Chapter V: Letter XXIX

Ride on horseback into the county Wicklow. Bray. Student's equipment. English piety. Kilruddery. Glen of the Downs. Summer-house. Vale of Durwan. The giant. The Devil's Glen. Küleborn. Rural repast in Rosanna. The tourists. Avondale, an Eden by moonlight. Avoca Inn. The meeting of the Waters. Castle Howard. Beautiful portrait of Mary Stuart. Bally Arthur. The ha-ha. My horse at blind-man's buff. Shelton Abbey. The negro porter. Loss of my pocket-book. What is a gentleman? Valley of Glenmalure. Lead mines. Military road. The sun behind black masses of clouds. The seven churches. Mysterious tower without an entrance. The black lake of St. Kevin. The giant Fian M'Cumhal. The enamoured Princess. Her tragical end, and the saint's excessive rigour. Irish toilet. Walter Scott and Moore in the mouth of a peasant. Morass and will-o'-the-wisp. A night upon straw. Hedge of Mist. First peep of sun over the lake and valley of Luggelaw. Romantic solitude. The statue of rock. P---- Park. Intolerance, cant, and abuse of the Sunday. Sugar-loaf. Rich country. Repose by the brook. Lord Byron......331

LETTER XXX.

Donnybrook fair. The lovers. Powerscourt. The Dargle and The Lover's Leap. The waterfall. Galopade, with the guide behind me. Inn at Bray. Sketch of English manners. Grand Duke of S---- W.----. Advantages of a humble mode of travelling. Activity of beggars. Kingston. Construction of the harbour. Machinery. The Spectre ship. Tasteless and appropriate monument in honour of George the Fourth. Fine road to Dublin. Catholic association. English horse-riders and admirable clowns. The dance of Polypi......340

LETTER XXXI.

The young parson. Journey with him to the West. Connaught. Singular country. Visit at Capt. B----'s. Life of a true Irishman. They are not over fastidious. Divine service in Tuam. Service of the Church of England. Galway race. Resemblance of the Irish people to savages. The town of Galway. Want of books there. The race. Accident of a rider. Indifference of the public. The fair African. Athenry, a bathing place, like a Polish village. King John's castle. The abbey. Popular escort. Whisky. Castle Hackett. The fairy queen. She carries off a lover. Splendid sunset. Definition of 'Good temper.' Cong. Irish wit. The Pigeon-hole. Subterranean river. Meg Merrilies. Illuminated cavern. Enchanted trout. Lough Corrib, with its three hundred and sixty-five islands. The monastery. Irish mode of burial. Hearty kindness of the old captain......345

LETTER XXXII.

'Hors d'oeuvre.' German Character. Adventure with a gipsy. How we acquire a soul. State of the Irish peasantry. Stupid rage of an Orangeman. Beautiful park and disposition of water. Picture gallery at M---- B----. St. Peter with a scarlet wig, by Rubens. Winter landscape, by Ruisdael. Magnificent Asiatic Jew, by Rembrandt. Irish hunters. Departure by the Postman's cart. The obliging Irishman. Desert country. Poverty and light-heartedness of the people. Sure revelation. "The cross bones." The Punch-bowl. Lord Gort's park. Desire of my horse to stay there. Irish posting. Its characteristics......357