Chapter I: Introduction

Many are the acquisitions which geography has made since the boundaries of commerce have been extended, and the spirit of enterprise has carried our adventurous countrymen into countries which had never yet been indented by a European foot; and which, in the great map of the world, appeared as barren and uninhabitable places, destitute of all resources from which the traveller could derive a subsistence. It must, however, on the other hand, be admitted, that design has frequently had little to do in the discovery of those countries, however well it may have been conceived, and however great the perseverance may have been, which was exhibited in the pursuit. The discovery of America was, indeed, a splendid example of an enlightened conception, and an undaunted heroism, crowned with the most complete success; and the laudable and unabated ardour which this country, in despite of the most appalling obstacles, has persisted in solving the great geographical problem of the Course and Termination of the Niger, may be placed second in rank to the discovery of America.

As long as any fact is shut out from the knowledge of man, he who is in search of it will supply the deficiency by his own conclusions, which will be more or less removed from the object of his pursuit, according to the previous opinions which he may have formed, or to the credit which he may have placed on the reports of others. These remarks cannot be better illustrated, than in the case furnished by the Joliba, the Quorra, or Niger, the termination of which river was utterly unknown until Richard and John Lander, braving difficulties which would have broken any other hearts than theirs, succeeded in navigating the river until its conflux with the ocean. Since Park's first discovery of the Joliba, every point of the compass has been assumed for the ulterior course and termination of that river, and however wrong subsequent discovery has proved this speculative geography to have been, it is not to be regarded as useless. Theories may be far short of the truth, but while they display the ingenuity and reasoning powers of their authors, they tend to keep alive that spirit of inquiry and thirst for knowledge which terminates in discovery.

Various accounts of this river had been gradually collected from different sources, which afforded grounds for fresh theories respecting its termination. That of Reichard was the favourite, he supposing that it assumed a southwest course, and terminated in the gulph of Guinea. It was observed at the time, that there was neither evidence on which such an opinion could be supported, nor any by which it could be refuted. Discovery has proved him to be right in respect to its ultimate disposal; but at the same time, he participated in the general error regarding its course to Wangara. These different opinions appeared in several publications, in which, as might be expected, much error was mixed up with the general correctness. That the river flowed into the sea at Funda, was the principal and chief point that was gained; but the most extraordinary circumstance attending this discovery, was, that no one knew where Funda was. The only exception to these was the theory of Major Denham, supported by Sultan Bello's information, who continued its easterly course below Boossa, and ended it in Lake Tchad.

Such was the uncertain condition in which the course of the Niger remained, when the happy idea occurred of sending the Messrs. Landers to follow its course below Boossa. By this step the British government completed what it had begun, and accomplished in a few months the work of ages.

CONTENTS

CHAP. I. Herodutus. Early History of Africa. Interior of Africa. Malte Brun. Division of Africa. Early African Discoveries. Portuguese Discoveries. Madeira. Island of Arguin. Bemoy. Prester John. Death of Bemoy. Elmina. Ogane. John II. Lord of Guinea. Diego Cam. His return to Congo. Catholic Missionaries. Acts of the Missionaries. Magical Customs of the Natives. Expulsion of the Portuguese.

CHAP. II. Expeditions of the English. Thompson. First Expedition of Jobson. African Animals. Jobson's arrival at Tenda. Bukar Sano. Second Expedition of Jobson. The Horey. Expedition of Vermuyden. Expedition of Stibbs. Falls of Barraconda. Natives of Upper Gambia. Dangers from the Elephants and Sea Horses. Travels of Jannequin.

CHAP. III. African Association. Expedition of Ledyard. His Death. Expedition of Lucas. Major Houghton. His Death.

CHAP V. [*] Park's First Journey. Pisania. Dr. Laidley. Jindy. Mandingo Negroes. Kootacunda. Woolli. Konjour. Membo Jumbo. Tallika. Ganado. Kuorkarany. Fatteconda. Almami. Departure from Fatteconda. Joag. Robbery of Mr. Park by the Natives. Demba Sego. Gungadi. Tesee. Tigitty Sego. Anecdote of an African Wife. Kooniakary. Sambo Sego.

[Footnote: Chap. IV. was accidentally numbered Chap. V.]

CHAP. VI. King Semba. Sego Jalla. Salem Daucari. Route from Soolo to Feesurah. Kemmoo. Kaarta. Koorabarri. Funing Kedy. Ali, King of Ludamar. Sampaka. Arrival at the Camp of Ali. Conduct of the Moors. Robberies of Ali. Illness of Mr. Park. Curiosity of the African Ladies. Whirlwinds of the Desert. An African Wedding.

CHAP. VII. Sufferings of Mr. Park. Departure of Ali. Park's introduction to Fatima. Beauty of the Moorish Women. The Great Desert of Jarra. Demba Taken by the Moors. Jarra. Queira. Escape of Mr. Park. His perilous Situation. Shrilla. Wawra. Dingyee. Departure from Doolinkeaboo. First view of the Niger. Amiable conduct of a Bambara Woman. Mansong King of Sego. Sansanding. Park's encounter with a lion. Moorzan. Silla. Kea. Superstition of the Natives. Madiboo. Sibity. Sansanding. Conduct of Mansong. Yamina. Balaba. Taffara. Sominoo. Kollikorro. Saphie writing. Bambakoo. Kooma. Park robbed by the Foulahs. Reflections.

CHAP. VIII. Sibidooloo. The Mansa of Wonda. Mansia. Generous Conduct of a Karfa. A Negro School. Treatment of the Slaves. Close of the Rhamadam. Departure of the Coffle. The Jallonka Wilderness. Coffle attacked by Bees. Fate of Nealee. Koba. Jallonka Banditti. Malacotta. Magnanimous Conduct of Damel. Park's Arrival in England.

CHAP. IX. Frederic Horneman. Ummesogeir. Siwah. Conduct of the Siwahans. Mourzouk. Fezzan. Death of Horneman. Nicholls. His Death.

CHAP. X. Adams. Soudenny. Timbuctoo. King and Queen of Timbuctoo. La Mar Zarah. Natives of Timbuctoo. Their Customs. Their Religion. Female Physicians. Amusements at Timbuctoo. Capture of Slaves. Penal Code at Timbuctoo. Doubts respecting the Niger.

CHAP. XI. Adams' Departure from Timbuctoo. Tudenny. Distress in the Desert. Vied D'leim. Escape of Adams. Hilla Gibla. Adam's Amour with Isha. Adams sold as a Slave. Hieta Mouessa Ali. Recapture of Adams.

CHAP. XII. Wadinoon. Treatment of Slaves. Cruel Treatment of Adams. Murder of Dolbie. Characteristics of European Slaves. Ransom of Adams. Return of Adams to England. Justification of Adams.

CHAP. XIII. Sidi Hamet. Timbuctoo. Women of Timbuctoo. Dress of the Natives of Timbuctoo. Bimbinah. Wassanah. Reflections on National Character. Comparison between Adams and Sidi Hamet. Reflections on Timbuctoo. Close of Adams' Narrative.

CHAP. XIV. Population of West Barbary. The Errifi. The Shilluh. Anecdote of Shilluh. Character of the Arabs. The Moors. The Marabouts. Religion of the Africans.

CHAP. XV. Second Expedition of Park. His Departure. Attacks on Mr. Park. His disheartening Situation. Conduct of Mansong. Death of Mr. Anderson. Death of Mr. Park. Manuscripts of Park.

CHAP. XVI. Tuckey's Expedition. His Departure. Disasters of the Expedition. Death of Tuckey. Expedition of Captain Gray. Expedition of Major Laing.

CHAP. XVII. Expedition of Captain Lyon. Benioleed. Zemzem. Bonjem. Sockna. Hoon. Wadan. Journey to Mourzouk. Zeighan. Samnoo. Wad el Nimmel.

CHAP. XVIII. Mourzouk. Description of Mourzouk. Castle of Mourzouk. Construction of the Houses of Mourzouk. The Fighi. African Education. The Burying Places of Mourzouk. Dress of the Women. Filthy habits of the Natives. Their Dances. Dresses of the Sultan's Children. The Sultan's Son. Revenue of the Sultan of Fezzan. Personal Characteristics of the Natives. Moral Character of the Fezzaners. Music of the Fezzaners. Illness of Captain Lyon. His Distressing Situation. Treachery of Mukni. Death of Mr. Ritchie. Return of Captain Lyon.

CHAP. XIX. Expedition of Denham and Clapperton. Sockna. Sand Storm in the Desert. Mourzouk. Interview with the Sultan of Mourzouk. Boo Khaloom. Departure of Major Denham for Tripoli. Sails for England. Entrance into Sockna. Superstition of Boo Khaloom. Marriage at Sockna. Agutifa. Tingazeer. Zeghren. Omhal Henna. Illness of Clapperton and Oudney. Strength of the Expedition. Description of the Arabs.

CHAP. XX. Expedition to the Westward. Tuaricks. Kharaik. Gorma. Ancient Inscriptions. Oubari. Roman Buildings. Route over the Sand Hills. Wadey Shiati. Visit to the Town. Ghraat. Visit to the Sultan. Tuarick Woman.

CHAP. XXI. Departure from Mourzouk. Gabrone. Medroosa. Tegerhy. Natives of Tegerhy. Skeletons of Slaves. Major Denham and the Skeletons. Slaughter of the Camels. Anay Sultan Tibboo. Kisbee. Tiggema. Dirkee. Plundering Arabs. Bilma. Female Natives of Bilma. Boo Khaloom, and Captain Lyon's Book. Surgical Skill of the Arabs. Aghadem. Tibboo Couriers. Beere Kashitery. Negro Shampooing. Gunda Tibboos. Mina Tahr. Arab Plunderers. Kofei. Traita Tibboos. Huts of the Tarifas. Lake Tchad. Lari. Death of a Coluber. Nyagami. Tribe of Monkeys. Woodie. Dress of the Natives of Woodie. Buridha. Strength of Buridha. Min Ali Tahr, and the Royal Family of England.

CHAP. XXII. Approach to Kouka. Description of the Bornou Troops. Barca Gana. Sheik of Kouka. Presentation to the Sheik. Costume of the Women of Kanem and Bornou. Major Denham and a young Lion. The Court of Bornou. Kouka. Angornou. The Bornouese. Sports of the Bornouese. Expedition against the Kerdies. Mora, the Capital of Mandara. The Sultan of Mandara. Malem Chadily. Expedition against the Fellatas. Defeat of the Arabs. Death of Boo Khaloom. Perilous Situation of Major Denham. Song on Boo Khaloom. Old Birnie. Gambarou. Expedition against the Mungas.

CHAP. XXIII. Sultan of Loggun. The Loggunese. Mr. Tyrwhit. The Shouaa Arabs. Tahr, the Chief of the La Salas. The Beddoomahs. Katagum. Sansan. Death of Dr. Oudney. Market of Kano. Pugilism in Kano. Marriages and Funerals of the People of Kano. The Governor of Hadyja. Quana. Females of Quarra. Treatment of the Small Pox. A Fellata Fugitive.

CHAP. XXIV. The Wells of Kamoon. Arrival at Sockatoo. Sultan Bello. Abolition of the Slave Trade. Clapperton's Visit to Sultan Bello. Death of Mr. Park. Obstacles to the Journey to Youri. Books of Park. Final Abandonment of the Journey. Ateeko, the Brother of Bello. Purchase of Major Denham's Baggage. The Civet Cat. The Executioner of Sockatoo. Departure from Sockatoo. Account of Sockatoo. Trade of Sockatoo. Arrival in England.

CHAP. XXV. Lander's First Expedition with Clapperton. Sultan Bello's Letter. Widah. The Sugar Berry. Beasts of Prey. Animals of Dahomy. Religion of Dahomy. Its Government. Officers of the Court of Dahomy. Marriages at Dahomy. Carnival at Abomey. Sacrifice of Victims at Abomey. Anecdote of the King of Dahomy. Badagry. Introduction to the Chief of Eyeo. Saboo. Humba, Death of Captain Pearce. Dances at Jannah. Lander at an African Almacks. Duffoo. Erawa. Washoo. Koosoo. Akkibosa, Medical Treatment in Eyeo. Loko. Tshow. Entrance into Katunga. Theatrical Entertainments at Eyeo. Method of Salutation.

CHAP. XXVI. Situation of the City of Eyeo. Its Markets. Feasts of the Youribanies. Produce of Youriba. Etiquette at the Court of Katunga. African Antelopes. Sultan Yarro. Female Cavalry. Kiama. Sultan. Yarro's Daughter. Wawa. Its Productions and Natives. The Widow Zuma. Her Costume and Domestic Marriage to Clapperton. Character of the Inhabitants of Wawa. Departure from Wawa. Boussa. Inquiries respecting Park. Place of Park's Death. Expected Recovery of Park's Journal. Letter from the King of Youri. Conduct of the Widow Zuma. Her Dress and Escort. Mahommed El His Camp. Rejoicings at Koolfu. Its Trade. The Widow Laddie, Employment of time at Koolfu. Character of its People. Akinjie. Futika. Baebaejie.

CHAP. XXVII. Military Tactics of the Fellatas. Female Warrior of Zamfra. Proceedings of Bello. Letter of Sultan Bello. Death of Clapperton.

CHAP. XXVIII. Almena. Cannibals of Almena. Natives of Catica. The River Coodoma. Cuttup. The Sultan of Cuttup. Lander and the Wives of the Sultan. The River Rary. Dunrora. Lander taken back to Cuttup. Zaria. Crosses the Koodonia. Arrival at Badagry. Attempt on the Life of Lander by Poison. Ransomed by Captain Laing. Arrival in England.

CHAP. XXIX. African Discoveries. Expedition of Richard and John Lander. Instructions of Government. Departure from Portsmouth. Badagry. Visit to King Adooley. His Conduct. Traits of Lander's Character. Visit of the King's Eldest Son. Intrigues of the Mulattoes. Division of Badagry. Visit to the King of Portuguese Town. Customs of the Natives.

CHAP. XXX. Evasive Conduct of Adooley. Visit to Adooley. Visit from the Chief of Spanish Town. Rapacity of Adooley. Visit of General Poser's Headman. Religious Rites of the Mahommedans. Sports of the Natives. The Houssa Mallams. Surgical Skill of Richard Lander. Articles demanded by Adooley. Female of Jenna. Character of Adooley. His Filial Affection. Battle between the Lagos and Badagrians. Trial by the Cap.

CHAP. XXXI. Departure from Badagry. Progress up the River. Arrival at Wow Regulations of the Fetish at Wow. The Village of Sagba. Passage of a Swamp. Basha. Soato. Arrival at Bidjie. Bad Faith of Adooley. Introduction to the Chief of Bidjie. Departure from Bidjie Arrival of a Messenger from Jenna. Laatoo. Larro. The Chief of Larro. Customs at Larro. Departure from Larro. Introduction at the Court of Jenna. The Governor of Jenna. Pascoe and his Wife. Musicians of Jenna. The Badagry Guides. African Wars. Women of Jenna. Fate of the Governor's Wives. Conduct of the Widow. Abominable Customs at Jenna. Mourning of the Women. An African Tornado. Departure from Jenna. Arrival and Departure from Bidjie. The Chief of Chow. Departure from Chow. Egga. Arrival at Jadoo. Natives of Jadoo. Affection of the African Mothers. Engua. Afoora. Assinara. Arrival at Chouchou. Tudibu. Eco. Dufo. Chaadoo. Arrival at Row. Chekki. Coosoo. The Butter Tree. Departure from Coosoo. Arrival at Acboro. Lazipa. Cootoo. Bohoo. Visit to the Head Minister. Mallo. Jaguta. Shea. Esalay. Desertion of Esalay. Atoopa. Leoguadda. Eetcho. Market at Eetcho. Eetcholee. Arrival at Katunga.

CHAP. XXXII. Visit to Mansolah. Customs of the Court of Katunga. Mansolah's Visit to the Landers. Intended Route of the Landers. The Master of the Horse. Decay of Katunga. The Markets of Katunga. Visit from Ebo. Intrigues of the Wives of Ebo. Visit of Houssa Mallams. Presents to the Head Men. Their Affluence. Site of Katunga. Character of the Natives. Political Constitution of Alorie. Exhibition of the Presents. Projected Departure from Katunga. Wives of Mansolah. Last Interview with Mansolah.

CHAP. XXXIII. Departure from Katunga. Revolt of the Carriers. Arrival at Rumbum. Acra. Visit of the Natives. The Governor of Keeshee. Visit of the Mallams. Singular Application of an Acba Woman. Departure from Acba. Return of the Badagry Guides. African Banditti. Village of Moussa. Progress to Kiama. Meeting of the Kiama Escort. Arrival at Benikenny. Kiama.

CHAP XXXIV. Presents to the King of Kiama. Visit to the King. Parentage of the Widow Zuma. Visit from the Mahommedan Mallams. Their Honesty. The Bebun Salah. Religious Ceremonies of the Mahommedans. Anniversary of the Bebun Salah. Races at Kiama. Approach of the King. His Dress. The King's Children.

CHAP. XXXV. Kakafungi. Illness of John Lander. Distressing Situation of the Landers. Departure from Coobley. The Midiki, or Queen of Boussa. Mr. Park's Effects. Disappointment respecting Mr. Park's Papers. Kagogie. Arrival at Yaoorie. Deceitful conduct of the Sultan. Description of Yaoorie. Message to the King of Boussa. Departure from Yaoorie. Letter from the Sultan of Yaoorie.

CHAP. XXXVI. Arrival at Guada. Adventure with a Crocodile. Subterraneous Course of the Niger. The King Consults the Niger. Arrival at Wowow. Interview with the King. Negotiation for a Canoe. The King and the Salt Cellar. Arrival of the Canoe from Wowow. Preparations for Departure. Departure from Boossa. Arrival at Patashie. Message from the King of Wowow. Visit to the King of Wowow. Return to Patashie. Arrival at Lever. Conduct of Ducoo. Canoes demanded by the Chief of Teah. Treacherous Conduct of the Chief. Departure from Patashie. Bajiebo. Interview with the Chief of Leechee. Majie. Belee. The King of the Park Water. Interview with the Water King. Progress down the Niger. Zagozhi. Messengers arrive from Rabba.

CHAP. XXXVII. Visit of the two Arabs. Message from Mallam Dendo. Present of Mr. Park's Tobe to the Prince of Rabba. Perfidy of the King of Nouflie. Departure from Zagozhi. Noble Speech of the Prince of Rabba. Construction of the Canoes. Last Audience of the King of the Dark Water.

CHAP. XXXVIII. Danger from the Hippopotami. Dacannie. Gungo. Arrival at Egga. Annoyances at Egga. Departure from Egga. Arrival at Kacunda. Visit from the Chief's Brother. Departure from Kacunda. Alarm of the Natives. Hostile motions of the Natives. Explanation of the Chief. Information obtained from the Funda Mallam. Detention at Damaggoo. First signs of European intercourse. Departure from Damaggoo. Arrival at Kirree. Attacked by the Natives. The Landers taken to Kirree. Loss of their Property. Holding of a Palaver. The Kirree people.

CHAP. XXXIX. Departure from Kirree. Superstition of the Eboes. Arrival at an Eboe Town. Visit to the King of Eboe. First interview with Obie. The Palaver. King Boy. Character of the Kings of Africa. Decision of Obie. Embarrassments of the Landers. Conduct of the Eboe people. Revels of the Natives. The little fat female Visitor. Her Intoxication.

CHAP. XL. Exorbitant demand of King Boy. Visit of King Obie. Arrangement made with King Boy. Preparation for Departure. Hostile disposition of the Natives. Description of Adizzetta. Etiquette of King Boy. Offering to the Fetish. Progress down the River. Uncomfortable situation of the Landers. Introduction to Forday. Progress to Brass Town. Procession down the River. Superstitious Practices of the Natives. Description of Brass, Residence of the Landers at Brass. Traffic of the Natives.

CHAP. XLI. Richard Lander proceeds to the English Brig. Arrival in the second Brass River. Reception on board the Brig. Scandalous conduct of Captain Lake. Disappointment of King Boy. Captain Lake and the Pilot. Unfeeling behaviour of Lake. Richard Lander's anxiety about his Brother. Return of John Lander. John Lander's stay at Brass Town. His Narrative.

CHAP. XLII. Proceedings on board the Brig. Presents to King Boy. Perfidy of the Pilot. Hostile Motions of the Natives. Brig. Providential Escape. Nautical Instructions. Release of Mr. Spittle. Perilous Situation of the Passage to Fernando Po. Fernando Po. Colonization of Fernando Po. Traffic with the Natives. Localities of Fernando Po. The Kroomen. Natives of Fernando Po. Costume of the Natives. Their Thieving Propensities. Punishment of the Thieves. Resources of the Island. Method of obtaining Palm Wine. Island of Anna Bon. Injurious Effects of the Climate. Prospective Commercial Advantages. Voyage to the Calebar River. Geographical and Nautical Directions. The Tornadoes. Superstitious Custom of the Natives. Duke Ephraim. Visit to Duke Ephraim. The Priests of Duke Town. Mourning amongst the Natives. Attack of an Alligator. The Thomas taken by a Pirate. Departure from Fernando Po. Death of the Kroomen. Arrival in England. Advantages of the Expedition. Investigation of the Niger. Course of the Niger. Ptolemy's Hypothesis of the Niger. Sources of the African Rivers. Benefit of Lander's Expedition.

CHAP. XLIII. Richard Lander's Third Expedition. Fitting out of the Expedition. Vessels Employed in the Expedition. Sailing of the Expedition. Arrival in the River Nun. Attack of the Natives. Impolitic Conduct of Lander. Return of Richard Lander to Fernando Po. Return of Lander to Attah. Reconciliation of the Damaggoo Chiefs. Abolition of the Sacrifices of Human Beings. Rabba. Ascent of the River Tchadda. Prophecy of King Jacket. Lander wounded by the Natives. Approaching Death of Lander. Death of Richard Lander. Infamous Conduct of Liverpool Merchants. Causes of the Attack. Meeting of the Inhabitants of Truro.

THE TRAVELS OF RICHARD LANDER, INTO THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA.