colorado, the fog hung over the prairie like the mist upon the ocean, and a horse could be distinguished but a few hundred yards. I had stayed all night with some cow-boys on Bear Creek, and saddling my pony I started out among the bluffs to steer my way over the plain to our camp upon the Cimaron, thirty miles below. I had no _compass_ with me, but I had crossed the country so often that I thought it would be no trouble, even in the midst of the mighty fog, to grope my way. I had scarcely left the cotton-wood tops in the mist when I came to another creek. This seemed very strange, for I only knew of _one creek_ in the country; but not willing to believe that I was _again_ crossing _Bear Creek_, I kept pushing on. I saw some men camped in a ravine just below, and saw their _horses_ grazing among the hills; but I thought they must be _hunters_, and the creek must be one that I had not seen. I went on until I had crossed _six creeks_; and I made up my mind that there was something _wrong_, and that I must be circling my own camp on Bear Creek. I had lost the location of the _boys_ I saw awhile ago, and I rode down to the stream, and to _save my life_ I could not tell which way the _water_ ran. I dismounted and set my rifle on the ground, and before my left foot was removed from the stirrup the pony became frightened and dashed away. Losing my grip upon the horn I was jerked down, and the horse started off kicking down the creek. He dragged me about fifty yards, and I began to think it did not make much difference which way the water ran, when I succeeded in getting a square kick at the stirrup with my right foot, and _luckily_ out it came. The pony, now free, ran off down the creek. After following him about three miles, I came into the camp of an old hunter (Barney Gowe), whom I had not met for some months. My _pony_ stopped with _his_ horses and was easily captured. I then asked Barney where I _was_, and he thought I was codding him; but becoming _convinced_ of my situation he laughed heartily and told me to stay for dinner and the world would turn _right side up again_ after awhile. It was full two hours before all was _right_, and all at once the whole valley appeared natural. There were the little stone monuments upon the bluffs above to guide the hunter and cow-men, and which had _directed me_ many a time. The little trees, whose _very limbs_ I now recognized, looked as of old, and the little stream, as it rippled along, seemed to laugh at the strange conduct of its _old friend_. I was three miles below where I stayed _all night_; and I had been rounding my own camp four or five times, and did not recognize _it_ nor the _boys_. They said they _saw_ me going around and did not know what I meant. The next morning the fog had _cleared away_ and the trip was made without difficulty. I only mention these facts to more _fully picture_ in the imagination of the reader the country with its attending circumstances and peculiarities as it _really is_, and to warn those who read these lines that should they ever become bewildered and lost in this desert land to be calm, keep possession of their mind, and sit down until the country turns _around again_.

After explaining the nature of the country, the reader can now perhaps better understand the _sports_ and _occupations_ as they are hereinafter explained. There are often car-loads of _mustang ponies_ shipped to the states; and people wonder how they are captured--some supposing that they are caught with the _lasso_. I can say that there are _few_ wild horses caught with the _lariat_, and _they_ are only captured by the hunter hiding himself at the water and catching them as they come down to drink, or by taking advantage of the ground and making an angling run upon the herd and cutting them off. _Blooded horses_ have been brought to this country for this sport, and it has been found that the _fleetest horse_ can seldom succeed in bringing his rider to the side of a fully grown mustang. These animals are found in several of the western states and territories, along the waters of the wild lands. There are usually between _twenty_ and _fifty_ in a herd, but I have known _one hundred_ to be in a single herd. Each herd has a distinct range, usually about ten miles across, and which they can seldom be forced to leave. There are some very fine-looking animals in these wild gangs, and as they dash over the range their manes waive back over their rumps, and their tails spread gracefully after them. I saw a _Mexican_ capture a fine iron-gray stallion that (perhaps in scratching his head) had caught his hind foot in his long entangled mane.

Now they are _captured_ as _follows_: Of course, in each range there is _water_, and usually--as I have already said--where there is water there is some small timber; but should there be none upon the range of the herd you wish to _capture_, go some place _else_ and get it, and after picking out a good location somewhere upon the range, build up a high, strong _corral_ large enough to hold the herd you wish to capture. Leave an entrance at one side, and run a lane from the entrance divergingly into the prairie, until the lane is about one hundred yards wide at the mouth. Now for the _chase_. Get four horses, well shod, and put two to a light wagon, and put in feed and provisions for several days; and get a man to drive. Have two good riding-ponies, and tie one behind the wagon and _mount_ the _other_. Now start after the herd in a _walk_, and let the _wagon_ follow just in sight of you. Of course, the first day the mustangs will burn the prairie, and you will not be in sight of them _half the time_; but just keep on, and never break the _walk_. The wagon, of course, will not travel nearly as far as _you_ do, for, as the herd circles, the driver can cut across. Choose a moonlight season, and at first go all night, keeping them excited so that they neither eat nor drink. The second day you can keep in sight all day; but they become very much _excited_ at seeing themselves _pursued_, and will run frantic here and there, and by _cutting across_ you need not go half their distance. You can get to the wagon to _change ponies_ and get a _bite_ when you wish. Go this way, _night_ and _day_, for about _three days_, when they will become hungry and weak, and you can get close. You can now sleep at night and chase during the day. If any of the range has been burned over, or the ground is otherwise rough, their _feet_ become sore and they can be captured _sooner_; but _usually_ about the _tenth day_ you can ride up to the herd and drive them along. When _this_ is the case, take a _whip_ and _force_ them along until they are so worried that you can ride among them and handle them any way. Now drive them to the _corral_ and fasten them in. Now rope them together closely with strong ropes, and drive them to the railroad for _shipment_ or to the _ranch_ to break _for use_. While they are _weak_ they are easily broken. _Large herds_ are often captured in this way; and there are men who, _every spring_ when the grass is short and the ponies are poor, make this a _business_, and from it realize large profits.

There are many fine, large, branded horses, which have escaped from the _hunters_, _cow-men_, _emigrants_, and the _Government_, now running with the wild herds, and, of course, belong to whoever captures them. When there are several _large mules_ or _fine horses_ in a bunch, it tickles the hunter mightily; and not having forgotten their _former_ lives, they render the herd easier to be caught, and are not much trouble to re-break.

Now this is the way the _herds_ are captured; but of course there are captures made now and then in _different ways_. The hunter sometimes conceals himself near the water where the herd comes down to drink, and, watching his opportunity, _creases_ his animal; that is, he shoots him through the neck about an inch from the top and just in front of the shoulders. This will _stun_ the animal so that he will fall and not recover for some minutes, in which time you can bind him fast. _This_ is, though, _scientific_ work, and none but a _fine shot_ need _undertake it_; for a little _too high_ does _no_ good, and the least _too low_ does _too much_ good entirely.

Now, there yet remains to be explained the _stock_ business, which is so extensively carried on in this country, and to which nearly the whole prairie country is so peculiarly adapted. Were I to tell to persons who had never been here of the millions of cattle and sheep that are pastured here, and of the thousands that are annually shipped to the states, it would be incredibly received. As before said, the prairie is covered with _buffalo-grass_, which is next to _mountain bunch-grass_, which is said to be the strongest grass in the world. It usually grows _thickly_ and about six inches long, and curls up--though of course _this_ depends upon the range. It usually _rains_ and _snows_ some in the _winter_ and _spring_ seasons, but during the _summer_ season it never sprinkles; and you can be just as sure of it as of the wrath to come. I have often thought that this would be a fine place to make hay. The snows and rains dampen the earth, and in the spring, when the grass springs forth and the prairie world is wrapped in its green mantle, there is no part of the earth more beautiful. About the first of May the grass is usually _grown up_, and it stays green until about _August_, when--except in the valleys--it all dries up in the hot sun and dry air, and cattle eat it like hay. It is then the _strongest_. And stock-men hate to see the fall rains come; for they say it takes the _strength_ out of the _grass_.