Chapter I: Preface

The Work from which the present Volume is translated consists of extracts from the Author's Journal, accompanied by his recollections and observations. The absence of chronological arrangement will be sufficiently accounted for, when it is explained that the zoological investigations for which the journey was undertaken frequently required the Author to make repeated visits to one particular place or district, or to remain for a considerable time within the narrow circuit of a few miles; and sometimes to travel rapidly over vast tracts of country. Disclaiming any intention of making one of those travelling romances, with which the tourist literature of the day is overstocked, the Author has confined himself to a plain description of facts and things as they came within the sphere of his own observation. But though Dr. Tschudi lays claim to no merit beyond the truthfulness of his narrative, yet the reader will no doubt readily concede to him the merit of extensive information, and happy descriptive talent. His pictures of Nature, especially those relating to the animal world, are frequently imbued with much of the charm of thought and style which characterizes the writings of Buffon.

Lima, the oldest and most interesting of the cities founded by the Spaniards on the western coast of South America, has been frequently described; but no previous writer has painted so animated a picture of the city and its inhabitants, as that contained in the following volume. After quitting the capital of Peru, Dr. Tschudi went over ground previously untrodden by any European traveller. He visited the Western Sierra, the mighty chain of the Cordilleras, the boundless level heights, the deep mountain valleys on the eastern declivity of the Andes, and the vast primeval forests. Whilst recounting his wanderings in these distant regions, he describes not only the country and the people, but every object of novelty and interest in the animal, vegetable, and mineral creations.

Those lovers of Natural History who are familiar with the German language, and who may wish to make themselves extensively acquainted with the animal world, in those parts of Peru visited by Dr. Tschudi, will find abundant information on the subject in his work, with plates, entitled "Untersuchungen ueber die Fauna Peruana." The present Publication, though containing a vast deal to interest the naturalist, is addressed to the general reader, and will, it is presumed, gratify curiosity respecting the highly interesting and little known regions to which it relates. It may fairly be said that no previous writer has given so comprehensive a picture of Peru; combining, with animated sketches of life and manners, a fund of valuable information on Natural History and Commerce.

T. R.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
PAGE

Embarkation at Havre--The Voyage--Arrival at the Island of Chiloe--Landing--The Gyr-Falcon--Punta Arena--The Island of Chiloe described--Climate and Cultivation--Cattle--The Bay--San Carlos--The Governor's House--Poverty and Wretchedness of the Inhabitants of the Town--Strange method of Ploughing--Coasting Vessels--Smuggling--Zoology--Departure from Chiloe 1

CHAPTER II.

Valparaiso and the adjacent country--The Bay--Aspect of the Town--Lighthouses--Forts--Custom House--Exchange--Hotels and Taverns--War with the Peru-Bolivian Confederation--First Expedition--Preparations for the Second Expedition--Embarkation of the Troops--Close of the Port--July Festival in honor of the French Revolution--The _Muele_, or Mole--Police--_Serenos_, or Watchmen--Movable Prisons--Clubs--Trade of Valparaiso--Santiago--Zoology 15

CHAPTER III.

Juan Fernandez--Robinson Crusoe--Passage to Callao--San Lorenzo--Rise and fall of the coast--Mr. Darwin's opinions on this subject--Callao--The Fortress--Siege by the Spaniards--General Rodil--Siege by the Chilians--The Colocolo--Pirates--Zoology--Road to Lima 26

CHAPTER IV.

Lima--Situation and extent of the City--Streets, Houses, Churches and Convents--San Pedro--The Jesuits--Nunneries--Beatarios--Hospitals--San Andres--The Foundling House--The Pantheon--The Palace--The Plaza Mayor--Pizarro--The Cabildo--Fountains--Palace of the Inquisition--The University--National Library--Museum of Natural History and Antiquities--Academy of Design--The Mint--The Theatre--Circus for Cock-fighting--The Bridge--The City Wall--Santa Catalina--Barracks 42

CHAPTER V.

Population of Lima--Its diminution--Different races of the Inhabitants--Their characteristics--Amusements--Education--The Women of Lima--Their Costume--the _Saya y Manto_--Female domestic life--Love of dress--Beatas--Indians--Slaves--Bosales--Free Creoles--Negroes--Negresses--Black Creoles--Their varieties--Mestizos--Mulattoes--Pelanganas--Zambos--Chinos--Foreigners in Lima--Corruption of the Spanish language 63

CHAPTER VI.

Primary Schools--Colleges--The University--Monks--Saints--Santo Toribio and Santa Rosa--Religious Processions--Raising the Host--The Noche Buena--The Carnival--Paseos, or Public Promenades--Ice--Riding and Driving--Horses--Their Equipments and Training--Mules--Lottery in Lima--Cookery--Breakfasts, Dinners, &c.--Coffee-houses and Restaurants--Markets--The _Plazo Firme del Acho_--Bull Fights 89

CHAPTER VII.

Geographical Situation of Lima--Height above Sea level--Temperature--Diseases--Statistical Tables of Births and Deaths--Earthquakes--The Valley of Lima--The River Rimac--Aqueducts, Trenches, &c.--Irrigation--Plantations--Cotton--Sugar--Various kinds of Grain--Maize--Potatoes, and other tuberous roots--Pulse--Cabbage--Plants used for Seasoning--Clover--The Olive and other Oil Trees--Fruits--Figs and Grapes--The Chirimoya--The Palta--The Banana and other Fruits 111

CHAPTER VIII.

Robbers on the coast of Peru--The Bandit Leaders Leon and Rayo--The Corps of Montoneros--Watering Places near Lima--Surco, Atte and Lurin--Pacchacamac--Ruins of the Temple of the Sun--Difficulties of Travelling on the Coast of Peru--Sea Passage to Huacho--Indian Canoes--Ichthyological Collections--An old Spaniard's recollections of Alexander Von Humboldt--The Padre Requena--Huacho--Plundering of Burial Places--Huaura--Malaria--The Sugar Plantation at Luhmayo--Quipico--Ancient Peruvian Ruins--The Salinas, or Salt Pits--Gritalobos--Chancay--The Piques--Mode of extracting them--Valley of the Pasamayo--Extraordinary Atmospheric Mirrors--Piedras Gordas--Palo Seco 137

CHAPTER IX.

The Coast southward of Lima--Chilca--Curious Cigar cases made there--Yauyos--Pisco--Journey to Yea--A night on the Sand Plains--Fatal Catastrophe in the year 1823--Vine Plantations at Yea--Brandy and Wine--Don Domingo Elias--Vessels for transporting Brandy (Botijas and Odres)--Cruel mode of skinning Goats--Negro Carnival--Peculiar species of Guinea Pig--The Salamanqueja--Cotton Plantations--Quebrada of Huaitara--Sangallan--Guano--Retrospect of the Peruvian Coast--Rivers--Medanos--Winds--Change of Seasons--The Garuas--The Lomas--Mammalia--Birds--Amphibia 160

CHAPTER X.

Roads leading to the Sierra--Chaclacayo and Santa Ines--Barometrical observations--San Pedro Mama--The Rio Seco--Extraordinary Geological Phenomenon--Similar one described by Mr. Darwin--Surco--Diseases peculiar to the Villages of Peru--The Verugas--Indian mode of treating the disorder--The Bird-catching Spider--Horse-Shoeing--Indian Tambos--San Juan de Matucanas--The Thorn-apple and the Tonga--The Tambo de Viso--Bridges--San Mateo--Passports--Acchahuari--Malady called the Veta--Its effects on horses--Singular tact and caution of Mules--Antarangra and Mountain Passes--Curious partition of Water--Piedra Parada--Yauli--Indian Smelting Furnaces--Mineral Springs--Portuguese Mine owners--Saco--Oroya--Hanging Bridges--Huaros--Roads leading from Oroya 179

CHAPTER XI.

The Cordillera and the Andes--Signification of the terms--Altitude of the Mountains and Passes--Lakes--Metals--Aspect of the Cordillera--Shattered Rocks--Maladies caused by the diminished Atmospheric Pressure--The Veta and the Surumpe--Mountain Storms--The Condor--Its habits--Indian mode of Catching the Bird--The Puna or Despoblado--Climate--Currents of Warm Air--Vegetation--Tuberous Plant called the Maca--Animals of the Puna--The Llama, the Alpaco, the Huanacu and the Vicuna--The Chacu and the Bolas--Household Utensils of the Ancient Peruvians--The Viscacha and the Chinchilla--Puna Birds and Amphibia--Cattle and Pasture--Indian Farms--Shepherds' Huts--Ancient Peruvian Roads and Buildings--Treasure concealed by the Indians in the Puna 203

CHAPTER XII.

Cerro de Pasco--First discovery of the Mines--Careless mode of working them--Mine Owners and Mine Laborers--Amalgamating and Refining--Produce of the Mines--Life in Cerro de Pasco--Different Classes of the Population--Gaming and Drunkenness--Extravagance and Improvidence of the Indian Mine Laborers--The Cerro de San Fernando--Other Important Mining Districts in Peru--The Salcedo Mine Castrovireyna--Vast Productiveness of the Silver Mines of Peru--Rich Mines secretly known to the Indians--Roads leading from Cerro de Pasco--The Laguna of Chinchaycocha--Battle of Junin--Indian Robbers--A Day and a Night in the Puna Wilds 229

CHAPTER XIII.

The Sierra--Its Climate and Productions--Inhabitants--Trade--Eggs circulated as money--Mestizos in the Sierra--Their Idleness and Love of Gaming and Betting--Agriculture--The Quinua Plant, a substitute for Potatoes--Growth of Vegetables and Fruits in the Sierra--Rural Festivals at the Seasons of Sowing and Reaping--Skill of the Indians in various Handicrafts--Excess of Brandy-Drinking--Chicha--Disgusting mode of making it--Festivals of Saints--Dances and Bull-Fights--Celebration of Christmas-Day, New-Year's Day, Palm Sunday, and Good Friday--Contributions levied on the Indians--Tardy and Irregular Transmission of Letters--Trade in Mules--General Style of Building in the Towns and Villages of the Sierra--Ceja de la Montana 253

CHAPTER XIV.

Road to the Primeval Forests--Barbacoas, or Indian Suspension Bridges--Vegetation--Hollow Passes--Zoology--the Montana Plantations--Inhabitants--Trade in Peruvian Bark--Wandering Indians--Wild Indians or Indios Braves--Languages, Manners, and Customs of the Indios Bravos--Dress--Warlike Weapons and Hunting Arms--Dwellings--Religion--Physical formation of the Wild Indian Tribes--Animals of the Aboriginal Forests--Mammalia--Hunting the Ounce--Birds--Amphibia--Poisonous Serpents--Huaco--Insects--Plants 271

CHAPTER XV

Montana of San Carlos de Vitoc--Villages--Hacienda of Maraynioc--the Coca Plant--Mode of Cultivating and Gathering it--Mastication of Coca--Evil Consequences of its excessive Use--Its Nutritious Qualities--Indian Superstitions connected with the Coca Plant--Suggestions for its Introduction in the European Navies--Fabulous animal called the Carbunculo--The Chunchos--Missions to Cerro de la Sal--Juan Santos Atahuallpa--The Franciscan Monks--Depopulation of Vitoc 309

CHAPTER XVI.

Oppressions exercised by the Spaniards upon the Peruvian Indians--The Repartimiento and the Mita--Indian Insurrections--Tupac Amaru--His Capture and Execution--War of Independence--Character of the Peruvian Indians--Music--Dress--Superstitions--Longevity--Diminished Population of Peru--Languages spoken by the Aboriginal Inhabitants--Specimen of Quichua Poetry--The Yaravies--The Quipu--Water Conduits--Ancient Buildings--Fortresses--Idols--Domestic Utensils--Ancient Peruvian Graves--Mode of Burying the Dead--Mummies 329

TRAVELS IN PERU.