Chapter I: Preface

This record of two years’ scientific work in the only country of the globe that has still escaped exploration purposely avoids the dry detail of a Natural History Report, such as might properly be submitted to a learned society, and is intended rather to set forth to the general reader the vicissitudes of the traveller’s daily life in unknown New Guinea, or Papua as I prefer to call it. Every hour brought a new interest, and it was with the intention of trying to communicate some impression of that wonderful land in which we sojourned, that the present account has been undertaken. If the result is disappointing to the reader, the fault must lie with the writer and not with Papua.

During my brief residences in the known parts of New Guinea, I received much kind assistance and furtherance in my marches into the wilds from officials, missionaries, and settlers, and I would here especially acknowledge my indebtedness to his Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor, Mr. G. Ruthven Le Hunte, Mr. A. Musgrave, C.B., Captain Barton, the Hon. D. Ballantine, Mr. Robert Hislop, and Mr. James Wood; His Grace Archbishop Navarre, Coadjutor Bishop de Boismenu, both of the Sacred Heart Mission; Dr. Laws and the Rev. H. Dauncey of the London Missionary Society.

The Dutch officials to whom I am under deep obligations are Mr. Kroesen, the Resident of Merauke, Mr. M. C. Schadee, the Controller, and also the captain of the gunboat _Neas_.

For permission to reprint the section on the Lakatois and several other passages I am indebted to the _Wide World Magazine_, and the chapter on “British Trade Prospects in New Guinea” is given by consent of the _British Trade Journal_.

My particular acknowledgments are due to Messrs. G. H. Kendrick, Mr. G. T. Bethune Baker, F.L.S., and Miss Wilmott, without whose help the expedition could not have been undertaken, and I must also mention Mr. S. H. Soper, F.R.G.S., another friend whose interest and assistance was of the greatest value to me.

A. E. P.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

BREAKING THE GROUND

PAGE

The Author’s many Journeys—New Guinea more Interesting than all—
The Second Largest Island in the World, and the last to Guard
its Secrets from Man—Its Vast Possibilities to the Trader and
the Man of Science—Great Riches in Birds and Insects—770 known
Species of Birds—The People—Their Many Dialects—A Geographical
Reason for this—Toilsome Travel—Razor-like Ridges in Endless
Succession—The Author’s Camps—Journeys Outlined—In Unexplored
Country—Gorgeous Scenery—Variations of Temperature—The Chief
Bugbear, Transport 17

CHAPTER II

DISAPPOINTMENTS IN DUTCH NEW GUINEA

Dutch New Guinea—The Coast—Unsavoury Mud-banks—Merauke—The Dutch
Settlement described—Its Wonderful Modernity—A Fierce Tribe, the
Tugeri, now described for the first time—Their Appearance and
Habits—Their Continual Murderous Raids—The Fearful Bamboo Knife—
Scientific Work here impossible owing to Danger of going beyond
Settlement Boundaries—Outbreak of a Mysterious Disease at
Merauke—Its Swift Deadliness—The Symptoms—Determine to leave
Dutch New Guinea and prepare for a March into the Unexplored
Interior 37

CHAPTER III

CHANGES AND STRANGE SCENES

We sail to Thursday Island—A Rough Voyage in a Cattle-boat—A
Glimpse of Thursday Island—The Wonderful Colour of its Waters—We
reach Port Moresby—Contrast to the Scenery of Dutch New Guinea—
Magnificent Mountains—Evidences of Drought—Vegetation burnt up—
The British Government Post of Port Moresby described—A Good
Second to Hades or Aden—The Great Sight of Port Moresby—A
Community of Hereditary Potters—The Pottery Trading Fleet—The
Strange Vessels called Lakatois—Their Structure—Native Orgies
before the Expedition starts—A New Guinea Ballet on Deck—
Seclusion of Women after the Young Braves depart with the Fleet—
My Inland Expedition fitted out—Official Courtesy—Details of
Baggage—Transport procured after Immense Trouble 59

CHAPTER IV

WE STRIKE INLAND

We start Inland—Friendly Natives but Hostile Mosquitoes—Bioto
Creek—Bioto—Guest Houses—A splendid Game Region—Daily Migration
of Flocks of Pigeons—Greedy Coast Natives—Carriers Inadequate—A
Double Journey in Relays—We meet the Chief Mavai, a great Papuan
Character—Mavai’s Way of Life—His Harem—His Western Notions—His
Trousers—His Red Coat—His Severe Discipline—As we proceed,
Construction of Native Houses more elaborate—On to Ekeikei and
Dinawa—March through Wet Vegetation—Tortured by Leeches and an
Abominable Parasite, the Scrub-Itch—A Gloomy Forest—Magnificent
Orchids—Carriers stimulate Laggard Comrades with Nettles—The
Aculama River—I discover a New Fish 81

CHAPTER V

THE FIRST CAMP

Journey continued—A Glorious Scarlet Creeper—Dinawa—Site for Camp
selected—Building Camp—Native Assistance—Organisation for
Scientific Work—Daily Routine—Teaching the Natives how to Catch
and Handle Entomological Specimens—Sudden Affluence leads one of
my Native Boys to Desert—He is Caught and Reformed—My best
Native Assistant and his Wife—Female Influence a great Asset
with other Women—The Day’s Work—Collecting at Night—Photography—
A Dark Room in the Wilds—Native Interest in Developing 105

CHAPTER VI

VICISSITUDES AND A DIGRESSION

The Drought affects our Work—Butterflies begin to Fail—Forest
Fires—We descend to the St. Joseph River—A Temporary Camp—A
Wonderful Native Suspension Bridge—River Scenery—Native Methods
of Fishing—Dull Weather and Little Success in Collecting—A Comic
Incident—A Native besieged by a Wild Pig—War—Native Hostility—A
Chief threatens to Cook and Eat our Heads—Strict Guard kept on
Camp—The Bird of Paradise—Papuan Game Laws—Natives’ Interest in
Writing—Further Stay at the St. Joseph impracticable—A Flood
destroys our Bridge—A Visit to a Native Village—Curious Means of
Ingress—Return to Dinawa—My Cingalese Headman’s Experiences—He
evades Native Treachery—Sudden Growth of New Township 125

CHAPTER VII

GOOD-BYE TO DINAWA

A Beautiful New Orchid discovered and described—Drought continues—
Sufferings of the Natives—I practise as a Physician—Queer Native
Diagnosis—Gaberio, an Intelligent Native, goes collecting on his
own account—How we kept touch—The Wireless Telegraph of the
Wilds—We determine to take our Specimens to the Coast—Methods of
Preservation and Packing—Gaberio returns—He tells of the Murder
of one of his Boys—Hardships of Camp Life—Food and Ammunition
fail—We try Cockatoo Soup—A Visit from a Fine Hill Tribe, the
Ibala—They brighten the Last Days of our Stay—Gorgeous Sunsets
at Dinawa—The Ibala People return according to Contract to act
as Carriers—We depart—Trials of the March to the Coast—A Mishap
at Sea—Our Fine Herbarium ruined with Salt Water—Port Moresby
once again 141

CHAPTER VIII

INACTION AND AN EXCURSION

Period of Inaction at Port Moresby—Christmas in New Guinea—A
Scratch Dinner—A Christmas Privilege for Cingalese to obtain
Spirits—Curious Effect on One Individual—A Noteworthy Character—
An Excursion to Hula—A Fisher Community—A Piebald People—
Picturesque Night Fishing by Flare Light—Fishermen often Killed
by Gare-Fish—Hula Houses—Various Traits of Native Life—A Walk
round Hood’s Bay—Traces of Initiatory Rites at Kalo—The Kalo
Houses described—On to Kerapuna—A Shooting Expedition—We lose
the Trail—Class Distinctions at Kerapuna—Return to Port Moresby
by Sea—A Perilous Voyage in a Little Canoe—Tragic Death of
Flood, the Naturalist 165

CHAPTER IX

TOWARDS THE UNEXPLORED

Beginning of Furthest Journey into Unexplored Interior—The
Everlasting Question of Carriers—Difficulties and Delays—Epa
again—Curious Method of Water Supply—Mavai welcomes us back—He
provides a Dubious Treat—Ekeikei—The Building of a Permanent
Camp—An Elaborate Undertaking—House-building on a Large Scale—
Ingenious Papuan Methods of Thatching—The Chief Kafulu proves
Unneighbourly—He does not fulfil his Engagements—Ow-bow’s
Embassy—My Deputy is robbed—Precautions in Camp against Attack—I
go down to Kafulu and deal faithfully with him—He relents, and
restores Ow-bow’s Goods—An Earthquake and Hurricane at Ekeikei 183

CHAPTER X

UPS AND DOWNS

My man Sam goes to the Kebea to collect—We go to the Coast again
with our Specimens—A Dreadful Night in Bioto Creek—A Crocodile
River—A Tempestuous Voyage to Thursday Island—Fever—Return to
Port Moresby—Adrift for Three Days in a Heavy Sea—A German
Captain’s Thrilling Story of the Storm—We return to Ekeikei—A
New Trouble—Epidemic of Measles among Native Followers—Harry
goes off alone among Cannibals—Adventurous Journey of a Boy of
Sixteen—Description of Native Village on a 15–inch-wide Ridge 201

CHAPTER XI

A BOY OF SIXTEEN ALONE WITH CANNIBALS

Further into the Mountains—A Murder—The Settlement of the Blood
Price—A Pig for a Life—Harry’s Further Adventures alone among
Cannibals—Various other Murders—The Village of Amana—A Tree
House—The Lunatic at Amana—Foula—A Pretty Village 221

CHAPTER XII

THE UNEXPLORED: AMONG PAPUAN PEAKS

Still Higher in the Owen Stanley Range—The Road to Mafulu—Beauties
of the Forest—The Hill Step—Curious Habit of Walking acquired in
Abrupt Ground—Cold at High Altitudes—A New Camp built—Alpine
Signs in Insects and Flowers—Routine Work—Food runs low again—
Native Thieves—Followers discontented—They fear the Hostile
Mafulu People—Daily Threats of Desertion—Strict Watch—My Rule
for Night Visitors—Compulsory Carrying of Torches and Disarming—
Weirdly Picturesque Night Scenes—Further Privations—Bird of
Paradise Soup—Ugh!—Decide to depart—Natives burn down Camp to
ensure our going 241

CHAPTER XIII

LAST JOURNEY TO THE COAST

A Dangerous Stream-Crossing—Babooni—Sunshine once more—Successful
Work—Poor Fare—Messengers to Ekeikei—The Tree-Cabbage—Method of
Cooking Tree-Cabbage—A Great Curiosity—Spiders’ Webs as
Fishing-Nets—Dancing Festivals—Back to the Kebea—Our Bean Crop—A
Papuan Parliament—We obtain Credit—A Wife-Beater—My only Act of
Perfidy—The Journey to Ekeikei—Back to the Land of Plenty—Last
Visit to Epa—Mavai unfriendly—He is talked over and supplies
Carriers—Example better than Precept—The Coast again—An
Accident—The Natives drink Sea-Water—Good-bye to the
Mountaineers 259

CHAPTER XIV

A FORTY-MILE TRAMP BY THE SHORE

A Comfortless Voyage—A Forty-Mile Tramp along the Coast—Wonders of
the Beach—Armies of Soldier-Crabs—A Crocodile River—A Dangerous
Canoe Voyage—At Port Moresby—A Pathetic Incident—Last Days of
our Stay in New Guinea 279

CHAPTER XV

NATIVE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS

The Papuan at Home—His Good Points—Physical Characteristics—
Ceremonial Dress—Coast and Hill Tribes—Differences—Local
Distribution of the Rami or Petticoat—Its Decrease in Length in
the Mountains—Its Disappearance at Epa—Dandyism—The Priceless
Chimani—The Shell Armlet—Household Constitution—Rudimentary
Government—Courtship and Marriage—The Price of a Wife—Position
of Women—Six Ways of Carrying an Infant—Meal Times—Weapons—
Clubs—Their Manufacture the Monopoly of One Tribe—Weird Tribal
Dances 289

CHAPTER XVI

BURIAL, WITCHCRAFT, AND OTHER THEMES

A Short-lived Race—An Aged Man a Curiosity—Burial Customs—The
Chief Mourner painted Black—Period of Mourning brief except for
the Chief Mourner—No Belief in Natural Death—Poison always
Suspected—Religion all but absent—Vague Belief in Magic—Fi-fi, a
Form of Divination—How practised—Its Utter Childishness—No Idea
of Number—Forest Warnings—“Wada,” another Form of Sorcery—
Mavai’s Hideous Magical Compounds—A People seemingly without
History or Legends—Pictures understood—Fear of the Stereoscope—
The “Bau-bau” or Social Pipe—How Made and Smoked—Incidents of
Travel—The Stinging Trees—Ideas of Medicine—Sovereign Remedies—
Bleeding—How practised—Hunting—The Corral—A Strange Delicacy—
Story of Native Trust in Me—A Loan of Beads—Children and their
Sports—Thirty Ways of Cat’s-Cradle 309

CHAPTER XVII

A NOTE ON BRITISH TRADE PROSPECTS IN NEW GUINEA

Sandalwood—The Sea-Slug—Copra and Cocoa-Nut—Coffee—Cocoa—Chillies—
Rubber—Stock-Raising—Gold—Tobacco—Imports—German Enterprise—Our
Lost Coaling Station 333