Chapter I: Preface

Nigeria is in process of change, in some places rapid change. Since this book has been written Southern and Northern Nigeria have been amalgamated administratively. The two colonies, or protectorates, whichever title be preferred, are being unified. The public service have been fused. What were the Lagos Government Railway, the Baro-Kano Railway and the Bauchi Light Railway recently received the comprehensive designation of Nigerian Railways. The volume was in too advanced a condition for the alterations to be made; and perhaps use of the old names will give a better idea of the efforts to open up the youngest dependency brought under the Crown.

Linking rich Southern Nigeria with her Northern sister provides money for railway and other development, which is to be pushed on vigorously. Many of the conditions of the country must necessarily alter. The locomotive is to whistle through regions where few white men have trod. Wild areas are to be penetrated by trains. Naturally the character of the inhabitants will be affected: no doubt many superstitious rites and, incidentally, cruelty and inhumanity in social customs be dispelled. Pagans will catch the passing fashions, or an imitation, and clothe, or at least cover, themselves.

These and other material benedictions are sure to radiate from the emblems of civilisation. Let us hope we shall not also be the means of dispensing many of the blessings taken by Europeans to the Coast towns of West Africa in former centuries and in evidence to-day by the moral and physical degeneration of adult natives, as well as by children saturated with hereditary disease.

Contact with aborigines may be a very fine thing for them. Let care be taken that their second state is not worse than the first. That is likely to be avoided if the policy followed by Sir George Taubman Goldie and Sir Frederick Lugard with the Fulani and the Hausa population of Northern Nigeria be scrupulously continued: that of encouraging and fostering all which is good in tribal life, repressing only those features which violate the principles of human existence.

No attempt has been made in the following pages at an historical survey or at a deep examination of the difficult problems that confront the administration. There are a number of books in which both subjects are treated excellently. Recent ones occurring to mind are Lady Lugard’s, “A Tropical Dependency”; Colonel Mockler-Ferryman’s, “British Nigeria”; Captain Orr’s, “The Making of Northern Nigeria”; Mr E. D. Morel’s, “Nigeria: Its People and Problems”; and the several publications of Major Tremearne.

This volume is no more than impressions taken from a quiver of them gained in the course of a rather long visit, part of it through country not well known. Most chapters were written during the journey, either at the close of a day’s trek or whilst detained at various spots.

My obligations are manifold for the courtesy, kindness and assistance shown in various quarters. If all to whom I feel indebted were stated several pages would be required.

I cannot, however, allow the volume to go to Press without again tendering thanks to my former Editor and present friend, Mr Leo. Weinthal, of _The African World_, for the opportunity given to carry out the expedition and for allowing me to incorporate in these pages matter printed in his paper; Sir Walter Egerton and Sir Hesketh Bell, ex-Governors respectively of Southern and Northern Nigeria, for the letters of introduction which proved an open sesame to the good-will of the high officials administrating each colony; Mr F. Seton James, C.M.G., and Mr A. G. Boyle, C.M.G., both of whom in the course of my stay were in turn Acting Governors of Southern Nigeria; Mr F. W. Waller, Acting General Manager, Lagos Government Railway; Mr Charles L. Temple, C.M.G., Acting Governor of Northern Nigeria; Captain G. C. Kelly, temporarily in command of the 1st Battalion Northern Nigeria Regiment; Captain C. F. S. Maclaverty, in charge of the Battery; Mr C. Maclean, Agent of the Niger Company at Zungeru; Mr E. M. Bland, Deputy Director of Railways, Northern Nigeria; Mr Joseph E. Trigge, Managing Director of the Niger Company; the late Mr Walter Watts, its Agent General; Mr Robert Lenthall, also Agent General of same Company; Mr W. P. Byrd, and Captain J. J. Brocklebank, D.S.O., of Kano, and also my native friends of that city, Adamu Ch’Kardi and Suly; Mr F. Beckles Gall, Resident at Naragutu; Mr F. D. Bourke, Manager of Naragutu Tin Mine; Mr S. E. M. Stobart, Resident at Bukuru; Mr T. H. Driver, Manager of the Anglo-Continental Mines; Mr A. C. Francis, Acting Resident at Zaria; Major E. M. Baker, temporarily in command of the 2nd Battalion Northern Nigeria Regiment; Mr W. H. Hibbert, of Lokoja; Mr Bertram D. Byfield, Cantonment Magistrate there; and Mr A. E. Price, of Burutu. Although not strictly within the scope of this book, I add Mr J. B. McDowell, Managing Director of the British and Colonial Kinematograph Company, who gave special care and attention to the apparatus and material which enabled me to bring back unique moving pictures of people in whose country no instrument of the kind had ever been taken.

J. R. R.

CONTENTS

PAGE

CHAPTER I

OUTWARD BOUND

Call of the Coast—Mal-de-mer—Coasters afloat—From 78° to
90°—The Kru sailor—His civilised degeneration—Laundryman’s
discipline—A dangerous stretch—The skipper—From ship to train 1

CHAPTER II

FROM THE COAST BY TRAIN—THE WEST AFRICAN PULLMAN

Iddo Wharf—Strange sights and
thoughts—Umbrellas—“Niggers”—Train luxuries—Liquor permits—The
iron-horse at the Niger—Ferry and bridge—Budget details 12

CHAPTER III

ZUNGERU—THE CAPITAL OF THE PROTECTORATE

A garden-city Capital—“Ikey” square—Autocracy
thorough—Circumscribed accommodation and doubled-up
quarters—Young administrators—Strict, stern, severe economy—The
Governor’s “Palace”—Job-lot furniture—His Excellency’s
1s.-an-hour, Bank-Holiday motor-car—Pooh-Bah Cantonment
Magistrate 19

CHAPTER IV

ZUNGERU—THE CAPITAL OF THE PROTECTORATE—(_continued_)

Native settlement—Rents and Treasury—A model prison—Northern
Nigeria Constabulary—Mails paid time-work—Sport at the
door—Up-country and Coast natives—Selection of Zungeru—The
future Capital 33

CHAPTER V

ZUNGERU TO KANO

Everybody his own porter—Religion and missions—Divining
water—Carriages patchy in parts—Native passengers—In the
track of the slave-raider—Engine sustenance—Kaduna Bridge—A
tight-rope performance—Close cultivation—“The lazy negro”—Two
civilisations—At Kano 43

CHAPTER VI

ARRIVAL AT KANO

Plans and expectations—Small water-famine—The handy man—Change
of quarters—Ants as sauce—Niger Company 57

CHAPTER VII

FASHIONS, GOVERNMENT, ADMINISTRATION

An Empire builder—The country and population—Hausa
tribes—Moslem and Pagan—Sartorial distinctions—Ruling through
natives—Election of their own rulers—Lugard’s peaceful
persuasion—A modern Earl of Warwick—The genius of Taubman
Goldie and Lugard—Native administration—Residents—Taxation—Law
Courts 63

CHAPTER VIII

KANO PROVINCE AND CITY—BRITISH TRADE PROSPECTS

Town and country—Officials and traders—Belgravia and
Bermondsey—A housekeeping budget—European stores—Buying and
selling—A Syrian in the fold 72

CHAPTER IX

A GENTLEMAN ADVENTURER

The London and Kano Trading Company—The Captain
intervenes—Army, Civil Service, Commerce—Discarding
appearances—Contrast of mansions—The pleasure of
business—“Traders” and others 80

CHAPTER X

KANO CITY

The founder—Hunter and prophet, too—The city wall—Warfare and
slave hunts—Provocation and defiance to the British—The Emir’s
challenge—March on the city—First check—Renewed attempt—Entry—A
new ruler 86

CHAPTER XI

KANO CITY—(_continued_)

Houses and rents—From 1s. 6d. to £5 a year—Mud mansions—No. 1
Kano—When to build and repair—Advice on building—A contract and
a surprise 93

CHAPTER XII

KANO MARKET

A cosmopolitan rendezvous—Arab merchants—The desert route and
the iron-horse—War and commerce—Local industries—Arts and
crafts—Skilled workers—Camels, cattle, sheep, horses—Pitiful
brute suffering—An appeal 100

CHAPTER XIII

KANO MARKET AND CITY—(_continued_)

Deference to the Englishman—A sagacious policy—Administration
of justice—An Alkali’s judgment—The native Treasury—Kano
municipality—Money matters 112

CHAPTER XIV

SOME ASPECTS OF SOCIAL LIFE

Wives of the upper-class—Women and the mosques—Polygamy—Its
difficulties in the home-circle—How to maintain peace—Hints
on management of the feminine character—A domestic
diplomat—Slavery—The former and the present position—Status of
a slave 119

CHAPTER XV

THE MISSIONARY QUESTION

Missions and Moslems—Strong comments—Bearings of the
situation—Present practice—The British solemn promise—The
alternative 125

CHAPTER XVI

THE BAUCHI LIGHT RAILWAY

Zaria and other stations—The two gauges—Through new
country—Second-hand rails—A new post for Sir Frederick Lugard—A
relic of tribal warfare—Sport for the gun—A derailment—Blend of
tongues—Smart re-railing work 130

CHAPTER XVII

AT RAHAMA RAILHEAD

Engaging carriers—How to facilitate getting away—Hausa horse
coupers and political economy—Bullock transport—Donkey
carriage—The man who belies a fable 139

CHAPTER XVIII

ON TREK—RAHAMA TO JUGA

Heavyweight and overweight—The white barred—Collective
displeasure—Getting off—A doki boy—Tin-mine pilgrims—A
scion of royalty—The rest-house—Village elders—Acrobatic
horsemanship—The carriers—Headman Hanza—Over the edge of the
Pagan belt 146

CHAPTER XIX

RAHAMA TO JUGA—(_continued_)

Stopped by a stream—A volunteer—Amadu the carrier—Sun
heat—Across the river—“Kow abinshi”—The doki boy’s
experiment—The climate and granite—Domestic details on trek—A
chilling downpour—Mark Tapleys—Sun and warmth—Hanza’s command—A
dignified procession 156

CHAPTER XX

JUGA TO NARAGUTA

Native feminality and the cavalry spirit—Scarcity and economy—A
house of straw—Carriers, professional and other—Diversified
panorama—Parting with the first carriers 169

CHAPTER XXI

TWO SHORT JOURNEYS

Man proposes—A narrow river barrier—Travellers this side of
the stream; beds, the other side—Pagan cultivation—A postal
description—Headmen and Headmen—Gotum Karo 175

CHAPTER XXII

THE NIGER COMPANY’S JOS CENTRE

Jos and St Peter’s—A wet and dry object—Fashion in
stationery—Smoking and writing materials—The cost of money—Coin
in transit—Tin-mine labourers and food—Inception of European
transport—Linguistic stimulus and aptitude—Donkey caravans—The
animals’ acumen—Double-distilled philosophy 181

CHAPTER XXIII

MINES—MEDICAL

Tin-mining—First Exclusive Prospecting Licence—Early
tin-winning—Mr Law’s work—Health and economics—Feminine
nursing—The medical service 194

CHAPTER XXIV

A MURDER TRIAL

Mining licences and leases—The Government Inspector of
Mines—Nine years without doors—Two Residents—Poisoned arrow
welcome—A murder trial 202

CHAPTER XXV

TROUBLES OF THE TREK

Philosophers’ test—At the back of white men’s minds—Human
calculations—Blows to plans—Oje leaves—The servant
problem—Short, severe rations—Doki boy Kolo—A Pagan pony—Its
performances—Injury to insult—Human and equine elements 209

CHAPTER XXVI

INCIDENTS ON TREK

The changed seasons—End of the rainy season—Bush fires—Rolling
downs and kopjes—A 25-miles march without food or drink—Return
journey commenced—Ascent of the escarpment, 2,200 feet—A Hausa
and Pagan affray—An ugly situation 221

CHAPTER XXVII

INCIDENTS ON TREK—(_continued_)

Information and advice in West Africa—Different men, different
manners—Ritz by comparison—A Samaritan by the way—Dried
streams—Primitive transport—A visitor from Rhodesia—Omitting
anti-fever precautions 230

CHAPTER XXVIII

CLOSE OF THE TREK

Character of carriers—The only blow given—Native grooms’
monetary transactions—Material for a _cause célèbre_—Dispensing
justice on the road—Headman Dan Sokoto—Dan’s sharp practices—A
long march 237

CHAPTER XXIX

TOWARDS THE PAGAN COUNTRY

Hausa and Pagan—Distinction of dress—Deeper divisions—The
price of peace in former days—Public highway—Revenge and
brotherhood—Scope of an Assistant Resident 243

CHAPTER XXX

IN A PAGAN TOWN

Bukuru Residency—Bukuru town—Its ingenious defences—Traps
for an attacking force—The blacksmith—Musical
instruments—Pagan orchestras—A royal male Pavlova—The
Court band—A King’s reward—Pagan homesteads—The sleeping
apartment—Farming—Incentives to obtain, money—Enhancing
nature’s charms—Male and female decorations—Bareback and
bitless horsemanship—Races—Care of horses—The hunt—Sign
language 247

CHAPTER XXXI

ADMINISTERING JUSTICE AND TAXATION

Direct rule—Cases in a Resident’s Court—Wife and “another
man”—Trial by ordeal—Modification of that method—Kidnapping for
slaves—“The liberty of the subject”—Extenuating circumstances
and even-handed justice—Benefits that are not welcomed—The
joy of fighting—Graduated taxation—How to express numerals to
people who have no such terms—Two tax collectors—First lessons
in administration 260

CHAPTER XXXII

MARRIAGE AND DEATH CUSTOMS

Fashions—A wedding-ring warning—The former way with
undesirables—Succession to a Chief ship—Marriage—Dowries—A
perpetual leap-year—Widows—Burial usages—Cannibalism—Eating
those who die from natural causes—Etiquette of the practice—A
credit and debit account 269

CHAPTER XXXIII

SOLDIERS AND THEIR SPORTS

British-trained troops—Little-known Mr Atkins—Swearing-in
recruits—Hausa and Pagan oaths—Native priests on active
service—Number of wives allowed—Artillery on men’s heads—Gun
drill—Dipping for toroes—Mounted infantry—Signalling
tuition—Teaching the band—Inculcating self-reliance—The
military classification of white civilians 278

CHAPTER XXXIV

ZARIA CITY AND PROVINCE

Prominence of Zaria—As a produce and trading centre—The
gold discoveries—Opposite deductions—Model, native
town-planning—Various taxes 291

CHAPTER XXXV

THE BARO-KANO RAILWAY

Emir’s assent—Compensation for palm trees—A locomotive’s
food—Engine whistling preferred to Caruso—Official
opening—Natives’ curiosity—A Mallam’s impressions—Horse _v._
train 299

CHAPTER XXXVI

BARO ON THE NIGER

Baro port—A Selfridge-Whiteley 400 miles up the Niger—London
frock-coats in West Central Africa—Fretwork and ladies’
garments—An untutored eye and its guide—The rat a table
delicacy—Oje’s local patriotism—Baro and Jebba; hygienic
problems—A superfluous hospital 306

CHAPTER XXXVII

LOKOJA

First stage down the Niger—Lokoja’s past—The discovery
of the brothers Lander—Previous theories—McGregor
Laird’s enterprise—Eighty per cent. mortality—The 1841
expedition—Richardson, Barth and Overweg—Laird’s second
endeavour—The House of Commons scuttle policy—Its
reversal—First Fulani battle—Imperial control—Commerce of
Lokoja—Vessels at the beach—Loading boats—Freedom of contract 312

CHAPTER XXXVIII

LOKOJA—(_continued_)

A cosmopolitan town—A Baron Haussman—The Cantonment
Magistrate—Some of his duties—Expenditure and economy—King
Abigah—A plea for generosity—The hospitals—A black Bishop’s
legacy—The missionary question—Critics and the converse 324

CHAPTER XXXIX

NAVIGATING THE NIGER

Rise and fall—A tideless stream—Comfort afloat—The uncertain
river—Nasaru the Pilot—Altered channels—When aground—Breakdown
of machinery and smart repair—Tropical scenery—The crocodiles’
rest—Riverside villages—Where money is ignored—Estimation
for old bottles and tins—Harmattan fog—An island trading
station—Hazard and skill to maintain a time-table 334