Chapter II

Lady Hester’s intended journey to Palmyra--Objections
to it--Hanah Fakhah--Difficulties of a journey to
Palmyra--Illness of Mr. B. on his road from Aleppo to
Damascus--The Author goes to his assistance--Osman
Aga--Masûd Aga--Village of Yabrûd--Author’s reception
by Osman Aga--Carahburgh--Character of Masûd
Aga--Use of Narkyly--Aspect of the Desert--Hamlet
of Hassiah--Dûrra bread--City of Hems--River
Orontes--City of Hamah--Mûsa Koblán--Visit from
him--Arrival of Mr. Barker and Mr. B.--Description of
Hamah--Clogs--Waterwheels--Coolness and heat produced by
the same means--Costume of the female peasants--Doors of
houses--Air--Panoramic prospect--Manufactures--Christians
of Hamah--Inundations--Messrs. B. and Barker go to
Bâalbec--Description of Hems--Pyramidal sepulchre--Tomb of
Khaled--Citadel--Lake of Hems--Orontes river--Cara--March
of troops--Yabrûd--Springs of Ras el ayn--Mâlûla--Grottoes
and Sarcophagi--Michael Rasáti--Account of M. Lascaris
and of Madame Lascaris--Nebk--Dress of M. Lascaris--His
character--Return of the Author to Damascus 31

CHAPTER III.

Precautions against riots--Emir Nasar visits Lady
Hester--He dissuades her from going to Palmyra with an
escort--Description of Nasar--How entertained--Lady
Hester quits Damascus--Reports of her wealth--She takes
Monsieur and Madame Lascaris with her--Her interview
with the Emir Mahannah--She arrives at Hamah--Departure
of Mr. B. and Mr. Barker from Damascus--The Messieurs
Bertrand dismissed--Bills of exchange--The Author sets out
for Hamah--Mode of travelling--A Caravansery--Gabriel,
the poet--Kosair--Kelyfy--Nebk--Turkish
adventurer--Khan of Nebk--Mode of washing in the
East--Carah--Hassiah--Hamah--The Author lodges with
Monsieur and Madame Lascaris--Opportunity for entering
the Desert--M. Lascaris resolves to accompany the
Author--Bedouin costume--First departure from Hamah 68

CHAPTER IV.

The author enters the Desert--Hostile tribes of
Bedouins--Beni Khaled Arabs--Their tents, manners,
&c.--Arabian hospitality--Tels or Conical mounds--Aspect
of the Desert--Want of Water--Hadidyn Arabs--Mountains
of Gebel el Abyad--Bedouin horsemen--Bedouin
encampment--Mahannah, the Emir--Bedouin repasts--Character
of Mahannah--Nature of his authority--His revenue--Means
used by the Bedouins to obtain gifts--March of a Bedouin
tribe--Contrivance for mounting camels--Gentleness of the
camel--Snow--Search for Water--Detention of the author by
Mahannah--He is suffered to depart for Palmyra--Encounter
with robbers--Plain of Mezah--Disappointment at the distant
sight of Palmyra--Arrival there 92