Chapter I

LAHORE.
Page
Departure from Delhi.--Communication from Runjeet
Sing.--Himalaya.--Villages on the Sutlege: People.--Banks
of the Sutlege.--Physical Phenomena of Rivers.--Altars of
Alexander.--Enter the Punjab.--Our Welcome chanted.--Civilities
at Hurree.--Seik Fanatics.--Manja; country so called.--Antient
Canals.--Town of Puttee.--Stud of Horses at Puttee.--An Acali,
or Fanatic.--A Seik Chief and his Castle.--Famous Road of
Juhangeer.--Enter Lahore.--Visit the Maharaja.--Earthquake
at Lahore.--Join Runjeet Sing in the Field.--Description
of his Camp.--Runjeet Sing marching.--Conversations of
Runjeet Sing.--Superb Cashmere Tents.--A Visit from the
Physician-general.--Runjeet Sing sporting.--Conversations of
Runjeet Sing.--Return to Lahore.--Festival of the Busunt, or
Spring.--Entertainment by the Maharaja.--Preparations for our
Journey.--Kindness of Messrs. Allard and Court.--Audience of
Leave.--Mons. Court’s Instructions 1-38

CHAP. II.

ACROSS THE PUNJAB TO THE INDUS.

Quit Lahore.--Reduction of Baggage.--Arrangements.--Garden
described.--Himalaya.--Reach the Chenab or Acesines.--Soil
and Wells.--Sugar.--A Seik Chief.--Seiks: Peculiarities of
the Tribe.--Cross the Chenab.--Diseases: Opinions regarding
them.--Cross the Jelum, or Hydaspes.--Arrival at Pind Dadun
Khan.--Antiquities.--Salt Mines of Pind Dadun Khan.--Position
of the Salt Range.--Formation, &c.--Mines, Strata,
Temperature.--Manner of working the Salt.--Its Quality.--Supply
of the Mineral.--Banks of the Hydaspes.--Villages.--Scene
of Porus’s Battle.--Extensive Ruins.--Speculations.--Nicæ
and Bucephalia.--Porus’s Army compared with Runjeet
Sing’s.--Floating Islands.--Costume of the Ladies.--Arrival
at Rotas.--Fortress.--Nature and Formation of Rocks.--Tope of
Manikyala.--Coins and Antiques.--Manikyala identified with
Taxilla.--Rawil Pindee.--Marks of quitting India.--Hurdwar
Pilgrims: Reflections on seeing them.--Seik Priest.--Pass
of Margulla.--Tope of Belur.--Garden of Hoosn Abdall.--See
the Indus.--Encamp on the Indus.--Ford it.--Story of a
Soldier.--Attok.--Phenomenon at Attok.--Washing Gold 39-80

CHAP. III.

PESHAWUR.

Entrance into the Country of the Afghans.--Precautionary
Arrangements.--Farewell Letter to Runjeet Sing.--Salt
Monopoly.--Fields of Battle.--Entrance into Peshawur.--Afghan
Entertainment.--Visitors.--Ride out with the Chief.--His
Character.--Afghan manner of spending Friday.--Horrible
Spectacle.--Brother of the Chief.--Arrangements for our
Advance.--The Chief and his Court.--Visitors.--Juvenile
Intelligence.--Rambles in Peshawur.--Quail
fighting.--Hawking.--Moollah Nujeeb.--A Saint.--Disadvantages
of giving Medicine.--Antiquities.--Conclusions regarding the
“Topes.”--Preparations for Departure.--Maître d’Hôtel of the
Chief 81-111

CHAP. IV.

JOURNEY TO CABOOL.

Departure from Peshawur.--Khyberees.--Passage of
the Cabool River.--Caravan.--Scene in the Cabool
River.--Mountains.--Formation of the Hills.--Interview with a
Momund Chief.--Civility of a Khyberee.--Incident.--Pestilential
Wind.--Antiquities.--Julalabad.--Snowy
Mountains.--Bala-bagh.--Treatment by the
People.--Gundamuk.--Cold Countries.--Neemla.--Manner of keeping
Horses.--Jugduluk.--Post-houses of the Emperors.--Wandering
Ghiljees.--Pastoral Scenes.--Ispahan.--Story of Futtih
Khan.--Pass of Luta-bund.--Arrival in Cabool.--Our Conductor,
Mahommed Shureeff 112-132

CHAP. V.

CABOOL.

Arrival of Mr. Wolff.--Nawab Jubbar Khan.--Introduction to
the Chief of Cabool.--Conversations.--Tomb of the Emperor
Baber.--Prospect.--Intercourse with the People.--Cabool; its
Bazars.--Traditions.--Coins.--Armenians.--Entertainment.--Gardens
of Cabool.--Fruits and Wines.--Bala Hissar, or
Prison.--Difference in Asiatic and European Manners.--Eed,
or Festival.--Tomb of Timour Shah.--Alchymy and
Minerals.--Freemasonry.--Jewish Origin of the Afghans;
Opinions regarding it.--Party.--The Kaffirs, a singular
People.--Preparations.--Shikarpooree Merchants.--Money
Arrangements.--Civilisation by Commerce 133-170

CHAP. VI.

JOURNEY OVER THE HINDOO KOOSH, OR SNOWY MOUNTAINS.

Quit Cabool.--Cafila-bashee.--Contraband
Korans.--Julraiz.--Valley of the Cabool River.--Fish
Preserve.--Ghuzni.--Pass of Oonna.--Effects of Snow.--Family
of Huzaras.--Goître.--Ali Illahi.--Yezdan Buksh Huzara.--Pass
of Hajeeguk and Kaloo.--Mountain Scenery.--Bameean excavated
City.--Idols of Bameean.--Geographical Errors.--Leave
Afghanistan.--Uzbek Chief of Syghan.--Feelings on entering
Tartary.--Pass of Dundan Shikun.--Ruhmut oollah Khan.--Uzbek
Pity.--Mahommedan Law.--Companions.--Asiatic Opinions of
Europe.--Pass of Kara Koottul.--Adventures.--Life of a
Traveller.--Modes of Salutation.--Tremendous Defiles.--Poisonous
Plant.--Heibuk reptiles.--Houses.--People.--Khooloom and Plains
of Tartary 171-206

CHAP. VII.

SERIOUS DIFFICULTIES.--JOURNEY TO KOONDOOZ.

Difficulties at Khooloom.--Sketch of Moorcroft’s
disasters.--Departure for Koondooz.--Favourable
Opportunity for escape.--Night Adventure.--My Account of
myself.--Imbecility of our Conductor.--Visiters, manner of
Tea-drinking.--Traditions of Alexander the Great.--Interview
with the Chief of Koondooz.--Incidents illustrative of Uzbek
Character.--Koondooz; its Chief.--Departure from Koondooz.--Quit
Khooloom.--Avaricious Conduct of our Conductor.--Dangers of the
Road to Balkh.--Mirage.--Muzar.--Tomb of Mr. Trebeck.--Arrival
at Balkh.--Intelligence of the Cafila-bashee 207-236

CHAP. VIII.

BALKH, AND JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

Description of Balkh.--Climate.--Coins found at
Balkh.--Cafila-bashee.--Grave of Mr. Moorcroft.--Quit
Balkh.--Ancient Bactriana.--Correctness of Quintus
Curtius.--Desert of the Toorkmuns.--Reach the Oxus.--Singular
manner of crossing it.--The Caravan.--Kiz Kooduk.--A
Khwaju.--Literature.--Amazons of Lakay.--Kirkinjuk.--A
Slave.--Knotty Points.--Snowy Mountains.--Kurshee.--Sickness
of our Party.--Alarms of a Traveller.--Letter
to the Minister of Bokhara.--Kurshee.--Market
at Karsan.--Uzbeks.--Abdoolla Khan; his
Munificence.--Acquaintances.--Fatigues.--Reflections.--Arrival
in Bokhara 237-266

CHAP. IX.

BOKHARA.

Change of Dress.--Visit the Minister.--Suspicions regarding
us.--Description of the Registan, or great Bazar of
Bokhara.--Employments in the Bazar.--Society at Bokhara.--Slave
Bazar at Bokhara.--Offenders against Mahommedanism.--Hindoos.--A
Wanderer.--An Indian Sepoy.--A pretty Fair One.--Costume.--Baths
of Bokhara.--Interview with the Minister.--The King.--Life of a
King.--Russian Slaves.--Acquaintances at Bokhara 267-299

CHAP. X.

BOKHARA.

The City of Bokhara.--Historical Sketch of it.--Colleges of
Bokhara.--Rigour of Mahommedanism.--Literature of Central
Asia.--Interview with the Vizier.--Samarcand.--Tomb of Bhawa
Deen.--An Ancient City, Coins, &c.--An Uzbek Family.--Bokhara
on Friday.--Arrangements.--Farewell Visit to the
Vizier.--Departure 300-329

CHAP. XI.

DETENTION IN THE KINGDOM OF BOKHARA.

Detention of the Caravan.--Assemblage of
Merchants.--Country between Bokhara and the
Oxus.--Intercourse with the Toorkmuns.--A Toorkmun
Acquaintance.--Ersaree Toorkmuns.--Slavery in
Toorkistan.--Fellow-travellers.--Music.--Our own Party.--Ruins
of Bykund.--Alexander’s Marches.--Reply from the Khan of
Orgunje.--Uzbek Customs.--Preparations for Departure.--Receive
Letters from India.--Reflections 330-356

NARRATIVE.