Chapter I: Preface

The object of my voyage to Amboina was simply to re-collect the shells figured in Rumphius’s “Rariteit Kamer,” and the idea of writing a volume of travels was not seriously entertained until I arrived at Batavia, and, instead of being forbidden by the Dutch Government to proceed to the Spice Islands, as some of my warmest friends feared, I was honored by His Excellency, the Governor-General of “the Netherlands India,” with the order given on page 40.

Having fully accomplished that object, I availed myself of the unexampled facilities to travel afforded me in every part of the archipelago, and all except the first six chapters describe the regions thus visited.

The narrative given has been taken almost entirely from my journal, which was kept day by day with scrupulous care. Accuracy, even at any sacrifice of elegance, has been aimed at throughout; and first impressions are presented as modified by subsequent observation.

My sincerest thanks are herein expressed to the liberal gentlemen to whom this volume is dedicated; to Baron Sloet van de Beele, formerly Governor-General of the Netherlands India; to Mr. N. A. T. Arriens, formerly Governor of the Moluccas; to Mr. J. F. R. S. van den Bosche, formerly Governor of the West Coast of Sumatra; to the many officers of the Netherlands Government, and to the Dutch and American merchants who entertained me with the most cordial hospitality, and aided me in every possible way throughout the East Indian Archipelago.

CAMBRIDGE, MASS., U. S. A., _Sept. 1, 1868_.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

THE STRAIT OF SUNDA AND BATAVIA.

Object of the Travels described in this volume—Nearing the
coast of Java—Balmy breezes of the Eastern Isles—King Æolus’s
favorite seat—A veil of rain—First view of Malays—Entering
the Java Sea—The Malay language—Early history of Java—Marco
Polo—Hinduism in Java—History of Batavia—The roadstead
of Batavia—The city of Batavia—Houses of Europeans—Mode
of cooking—Characteristics of the Malays—Collecting
butterflies—Visit Rahden Saleh—Attacked with a fever—Receive a
letter from the Governor-General 13-41

CHAPTER II.

SAMARANG AND SURABAYA.

Sail from Batavia for the Moluccas—My companions—Mount
Slamat—The north coast of Java—Mount Prau—Temples
at Boro Bodo and Brambanan—Samarang—Mohammedan
mosque—History of Mohammedanism—Mount Japara—The
Guevo Upas, or Valley of Poison—Gresik—Novel mode of
navigating mud-flats—Surabaya—Government dock-yard and
machine-shops—Zoological gardens—History of Hinduism—The
Klings—Excursion to a sugar plantation—Roads and telegraphic
routes in Java—Malay mode of gathering rice—The kinds of
sugar-cane 42-70

CHAPTER III.

THE FLORA AND FAUNA OF THE TROPICAL EAST.

Leave Surabaya for Macassar—Madura—The Sapi—Manufacture of
salt—The Tenger Mountains—The Sandy Sea—Eruptions of Mount
Papandayang and Mount Galunggong—Java and Cuba compared—The
forests of Java—Fauna of Java—The cocoa-nut palm—The
Pandanus—The banana—Tropical fruits—The mangostin—The
rambutan—mango—duku—durian—bread-fruit—Bali—Javanese
traditions—Limit between the fauna of Asia and that of
Australia—A plateau beneath the sea—Caste and suttee practices
on Bali 71-96

CHAPTER IV.

CELEBES AND TIMUR.

History of Celebes—De Barros—Diogo de Cauto—Head-hunters of
Celebes—The harbor of Macassar—Voyages of the Bugis—Skilful
diving—Fort Rotterdam—The Societeit, or Club—A drive into
the country—The tomb of a native merchant—Tombs of ancient
princes—Sail for Kupang, in Timur—Flying-fish—The Gunong Api in
Sapi Strait—Gillibanta—Sumbawa—Eruption of Mount Tomboro—The
Eye of the Devil—Floris and Sandal-wood Island—Kupang—Fruits
on Timur—Its barrenness and the cause of it—Different
kinds of people seen at Kupang—Human sacrifice—Purchasing
shells—Geology of the vicinity of Kupang—Sail for Dilli—Village
of Dilli—Islands north of Timur—The Bandas—Monsoons in the Java
and China Seas 97-129

CHAPTER V.

AMBOINA.

Description of the island and city of Amboina—Dutch
mode of governing the natives—A pleasant home—A
living nautilus is secured—Excursion to Hitu—Hassar
steering—History of the cocoa-tree—Indian corn—Hunting
in the tropics—Butterflies—Excursion along the shores
of Hitu for shells—Mode of travelling in the Spice
Islands—The pine-apple—Covered bridges—Hitu-lama—Purchasing
specimens—History of the Spice Islands—Enormous
hermit-crabs—An exodus—Assilulu—Babirusa shells from
Buru—Great curiosities—Jewels in the brains of snakes and
wild boars—Description of the clove-tree—History of the
clove-trade—Watched by the rajah’s wives—Lariki and Wakasihu—A
storm in the height of the southeast monsoon—Variety of native
dialects—Dangerous voyage by night—An earthquake—Excursion to
Tulahu 130-176

CHAPTER VI.

THE ULIASSERS AND CERAM.

The arrival of the mail at Amboina—The Uliassers—Chewing
the betel-nut and siri—Haruku—We strike on a reef—Saparua
Island, village, and bay—Nusalaut—Strange reception—An Eastern
banquet—Examining the native schools—Different classes of
natives—Yield of cloves in the Uliassers—Nullahia, Amet,
and Abobo—Breaking of the surf on the coral reefs—Tanjong
O—Travel by night—Ceram—Elpaputi Bay and Amahai—Alfura, or
head-hunters, come down from the mountains and dance before
us—Land on the south coast of Ceram—Fiendish revels of the
natives—Return to Saparua and Amboina 177-212

CHAPTER VII.

BANDA.

Governor Arriens invites me to accompany him to Banda—The
Gunong Api—Road of the Bandas—Banda Neira and its forts—Geology
of Lontar—The Bandas and the crater in the Tenger Mountains
compared—The groves of nutmeg-trees—The canari-tree—Orang
Datang—We ascend the volcano—In imminent peril—The
crater—Perilous descent—Eruptions of Gunong Api—Earthquakes
at Neira—Great extent of the Residency of Banda—The Ki and
Arru Islands—Return to Amboina—Geology of the island of
Amboina—Trade of Amboina—The grave of Rumphius—His history 213-252

CHAPTER VIII.

BURU.

Adieu to Amboina—North coast of
Ceram—Wahai—Buru—Kayéli—Excursions to various parts of
the bay—A home in the forests—Malay cuisine—Tobacco and
maize—Flocks of parrots—Beautiful birds—History of Buru—The
religion and laws of the Alfura—Shaving the head of a young
child—A wedding-feast—Marriage laws in Mohammedan countries—A
Malay marriage—Opium, its effects and its history—Kayu-puti
oil—Gardens beneath the sea—Roban—Skinning birds—Tropical
pests—A deer-hunt—Dinding—A threatening fleet—A page of
romance—A last glance at Buru 253-297

CHAPTER IX.

TERNATE, TIDORE, AND GILOLO.

Seasons in Ceram and Buru—Bachian and Makian—Eruptions
of Ternate—Magellan—Former monopolies—The bloodhounds of
Gilolo—Migrations—A birth-mark—The Molucca Passage—Malay
pirates—They challenge the Dutch 298-322

CHAPTER X.

THE NORTHERN PENINSULA OF CELEBES.

Mount Klabat—Kema—A hunt for babirusa—A camp by the
sea—Enormous snakes—From Kema to Menado—Eruption of Mount
Kemaas—Population of the Minahassa—Thrown from a horse—The
Bantiks—A living death—History of the coffee-tree—In the jaws
of a crocodile—The bay of Menado—Lake Linu—A grove by moonlight 323-355

CHAPTER XI.

THE MINAHASSA.

The waterfall of Tinchep—A mud-well—A boiling pool—The ancient
appearance of our earth—Lake Tondano—One of the finest views
in the world—Palm-wine—Graves of the natives—Christianity and
education—Tanjong Fiasco—Gold-mines in Celebes—The island of
Buton—Macassar—A raving maniac 356-383

CHAPTER XII.

SUMATRA.

Padang—Beautiful drives—Crossing the streams—The
cleft—Crescent-shaped roofs—Distending the lobe of
the ear—Cañons—The great crater of Manindyu—Immense
amphitheatres—Ophir—Gold-mines 384-406

CHAPTER XIII.

TO THE LAND OF THE CANNIBALS.

Valley of Bondyol—Monkeys—The orang-utan—Lubu Siképing—Tigers
and buffaloes—The Valley of Rau—A Batta grave—Riding along the
edge of a precipice—Twilight and evening—Padang Sidempuan—Among
the cannibals—Descent from the Barizan—The suspension bridge of
rattan—Ornaments of gold—The camphor-tree 407-434

CHAPTER XIV.

RETURN TO PADANG.

Bay of Tapanuli—The Devil’s Dwelling—Dangerous fording—Among
the Battas—Missionaries and their brides—The feasts of
the cannibals—The pepper trade—The English appear in the
East—Struck by a heavy squall—Ayar Bangis and Natal—The king’s
birthday—Malay ideas of greatness 435-457

CHAPTER XV.

THE PADANG PLATEAU.

Thunder and lightning in the tropics—Paya Kombo and the Bua
Valley—The Bua cave—Up the valley to Suka Rajah—Ancient
capitals of Menangkabau—The reformers of Korinchi—Malay mode
of making matchlocks—A simple meal—Geological history of the
plateau—The Thirteen Confederate Towns—The flanks of the
Mérapi—Natives of the Pagi Islands—Where the basin of the
Indian Ocean begins 458-485

CHAPTER XVI.

CROSSING SUMATRA.

Bay of Bencoolen—Rat Island—Loss of Governor Raffles’s
collection—A trap for tigers—Blood-suckers—Pits for the
rhinoceros—virgin children—Plateau of the Musi—From Kopaiyong
to Kaban Agong—Natives destroyed by tigers—Sumatra’s wealth—The
Anak gadis—Troops of monkeys—From Tebing Tingi to Bunga Mas—We
come upon an elephant—Among tigers—The Pasuma people—Horseback
travel over—The land of game 486-520

CHAPTER XVII.

PALEMBANG, BANCA, AND SINGAPORE.

Mount Dempo—Rafts of cocoa-nuts—Floating down the
Limatang—Cotton—From Purgatory to Paradise—Palembang—The
Kubus—Banca—Presented with a python—The python escapes—A
struggle for life—Sail for China 521-542