Chapter I: Front Matter

LYONS Mc. LEOD, F.R.G.S. &c. &c.

London: Hurst & Blackett, 1860.]

TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA;
WITH
THE NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE IN
MOZAMBIQUE.

BY
LYONS MCLEOD, ESQ., F.R.G.S.,
HONORARY FELLOW OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES
AND OF THE METEOROLOGICAL SOCIETY, MAURITIUS
LATE H.B.M. CONSUL AT MOZAMBIQUE.

“Ethiopia shall soon stretch out her hands unto God.”—_Psalm
LXVIII. v. 31._

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.

LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1860.

_The right of Translation is reserved._

TO THE MERCHANTS AND MEMBERS OF CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.

GENTLEMEN,

Impressed with the conviction that, from the most remote time, Civilization and Christianity have been best promoted by Commerce, which binds rival nations in the bonds of Peace, I respectfully dedicate this work to the Mercantile portion of my countrymen, in the hope that by their united efforts, Slavery may be made to disappear from the continent of Africa, through the establishment of commercial relations, especially with that rich portion of its coast and the neighbouring Ethiopian Archipelago, including the fertile island of Madagascar, described in the following pages.

I have the honor to be, GENTLEMEN,

Your most obedient and humble Servant,

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

The “Ireland”—W.S.L. Postal-line—Mr. Jenkins—The Author
Discovers that he is Styled a “Government”—The General’s
Quarters—Proceed to Sea—Accident in the Saloon—Total Darkness
in the “Lower Regions”—Spittoons and Safety Lamps—The Gale—Put
Back to Plymouth—Ten Passengers Leave the “Ireland.” 1

CHAPTER II.

Departure from Plymouth—Reflections on Leaving England—Cabin
Attendants—Live Stock—Mr. Jenkins and “the Pure Element”—N.E.
Trades—Red Atlantic Dust—Short Allowance of Water—Viewing the
“Line”—The Southern Cross—A Lady Navigator—“Fire! Fire!”—The
Maniac—Arrival at the Cape 25

CHAPTER III.

W.S.L., Worst Steam-Line—Table Mountain—The Table-cloth is
Spread—Pic-nic to Constantia—Careless Smoking—Cape Wines—The
“Ireland” Proceeds to India—Melancholy Forebodings—Midnight
Alarm in Simon’s Bay—The Cape Observatory 49

CHAPTER IV.

Table Bay—Breakwater to be Built—Harbour of Refuge—Policy of
Sir George Grey—Proposal for Carrying the Mail to the Cape by
way of Aden—Discovery of Coal on the Zambesi—Its Effects on
the Future of South and East Africa—Absence of Trees at Cape
Town—Climate of the Cape 67

CHAPTER V.

Further Detention at the Cape—Arrival of the “Frolic”
from Mozambique—“John of the Coast”—New Naval
Commander-in-Chief—Storm at the Cape—Courage of Cape
Boatmen—Destruction of Shipping in Table Bay—Embark in the
“Hermes”—Coast of Kaffraria—Well Watered and Beautiful Country 87

CHAPTER VI.

Arrive at Natal—The Bar—Proposed Harbour of Refuge—Wharves
in the St. Lawrence—Railroad at Natal—D’Urban—Port Natal
Harbour—Verulam—Pieter-Maritzburg—Slave Ship off Port Natal—The
Havannah Slavers—Chamber of Commerce—Natal Waggon—“Daft Jemmy” 100

CHAPTER VII.

Present State of Natal—Physical Formation—Succession of
Terraces—Products most suitable for Each—Labour Required for
Natal—Development and Prosperity of Free Labour Colonies—The
Destruction of the Slave Trade—Climate of Natal—“Shall we
Retain our Colonies?” 130

CHAPTER VIII.

Port St. Lucia—Zulu Country—Panda—Delagoa Bay—Its
Unhealthiness; Causes Examined—Lourenço Marques—Dutch
Fort—Tembe and Iniack—British Territory—Fecundity of Boer
Females—Products—Transvaal Republic—Mineral Wealth—Future of
the Country 147

CHAPTER IX.

Appearance of the Coast to the North of Delagoa
Bay—Facility of Shipping Slaves—Slavers’ Signals—Rivers
Lagoa and Inhampura—Cape Corrientes—“Sail, ho!”—The
Chase—“Zambesi”—Ex-Governor Leotti—A Slaver Clears from
Cardiff—Inhambane—Products—Mineral Wealth 180

CHAPTER X.

Kingdom of Mocoranga—Kotba for the Soudan of Cairo—Sultan
of Kilwa—Kingdom of Algarves—Remains of Ancient
Cities—Inscriptions not Deciphered—Zimboë Bruce—Sofala, the
Ancient Ophir—Productions—The Manica Gold Mines—Surrounding
Region Adapted for Europeans—Industry of the Natives—The
Priests Rob the Jewels from the Image of the Blessed Virgin 204

CHAPTER XI.

The River Zambesi—Luavo Mouths—Killimane—River Shire—Valley
of the Shire Abounding in Elephants—How Salt is Made on
the Zambesi—From the Ocean to Kaord Vasa Navigable at all
Seasons—Water Rises Sixty Feet in Narrows of Lupata—Access
to the Cazembe Territory by the Zambesi—Three Seams of Coal
Discovered—Products 225

CHAPTER XII.

Angoxa—Its History—Perfidious Conduct of the Portuguese—Effects
of British Interference—Wholesome Dread which the Portuguese
have of the Imâm of Muskat—Visit of the Sultan of Angoxa to
Johanna—Invites a British Merchant to Trade with him—Seizure of
the British Brig “Reliance” 245

CHAPTER XIII.

Arrival at Mozambique—Interview with the
Governor-General—Saluting the Consular Flag—Description of the
Consul’s House on the Mainland—Portuguese Rosa—Cruelty of the
Portuguese Towards their Slaves—“Flog until he will Require no
More!”—Irrigation and Native Labour 258

CHAPTER XIV.

Brief Historical Sketch of the Portuguese on the East Coast of
Africa—Description of Mozambique—Its Position as an Emporium
for Commerce—Its Restoration, like that of Alexandria,
possible—Fort San Sebastian—Churches and Chapels—Palace of the
Governor-General—Wharf—Population—Society 279

CHAPTER XV.

Slave-Trade under the French Flag—Vessels Employed—How Fitted
and Provisioned—Price Paid for Slaves by the French—Ceremony
of Engaging the “Labourers”—How Treated at Réunion—Dhows
Employed, and Horrors of the Traffic—Statement of the Captain
of a French Trading Vessel—Statement of the Supercargo of an
American Trading Vessel—Revolt of Slaves on Board of a French
Brig, and Massacre of the Crew—How the Slaves are obtained in
the Interior of Africa—The Natives Rise _en masse_—Feelings of
the Natives towards British Consul and Family—The “Zambesi”
assisting the “Minnetonka” to obtain Slaves 303

TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA.