Chapter IV: Part 4

--to Badia a Prataglia, a rising summer resort, _Albergo Mulinacci_, and at Boscoverde, 2700 ft., a summer pension, 10 miles. Diligence from Bibbiena, 2 lire; one-horse carriage, 8 lire. The road follows the valley of the Archiano and passes Camprena. The ruins of Gressa (formerly of the bishops of Arezzo and taken by the Florentines in 1259) and of Marciano (granted to Badia a Prataglia in 1084) are visible on the right. At Partina are ruins of a castle held by the Guidi till 1389. Serravalle, with its tower of 1188, is visible on the left. A driving road leading up to it from beyond the bridge is in course of construction, and several new villas have been built near the old village. The Archiano is here joined by the Fosso of Camaldoli. A path this side of the bridge leads along the valley to Camaldoli. Another path further up over the hills also leads through the woods to Camaldoli. Badia a Prataglia, founded about the year 980, was associated with Camaldoli in the twelfth century, and for a time suppressed. The church has an interesting crypt with romanesque columns, now used as a wood store. The old monastery adjoining the church is now a private villa. Beyond Badia the road ascends, and from the height of the pass Bagno in Romagna is visible. From Badia to Bagno 10, to Forli 58 miles. Interesting short walks to the confluence of the Arno and Archiano, and to Memmenano, where is a fine _della Robbia_.

* * * * *

=Poppi= lies on a hill, fifteen minutes’ walk from the station. The castle is being restored. It is the work of Jacopo Lapo. On the top of the staircase Count Guido of Battifolle. The chapel contains frescoes attributed to Spinello Aretino and Jacopo da Casentino, and other fresco decorations have been uncovered in the dining hall. In the church of the Augustinians a poor _della Robbia_. Another _della Robbia_ outside the Casa Bremasole. The parochial church, beautifully situated, contains several good paintings, including a Virgin of Franciabigio, others attributed to Guido da Siena, and the head of St Torello, the patron saint of the district, in silver gilt casing.

Excursions from Poppi.

--to Camaldoli by road 8 miles. One-horse carriage, 7-10 lire. In summer months a diligence. The older bad road is by Lierna, the new one leaves Ragginopoli to the right. Both contain ruins of strongholds owned by the Guidi. The monastery of Camaldoli lies in a wooded valley on a rocky slope of the Apennines. A few of the more aged and infirm monks remain here, but the greater part of the monastery is turned into a hotel, _Grande Albergo_, with every comfort. The monastery founded by St Romuald in 1018 was destroyed by fire in 1203, but the old convent court remains unchanged. It owned an early printing press, and the famous _Annali Camaldolensi_, 907-1764, were written here. The church, which was injured in 1498 when the monastery was besieged by the Duke of Urbino, was rebuilt in 1523, and contains three paintings by Vasari. It was restored 1772-1776. The monastery was suppressed in 1866 and belongs to the Woods and Forest Department of the State. The majority of the monks have retired to the hermitage. This lies three-quarters of an hour up the glen above the convent, along a paved path, at a height of 3700 ft. Visitors are shown over the church and the cell of St Romuald by one of the monks. Beyond the hermitage a path leads to the Prato al Soglio, fine and extensive view, and across the hills to Badia a Prataglia. In the opposite direction a footpath to Lonnano and Poppiena. Fine walk along the ridge to Monte Falterona.

--to Fronzola, with the remains of a castle besieged by Count Simone of Battifolle in 1344. The road leads on to Raggiolo.

--to Borgo alla Collina and Strada San Niccolo (inn). The road follows the valley and crosses Campaldino, the site of the famous battle. At Certomondo there is a church and cloister of the fifteenth century. Near here were found Etruscan remains in 1846. The road to the Consuma Pass diverges to the left. Borgo alla Collina (inn), six miles from Poppi, has an old church containing a Virgin and saints of 1423. The new church contains the body of Cristofero Landini, Chancellor of the Republic of Florence. From the road extensive views of the valley. To the left a road leads to Strada. Interesting church of San Martino in Vado with many curious column capitals, similar in style to those of Romena and Stia. On the further side of the river lies the ruined Castel S. Niccolo, one of the great strongholds of the Guidi, with church, also in ruins. A road diverges to the right to Cajano. Of the Castle of Battifolle only a few stones are left. From Cajano the paved road in a steep ascent reaches the high road between Casaccia and Consuma. From Strada the road along the Scheggia ends in a path by which it is possible to reach Montemignajo, a stronghold of the Guidi, of which the tower, a vast cistern, and part of the walls are left. In the church of Santa Maria, are column capitals, similar in style to those of Romena, etc. To reach Montemignajo driving, it is necessary to drive almost to the height of the pass between Casaccia and Consuma, branching off to the left. From Montemignajo a rough path leads to the Croce Vecchia and on to Vallombrosa.

--to Pratovecchio (6 miles) the road follows the valley of the Arno. The place, large and rambling, is closely connected with the history of the Guidi. There are extant the ruins of towers and remains of the ancient walls and fortifications. The convent church of the Dominican nuns contains several seventeenth century paintings. From Pratovecchio three different paths, the one _via_ Lonnano, the other _via_ Casalino, the third _via_ Moggiona, lead to Camaldoli.

* * * * *

=Stia= lies on the confluence of the Staggia and the Arno. The church (La Pieve) is of the twelfth century, partly modernised, but contains interesting round arches and carved column capitals. It is said to have been built by Countess Matelda. In the church several _della Robbias_. In the town hall a beautiful _della Robbia_. Also in the _Oratorio della Madonna del Ponte_ a polychrome _della Robbia_. In the bed of a small lake north-east of Stia, during the drought of 1838, were discovered many Etruscan antiquities.

Excursions from Stia and Pratovecchio.

--to Monte Falterona (5434 ft.) about four hours. Guide advisable (5 frs.). The usual way is by Porciano, an ancient stronghold of the Guidi. From here following the path in a northerly direction to the Capo d’Arno, from where by a steep ascent to the refuge _Ricovero Dante_ built by the Italian Alpine Club. (The key procurable at the house of Signor Beni at Stia, or of the Secretary of the Club at Florence.) In the club hut only bare bedsteads. On a clear day the view extends to the Adriatic and the Tyrrhenian. From Falterona a splendid walk along the mountain ridge to Camaldoli.

--to Santa Maria delle Grazie, at one time a dependency of Vallombrosa, sometimes called Vallombrosella. The church, beautifully situated, dates from the end of fifteenth century. Some good pictures and several beautiful _della Robbias_. The ruins of Castel Castagnajo, and of Campo Lombardo, strongholds of the Guidi, are seen on the further side of the river. A path leads on to the mountain village Vallucciole. Another road along the valley of the Staggia leads to Gaviserri branching off to the left to Papiano, near which are the ruins of Urbech, a stronghold of the Guidi.

--to the Castle and Church of Romena along the road which joins the main road over the Consuma. The Castle ruins are in a commanding position and are visible from afar. The site in 1034 was in the power of Count Guido Alberti of Spoleto, and passed into the family of the Guidi through marriage. It passed to Florence in 1357. An inscription records Dante’s stay here during his exile. Half a mile below lie the ruins of the church, built in 1152, as mentioned on one of the column capitals. The road passes Fonte Branda. The church, which contains some good paintings, has been restored. Beyond Romena the road returns to the main road which rises to Omo Morto, a heap of stones that is popularly associated with Maestro Adamo of Brescia, and beyond to Casaccia and the pass over the Consuma.

INDEX

Adamo of Brescia, 118, 141.

Ampère, _Voyages dantesques_, 11, 122.

Apennines, 57, 77 ff.

Archiano, 57, 78, 109, 136.

Arezzo, trains from, 133.

Arno, valley of the, 1;
sources of, 113 ff.

Arnolfo Lapo, 110.

Badia a Prataglia, 10, 85, 87;
inns at and situation, 136.

Badia a Tega, 10.

Bagno, 56, 68, 136.

Battifolle, 90;
ruins of, 139.

Beni, guide book of, 49, 125;
address of, 141.

Bibbiena, 2, 13 ff.;
market-place, 14;
inns at and excursions from, 134.

Bibbiena, Cardinal, 13, 17, 21 ff.

Borgo alla Collina, 122;
situation of, 138.

Boscoverde, pension at, 136.

Buonconte, killed at Campaldino, 114, 117.

Cajano, 139.

_Calandra_, 26 ff.

Camaldoli, 2, 51 ff.;
views of, 53, 73;
landmark of, 76;
approaches of, 133, 136;
inns at and excursions from, 137;
paths to, 140.

Campaldino, 114, 120, 138.

Campi, 134.

Campo Lombardo, 141.

Camprena, 55.

Capo d’Arno, 113 ff.;
paths to, 140.

Cappella degli Uccelli, 134.

Caprera, 135.

Casaccia, 131, 139.

Casalino, 140.

Castel Castagnajo, 141.

Castel San Niccolo, 139;
view of, 123.

Castiglione on Cardinal Bibbiena, 22 ff.

Certomondo, 139.

Chiusi di Casentino, 135.

Consuma, 107, 121, etc.;
driving road over, 133;
paths leading to, 134, 139, 141.

_Conversations of Camaldoli_, 80 ff.

Corsalone, 35, 134.

_Cortegiano, il_, 24 ff.

Dante, on the Guidi, 7;
connection with the Guidi, 93, 113 ff.;
on St Francis, 44;
on St Romuald, 10.

Della Robbia, at Bibbiena, 17, 134;
at La Verna (frontispiece), 46, 49, 134;
at Memmenano, 137;
at Poppi, 137;
at Santa Maria, 141;
at Stia, 140.

Divizio, Angelo, 32;
Bernardo, _see_ Bibbiena, Cardinal.

Eremo, 63, 78 ff., 138.

Etruscan remains, 2, 18, 139.

Faenza at war with Guidi, 105.

Falterona, 1, 113, 125;
ascent of, 140.

Fedele of Strumi, 129.

Florence at war with Guidi, 105.

Fonte Branda, 63, 142.

Forli, road to, 101, 137.

Fosso of Camaldoli, 78, 136.

Francis, St, 5, 10, 11, 33 ff.;
portrait of (frontispiece).

Fronzola, 138.

Gaviserri, 141.

Gherardesca, Countess, 116, 117.

Giovio on Cardinal Bibbiena, 22, 29.

Gisla, Countess, 94.

Gressa, 55, 136.

Gualdrada, Countess, 95, 104 ff.

Guidi, Counts, 90 ff.;
Guido, 95;
Guido _il Marchese_, 97, 102;
Guidoguerra, 98, 101;
Guido Vecchio, 104, 106;
Guido Magnifico, 106;
Guido Novello, 106 ff.;
Guido Selvatico, 113;
Guido of Battifolle, 115,
his portrait, 109;
Guido Novello the younger, 115;
Tegrimo, 94;
Tegrimo Bevisangue, 94;
Tegrimo of Modigliana, 107;
Simone of Battifolle, 48, 106, 135;
Alessandro of Romena, 117 ff.;
Oberto and Guido of Romena, 118;
arms of, 112.

Jacopo del Casentino, 46, 111, 137.

Jacopo Lapo, 110, 137.

Landini, Cristofero, 11, 80 ff.;
relic of, 139.

La Verna, 5, 11, 33 ff.;
views of, 3, 34, 43;
description of, 134.

Lierna, 137.

Lonnano, 138, 140.

Maccia del Uomo Morto, 118.

Madonna del Sasso, 35, 134.

Maldolo, Count, 71.

Malespini on Guidi, 95.

Manessa, Countess, 114, 117.

Marciano, 55, 136.

Mariotto, 82.

Matelda, Countess, 96, 97, 140.

Medici in the Casentino, 21, 81 ff.;
princess at Eremo, 77.

Memmenano, 137.

Moggiona, 140.

Mona Giovanna, 128.

Montemignajo, 97, 139.

Orlando, Count, 46.

Ortignano, 135.

Otto of Freysing on Guidi, 101.

Ozanam on St Francis, 40, 41.

Pappiano, 141.

Passerini on Guidi, 119.

Penna, 33, 50;
ascent of, 135.

Peter Damian, 64, 65.

Pontassieve, inns at, 133.

Poppi, 75, 89, 90 ff.;
views of, 91, 99, 109;
inns at, 134;
excursions from, 137.

Poppiena, 138.

Porciano, 90, 95, etc.

Prato al Soglio, 85, 138.

Pratomagno, 18, 76;
ascent of, 135.

Pratovecchio, 46, 113, 125;
inns at, 134;
excursions from, 140.

Ragginopoli, 136.

Raggiolo, 135, 138.

Romena, 90, 97, 98;
view of, 114;
ways to, 141.

Romuald, St, 5, 10, 51 ff., 80, etc.

Ruskin on St Francis, 39, 41.

Sacchetti on Countesses at Poppi, 117.

Saltino, hotels at, 133.

San Martino di Vado, 97, 139.

Santa Maria delle Grazie, 141.

Sasso Spicco, 135.

Scheggia, 139.

Serravalle, 59, 85, 89, 136.

Soci, 55, 56, 57, 90.

Solano, 97, 121.

Staggia, 125, 141.

Stia, 97, 125, 133;
inns at, 134;
excursions from, 140.

Strava San Niccolo, 121;
situation of, 138.

Strumi, 94, 129.

Tarlati, 20, 22;
of Pietramala, 56.

Teggina, 135.

Tolosanus on Guidi, 101.

Torello, St, 129 ff., 137.

Urbech, 141.

Vallombrosa, inns at, 134.

Vallucciole, 141.

Vasari, 46, 89, 90, 110, 138.

Villani, 95, 109, 116.

THE END

_Colston & Coy., Limited, Printers, Edinburgh_

* * * * *

A LIST OF DENT’S

COUNTY GUIDES

EDITED BY GEORGE A. B. DEWAR.

In issuing this series of books the publishers believe that they are making a departure, no less welcome than needful, from the usual lines on which such Handbooks are compiled. What they have endeavoured to do for the historic Towns of Europe in their “Mediæval Town Series,” they now hope to accomplish for the Counties of England, by presenting their unrivalled attractions in such a way as shall no longer make a guide-book a weariness to the flesh.

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LIST OF VOLUMES

_Each with numerous Topographical Illustrations, Sectional Plans accompanying the Itineraries, and a County Map. Fcap. 8vo (convenient for the pocket), cloth gilt, tinted edges, 4s. 6d. net per volume._

THE LAKE COUNTIES. By W. G. COLLINGWOOD, with Special Articles on:
Birds, by MARY L. ARMITT; Butterflies and Moths, by Canon CREWDSON;
Flora, by S. L. PETTY; Geology, by Prof. E. HULL, LL.D.;
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RUMNEY.

[_Spring, 1902._

SURREY. By WALTER JERROLD, with Special Articles on: Birds, by J.
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Rev. J. VERNON; Geology, by Prof. EDWARD HULL, LL.D.; Cycling, by
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NORFOLK. By WILLIAM A. DUTT, with Special Articles on: Birds, by
Rev. R. C. NIGHTINGALE; Botany, by H. D. GELDART; Entomology, by
CLAUDE MORLEY, F.E.S.; Geology, by F. W. HARMER, F.G.S.; Shooting
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HAMPSHIRE WITH THE ISLE OF WIGHT.

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_Times._--“The authors have done their work extremely well, ... an
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* * * * *

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J. M. DENT & CO., BEDFORD STREET, LONDON, W.C.