Chapter II: Preface: To Economical Housewives

The wide publicity which the press in different sections of the country has given to my offer to show workingpeople earning a dollar and a half, or less, per day, how to get a good dinner for fifteen cents, has brought me a great many letters from those who earn more, and can consequently afford a more extended diet.

In response to their requirements I have written this book, which I hope will be found servicable in that middle department of cookery it is designed to occupy, where we begin to look for more than the absolute necessaries of life; it is a practical guide to the economical, healthful, and palatable preparation of food, and will serve to show that it is possible to live well upon a very moderate income.

It is necessary to repeat in this book some of the directions given in the work on "FIFTEEN CENT DINNERS;" but I hope their reappearance will be pardoned on the ground of their usefulness, and also because the first book will fail to reach many for whom this one is intended.

The cheapest kinds of food are sometimes the most wholesome and strengthening; but in order to obtain all their best qualities we must know how to choose them for their freshness, goodness, and suitability to our needs. That done, we must know how to cook them, so as to make savory and nutritious meals instead of tasteless or sodden messes, the eating whereof sends the man to the liquor shop for consolation.

Good food, properly cooked, gives us good blood, sound bones, healthy brains, strong nerves, and firm flesh, to say nothing of good tempers and kind hearts. These are surely worth a little trouble to secure.

The first food of nearly all living creatures is milk, the only entire natural food; that is, the only food upon which health and strength can be sustained for any length of time, without using any other nourishment. For this reason it is the best food you can give the children if you must restrict their diet at all; and it is also a valuable addition to the food of grown persons. While this fact about milk is settled, it is generally acknowledged by people who study the subject that we thrive best on a variety. We get warmth and strength from fat meat, wheat, rye, barley, rice, milk, sugar, fruit, peas, beans, lentils, macaroni, and the roots of vegetables; we gain flesh from lean meat, unbolted flour, oatmeal, eggs, cheese, and green vegetables; and, if we want to think clearly, we must use fish, poultry, the different grains, and a good variety of fruit and vegetables.

The food most generally in use among the masses is just that which meets their requirements. No hungry man will spend money for what he knows will not satisfy his appetite, and a natural appetite may always be trusted. For that reason the receipts given in this book treat of the articles in common use, with the exception of lentils and macaroni, which are foods that I earnestly beg all to try. In meals made up of bacon, potatoes and bread, of corned beef and cabbage, and of pork and beans, there exists an equal and sufficient amount of nourishment; but if other dishes are added to these, the variety will result in better general health and contentment. If we were to live day after day on rice, bread, potatoes, or any one other article of food, we would not long be strong enough for any kind of work. In matters of diet variety is not only the spice of life, it is the necessity.

In estimating cost, I have naturally supposed that the family consists of father, mother, and children of different ages, and not of six adults; for them the quantities given would, of course, be insufficient. I allow a meat dinner every day; but in order to have this the meat itself must generally be used one day, with bread or vegetables, and the next day the breakfast must be the broth or juice of the meat, which, if prepared according to my directions, will afford equal nourishment.

I wish to call your attention to the following important fact. The hardy and thrifty working classes of France, the country where the most rigid economy in regard to food is practised, never use tea or coffee for breakfast, and seldom use milk. Their food and drink is BROTH. Not the broth from fresh meat, for they do not often eat that; but that which is made from vegetables, and perhaps a bit of bacon or salt pork.

If you will reflect on the reasons I give in the next chapter for boiling food, instead of roasting or baking it, you will learn two important lessons in economy, namely: that boiling saves at least one fourth the volume of food, and that the broth which is produced, when properly managed, always gives the foundation for another meal. You should always bear in mind that the object of cooking is to soften and disintegrate food, so that it can be easily masticated; and to expand it, so as to present a large surface to the action of the digestive organs. In this connection you must open your eyes to certain physiological facts if you want your food to agree with you. I shall not tell you more, and perhaps not so much, as you ought to know, and to teach your children.

In calculating the cost of the receipts I give you, I have used the retail prices asked in Washington market, and in ordinary grocery stores, at this season of the year; the average is about the same as that of past years, and probably will not change much; so that I believe I have not placed too low an estimate upon them.

At the first glance it may seem impossible to buy healthy meat at the prices I give, but you must remember that I speak of the good second quality of meat, and that the marketing must be done with economy, and in low-priced localities. It _can_ be done, for I have done it myself. Go to packing houses, and provision stores, for meats; to German green-groceries for vegetables, and fruit; and to "speciality" stores, for butter, sugar, tea, et cetera.

In conclusion I only have to say that I hope my little book will be useful to every one who consults it.

JULIET CORSON.

_New York Cooking School._

DAILY BILLS OF FARE FOR ONE WEEK.

{ Breakfast: Johnny Cake, 5; Cocoa, 6; Broiled }
{ Herring, 5. 16 }
{ }
MONDAY { Dinner: Chicken Soup with Rice, 5; Fried }
{ Chicken and Potatoes, 35. 40 } 75
{ }
{ Supper: Tea, 3; Broiled Kidneys, 10; Rice }
{ Bread, 6. 19 }

{ Breakfast: Pulled Bread, 3; Coffee, 6; Macaroni, }
{ Farmers' Style, 10. 19 }
{ }
TUESDAY { Dinner: Broth and Brewis, 5; Stewed Beef }
{ with Norfolk Dumplings, 19. 24 } 62
{ }
{ Supper: Tea, 3; Peas Pudding, 10; Bread, 6. 19 }

{ Breakfast: Biscuit, 6; Cocoa, 6; Codfish }
{ Steaks, 15. 27 }
{ }
WEDNESDAY { Dinner: Spinach Soup, 15; Gammon Dumplings }
{ and Potatoes, 15. 30 } 76
{ }
{ Supper: Tea, 3; Baked Beans, 10; Potato }
{ Bread, 6. 19 }

{ Breakfast: Breakfast Rolls, 6; Cocoa, 6; }
{ Stewed Pig's Kidneys, 10. 22 }
{ }
THURSDAY { Dinner: Macaroni with White Sauce, 10; }
{ Brain and Liver Pudding, with potatoes, }
{ 18. 28 } 69
{ }
{ Supper: Tea, 3; Rice, Japanese Style, 10; }
{ Bread, 6. 19 }

{ Breakfast: Indian Cakes, 5; Coffee, 6; Vegetable }
{ Porridge, 15. 26 }
{ }
FRIDAY { Dinner: Thick Pea Soup, 6; Fish and Potato }
{ Pudding, 15. 21 } 66
{ }
{ Supper: Tea, 3; Fried Beans, 10; Rice }
{ Bread, 6. 19 }

{ Breakfast: Biscuit, 6; Cocoa, 6; Rice, Milanaise }
{ Style, 10. 22 }
{ }
SATURDAY { Dinner: Mutton Broth, with Barley, 3; Epigramme }
{ of Lamb, 16; Potatoes, 3. 22 } 58
{ }
{ Supper: Tea, 3; Polenta, 5; Potato Bread, 6. 14}

{ Breakfast: Toast, 6; Fried Lentils, 10; }
{ Coffee, 6; Oatmeal Porridge, 8. 30 }
{ }
SUNDAY { Dinner: Roast Fowl and Baked Potatoes, 38; }
{ Half-pay Pudding, 20. 58 } 1.19
{ }
{ Supper: German Potatoes, 10; Cream Rice }
{ Pudding, 15; Bread, 6. 31 }

TOTAL. $5.25

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.

_Marketing._ PAGE.

Composition and nutritive value of Meat, Blood, and Bones--How to choose Meat--Beef--Mutton--Lamb--Veal--Pork--Poultry--Game Birds--Fish--Vegetables--Fruit 10

CHAPTER II.

_How to Cook, Season, and Measure._

Effect of different methods of cooking--Roasting or Baking--Broiling--Boiling and Stewing--Frying--Cooking Salt and Smoked Meats--Seasoning Food--Dried Celery and Parsley--Dried Herbs--Table Sauce--Celery Salt--Spice Salt--Lemon, Orange, and Vanilla Tinctures--Table for Measuring Food 16

CHAPTER III.

_Beverages._

Tea--Coffee--Cocoa and Chocolate--Beer--Barley Water--Milk--Lime Water 20

CHAPTER IV.

_Bread, Macaroni, and Rice._

Comparative price and nutritive value of different kinds of bread--Homemade Bread--Rice Bread--Potato Bread--Pulled Bread--Bread made with Baking Powder--Breakfast Rolls--Tea Biscuit--Nutritive value of Macaroni--Macaroni Farmers' Style--Macaroni with Broth--Macaroni with White Sauce--Macaroni with Cheese--Macaroni Milanaise Style--Macaroni with Tomato Sauce--Tomato Sauce--Rice--Rice Panada--Boiled Rice--Rice Milanaise Style--Rice Japanese Style 24

CHAPTER V.

_Soup._

Nutritive value of Soup--General directions for making Soup--Scotch Broth without Meat--Pea Soup--Thick Pea Soup--Bean Soup--Lentil Soup--Onion Soup--Spinach Soup--Francatelli's Vegetable Soup--Vegetable Porridge--Rice Milk--Fish Soup--Fish Chowder--Mutton Broth--Veal Broth--White Broth--Cream Soup--Beef Broth--Norfolk Dumplings--Meat Brewis 31

CHAPTER VI.

_Peas, Beans, Lentils, and Maize._

Value of Leguminous Vegetables for Hard Workers--Oatmeal and Peas--Peas-Pudding--Peas and Bacon--Baked Peas--Peas and Onions--Baked Beans--Stewed Beans--Fried Beans--Beans and Bacon--Boiled Lentils--Stewed Lentils--Fried Lentils--Indian Corn Meal--Polenta--Cheese Pudding--Hasty Pudding--Johnny Cake--Indian Cakes--Indian Bread--Boiled Indian Pudding--Baked Indian Pudding 38

CHAPTER VII.

_Cheap Fish and Meat Dinners._

Nutritive value of Fish--Pickled Fish--London Fried Fish--Fish and Potato Pie--Fish Pudding--Fish and Potato Pudding--Codfish Steaks--Red Herrings with Potatoes--Cheap Meats--Sheeps' Head Stew--Oxtail Stew--Beef Pie--Baked Heart--Stewed Kidneys and Potatoes--Pig's Kidneys--Kidney Pudding--Gammon Dumpling--Bacon and Apple Roly-poly--Mutton and Onions--Pork and Onions--Veal and Rice--Irish Stew--Sheep's Haslet--Baked Pig's Head 43

CHAPTER VIII.

_Sunday Dinners._

Economy of Combination Dishes--Roast Fowl--Forcemeat or Stuffing--Chicken Gravy--Fried Chicken--Frying Batter--Chicken Broth--New York Cooking School Fricassee--Suet Dumplings--Rabbit Curry--Rabbit Pie--Pickled Shad--Pork Pie--Pork Chops--Roast Pork and Apples--Stewed Sausage--German Potatoes--Brain and Liver Pudding--Broiled Kidneys--Tripe, Curry, and Rice--Liver Polenta--_A la Mode_ Beef--Meat Patties--Boiled Mutton--Mutton _rechauffée_--Mutton Kromeskys--Plain Frying Batter--_Epigramme_ of Lamb--Roast Veal--Forcemeat for Veal--_Blanquette_ of Veal--Veal and Ham Patties 50

CHAPTER IX.

_Cheap Puddings, Pies, and Cakes._

Comparative nutritive value of Puddings, Pies, and Cakes--Swiss Pudding--Cream Sauce--College Puddings--Cream Rice Pudding--Half-pay Pudding--Bread Pudding--Cup Custards--Fruit Dumpling--Apple Dumplings--Baked Apple Dumplings--Lemon Dumplings--Rice Croquettes--Fruit Tarts--Rice Cake--Rock Cakes--Caraway Cake--Soft Gingerbread--Sweet Biscuits 62

CHAPTER X.

_Dessert Dishes._

Directions for making cheap and enjoyable delicacies from Fruit--Apple Black Caps--Apple Snow--Apple Cakes--Cherry Cheese--Candied Cherries--Currant Salad--Iced Currants--Compôte of Damsons--Stuffed Dates--Stewed Figs--Compôte of Gooseberries--Gooseberry Cheese--Gooseberry Fool--Grape Jelly--Green Gage Compôte--Pine Apple Julep--Lemon Snow--Melon Compôte--Orange Salad--Orange and Apple Compôte--Peach Salad--Cold Compôte of Pears--Stewed Prunelles--Quince Cakes--Quince Snow--Iced Raspberries--Raspberry Salad--Compôte of Strawberries--Strawberry Drops--Compôte of Mixed Fruits--Fruit Juice 67