Chapter VI: Front Matter (6)

This snake is very greedy of milk, and it is difficult to keep it out, when it is once used to go into a cellar where milk is kept. It has been seen eating milk out of the same dish with children, without biting them, though they often gave it blows with the spoon upon the head, when it was overgreedy. I never heard it hissing. It can raise more than one half of its body from the ground, in order to look about her. It skins every year; and its skin is said to be a remedy against the cramp, if continually worn about the body.

The rye was now beginning to flower.

I have often observed with astonishment, on my travels, the great difference between the plants and the soil, on the two opposite banks of brooks. Sometimes a brook, which one can stride over, has plants on one bank widely different from those on the opposite bank. Therefore, whenever I came to a great brook or a river, I expected to find plants which I had not met with before. Their seeds are carried down with the stream from distant parts. The soil is likewise very often different on the different sides of a rivulet, being rich and fertile on the one, and dry, barren, and sandy on the other. But a great river can make still greater differences. Thus we see the great disparity between the province of Pensylvania, and New Jersey, which are only divided by the river Delaware. In Pensylvania the soil consists of a mould mixed with sand and clay, and is very rich and fertile: and in the woods which are higher in the country, the ground is mountainous and stony. On the other hand, in the province of New Jersey, the soil is poor and dry, and not very fertile, some parts excepted. You can hardly find a stone in New Jersey, and much less mountains. In Pensylvania you scarce ever see a fir-tree, and in New Jersey are whole woods of it.

This evening I arrived at Philadelphia.

May the 22d. The locusts began to creep out of their holes in the ground last night, and continued to do so to-day. As soon as their wings were dry, they began their song, which is almost sufficient to make one deaf, when travelling through the woods. This year there was an immense number of them. I have given a minute account of them, of their food, qualities, &c. in the Memoirs of the Swedish Royal Academy of Sciences [55]; it is therefore needless to repeat it here, and I refer the reader to the quoted place.

May the 25th. The tulip-tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) was now in full blossom. The flowers have a resemblance to tulips, and look very fine, and though they have not a very agreeable smell, yet the eye is pleased to see trees as tall as full-grown oaks, covered with tulip-like flowers.

On the flowers of the tulip-tree was an olive-coloured Chafer (Scarabæus) without horns (muticus), the future and borders of his wing-shells (Elytræ) were black, and his thighs brown. I cannot with certainty say whether they collected the pollen of the flower, or whether they coupled. Later in summer, I saw the same kind of beetles make deep holes into the ripe mulberries, either to eat them, or to lay their eggs in them. I likewise found them abundant in the leaves of the Magnolia glauca, or beaver-tree.

The strawberries were now ripe on the hills.

The country people already brought ripe cherries up to town; but they were only a few to satisfy curiosity, yet we may form a judgment of the climate from hence.

May the 26th. A peculiar kind of storm called a Travat, or Travado, happened to-day. In the evening about ten o’clock, when the sky was quite clear, a thick, black cloud came rushing from the south-west, with a wind. The air was quite calm, and we could not feel any breeze. But the approach of this cloud was perceived from the strong rushing noise in the woods to the south-west, and which encreased in proportion as the cloud came nearer. As soon as it was come up to us, it was attended by a violent gust of wind, which in its course threw down the weaker enclosures, carried them a good way along with it, and broke down several trees. It was then followed by a hard shower of rain, which put an end to the storm, and every thing was calm as before. These travadoes are frequent in summer, and have the quality of cooling the air. However, they often do a deal of damage. They are commonly attended by thunder and lightning; as soon as they are passed over, the sky is as clear as it was before.

May the 28th. The Magnolia glauca was now in full bloom. Its flowers have a very pleasant fragrancy, which refreshes the travellers in the woods, especially towards the evening. The flowers of the wild vine afterwards supplied the place of those of the Magnolia. Several other flowers contribute likewise towards perfuming the ambient air.

The Kalmia angustifolia was now every where in flower. It grows chiefly on sandy heaths, or on dry poor grounds, which few other plants will agree with; it is common in Pensylvania, but particularly in New Jersey, and the province of New York, it is scarce in Canada; its leaves stay the winter; the flowers are a real ornament to the woods; they grow in bunches like crowns, and are of a fine lively purple colour; at the bottom is a circle of deep purple, and within it a greyish or whitish colour. The flowers grow as aforesaid, in bunches, round the extremity of the stalk, and make it look like a decorated pyramid. The English at New York call this plant the Dwarf Laurel. Its qualities are the same with those of the Kalmia latifolia, viz. that it kills sheep and other lesser animals, when they eat plentifully of it. I do not know whether it is noxious to the greater cattle. It is not of any known use, and only serves to attract the eye whilst in flower.

The Kalmia latifolia was likewise in full blossom at present. It rivals the preceding one, in the beauty of its colour; yet though they are conspicuous in regard to the colours and shape of their flowers, they are no ways remarkable for smell, such as the Magnolia is; for they have little or no smell at all. So equally and justly does nature distribute her gifts; no part of the creation has them all, each has its own, and none is absolutely without a share of them.

May the 30th. The Moravian Brethren, who arrived in great numbers from Europe, at New York, in May, brought two converted Greenlanders with them. The Moravians who were already settled in America, immediately sent some of their brethren from Philadelphia to the new comers, in order to welcome them. Among these deputies were two North American Indians, who had been converted to their doctrine, and likewise two South American Indians, from Surinam. These three kinds of converted Indians accordingly met at New York. I had no opportunity of seeing them; but all those who had seen them, and whom I conversed with, thought that they had plainly perceived a similarity in their features and shape, the Greenlanders being only somewhat smaller. They concluded from hence, that all these three kinds of Americans were the posterity of one and the same descendant of Noah, or that they were perhaps yet more nearly related. How far their guesses are to be relied upon, I cannot determine.

Ripe cherries were now already pretty common, and consequently cheap.

Yams are a species of roots, which are cultivated in the hottest parts of America, for eating, as we do potatoes. It has not yet been attempted to plant them here, and they are brought from the West Indies in ships; therefore they are reckoned a rarity here, and as such I ate them at Dr. Franklin’s to-day. They are white, and taste like common potatoes, but not quite so agreeable; and I think it would not be worth while to plant them in Sweden, though they might bear the climate. The plant these roots belong to is the Dioscorea alata.

The inhabitants make plenty of cheese. They are not reckoned so good as English cheese: however, some take them to be full as good when old; and so they seemed to me. A man from Boston in New-England told me, that they made very good cheese there: but they take care to keep the cattle from salt water, especially those who live near the sea-coasts; for it has been found, that the cheese will not become so good when the cows graze near salt water, as it will when they have fresh water. This, however, wants nearer examination, in my opinion.

May the 31st. About noon I left Philadelphia, and went on board a small yacht, which sails continually up and down upon the river Delaware, between Trenton and Philadelphia. We sailed up the river with fair wind and weather. Sturgeons leaped often a fathom into the air. We saw them continuing this exercise all day, till we came to Trenton. The banks on the Pensylvanian side were low; and those on the New Jersey side steep and sandy, but not very high. On both sides we perceived forests of tall trees, with deciduous leaves.

During the course of this month, the forenoon was always calm; but immediately after noon it began to blow gently, and sometimes pretty strongly. This morning was likewise fair; and in the afternoon it was cloudy, but did not rain.

The banks of the river were sometimes high, and sometimes low. We saw some small houses near the shore, in the woods; and, now and then, a good house built of stone. The river now decreased visibly in breadth. About three o’clock this afternoon we passed Burlington.

Burlington, the chief town in the province of New Jersey, and the residence of the governor, is but a small town, about twenty miles from Philadelphia, on the eastern side of the Delaware. The houses were chiefly built of stone, though they stood far distant from each other. The town has a good situation, since ships of considerable burden can sail close up to it: but Philadelphia prevents its carrying on an extensive trade; for the proprietors of that place [56] have granted it great immunities, by which it is increased so as to swallow all the trade of the adjacent towns. The house of the governor at Burlington is but a small one: it is built of stone, close by the river side, and is the first building in the town as you come from Philadelphia. It is observed, that about the full moons, when the tides are highest, and the high water at Cape Hinlopen comes at nine o’clock in the morning, it will be at Chester, on the river Delaware, about ten minutes after one o’clock; at Philadelphia, about ten minutes after two o’clock; and at Burlington, about ten minutes after three o’clock; for the tide in the river Delaware comes quite up to Trenton. These observations were communicated to me by Mr. Lewis Evans.

The banks of the river were now chiefly high and steep on the side of New Jersey, consisting of a pale brick-coloured soil. On the Pensylvanian side, they were gently sloping, and consisted of a blackish rich mould, mixed with particles of Glimmer (Mica). On the New Jersey side appeared some firs; but seldom on the other, except in a few places where they were accidentally brought over from New Jersey.

Towards night, after the tide had begun to ebb and the wind was quite subsided, we could not proceed, but dropped our anchor about seven miles from Trenton, and passed the night there. The woods were full of Fireflies, (Lampyris) which flew like sparks of fire between the trees, and sometimes across the river. In the marshes, the Bullfrogs now and then began their hideous roaring; and more than a hundred of them roared together. The Whip-poor-will, or Goatsucker, was likewise heard every where.

June the 1st. We continued our voyage this morning, after the rain was over. The river Delaware was very narrow here, and the banks the same as we found them yesterday, after we had passed Burlington. About eight o’clock in the morning we arrived at Trenton [57].

June the 2d. This morning we left Trenton, and proceeded towards New York. The country I have described before [58]. The fields were sown with wheat, rye, maize, oats, hemp, and flax. In several places, we saw very large pieces of ground with hemp.

We saw abundance of chesnut-trees in the woods. They often stood in excessive poor ground, which was neither too dry nor too wet.

Tulip-trees did not appear on the road; but the people said there were some in the woods.

The Beaver-tree (Magnolia glauca) grows in the swamps. It was now in flower, and the fragrancy of its blossoms had so perfumed the air, that one could enjoy it before one approached the swamps; and this fine smell likewise shewed that a beaver-tree was near us, though we often happened not to see it.

The Phlox Glaberrima grows abundantly in the woods, and cuts a fine figure with its red flowers. It grows in such soil here as in Europe is occupied by the Lychnis viscaria and Lychnis dioica, or red Catchfly and Campion. The Phlox maculata grows abundantly in wet ground, and has fine red and odoriferous flowers. It grows on low meadows, where in Europe the Meadow-pinks, or Lychnis flos cuculi, would be met with. By adding to these flowers the Bartsia coccinea, the Lobelia cardinalis, and the Monarda didyma, which grow wild in this country, they are undoubtedly altogether adorned with the finest red imaginable.

The Sassafras-tree was abundant in the woods, and near the inclosures.

The houses which we passed by were most of them wooden. In one place, I saw the people building a house with walls of mere clay, which is likewise employed in making ovens for baking.

Buckwheat was already coming up in several places. We saw single plants of it all day in the woods, and in the fields, but always by the side of the road; from whence it may be concluded, that they spring up from lost and scattered seeds.

Late this evening we arrived at New Brunswick [59].

June the 3d. At noon we went on board a yacht bound for New York, and sailed down the river, which had at first pretty high and steep banks, of red sandstone, on each side, which I have mentioned before. [60] Now and then, there was a farm-house on the high shore. As we came lower down, we saw on both sides great fields and meadows, close up to the water. We could not sail at random with the yacht; for the river was often shallow in some places, and sometimes in the very middle. For that purpose, the course which we were to take was marked out by branches with leaves on them. At last we got into the sea, which bounded our prospect on the south; but on the other side, we were continually in sight of land at some distance. On coming to the mouth of the river, we had a choice of two roads to New York; viz. either within the Staten Island, or without it. The inhabitants are determined in their choice by the weather; for when it is stormy and cloudy, or dark, they do not venture to sail without, where the sea itself communicates. We took that course now, it being very pleasant weather; and though we struck on the sands once or twice, yet we got loose again, and arrived at New York about nine o’clock. Of this town I have given an account in the preceding volume [61].

June the 4th. I found vines in several gardens, got from the old countries. They bear annually a quantity of excellent grapes. When the winters are very severe, they are killed by the frost, and die quite to the ground; but the next spring new shoots spring up from the root.

Strawberries were now sold in abundance about the town every day. An Englishman from Jamaica asserted, that in that island there were no strawberries. The snakes are very fond of strawberries. Those which they had here were not so good as the Swedish and Finland ones.

Red Clover was sown in several places on the hills without the town. The country people were now employed in mowing the meadows. Some were already mown; and the dry clover was put under cover, in order to be carried away the first opportunity.

Cherry-trees were planted in great quantities before the farm-houses, and along the high-roads, from Philadelphia to New Brunswick; but behind that place they became more scarce. On coming to Staten Island, in the province of New York, I found them very common again, near the gardens. Here are not so many varieties of cherries as there are in Pensylvania. I seldom saw any of the black sweet cherries [62] at New York; but commonly the sour red ones. All travellers are allowed to pluck ripe fruit in any garden which they pass by; and not even the most covetous farmer can hinder them from so doing. Between New Brunswick and Staten Island, are a few cherry-gardens; but proportionably more orchards, with apple-trees.

June the 6th. Several gentlemen and merchants, between fifty and sixty years of age, asserted, that during their life they had plainly found several kinds of fish decrease in number every year; and that they could not get near so many fish now as they could formerly.

Rum, a brandy prepared from the sugar-canes, and in great use with all the English North American colonies, is reckoned much wholesomer than brandy, made from wine or corn [63]. In confirmation of this opinion, they say, that if you put a piece of fresh meat into rum, and another into brandy, and leave them there for some months; that in the rum will keep as it was, but that in the brandy will be quite eaten, and full of holes. But this experiment does not seem a very accurate one to me. Major Roderfort told me, that being upon the Canada expedition, he had observed, that such of his men as drank brandy for some time died of it; but those who drank rum were not hurt, though they got drunk with it every day, and oftener than the others.

Long-Island is the name of an island opposite the town of New York, in the sea. The northern part of the island is much more fertile than the southern. Formerly there lived a number of Indians on this island; and there are yet some, which however decrease in number every year, because they leave the island. The soil of the southern part of the island is very poor; but this deficiency is made up by a vast quantity of oysters, lobsters, crabs, several kinds of fish, and numbers of water fowl, all which are there far more abundant than on the northern shores of the Island. Therefore the Indians formerly chose the southern part to live in, because they subsisted on oysters, and other productions of the sea. When the tide is out, it is very easy to fill a whole cart with oysters, which have been driven on shore by one flood. The Island is strewed with oystershells and other shells, which the Indians left there; these shells serve now for good manure for the fields. The southern part of the Island is turned into meadows, and the northern part into fields. The winter is more constant on the northern part, and the snow in spring lies longer there than on the southern part. The people are very fertile here, and commonly tall and strong.

June the 10th. At noon we left New York, and sailed up the river Hudson, in a yacht bound for Albany. All this afternoon we saw a whole fleet of little boats returning from New York, whither they had brought provisions and other goods for sale, which on account of the extensive commerce of this town, and the great number of its inhabitants, go off very well. The river Hudson runs from North to South here, except some high pieces of land which sometimes project far into it, and alter its direction; its breadth at the mouth is reckoned about a mile and a quarter. Some porpesses played and tumbled in the river. The eastern shore, or the New York side, was at first very steep and high; but the western was very sloping and covered with woods. There appeared farm-houses on both sides, surrounded with corn-fields. The ground of which the steep shores consisted was of a pale brick colour, and some little rocks of a grey sand-stone were seen here and there. About ten or twelve miles from New York, the western shore appears quite different from what it was before; it consists of steep mountains with perpendicular sides towards the river, and they are exactly like the steep sides of the mountains of Hall and Hunnebarg in West Gothland. Sometimes a rock projects like the salliant angle of a bastion: the tops of these mountains are covered with oaks, and other wood; a number of stones of all sizes lay along the shore, having rolled down from the mountains.

These high and steep mountains continue for some English miles on the western shore; but on the eastern side the land is high, and sometimes diversified with hills and valleys, which are commonly covered with deciduous trees, amongst which there appears a farm now and then in a glade. The hills are covered with stones in some places. About twelve miles from New York we saw Sturgeons [64] (Acipenser Sturio), leaping up out of the water, and on the whole passage we met with porpesses in the river. As we proceeded we found the eastern banks of the river very much cultivated; and a number of pretty farms surrounded with orchards and fine corn-fields, presented themselves to our view. About twenty-two miles from New York, the high mountains which I have before mentioned left us, and made as it were a high ridge here from east to west quite across the country. This altered the face of the country on the western shore of the river: from mountainous, it became interspersed with little vallies and round hillocks, which were scarce inhabited at all; but the eastern shore continued to afford us a delightful prospect. After sailing a little while in the night, we cast our anchor and lay here till the morning, especially as the tide was ebbing with great force.

June the 11th. This morning we continued our voyage up the river, with the tide and a faint breeze. We now passed the Highland mountains, which were to the East of us; they consist of a grey sandstone, are very high and pretty steep, and covered with deciduous trees, and likewise with firs and red cedars. The western shore was full of rocks, which however did not come up to the height of the mountains on the opposite shore; the tops of these eastern mountains were cut off from our sight by a thick fog which surrounded them. The country was unfit for cultivation, being so full of rocks, and accordingly we saw no farms. The distance from these mountains to New York is computed at thirty-six English miles.

A thick fog now rose up from the high mountains. For the space of some English miles, we had hills and rocks on the western banks of the river; and a change of lesser and greater mountains and vallies covered with young firs, red cedars, and oaks, on the eastern side. The hills close to the river side are commonly low, but their height increases as they are further from the river. Afterwards we saw, for some miles together, nothing but high round mountains and valleys, both covered with woods; the valleys are in reality nothing but low rocks, and stand perpendicular towards the river in many places. The breadth of the river is sometimes two or three musket shot, but commonly not above one; every now and then we saw several kinds of fish leaping out of the water. The wind vanished away about ten o’clock in the morning, and forced us to get forwards with our oars, the tide being almost spent. In one place on the western shore we saw a wooden house painted red, and we were told, that there was a saw-mill further up; but besides this we did not perceive one farm or any cultivated grounds all this forenoon.

The water in the river has here no more a brackish taste; yet I was told that the tide, especially when the wind is South, sometimes carries the salt water up higher with it. The colour of the water was likewise altered, for it appeared darker here than before. To account for the first origin of rivers is very difficult, if not wholly impossible; some rivers may have come from a great reservoir of water, which being considerably encreased by heavy falls of rain or other circumstances, passed its old bounds and flowed to the lower countries, through the places where it met with the least opposition. This is perhaps the reason why some rivers run in so many bendings equally through fields of soft earth, as likewise there, where mountains, rocks, and stones, divert their passage. However it seems that some rivers derive their first origin from the creation itself, and that Providence then pointed out their course; for their existence can, in all probability, not be owing to the accidental eruption of water alone. Among these rivers we may rank the river Hudson: I was surprised on seeing its course, and the variety of its shores. It takes its rise a good way above Albany, and descends to New York, in a direct line from North to South, which is a distance of about a hundred and sixty English miles, and perhaps more; for the little bendings which it makes are of no signification. In many places between New York and Albany, are ridges of high mountains running West and East. But it is remarkable that they go on undisturbed till they come to the river Hudson, which cuts directly across them, and frequently their sides stand perpendicular towards the river. There is an opening left in the chain of mountains, as broad as the river commonly is, for it to pass through, and the mountains go on as before, on the other side, in the same direction. It is likewise remarkable, that the river in such places where it passes through the mountains is as deep, and often deeper than in the other places. The perpendicular rocks on the sides of the river are surprising, and it appears that if no passages had been opened by Providence, for the river to pass through, the mountains in the upper part of the country would have been inundated, since these mountains, like so many dykes, would have hindered the water from going on. Quere, Why does this river go on in a direct line for so considerable a distance? Why do the many passages, through which the river flows across the mountains, ly under the same meridian? Why are water-falls near some of these passages, or at least shallow water with a rocky ground?

We now perceived excessive high and steep mountains on both sides of the river, which echoed back each sound we uttered. Yet notwithstanding they were so high and steep, they were covered with small trees.

The Blue Mountains, which reared their towering tops above all the other mountains, were now seen before us, towards North, but at a great distance.

The country began here to look more cultivated, and less mountainous.

The last of the high western mountains is called Butterhill, after which the country between the mountains grows more spacious. The farms became very numerous, and we had a prospect of many corn-fields, between the hills: before we passed these hills we had the wind in our face, and we could only get forward by tacking, which went very slow, as the river was hardly a musket-shot in breadth. Afterwards we cast anchor, because we had both wind and tide against us.

Whilst we waited for the return of tide and the change of wind, we went on shore.

The Sassafras-tree (Laurus Sassafras) and the chesnut-tree grows here in great abundance. I found the tulip-tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) in some parts of the wood, as likewise the Kalmia latifolia, which was now in full blossom; though the flowers were already withering.

Some time after noon the wind arose from South-west, which being a fair wind, we weighed anchor, and continued our voyage. The place where we lay at anchor, was just the end of those steep and amazing high mountains: their height is very amazing; they consist of grey rock stone, and close to them, on the shore, lay a vast number of little stones. As soon as we had passed these mountains, the country became clearer of mountains, and higher. The river likewise encreased in breadth, so as to be near an English mile broad. After sailing for some time, we found no more mountains along the river; but on the eastern side goes a high chain of mountains to the north-east, whose sides are covered with woods, up to one half of their height. The summits however are quite barren; for I suppose that nothing would grow there, on account of the great degree of heat [65], dryness, and the violence of the wind, to which that part is exposed. The eastern side of the river is much more cultivated than the western, where we seldom saw a house, the land being covered with woods, though it is in general very level. About fifty-six English miles from New York the country is not very high; yet it is every where covered with woods, except some new farms which were scattered here and there. The high mountains which we left in the afternoon, now appeared above the woods and the country. These mountains, which were called the Highlands, did not project more North than the other, in the place where we anchored. Their sides (not those towards the river) were seldom perpendicular, but sloping, so that one could climb up to the top, though not without difficulty.

On several high grounds near the river, the people burnt lime. The master of the yacht told me, that they break a fine blueish grey limestone in the high grounds, along both sides of the river, for the space of some English miles, and burn lime of it. But at some miles distance there is no more limestone, and they find also none on the banks till they come to Albany.

We passed by a little neck of land, which projected on the western side in the river, and was called Dance. The name of this place is said to derive its origin from a festival which the Dutch celebrated here in former times, and at which they danced and diverted themselves; but once there came a number of Indians, who killed them all.

We cast anchor late at night, because the wind ceased and the tide was ebbing. The depth of the river is twelve fathoms here.

The fire-flies passed the river in numbers, at night, and sometimes settled upon the rigging.

June the 12th. This morning we proceeded with the tide, but against the wind. The river was here a musket-shot broad. The country in general is low on both sides, consisting of low rocks, and stony fields, which are however covered with woods. It is so rocky, stony, and poor, that nobody can settle in it, or inhabit it, there being no spot of ground fit for a corn-field. The country continued to have the same appearance for the space of some miles, and we never perceived one settlement. At eleven o’clock this morning we came to a little island, which lies in the middle of the river, and is said to be half-way between New York and Albany. The shores are still low, stony, and rocky, as before. But at a greater distance we saw high mountains, covered with woods, chiefly on the western shore, raising their tops above the rest of the country; and still further off, the Blue Mountains rose up above them. Towards noon it was quite calm, and we went on very slow. Here, the land is well cultivated, especially on the eastern shore, and full of great corn-fields; yet the soil seemed sandy. Several villages lay on the eastern side, and one of them, called Strasburg, was inhabited by a number of Germans. To the West we saw several cultivated places. The Blue Mountains are very plainly to be seen here. They appear through the clouds, and tower above all other mountains. The river is full an English mile broad opposite Strasburg.

They make use of a yellow Agaricus, or mushroom, which grows on maple-trees, for tinder; that which is found on the red-flowering maple (Acer rubrum) is reckoned the best, and next in goodness is that of the Sugar-maple (Acer saccarinum), which is sometimes reckoned as good as the former.

Rhinbeck is a place at some distance from Strasburg, further off from the river. It is inhabited by many Germans, who have a church there. Their clergyman at present was the Rev. Mr. Hartwig, who knew some Swedish, having been at Gothenburg for some time. This little town is not visible from the river-side.

At two in the afternoon it began again to blow from the south, which enabled us to proceed. The country on the eastern side is high, and consists of a well cultivated soil. We had fine corn-fields, pretty farms, and good orchards, in view. The western shore is likewise somewhat high, but still covered with woods, and we now and then, though seldom, saw one or two little settlements. The river is above an English mile broad in most places, and comes in a strait line from the North, so that we could not sometimes follow it with our eye.

June the 13th. The wind favoured our voyage during the whole night, so that I had no opportunity of observing the nature of the country. This morning at five o’clock we were but nine English miles from Albany. The country on both sides the river is low, and covered with woods, excepting a few little scattered settlements. Under the higher shores of the river are wet meadows, covered with sword-grass (Carex), and they formed several little islands. We saw no mountains; and hastened towards Albany. The land on both sides of the river is chiefly low, and more carefully cultivated as we came nearer to Albany.

As to the houses, which we saw, some were of wood, others of stone. The river is seldom above a musket-shot broad, and in several parts of it are sands, which require great experience for governing the yachts. At eight o’clock in the morning we arrived at Albany.

All the yachts which ply between Albany and New York, belong to Albany. They go up and down the river Hudson, as long as it is open and free from ice. They bring from Albany boards or planks, and all sorts of timber, flour, pease, and furs, which they get from the Indians, or which are smuggled from the French. They come home almost empty, and only bring a few merchandizes with them, among which rum is the chief. This last is absolutely necessary to the inhabitants of Albany; they cheat the Indians in the fur trade with it; for when the Indians are drunk, they will leave it to the Albanians to fix the price of the furs. The yachts are pretty large, and have a good cabbin, in which the passengers can be very commodiously lodged. They are commonly built of red Cedar, or of white Oak. Frequently, the bottom consists of white oak, and the sides of red cedar, because the latter withstands putrefaction much longer than the former. The red cedar is likewise apt to split, when it hits against any thing, and the river Hudson is in many parts full of sands and rocks, against which the keel of the yacht sometimes hits; therefore they choose white oak for the bottom, as being the softer wood, and not splitting so easily: and the bottom being continually under water, is not so much exposed to putrefaction, and holds out longer.

The Canoes which the yachts have along with them, are made of a single piece of wood, hollowed out; they are sharp on both ends, frequently three or four fathoms long, and as broad as the thickness of the wood will allow. The people in it do not row sitting, but commonly a fellow stands at each end, with a short oar in his hand, with which he governs and brings the canoe forwards. Those which are made here at Albany, are commonly of the white Pine; they can do service for eight or twelve years, especially if they be tarred and painted. At Albany they make them of the white pine, since there is no other wood fit for them; at New York they are made of the tulip-tree, and in other parts they are made of red or white cedars: but both these trees are so small, in the neighbourhood of Albany, that they are unfit for canoes; there are no seats in the canoes, for if they had any, they would be more liable to be overset, as one could not keep the equilibrium so well.

Battoes [66] are another kind of boats, which are much in use in Albany: they are made of boards of white pine; the bottom is flat, that they may row the better in shallow water; they are sharp at both ends, and somewhat higher towards the end than in the middle. They have seats in them, and are rowed as common boats. They are long, yet not all alike, commonly three, and sometimes four fathoms long. The height from the bottom to the top of the board (for the sides stand almost perpendicular) is from twenty inches to two feet, and the breadth in the middle about a yard and six inches. They are chiefly made use of for carrying goods, by means of the rivers, to the Indians; that is, when those rivers are open enough for the battoes to pass through, and when they need not be carried by land a great way. The boats made of the bark of trees, break easily by knocking against a stone, and the canoes cannot carry a great cargo, and are easily overset; the battoes are therefore preferable to them both. I saw no boats here like those in Sweden, and other parts of Europe.

The frost does frequently a great deal of damage at Albany. There is hardly a month in summer during which a frost does not happen. The spring comes very late, and in April and May are numerous cold nights, which frequently kill the flowers of trees and kitchen-herbs. It was feared that the blossoms of the apple-trees had been so severely damaged by the frost, last May, that next autumn there would be but very few apples. The oak-blossoms are very often killed by the frost in the woods. The autumn here is of long continuance, with warm days and nights. However, the cold nights commonly commence towards the end of September, and are frequent in October. The people are forced to keep their cattle in stables, from the middle of November, till March or April, and must find them hay during that time [67].

During summer, the wind blows commonly from the South, and brings a great drought along with it. Sometimes it rains a little, and as soon as it has rained the wind veers to North West, blowing for several days from that point, and then returning to the South. I have had frequent opportunities of seeing this change of wind happen very exactly, both this year and the following.

June the 15th. The enclosures were made of boards of fir-wood, of which there is abundance in the extensive woods, and many saw-mills to cut it into boards.

The several sorts of apple-trees grow very well here, and bear as fine fruit as in any other part of North America. Each farm has a large orchard. They have some apples here, which are very large, and very palatable; they are sent to New York, and other places as a rarity. They make excellent cyder, in autumn, in the country round Albany.

All the kinds of cherry-trees, which have been planted here, succeed very well.

Pear-trees do not succeed here. This was complained of in many other parts of North America. But I fear that they do not take sufficient care in the management and planting of them; for I have seen fine pears in several parts of North America.

Peach-trees have often been planted here, and never would succeed well. This was attributed to a worm which lives in the ground, and eats through the root, so that the tree dies. Perhaps the severity of the winter contributes much to it.

They plant no other fruit-trees at Albany besides these I have mentioned.

They sow as much hemp and flax here, as they want for home consumption.

They sow maize in great abundance: A loose soil is reckoned the best for this purpose; for it will not grow in clay. From half a bushel they reap a hundred bushels. They reckon maize a very good kind of corn, because the shoot recovers after being hurt by the frost. They have had examples here of the shoots dying twice in spring, to the very ground, and yet they shot up again afterwards, and afforded an excellent crop. Maize has likewise the advantage of standing much longer against a drought, than wheat. The larger sort of maize which is commonly sown here, ripens in September.

They sow wheat in the neighbourhood of Albany, with great advantage. From one bushel they get twelve sometimes; if the soil be good, they get twenty bushels. If their crop amounts only to ten bushels from one, they think it very trifling. The inhabitants of the country round Albany, are Dutch and Germans. The Germans live in several great villages, and sow great quantities of wheat, which is brought to Albany; and from thence they send many yachts laden with flour to New York. The wheat-flour from Albany is reckoned the best in all North America, except that from Sopus or King’s Town, a place between Albany and New York. All the bread in Albany is made of wheat. At New York they pay the Albany flour with several Shillings more per hundred weight, than that from other places.

Rye is likewise sown here, but not so generally as wheat.

They do not sow much barley here, because they do not reckon the profits very great. Wheat is so plentiful that they make malt of it. In the neighbourhood of New York, I saw great fields sown with barley.

They do not sow more oats than are necessary for their horses.

The Dutch and Germans who live hereabouts, sow pease in great abundance; they succeed very well, and are annually carried to New York, in great quantities. They have been free from insects for a considerable time. But of late years the same beetles which destroy the pease in Pensylvania, New Jersey, and the lower parts of the province of New York [68], have likewise appeared abundant among the pease here. It is a real loss to this town, and to the other parts of North America, which used to get pease from hence for their own consumption, and that of their sailors. It had been found that if they procured good pease from Albany, and sowed them near King’s Town, or the lower part of the province of New York, they succeeded very well the first year, but were so full of worms the second, and following years, that nobody could or would eat them. Some people put ashes into the pot, among the pease, when they will not boil, or soften well; but whether this is wholesome and agreeable to the palate, I do not know.

Potatoes are generally planted. Some people preferred ashes to sand for keeping them in during winter.

The Bermuda Potatoes (Convolvulus Batatas) have likewise been planted here, and succeed pretty well. The greatest difficulty is to keep them during winter; for they generally rot in that season.

The Humming-bird (Trochilus Colubris) comes to this place sometimes; but is rather a scarce bird.

The shingles with which the houses are covered are made of the White Pine, which is reckoned as good and as durable, and sometimes better, than the White Cedar (Cupressus thyoides). The White Pine is found abundant here, in such places where common pines grow in Europe, I have never seen them in the lower parts of the province of New York, nor in New Jersey and Pensylvania. They saw a vast quantity of deal from the White Pine on this side of Albany, which are brought down to New York, and from thence exported.

The woods abound with vines, which likewise grow on the steep banks of the river in surprising quantities. They climbed to the tops of trees on the bank, and bent them by their weight. But where they found no trees, they hung down along the steep shores, and covered them entirely. The grapes are eaten after the frost has attacked them; for they are too sour before. They are not much used any other way.

The vast woods and uninhabited grounds, between Albany and Canada, contain immense swarms of gnats, which annoy the travellers. To be in some measure secured against these insects, some besmear their face with butter or grease; for the gnats do not like to settle on greasy places. The great heat makes boots very uneasy; but to prevent the gnats from stinging the legs, they wrap some paper round them, under the stockings. Some travellers wear caps which cover the whole face, and have some gauze before the eyes. At night they lie in tents, if they can carry any with them; and make a great fire at the entrance, by the smoke of which the gnats are driven away.

The porpesses seldom go higher up the river Hudson than the salt water goes; after that, the sturgeons fill their place. It has however sometimes happened, that porpesses have gone quite up to Albany.

There is a report, that a whale once came up the river quite to this town.

The Fireflies (Lampyris) which are the same that are so common in Pensylvania during summer, are seen here in abundance every night. They fly up and down in the streets of this town. They come into, the houses, if the doors and windows are open.

Several of the Pensylvanian trees are not to be met with in these woods; viz.

Magnolia glauca, the Beaver-tree.

Nyssa aquatica, the Tupelo-tree.

Liquidambar styraciflua, the Sweet-gum tree.

Diospyros Virginiana, the Persimon.

Liriodendron tulipifera, the Tulip-tree.

Juglans nigra, the black Walnut-tree.

Quercus ——, the Swamp Oak.

Cercis Canadensis, the Sallad-tree.

Robinia pseudacacia, the Locust-tree.

Gleditsia triacanthos, the Honey-locust tree.

Annona muricata, the Papaw-tree.

Celtis occidentalis, the Nettle-tree. And a number of shrubs, which are never found here.

The more northerly situation of the place, the height of the Blue Mountains, and the course of the rivers, which flow here southward into the sea, and accordingly carry the seeds of plants from north to south, and not the contrary way, are chiefly the causes that several plants which grow in Pensylvania cannot be found here.

This afternoon I went to see an island which lies in the middle of the river, about a mile below the town. This island is an English mile long, and not above a quarter of a mile broad. It is almost entirely turned into corn-fields; and is inhabited by a single planter, who, besides possessing this island, is the owner of two more. Here we saw no woods, except a few trees which were left round the island on the shore, and formed as it were a tall and great hedge. The Red Maple (Acer rubrum) grows in abundance in several places. Its leaves are white or silvery on the under sides, and, when agitated by the wind, they make the tree appear as if it was full of white flowers. The Water-beech (Platanus occidentalis) grows to a great height, and is one of the most shady trees here. The Water-poplar [69] is the most common tree hereabouts, grows exceedingly well on the shores of the river, and is as tall as the tallest of our asps. In summer it affords the best shade for men and cattle against the scorching heat. On the banks of rivers and lakes it is one of the most useful trees, because it holds the soil by its extensive branched roots, and prevents the water from washing it away. The Water-beech and the Elm-tree (Ulmus) serve the same purpose. The wild Prune-trees were plentiful here, and were full of unripe fruit. Its wood is not made use of; but its fruit is eaten. Sumach (Rhus glabra) is plentiful here; as also the wild vines, which climb up the trees, and creep along the high shores of the river. I was told, that the grapes ripen very late, though they were already pretty large.

The American Elm-tree (Ulmus Americana) formed several high hedges. The soil of this island is a rich mould, mixed with sand, which is chiefly employed in maize plantations. There were likewise large fields of potatoes. The whole island was leased for one hundred pounds of New York currency. The person who had taken the lease, again let some greater and some smaller lots of ground, to the inhabitants of Albany, for making kitchen-gardens of; and by that means reimbursed himself. Portulack (Portulaca oleracea) grows spontaneously here in great abundance, and looks very well.

June the 20th. The tide in the river Hudson goes about eight or ten English miles above Albany, and consequently runs one hundred and fifty-six English miles from the sea. In spring, when the snow melts, there is hardly any flowing near this town; for the great quantity of water which comes from the mountains during that season, occasions a continual ebbing. This likewise happens after heavy rains.

The cold is generally reckoned very severe here. The ice in the river Hudson is commonly three or four feet thick. On the 3d of April some of the inhabitants crossed the river with six pair of horses. The ice commonly dissolves about the end of March, or beginning of April. Great pieces of ice come down about that time, which sometimes carry with them the houses that stand close to the shore. The water is very high at that time in the river, because the ice stops sometimes, and sticks in places where the river is narrow. The water has been often observed to rise three fathom higher than it commonly is in summer. The ground is frozen here in winter to the depth of three, four, or five feet. On the 16th of November the yachts are put up, and about the beginning or middle of April they are in motion again. They are unacquainted with stoves; and their chimnies are so wide that one could drive through them with a cart and horses.