Chapter I: Preface

In presenting the following Work to the public, it may be deemed proper that I should preface it by giving some account of my previous career, and of the reasons and circumstances which led to my Travels in Western Africa.

I was born in the year 1805, of humble parentage, on the farm of Culdoch, near Kirkcudbright, in North Britain. I had, at a very early period, a strong predilection for a military life, being of robust health and an athletic frame. In 1822 I therefore enlisted in the First Regiment of Life Guards, the discipline and appearance of which are, I may say, universally admired. During the hours not devoted to military duties, I applied myself to the cultivation of the art of drawing and painting, in which I attained some proficiency, and acquired also considerable knowledge of mechanics, all of which I found of great service to me when I afterwards became a traveller.

After serving sixteen years in this distinguished regiment, I felt anxious for a field of greater enterprise, and therefore obtained my discharge, on the conditions of the late good conduct warrant, early in 1839. In consequence of meritorious service, I obtained the appointment of master-at-arms in the late expedition to the Niger. In this unfortunate enterprise, I narrowly escaped the melancholy fate of so many of my brave and talented countrymen. Of upwards of three hundred, not more than five escaped! When at Egga, on the Niger, I volunteered to proceed up that river, with a few natives only; but, on account of the increasing sickness of the Europeans, the project was abandoned. Before the _Albert_, indeed, had descended the Niger nearly all of them were either attacked by the fever or were dead! The season was declared by the natives themselves to be particularly fatal, even to them.

On my arrival at Fernando Po, I was myself attacked with fever, which so seriously affected a wound that I had previously received in my leg,[1] that gangrene commenced, and was only checked by the application of a powerful acid, which destroyed the part affected. At this time my sufferings were extreme; part of both bones of my leg was entirely denuded of flesh a little above the ankle-bone. I strongly desired to have the diseased limb amputated, but having already lost much blood, and the climate of Fernando Po being unfavourable to such operations, (in fact, it was considered that it might prove fatal,) my medical friends, Drs. M’William and Thompson, promised to perform it when I should arrive at Ascension. The climate of that island is much superior to any other on the coast of Africa. Fortunately, by the unremitting attention of the medical officers, and the kindness of Commander Fishbourne, my wound and my general health much improved during my stay there. From its serious nature, however, I returned to England in an emaciated condition. Having naturally a very robust constitution, I rapidly recovered; but my limb never entirely regained its former strength.

This, however, did not prevent me from offering my services to the Royal Geographical Society, to proceed to Africa and penetrate to the Kong Mountains from the West Coast, the narrative of which journey I now have the pleasure of submitting to the reader. I ought to add that the Society provided me with the necessary instruments and instructions; and that the Lords of the Admiralty directed that I should have a free passage to Cape Coast. The country I traversed had been hitherto untrodden by any European traveller, and reached as far as 13° 6′ North latitude, and 1° 3′ East longitude.

In conclusion, I beg to state, that the Royal Geographical Society and several other gentlemen liberally contributed funds in aid of my enterprise, for which I cherish the warmest feelings of gratitude.

JOHN DUNCAN.

FELTHAM HILL,
_August, 1847_.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] I was wounded at the Cape de Verd Islands by the natives, while aiding my men, upon whom they were about to make a murderous attack. On retreating, one of them threw a poisoned arrow at me, which I parried from my face and body, but which struck my leg.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

CHAPTER I. PAGE 1

Departure--Arrival at Tangiers--Description of the Town--Market--Price
of Provisions--Method of Storing Grain--Inhabitants--The
Jews--A Jewish Dwelling--The Moors--Fruits
and Flowers--Desolate State of the Town--Moorish Market-women--
Gibraltar--Ascend to the Highest Point--A Pic-nic
and an agreeable Reconnoitre--Cleanliness of the Inhabitants--Arrival
at the Gambia--Bathurst--The Mandingos--Massacre
of the Crew of the _Margaret_--Encounter of the Crew of
the _Courier_ with Pirates--Sierra Leone--Dr.Ferguson--Mr.
Oldfield, his Hospitality--Give Chase to a supposed Slaver--Cape
Coast--Governor Hill--Cape Coast Castle

CHAPTER II. 22

Attacked by Fever--Death of my Servant--Mr. Hutton--Buildings
in Progress by him--Indolence of the Natives--Cheapness
of Living--The Fantees--Their Superstition--Description
of their Idol or Fetish--Their Customs or Holidays--Native
Music--Rum, their favourite Liquor--Proceedings on
occasion of a Death--Mode of Burial--The King’s Custom or
Holiday--Character of the King--My Reception by his
Majesty--Comparatively neglected by the British Government--Fetish
Houses--Native Funerals--Want of Natural Affection--The
Yam Custom--The Fantees, the worst of the
African Tribes--Their Power of Imitation--Wild Animals--The
Patakoo--Granite and Sandstone--The Dutch Settlement
of Elmina--A fine Field for Botanists--State of Agriculture--Excessive
Heat--Message to the King of Ashantee--Cattle--Artizans
much wanted--Murder of an Ashantee
Woman

CHAPTER III. 39

Annamaboe--State of the Fort--Indolence of the Natives, and
Difficulty in procuring Labourers--Domestic Slavery--Missionary
Schools--Want of Education in the Useful Arts--Hints
on this Subject--Vegetables and Fruits--Town of
Annamaboe--Soil--Natives--Reception of me by the King,
and Conversation with him--Mr. Brewe--Mr. Parker--Excessive
Heat--Little Cromantine, its impregnable Situation--The
Fort--Cromantine--The Market-place--Extraordinary
Tradition--Wonderful Dwarf--An Adventure--Accra--Wesleyan
Missionaries--Natives--their Habitations--Wives and
Slaves--Situation of the Town, and Soil

CHAPTER IV. 58

Strange Articles of Food--Native Cookery--The River Amissa--Reception
by the Caboceer of Amissa--Soil, Fruits, &c.--An
Adventure--Visit from a Hyena--The River Anaqua--Arsafah--Soil,
Fruits, &c.--Beautiful Birds--Moors and
Arabs here--Cattle--Return to Cape Coast--Hospitable Reception
there--Invitation from the King of Ashantee--My
Reply--Visit the Neighbourhood of Cape Coast--Coffee
Plantations--Indolence of the Natives--The Town of Napoleon--Eyau
Awkwano--Fruits Growing Spontaneously--Bad Roads--Singular
Mode of Carrying Timber--Cotton Trees--The
Dwarf Cotton Shrub--Scene of a Sanguinary Battle--Djewkwa--Native
Houses--An Intoxicated Caboceer--The Caboceer’s
Presents--Account of him--Return to Cape Coast--Sail for
Whydah--Winnebah--Method of Curing Fish--Natives--Stock--Neighbouring
Country--The Devil’s Hill--Soil--Yanwin
(samphire)--The River Jensu--Beautiful Birds--The King-fisher