Chapter III: Part 3

Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting rails (3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side rails into these to help secure them in place.

_DOLL'S BED_]

The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends for a bearing.

All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.

Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good, clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary instructions for painting.

There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing the bedding.

TWO TYPES OF STILTS.

(Type A Stilt.)

Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.

In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights are held beneath the arm pits.

The upright pieces should be made 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 5', or as long as the boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand nicely.

Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2" apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No. 12 flat-head screw.

_STILTS_]

The foot rests are made 1" × 3-1/2" × 5" and shaped, as indicated on the drawing.

They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" × 3" round-head stove bolts. Several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.

The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also preserves it and lengthens its life.

(Type B Stilt.)

Type B stilt (Plate 41) is made shorter than Type A and is to be strapped to the leg just above the knee.

The uprights are 1" × 1-3/8" × 36", or longer if desired.

Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of the same size as in Type A.

A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet, and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.

Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.

A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady oneself.

CHILD'S CART.

Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (Plate 42) is of simple construction.

Make the side pieces first 1/2" × 6" × 10". On one long edge measure in 2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6" and the end piece 1/2" × 6" × 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.

The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6-1/2".

_CHILD'S CART_]

The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/8". This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4" from the ends and half way between the sides.

Two small blocks are made 1/2" × 1" × 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown. These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other, otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.

Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being 2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.

The handle measures 7/8" × 1" × 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an angle of 30°, as shown.

A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the under side of the handle.

The wheels are 7/8" × 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then carefully cut to the line.

The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.

Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position. Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.

Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with glue and 1" brads.

A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.

CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.

This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.

Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43 gives the assembly drawing.

_CHILD'S DUMP WAGON_]

The two sides are first made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 12", and the two ends 1/2" × 6" × 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point indicated.

The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6-5/8" × 12".

Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the sides.

The two end uprights are now made 1/2" × 6-3/4" × 8". Measure up 2-1/4" on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the center of the lower edge to attach brace block.

Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" × 1-3/4" × 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2" hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown. Countersink these four holes.

Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the top edge, as shown.

Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" × 1" × 1" and cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.

The underbody should next be made 1/2" × 8" × 18-1/2".

Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.

Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of a No. 6 screw.

Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head screws are used at these points.

Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, eight in all.

Next make the two axles 7/8" × 1" × 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without interference.

The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.

_DETAILS OF DUMP WAGON_]

A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of the axle to insure the screws going in properly.

The cart handle is made 1/2" × 1" × 30", with one end rounded and the opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a 1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place with glue and one 7/8" brad.

Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.

The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-3/4". A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" × 2-1/4".

Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.

The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1" in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.

On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end. Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw.

Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.

A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.

This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through the block.

Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and handle.

CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.

(Type A.)

The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very serviceable and quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily found on the store shelves.

First, make the handles 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 30". Chamfer the handles, as shown, for four inches from one end.

The two sides are made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and file.

The end is 3/8" × 5-1/2" × 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" × 11" × 14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at the front end.

Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes with beeswax.

Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at the grip end 13" apart outside.

While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.

The two legs are made 7/8" × 1" × 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.

A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9" long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the leg to hold it firmly in place.

_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE A_)]

_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE B_)]

A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.

The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter.

Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.

Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling, place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.

All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green. Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0 sandpaper before applying the second.

CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.

(Type B.)

This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned exceptionally strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy. This type has removable sideboards.

The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so it will not be necessary to give the directions here.

After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made ready for assembling.

Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the wheel supports and the tops of the legs.

The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" × 4", bent over the braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6 round-head screws.

First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the bottom board and flush with the side edges.

Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.

_DETAILS OF TYPE B WHEELBARROW_]

Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws from the upper side of the bottom board.

Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in the same manner.

Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6 round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.

Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.

Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws.

It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg, through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.

The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is painted two coats of red before being placed in position.

CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.

This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.

The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may be used, if preferred.

The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all necessary holes shown in the drawing.

The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made 1/4" × 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later. Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the body of the clown on the handle.

_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]

_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]

The handle is made 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 30", and the grip is rounded and shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16" material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.

A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated.

A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.

The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen, using India ink.

The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting dowel in both the clown and the handle.

COCK HORSE.

The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.

The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2" long.

The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in Plate 50, by the method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.

Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.

The stick is made 7/8" × 1" × 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".

Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4" from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.

Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" × 7/8" × 7-1/2", are to hold the wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the next two 3/4" apart.

On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.

A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a 2-1/2" × 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.

The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than the 1/4" × 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon it.

Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4" round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.

Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.

Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join, outline with a drafting pen and India ink.

A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4" dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place, taking care that it projects equally on both sides.

_COCK HORSE_]

ROCKING ROOSTER.

This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly safe. (Plate 51.)

The seat board is made 7/8" × 5" × 21". Measure 6" in from one end on both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.

Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.

The two rockers are made 7/8" × 4-1/2" × 18". Measure down 1/4" on the two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.

The rooster's head is made 7/8" × 6" × 10-1/4" and the outline is sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.

Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.

A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.

Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.

The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a file.

Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the screws enter.

The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made 7/8" × 1" × 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.

Sand all pieces thoroughly.

_ROCKING ROOSTER_]

Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is centered well and placed two inches from the front end.

The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they are just an inch apart.

Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0 sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright red and the feathers on the neck, green.

After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and the other circle about the eye is painted black.

If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and sets off the features.

The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of the priming coat.

KIDDIE KAR.

It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.

The seat board (Plate 52) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2" wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and chiseled to the correct shape.

The top edge of the seat should be rounded.

The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" × 5" × 6-1/2". Finish to the line.

The brace is cut 7/8" × 5" × 9-1/2".

Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the dimensions shown on the drawing.

A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.

Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.

The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.

Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.

Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.

A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the steering rod.

Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat board, to prevent wear.

In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8" from the bottom of the steering gear.

This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.

The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a 1/4" × 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.

The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.

The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.

All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the remainder.

Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.

_KIDDIE KAR_]

KIDDIE KOASTER.

This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar and is suited for children of eight or over.

If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.

If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.

The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in Plate 53.

The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" × 2-1/4" × 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and 7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the bottom end chamfered, as shown.

A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end. An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.

A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit. Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a 3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.

These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch from the lower end to receive a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A 1/4" bit should be used to bore these.

The rear support is made 2" × 2-1/4" × 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and draw to the opposite corner.

_KIDDIE KOASTER_]

Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to take a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.

Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.

Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the front.

The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".

Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed, measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given on the drawing.

On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of the rear support on a line.

This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.

Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.

The seat is made 3/4" × 5" × 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch, cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.

The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge with upholstery tacks to match.

The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are clearly shown.

The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.

These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply. These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.

A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm, to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes, without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches long and costs fourteen cents.

If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be substituted, two being used.

A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the screw holes in the hinges.

Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted two coats.

A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.

SKI SKOOTER.

The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of ash.

The runner is first made 5/8" × 3-3/8" × 39" and thinned down, for ten inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.

The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.

The upright piece is made 7/8" × 3-1/8" × 16-1/8" and one of the bracing pieces 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 12" and the other 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 13". These are cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.

The seat is made 7/8" × 6" × 12", and the top edges are slightly rounded.

Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" × 7/8" × 5".

_SKI SKOOTER_]

_METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS_]

Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" × 7/8" × 3-1/8" and their ends are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright directly under the seat.

Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them. Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.

The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully between coats.

The seat can be upholstered if desired.

METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.

Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and allow them to remain about five hours.

Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays flat on the front edges of the other steps.

Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood. Plate 55 shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be bent in the same manner.

Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.

SKI SKIPPERS.

The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.

The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4" wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)

The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.

_SKI SKIPPER_]

Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.

Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to the point where they curve upward.

This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.

The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish. When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent, using the method shown in Plate 55.

The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" × 2-1/2" × 12", and the single slat for the foot rest 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 12".

The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and 1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between the edges.

The seat supports are first cut 7/8" × 7-1/2" × 9-1/2" and then an inch is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" × 3" × 9".

The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" × 3" × 3-1/2". On the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as indicated. Round these upper corners.

Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing. There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.

It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.

Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.

Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to receive a 3/8" rope.

It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent splitting the block.

A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint should be applied.

DOLL SLEIGH.

While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will be suitable for a small child.

First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting them 9" wide by 26" long.

On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.

Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" × 10" × 16-1/2". Two braces, to go below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" × 3" × 8-1/2".

These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.

The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" × 8" × 22". On the top edge measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the right-hand upper corner.

From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end. From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge 1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.

The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" × 6" × 11" and the rear end 1/2" × 9" × 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8" from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.

Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.

The two handles are made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 23-1/2", and the top piece, or grip, 1" × 1-1/4" × 19".

The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.

Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.

Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the body of sleigh at places most convenient.

Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with 3/16" × 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.

If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap iron.

Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.

_DOLL'S SLEIGH_]

If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each coat.

CHILD'S TABLE.

This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.

The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the table and takes up but little room.

The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.

The four legs are 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" × 3" × 24".

These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.

The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screws.

The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.

The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the lower leg braces. See sketch B, Plate 58. These lower braces are 3/4" × 1-3/8" × 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and 1-1/2" round-head screws.

_CHILD'S TABLE_]

All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper and then finished with No. 0.

The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may be finished in enamel.

If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the final coat of enamel applied.

Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil if desired.

CHILD'S CHAIR.

Plate 59 gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in Plate 58.

The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25" long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" × 9-5/8". The lower rail is notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8" deep.

The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4" above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.

It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.

While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.

These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 8-1/4".

The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.

Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on the drawing.

A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support the seat, is made 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.

The seat is made 7/8" × 10" × 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.

Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be treated as described for the table.

_CHILD'S CHAIR_ (_To match table on preceding plate_)]

INDEX

Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, 15

Bean Bag Game, 72-4

Bench Hook, 22-4

Camel, 38

Child's Cart, 93-5;
Chair, 130-1;
Dump Wagon, 95-9;
Snow Shovel, 46-7;
Step Ladder, 59-63;
Table, 128-30;
Wash Bench, 57-9;
Wheelbarrow (Type A), 99-103, (Type B), 102-5

Clown Running Wheel, 105-9

Cock Horse, 109-10

Colonial Doll's Chair, 66-7;
Cradle, 87-9;
Table, 64-6

Coping Saw Work, 26-7

Darts, 75-7

Dart Board Game, 74-6

Dippy Duck, 40-1

Doll's Bed, 89-91;
Clothes Rack, 55-7;
Cradle, 84-7;
Ironing Board (Size A), 49-51, (Size B), 51-3, (Size C), 53-5;
Sleigh, 125-8;
Table with Drawer, 62-4

Dowel Sticks, 27

Duck, 30

Elephant, 33

Equipment, 13-4

Finish and Color, 15-7

Five Post Ring Toss, 68-72

Goat, 36

Goose, 31

History of Toy-Making, 11-3

Kiddie Kar, 113-15;
Koaster, 116-19

Lamb, 35

Laying Out Work, 14

Merrimac, 44-5

Method of Bending Runners, 121-2;
of Enlarging Figures, 39-40;
of Jointing Wood, 18-20

Monitor, 42-3

Pelican, 29

Periscope, 47-8

Picture Puzzle Construction, 27-8

Rabbit, 34

Rhinoceros, 32

Ring-The-Hook Game, 68-9

Rocking Rooster, 111-13

Rooster, 37

Sand or Water Mill, 82-4

Simple Tool Sharpening, 24-6

Ski Skippers, 122-5

Ski Skooter, 119-22

Staining, 17-8

Support to be Held in Vise, 20-2;
for Holding Coping Saw Work, 20;
for Table Use, 22

Transferring a Design, 14-5

Two Types of Stilts, 91-3

Wind Mill, 77-80; (Type B) 80-2

Transcriber's Note.

The equals sign has been used to show 'bold' in this etext.

A few minor typographical errors were amended.

"heighth" changed to "height".

"Sonnenburg" changed to "Sonnenberg"

Title of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent punctuation and this was systematised.