Chapter II: Bagnères De Bigorre

Backward spring--Hôtel Beau Séjour--Effect of the war of '70 on the English colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent--Géruzet's marble works--Donkeys--Up the Monné--Bains de Santé--Bains de Grand Pré--Salut Avenue and baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"--Luncheon--Daffodils--The summit and the view--The "Castel-Mouly"--The Tapére--Mde. Cottin--Mont Bédat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse--"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The old iron and shoe dealers--Sunday--A cat fight--The English Church--To the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbé's Song"--Baudéan--Campan, its people and church--Wayside chapels--Ste. Marie--The route to Gripp, &c.--Payole--The pine forest--The Col d'Aspin--The view from the Monné Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine"--The Menu at Payole--Hurrah for the milk!--Departures--Divine music--Asté--Gabrielle d'Estrelle--The ivied ruins--The church-- Pitton de Tournefort--Gerde--The pigeon traps--The cattle market --The Jacobin tower--Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes --Hospice Civil--Eglise des Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, her cakes and tea--Bigorre in tears

CHAPTER III.

LOURDES.

The journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes station in the wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hôtel des Pyrénées--"Red tape" and Porters--Lourdes in sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la Grotte"-- "The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--The Grotto--Abject reverence--The Church--Saint Bernard--Interior of church--The panorama--Admirable effect--Rue du Fort--The castle--The view from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels

CHAPTER IV.

ARGELÈS.

Road _v_. rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hôtel d'Angleterre--Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden path--The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argelès church--Route Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular fix"--Serres--"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother" --A frothing stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz --Ourous--Contented villagers--The high road--The bridge on the Pierrefitte road--Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"--The "witch of the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's Lamb"--Round the Argelès valley--Château de Beaucens--Villelongue-- Soulom--The old church--Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The verger and the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's tomb--The Château de Miramont--Jugged Izard--Market-day--Sour bread and the remedy--Arrival of the first parcel.