Chapter VI: Artificial Silk

1. EARLY DEVELOPMENT

[Sidenote: _Chardonnet_]

The discovery of what is known as “artificial silk” is generally attributed to a Frenchman, Count Hilaire de Chardonnet, who after many years of research and experimentation, between 1840 and 1890, finally perfected a fibre that possessed the necessary qualities for practical weaving. He introduced his discovery to the public in 1891 at the Paris Exposition, and in addition to winning the “Grand Prix” was also made a knight of the Legion of Honor in recognition of his contribution to science and industry.

[Sidenote: _Further Development_]

Since that time others have contributed to the development of the new fibre and discovered other methods of production—all, however, based on the same general principle as the Chardonnet process. Despaisses and Panly, two Frenchmen, and Stearn, Cross and Bevan, Englishmen, are the outstanding names in this work.

2. VARIOUS PROCESSES

[Sidenote: _Use of Cellulose_]

All the processes that have met with any success are based on the use of cellulose in some form, as a foundation. The two sources that have proved most successful are wood-pulp and cotton and it may be said that the bulk of the artificial silk on the market comes from one or the other of these two raw materials.

[Sidenote: _Chardonnet Process_]

The Chardonnet process uses cotton as its base. It is first bleached, then by chemical treatment is changed to nitro-cellulose, which is dissolved in alcohol and ether and thus made ready for “spinning.”

[Sidenote: _Viscose Process_]

The Viscose process, which has made great strides in recent years, makes use of a pure grade of sulphite wood-pulp. This pulp is in sheet form and is first treated with a solution of caustic soda, then shredded very fine and put through several more chemical treatments, finally being dissolved in water preparatory to the “spinning.”

[Sidenote: “_Spinning_”]

In both of the above methods the production of the thread is the same. The solution, whether it be based on cotton or wood-pulp, is forced through minute holes and comes out in a thread-like stream, which solidifies when subjected to a setting bath. It is then washed, dried, and put through processes, such as twisting, reeling, etc., very similar to those which natural silks undergo.

3. USES OF ARTIFICIAL SILK

The uses of artificial silk are many and are not entirely confined to combinations with other textiles. Of recent years the knitting trade has adopted it extensively, particularly in hosiery, sweater and underwear manufacture. In weaving, it has proven very successful in combination with silk or cotton. Large quantities are used in ribbon, electric cord covering, yarns, threads, etc. It is generally felt that the new fibre does not directly compete with or replace natural silk, but rather occupies its own place in the trade on the same basis as the other textiles.

[Sidenote: _Growth of the Industry_]

It has only been during the last fifteen years that artificial silk has been a very important factor commercially, although for a few years before that time, small quantities were produced in Europe. Since about 1910 its use has been steadily growing in this country, the importations from Europe increasing in 1912 from about one and one-half million pounds to nearly three million pounds in 1914. Since 1910 domestic production has also become a factor in the market and numerous factories have been established, the figures for 1923 showing about 33,000,000 pounds output. It is estimated that in 1922 the combined importations and domestic production amounted to around 20,000,000 pounds, about 50% of the total consumption of natural silk for that year.

[Sidenote: _U. S. Production_]

The following figures show the production of artificial silk in the United States in 1913 and between 1920 and 1923:

1913 1,566,000 pounds
1920 8,000,000 ”
1921 15,000,000 ”
1922 24,000,000 ”
1923 33,000,000 ”

INTO THE

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

CALENDAR YEAR 1914-1923

Courtesy of The Silk Association of America]

THE INTERNATIONAL ACCEPTANCE BANK, INC. AND THE SILK TRADE

THE INTERNATIONAL ACCEPTANCE BANK, INC., finances annually the importation of millions of dollars worth of SILK from China, Japan, and Italy.

THE INTERNATIONAL ACCEPTANCE BANK, INC., can offer exceptional facilities for opening commercial letters of credit in the Far East by reason of its large net-work of correspondents, and particularly because of its close relation to the NETHERLANDS TRADING SOCIETY, with branches throughout the Far East, which is one of its leading shareholders. Through its close relationship with this institution, and with many other Eastern banks, THE INTERNATIONAL ACCEPTANCE BANK, INC., can obtain for its clients a highly efficient service and can give them the benefit of the confidential information which it receives.

Transcriber’s Notes

pg 74 Changed: from horizonal spools on to vertical spindles
to: from horizontal spools on to vertical spindles

pg 78 Changed: then compressed betweeen rollers
to: then compressed between rollers

pg 91 Changed: further into hitherto uninhabitated
to: further into hitherto uninhabited

pg 124 Changed: It is then washed, dryed
to: It is then washed, dried