Chapter I: Preface

This book is a collection of sketches written on lonely evenings during my voyage; some of them have been published in daily papers, and were so kindly received by the public as to encourage me to issue them in book form. In order to retain the freshness of first impressions, the original form has been but slightly changed, and only so much ethnological detail has been added as will help to an understanding of native life. The book does not pretend to give a scientific description of the people of the New Hebrides; that will appear later; it is meant simply to transmit some of the indelible impressions the traveller was privileged to receive,--impressions both stern and sweet. The author will be amply repaid if he succeeds in giving the reader some slight idea of the charm and the terrors of the islands. He will be proud if his words can convey a vision of the incomparable beauty and peacefulness of the glittering lagoon, and of the sublimity of the virgin forest; if the reader can divine the charm of the native when gay and friendly, and his ferocity when gloomy and hostile. I have set down some of the joys and some of the hardships of an explorer's life; and I received so many kindnesses from all the white colonists I met, that one great object of my writing is to show my gratitude for their friendly help.

First of all, I would mention His Britannic Majesty's Resident, Mr. Morton King, who followed my studies with the most sympathetic interest, was my most hospitable host, and, I may venture to say, my friend. I would name Mr. Colonna, Resident de France, Judge Alexander in Port Vila, and Captain Harrowell; in Santo, Rev. Father Bochu, the Messrs. Thomas, Mr. Fysh, Mr. Clapcott; in Malo, Mr. M. Wells and Mr. Jacquier; in Vao, Rev. Father Jamond; in Malekula, Rev. F. Paton, Rev. Jaffrays, Mr. Bird and Mr. Fleming; in Ambrym, Rev. Dr. J. J. Bowie, Mr. Stevens, Mr. Decent; in Pentecoste, Mr. Filmer; in Aoba, Mr. Albert and Rev. Grunling; in Tanna, Rev. Macmillan and Dr. Nicholson; in Venua Lava, Mr. Choyer; in Nitendi, Mr. Matthews. I am also indebted to the Anglican missionaries, especially Rev. H. N. Drummond, and to Captain Sinker of the steam yacht Southern Cross, to the supercargo and captains of the steamers of Burns, Philp & Company. There are many more who assisted me in various ways, often at the expense of their own comfort and interest, and not the least of the impressions I took home with me is, that nowhere can one find wider hospitality or friendlier helpfulness than in these islands. This has helped me to forget so many things that do not impress the traveller favourably.

If this book should come under the notice of any of these kind friends, the author would be proud to think that they remember him as pleasantly as he will recall all the friendship he received during his stay in the New Hebrides.

BASLE, April 1913.

CONTENTS

Chap. Page
Introduction 1
I. Noumea and Port Vila 19
II. Maei, Tongoa, Epi and Malekula 28
III. The Segond Channel--Life on a Plantation 35
IV. Recruiting for Natives 53
V. Vao 85
VI. Port Olry and a "Sing-Sing" 109
VII. Santo 136
VIII. Santo (continued)--Pygmies 161
IX. Santo (continued)--Pigs 171
X. Climbing Santo Peak 179
XI. Ambrym 191
XII. Pentecoste 224
XIII. Aoba 241
XIV. Loloway--Malo--The Banks Islands 250
XV. Tanna 270
XVI. The Santa Cruz Islands 277

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Shore in Graciosa Bay Frontispiece
Facing page
Women From the Reef Islands in Carlisle Bay 3
Native Taro Field on Maevo 10
Man from Nitendi working the Loom 15
A Cannibal before his Hut on Tanna 22
Dancing Table near Port Sandwich 31
Old Man with Young Wife on Ambrym 40
Front of a Chief's House on Venua Lava 47
Man from Nitendi 54
Cannibal from Big Nambas 61
Woman on Nitendi 70
Canoe on Ureparapara 77
Dancing-Ground on Vao, with Ancestor Houses 85
Dancing-Ground on Vao 93
Woman from Tanna 99
House Fences on Vao 106
Gamal near Port Olry 115
Group of Large and Small Drums near Port Sandwich 129
View along the Shore of a Coral Island 136
Interior of a Gamal on Venua Lava 147
Wild Mountain Scenery in the District of the Pygmies 163
Irrigated Taro Field on Santo 179
Dwelling of a Trader on Ambrym 191
View from Hospital--Dip Point 199
Women cooking on Ambrym 205
Fern Trees on Ambrym 218
Group of Drums and Statues on Malekula 227
Cooking-House on Aoba 241
Fire-Rubbing 244
Tattooing on Aoba 251
Dwelling-House on Gaua 255
Ancestor-House on Gaua 258
Drum Concert on Ureparapara 261
Interior of a Gamal on Gaua 264
Men from Tanna 270
Women from Tanna 272
Canoe from Nitendi 277
Man from Nitendi, Shooting 279
Man from Nitendi, with Pearl Shell Nose 284
Man from Tucopia 287
Map 291

TWO YEARS WITH THE NATIVES IN THE WESTERN PACIFIC