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Chapter XII: The Guianas

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On the northeastern shoulder of the continent lies a huge block of territory as large as France and Spain combined. It is in reality an island, since it is bounded on the north and east by the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean, on the south by the Amazon River, and on the northwest and west by the continuous waterway formed by the Orinoco, the Casiquiare and the Negro rivers, the last named an affluent of the Amazon. Like the north Andean republics, the Guiana country is made up of mountains, highlands, and low-lying plains, and lies wholly in the tropics; its productiveness thus embraces nearly every cereal and vegetable found in the three great zones of the earth.

Guiana was discovered, named, and first occupied by the Spanish in the very beginning of things in South America. It acquired fame in the latter part of the sixteenth century as one of the regions in which the home of El Dorado was supposed to be located—the fateful will-o’-the-wisp that was chased by the early fortune hunters all over the region from the mountain fastnesses about Bogotá, in Colombia, to the Paraná, in southern Brazil, the lure which brought disaster even to such men of intelligence and practical common sense as Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis Drake. The long-sought Lake Guatavita (now known to be located near Bogotá), in whose sacred waters El Dorado bathed his gilded body, was once supposed to lie near the source of the Orinoco in the Parima Mountains, and, indeed, geologists now contend that such a lake did exist ages ago in these mountainous heights, and it is unquestionably true that on the line northward from this point runs a vein of gold richer than any in the known world, and that this vein had been worked by the Indians from time immemorial.

The lure of the gold, purged, however, of its myth, has survived to our own day, for we all remember Great Britain’s effort, in her boundary dispute with Venezuela, to extend her Guiana boundary over the rich gold fields south of the Orinoco delta.

Until 1624, the Spanish succeeded in holding Guiana against all comers; but in that year the Dutch West India Company gained a foothold at the head of the Essequibo delta, and was confirmed in its possession by the treaty of Münster in 1648, at the close of the war between Spain and the Netherlands. After this opening, other nations made haste to share in a partition of the rich territory. The French established a colony at Cayenne; the English made a settlement and called it Surreyham, after the Earl of Surrey—whence the present name of Surinam—and eventually the country was partitioned among the five nations: Brazil became the owner of that portion trailing off southward to the Amazon which Portugal had wrested from Spain, and which is now sometimes called Brazilian Guiana, although it is an integral part of the United States of Brazil; France still retains Cayenne, now known as French Guiana; the Dutch are now installed in the Surinam colony, which came into their possession at the time of the British occupation of New York, and is now called Dutch Guiana; Great Britain owns the three settlements at Demerara, Berbice, and Essequibo, captured in 1803 from the Dutch and afterward ceded to her by the treaty of 1814, and which now constitute British Guiana, and, lastly, Venezuela, as successor to the title of Spain, owns the rest of the highlands, south of Parima and Pacarima, the territory formerly known as Spanish Guiana until the revolution of the Venezuelan colonists.

British Guiana is 109,000 square miles in area—larger than the United Kingdom—and has a population of about 300,000, made up of 150,000 negroes, 100,000 East Indians, 15,000 Portuguese, 10,000 British and Europeans, and the balance of _mestizos_. It is divided into three counties, which correspond to the old settlements—Demerara, Berbice, and Essequibo. Georgetown, the capital, is on the right bank of the Demerara River at its mouth. It is an attractive port city of about 60,000 inhabitants, heavily shaded with tropical trees, and presents the substantial appearance of most British colonial centers. Just now its interests are being rather neglected, but, as the shipping point of a sugar area productive enough to supply the mother country, it could be developed into one of the great ports of the Caribbean.

The area of Dutch Guiana is 46,060 square miles, and its population numbers about 70,000. The capital, Paramaribo, is a city of some 30,000 inhabitants, located at the junction of the Surinam and Commewine rivers, about ten miles from the sea. The colony’s trade in coffee, cacao, rubber, timber, and gold has not yet been developed to such proportions as to make it self-supporting; it is still subsidized by the mother country.

French Guiana is known to us principally as a penal settlement. Since the days of the French Revolution, Devil’s Island, off the coast, has been used by the French government as a penal establishment, and in recent years the world has become familiar with its supposed terrors by reading the account of Captain Dreyfus’s sufferings. Nevertheless, French Guiana has all the capabilities of the other Guianas, and could be made richly productive. Its area is 31,000 square miles and its population about 25,000; that of its capital, the city of St. Louis, on the Island of Cayenne, now numbers slightly over 15,000.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

GENERAL

ALONG THE ANDES. _A. Petrocokino_

ALONG THE ANDES AND DOWN THE AMAZON. _H. J. Mozans_

ANCIENT AMERICA. _John D. Baldwin_

ANDES AND THE AMAZON, THE. _James Orton_

ANDES AND THE AMAZON, THE. _Reginald C. Enock_

AROUND THE CARIBBEAN AND ACROSS PANAMA. _Francis C. Nicholas_

BETWEEN THE ANDES AND THE OCEAN. _William Eleroy Curtis_

CAPITALS OF SOUTH AMERICA, THE. _William Eleroy Curtis_

COMMERCIAL TRAVELER IN SOUTH AMERICA. _Frank Wiborg_

CONTINENT OF OPPORTUNITY, THE. _Francis E. Clark_

DISCOVERY OF AMERICA, THE. _John Fiske_

DISCOVERY AND CONQUEST OF AMERICA, A
COLLECTION OF RARE DOCUMENTS CONCERNING. _E. George Squier_

EXPLORATION OF THE VALLEY OF THE AMAZON. _William Lewis Herndon_

GREAT STATES OF SOUTH AMERICA, THE. _Charles W. Domville-Fife_

LAND OF TO-MORROW, THE. (Pamphlet.) _John Barrett_

LATIN AMERICA OF TO-DAY AND ITS RELATIONS TO
THE UNITED STATES. (Pamphlet.) _John Barrett_

LATIN AMERICA, A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO. _Albert Hale_

NORTHERN REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMERICA, THE.
(Pamphlet.) _John Barrett_

ORINOCO, UP THE, AND DOWN THE MAGDALENA. _H. J. Mozans_

OTHER AMERICANS, THE. _Arthur Ruhl_

PANAMA TO PATAGONIA. _Charles M. Pepper_

SOUTH AMERICA. (Translated.) _Antonio D. Ulloa_

SOUTH AMERICA. _A. H. Keane_

SOUTH AMERICA, HISTORY OF. _Adnah D. Jones_

SOUTH AMERICA, HISTORY OF. _Charles E. Akers_

SOUTH AMERICAN REPUBLICS, THE. _Thomas C. Dawson_

SOUTH AMERICAN REPUBLICS, THE INDEPENDENCE
OF. _Francis L. Paxson_

SOUTH AMERICANS, THE. _Albert Hale_

SPANISH AMERICA. _Julian Hawthorne_

SPANISH CONQUEST IN AMERICA, THE. _Sir Arthur Helps_

BY COUNTRIES

ACONCAGUA AND TIERRA DEL FUEGO. _Sir Martin Conway_

ARGENTINA. _W. A. Hirst_

ARGENTINA AND HER PEOPLE OF TO-DAY. _Nevin O. Winter_

ARGENTINA, MODERN. _W. H. Koebel_

ARGENTINA, THE REPUBLIC OF. _A. Stuart Pennington_

BOLIVIA. _Marie Robinson Wright_

BOLIVIA, A HANDBOOK ISSUED BY. _The Pan American Union_

BOLIVIAN ANDES, THE. _Sir Martin Conway_

BRAZIL AND THE BRAZILIANS. _James C. Fletcher and D. P.
Kidder_

BRAZIL, A JOURNEY IN. _Louis Agassiz_

BRAZIL, THE NEW. _Marie Robinson Wright_

BRAZIL OF TO-DAY. (Translated.) _Arthur Dias_

CHILE, HISTORY OF. _Anson Uriel Hancock_

CHILE, ITS HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT. _G. F. Scott Elliot_

CHILE, THE REPUBLIC OF. _Marie Robinson Wright_

CHILE OF TO-DAY. (By the Chilean
Consul-General in New York.) _Adolfo Ortuzar_

COLOMBIA. (Pamphlet.) _John Barrett_

COLOMBIA, JOURNAL OF EXPEDITION ACROSS
VENEZUELA AND. _Hiram Bingham_

COLOMBIA, THE REPUBLIC OF. _F. Loraine Petre_

COLOMBIAN AND VENEZUELAN REPUBLICS, THE. _William E. Scruggs_

COUNTRIES OF THE KING’S AWARD, THE. _Sir Thomas H. Holdich_

CUZCO AND LIMA. _Sir Clements R. Markham_

ECUADOR, A HANDBOOK ISSUED BY. _The Pan American Union_

INCAS OF PERU, THE. _Sir Clements R. Markham_

INCAS, ROYAL COMMENTARIES ON. (Translated.) _Garcilaso de la Vega_

ISLANDS OF TITICACA AND KOATI. _Adolf F. Bandelier_

PARAGUAY. (Translated.) _E. de Bourgade la Dardye_

PARAGUAY, A HANDBOOK ISSUED BY. _The Pan American Union_

PARAGUAY, HISTORY OF. _Charles A. Washburn_

PERU, CHRONICLES OF. (Translated.) _Pedro de Cieza de Leon_

PERU, HISTORY OF. _Sir Clements R. Markham_

PERU, HISTORIA GENERAL. (Translated.) _Garcilaso de la Vega_

PERU, HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF. _William H. Prescott_

PERU: INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN THE LAND OF THE
INCAS. _E. George Squier_

PERU, THE OLD AND THE NEW. _Marie Robinson Wright_

PURPLE LAND THAT ENGLAND LOST, THE. _W. H. Hudson_

TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES OF THE
EQUATOR. _Sir Edward Whymper_

TRAVELS IN THE WILDS OF ECUADOR. _Alfred Simpson_

URUGUAY. _W. H. Koebel_

URUGUAY, A HANDBOOK ISSUED BY. _The Pan American Union_

VENEZUELA. _William Eleroy Curtis_

VENEZUELAN REPUBLICS, THE COLOMBIAN AND. _William L. Scruggs_

VENEZUELA AND COLOMBIA, JOURNAL OF AN
EXPEDITION ACROSS. _Hiram Bingham_

WILDERNESS, OUR SEARCH FOR A. _Mary Blair and W. C. Beebe_

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INDEX

Aconcagua, Mt., 280-282, 283-284, 366.

Agassiz, Louis, exploration of Amazon by, 139-140.

Agriculture, in Brazil, 136;
in Argentina, 191-192;
in Uruguay, 235;
in Bolivia, 262-264;
in Ecuador, 355-359;
in Colombia, 379-380;
in Venezuela, 418-419.

Alcantara, Francisco, 42, 84.

Almagro, Diego de, 38, 41, 42, 43, 68, 75-76;
leads expedition into Chile, 76;
disappointed and repulsed in Chile, returns to Peru and wars against
the Pizarro brothers, 79-81;
death of, 81;
followers of, assassinate Pizarro, 83-85.

Alpaca, the, in Peru, 47;
in Argentina, 216.

Altar, El, volcano, Ecuador, 367.

Alvarado, Alonso de, 82.

Alvarado, Pedro de, 75-76.

Amambay Mountains, 241.

Amazon River, discovery of, 81;
description of, 137 ff.;
sources of, in Peruvian Andes, 322.

Andes Mountains, nature of, in Chile, 277-288;
railway through the, 280;
in Peru, 321;
in Colombia, 375-376.

Animals of Amazon country, 141.

Antofagasta, city of, 292, 293-295.

Antofagasta, Province of, 287, 290.

Antofagasta-La Paz railway, 261.

_Araucana_ of Ercilla, 102-103.

Araucanian Indians, 101 ff.;
wars of the Spanish with, 102-103;
customs, religion, and dress, 104-105;
Valdivia’s war with, 106-109;
treaties between Spanish and, 110-111.

Architecture, styles of, in South American cities, 232-233.

Arequipa, city of, 82, 332-333;
Harvard Observatory at, 333-334.

Argentina, Spanish conquest of northern areas of, 112-113;
area and coast-line, 190;
natural resources, 191-192;
government, 192-193;
population, 193;
volume of trade with Europe as compared with that with United States,
194;
division into Buenos Aires and “the Camp,” 194-195;
political history, 195-197;
rapid advance of, since 1862, 197-198;
railways, immigration, and education in, 198;
conditions of life in Buenos Aires, 198-213;
“the Camp,” 214 ff.;
cattle, horses, sheep, goats, etc., of, 216-217;
gradual introduction of small landholders into, 219;
territory known as Patagonia, 223-225;
Tierra del Fuego, 225;
tropical wilds of the north, 226-227.

Asphalt deposits, 415, 419.

Asses, in Argentina, 216.

Asunción, Paraguay, 241;
population and character, 245-246, 251-252.

Atacama, Province of, 277, 287.

Atacames, Ecuador, 358.

Atahualpa, defeat of Huascar by and accession to Inca throne, 59-61;
made a prisoner by Pizarro, 61-65;
ransom paid by, 66;
Pizarro’s treachery toward and murder of, 66-68.

Atrato River, 376.

Aucasquilucha, Mt., 278.

Ayacucho, battle of, 132.

Aymara Indians, 48.

Bahia, State of, black diamonds in, 189.

Bahia Blanca, city of, 195.

Balboa, Vasco Nuñez de, 22-25, 35, 36.

_Balsa_ rafts, Guayaquil, 363.

_Balsas_, reed boats on Lake Titicaca, 57.

Banana trees, Ecuador, 364.

Barranquilla, 391, 392, 396-397.

Barrett, John, _Independent_ article by, quoted, 315;
on Colombia’s commercial possibilities, 397.

Belém, city of, 137, 139, 146-153.

Belgrano, Manuel, 123.

Belgrano, suburb of Buenos Aires, 202.

Bello Horizonte, city of, 186-187.

Benalcázar, Sebastian de, 76, 92, 95, 96, 370.

Bermudez, asphalt lake of, 419.

Bio-bio River, 101, 102, 105, 106, 108, 111.

Bitumen from Venezuela, 419.

Black diamonds, 189.

Blanco, Guzmán, 422.

_Blancos_, Uruguayan political faction, 238.

Boers in Patagonia, 225.

Bogotá, 95, 383, 384, 385-389.

Bolívar, Simon, 123, 129;
San Martín’s retirement in favor of, 129-130;
career of, 130-133;
Bolivia named for, 259;
period of residence in Bogotá, 387-388;
tomb of, Caracas, 412;
relics of, at Caracas, 412-413.

Bolivia, Pizarro’s expedition into, 82;
position, 257-258;
people, 259;
area and climate, 259-260;
scenery, 261-262;
agricultural productions, 262-264;
mineral wealth, 264-266;
cities and ruins in, 266-274.

Bolognesi, Colonel, 328.

Bomfim, Senhor, quoted, 175.

Botafogo Bay, 163, 167.

Botanical garden, at Belém, 150;
at Rio de Janeiro, 168-169.

Boyacá, battle of, 131.

Brandão, Frei Caetano, statue of, Belém, 150-151.

Brazil, discovery of, 18;
exploration of, by Vespucci, 18-19;
secures independence, 133;
area and population of present republic, 134-135;
international commerce, 135-136;
the Amazon country, 137-153;
railways, 153-154;
cities of coast, 154-160.

Brazil wood, 19, 33.

British, capital of, invested in Argentine railways, 197-198;
residing in Buenos Aires, 203;
club life of, Buenos Aires, 207-208;
investments of, in Argentine land, 219;
in Patagonia, 224;
as investors in Montevideo, 231.

British Guiana, 426, 427-428.

Bucarmanga, Colombia, 397.

Buenaventura, Colombia, 397.

Buenos Aires, first settlement on site of, 113;
pride of citizens of, in their city, 194-195;
in character similar to Chicago, 198-199;
impressive dock system of, 199-200;
commerce of, 200-201;
the æsthetic side of, 201-202;
influence of Paris on the culture, dress, and customs of, 202-203;
foreign colonies in, 203;
patriotism of citizens of, 203-204;
newspapers of, 204-205;
places of amusement, opera, cafés, etc., of, 205-206;
club life in, 207-210;
the Jockey Club, 208-210;
contrasts of prodigality and destitution in, 211;
narrowness of streets, 212-213;
expense of living in, 213;
a well-appointed city in all respects, 213-214.

Buenos Aires, Province of, 197.

Buenos Aires, University of, 198.

Buenos Aires, Viceroyalty of, 116.

Bull, papal, dividing New World between Spain and Portugal, 14, 17.

Caaguazú Mountains, 241.

Cabot, Sebastian, 31-32.

Cabral, Pedro Alvarez, 18.

Cacao trees, Ecuador, 356-357.

Cafés, at Belém, 152-153;
at Rio de Janeiro, 171;
Buenos Aires, 211-212.

Callao, description of, 318-319.

Cape Horn, 225-226.

Caquetá River, 376.

Carabobo, State of, 406.

Caracas, Venezuela, 409-414.

Carriage parade, Buenos Aires, 210.

Cartagena, Colombia, 90, 392-396.

Cartier, Jacques, 22.

Casapalca, town of, 331.

Casas, Bartolomé de las, 86, 402-403.

Castro, Cipriano, 421, 422-423.

Castro, Vaca de, 83, 86.

Cattle-raising, in Rio Grande do Sul, 186;
in Argentina, 191, 216;
in Uruguay, 235.

Cauca River, 376, 391.

Cauchi tribe of Indians, 47.

Caupolican, Araucanian chief, 102-103, 106, 107, 108.

Cayenne, Island of, 428.

Cedar from Colombia, 380.

Century plant in Ecuador, 354.

Chacabuco, battle of, 125, 279.

Chachacomani, Mt., 258.

Chaco region, 218, 226, 240.

Charrúa Indians, 237.

Chaves, Francisco, 84.

Chibcha Indians, 94-95.

Chicago, comparison of Buenos Aires and, 199, 201-202.

Chile, Almagro leads a force into, 76;
Valdivia undertakes conquest of, 82;
Spanish wars in attempts to conquer native tribes of, 97-112;
War of Independence in, 124-126;
proclamation of independence of, 126;
the matter of a name for, 275-276;
shape, location, and area, 276-277;
commerce, 277;
mountains, passes, and other surface features, 278-288;
nitrate of soda deposits, 288-292;
cities, 293-307;
war between Peru and, 297;
islands of southern, 307 ff.;
mountain ranges along Strait of Magellan, 310-313.

Chiloé, Island of, 286, 307.

Chiloé, Province of, 286.

Chimborazo, Mt., 365-366.

Chincona trees, 263.

Chonos Archipelago, 307.

Christ of the Andes, the, 222-223.

Chubut, Territory of, 224.

Church, F. E., “Heart of the Andes,” by, 365.

Cigars, Brazilian, 159.

Cipango, island of (Japan), 9, 14.

Ciudad Bolívar, 412, 416.

Club life in Buenos Aires, 207-210.

Coast Range, Brazilian, 163-164.

Coati, island of, 57, 336.

Coca, 357.

Coca leaf, chewing of the, 262-263.

Cochabamba, 261.

Cochrane, Lord, 127.

Cocoa, 357-358.

Coelho, Duarte, 34.

Coffee, production of, in Brazil, 136;
in State of São Paulo, 176;
exportation of, from Santos, 182-183;
beginnings and increase in growth of, in Brazil, 183-184;
description of plantations, 184-185;
production of, in Colombia, 380;
in Venezuela, 401;
Maracaibo coffee, 404.

Colleges, at São Paulo, 179.

Colocolo, Araucanian chief, 106.

Colombia, early exploration of, 90-97;
formation of Republic of, 131;
location and area, 375;
mountains and river systems, 375-376;
mineral wealth, 376-379;
agricultural products, 379-380;
range in climate, 380-381;
railways, 381-382;
mountain scenery, 382-384;
trip down the Magdalena River, 389-392;
cities and seaports, 392-396;
commercial possibilities of, 397-399.

Colonial system, Spanish, in South America, 113-120.

Colón Opera House, Buenos Aires, 206-207.

_Colorados_, Uruguayan political faction, 238.

Columbus, Bartholomew, 7, 10, 15.

Columbus, Christopher, 7-11;
personal appearance, 11;
historic voyage of, 11-13;
second voyage of, 15-16;
later voyages and death, 16-17.

Columbus, Diego, 15.

Coluna, Mt., 405.

Commerce, of Argentina, 191-192;
at Buenos Aires, 200-201;
of Uruguay, 235;
of Chile, 277;
possibilities for, in Colombia, 397-399;
of Venezuela, 419;
of the Guianas, 427-428.

Compilation of Laws of the Kingdoms of the Indies, code known as, 113,
114.

Concepción, Chile, 105, 287.

Concha, Mt., 405.

Conway, Sir Martin, quoted, 280-282, 311-313.

Copper, in Bolivia, 266. _See_ Mineral resources.

Coquimbo, Chile, 100, 101.

Coquimbo, Province of, 287.

Córdoba, city of, 195.

Córdoba, University of, 198.

Coro, Venezuela, 405-406.

Corrientes, 245.

Cortés, Hernando, 30-31, 81.

Cosmas, Egyptian monk, 2-3.

Cotopaxi, Mt., 367.

Council of the Indies, 35, 117.

Cucutá, battle of, 131.

Cumaná, Venezuela, 402.

Curaçao, Island of, 406.

Curtis, W. E., quoted, 164-165, 301.

Cuzco, founding of, in 12th century, 48;
appearance of, at time of the Incas, 52;
Pizarro’s march on and occupation of, 68-70;
description of, 342-344, 349-351;
ruins at, 343-349.

Darwin, Mt., 311.

D’Aubigny, quoted, 262.

Davila, Pedrarias, 36.

Dawson, T. C., quoted, 6, 23, 37, 41, 83-85, 88-89, 100-101, 111,
158-159, 246-249, 250-251.

Desiderato, Cape, 28.

Desolation Island, 310.

De Soto, Hernando, 43-44, 68.

Devil’s Island, French Guiana, 428.

Diamantina, town of, 189.

Diamonds, Brazilian, 189;
black, mined in State of Bahia, 189.

Dias, Arthur, quoted, 140.

Dias, Bartholomew, 7.

Docks, of Buenos Aires, 199-200;
of Montevideo, 229.

Dutch Guiana, 426-427, 428.

Earthquake, of 1859 in Ecuador, 368;
of 1877, 371-372.

Earthquakes, in Venezuela, 413.

Ecuador, invasion of, by a lieutenant of Pizarro’s, 76;
area, population, and political divisions, 352;
river systems, 352-353;
climate, 353-354;
plants, shrubs, and trees, 354-358;
voyage along coast of, 360-361;
mountains, 365-372.

Eden, Richard, 27.

Education, in Brazil, 178-180;
in Argentina, 198.

El Dorado, legend of, 91-96, 425.

Emeralds of Colombia, 35, 377-379.

_Encomiendas_, system of, 86, 87.

England, commerce between Brazil and, 136;
capital from, invested in Argentine railways, 197-198.

English, in Valparaiso, 297. _See_ British.

Episcopal seminary, São Paulo, 179.

Ercilla, Alonso de, 102-103.

Esmeraldas, Province of, 358.

Essequibo, 426, 427.

Estates or ranches of Argentina, 214-219.

Eucalyptus trees, Montevideo, 232.

Exposition of 1910 at Buenos Aires, 198.

Federmann, Nicolaus, 95, 96.

Fiske, John, quoted, 15, 17, 80-81.

Forests, of Brazil, 136;
of Paraguay, 241;
of southern Chile, 286-287, 308-310;
of Ecuador, 356, 363-364.

Formosa, territory of, in Argentina, 226.

Fortaleza, city of, 154.

Fletcher, James C., quoted, 161-162.

Francia, José Rodríguez Gaspar, 246-249.

Fray Bentos, Liebig Company plant at, 235-236.

French, in Buenos Aires, 203;
in Valparaiso, 297, 298.

French Guiana, 426, 428.

Froward, Cape, 311.

Fruit-raising at Mendoza, 221.

Fuegian Archipelago, 225-226.

Funza River, 385.

Gallo, Island of, 39.

Gama, Vasco da, 7, 16-17.

Garcilaso, de la Vega. _See_ Vega.

Gasca, Pedro de la, 89-90.

_Gaucho_, Argentine cowboy, 217-218.

Georgetown, British Guiana, 427.

Germans, steamships of, at Buenos Aires, 200;
resident at Buenos Aires, 203;
investments of, in Argentine land, 219;
in Patagonia, 224;
in Valparaiso, 297.

Gilded Man, legend of the, 91, 425.

Goats, in Argentina, 216;
in Uruguay, 235.

Gold, of the Incas, 54, 58, 73-74;
mining of, in State of Minas Geraes, 187-189;
in Venezuela, 419;
in the Guianas, 425.
_See also_ Mineral resources.

Gomara, Francisco Lopez de, quoted, 54.

Grains, production of, in Argentina, 192.

Gran Chaco, 218, 226, 240.

Great Western Railroad, Argentina, 220.

Guadelupe, Mt., 385, 387.

Guallatiri, Mt., 257.

Guano deposits, Peru, 321.

Guarany Indians, 242.

Guatavita, Lake, 425.

Guayaquil, founding of, 76;
manufacture of Panamá hats at, 359-360;
description of city, 360-363.

Guayas River, 76, 353, 361.

Guayra, cataract of, 244-245.

Guiana Highlands, 417-418.

Guianas, location and topography, 424;
discovery, naming, and occupation by the Spanish, 424-425;
Dutch, English, and other nations in, 426-427;
area, population, and productions, 427-428.

Hancock, A. U., “History of Chile” by, cited, 103.

Harvard Observatory, Arequipa, 333-334.

Hawthorne, Julian, quoted, 5, 13-14, 22, 27-28, 46-49, 68, 80-81, 89-90,
93, 104-105, 106-109, 110-111, 112.

Helps, Sir Arthur, quoted, 81.

Heredia, Pedro de, 90, 91, 392.

Herndon, W. H., exploration of Amazon by, 139, 140, 141, 144-145.

Herveo, Mesa de, 385, 391.

Holmes, Burton, quoted, 161, 172-173, 283-284.

Honda, Colombia, 390.

Hope emerald, the, 379.

Horse-raising, in Argentina, 191, 216;
in Uruguay, 235.

Hospitals, Buenos Aires, 213.

Houses, in Santiago, 305-306;
of Guayaquil, 361-362;
of Quito, 373.

Huallaga River, 322.

Huarina, battle of, 89.

Huascar, Inca sovereign, 59-61, 65.

Huatanay River, 343.

Huayna Capac, 45, 59.

Humboldt, Baron von, exploration of Amazon by, 138;
quoted, 364, 381;
house occupied by, in Bogotá, 389.

Iguazú Falls, 227.

Illampú, Mt., 258.

Illimani, Mt., 258.

Immigration, to Argentina, 198.

Imperial, Chile, 105.

Inca’s Head, the, 368.

Incas, extent of empire, 44;
question of origin, 44-49;
lack of written records among, 46;
peoples who antedated, 46-47;
history of, previous to conquest by Spanish, 47-49;
highways of the, 49;
worship of sun and moon by, 50, 57-58, 335;
marriage of sovereigns, 50;
trade carried on by water only, 51;
irrigation of land practiced under the, 51;
common ownership of land, 51-52;
temple and palaces of, at Cuzco, 52-54;
different type of people from Peruvian Indians of to-day, 55-56;
dress, 56-57;
birthplace and legend of birth, 335-336.

Indians, of northern Argentina, 226;
in El Chaco, 240;
work of Jesuits among Paraguayan, 242-245;
natives of Tierra del Fuego, 285-286.

Iquima, Mt., 278.

Iquique, city of, 294.

Irala, Domingo, 113, 242.

Irrigation, practiced by Incas, 51;
possibilities of, in Peru, 321.

Islands of southern Chile, 307-308.

Italians, as laborers in State of São Paulo, 184;
resident in Buenos Aires, 203;
in Montevideo, 231;
in Valparaiso, 297.

Jamacchppeke plant, 263.

Jamaica, discovery of, 16.

Jaques, Christovão, 32.

Jesuit missions in the Parana basin, 242-245.

Jews, in Patagonia, 225.

Jockey Club, Buenos Aires, 208-210.

Juliaca, town of, 334.

Junín, battle of, 132.

Jurujuba Bay, 163.

Karkaake, Mt., 258.

Koati, Island of, 57, 336.

Koebel, W. H., “Modern Argentina” by, 218.

La Condamine, explorer of Amazon, 138.

Ladrone Islands, discovery of, by Magellan, 28.

Lage, Fort, 163.

La Guayra, Venezuela, 407-408.

Landed estates of Spanish conquerors, 77, 82.

La Paz, naming of, 267-268;
altitude and location, 268;
description of, 268-270, 273-274.

La Plata, city of, 195, 197.

Lara, State of, 406.

Largo da Polvora, Belém, 151-152.

Las Cuevas, station of, 222.

La Serena, Chile, 287.

Lautero, Araucanian hero, 103, 107, 108;
death of, 108-109.

Lenglet, Dr., quoted, 255-256.

Leon, Cieza de, quoted, 55.

Liebig Company’s plant, Fray Bentos, 235-236.

Lima, founding of, by Pizarro, 74-75, 324;
attracts other Spanish adventurers, 75-76;
description of modern, 325-330.

Linseed, production of, in Argentina, 191.

Llamas, in Peru, 47, 340-342;
in Argentina, 216.

_Llanos_ of Venezuela, 418.

Llanquihue, Province of, 278.

Llulaillaco, Mt., 278.

Los Patos Pass, 279.

Lopez, Carlos Antonio, 249.

Lopez, Francisco, 249-251.

Luque, Hernando de, 38.

Macareo River, 416.

Mackenzie College, São Paulo, 179.

Magdalena River, 376;
scenery in valley of, 389-392.

Magellan, Ferdinand, voyage and discoveries of, 25-29.

Magellan, Strait of, 27-28, 225, 310-311.

Mahogany, from Colombia, 380.

Maize, production of, in Argentina, 191.

Manãos, city of, 144-146.

Manco Capac, 45, 69.

Manco Capac II, 69-70.

Mapocho River, 99.

Maracaibo, city of, 404-405.

Maracaibo, Gulf of, 404.

Maracaibo, Lake, 404;
asphalt on shores of, 419.

Maracaibo coffee, 404.

Markham, Sir Clements, quoted, 53-54, 55, 346-349.

Maule River, 97, 101.

Maypú, battle of, 126.

Mbaracayú Mountains, 241.

Medellín, Colombia, 397.

Meiggs, Henry, 331.

Meiggs, Mt., 331.

Mendoza, Pedro de, 113.

Mendoza, city of, 220-221.

Mendoza, Province of, 105.

Mendoza River, 221-222.

Mercedario, Mt., 281.

Mérida range, Venezuela, 404, 405.

Mexico, Cortés in, 30-31.

Michelena, Venezuelan artist, 413.

Minas Geraes, State of, 186-189.

Mineral resources, of Chile, 288;
of Peru, 315;
of Ecuador, 356;
of Colombia, 377-379.

Mining, in Brazil, 136;
in State of Minas Geraes, 187-189.

Miniquis, Mt., 257.

Miranda, Francisco, 130, 421.

Misiones territory of Argentina, 226, 227.

Misti, volcano, Peru, 334.

Mitré, Bartolomé, 197.

Mollendo, city of, 332.

Mompóz, Colombia, 397.

Monserrate, Mt., 385, 387.

Montaña region of Peru, 320, 321-322.

Monteagudo, Bernardo, 129.

Montesino, _Anales del Perú_ by, quoted, 40.

Montevideo, 229 ff.;
comparison with Buenos Aires, 230;
material prosperity of, 230-231;
foreigners, theaters, and club life of, 231;
the Prado Park, 231-232;
houses, gardens, and social life of, 232-234.

Montezuma, Señor, 31.

Moon, worship of, by Peruvian Indians, 50, 57-58, 335-336, 337.

Mosquera Rebellion, 389.

Mountain sickness, 266.

Mozans, H. J., quoted, 23-25, 45, 57, 70, 74-75, 140-141, 271-273, 333,
335-338, 349, 371-372.

Mules, in Argentina, 216;
in Uruguay, 235.

Muzo, emerald mines of, 377, 378, 379.

Nabuco, Joahim, 175.

Negro River, 144, 223.

New Granada, Viceroyalty of, 116, 384-385.

New Spain, Viceroyalty of, 114.

Newspapers of Buenos Aires, 204-205.

Nictheroy, city of, 163.

Nitrate of soda beds, Chile, 288-292.

Nombre de Dios, 118.

North Americans, small number of, in Buenos Aires, 203.

Obydos, city of, 146.

O’Higgins, Bernardo, 124, 125, 126, 279.

Oil, production of, in Argentina, 192.

Ojeda, Alonso de, 20, 37;
Venezuela named by, 402.

Olinda, suburb of Recife, 158.

Opera in Buenos Aires, 206.

Orellana, Francisco de, discovers and explores the Amazon, 82, 138.

Organ Mountains, 162.

Orgoñez, Rodrigo de, 81.

Oriente River system, 353.

Orinoco River, 401, 403;
delta of the, 415-416;
entrance upon, from the sea, 416-417.

Oroya Railroad, 330-331.

Orton, James, quoted, 354, 369.

Ossorio, General, 124-125.

Pacific Ocean, Balboa’s discovery of, 22-25;
named by Magellan, 28.

Paillamachu, Araucanian chief, 109-110.

Pampas of Argentina, 214 ff.

Pamplona, Colombia, 397.

Panamá Canal, importance of, to relations between the two Americas,
xv-xvii;
influence on trade between Venezuela and United States, 420.

Panamá hats, manufacture of, 359-360.

_Pan American Bulletin_, quoted, 288-290, 377-379, 419.

Pan American Union, vii-xi;
publications of, ix-x;
library of, x.

Pará (Belém), city of, 146-153.

Pará River, 137, 147-148.

Paraguay, situation and area, 239-240;
climate and surface features, 240-241;
forests, 241;
Indians and mestizos in, 242;
Jesuit missions in, 242-244;
character of interior, 244-245;
stormy political history of, 246-251;
great commercial possibilities of, 253.

Paraguay River, 245.

Paraguay tea, 185-186, 192, 253-256.

Paramaribo, Dutch Guiana, 428.

Paraná, city of, 195.

Paraná, River, Cabot’s exploration of, 32;
trip on the, 226-227;
picturesqueness of, 227;
Great Cataract of, 244-245.

Patagonia, 215, 218-219, 223-225.

Patia River, 376.

Pearl fisheries of Colombia, 35, 377.

Pedro II of Brazil, 174.

Pernambuco, city of, 154, 156-157.

Pernambuco, colony of, 34.

Peru, the ancient civilization of, 46-47 (_see under_ Incas);
War of Independence in, 126-128;
war with Chile over nitrate provinces, 292;
products of, in the world’s commerce, 315-316;
voyage along coast of, 316-318;
area, surface features, and rainfall, 320-322;
population and its disposition, 322-323;
railways, 330-332;
ruins of the Incas and their predecessors in, 339, 343-349.

Peru, Viceroyalty of, 114-116.

Peruvian bark, 263.

Petropolis, city of, 169-170.

Pezuela, Joaquín de la, 126-127.

Picacho, Mt., 407.

Pichincha, battle of, 131.

Pichincha, Mt., 369.

Pigs, in Argentina, 216;
in Uruguay, 235.

Pilcomayo River, 245.

Pillar, Cape, 310.

Pizarro, Francisco, early history of, 37;
first expedition of, to Peru, 38-42;
ennobled by the King of Spain, 42;
treacherous dealings of, with Atahualpa, 61-68;
murder of Atahualpa by, 68;
advances to and occupies Cuzco, 68-70;
takes possession of government, 72-73;
founds city of Lima as his capital, 74-75;
holds his new empire against Almagro, 80-81;
assassination of, by adherents of Almagro, 83-85;
tribute to great qualities of, 85;
relics of, in modern Lima, 327.

Pizarro, Gonzalo, 42, 78, 80, 81, 87-88, 90.

Pizarro, Hernando, 42, 75, 78, 80, 81.

Pizarro, Juan, 42, 78.

Plata River, 26, 191, 228-229.

Platinum deposits, Colombia, 377.

Pororoca, the, 147-148.

Portezuelo de Come Caballo, 279.

Porto Alegre, 153, 186.

Portuguese, as discoverers, 5-7;
lands granted to, in division of New World by papal bull, 14-15;
attempt to colonize Brazil, 32-34.

Potato, discovery of the, in Peru, 47.

Potatoes as a food among Peruvians, 342.

Potosí, silver mines of, 82, 88, 265, 266.

Prado Park, Montevideo, 231-232.

Precious stones, mining of, in Brazil, 189;
in Bolivia, 266;
in Colombia, 377-379.

_Prensa_ newspaper, building of, Buenos Aires, 204-205.

Prescott, W. H., quoted, 40-41, 69, 73-74, 343-346.

Promaucian Indians, 101.

Puente del Inca, 222.

Puerto Cabello, Venezuela, 406, 414.

Puerto Colombia, 396.

Pular, Mt., 278.

Puna, island of, 43.

Punta Arenas, city of, 224, 285, 311.

Quebracho tree, the, 226-227.

Quesada, Gonzalo Jiminez de, 92-96.

Quichua Indians, 47.

Quinine, production of, 263.

Quinsay, city of (Pekin), 9, 12, 15.

_Quintas_, in Montevideo, 232, 233.

Quinze Puntas range, 241.

Quito, 48, 363, 369, 372-374.

Quizquiz, Atahualpa’s general, 67, 70.

Rada, Juan de la, 83.

Railways, Brazilian, 153-154;
Argentine, 191, 220;
English capital invested in Argentina, 197-198;
trans-Andine, 222-223, 280;
of Uruguay, 234;
Bolivian, 261;
Peruvian, 330-332;
of Ecuador, 363;
of Colombia, 381-382;
of Venezuela, 409.

Ramalho, João, 33.

Ranches, Argentine, 214-219.

Recife, city of, 153, 157-158.

_Repartimientos_ of the Spanish conquerors, 82, 86.

Revolutions, outgrowing of, xiii.

Ringmann, Mathias, 21.

Riobamba, city of, 370.

Rio Branco, Baron, 174-175.

Rio de Janeiro, 153;
the approach to, 160-164;
scenic wonders of bay of, 160-164;
description of city, 164 ff.

Rio Grande do Sul, production of _yerba maté_ in, 185-186.

Rio Negro, Territory of, 224.

Rodadero River, 343.

Rojas, Diego de, 112.

Root, Elihu, quoted, 177.

Rosario, city of, 195, 226.

Rosario College, Bogotá, 389.

Rubber, production of, in Brazil, 136-137.

Rubber estate, description of a, 149-150.

Rubber trees, 143.

Ruhl, Arthur, quoted, 169, 173-176, 303-305.

Ruins, prehistoric, 46;
of Tiahuanaco, 48, 271-273;
about Lake Titicaca, 338-339;
of Sacsahuaman, 343, 346-349.

Sabanilla, 391, 392.

Sacsahuaman, ruins of, 52, 78, 343, 346-349.

St. Julian, harbor of, 26.

St. Louis, French Guiana, 428.

Salt mines of Colombia, 377.

Salta, battle of, 123.

San Francisco Xavier, University of, 267.

Sangai, Mt., 366.

San José, Mt., 278.

San Lazaro, Church of, in Cuzco, 350.

San Marcos, University of, 330.

San Martín, General José de, 123-124;
crossing of the Andes by, 125-126, 279;
defeats Royalist army in Chile, 126;
liberates Peru from Spanish rule, 127-128;
voluntary retirement of, 129-130;
tomb of, in Buenos Aires, 130.

San Miguel, Gulf of, 23.

San Rafael Lake, 285.

San Ruiz, Mt., 391.

San Salvador, Island of, 12.

Santa Candelaria, convent of, Cartagena, 396.

Santa Catalina, convent of, in Cuzco, 350.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia, 261.

Santa Cruz, Fort, 163.

Santa Cruz, Territory of, 224.

Santa Lucia, hill and fortress of, 99-100, 301.

Santa Marta, Colombia, 90.

Santarem, city of, 146.

Santiago, Chile, founding of, by Valdivia, 99-100;
mentioned, 287;
description of, 299-307.

Santo Domingo, convent of, in Cuzco, 350.

Santos, city of, 153, 176, 181-182.

San Valentín, Mt., 284.

São João, Fort, 163.

São Leopoldo, city of, 186.

São Luiz de Maranhão, 154, 155.

São Paulo, city of, 176-181.

São Salvador da Bahia, 34, 153, 154, 159-160.

São Vicente, colony of, 33.

Sarmiento, Domingo Faustino, 197.

Sarmiento, Mt., 311-313.

Scots, in Patagonia, 224.

Scruggs, William L., on Colombia’s commercial possibilities, 398-399.

Sheep-raising, Rio Grande do Sul, 186;
in Argentina, 191, 216;
in Patagonia, 224-225;
in Uruguay, 235.

Silla, Cordillera de la, 406.

Silver, from Mt. Potosí, 265.
_See_ Mineral resources.

Sinu River, 380.

Slavery, reduction of Peruvian Indians to, by the Spanish, 77;
introduction of negro, 403.

Socompa, Mt., 278.

Solis, Juan Diaz de, 22, 113, 236.

Solis Theater, Montevideo, 231.

Sorata, Mt., 258.

Souza, Martim Affonso da, 33.

Spain, mistaken colonial policy of, in South America, 113-120;
revolt of South American countries against, 120-121.

Spaniards, numbers of, in Buenos Aires, 203.

Spanish Main, the, 402.

Squier, E. G., quoted, 271.

Steamships, German, at Buenos Aires, 200;
on Paraná River, 226.

Sucré, Antonio José de, 131, 132, 259, 266.

Sucré, city of, 266-267.

Sugar, beginnings of production of, in Brazil, 34.

Sugar Loaf, peak of, bay of Rio de Janeiro, 162.

Sun, worship of, by Peruvian Indians, 50, 57-58, 335-336, 337.

Surinam, 426.

Tabatinga, Brazilian port, 138.

Tacna, Province of, 287, 290.

Talca, truce of, 124.

Tapajos River, 146.

Tarapacá, Province of, 287, 290.

Tehuelche Indians, 224.

Temple of the Incas at Cuzco, 52-53.

Tensaquilla, village of, 385.

Theater, the Amazonas, at Manãos, 145-146;
the Municipal, Rio de Janeiro, 166;
at São Paulo, 180;
the Solis, in Montevideo, 231.

Theaters, at Belém, 152;
in Buenos Aires, 206, 207.

Tiahuanaco, ruins of, 48, 272-273.

Tierra del Fuego, 225, 285, 311.

Tin, wealth of Bolivia in, 265.

Titicaca, Island of, 57, 336.

Titicaca, Lake, 45, 57, 258, 335-338.

Tobacco from Province of Esmeraldas, Ecuador, 358.

Tolima, volcano, Colombia, 385, 391.

Tonka beans, Colombia, 380.

Toparca Capac, 69.

Tordesillas, treaty of, 15.

Toroni, Mt., 278.

Torre Tagle, Marquis of, 129.

Toscanelli, letters of, quoted, 8-9.

Trade, restrictions placed on South American, by Spain, 118-120;
of United States of Brazil, 135-136;
of Argentina, 191-192.
_See also_ Commerce.

Trans-Andean railway, 222, 280.

Trees, of Brazil, 142, 143;
in Montevideo parks, 231-232;
of southern Chile, 286-287, 309-310;
of Ecuador, 355-356, 363-364.

Trinidad, Island of, 16, 415, 419.

Trombetas River, 146.

Tronador, Mt., 284.

Tucapel, Araucanian chief, 103, 106.

Tucumán, battle of, 123.

Tucumán, city of, 195.

Tumbéz, Peru, 39, 41, 324.

Tunguragua, Mt., 366.

Tupungato, Mt., 281.

Ucayali River, 322.

United States, trade between Brazil and, 136;
smallness of commerce of, with Argentina, 201;
fewness of people from, in Buenos Aires, 203;
commerce between Chile and, 277;
trade of, with Colombia, 398;
trade with Venezuela, 419.

Universities in Argentina, 198.

University, San Francisco Xavier, Sucré, 267;
San Marcos, 330.

Uruguay, 228 ff.;
life in Montevideo, 229-234;
nature of the country, 234-235;
commerce of, 235;
favorable conditions of, for national prosperity, 236;
turbulent political history of, 236-237;
bellicose personality and present-day outlets for, 237-238;
political factions in, 238.

Uruguay River, 32, 228, 234, 235.

Uspallata Pass, 222, 279-280.

Valdivia, Pedro de, conquest of Chile undertaken by, 82, 97-107;
put to death by Araucanians, 107.

Valdivia, town of, 109.

Valencia, city and lake of, 406, 414.

Valera, Father Blas, cited, 58.

Valle, Marquis del, 31.

Valparaiso, 101, 287, 296-299.

Valverde, Friar Vincente de, 64.

Vargas Hospital, Caracas, 413.

Vega, Garcilaso de la, quoted, 52-53, 58, 61, 335.

Vela, Blasco Nuñez, 87.

Velasco, Juan de, 370.

Venezuela, location and topography, 400-401;
area, 401-402;
naming of, 402;
coastwise approach to, 403-404;
towns and cities, 405-413;
earthquakes in, 413;
the Orinoco delta and river, 415-417;
the _llanos_, 418;
agricultural products, 418-419;
commerce of, 419;
government, 420-421;
statesmen and rulers of, 421-423.

Vernon, Admiral, siege of Cartagena by, 393-394.

Vespucci, Amerigo, voyages of, 18-19;
the _Mundus Novus_ of, 20;
the naming of the New World for, 20-21;
later explorations by, 22.

Viceroyalties of New Spain and Peru, 114-116.

Victoria, city of, 154.

Vilcapujio, battle of, 123.

Villagran, Francisco de, 107-108.

Villa Hayes, 240.

Villegagnon, settlement at, 168.

Viña del Mar, 296, 299.

Virgins, Cape, 27.

Virgins of the Sun, 52, 57;
palace of, at Cajamarca, 65.

Volcanoes, of Chile, 278;
of Colombia, 385;
of Ecuador, 365-372.

Waldseemüller map, 21.

Washington, Col. Lawrence, 394.

Watling’s Island, 12.

“Westward Ho!” reminders of, 408.

Wheat, production of, in Argentina, 192;
harvesting of, in Argentina, 216;
production in Uruguay, 235.

Wheelwright, William, 201.

Whymper, Edward, ascent of Ecuadorian peaks by, 365, 367;
quoted on the crater of Cotopaxi, 368.

Wine industry, Mendoza, 221.

Women, Brazilian, 171-173;
of Buenos Aires, 210;
of Mendoza, 221;
of Montevideo, 234;
of Santiago, 303, 304;
of Lima, 328, 329.

Wright, Marie Robinson, quoted, 187, 188, 299-300.

Yavarí River, 322.

Yegros, General, 246, 247.

_Yerba maté_, production of, in Rio Grande do Sul, 185-186;
in Argentina, 192;
in Paraguay, 253-256;
cultivation of, 254-255;
beneficial results from, 255-256.

Ypiranga, building in São Paulo, 178.

Yupanqui, Inca ruler, 45, 48.

Zamora, State of, Venezuela, 406.

Zaruma, mines of, 356.

Zenufana, region called, 91.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Transcriber’s note:

Front matter, comma inserted after ‘Postage,’ “Postage, 20 cents.”

Front matter, ‘O’HIGGINSS’ changed to ‘O’HIGGINS’S,’ “OF O’HIGGINS’S CAVALRY LEAPED”

Page 87, ‘Conquisitadores’ changed to ‘Conquistadores,’ “in trouble with the Conquistadores,”

Page 192, ‘mate’ changed to ‘maté,’ “grapes, fruits, yerba maté (Paraguay”

Page 383, ‘well built’ changed to ‘well-built,’ “with well-built houses and farm”

Page 391, ‘Giradot’ changed to ‘Girardot,’ “from Bogotá to Girardot”

Page 394, ‘corral’ changed to ‘coral,’ “yellow-white coral laid in”

Page 398, double quote inserted before ‘is,’ “he continues, “is at our very doors”

Index M, ‘Medellén’ changed to ‘Medellín,’ “Medellín, Colombia, 397.”

End of Project Gutenberg's Through South America, by Harry Weston Van Dyke

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Through South AmericaChapter XII: The Guianas

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