Chapter I: Part 1

Travels Through the States of North America,
and the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada,
During the Years 1795, 1796, and 1797, Vol. II.

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_TRAVELS_

THROUGH THE STATES

OF

_NORTH AMERICA_,

AND THE

PROVINCES OF

UPPER AND LOWER CANADA,

DURING

THE YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797.

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BY _ISAAC WELD_, JUNIOR.

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SECOND EDITION.

ILLUSTRATED AND EMBELLISHED WITH SIXTEEN PLATES.

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_IN TWO VOLUMES_.

_VOL. II_

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_LONDON_:

PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY.

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1799.

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_CONTENTS_

To _ VOLUME _ II.

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_LETTER _ XXVIII.

_Leave Quebec.—Convenience of travelling page 1
between that City and Montreal.—Post
Houses.—Calashes.—Drivers.—Canadian
Horses very serviceable.—Salutations
on arriving at different Post
Houses.—Beautiful Prospects from the
Road on the Top of the Banks of the
St. Lawrence.—Female Peasants.—Style
of Farming in Canada.—Considerably
improved of late.—Inactivity of
Canadians in not clearing more
Land.—Their Character contrasted with
that of the People of the
States.—Arrival at Trois
Rivieres.—Description of that Town and
its Vicinity.—Visit to the Convent of
St. Ursule.—Manufactures of Birch
Bark.—Birch Canoes, how formed.—Leave
Trois Rivieres, and reach Montreal._

_LETTER _ XXIX.

_The Party make the usual Preparations page 19
for ascending the St.
Lawrence.—Buffalo Skins.—How used by
Travellers.—Difficulty of proceeding
to Lake Ontario otherwise than by
Water.—Rapids above Montreal.— Village
of La Chine.—King’s Stores
there.—Indian Village on the opposite
Side of the River.—Similitude between
French Canadians and Indians in Person
and Disposition of Mind.—Owing to this
the Power of the French over the
Indians.—Summary View of the Indians
in Lower Canada.—The Party embark in a
Bateau at La Chine.—Mode of conducting
Bateaux against a strong
Current.—Great Exertion
requisite—Canadians addicted to
smoking.—How they measure
Distances.—Description of Lake St.
Louis.—Clouds of Insects over Reed
Banks.—Party encamps on l’Isle
Perot.—Passage of Rapids called Les
Cascades—Their tremendous
Appearance.—Description of the Village
of the Hill of Cedars.—Rapids du
Coteau du Lac.—Wonderful Rapidity of
the Current.—Party encamps.—Lake St.
Francis.—Point au Baudet.—L’Isle aux
Raisins.—Island in the River still the
Property of the Indians.—Not
determined yet whether in the British
Territory or that of the States.—Party
encamps.—Storm.—Unpleasant Situation
of the Party.—Relieved.—Continue the
Voyage.—Account of more Rapids.—Canals
and Locks at different Places on the
River St. Lawrence.—Immense Flights of
Pigeons.—Emigration of Squirrels and
Bears.—Oswegatchee River and Fort la
Galette described.—Advantageous
Position of the latter.—Current above
this gentle.—Bateaux sail on all
Night.—Songs of the Canadians.—Good
Ear for Music.—Lake of a Thousand
Isles.—Arrival at Kingston on Lake
Ontario.—Observations on the
Navigation of the St. Lawrence.—The
St. Lawrence compared with the
Mississippi.—A View of the different
Rivers which open a Water
Communication between the Great Lakes
and the Atlantic.—Great Superiority of
the St. Lawrence over all the rest.—Of
the Lake Trade._

_LETTER _ XXX.

_Description of the Town of page 64
Kingston.—Formerly called Fort
Cadaraqua.—Extensive Trade carried on
here.—Nature of it.—Inhabitants very
hospitable.—Harbours on Lake
Ontario.—Ships of War on that
Lake.—Merchant Vessels.—Naval
Officers.—Expence of building and
keeping up Vessels very great.—Why.—No
Iron Mines yet opened in the
Country.—Copper may be more easily
procured than Iron.—Found in great
Quantities on the Borders of Lake
Superior.—Embark in a Trading Vessel
on Lake Ontario.—Description of that
Lake.—A Septennial Change in the
Height of the Waters said to be
observable—also a Tide that ebbs and
flows every two Hours.—Observations on
these Phenomena.—Voyage across the
Lake similar to a Sea Voyage.—Come in
Sight of Niagara Fort.—Land at
Mississaguis Point.—Mississaguis
Indians.—One of their Chiefs killed,
in an Affray.—How treated by the
British Government.—Their revengeful
Disposition.—Mississaguis good
Hunters.—How they kill Salmon.—Variety
of Fish in the Lakes and Rivers of
Canada.—Sea Wolves.—Sea
Cows.—Description of the Town of
Niagara or Newark.—The present Seat of
Government.—Scheme of removing it
elsewhere.—Unhealthiness of the Town
of Niagara and adjacent Country.—Navy
Hall.—Fort of Niagara surrendered
pursuant to Treaty.—Description of
it.—Description of the other Forts
surrendered to the People of the
United States.—Shewn not to be so
advantageous to them as was
expected.—Superior Position of the new
British Posts pointed out_

_LETTER _ XXXI.

_Description of the River and Falls of page 108
Niagara and the Country bordering upon
the navigable Part of the River below
the Falls_

_LETTER _ XXXII.

_Description of Fort Chippeway.—Plan in page 135
meditation to cut a Canal to avoid the
Portage at the Falls of
Niagara.—Departure from
Chippeway.—Intense Heat of the
Weather.—Description of the Country
bordering on Niagara River above the
Falls.—Observations on the Climate of
Upper Canada.—Rattlesnakes common in
Upper Canada.—Fort Erie.—Miserable
Accommodation there.—Squirrel
hunting.—Seneka Indians.—Their
Expertness at the Use of the
Blow-gun.—Description of the
Blow-gun.—Excursion to the Village of
the Senekas.—Whole Nation
absent.—Passage of a dangerous Sand
Bar at the Mouth of Buffalo
Creek.—Sail from Fort Erie.—Driven
back by a Storm.—Anchor under Point
Abineau.—Description of the
Point.—Curious Sand Hills there.—Bear
hunting.—How carried on.—Dogs, what
Sort of, used.—Wind changes.—The
Vessel suffers from the Storm whilst
at Anchor.—Departure from Point
Abineau.—General Description of Lake
Erie.—Anecdote.—Reach the Islands at
the Western End of the Lake.—Anchor
there.—Description of the
Islands.—Serpents of various Kinds
found there.—Rattlesnakes.—Medicinal
Uses made of them.—Fabulous Accounts
of Serpents.—Departure from the
Islands.—Arrival at Malden.—Detroit
River_

_LETTER _ XXXIII.

_Description of the District of page 170
Malden.—Establishment of a new British
Post there.—Island of Bois
Blanc.—Difference between the British
and Americans respecting the Right of
Possession.—Block Houses, how
constructed.—Captain E—’s
Farm.—Indians.—Description of Detroit
River, and the Country bordering upon
it.—Town of Detroit.—Head Quarters of
the American Army.—Officers of the
Western Army.—Unsuccessful Attempt of
the Americans to impress upon the
Minds of the Indians an Idea of their
Consequence.—Of the Country round
Detroit.—Doubts concerning our Route
back to Philadelphia.—Determine to go
by Presqu’ Isle.—Departure from
Detroit_

_LETTER _ XXXIV.

_Presents delivered to the Indians on page 192
the Part of the British
Government.—Mode of distributing
them.—Reasons why given.—What is the
best Method of conciliating the good
Will of the Indians.—Little Pains
taken by the Americans to keep up a
good Understanding with the
Indians.—Consequences thereof.—War
between the Americans and Indians.—A
brief Account of it.—Peace concluded
by General Wayne.—Not likely to remain
permanent.—Why.—Indian Manner of
making Peace described_

_LETTER _ XXXV.

_A brief Account of the Persons, page 224
Manners, Character, Qualifications,
mental and corporeal, of the Indians;
interspersed with Anecdotes_

_LETTER _ XXXVI.

_Departure from Malden.—Storm on Lake page 296
Erie.—Driven back amongst the
Islands.—Shipwreck narrowly
avoided.—Voyage across the Lake.—Land
at Fort Erie.—Proceed to Buffalo
Creek.—Engage Indians to go through
the Woods.—Set out on Foot.—Journey
through the Woods.—Description of the
Country beyond Buffalo Creek.—Vast
Plains.—Grand Appearance of the Trees
here.—Indian Dogs.—Arrival at the
Settlements on Genesee River.—First
Settlers.—Their general
Character.—Description of the Country
bordering on Genesee River.—Fevers
common in Autumn.—Proceed on Foot to
Bath_

_LETTER _ XXXVII.

_Account of Bath.—Of the page 332
Neighbourhood.—Singular Method taken
to improve
it.—Speculators.—Description of one,
in a Letter from an American
Farmer.—Conhorton Creek.—View of the
Navigation from Bath downwards.—Leave
Bath for Newtown.—Embark in
Canoes.—Stranded in the Night.—Seek
for Shelter in a neighbouring
House.—Difficulty of procuring
Provisions.—Resume our
Voyage.—Lochartsburgh.—Description of
the eastern Branch of the Susquehannah
River.—French Town.—French and
Americans ill suited to each
other.—Wilkes-barré.—Mountains in the
Neighbourhood.—Country thinly settled
towards Philadelphia.—Description of
the Wind-Gap in the Blue
Mountains.—Summary Account of the
Moravian Settlement at
Bethlehem.—Return to Philadelphia_

_LETTER _ XXXVIII.

_Leave Philadelphia.—Arrive at New page 367
York.—Visit Long Island.—Dreadful
Havoc by the Yellow Fever.—Dutch
Inhabitants suspicious of
Strangers.—Excellent Farmers.—Number
of Inhabitants.—Culture of
Corn.—Immense Quantities of Grouse and
Deer.—Laws to protect them.—Increase
of the same.—Decrease of Beavers.—New
York agreeable to
Strangers.—Conclusion_

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_TRAVELS_, &c.
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_LETTER _ XXVIII.

_Leave Quebec.—Convenience of travelling between that City and
Montreal.—Post Houses.—Calashes.—Drivers.—Canadian Horses very
serviceable.—Salutations on arriving at different Post
Houses.—Beautiful Prospects from the Road on the top of the Banks of
the St. Lawrence.—Female Peasants.—Style of Farming in
Canada.—Considerably improved of late.—Inactivity of Canadians in not
clearing more Land.—Their Character contrasted with that of the People
of the States.—Arrival at Trois Rivieres.—Description of that town and
its Vicinity.—Visit to the Convent of St. Ursule.—Manufactures of
Birch Bark.—Birch Canoes, how formed.—Leave Trois Rivieres, and reach
Montreal._

Montreal, August.

HAVING remained in Quebec and the neighbourhood as long as we could, consistently with the plan which we had formed of visiting the Falls of Niagara, and returning again into the States before the commencement of winter, we set out for Montreal by land.

In no part of North America can a traveller proceed so commodiously as along this road between Quebec and Montreal; a regular line of post houses, at convenient distances from each other, being established upon it, where calashes or carioles, according to the season, are always kept in readiness. Each postmaster is obliged to have four calashes, and the same number of carioles; and besides these, as many more are generally kept at each stage by persons called aids-de-poste, for which the postmaster calls when his own happen to be engaged. The postmaster has the exclusive privilege of furnishing these carriages at every stage, and, under a penalty, he must have them ready in a quarter of an hour after they are demanded by a traveller, if it be day-light, and in half an hour should it be in the night. The drivers are bound to take you on at the rate of two leagues an hour. The charge for a calash with a single horse is one shilling Halifax[1] currency per league; no gratuity is expected by the driver.

Footnote 1:

According to Halifax currency, which is the established, currency of
Lower Canada, the dollar passes for five shillings.

The silver coins current in Canada are dollars, halves, quarters,
eighths, and sixteenths of dollars, pistareens, Spanish coins somewhat
less valuable than quarter dollars, and French and English crowns and
half crowns. Gold coins pass only as bullion by weight. British and
Portugal gold coins are deemed the best; next to them those of Spain,
then those of France.

[Sidenote: CANADIAN HORSES.]

The post calashes are very clumsily built, but upon the whole we found them easy and agreeable carriages; they are certainly far superior to the American stage waggons, in which, if persons wish to travel with comfort, they ought always to set out provided with cushions for their hips and elbows, otherwise they cannot expect but to receive numberless contusions before they get to the end of their journey.

The horses in Canada are mostly small and heavy, but extremely serviceable, as is evident from those employed for the post carriages being in general fat and very brisk on the road, notwithstanding the poor fare and ill usage they receive. They are seldom rubbed down; but as soon as they have performed their journey are turned into a field, and there left until the next traveller arrives, or till they are wanted to perform the work of the farm. This is contrary to the regulations of the post, according to which the horses should be kept in the stable, in perfect readiness for travellers; however, I do not recollect that we were at any place detained much beyond the quarter of an hour prescribed, notwithstanding that the people had frequently to send for their horses, more than a mile, to the fields where they were employed. When the horses happened to be at a distance, they were always brought home in a full gallop, in order to avoid complaints; they were yoked in an instant, and the driver set off at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour; a little money, indeed, generally induces them to exceed the established rate; this, however, does not always answer, but play upon their vanity and you may make them go on at what rate you please, for they are the vainest people, perhaps, in the world. Commend their great dexterity in driving, and the excellence of the Canadian horses, and it seldom fails to quicken your pace at least two or three miles an hour; but if you wish to go in a gallop, you need only observe to your companion, so as to be overheard by the driver, that the Canadian calashes are the vilest carriages on earth, and so heavy that you believe the people are afraid the horses would fall down and break their necks if they attempted to make them go as fast as in other countries; above all, praise the carriages and drivers of the United States. A few remarks of this sort at once discompose the tempers of the drivers, and their passion is constantly vented in lashes on their horses.

[Sidenote: CANADIAN DRIVERS]

To hasten the speed of their horses they have three expressions, rising above each other in a regular climax. The first, “Marche,” is pronounced in the usual tone of voice; “Marche-donc,” the second, is pronounced more hastily and louder; if the horse is dull enough not to comprehend this, then the “Marche-donc,” accompanied with one of Sterne’s magical words, comes out, in the third place, in a shrill piercing key, and a smart lash of the whip follows. From the frequent use made by the drivers of these words, the calashes have received the nick-name of “marche-doncs.”

The first post house is nine miles from Quebec, which our drivers, of their own accord, managed to reach in one hour. No sooner were we in sight of it, than the postmaster, his wife in her close French cap, and all the family, came running out to receive us. The foremost driver, a thin fellow of about six feet high, with a queue bound with eel skins that reached the whole way down his back, immediately cracked his whip, and having brought his calash to the door, with a great air he leapt out, bowed respectfully at a distance to the hostess, then advancing with his hat off, paid her a few compliments, and kissed both her cheeks in turn, which she presented to him with no small condescension. Some minutes are generally spent thus at every post house in mutual congratulations on meeting, before the people ever think of getting a fresh carriage ready.

The road between Quebec and Montreal runs, for the most part, close upon the banks of the River St. Lawrence, through those beautiful little towns and villages seen to so much advantage from the water; and as the traveller passes along, he is entertained with prospects, if possible, superior to those which strike the attention in sailing down the river.

For the first thirty or forty miles in the way from Quebec, the views are in particular extremely grand. The immense River St. Lawrence, more like a lake confined between ranges of mountains than a river, appears at one side rolling under your feet, and as you look down upon it from the top of the lofty banks, the largest merchant vessels scarcely seem bigger than fishing boats; on the other side, deep mountains, skirted with forests, present themselves to the view at a distance, whilst, in the intermediate space, is seen a rich country, beautifully diversified with whitened cottages and glittering spires, with groves of trees and cultivated fields, watered by innumerable little streams: groups of the peasantry, busied as we passed along in getting in the harvest, which was not quite over, diffused an air of cheerfulness and gaiety over the scene, and heightened all its charms.

[Sidenote: FEMALE PEASANTS.]

The female French peasants are in general, whilst young, very pretty, and the neat simplicity of their dress in summer, which consists mostly of a blue or scarlet bodice without sleeves, a petticoat of a different colour, and a straw hat, makes them appear extremely interesting; like the Indians, however, they lose their beauty very prematurely, and it is to be attributed much to the same cause, namely, their laborious life, and being so much exposed to the air, the indolent men suffering them to take a very active part in the management of the farms.

The style of farming amongst the generality of the French Canadians has hitherto been very slovenly; manure has been but rarely used; the earth just lightly turned up with a plough, and without any other preparation the grain sown; more than one half of the fields also have been left without any fences whatsoever, exposed to the ravages of cattle. The people are beginning now, however, to be more industrious, and better farmers, owing to the increased demand for grain for exportation, and to the advice and encouragement given to them by the English merchants at Quebec and Montreal, who send agents through the country to the farmers to buy up all the corn they can spare. The farmers are bound to have their corn ready by a certain day on the banks of the St. Lawrence, and bateaux are then sent by the merchants to receive and convey it to the port where it is to be shipped.

[Sidenote: CHARACTERS.]

All the settlements in Lower Canada lie contiguous to the River St. Lawrence: in no place perhaps do they extend farther back than twelve miles from it, except along the banks of the River St. Jean, the River des Prairies, and some other navigable streams falling into the St. Lawrence. This is owing to the disposition of the French Canadians, who, like the Germans, are fond of living near each other; nay more, as long as the farm of the father will admit of a division, a share of it is given to the sons when they are grown up, and it is only when the farm is exceedingly small, or the family numerous, that they ever think of taking up a piece of fresh land from the seignior. In this respect a wonderful difference appears between their conduct and that of the young people of the United States, particularly of those of New England, who, as soon as they are grown up, immediately emigrate, and bury themselves in the woods, where, perhaps, they are five or six hundred miles distant from every relation upon earth: yet a spirit of enterprize is not wanting amongst the Canadians; they eagerly come forward, when called upon, to traverse the immense lakes in the western regions; they laugh at the dreadful storms on those prodigious bodies of water; they work with indefatigable perseverance at the oar and the pole in stemming the rapid currents of the rivers; nor do they complain, when, on these expeditions, they happen to be exposed to the inclemency of the seasons, or to the severest pangs of hunger. The spirit of the Canadian is excited by vanity; he delights in talking to his friends and relatives of the excursions he has made to those distant regions; and he glories in the perils which he has encountered: his vanity would not be gratified by chopping down trees and tilling the earth; he deems this therefore merely a secondary pursuit, and he sets about it with reluctance: self interest, on the contrary, it is that rouses the citizen of the states into action, and accordingly he hastily emigrates to a distant part of the country, where he thinks land is in the most rising state, and where he hopes to be able the soonest to gratify a passion to which he would readily make a sacrifice of every social tie, and of all that another man would hold dear.

On the second day of our journey from Quebec to Montreal we reached Trois Rivieres, lying nearly midway between the two places. This town is situated on the banks of the St. Lawrence, close to the mouth of the River St. Maurice, the largest of upwards of thirty that fall into the St. Lawrence, on the north-west side alone, between Quebec and Montreal. This river, before it unites with the St. Lawrence, is divided into three streams by two large islands, so that to a person sailing past its mouth it appears as if three distinct rivers disembogued at the one spot; from hence it is that the town of Trois Rivieres receives its name.

The St. Maurice is not navigable for large vessels, neither is it for sloops more than a few miles above its mouth. In bateaus and canoes, however, it may be ascended nearly to its source; from whence, if credit is to be given to the accounts of the Indians, the distance is not very great to the head of navigable rivers that fall into Hudson’s Bay; at a future day, therefore, if ever the dreary and inhospitable waste through which it passes shall put on a different aspect from what it now wears, and become the abode of human beings instead of wild beasts, the St. Maurice may be esteemed a river of the first importance in a commercial point of view; at present there are a few scattered settlements on each side of it, from its mouth as far as the iron works, which are about nine miles distant from Trois Rivieres; beyond that the country is but little known except to Indians.

[Sidenote: TROIS RIVIERES.]

Trois Rivieres contains about two hundred and fifty or three hundred houses, and ranks as the third town, in point of size, in the provinces. It is one of the oldest settlements in the country, and its founder, it is said, calculated upon its becoming in a short time a city of great extent. It has hitherto, however, increased but very slowly in size, and there is no reason to imagine that it will increase more rapidly in future, at least until the country bordering upon the St. Maurice becomes settled, a period that may be very distant. The bank of iron ore in the neighbourhood, by the manufacture of which it was expected that the town would suddenly become opulent, is now nearly exhausted; nor do we find that this bank has ever furnished more ore than was sufficient to keep one small forge and one small foundry employed at intervals. The fur trade also, from which so much benefit was expected, is now almost wholly centered at Quebec and Montreal; it is merely the small quantity of furs brought down the St. Maurice, and some of the northern rivers that fall into the St. Lawrence, nearer to the town of Trois Rivieres than to Quebec or Montreal, that is shipped there. These furs are laden on board the Montreal ships, which stop opposite to the town as they go down the river.

The country in the vicinity of Trois Rivieres has been represented by some French travellers as wonderfully fertile, and as one of the most agreeable parts of Canada; but it is totally the reverse. It is a level barren tract, and so sandy, that in walking along many of the streets of the town, and the roads in the neighbourhood, you sink into the sand at every step above the ankles. The sand is of a whitish colour, and very loose. The air also swarms with musquitoes, a certain proof of the low damp situation of the place. In none of the other inhabited parts of Canada, except in the neighbourhood of Lake St. Charles, were we ever annoyed with these troublesome insects. In Quebec, indeed, and Montreal, they are scarcely ever seen.

The streets in Trois Rivieres are narrow, and the houses in general small and indifferent; many of them are built of wood. There are two churches in the town, the one an English episcopalian, the other a large Roman catholic parish church, formerly served by the Recollets, or Franciscan friars, but the order is now extinct in Trois Rivieres. The old monastery of the order, a large stone building, at present lies quite deserted; and many of the houses in the neighbourhood being also uninhabited, that part of the town wherein it is situated has a very dull gloomy aspect. The college or monastery of the Jesuits, also a large old building of stone in the same neighbourhood, has been converted into a gaol.

[Sidenote: ST. URSULE.]

The only religious order at present existing in the town is that of St. Ursule, the sisterhood of which is as numerous as the convent will well permit. It was founded by M. de St. Vallier, bishop of Quebec, in the year 1677. It is a spacious building, situated near that formerly belonging to the Recollets; and annexed to it, under the same roof, there is an hospital attended by the nuns. We were introduced to the chaplain of the order, a poor French emigrant curé, an interesting and apparently a most amiable man, and under his guidance we received permission to visit the convent.

The first part we entered was the chapel, the doors of which open to the street under a porch. It is very lofty, but the area of it is small. The altar, which is grand, and richly ornamented, stands nearly opposite to the entrance, and on each side of it is a lattice, the one communicating with an apartment allotted for sick nuns, the other with the cœur of the chapel. On ringing a small bell, a curtain at the inside of this last lattice was withdrawn, and an apartment discovered, somewhat larger than the chapel, surrounded with pews, and furnished with an altar, at the foot of which sat two of the sisterhood, with books in their hands, at their meditations. The fair Ursuline, who came to the lattice, seemed to be one of those unfortunate females that had at last begun to feel all the horrors of confinement, and to lament the rashness of that vow which had secluded her for ever from the world, and from the participation of those innocent pleasures, which, for the best and wisest of purposes, the beneficent Ruler of the universe meant that his creatures should enjoy. As she withdrew the curtain, she cast a momentary glance through the grating, that imparted more than could be expressed by the most eloquent words; then retiring in silence, seated herself on a bench in a distant part of the cœur. The melancholy and sorrow pourtrayed in the features of her lovely countenance interested the heart in her behalf, and it was impossible to behold her without partaking of that dejection which hung over her soul, and without deprecating at the same time the cruelty of the custom which allows, and the mistaken zeal of a religion that encourages, an artless and inexperienced young creature to renounce a world, of which she was destined, perhaps, to be a happy and useful member, for an unprofitable life of solitude, and unremitted penance for sins never committed!

[Sidenote: URSULINES.]

The hospital, which lies contiguous to the chapel, consists of two large apartments, wherein are about twelve or fourteen beds. The apartments are airy, and the beds neat and well appointed. Each bed is dedicated to a particular saint, and over the foot of it is an invocation to the tutelary saint, in large characters, as, “St. Jaques priez pour moi.” “St. Jean priez pour moi,” &c. The patients are attended by a certain number of the sisterhood appointed for that purpose. An old priest, who appeared to be near his death, was the only person in the hospital when we passed through it; he was seated in an easy chair by the bed-side, and surrounded by a number of the sisters, who paid him the most assiduous attention.

The dress of the Ursulines consists of a black stuff gown; a handkerchief of white linen tied by a running string close round the throat, and hanging down over the breast and shoulders, being rounded at the corners; a head-piece of white linen, which covers half the forehead, the temples, and ears, and is fastened to the handkerchief; a black gauze veil, which conceals half the face only when down, and flows loosely over the shoulders; and a large plain silver cross suspended from the breast. The dress is very unbecoming, the hair being totally concealed, and the shape of the face completely disguised by the close white head-piece.

From the hospital we were conduced through a long passage to an agreeable light parlour, the windows of which opened into the gardens of the convent. This was the apartment of the “Superieure,” who soon made her appearance, accompanied by a number of the lay sisters. The conversation of the old lady and her protegées was lively and agreeable; a thousand questions were asked us respecting the former part of our tour, and our future destination; and they seemed by no means displeased at having a few strangers of a different sex from their own within the walls of the convent. Many apologies were made, because they could not take us through the “interieure,” as there was an ordinance against admitting any visiters into it without leave from the bishop; they regretted exceedingly that we had not obtained this leave before we left Quebec. After some time was spent in conversation, a great variety of fancy works, the fabrication of the sisterhood, was brought down for our inspection, some of which it is always expected that strangers will purchase, for the order is but poor. We selected a few of the articles which appeared most curious, and having received them packed up in the neatest manner in little boxes kept for the purpose, and promised to preserve them in memory of the fair Ursulines, that handed them to us, we bade adieu to the superieure, and returned to our lodgings.

[Sidenote: BARK CANOES.]

It is for their very curious bark work that the sisters of this convent are particularly distinguished. The bark of the birch tree is what they use, and with it they make pocket-books, work-baskets, dressing-boxes, &c. &c. which they embroider with elk hair died of the most brilliant colours. They also make models of the Indian canoes, and various warlike implements used by the Indians.

Nearly all the birch bark canoes in use on the St. Lawrence and Utawa Rivers, and on the nearer lakes, are manufactured at Three Rivers, and in the neighbourhood, by Indians. The birch tree is found in great plenty near the town; but it is from the more northern part of the country, where the tree attains a very large size, that the principal part of the bark is procured that canoes are made with. The bark resembles in some degree that of the cork tree, but it is of a closer grain, and also much more pliable, for it admits of being rolled up the same as a piece of cloth. The Indians of this part of the country always carry large rolls of it in their canoes when they go on a hunting party, for the purpose of making temporary huts. The bark is spread on small poles over their heads, and fastened with strips of elm bark, which is remarkably tough, to stakes, so as to form walls on the sides.

The canoes are made with birch bark, as follows: The ribs, consisting of thick tough rods, are first bound together; then the birch bark is sowed on in as large pieces as possible, and a thick coat of pitch is laid over the seams between the different pieces. To prevent the bark being injured by the cargo, and to make the canoe stronger, its inside is lined with two layers of thin pieces of pine, laid in a contrary direction to each other. A canoe made in this manner is so light that two men could easily carry one on their shoulders capable of containing six people.

The birch canoes made at Three Rivers are put together with the utmost neatness, and on the water they appear very beautiful. They are made from a size sufficient to hold one man only, to a size large enough for upwards of twenty. It is wonderful to see with what velocity a few skilful men with paddles can take on of these canoes of a size suitable to their number. In a few minutes they would leave the best moulded keel boat, conducted by a similar number of men with oars, far behind. None but experienced persons ought ever to attempt to navigate birch canoes, for they are so light that they are apt to be overset by the least improper movement of the persons in them.

[Sidenote: VILLAGES.]

The day after that on which we quitted Trois Rivieres, we reached Montreal once more. The villages between the two places are very numerous, and the face of the country around them is pleasing, so that the eye of the traveller is constantly entertained as he passes on; but there is nothing in this part of the country particularly deserving of mention.

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_LETTER _ XXIX.

_The Party make the usual Preparations for ascending the St.
Lawrence.—Buffalo Skins.—How used by Travellers.—Difficulty of
proceeding to Lake Ontario otherwise than by Water.—Rapids above
Montreal.—Village of La Chine.—King’s Stores there.—Indian Village on
the opposite side of the River.—Similitude between French Canadians
and Indians in Person and Disposition of Mind.—Owing to this the Power
of the French over the Indians.—Summary View of the Indians in Lower
Canada.—The Party embark in a Bateau at La Chine.—Mode of conducing
Bateaux against a strong Current.—Great Exertion requisite.—Canadians
addicted to smoking.—How they measure Distances.—Description of Lake
St. Louis.—Clouds of Insects over Reed Banks.—Party encamps on l’Isle
Perot.—Passage of Rapids called Les Cascades.—Their tremendous
Appearance.—Description of the Village of the Hill of Cedars.—Rapids
du Coteau du Lac.—Wonderful Rapidity of the Current.—Party
encamps.—Lake St. Francis.—Point au Baudet.—L’Isle aux
Raisins.—Islands in the River still the Property of the Indians.—Not
determined yet whether in the British Territory or that of the
States.—Party encamps.—Storm.—Unpleasant Situation of the
Party.—Relieved.—Continue the Voyage.—Account of more Rapids.—Canals
and Locks at different Places on the River St. Lawrence.—Immense
Flights of Pigeons.—Emigration of Squirrels and Bears.—Oswegatchee
River and Fort la Galette described.—Advantageous Position of the
latter.—Current above this gentle.—Bateaux sail on all Night.—Songs of
the Canadians.—Good Ear for Music.—Lake of a Thousand Isles.—Arrival
at Kingston on Lake Ontario.—Observations on the Navigation of_ _the
St. Lawrence.—The St. Lawrence compared with the Mississippi.—A View
of the different Rivers which open a Water Communication between the
Great Lakes and the Atlantic.—Great Superiority of the St. Lawrence
over all the rest.—Of the Lake Trade._

Kingston, September.

[Sidenote: MONTREAL AND KINGSTON.]

ON arriving at Montreal, our first concern was to provide a large travelling tent, and some camp equipage, buffalo skins[2], a store of dried provisions, kegs of brandy and wine, &c. &c. and, in short, to make every usual and necessary preparation for proceeding up the River St. Lawrence. A few days afterwards, we took our passage for Kingston, on board a bateau, which, together with twelve others, the commissary was sending thither for the purpose of bringing down to Quebec the cannon and ordnance stores that had been taken from the different military posts on the lakes, preparatory to their being delivered up to the United States.

Footnote 2:

In the western parts of Lower Canada, and throughout Upper Canada,
where it is customary for travellers to carry their own bedding with
them, these skins are very generally made use of for the purpose of
sleeping upon. For upwards of two months we scarcely ever had any
other bed than one of the skins spread on the floor and a blanket to
each person. The skins are dressed by the Indians with the hair on,
and they are rendered by a certain process as pliable as cloth. When
the buffalo is killed in the beginning of the winter, at which time he
is fenced against the cold, the hair resembles very much that of a
black bear; it is then long, straight, and of a blackish colour; but
when the animal is killed in the summer, the hair is short and curly,
and of a light brown colour, owing to its being scorched by the rays
of the sun.

On the north-west side of the St. Lawrence, except for about fifty miles or thereabouts, are roads, and also scattered settlements, at no great distance from each other, the whole way between Montreal and Kingston, which is situated at the eastern extremity of Lake Ontario; but no one ever thinks of going thither by land, on account of the numberless inconveniencies such a journey would be attended with; indeed, the difficulty of getting horses across the many deep and rapid rivers falling into the St. Lawrence, would in itself be sufficient to deter travellers from proceeding by land to Kingston, supposing even that there were none other to encounter. A water conveyance is by far the most eligible, and except only between Quebec and Montreal, it is the conveyance universally made use of in every part of the country, that is, when people wish merely to follow the course of the rivers, in the neighbourhood of which alone there are any settlements.

The rapids in the St. Lawrence are so very strong just above Montreal, that the bateaux are never laden at the town, but suffered to proceed empty as far as the village of La Chine, which stands on the island of Montreal, about nine miles higher up. The goods are sent, from Montreal, thither in carts.

[Sidenote: LA CHINE.]

La Chine is built on a fine gravelly beach, at the head of a little bay at the lower end of Lake St. Louis, which is a broad part of the river St. Lawrence. A smart current sets down the lake, and owing to it there is generally a considerable curl on the surface of the water, even close to the shore, which, with the appearance of the boats and canoes upon it in motion, gives the place a very lively air. The situation of the village is indeed extremely agreeable, and from some of the storehouses there are most charming views of the lake, and of the country at the opposite side of it. There are very extensive storehouses belonging to the King, and also to the merchants of Montreal. In the former the presents for the Indians are deposited as soon as they arrive from England; and prior to their being sent up the country they are inspected by the commanding officer of the garrison of Montreal and a committee of merchants, who are bound to make a faithful report to government, whether the presents are agreeable to the contract, and as good as could be obtained for the price that is paid for them.

In sight of La Chine, on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, stands the village of the Cachenonaga Indians, whom I have already had occasion to mention. The village contains about fifty log houses and a Roman catholic church, built in the Canadian style, and ornamented within with pictures, lamps, &c. in such a manner as to attract the eye as forcibly as possible. The outward shew, and numerous ceremonies of the Roman catholic religion, are particularly suited to the capacities of the Indians, and as but very little restraint is imposed upon them by the missionaries, more of them become converts to that religion than to any other. The worship of the Holy Virgin meets in a very peculiar manner with the approbation of the squaws, and they sing her praises with the most profound devotion.

In this and all the other Indian villages situated in the improved parts of Lower Canada, a great mixture of the blood of whites with that of the aborigines is observable in the persons of the inhabitants; there are also considerable numbers of the French Canadians living in these villages, who have married Indian wives, and have been adopted into the different nations with whom they reside. Many of the French Canadians bear such a close resemblance to the Indians, owing to their dark complexions, black eyes, and long black hair, that when attired in the same habits it is only a person intimately acquainted with the features of the Indians that could distinguish the one race of men from the other. The dispositions of the two people also accord together in a very striking manner; both are averse to a settled life, and to regular habits of industry; both are fond of roving about, and procuring sustenance by hunting rather than by cultivating the earth; nature seems to have implanted in their hearts a reciprocal affection for each other; they associate together, and live on the most amicable terms; and to this one circumstance more than to any other cause is to be attributed that wonderful ascendancy which the French were ever known to have over the Indians, whilst they had possession of Canada. It is very remarkable indeed, that in the upper country, notwithstanding that presents to such a very large amount are distributed amongst the Indians through the hands of the English inhabitants, and that their natural rights are as much respected by them as they possibly can be, yet an Indian, even at this day, will always go to the house of a poor French farmer in preference to that of an Englishman.

[Sidenote: CACHENONAGA INDIANS.]

The numbers of the Cachenonaga nation, in the village near La Chine, are estimated at one hundred and fifty persons. The other Indian villages, in the civilized parts of Lower Canada, are, one of the Canasadogas, situated near the mouth of the Utawas River; one of the Little Algonquins, near Trois Rivieres; one of the Aberachies, near Trois Rivieres, at the opposite side of the river; and one of the Hurons, near Quebec; but none of these villages are as large as that of the Cachenonagas. The numbers of the Indians in the lower province have diminished very fast of late years, as they have done in every other part of the continent, where those of the white inhabitants have increased; in the whole lower province, at present, it is thought that there are not more than twelve hundred of them. Many of these Indians are continually loitering about the large towns, in expectation of getting spirits or bread, which they are extremely fond of, from the inhabitants. No less than two hundred, that had come a great distance in canoes, from the lower parts of the river St. Lawrence, were encamped on Point Levi when we visited Quebec. These Indians, squalid and filthy in the extreme, and going about the streets every day in large parties, begging, presented a most melancholy picture of human nature; and indeed, if a traveller never saw any of the North American Indians, but the most decent of those who are in the habit of frequenting the large towns of Lower Canada, he would not be led to entertain an opinion greatly in their favour. The farther you ascend up the country, and consequently the nearer you see the Indians to what they were in their original state, before their manners were corrupted by intercourse with the whites, the more do you find in their character and conduct deserving of admiration.

[Sidenote: BRIGADE OF BATEAUX.]

It was on the 28th day of August that we reached La Chine; the next day the “brigade,” as it was called, of bateaux was ready, and in the afternoon we set out on our voyage. Three men are found sufficient to conduct an empty bateau of about two tons burthen up the St. Lawrence, but if the bateau be laden more are generally allowed. They ascend the stream by means of poles, oars, and sails. Where the current is very strong, they make use of the former, keeping as close as possible to the shore, in order to avoid the current, and to have the advantage of shallow water to pole in. The men set their poles altogether at the same moment, and all work at the same side of the bateau; the steersman, however, shifts his pole occasionally from side to side, in order to keep the vessel in an even direction. The poles commonly used are about eight feet in length, extremely light, and headed with iron. On coming to a deep bay or inlet, the men abandon the poles, take to their oars, and strike if possible directly across the mouth of the bay; but in many places the current proves so strong that it is absolutely impossible to stem it by means of oars, and they are obliged to pole entirely round the bays. Whenever the wind is favourable they set their sail; but it is only at the upper end of the river, beyond the rapids, or on the lakes or broad parts of it, where the current is not swift, that the sail by itself is sufficient to impel them forward.

The exertion it requires to counteract the force of the stream by means of poles and oars is so great, that the men are obliged to stop very frequently to take breath. The places at which they stop are regularly ascertained; some of them, where the current is very rapid, are not more than half a mile distant one from the other; others one or two, but none of them more than four miles apart. Each of these places the boatmen, who are almost all French Canadians, denominate “une pipe,” because they are allowed to stop at it and fill their pipes. A French Canadian is scarcely ever without a pipe in his mouth, whether working at the oar or plough; whether on foot, or on horseback; indeed, so much addicted are the people to smoking, that by the burning of the tobacco in their pipes they commonly ascertain the distance from one place to another. Such a place, they say, is three pipes off, that is, it is so far off that you may smoke three pipes full of tobacco whilst you go thither. A pipe, in the most general acceptation of the word, seemed to be about three quarters of an English mile.

[Sidenote: LAKE ST. LOUIS.]

Lake St. Louis, commencing, or rather terminating, at La Chine, for that village stands at the lower end of it, is about twelve miles in length and four in breadth. At its uppermost extremity it receives a large branch of the Utawas River, and also the south-west branch of the River St. Lawrence, which by some geographers is called the River Cadaraqui, and by others the River Iroquois; but in the country, generally speaking, the whole of that river, running from Lake Ontario to the Gulph of St. Lawrence, goes simply under the name of the St. Lawrence.

At the upper end of Lake St. Louis the water is very shallow, owing to the banks of mud and sand washed up by the two rivers. These very extensive banks, are entirely covered with reeds, so that when a vessel sails over them she appears at a little distance to be absolutely sailing over dry land. As we passed along this part of the lake we were enveloped with clouds of little insects, different from any I ever saw before or afterwards in the country; but they are common, it is said, on various parts of the River St. Lawrence. Their size was somewhat larger than that of the gnat; their colour a pure white; and so delicately were they formed, that by the slightest touch they were destroyed and reduced to powder. They were particularly attracted by any white object, and having once alighted were not to be driven away but by force. The leaves of a book, which I happened to have in my hand, were in a few seconds so thickly covered by them that it was impossible to discern a single letter, and no sooner was one swarm of them brushed off than a fresh one immediately alighted. These insects have very broad wings in proportion to their size, and fly heavily, so that it is only when the air is remarkably calm that they can venture to make their appearance.

[Sidenote: ENCAMPMENT.]

About sun-set on this, the first evening of our voyage, we reached the island of Perot, situated at the mouth of the Utawas River. This island is about fourteen miles in circumference; its soil is fertile, and it is well cultivated. There are two considerable villages near its center, but towards Point St. Claire, at its lower extremity, the settlements are but very few. We landed at the point, and pitched our tent in a meadow which stood bordering upon the water. Here the bateaux were drawn up, and having been properly secured, the different crews, amounting in all to upwards of fifty men, divided themselves into small parties, and kindled fires along the shore, in order to cook their provisions for the succeeding day, and to keep themselves warm during the night. These men, who are engaged in conducting bateaux in Canada, are, as I have before observed, a very hardy race: when the weather is fair, they sleep on the grass at night, without any other covering than a short blanket, scarcely reaching down to their knees; during wet weather a sail or a blanket to the weather side, spread on poles stuck into the ground in an inclined direction, is all the shelter they deem necessary. On setting out each man is furnished with a certain allowance of salted pork, biscuit, pease, and brandy; the pease and biscuit they boil with some of the pork into porridge, and a large vessel full of it, is generally kept at the head of the bateau, for the use of the crew when they stop in the course of the day. This porridge, or else cold fat salted pork, with cucumbers, constitutes the principal part of their food. The cucumber is a fruit that the lower classes of the French Canadians are extremely fond of; they use it however in a very indifferent state, as they never pull it until it has attained a large size, and is become yellow and seedy. Cucumbers thus mellow, chopped into small pieces without being peeled, and afterwards mixed with sour cream, is one of their favourite dishes.

At day-break on the second morning of our voyage, we quitted the island of Perot, and crossed the Utawas River, in order to gain the mouth of the south-west branch of the St. Lawrence. A tremendous scene is here presented to the view; each river comes rushing down into the lake, over immense rocks, with an impetuosity which, seemingly, nothing can resist. The waves are as high as what are commonly met with in the British Channel during a smart breeze, and the breakers so numerous and dangerous, that one would imagine a bateau could not possibly live in the midst of them; and indeed, unless it were navigated by men intimately acquainted with the place, and very expert at the same time, there would be evident danger of its being filled with water. Several times, as we passed through the breakers, the water dashed over the sides of our bateau. Tremendous and dangerous, however, as the rapids are at this spot, they are much less so than some of those met with higher up the River St. Lawrence.

The water of the Utawas River is remarkably clear, and of a bright greenish colour; that of the St. Lawrence, on the contrary, is muddy, owing to its passing over deep beds of marl for some miles before it enters into Lake St. Louis. For a considerable way down the lake the waters of the two rivers may be plainly distinguished from each other.

[Sidenote: THE RAPIDS.]

The Rapids immediately at the mouth of the south-west branch of the St. Lawrence are called “Les Cascades,” or, “Le Saut de Trou.” In laden bateaux it is no arduous task to shoot down them, but it is impossible to mount against the stream even in such as are empty. In order to avoid the laborious task therefore of carrying them along the shore past the rapids, as used formerly to be done, a canal with a double lock has been made here at a great expence. This canal extends but a very little way, not more than fifty yards perhaps. Beyond this there is a succession of other rapids, the first of which, called “Le Saut de Buisson” on account of the closeness of the woods along the shores on each side, is so strong, that in order to pass it, it is necessary to lighten the bateaux very considerably. If the cargoes are large, they are wholly taken out at once, and sent forward in carts to the distance of a mile and a half, past all the rapids. The men are always obliged here to get out of the bateaux, and haul them along with ropes, it being wholly impracticable to counteract the force of the current by means of poles alone.

The passage of these rapids is so very tedious, that we here quitted the bateaux, took our guns in hand, and proceeded on foot to “Le Coteau des Cedres,” the Hill of Cedars, about nine miles higher up the river. In going thither you soon lose sight of the few straggling houses at the cascades, and enter the recesses of a remarkably thick wood, whose solemn gloom, together with the loud roaring of the waters at a distance, and the wild appearance of every object around you, inspire the mind with a sort of pleasing horror. As you approach “Le Coteau des Cedres,” the country assumes a softer aspect; cultivated fields and neat cottages once more appear in view, and the river, instead of being agitated by tremendous rapids, is here seen gliding on with an even current between its lofty banks.