Chapter I: Preface

In the following pages, which in addition to being a record of travel in a delightful and too little known portion of the great Austro-Hungarian Empire, are also an attempt to present within a reasonable compass an account of the national history of a singularly interesting people, the author has sought to deal more fully than is usually the case in books of the kind, with the romance and legend which is closely interwoven with the past of "the land within the mountains," as Tyrol has not inaptly been described.

It is truly a land of mountains, valleys, lakes, and rushing torrents that may well have bred the race of romance-loving, poetic, and hardy people who dwell in it. In the minds of those who know it there arises almost inevitably a comparison with the nowadays overcrowded and over-exploited Switzerland--and the comparison is, both as regards scenery and general interest, greatly in favour of Tyrol. The tourist and holiday-maker who frequent Pontresina or St. Moritz will find in this comparatively new "playground for Europe" beautiful counterparts of those places in Innsbruck, Meran, Botzen, Kitzbühel, and other delightful towns; whilst the more strenuously inclined who delight in mountain ascents will find the Dolomite region especially attractive, and in many other districts also interesting climbs. By the shores of the placid, translucent lakes, and in many a happy, secluded valley, those in search of rest and quietude will find their desire fully satisfied. And in such old-world towns as Innsbruck (of many historical memories), beautiful Salzburg, charming Bregenz, Botzen, and Meran the traveller with more artistic, literary, or antiquarian tastes will delight.

That Tyrol deserves to be better known few who have once come under the spell of its charms of scenery, and the frank hospitality and friendliness of its people, or have wandered amidst its lovely valleys and mountains, will deny.

The early history of this interesting country is shrouded in much mystery, and to place accurately and date many events is a matter of very considerable difficulty, and in some cases of well-nigh impossibility, owing to the fragmentary nature of many of the existing records, and the contradictory nature of the accounts and evidence afforded by these. The greatest care, however, has been taken to make the dates given as accurate as possible, and the best authorities and descriptions of events have been consulted. Amongst others the works of Dr. Franz Wieser, Hans Semper, Von Alpenburg ("Mythen und Sagen Tirols"), Perini ("Castles of Tyrol"), Weber ("The Land of Tyrol"), an excellent and interesting anonymous guide to Salzburg, Scherer, Albert Wolff, V. Zingerle, Steub ("Die Verfassung Tirols"), Miller, and the excellent publications of the Tirol and Salzburg Landesverbaende für Fremdenverkehr, and other organizations.

The spelling of names has presented much the same difficulty as the correct dating of events. There are several, and in some cases many, ways of spelling a large number of these. That of the latest edition of Baedeker has been adopted where this has been the case and doubt has existed.

The author's especial thanks are due to Herr L. Sigmund, the Secretary of the Austrian Travel and Information Bureau, not only for much valuable information, but also for practical assistance whilst travelling in Tyrol, facilities afforded for research, and the use of some excellent photographs.

To W. Baillie Grohman, Esq., of Schloss Matzen, Brixlegg, the well-known authority upon Tyrol, for the settlement of several disputed dates and accounts of historical events. Also for permission to make use of information (not otherwise easily procurable) contained in his exhaustive work "Tyrol, the Land in the Mountains," and for the beautiful photograph of Schloss Matzen reproduced as one of the illustrations in this present volume.

To Dr. Richard Muendl, Imperial Councillor, Chief Inspector of the Imperial Southern Railway, and a member of the German and Austrian Alpine Society, for many valuable notes upon the Dolomite Region incorporated in Chapter X.

To Dr. Otto Rosenheim the author's thanks are given for permission to reproduce some beautiful photographs of Tyrol scenery and Tyrolese subjects in place of less pictorial work by the author himself.

To many others, who gave information to the author during his travels in Tyrol, relating to many interesting matters, acknowledgment is also here gratefully made.

C. H.
_June, 1909_

CONTENTS

PAGE

CHAPTER I

THE ROMANCE AND HISTORY OF TYROL FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES
DOWN TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 1

CHAPTER II

TYROL FROM ITS INCORPORATION BY AUSTRIA AS A PART OF THE
EMPIRE TO THE PRESENT TIME 33

CHAPTER III

SOME CHARACTERISTIC LEGENDS, CUSTOMS, AND SPORTS 52

CHAPTER IV

INNSBRUCK, ITS HISTORY, PEOPLE AND TREASURES 71

CHAPTER V

THE ENVIRONS OF INNSBRUCK--CASTLE AMBRAS AND ITS
TREASURES--IGLS: A QUAINT LEGEND CONCERNING ITS CHURCH--THE
STUBAI VALLEY, AND SOME VILLAGES--HALL AND ITS SALT
MINES--SPECKBACHER'S OLD HOME--ST. MICHAEL 113

CHAPTER VI

SALZBURG, ITS HISTORY AND ROMANCE 147

CHAPTER VII

THE ENVIRONS OF SALZBURG--HELLBRUNN, ITS UNIQUE FOUNTAINS
AND GARDENS--THE CASTLE OF ANIF--THE GAISBERG--THE
KAPUZINGERBERG--THE MOZART-HÄUSCHEN--THE MÖNCHSBERG
--SALZBURG CHURCHES 176

CHAPTER VIII

SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF SOUTH TYROL--MERAN, BOZEN,
KLAUSEN, BRIXEN, SPINGES, STERZING, MATREI 192

CHAPTER IX

SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF WALSCH-TYROL: TRENT, ITS HISTORY,
COUNCIL, AND BUILDINGS--ROVEREDO AND DANTE--ARCO--RIVA 233

CHAPTER X

AMONG THE DOLOMITES, WITH NOTES UPON SOME TOURS AND
ASCENTS 254

CHAPTER XI

THROUGH THE UNTER-INNTHAL: KUFSTEIN--KUNDL--RATTENBERG,
AND THE STORY OF WILHELM BIENER--BRIXLEGG, AND ITS
PEASANT DRAMAS--THE FAMOUS CASTLE OF MATZEN--ST.
GEORGENBERG, AND ITS PILGRIMAGE CHURCH--CASTLE TRATZBERG
--SCHWAZ 281