Chapter XIII: Book II: Anthropogeography (8)

The Pokutian-Bessarabian Plateau embraces a narrow zone of Southeastern Galicia and the Northern Bukowina, as well as the northern part of the Russian Government of Bessarabia. The manner of settling is similar to the Podolian, with large villages and few small cities. Agriculture and wine-growing are the most important occupation of the people; toward the south cattle-raising is becoming of greater importance. Home industry is insignificant, of factory industry there is almost none. In Galician-Pokutye the only cities worthy of mention are Horodenka (11,000 pop.), in a very fertile region, and the old commercial city of Sniatin (12,000 pop.), and in Bukowina-Pokutye the commercial town of Kitzman. In Bessarabia we find, on the Dniester, the former fortress of Khotin (18,000 pop.), memorable for two Turkish battles (1621 and 1673), now a river port and the seat of an active grain and fruit trade, as well as a notorious nest of smugglers. The second Dniester port of Bessarabia, Soroki (15,000 pop.), serves principally the export trade. At some distance from the course of the Dniester lies the insignificant town of Orhüv (13,000 pop.), and the dirty city of Biltzi (19,000 pop.), with a large grain and cattle trade. The capital of Bessarabia, Kishiniv (125,000 pop.), lies outside of the Ukrainian territory.

The Dnieper Plateau is important, not only because of its agriculture, cattle-raising and fruit-culture, but also because of a considerable cultivation of commercial plants, because of a developed home and factory industry, and because of a comparatively lively trade. It is one of the central districts of the Ukraine, with typical conditions of settlement. Large agglomerations of dwellings, picturesquely located, consisting of whitewashed, straw-covered clay huts, lie on the rivers and creeks, usually on wide valley bottoms or slightly inclined valley sides, surrounded and dotted with the fresh green of orchards. On the plateau, which is one great wave of never-ending grain-fields, there lie only a few scattered manors of large landowners, single farmhouses, bee orchards, adjoining little woodlands and groves. The number and size of the cities is not great. The prevailing type is that of the village city—a great village with an area of buildings in the middle, which have a city-like character. The streets are broad and unpaved, the green of the gardens being apparent even in the center of the city. Where the northeastern spurs of the Dnieper Plateau reach the Dnieper River, lies the natural capital of the Ukraine, the former “mother of the Ruthenian cities,” Kiev (506,000 pop.). Its great history finds expression in an enormous number of architectural monuments, especially churches and convents. (Lavra Pecherska, the Church of Sophia, the Church of Andreas, the Tithe Church, the Golden Gate, etc.). Kiev was the capital of the ancient Ukrainian Kingdom and its spiritual center; today it is called the “Ukrainian Jerusalem,” and is visited by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year. Besides its historical importance, Kiev possesses also a great geographical significance. Its picturesque position on the lofty right-hand bank of the Dnieper, which is cut up into beautiful erosive hills, offers great geographical advantages. Here, opposite the Desna outlet, the Dnieper, after receiving its two largest tributaries, completes its transformation into the second largest river of Eastern Europe. The waterways of the Pripet, the upper Dnieper and the Desna here form a junction, the importance of which is heightened by the junction of railroads and highways at the same point; such thorofares have always found in Kiev the most convenient crossing over the Dnieper River into the Western Ukrainian lands. This junction of roads favors the rapidly progressing development of Kiev’s commerce, which concentrates in the “lower city” (Podil) and in its great river harbor. Kiev is the most convenient emporium for the forest and grain regions of the Ukraine, which border on one another here. In the last decades a considerable factory industry has developed in Kiev, embracing all possible branches of industry. Above all, the sugar industry has its center here. Kiev has a Russian University and a technical college. Ukrainian cultural life, which has always had its main headquarters in Kiev, has experienced an unexpected rise here since 1905.

Not far from Kiev, which is an important fortress today, there lie many places of historical significance, among them the convents of Vidubitsky and Mezihirsky. Rzishchiv is a river port with some grain exportation. On the Stuhna lies the old city of Vassilkiv (18,000 pop.), with an insignificant trade, from a modern point of view. At the point where the borders of the Governments of Kiev, Volhynia and Podolia touch, lies Berdichiv, a city of 83,000, inhabited mostly by Jews, after Kiev the most important emporium for cattle and grain in the country. The products of the industry of this place are offered for sale by Jewish peddlers thruout the entire right half of the Ukraine. In the river region of the Ross we find several cities which are local centers of the sugar and alcohol industry: Skvira (16,000 pop.), in a region covered with ancient walls, with pottery and cap manufactures; the old Cossack city of Bila Tserkov (61,000 pop.), famous for the treaty of Khmelnitsky with the Poles (1652), now a lively commercial city, with sugar and machine manufactures; Tarashcha (11,000 pop.), with a considerable wagon industry (the familiar tarantasses are made here). Korsun is noteworthy because of the victory of Khmelnitsky over the Poles (1648). Nearby lie the villages of Kirilivka and Morintzi, the home of the greatest Ukrainian poet, Taras Shevchenko.

The entire plateau zone along the right Dnieper bank is full of old monuments of Ukrainian history, of walls, ancient fortifications, ruins and barrows. Along the Dnieper lie in succession: Trekhtimiriv, Kaniv, Cherkassi, once the most important center of the Ukrainian Cossack organization Near Kaniv, elevated on the lofty right bank of the Dnieper, is the mound of Shevchenko, visited every year by numerous companies of pilgrims of all classes of the Ukrainian nation. Kaniv is now a little town with an insignificant river harbor. Cherkassi (40,000 pop.), on the other hand, thanks to its large river harbor and the railroad which crosses the Dnieper here, has developed into a lively commercial city (wood, iron, sugar and salt trade, lumber and sugar industry). By the example of Cherkassi or Kreminchuk, we are shown how the poor villages and towns on the Dnieper could be developed if cultural conditions were favorable. A fine example of such a neglected town is Chihirin (10,000 pop.), on the Tiasmin, the former residence city of the Ukrainian hetmans. Situated, as tho by a wonderful coincidence, in the center of the present Ukrainian territory, Chihirin is hardly more than a large village, with crooked, muddy streets, a slight lumber and grain trade, remains of the Chumak organization, and an insignificant stonecutters’ trade. In Subotiv, nearby, Khmelnitsky was buried, but his grave was destroyed by the Poles a short time after. At the Tiasmin outlet lies the river port of Kriliv (12,000 pop.), with lumber and cattle trade; further downstream, Verkhnodniprovsk, with an iron industry. At the source of the Inhuletz is Olexandria (14,000 pop.), noteworthy for some milling industry.

On the southwestern and southern border of the Dnieper Plateau, which is really part of the country drained by the Boh, there lie several smaller towns, e.g., Lipovetz, Haisin, Novomirhorod, with some grain and cattle trade. In this respect, Zvenihorodka (17,000 pop.) is of greater importance. Nearby lies Katerinopol, with its lignite mines. Uman (42,000 pop.) is known because of its associations with the Haydamak times, its great park, and its considerable grain trade. The largest city of this strip of borderland, Yelisavet (76,000 pop.), at the source of the Inhul, carries on a considerable trade in grain and wool, and possesses an important factory industry.

The Dnieper Plain, in its northern part, reveals quite a Polissian character. But in the north we note the first differences too—the highly developed home industry and agriculture much more highly developed than in the Polissye region. On the left Desna bank, lumbering declines gradually, and the villages of the Polissian type give way to the typical Ukrainian villages, consisting of neatly whitewashed, straw-covered huts, which lie picturesquely among fruit-gardens. The towns and suburbs here, as in fact everywhere in the left half of the Ukraine, have an entirely rural appearance. The cities have very wide streets and squares. There are very few connected rows of houses, and the single houses are surrounded by gardens and large yards. The Dnieper Plain embraces the greatest part of the Governments of Chernihiv and Poltava, and the northern edge of Katerinoslav.

The chief city of the northern half of the section is Chernihiv (33,000 pop.), an old city, perhaps as ancient as Kiev. It lies at the crossing of the main road leading to Muscovy, across the navigable Desna. In the city and its vicinity we find many historical monuments, churches, walls and barrows; but the present commercial importance of the city is very slight. Konotop (20,000 pop.), surrounded by swamps, and at one time a strong fortress, famous for the victory of the Cossack hetman, Vihovsky, over the Russians (1659), now carries on a considerable commerce, thanks to its railroad junction, and has large peat deposits. Bakhmatch, which lies nearby, is an important railroad junction. On the Sem lies the commercial town of Baturin, the former hetman residence, whose population was completely slaughtered by Menshikov in 1709. Sosnitza, Borsna (12,000 pop.) and Berezna (10,000 pop.) carry on an insignificant grain and cattle trade. On the navigable Oster lies Nizin (52,000 pop.), an old city of the time of the Ukrainian princes, in the 17th Century a Greek colony carrying on a lively trade, later famous for its great annual fairs. Just now the tobacco and grain trade of the city is increasing considerably. There is also a philological academy here. Further downstream, on the Oster, we find two old towns, Koseletz and Oster, with a river harbor and a considerable net industry. On the Trubaylo and on the Alta lies the ancient city of Pereyaslav (15,000 pop.), founded by Volodimir the Great, noteworthy for the victory of the Cossack hetman, Taras Triasilo, over the Poles (1630). Here the unfortunate treaty of 1654 was enacted, joining the Ukraine, which had just been freed from Polish rule, to Russia, as an autonomous vassal state. The once navigable Trubaylo has become shallow, the railroad line has left the city lying to one side and Pereyaslav has lost all significance. Equally insignificant is the adjacent town of Zolotonosha.

In the Sula region, on the verge of the Dnieper Plain, lies Romen (Romni, 33,000 pop.), with annual fairs that are important even today, the center of the judicial district of Romni-Libau, which transports the products of the Ukraine to the distant Baltic ports. Romen has a soap industry and tobacco factories, and here and in the adjacent town of Lokhvitzia, fruit and tobacco culture flourish. The center of Ukrainian tobacco-culture is Priluky (31,000 pop.), on the Udai, which carries on the greatest tobacco trade in all Russia, exporting half a million puds of it annually. On the Udai also lies the old Cossack city of Piriatin, now an important railroad center. Below the outlet of the Udai into the Sula, lies ancient Lubni (10,000 pop.), with its great fruit-gardens and tanneries.

In the region drained by the Psiol, we find on the Khorol, the old Cossack city of Mirhorod (10,000 pop.), so masterfully pictured by Gogol, with its industrial school and its great home industry. Mirhorod was once an important center of the Chumak organization. Not far from it lies the railroad center of Romodan and the antique town of Khorol. Hadyach is noteworthy because of the treaty of the Cossack hetman, Vihovsky, with Poland (1658), which was to join the Ukraine as the third autonomous unit to the Polish-Lithuanian state. Sinkiv (10,000 pop.) is an important center of a versatile home industry; Rashivka, a center of the Prassoli societies; Sorochintzi, the birthplace of Gogol, has grain and cattle markets; Reshetilivka is famous for its sheep-raising and its leather industry. Above the outlet of the Psiol into the Dnieper, lies the chief river port of the region, Kreminchuk (99,000 pop.), an important bridge city, where numerous highways and two railroads cross the navigable Dnieper. Kreminchuk trades, particularly in lumber and grain, is an emporium for lumber, coal and salt, and has machine, tobacco, carriage and leather factories, and large saw-mills. The city is subject to many floods and conflagrations, but is growing constantly. Half of the population is comprised of Jewish merchants and business men. In the spring the population of the city is regularly doubled. On the opposite Dnieper bank lies the river port of Krukiv (10,000 pop.), almost a suburb of Kreminchuk.

In the river region of the Vorskla, on the northeastern boundary of the plain, lies Oposhnia, widely known for its pottery. Farther downstream lies the city of Poltava (83,000 pop.), the chief city of the southern part of the left half of the plain, notable for the unfortunate battle (1709) in which Peter the Great, with Polish help, destroyed the plan of the dashing hetman, Mazeppa, to free the Ukraine from Russian dominion, with the aid of Charles XII. of Sweden. Today Poltava is a rising industrial city, with an important railroad junction and great annual fairs, chiefly for wool and horses. Kobeliaki (12,000 pop.), situated downstream on the Vorskla, has a cloth industry of some dimensions, as has also the district of Konstantinohrad, in the river region of the Orel. On the southeastern border of the plain, where it joins the Pontian plain in the region of the Samara, lie the old Zaporog settlements of Samarchik (Novonoskovsk, 13,000 pop.) and Pavlohrad (41,000 pop.), with a considerable grain trade and a large mill, leather and wax industry.

The spurs of the Central Russian Plateau, which lie within the borders of the Ukrainian national territory offer an almost complete anthropogeographical analogy to the above discussed district. In the north the Polissian character is still apparent. In the south agriculture and home industry are well developed. Traffic is more difficult, because of the greater distance to the navigable Dnieper, but is rather active with the Muscovite country. The left plateau district embraces the northwest frontiers of the Governments of Chernihiv and Poltava, all of the Government of Kharkiv and the adjacent districts of Kursk, Voroniz and Don.

The northernmost town of the Ukraine is Mhlin, with its important annual fairs. In the vicinity lies Pochep, with some textile industry and Klintzi (12,000 pop.), the “Manchester of the Chernihiv country,” with spinning-mills, cloth, leather and metal factories. The inhabitants of nearby Ardon engage in carriage-making, and carry on peddling thruout the entire Ukraine. Considerable industry and trade is carried on also by Novosibkiv (16,000 pop.) and Klimiv. Starodub (13,000 pop.), the old Cossack city, on the other hand, is rich in historical reminiscences. The ancient town of Novhorod Siversky, on the Desna, and Korop, downstream, are insignificant today. Kluhiv (15,000 pop.) carries on a considerable grain trade. In the vicinity lies Shostka, with a powder factory which supplies all the powder factories of Russia with salpeter. Krolevetz (10,000 pop.) still has important annual fairs, the old town of Putivl some trade in grain and flax, Bilopilye (15,000 pop.), important annual fairs and a great grain trade. In the country about the source of the Sula lies Nedrihailiv; at the source of the Psiol is Sudza (13,000 pop.), with a large grain, honey and fruit trade. Miropilye (11,000 pop.), has an important shoe industry, Sumi (52,000 pop.), situated at a railroad junction, has an important factory industry (especially sugar factories) and important annual fairs. The old Cossack city of Lebedin (14,000 pop.), famous because of the atrocities of Menshikov (1708), now carries on a considerable grain trade.

In the region of the source of the Vorskla lies the town of Hraivoron, downstream Okhtirka (32,000 pop.), a much frequented place of pilgrimage, with considerable fruit-culture and lumber, fur, shoe, pottery and milling industries. Considerable fruit-culture is carried on also by Bohodukhiv.

The farther part of the left plateau lies in the region drained by the Don. On the small rivers, Kharkiv and Lopan, lies the capital of the region, Kharkiv (248,000 pop.). Founded as a Cossack hamlet in the 17th Century, Kharkiv has grown very rapidly, thanks to its geographical position at a convenient crossing point from the Dnieper region into the Don region, between the interior and the sea. Here was once a crossing of Chumak roads, and is now a railroad junction. Hence the importance of Kharkiv lies in commerce. Four great fairs, whose business still amounts to 80 million rubles a year, on an average, are especially important for trade in grain, horned cattle, horses, wool and manufactures. Besides, Kharkiv has a considerable factory industry (linen, cloth, soap, candle, sugar, alcohol, tobacco, brick, ceramic, machine, boiler and bell factories). Kharkiv is the seat of a Russian University, and one of the chief centers of Ukrainian cultural life.

In the east of the Donetz course lie several small cities, e.g., Zolochiv, with its annual fairs; Valki, with a considerable home industry and large fruit-gardens. In the country about the source of the Donetz, on the border of the Ukraine, lies Bilhorod (22,000 pop.), a commercial city with a woolen industry. Downstream, on the Donetz, lie Vovchansk (11,000 pop.), Chuhuyiv (13,000 pop.) and Smiiv. Korocha (14,000 pop.) carries on grain, cattle and fruit trade in its annual fairs, and has some industry (oil-pressing, alcohol-distillation, and albumen manufacture). On the Oskol lie the following: Stari-Oskol (17,000 pop.), with a considerable trade and with a leather, wax, mead and tobacco industry; the insignificant town of Novi-Oskol, Valuiki, Urasova (13,000 pop.), with grain trade, tanneries and rope factories; Kupiansk at a railroad junction. On the Tikha Sosna lies Biriuch (13,000 pop.), with annual fairs and oil factories, Olexiyivka, known for sunflower-culture and painters’ guilds, and Ostrohorsk (22,000 pop.), with a large grain, cattle and bacon trade, and soap, wax and tobacco industry, once a center of the fish trade. Starobilsk (13,000 pop.) has lively annual fairs.

On the Don, within the province of the plateau, there are no larger cities. Korotoiak (10,000 pop.) carries on an active trade, Pavlovsk has soap factories, fat-extraction and oil-presses, and is an important river-port, from which the regular Don navigation begins. Altogether, on the eastern border country of the Ukraine, there are no larger cities or even towns. Only a few isolated large villages gain greater significance thru their markets and industry. One of these is the largest village of the Ukraine: Buturlinivka (38,000 pop.), with important annual fairs, with brick-kilns, tanneries, alcohol-stills, as well as very considerable furriery and shoemaking.

The Donetz Plateau is, from an anthropogeographical point of view, a very remarkable country, which has its closest analogy in the North American mining districts. Only the northern edge of the country on the Donetz has an appearance analogous to the adjacent Kharkiv country, with large, typically Ukrainian villages and village-towns. All the remaining region of the Donetz Plateau is a naked steppe. Here and there factory chimneys, isolated or in groups, rise, surrounded by factory buildings and laborers’ huts. The settlements come into existence and grow with true American speed. The Donetz Plateau embraces parts of the Governments of Kharkiv, Katerinoslav and Don.

One of the farthest advance guards of the typical Ukrainian settlements is Isium (23,000 pop.), on the Donetz, one of the chief centers of the pottery industry. Slaviansk, once Tor (20,000 pop.), on the Torez, has large salt mines and salt lakes, with bathing pavilions, which draw many guests in the summer, large salt-works and a number of mills, porcelain and metal industries. Besides, Slaviansk has important horse-markets. Nearby, on the chalk-cliffs of the Donetz, lies the famous convent of the Holy Mountains. On the eastern border of the Ukraine, on the Donetz, lies the river port of Kamenske (51,000 pop.), with a great grain trade and glass-works.

In the mining and factory district of the Donetz Plateau there lie, besides innumerable small industrial towns, a number of more important centers. Luhan (60,000 pop.) has a large metallurgical industry with foundries and hammer-works, machine-factories, numerous alcohol-stills, breweries, tanneries, soap and tile factories. Bakhmut (33,000 pop.) has large salt mines and salt-works and considerable trade; the adjacent town of Mikitivka, mercury and coal mines. Yusivka (49,000 pop.) is the chief center of the coal mines, iron and steel factories; Hrushivka (46,000 pop.) the center of the anthracite mines.

The Pontian Plain gives us an anthropogeographical picture which is different from that of the thus far described sections of the Ukraine. Here, in the newly settled steppe region, the type of the Ukrainian settlements gradually disappears. The Ukrainian type of the large villages remains, to be sure, but these villages are, by their position, dependent upon the water as well as other conditions of a practical nature, such as roads, mines, etc., which tempt a great number of people to settle in the district. The huts here and there bear the marks of provisional buildings, are not always whitewashed, are covered with reeds, and in some places even earthen huts have been preserved. As a rule, however, the typical Ukrainian whitewashed and straw-covered clay hut advances farther and farther, and is sometimes even prettier and better equipped here than in Northern Ukraine, thanks to the greater prosperity of the peasant. In the last few years more and more brick houses have been built, covered with tiles. Extensive steppe agriculture and steppe cattle-raising have, to this time, been the chief occupation; on the coast, salt-extraction and navigation. Typical Ukrainian towns are rare here, but in the once wild steppes, on the other hand, large commercial and industrial cities have shot up, which possess a much more European appearance than the Russian cities. Almost all these cities lie on the sea, or at the river outlets. The Pontian Plain embraces the southern parts of Bessarabia, Kherson, Katerinoslav, the mainland part of Tauria, the southwestern part of the Don region and the northern part of the Kuban region.

On the Kilia arm of the Danube delta lie the following important river ports, at the same time the centers of the Danube trade and of the sea-fishing industry: Ismail (36,000 pop.), Kilia (12,000 pop.) and Vilkiv. Akerman (40,000 pop.), on the Dniester liman, rich in historical memories, is an important harbor for smaller ships, and carries on a considerable salt, fish, bacon and woolen trade. On the lower course of the Dniester lie the river ports of Dubosari (13,000 pop.), located in the midst of vineyards and fruit-gardens and tobacco fields, with a considerable tobacco, wine, cattle and grain trade; Benderi (60,000 pop.), a strong fortress with a considerable trade, surrounded by fruit-gardens, vineyards and melon-patches and Teraspol (32,000 pop.) with a large grain trade. Here the goods shipped down the Dniester are unloaded, to be sent by rail to Odessa.

Odessa (620,000 pop.), the largest city and the most important port of the Ukraine, is situated 32 kilometers north of the Dniester outlet, and opposite the Dnieper liman, on a deep but open roadstead. By means of expensive constructions, the unprotected harbor of Odessa was considerably improved. It now has six protected harbor basins for ships. In some winters the harbor does not freeze over, at other times remaining frozen from 31 to 67 days, but then it can be kept open without difficulty by ice-breakers. The city itself is built up on the high and naked steppe plain, where orchards can be planted and taken care of only with the greatest difficulty. The city has an entirely European appearance, with broad, straight streets and fine houses. There are almost no historic landmarks in Odessa, since it was founded as late as 1794. The city grew very rapidly, especially in its free-harbor period (1817–1859). Today Odessa is the most important seaport of the Russian Empire, after St. Petersburg, and even surpasses the latter in exports. The exports from Odessa are made up chiefly of grain, also cattle, wood, sugar, fishing products, fats and alcohol. These exports go to England, Germany, France, Italy, Holland, Belgium and the far east. The imports of Odessa are disproportionately smaller than the exports, and are made up chiefly of coal, rice, tropical fruits, tea, etc., the benefit of which goes mostly to the cities of Central Russia. Outside of this commercial activity, which is directed by the stock exchange and the numerous banks, Odessa also possesses a well-developed factory industry (mills, sugar, oil, macaroni, canned-goods, alcohol, metal, ceramic, and chemical factories). About the year 1900, the annual productive value was 70 million rubles. Odessa is also a university city, and one of the intellectual centers of the Ukraine. In the vicinity of Odessa are the famous limans of Kuyalnik and Khadzybei, with their sanatoriums.

On the Boh, at the point where the river becomes navigable, lies Vosnesensk, an important river port, with some industry and considerable wood and grain trade. On the deep Boh liman, at the mouth of the Inhul, lies Mikolaiv (103,000 pop.), a very important naval and commercial harbor, which has the greatest exportation of grain, after Odessa, and large shipyards, foundries and machine-shops. Krivi Rih (15,000 pop.), on the Inhul, has 33 iron mines, and is the center of Ukrainian iron mining.

On the Dnieper, on the border of the Pontian and Dnieper Plains, lies the city of Katerinoslav (218,000 pop.), hardly more than a century old. Katerinoslav owes its great importance to its position on the Dnieper at the beginning of the rapids section, and at the end of the upper steamboat navigation, where an important railroad line crosses the river, connecting the iron mines of Krivi Rih with the coal fields on the Donetz. Hence, Katerinoslav is, above all, an industrial city with large foundries, forges and machine shops. Katerinoslav carries on the greatest lumber trade in the entire Ukraine. Its grain and coal trade is very important too. Below the rapids, in the old Zaporog country, sacred to every Ukrainian, lies the rapidly rising city of Olexandrivsk (51,000 pop.), an important river port and railroad junction, with a metal and milling industry. Nikopol (17,000 pop.), the point of crossing of the old commercial road over the Dnieper into Crimea, is the center for manganese mining, and has some milling industry. Its harbor is exceptional in that it is reached by smaller sea-vessels, which, however, sail up the Dnieper only as far as Berislav (12,000 pop.), where the grain is transferred from river boats to sea-vessels. On the left Dnieper bank, opposite Berislav, lies the important river harbor of Kakhivka. Oleshki has considerable vegetable, fruit and melon-culture, fishing and crab-fishing.

Not far from the outlet of the Dnieper into its liman, lies the government capital, Kherson (92,000 pop.), like Odessa, Mikolaiv and Katerinoslav, a young city of the end of the 18th Century. Its harbor was first made accessible to large sea-vessels by the dredging of the ship-canal of Otshakiv in the Dnieper liman (1887), and since then the city has been growing rapidly. Kherson carries on a very important lumber and grain trade, and has large saw-mills, grain-mills, soap and tobacco factories. Two fortresses defend the entrance to the Dnieper liman, Ochakiv (12,000 pop.), with an insignificant harbor for coast vessels, and Kinburn.

In the narrow strip of low country on the north shore of the Black Sea, all the larger cities keep close to the coast. Melitopol on the Molochna (17,000 pop.), carries on considerable trade in cattle, lumber, skins, eggs and wool, and has large mills, alcohol-stills and factories, which make agricultural machinery. Berdiansk (36,000 pop.), despite its poor harbor, exports much grain, and has machine factories, mills, breweries, and fine fruit gardens and vineyards. The former great importance of Berdiansk has been inherited by Mariupol (53,000 pop.), with a good harbor at the mouth of the Kalmius, a city which possesses some factory industry, and carries on an active export trade in coal, coke, metal and grain. Still more important are the harbors at the mouths of the Don. Opposite the Don delta lies Tahanroh (75,000 pop.) with a leather and metal industry, as well as an extensive trade in grain, fish, beef, oil, bacon, leather and fruit, the most important grain exporting harbor of the Ukraine, after Odessa and Mikolaiv. In the Don delta lies Rostiv (172,000 pop.), the most important commercial city of Southeastern Ukraine, with an extensive trade in grain, cattle, wool and flax, large mills, shipyards, tobacco and machine factories. The Armenian city of Nakhichevan (71,000 pop.) forms the suburbs, as it were, of Rostiv, taking considerable part in its industrial and commercial activity. The historically memorable city of Osiv (Azof, 31,000 pop.) is an important center of the Don and Azof fishing industry, and has some grain trade. Yesk (51,000 pop.), on the eastern shore of the Sea of Azof, has some grain export, and is a not insignificant importing city.

The mountains and hill country of the Crimea are not properly a part of the Ukrainian territory, altho the Ukrainian element flows into the villages and cities of the land in an uninterrupted stream, while the Mohammedan Tartar population emigrates to Turkey. In the northern part of the Crimean peninsula, the economic and settlement conditions are the same as in the Pontian lowland. There is an especially important cattle-raising industry. In the southern, mountainous part of the peninsula, agriculture and cattle-raising lose their predominating importance, and fruit, wine and vegetable-cultivation, navigation and salt-making, which flourishes along almost the entire coast of the Crimea, comprise the chief occupations of the population. The chief center of salt-manufacture lies on the salt lakes and limans of Eupatoria (30,000 pop.), where also famous sanatoriums are located. In the northern foothills of the Yaila lies the ancient capital of the Khans, Bakchisarai (13,000 pop.), which has entirely preserved its oriental character, as well as the new capital of Tauria, Simferopol (71,000 pop.), the center of the fruit and wine-culture and of important fruit-canning factories. An extensive fruit trade is carried on also by Karasubazar (15,000 pop.).

At the gates of the Crimean Riviera is the city of Sevastopol (77,000 pop.), world renowned since the Crimean War, a great sea-fortress and the strongest naval port of the Russian Empire in Europe. The commercial harbor of the city has been without importance for the last twelve years. In the vicinity, on a beautiful bay, lies Belklava, known for its fisheries. On the southern coast is the following chain of watering-places and summer-resorts: Alupka, Livadia, Yalta (23,000 pop.), Orianda, Alushta, Hursuf. In the summer patients and vacationists come here from all the cities of Russia, and the Riviera of Crimea is also growing continually in importance as a winter resort.

On the eastern spurs of the Crimean peninsula lie two large cities. Feodosia (formerly Kaffa, 40,000 pop.) is the largest commercial port of Crimea, with a considerable grain and fruit export. Kerch (57,000 pop.) also has a commercial port, used especially by large ships, which must avoid the shallow Sea of Azof, but the city derives a much greater importance from its extensive fishing industry, its fish-canning and milling industry, and in recent years its metallurgical industry, which exploits the large mineral deposits of the region.

The sub-Caucasus country of Kuban, colonized a century ago by the posterity of the Zaporogs, offers, in its western part, an anthropogeographical picture quite analogous to the other central regions of the ancient Ukraine. It is actually a piece of the old Ukraine, transplanted to the foot of the Caucasus Mountains, with its large villages, farms (khutori), its important agriculture and extensive cattle-raising. Fishing, lumbering and hunting play an important part in its economic life, besides fruit and wine-culture. The mining industry is showing great promise.

The eastern and southern part of the sub-Caucasus country, which, besides parts of Kuban, embraces also parts of the Government of Stavropol and of the Black Sea and Terek regions, is a land newly settled by the Ukrainians, and has a still imperfect anthropogeographical type.

The center of the land and of the Ukrainian cultural life is Katerinodar (100,000 pop.) on the Kuban, the capital of the Kuban Cossacks. It carries on an active trade in agricultural products. The main port of the region is the rising city of Novorossysk (61,000 pop.), with a large grain, wool and petroleum export. Temriuk, in the Kuban delta, also exports much grain. On the Bila lies the commercial city of Maikop (49,000 pop.); on the Luba, Labinsk (33,000 pop.), both important for the exchange of products of the plains and the mountains. On the Stavropol Plateau lies Stavropol (61,000 pop.), with an important grain and cattle trade, Praskoveya (11,000 pop.), with considerable wine-culture, and Olexandrivsk (10,000 pop.). At the foot of the mountain range lies the renowned mineral spring region around the commercial city of Piatihorsk (32,000 pop.).

LIST OF BOOKS ON THE UKRAINE

I. GENERAL WORKS. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY

Atlas Climatologique de l’empire de la Russie. Petersburg 1900 (Russian).

Atlas geologiczny Galicyi. Cracow 1882 ff. (Polish).

Beauplan. Description de l’Ukraine. Rouen 1660.

Bonmariage. La Russie d’Europe. Brussels 1903.

Brockhaus-Efron. Enciklopedícheski Slavar. Petersburg, 1st ed. beginning 1890. 2nd ed. in course of publication.

Carte géologique internationale de l’Europe. Berlin. D IV, D V, E IV, E V, F IV, F V.

Dokutchaev. The Russian Steppes. Petersburg 1893.

Encyklopedia Polska. Vol. I, Cracow 1912. (Polish).

Friederichsen. Methodischer Atlas zur vergleichenden Länderkunde von Europa. Part I, Hannover 1914.

Guide des excursions du VII Congrès géologique internationale. Petersburg 1897.

Geologícheski Komityét. Carte géologique générale. Petersburg 1897 ff.

Karpinsky. Übersicht der phys.-geogr. Verhältnisse Russlands während der verflossenen geologischen Perioden. Beiträge zur Kenntnis des russischen Reichs. 1887.

—— Sur les mouvements de l’écorce terrestre dans la Russie d’Europe. Annales de Géographie. 1895–6.

Kehnert & Habenicht. Map of Russia (Scale: 1–3,700,000) in Stieler’s Handatlas. No. 46, 47, 48, 49.

Kohl. Reisen in Südrussland. Berlin 1841.

Krassnov-Voyeykov. Russland (In: Kirchhoff’s Länderkunde von Europa, Vol. III, Leipzig 1907).

Krassnov. Travyánye styépi syévyernavo polysháryia. Moscow 1894. (Russian).

Murchison, de Verneuil, Keyserling. Geology of Russia. Petersburg 1846.

Österreichisch-ungarische Monarchie in Wort und Bild. Wien 1877 ff. Übersichtsband. Galizien, Bukowina.

Philippson. Landeskunde des europäischen Russlands nebst Finnlands. Leipzig 1908.

—— Geographische Reiseskizzen aus Russland. Zeitschrift der Gesellschaft für Erdkunde. Berlin 1898.

Reclus. Nouvelle géographie universelle. Vol. V. Paris 1876. Russian translation with supplementary volume. Petersburg 1884.

Rehmann. Ziemie davnej Polski. I, II. Lemberg 1895, 1904. (Polish).

Rossíya, yeyá nastoyáshcheye i proshédsheye. A volume consisting of articles collected from Brockhaus-Efron. Petersburg 1900 (Russian).

Rudnitsky. Korotka geografia Ukrainy. I, II. Lemberg, Kieff. (Ukrainian).

—— Der östliche Kriegsschauplatz. Jena 1915.

Sibirtseff. Etude des sols de la Russie. Petersburg 1897.

—— Pochvénnaya karta evropéiskoi Rossíyi. Scale: 1–2,520,000. Petersburg 1902.

Siemiradzki. Geologia ziempolskich. Lemberg I. 1903, II. 1909. (Polish).

Semyonov. Rossíya. Pólnoye geogr. opisánye atyéchestva, 22 vols. Petersburg 1899 ff. Vol. II, VII, IX, XIV. (Russian).

Suess. Antlitz der Erde. Bd. I–III. Wien, Leipzig 1883–1909.

Tanfilyev. Die Waldgrenzen in Südrussland. Petersburg 1894. (Russian, with a résumé in German).

Tillo. Gipsometrícheskaya kárta yevropéiskoi Rossíyi. 1st ed. Petersburg 1889, 1:2,520,000. 2nd ed. Petersburg 1896, 1:1,680,000.

Uhlig. Bau und Bild der Karpathen. Wien 1903.

PERIODICALS

Izvéstya Imp. rússkavo geograficheskavo óbshchestva. Petersburg 1865 ff. (Russian).

Izvéstya geologicheskavo komityéta. Petersburg 1882 ff. (Russian).

Kosmos. Lemberg 1875 ff. (Polish).

The Zapiski (Transactions) of the Russian universities and learned societies of Kieff, Kharkov, Odessa, Warsaw, Moscow, Petersburg, etc. (Russian).

Sbirnyk mat.-pryr. nauk Tovarystva im. Shevchenka. 15 vols. Lemberg 1897 ff. (Ukrainian).

Trúdy geologícheskavo komityéta. Petersburg 1883 ff.

Zyemlevyedyénye. Moscow 1894 ff.

II. ANTHROPOLOGY AND OTHER AUXILIARY SCIENCES

Aitoff. Carte de l’extension du peuple ukrainien. Paris 1906.

Akademya naúk imperatórskaya. Ob atmyénye styessnényi malorússkavo yazyká. Petersburg 1905. (Russian).

Andree. Die Ruthenen. Globus 1870.

Annales des nationalités. Paris 1913. No. 3 and 4.

Antonovych. Try natsionalni typy. Pravda 1878 (Ukrainian). German translation in Ukrainische Rundschau. Jahrgang V.

—— Monográfiyi po istóryi západnoi i yúgozápadnoi Rossiyi. I. Kieff 1885. (Russian).

Antonovych i Drahomaniv. Istoricheskiya pyessni malorusskavo naroda. I, II. Kieff 1874–5.

Bedwin Sands. The Ukraine. London 1914.

Bodenstedt. Die poetische Ukraine. Frankfurt a. M. 1845.

Czoernig. Ethnographie der österreichischen Monarchie. I–III. Wien 1855–57.

—— Ethnographische Karte der österreichischen Monarchie. Wien 1855.

Drahomanov. Politícheskaya sochinyényia. I, II. Paris 1905–6. I. Moscow 1908. (Russian).

Engel. Geschichte der Ukraine. Halle 1796.

Evarnitzky. Istóriya zaporózhskikh kazákov. I–III. Petersburg 1892–97. (Russian).

Goebel. Russische Industrie. Berlin 1913.

Haxthausen. Studien über die inneren Zustande Russlands usw. I–III. Berlin 1847–52.

Hettner. Das europäische Russland. Leipzig 1905.

Hoetzsch. Russland. Berlin 1913.

Hrushevsky. Geschichte des ukrainischen Volkes. Leipzig 1906.

—— Ócherk istóryi ukraínskavo naróda. Petersburg. 3rd ed. 1911. (Russian).

—— Ilustrovana istorya Ukrainy. Kieff 1911. (Ukrainian).

—— Die ukrainische Frage in historischer Entwicklung. Wien 1915.

Ivanovsky. Ob antropologícheskom sostávye nasyelyénya Rossíyi. Trudy antr. otdyel óbshchestva liubítelyei yestyéstvoznánya. Vol. CV (XXII). Moscow 1904. (Russian).

K. Die Hauptstämme der Russen. Karte 1:3,700,000. Petermanns Mitteilungen. 1878.

Ko-yi. Natsionalno-teritorialni mezhi Ukrainy. Lit. nauk. Vistnyk 1907. (Ukrainian).

Kostomarov. Dvyé rússkiya naródnosti. Petersburg 1863. (Russian). French translation in Revue ukrainienne. Lausanne 1915.

—— Sobránie sochinyénye. Petersburg I–VIII, 1903–6. (Russian).

Kovalevsky. Die Produktivkräfte Russlands. Leipzig 1898.

—— L’Agriculture en Russie. Paris 1897.

—— La Russie à la fin du XIX siecle. Paris 1900.

Leroy-Beaulieu. L’Empire des Tsars. I–III. Paris 1881.

Lipinski. Zdziejow Ukrainy. Cracow 1912. (Polish).

Machat. Le développement économique de la Russie. Paris 1902.

Melnik. Russen über Russland. Frankfurt a. M. 1906.

Myezhov. Literatúra rússkoi geográfiyi, etnográfiyi, statístiki. Petersburg, 9 vols. closing 1880. (Russian).

Pypin. Istóriya rússkoi etnográfiyi. III. Petersburg 1891. (Russian).

Pabst. Der Ausbau der russischen Seehandelshäfen. Weltverkehr und Weltwirtschaft. 1914–15.

Rambaud. La petite Russie, etc. La Russie épique. Paris 1876. (Revue politique et littéraire).

Recensement général de l’Empire. 1897. Óbshchi svod po impériyi etc. Petersburg 1905. (Russian).

Rittich. Ethnographie des russischen Reichs. Karte 1:3,700,000. Petermanns Mitteilungen. Ergänzungsheft 54. 1878.

—— Etnografícheskaya kárta yevrop. Rossíyi 1:2,520,000. Petersburg 1875. (Russian).

Rudnitsky. Ukraina und die Ukrainer. Wien 1914. 2nd ed. Berlin 1915.

Russov. Kárta razselyénya ukraínskavo naróda. Ukraínski vyéstnik 1906. (Russian).

Russ’ka istorychna biblioteka. Vols. I–XXIV. Lemberg 1886–1904. (Ukrainian).

Stockyj-Gartner. Grammatik der ruthenisch-ukrainischen Sprache. Wien 1913.

Schulze-Gävernitz. Volkswirtschaftliche Studien aus Russland. Leipzig 1899.

Statistícheski yezhegódnik. Petersburg, beginning in 1912. (Russian).

Supan. Ergebnisse der Sprachenzählung im russischen Reiche 1897. Petermanns Mitteilungen 1905.

—— Die Bevölkerung der Erde. XIII. Petermanns Mitteilungen. Ergänzungsheft 163. 1909.

Tomashivsky. Etnografichna karta uhorskoi rusy. 1:300,000. Petersburg 1910. (Ukrainian).

Tomashivsky. Die weltpolitische Bedeutung Galiziens. München 1915.

Trúdy etn.-stat. ekspedítsiyi v západno russkyí krai I, II, IV, VI, VII. Petersburg 1872–78. (Russian, with Ukrainian language texts).

Ukraínsky naród v yevó próshlom i nastoyáshchem. Vol. I. Petersburg 1914.

Ukraínsky voprós. Izdánye red. zhurnála Ukraínskaya Zhizñ. Petersburg 1915.

Velitchko. Narodopysna karta ukrainskoho narodu. 1:370,000. Lemberg 1896. (Ukrainian).

Vovk. Antropometrichni doslidy ukrainskoho naselenya etc. Lemberg 1908. (Ukrainian).

Wallace. Russia. London 1912.

Zepelin. Die Küsten und Häfen des russischen Reiches. Berlin.

Zherela do istoriyi Ukrainy. I–XII. Lemberg 1895–1911.

PERIODICALS

Etnografichni Sbirnyk. Lemberg, beginning 1895. 30 vols. (Ukrainian).

Kieffskaya Starina. Kieff. 1882–1905. (Russian).

Literaturno-naukovy vistnyk. Lemberg, Kieff, beginning 1898. 17 vols. (Ukrainian).

Materialy do ukrainskoyi etnologiyi. Lemberg, beginning 1899. 13 vols (Ukrainian).

Ruthenische Revue. Wien 1903–5.

Sbirnyk ist. fil. sektsyi nauk. Tov. im. Shevchenka. Lemberg, beginning 1897. 14 vols. (Ukrainian).

Sbirnyk filol. sektsyi nauk. Tov. im. Shevchenka. Lemberg, beginning 1898 13 vols. (Ukrainian).

Studiyi s polya suspilnykh nauk i statystyky. Lemberg, beginning 1909. (Ukrainian).

Ukrainische Rundschau. Wien, beginning 1906.

Ukrainskaya Zhizñ. Moscow, beginning 1912. (Russian).

Yefimenko. Istóriya ukrainskavo naróda. Petersburg 1906. (Russian),

Yefremov. Istoriya ukrainskoho pysmenstva. Petersburg, beginning 1911. (Ukrainian).

Yezhegodnik Rossiyi. (Annuaire de la Russie). Petersburg, beginning 1904.

Zapisky naukovoho tovarystva imeny Shevchenka. Lemberg, beginning 1891. 120 vols. (Ukrainian).

Zapisky ukrainskoho naukovoho tovarystva v Kyivi. Kieff, beginning 1908. (Ukrainian).

NOTE

[1] 1 crown (1 krone) = 20 cents (U. S. A.)