Chapter I: Preface

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As a young Author I may be allowed to make a few introductory remarks, for the purpose of propitiating that spirit of critical inquiry which will probably be directed to the examination of these volumes.

To undertake this journey into Africa I resigned a valuable medical appointment in the East, and voluntarily assumed the character of an adventurer. My taste and prudence were questioned much at the time by my friends. Whether the results of the ambition which prompted me to endeavour to be of service to others are, or are not, sufficient reward for the sacrifice I made, now depends upon the judgment of my reader.

In 1840 I held the appointment of Surgeon on board the iron armed steamer Phlegethon, on secret service, but presumed to be bound for the Eastern coast of Africa or India. I had long entertained the idea of travelling in Africa, and determined to carry this into effect by resigning at the end of the voyage out, and returning to England by a road across that continent. Accordingly, whilst in London, I prepared in some measure for the journey, by purchasing such instruments and outfit that I thought would be necessary. I also waited upon Captain Washington,[1] then Secretary of the Geographical Society, who entered warmly into my views, and introduced me to Captains Trotter and Allen, who were about to proceed upon the Niger expedition.

Footnote 1:

Now commanding the Blazer steam-vessel, R. N.

In May 1841 the Phlegethon reached Calcutta, and my respected Commander, the late lamented R. F. Cleveland, Esq., R. N., aware of my intention to travel, introduced me to several members of the Indian Government, who afforded me every facility to enable me to enter Africa from the coast opposite to Aden, and from whence a Political Mission, under Captain Harris, was then on the eve of starting for the court of Shoa in Abyssinia.

I beg particularly to acknowledge the interest that the Governor-General, the Right Hon. the Earl of Auckland, took in my proposed expedition, and also the kindness and attention I received from T. Prinsep, Esq., First Member of the Council, and T. H. Maddock, Esq., Secretary to the Government. I take this opportunity also of expressing to Capt. Haines, the political resident in Aden, my lively feelings of respect and gratitude for kindnesses the most disinterested, and for that assistance without which I could never have undertaken my subsequent journey.

Of my reception in Abyssinia by Captain Harris, I speak elsewhere, but the spirit with which my arrival was hailed may be supposed by the fact that during the first evening I managed, according to the _notes of our conversation_ taken by my very courteous entertainer, to assert a falsehood, to which, however, when I became aware of the circumstance I gave an unqualified contradiction, and so ended all friendly intercourse until some months after, when a peace was negotiated through the mediation of Capt. Graham.

The circumstances of this quarrel were most embarrassing to me, and have, I believe, occasioned considerable indignation on the part of those who had assisted me so far on my travels. Some respect, however, I do owe to myself, and feeling annoyed at being the subject of unworthy imputations, I have abstained from making any explanation whatever. Circumstances already have, in a great measure, exonerated me. The confidence of public men may be abused for a time, but it cannot long be imposed upon.

Before laying down my pen, I must remark that I am not learned either in the Arab or the Amharic tongues, and when I have ventured to insert a few words from either language, it is to add some little to the scene, not to lead any one to suppose that the smattering I picked up among the natives is paraded in affectation of great oriental learning.

In the orthography of proper names, I have used English letters, I know no other so well. Distrusting my _ear_ and _taste_, I referred to the published works of three modern Abyssinian travellers, who affect to be directed by a foreign standard of pronunciation. Finding them all to disagree, I had no other resource but to fall back upon the despised alphabet of my mother tongue.

Of my views upon the geography of Abyssinia, I am glad to observe, that since I advocated them at the Royal Geographical Society’s Meetings, culminating points and anticlinal axes have given way to the proper idea of a table-land surrounded by a _rampart-like scarp_.

An earnest wish to be impressive, when I believe myself to be right, has occasioned me sometimes to assume a tone of overweening confidence. For this I ask to be excused; and in palliation for minor faults of composition, must advance my long-continued ill-health, which has prevented close application for the purposes of amending or correcting the manuscript.

_London, June 1st, 1844._

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CONTENTS TO VOL. I.

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CHAPTER I.

PAGE

Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into 1
Africa.—Departure for Tajourah.—Stay in that
town.—Unsuccessful endeavours to proceed
farther.—Return to Aden

CHAPTER II.

Arrival at Berberah.—Description of the town and 18
fair.—Departure for Zeila.—The town of Zeila.—Second
visit to Tajourah.

CHAPTER III.

Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our 36
stay.—Occupation.—Amusements.—Geological character of
the country.—Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs
of the townspeople.—Public buildings.—Religious
ceremonies, law, and justice.

CHAPTER IV.

Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of 61
Tajourah.—Arrival from Shoa of Demetrius and
Joannes.—Ruins and remains of antiquity.—Preparations
for our departure.—The day fixed for our start.

CHAPTER V.

Journey to Ambabboo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to 70
Dulhull.—Stay at Dulhull.

CHAPTER VI.

Staying at Dulhull.—Journey to Segallo.—Halt for the 89
night.—Journey to Daddahue.—Attack of the Bursane
subdivision of the Ad’alee tribe.—Halt for the night.

CHAPTER VII.

Leave Daddahue.—Journey through the Rah Issah to 107
Bulhatoo.—Halt for the night.—Journey to
Dafarrè.—From Dafarrè to Aleek’shatan.—Journey to
Alephanta.

CHAPTER VIII.

The Salt Lake.—Journey to Gunguntur.—Scene of the 126
murder of three soldiers of the British Mission in
1840.—Halt.—Journey to Allulee.—Attack of the Muditu
tribe.

CHAPTER IX.

Staying at Allulee.—Amusements.—More camels join our 148
Kafilah.—Introduced to Ohmed Medina.—Journey to
Gurguddee.—Halt for the night.—Murder of a
slave.—March to Khrabtu.—Proceed to Saggadarah.

CHAPTER X.

Journey from Saggadarah.—Reach Bellad Hy.—Halt.—Journey 166
to Ramudalee.—Halt to receive the visit of Lohitu,
Chief of the Debenee tribe.

CHAPTER XI.

Stay at Ramudalee.—Himyah and his matchlock.—Chase of a 177
hyæna.—Visitors from the Debenee tribe.—Guinea-fowl
shooting.—Arrival of Lohitu.—Leave Ramudalee for the
valley of Gobard.

CHAPTER XII.

Conversation with Ohmed Medina respecting the course of 195
the river Hawash.—Description of that river.—Its
termination in Lake Abhibhad.—The various watersheds
of the basin of the Hawash.—Comparison of present
route with that of previous travellers.

CHAPTER XIII.

Leave Gobard for Arabderah.—View of Lake 206
Abhibhad.—March to Saggagahdah.—Meet Kafilah of
Mahomed Allee.—Halt for the night.

CHAPTER XIV.

Description of the plain of Saggagahdah.—Dowaleeka 217
lake.—Effects of mirage.—Slave Kafilah.—Write letters
to Aden.—Retire from camp with Lohitu.—Interview with
Mahomed Allee.

CHAPTER XV.

Journey from Sagagahdah to Mokoito.—Meet old 229
friends.—Conversation upon the origin of the Dankalli
people.—Journey from Mokoito to
Ahmahguloff.—Description of halting-place.

CHAPTER XVI.

Journey to Koranhedudah.—Pass Jibel Obinoe.—Plain of 245
Amardu.—Account of myrrh-tree.—Description of
halting-place.—Singular solar phenomenon.—Journey to
Herhowlee.—Bedouin village.—Bedouin ladies.

CHAPTER XVII.

Stay at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for
slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of
rain.—Engage escort of Hy Soumaulee.—Comparison between
modern Dankalli and ancient Blemmyes.—March to
Barradudda.—Description of halting-place.—Religious
discussion
with Ohmed Medina. 258

CHAPTER XVIII.

Stay at Barradudda.—Milk diet.—Wound myself by 271
accidental discharge of my gun.—Bedouin
skirmish.—Mode of warfare among the
Dankalli.—Compensation for wounds and injured
property.—Peace re-established.

CHAPTER XIX.

Journey to Thermadullah.—Quarrel with Ras ul 285
Kafilah.—Cooking scene.—Dankalli improvisatore.—Camel
saddles.—Stung by scorpion.—Account of some
neighbouring hot springs.

CHAPTER XX.

Journey to Alee-bakalee.—_May 1st._—Journey to 300
Hasanderah.—Dankalli naturalists.—Large herd of
cattle.—Architectural labours.—Mahomedan popular
superstitions.—Sale of children.—A Bedouin father.

CHAPTER XXI.

Purchase tobacco, with remarks on its use among the 313
Dankalli.—Make cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed
Medina.—Journey to Bundurah.—Singular effect of
refraction.—Joined by a party of Issah
Soumaulee.—Description of their appearance and
arms.—Affectionate inquiries of Kafilah
friends.—Description of halting-place and country
around Bundurah.

CHAPTER XXII.

Journey to Kuditee.—Territory of the 331
Wahama.—Description of halting-ground.—Meet with
party of friends returning from Shoa.—Strange
request.—Custom of incising skin with sharp
stone.—Influx of Wahama people into camp.—La Belle
Sauvage.—Long discussion with the Wahama.—Differences
settled, and allowed to proceed.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Journey to Hiero Murroo.—False alarm at 345
starting.—Necessity for being prepared for strife in
Adal.—Abu Bukeree, Sheik of the second Debenee
tribe.—Old friend of Lieut. Barker.—Offered
marriage.—Stay at Hiero Murroo.—Find abandoned
property of the Mission.—Negotiations for its
restoration.—Joined by Wahama Kafilah.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Delay in giving up the recovered stores.—Interview with 360
father of Mahomed Allee.—Accompany him to
kraal.—Entertainment there.—Condition of the
stores.—Murder in our camp.—Occupation of Kafilah
people during long halts.—Game of gubertah.—Muditu
visitors.—Expected attack.—Bedouins feasting.—Portion
of entrail around the neck of a Bedouin, not for
ornament, but use.—Amusements.

CHAPTER XXV.

Journey to Mettah.—Conversation upon different roads 380
through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy between the
Muditu and the Dankalli.—Battle of Hihillo.—Surprise
sleeping friend.—Frighten my servant, Allee.—Halt
near Assa-hemerah kraal.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Journey to Murroo.—Remarks upon the climate of 391
Adal.—Pass some small extinct volcanoes.—A little
farriery.—Cautions for practitioners of medicine
resident among the Dankalli.—Halt for a short time at
Kuma.—Second visit of Abu Bukeree.—Proceed to
Murroo.—Halt near kraal of Durtee Ohmed, Sheik of the
Sidee Ahbreu tribe

CHAPTER XXVII.

Amusements during stay at Murroo.—Bull fight.—Eating 408
raw meat.—Another offer of marriage.—Strange mode of
dressing the hair.—Caution to travellers; perhaps
unnecessary.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Journey to Sakeitaban.—Visit to Durtee Ohmed.—Halt at 418
Sakeitaban.—Proceed to Mullu.—Bad road.—Threats of
assassination.—Shields of the Dankalli, and care of
their arms.—Arrive at Mullu.—Write letter to Ankobar.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Journey to Annee.—Proceed over Plain of Mullu.—Halt in 431
sight of Berdudda.—Muditu kraal and funeral.—Hare
hunt.—Arrive at Annee.—Muditu visitors.—Moonlight
scene.—Stay at Berdudda.—Visit to camp of Hittoo
Galla women.—Attack of formidable
caterpillar.—Situation of halting-place at Annee.

CHAPTER XXX.

Journey to How.—Aleekduggee Sageer.—Immense 445
Kafilah.—Water-cure for determination of blood to the
head.—Attack of the Galla.—Display of forces.—Ras ul
Kafilah balances profit and loss so far.

CHAPTER XXXI.

Journey to Mulkukuyu.—Forest on the right bank of the 455
Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the
river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion hunting.—Visit the
Hippopotamus lake.—Journey to Azbotee.—Lee
Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the
table-land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian
Alps.—Reflections.

CHAPTER XXXII.

Journey from Azbotee to Dinnomalee.—Start with escort 474
in the night.—Pass Sheik’s tomb.—Reach Kokki.—Wahama
town.—Arrive at Dinnomalee.—Detained by Custom-house
officers.—Get to Farree.—Accommodations.—Hospitable
reception.

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SKETCH MAP
_SHEWING THE_
WATERSHEDS OF ABYSSINIA
_BY_
CHARLES JOHNSTON
_Published by J. Madden & C^o. June 3^{rd}. 1844_
]

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TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN ABYSSINIA, ETC.

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