Chapter I: Front Matter

Through Arctic Lapland

_By the same Author._

THE RECIPE FOR DIAMONDS.
HONOUR OF THIEVES.
THE PARADISE COAL-BOAT.
ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN KETTLE.

Through
Arctic Lapland

BY
CUTCLIFFE HYNE

LONDON
ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK

1898

TO

MRS. ALFRED HARMSWORTH

OUR FRIEND

C. H.

C. J. C. H.

Preface

It seems customary in a book of travel to make frequent
allusions to other voyagers who have journeyed over the same
ground, or at least the same district, and to make constant
references to them, and give copious quotations from their
works. Of course we ought to have gone to the British Museum
before starting on our travel, and there read up all books
which in the least bore upon the country which we were going
to visit. We omitted to do this, firstly, because we
preferred to observe things for ourselves, from our own
individual standpoint, unprejudiced by the way in which
other people had observed them; and, secondly, from the far
more potent reason that we made our actual start in a great
hurry, and had little enough time for any preparations
whatever.

However, on our return to England we thought well to check
the information we had garnered. So we duly provided
ourselves with readers' tickets for that institution, and
went to the British Museum Library, and got down every book
which seemed in any way to bear upon the country we had
wandered over, regardless of the tongue in which it was
written. It was a surprise to us to learn (and may we add
that the surprise was not without its pleasant savour?) that
of all the volumes in that collection not one covered the
route which we took during summer through Arctic Lapland.
Many had gone near it, from a gentleman of bygone date who
wrote in Latin, to Mr. Paul du Chaillu, who chats about the
larger part of the Scandinavian Peninsula. But we seemed to
have stumbled across the one bit of Europe which has not
been pilloried on paper at one time or another, and so we
here venture to take up a couple of note-books which were
originally made for personal gratification, and amplify them
into a volume of letterpress and sketches which may haply
interest others.

Contents

CHAPTER I
PAGE
LONDON TO VARDÖ, WITH A FEW EXAMPLES OF HOW
PLANS MAY BE CHANGED 1

CHAPTER II

ACROSS THE VARANGER TO ELVENAES, WITH SOME OBSERVATIONS
ON THE FISHING OF THE FINNER WHALE,
AND A NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS WITH A JEW 19

CHAPTER III

BY CANOE TO THE NEIDEN, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE RUSSIAN
LAPPS' DAUBSFEST AT BORIS GLEB 38

CHAPTER IV

FROM THE NEIDEN ELV TO ENARE SEE, WITH PUNGENT
COMMENT ON THE HABITS OF FINNISH CARRIERS 52

CHAPTER V

ENARE SEE TO ENARE TOWN IN A SQUARE-SAIL VIKING
SHIP 76

CHAPTER VI

INTO THE LAND OF HORRIBLE FLIES: A NARRATIVE OF
PERSONALLY-CONDUCTED TRAVEL 98

CHAPTER VII

INTO THE LAND OF HORRIBLE FLIES--_Continued_ 133

CHAPTER VIII

IN TOUCH WITH THE GENUINE NOMAD, WITH SOME REMARKS
UPON HIS DOMESTIC DEER, HIS TREASURE-HOARDS,
AND THE DECAY OF HIS PRACTICE IN SORCERY 147

CHAPTER IX

A _PRÉCIS_ OF LAPPISH HISTORY, AND A NARRATIVE OF
TRANSIT BY RAFT AND SWAMP TO IVALOMATI 167

CHAPTER X

ON TO POKKA, WITH AN INTRODUCTION TO PRINCE JOHANN
OF LAPLAND 190

CHAPTER XI

THE WORST MARCHES OF ALL 213

CHAPTER XII

DOWN THE RAPIDS TO KITTILA TOWN 239