Chapter IV: Appendix (3)

Other regiments now volleyed and charged, as is usual in battles, and the enemy’s left being totally routed, Regnier redoubled his efforts to make an impression with his right, but with no better success. Neither cavalry nor infantry could make the smallest impression in front.

The cavalry now made a rapid movement to turn our left flank, which was unprotected; but at this critical moment the 20th Regiment, which had just landed, led by the gallant Colonel Ross, advanced in such a manner, and so skilfully availing itself of the advantages of cover which the ground afforded, that the cavalry were compelled to go to the right-about under a galling fire.

The victory was now decided, the enemy flying with the utmost precipitation. But as we had no cavalry, he was enabled, with those regiments which had less entirely committed themselves, to preserve some order in his retreat.

The slaughter on the side of the enemy was immense, indeed hardly credible when compared to the smallness of our loss. In killed, wounded, and taken, the French loss has been estimated at more than 3000, while our total loss exactly amounts to as many hundreds, our killed amounting to 40 privates and 1 officer, while 700 Frenchmen were buried on the field. A French general (Compère), severely wounded, is amongst the prisoners. He led the enemy on to the charge with an _acharnement_ that seemed like individual hate, and on being taken he rode with his shattered arm through our ranks, menacing with the action of his other arm, and cursing and swearing with the most voluble bitterness.

Another prisoner said, “Ma foi! they told us the English were fish that could only fight by sea, and knew nothing of the matter by land.”

An officer asked him “What he thought now?”

“Oh, now,” said he, “it’s quite another thing.”

Surely this must be considered a brilliant victory when the disparity of numbers is taken into account, and it is the more gratifying to us because Regnier stands so high in reputation, and also because one of these French fellows had formerly spoken very slightingly of the talents of our gallant little General.

After having advanced some miles in pursuit of the enemy, our army resumed the position of the morning.

The action began at half-past eight, and the firing ceased at eleven on the 4th of July.

_July 5._--The army after so severe an exertion formed a sort of camp of rest about a mile from the field of battle, and near the sea, so as to have an easy communication with the fleet.[7]

Tents were established for the convenience of the officers, and all the wounded were comfortably accommodated on board, while whatever could contribute to the comfort of the troops was brought to them on shore.

After a short refreshment of this kind, the army advanced to Maida, and there took possession of some French stores.

Having increased its distance from the sea, all the comforts of camp equipage were abandoned, and we now bivouacked in the open fields, and shared in all respects the fare of the private soldiers. Our mess of raw meat was delivered to us in the same proportion as theirs; our camp kettle hung gipsy-like over a fire of sticks, and each officer’s cloak and blanket spread upon the ground served him for a bed and his valise for a pillow, where he lay with his sword by his side and his spurs on his heels, while his horse was picketed close at hand. In the morning I went to some rivulet or spring with shaving tackle and brush in my pocket, and sat down beside it, to lather and brush and scrape uncomfortably enough.

This was a fine climate and a fine season, and that mode of lodging on the bare ground had nothing in it really formidable to youthful strength and spirits, but I never thought it agreeable; and by far the worst night I spent was one in which we had all endeavoured to be a little more comfortable by making huts of branches of trees, and beds of the new-cut corn. An unhandy Sicilian, who acted as my squire of the body, had undertaken to make “my Excellency” a superb “camera frondosa.” Nothing could be worse. A few ill-arranged and ill-supported branches to shade my head only, and over these a loose thatch of wheat. I had made my own bed of golden flax, but he assured me this generated a malaria, and made me change it for bearded wheat. I no sooner lay down than every bearded ear, as if endued with life and motion, began to work itself into my pantaloons, which for coolness were of the dark blue Sicilian web silk, then worn by all our officers. Soon the discomfort this occasioned was increased by the changeful night.

My Dominico, the unhandy, had made the mouth of my little canopy to face the seaward wind, which now blew rudely upon me, drifting in all insects of nocturnal wing, especially the large, cold, chaffy locusts, with which the country was so covered that your horse kicked them up like dust under his feet. Awkward, ill-guided creatures, as big as one’s thumb, that when they got upon one did not know how to get away again.

My under-lip, like that of all the officers, was almost cleft in two by the effect of sun and night air, so that to laugh or smile brought tears into one’s eyes, and every time the wind dashed a locust against my face I gave myself a slap on the chops that stung my poor lip to distraction. Then it began to rain like the deuce, and soon giving weight to the wheat at top, the branches could no longer support it, so down it all came, wet bearded corn, branches and insects, all at once on my face.

I was extremely glad when this memorable night was over, and ere earliest dawn the signal for awaking sounded through the leafy roofs under which the army had that night reposed. At two o’clock I was busy in preparing my horse for his march, caring little now for the ill construction of my hut or all the disasters of the night.

The enemy, who had advanced to meet us from the south, having immediately after the battle retreated northwards to Catanzaro, instead of attempting to cover the country whence he came, it was plain that he no longer thought of defending Lower Calabria, which province with its garrisons he thus abandoned to his victorious adversary. Sir John Stuart was strongly minded to pursue these extraordinary advantages, and with his small unassisted army (for there was no indication of a national rising) to drive the French still further to the north, and increase the extent of his footing in the kingdom of Naples. There was certainly more gallantry than prudence about this idea; for when the interests which depend on this little army are considered, the importance of the Island of Sicily at this moment, and our trifling numbers for territorial occupation, there can be no doubt that those about the General, who prevailed with him to be satisfied with the conquest of the province[8] almost touching this important island, with whose safety he was entrusted, did better service by their counsels than they could at that time have rendered by their swords.

Of this number, I believe, was his Quartermaster-General, a young man of great acquirement and high military promise; and certainly not the least influential of them was our own Commandant[9] of the Royal Engineers, whose vigorous and strong professional opinion certainly had great influence, for the Quartermaster-General in reference to it used these emphatic words, “It has succeeded.” It was in conformity with the decision produced by these counsels that the Headquarters had moved to Monte Leone, and the General was now disposed to content himself with placing the province of Lower Calabria upon such a footing of military occupation as would delay its reoccupation even by a very superior force, and ensure to us for a considerable time both shores of the Straits of Messina.

Most of the ports to the southward of Monte Leone were so inconsiderable as to surrender on the first appearance of a military force or of a ship of war. But the port which by its position was by far the most important (viz. the castle, strongly built upon the rock of Scylla) was in a good state of defence, impregnable to assault, fully garrisoned, and commanded by the chief engineer of Regnier’s army; so as might have been expected, the commandant had treated the Admiral’s summons to surrender with contempt. It was necessary, therefore, to march against the place. And when the commander of the brigade which sat down before it gave a more serious summons, the Frenchman answered that before he could surrender he must at least see the means by which he could be reduced, meaning without doubt _heavy artillery, so placed as to batter him in breach_.

It became necessary therefore to attack this castle by a regular siege, and the army on the 12th of July began its march at four o’clock in the morning. It had not proceeded many miles before I, being then about fifty miles distant, received an order from my Commandant to repair to the siege also. So I set forward alone.

The road lies over bold mountains, and is so intricate and devious that I lost my way and greatly lengthened my ride; but having traversed the promontory of Tropea, the route is then more certain and confirmed--keeping still indeed over mountains, but having the near-sounding sea as a general guide, sometimes showing itself through the cleft of two mountain peaks, and sending up the report of every gun fired on its surface multiplied by the muffled echoes of the mountains.

After riding about fifty miles, the incessant sound of guns advertised me of my approach to the scene of action, and soon, by one of those dangerous paths whereon a horse moves with difficulty, and a stumble would precipitate both horse and rider many hundred feet, I descended to the small marine town of Scylla (bounded to the south by the peninsular rock on which the besieged castle stood), and saw on its highest tower (in spite of its investment by sea and land) the tricolour flag flying.

The rock on which the castle stands seems, as it were, shoved out a considerable way into the sea by the low and narrow isthmus which ties it to the shore, and from this isthmus it rears itself suddenly in the midst of the waves.

Before the castle was built this spot was probably an inaccessible peak of naked rock; the top, however, has been blown away to afford space for military occupation, leaving height enough to afford a formidable scarp of natural rock towards the land as the basement of the artificial rampart; towards the sea, an abrupt precipitous cliff, inaccessible to man, descends perpendicularly into the deep water.

The fort constructed upon the table of this peninsular rock was, up to a certain point, admirably adapted for security and strength. But that abrupt and lonely precipitousness of inaccessible circuit, which to the unlearned eye presented so imposing a picture of invulnerable strength, was in fact the radical defect of the position, which made it impossible to secure it against the means and measures of modern war. The great strength of modern fortification consists certainly in the glacis, or in that smoothly sloping mound which conceals and covers the rampart to the very chin, yet is severed from it by a deep and impassable ditch, screening it from every injury, even by the heaviest and most numerous ordnance, whilst its own gradual slope is swept by a rain and hail of cannon-balls, grape shot, and musketry, both from its own parapet and that of the superior rampart. But to construct this, ample space is necessary, and consequently for a rocky peak like Scylla, joined to the land by a narrowing isthmus, this work, so indispensable to durable strength, was totally unattainable.

The strength, then, of the Castle of Scylla lay briefly in this, that its reduction required the bringing against it of heavy artillery, capable of beating down the rampart that fronted the land.

So much for the castle which I now beheld, and which, surrounded with enemies by sea and land, and cut off from all connection with any friendly force, stood up boldly in the midst of that sapphire sea and unfurled the three-coloured flag of national defiance.

I shall now briefly describe the circumstances and things by which it was at this time surrounded, not so much on account of any historical importance attaching to this little siege, as because the classic associations and natural beauties of the scene consecrate it to memory, and its local form subjected all these operations to the eye, like some warlike spectacle in the theatre of the gods.

If we can fancy ourselves within the castle and looking over the isthmus in the direction of the land, behind us and almost all round us is the sea. On the left hand is the beach and town of Scylla. On the right the bold and mountainous shore takes a gradual sweep, till over a space of sea it looks down upon our right flank. Here Sir Sidney Smith has established a battery and hoisted the English colours.

Immediately in front, from the base of the isthmus, rises a steep cliff, whose brow, divided into several distinct hills, overlooks the castle at the distance of some five or six hundred yards. These heights have a surface very spacious, rising very gradually from the cliff towards the steeps of the Superior Mountains. Farms, vineyards, gardens, and country houses occupy and intersect this sloping headland. But the head of each hill or cliff looking upon the castle has been kept bare, probably with a view to defence, though unfortunately the same precaution had not been observed with respect to the ground nearer the foot of the cliff, and looking very close upon the main rampart; for there, for marine convenience, a little suburb had been suffered to rise, and it was behind the mask of one of these houses that the breaching battery was at last erected.

Beyond that vine-clad esplanade or level district which rose very gradually from the brow of the cliff, the heights, still clothed with cultivation, ascended more steeply towards the summit of that vast range of mountains, which makes this trend of coast so bold, imperious, and pre-eminently beautiful.

It was partly upon, and partly still above, these steeper slopes that the besieging army bivouacked, as the nearer ground would have made them liable to annoyance from the guns of the castle.

All the necessary communication with the army from Sicily and from the sea was by a rugged mountain path formed upon the side of an awful ravine, whose embouchure opened upon the beach between the town and castle.

The road which this ravine afforded was not only difficult but likely to cause frightful accidents; for when I ascended by it the first time, to join the besiegers’ army, I saw where a sumpter horse heavily laden had fallen the day before with its load, and the poor animal was still visible lying on its back some hundred feet below.

To supply the requisites for a siege by such a road, it may well be believed, was difficult in the extreme, and would have been impossible but for our all-conquering sailors, who with their tackling and their “yo-hee-ho” hauled the guns and carriages up the rocks at the points nearest to the ground chosen for their position. Yet it was some days after my arrival before operations could be commenced, and much of those days I passed in a lofty observatory built of branches, in so elevated a position that I looked down upon the castle and the sea.

On one side I saw the Neapolitan gunboats, and on the other Sir Sidney Smith’s battery, cannonading the castle, and the castle occasionally making a shrewd shot at the gunboats, which also, oftener than the castle, were startled by the plunging fire of our naval battery. On the arrival of my Commandant all these futile operations died away. The General and the Admiral equally relied upon the resources of his science and the natural energy of his powerful mind, and after some loss from irregular experiments, no one was suffered to interfere with his plan of operations.

He went with us to the embouchure of the ravine to have a good view of the castle from head to foot; and whilst he stood with his uplifted telescope carefully examining the nature of its defences, a cannon-ball very nearly struck him, and covered him with sand; but he never even lowered his telescope or remitted his attentive speculation, and only showed that he was aware of the fact by saying, as he continued to look through his glass, “What asses, to fire in that way at an individual!”

It seemed to my inexperience that this was standing fire tolerably well--brave and invincible Lefebure! It was as he stood just so, with his eagle glance bent on the foe, the last to quit a ruined fort he was ordered to evacuate, that in after years a cannon-ball struck his breast, and severed his brave spirit from his noble form.[10]

That there might be no disappointment in the stores expected from Messina, I was desired to cross the Faro, superintend their embarkation, and return with them. For this purpose I took one of the Calabrese boats which lay on the beach.

The warders of the castle seeing a British officer put off in a boat, honoured us with a shot or two, to the great and undissembled terror of the boatmen, while I was doing all I could to imitate the cool indifference of our Commandant on the preceding day; but we soon got out of their range, and they ceased to fire, which made me wonder the more to see that the boatmen were going a devious course, sometimes one way, sometimes another. “What now,” said I, “body of Pluto! what ails the rogues?”

“Zitto! zitto! cellenza!” they whispered, and with their eloquent hands at once motioned me to be quiet, and to come forward to the prow. There on the very peak one of the men, having thrown off his jacket and shirt, stood up, as straight as a _mast_, with his flat hands pressed together on his breast, and looking down intensely upon the sea. Following the direction of his eyes, I perceived at a great depth, in the bright blue sea, rowing itself contentedly along, a turtle of a size uncommon in these waters. With great dexterity they so managed the boat as to follow closely the course of the turtle; and when they had brought the prow of the boat nearly over him, the man who stood there, lifting his joined hands above his head, turned himself over, and went head foremost like an arrow into the sea.

In a moment up he came again, bearing the dripping, gasping turtle on its back, in his two hands, clear above the water, flapping its oary legs, and gasping with its hawk’s beak; the man treading the water, panting and laughing at his exploit, and his delighted companions, as they relieved him of his load, all applauding him at once, helping him in, and saying, “Bravo, Signor, bravissimo! La Maestro! da capo! et viva!”

I thought I never saw a neater bit of fishing. A small silver coin served to make the turtle my own, and I determined to take him back with me to see what we could make of him.

* * * * *

But to return to Scylla. Before heavy guns could be got up, it was thought advisable to make such use of the Light Artillery as could destroy as much as possible the defences or fire of the enemy.

The most anxious night I ever passed was in erecting a breastwork for two 12-pounders within half musket-shot of the place, as everything depended upon its being completed before the light should discover us to the enemy. And though I explained to the men their danger if they should be discovered, it did not appear to create in them any extraordinary vigour. On the contrary, if my back was an instant turned, I found half of them asleep or sitting down, and it was difficult to detect them owing to the darkness of the night. Only by the most violent means could I extort a tolerable portion of labour, though I knew that if we were not covered before dawn, the spot was so exposed that at least half the party would be sacrificed.

By perfect silence, however, we avoided discovery during the night, favoured by the enemy being himself employed, as we could distinctly hear by every move, which, at cautious intervals, interrupted the silence of the night. The radiance of the stars faintly delineated the features of the gloomy horizon, and when the light of day discovered us to the enemy, he opened upon us a very brisk fire of musketry without intermission for an hour and a half, which, after being partially silenced by a howitzer, continued at intervals until the battery was finished. We were so well covered, and so little remained to be done on the outside, that only one man was wounded.

Nothing could be prettier than the siege to a person out of fire. The ruddy evenings gave the most tranquil warmth to the scene, which was bounded in front by the Lipari Islands, with Scylla on the left, and the beautiful Calabrian promontory on the right, and the only thing wrong was that the volcano should (quite contrary to usual practice) choose to remain in perfect repose.

When I left Scylla, the two 12-pounders had destroyed a part of the fort which hitherto had given us considerable annoyance, and in two days it was expected that we should open a battery of four 24-pounders within 150 yards of the castle, which could not fail in a few hours to knock it to pieces. The result was that Scylla surrendered on the 23rd July 1806.

* * * * *

Now for myself. I was ordered to put myself under the command of Lieut.-Colonel M’Leod, who with his regiment (78th) was to proceed on a reconnaissance on the eastern coast of Calabria; and here I am, installed on board the _London_ transport, and probably after a month’s cruising we shall come back and settle quietly in Messina.

“LONDON” TRANSPORT (OFF CALABRIA),
_July 20, 1806_.

MY DEAREST FATHER--I seize the only advantage immediately resulting
from being cooped on board, viz. the opportunity to address one’s
friends leisurely and comfortably; and as the duty on which I am
now going is not likely to be at all dangerous, I have no fears
of alarming you by giving as much account of myself as will be
comfortable to you and me.

* * * * *

H.M.S. _Amphion, July 24, 1806_.

My situation has been considerably amended as to comfort since
coming on board this ship, which is commanded by the brother of
my friend Hoste, R.E., whom I never spoke to until my arrival in
the Bay of St. Eufemia. Yet with the most gratifying attention, he
has rescued me from the miserable transport, where I was destitute
even of those comforts which usually palliate the sufferings of
a transport imprisonment, and taken me into his own cabin, which
is like most other cabins of men-of-war--a compact assemblage of
convenience and comfort. It was besides in some ways better that
I should be here with Colonel M’Leod, who came the moment we fell
in with the frigate, which, with the vessels and boats under the
command of Captain Hoste, is to co-operate with the troops under
Colonel M’Leod.

Very important despatches were intercepted yesterday; they were
from King Joseph to General Regnier, containing a positive order to
retire to Cassano, which is completely out of Calabria.

The King is afflicted and yet more astonished at the conduct of the
troops, which rendered nugatory the good arrangements of General
Regnier. He would have the 1st Regiment of Light Infantry reminded
that they never before had any fear of the English, but always made
them fly before them; and the rest of the troops--that they have,
until this unfortunate moment of panic-struck terror (for which
His Majesty is unable to account), been uniformly victorious. But
above all, they are desired to remember _that they are Frenchmen_,
and also to be assured that the Emperor shall be ignorant of their
conduct until some fresh intelligence convinces H.N.M. that it is
really a body of French troops of which General Regnier has the
command.[11]

We are every moment receiving on board the leaders of the Patriot Mountaineers, who are the most striking, barbarous-looking fellows.

_6th August._--I send these sheets as they are. I have no time to revise, and add the conclusion of my expedition, as tho’ I am at present on board the _Amphion_, yet not much time will elapse before I tread the firm ground of Messina.

The march of the enemy from Catanzaro towards Naples was very much harassed by the frigate, which threw her shot with admirable precision, insomuch that the column, dispersed and flying for cover, with the utmost precipitation, presented a favourable moment for the Mountaineers, which, alas! they let escape them.

This system of annoyance on our part was followed up on the enemy’s camp, north of Cotrone, from whence they marched in the night, leaving a garrison in the fortress which surrendered to our summons.

When we went on shore we were joyously received by the poor oppressed inhabitants, and the nobility of the town vied with each other in attention to us.

Being chief engineer I was attached to Captain Hoste and Colonel M’Leod, so that my situation was as pleasant as possible; for neither of the commanders treating me with the least _Big-wig_, we carried on the war like three jolly fellows.

A carriage waited each day at the Marina for our coming on shore, and a good dinner was prepared for all the officers.

The first day we dined at the house of a baron whose family had during the stay of the French been in the most terrible alarm, as the house was just in the range of fire between the vessels and the fortress.

One daughter was very beautiful, and I asked her if she was glad that the French were gone; she looked pensive and pale, and answered “Ma quanto.”

There was something gratifying though melancholy to me in the way these people clung to us in all their fears--for the French being gone, their alarm as to the depredations of the native masses was equally oppressive.

During dinner, some of the savage chiefs entered upon business with Colonel M’Leod, and this young creature showing evident signs of inquietude, I asked if she were afraid? “Con voi--no,” with much softness of expression, replied the beautiful Italian.

The British authorities, however, with very laudable solicitude, by threats and promises ensured to the town tranquillity, and quite calmed the fears of the inhabitants.

Yet I was shocked at some of the misery which I saw; alas! human misery can attain a very high pitch.

Colonel M’Leod desired me to give him a report upon Cotrona.

Now, reports are very ticklish sort of things, it being no difficult matter to get the wrong side, and then you are subscribed a fool in black and white to the end of your days--and this was the first time I had been called upon to act by myself. I obeyed orders with much trepidation, but as I afterwards found that Colonel M’Leod, in a despatch to Sir T. Stuart, called my paper “an able report, the ideas in which coincide with his own,” I am well satisfied, and indeed I have had a most pleasant expedition.

MESSINA (_2 hours later_).

I find that General Moore has arrived. I hope I was recommended to
him.--Ever your dutiful son,

C. B.

* * * * *

MESSINA, _August 13, 1806,
and August 28_.

MY DEAREST MOTHER--I am just returned from a most unexpected
cruise in the Gulf of Taranto (mouth of the Adriatic), where I was
despatched at a very short notice to reconnoitre Gallipoli and
Tarentum, port towns in the Gulf, and I this day carried in my
report to H.E. General Fox, who is a man of pleasant manners and
sensible appearance.

I was sent out in H.M.S. _Wizard_, a very fast-sailing brig,
Captain Palmer commander, and as he could not take me into the
harbour of Tarentum in the brig, owing to the batteries on an
island at the mouth--from which they gave us a hint or two--he
lowered his boat, and we advanced unmolested, very near the walls
of the town, which imprudence nearly cost us our liberty. For the
enemy on the watch let us come on as far as we would, and the
moment we turned, sent out a boat full of soldiers with a huge
sail. We attempted for some time to sail before them, but finding
they gained on us very fast, the sail was _downed_, and we threw
ourselves upon hard rowing for escape, which at one time neither
the captain nor myself had any hopes of; and I felt no small
degree of exultation to find myself on board H.M.S., as I was far
from wishing to be captured in so silly a manner.

They tell us of peace, but I will not believe it. No Minister can,
no Minister dare make peace in the present position. Nothing, in
my opinion, but this island being an acknowledged British colony,
could justify our admitting Joseph’s title to Naples, and we cannot
do this without providing for this king, and if he be provided
for, somebody else must be robbed. No, no, it won’t do.--Adieu, my
dearest mother, ever your affectionate son,

CHARLES.

* * * * *

_September 1._

To-day I wish my dearest father much good sport, and you a good
appetite to enjoy his success.

I am ashamed, my ever dearest lady mother, to send you so dirty a
letter, but I trust you will excuse it, as I was hurried by the
idea of the vessel sailing.

Sir John Stuart carries the mail in which are these letters. I hope
the country will receive him as the daring nature of his exploits
and the fulness of his victory warrant and demand.

* * * * *

MESSINA, _October 10, 1806_.

MY DEAREST FATHER--I have seen but little of General Moore. When I
meet him he treats me in the most agreeable way possible. I dined
with him the other day. He came very close to my heart talking of
you in a very friendly manner. Not indeed that he said much, but
when he mentioned you, he had a sort of friendly satisfaction very
agreeable. He told me I was not such a slim fellow as you, and
asked about your shooting, etc.

I feel it a sort of comfort to have some interest with a man who
may possibly prevent my being left in holes and corners when I
should be elsewhere.

General Sherbrooke is here. I do not know him, but hear he is a
first-rate officer.

We are extremely anxious for the packet. We expect to hear by
the next arrivals what our countrymen think of the battle of
Maida.--Your dutiful and affectionate son,

C. B.

* * * * *

CATANIA, _Feb. 21, 1807_.

MY EVER DEAREST FATHER--I did not remember until I dated this
letter that probably in the course of this day I should come across
your recollection. I beg your blessing, and that of my dearest
mother, and I pray God to bless you both, that you may long be able
to give it me on the return of this day.

My change of place prevents my writing so often as formerly, from
not being in the way of opportunities.

The packet of January has arrived, and possessed us of very late
papers.

It is believed here that the French, having crossed the Vistula,
have been beaten by the Russians, and any reverse with so large a
river in their rear would be incalculable. It is likewise believed
that Buonaparte is at Paris, endeavouring to reinforce his army, in
spite of a general ferment throughout France.

An expedition is expected to leave Sicily every hour, generally
supposed to be destined for Alexandria; but it is difficult to
conceive why we should wish to garrison Alexandria (the Porte
having defied us). As Turkey will do for the enemy as well as
Egypt in respect to India, to seize Constantinople would seem more
desirable, for I think there is no doubt but that Napoleon will
occupy the states of his ally as far as he thinks expedient; and
thus we should anticipate Buonaparte and preserve the passage of
the Dardanelles.

If this expedition is going to Egypt, I am glad I remain here,
but if Constantinople, I shall much regret that I was not ordered
to join it. There is still, I believe, some doubt about its going
at all, but I trust our dear old sturdy State will still be
superior to the continental commotion. She never saw the time more
calculated to try whether she be a solid fabric or no. For in this
dearth of political talents, and of all talents (for there are no
great men as yet visible), she must go almost by herself.

I am now quartered in this most beautiful town (Catania) upon Mount
Etna, which I shall ascend when the fine weather comes, if I am
still here.

I am rather inclined to believe that the war is near its close;
but I cannot discern the end.--Ever, my dearest father, your very
affectionate and dutiful son,

CHARLES.

* * * * *

AUGUSTA, _May 25, 1807_.

MY DEAREST MOTHER--I make an effort to save this packet, because
you will perhaps be anxious about Egypt, of which you will now
learn such unpleasant intelligence. There is at present no prospect
of my going there, altho’ I expected it some days ago, for I
should think that the first advices from England will lead to the
evacuation of that precarious possession. By what I can learn,
General Fox designs to maintain Alexandria until he can receive
new instructions.

Captain Lefebure, to my great vexation, has at his own desire been
relieved from his command by Major Bryce. He wrote me a long and
very kind letter upon the subject, and I transcribe a paragraph
which occurs at the latter end, because I know it will give old Dad
pleasure:--

“Dear Boothby, praise from me is superfluous, but I must yield to
my feelings, and give you my hearty thanks for your unremitted,
zealous, and useful professional support since we have been on the
same service.”

I am here under the command of Colonel Campbell, who, I suppose, is
one of those men than whom there _cannot_ be a better. I never knew
him before.

Augusta is on a peninsula between Syracuse and Catania. The party
of Guards with whom I live is the pleasantest society that can
be, and I sometimes go over to Syracuse, where I see Lord Fred
Bentinck, who is a capital fellow.

General Fox comes here to-day. He came here some time ago, but
was suddenly called to Messina by the Egyptian despatches. Being
obliged to go away early in the morning, he desired me to walk
home with him after dinner to show him a plan of the works, in
which walk he talked a great deal about Minorca and your family. My
kindest love to all.--Ever your truly affectionate son,

CHARLES.

The packet is gone, but a friend of mine goes to England under convoy of the _Intrepid_, which will sail immediately with General Fox, leaving General Moore in chief.

COPY OF LETTER FROM SIR JOHN MOORE TO LIEUTENANT BOOTHBY, R.E., AUGUSTA:--

MESSINA, _August 18, 1807_.

MY DEAR BOOTHBY--I had the pleasure of receiving your letter of the
22nd July, on my return from Palermo, two days ago. All I shall say
at present is, that I have a strong wish to serve and to oblige you.

I shall speak both to Major Bryce and to General Oakes on the
subject of your wishes, and when an opportunity offers, if the
situation is thought eligible for you and can be managed, you shall
have my interest.--I have the honour to remain with great regards,
very faithfully,

JOHN MOORE.

* * * * *

AUGUSTA, _Sept. 14, 1807_.

MY EVER DEAREST FATHER--The arrival of the packet at Malta has
relieved very strong apprehensions for her safety. If, as I hope,
there are a great many letters for me, I shall not get them until
they are delivered at Messina, and sent from thence hither. It
always happens in this manner that my answers are never able to
reach the return mail, but on this occasion I am determined to
answer by anticipation.

I can at least assure you that I am perfectly well, which is all in
the present press that I have time to do.

The heat of the summer caused an epidemic of fever, which has now,
however, almost entirely subsided. It plagued me for about a week,
since which I have been rudely well, though the weather has been
hot to a most irksome degree, and I have been obliged to brave
the sun at the peril of no other inconvenience than the prickly
heat--if you know what that is. I have indeed been harassed more by
anxiety than labour: the former, however, is nearly at an end now.

When I found my fever gone and my appetite returned, and nothing
left but depression of spirits and a little languor, I puts me into
a boat at night by a beautiful moon, more lovely than the sun, and
starts me for Syracuse for the next day’s races, where I had a
horse to run, and I knew there would be jollity.

I arrived much fatigued and slept a most excellent night, and
breakfasted late next morning--no sooner finished, than the
sporting gentlemen entered, and roused me up with a long pole, and
the quicksilver mounted directly; for these were people that I much
affect.

But first of all, for fear you should suppose that there is much
extravagance in this affair, I must tell you how it goes.

The races have been generally about once in six weeks, subscribers
pay a guinea, and each subscriber may, if he pleases, enter a
Sicilian horse. The guineas thus collected are divided into four
parts or three, according to the number of horses, which are also
arranged in classes according to their merits. The winner of each
class gets one of the divisions of the money, and then all the
winners run for the last division. They are weighted by handicaps.

In this manner my horse has won for me upwards of twenty guineas. I
should always subscribe whether I had a horse or not, because the
meeting is more pleasant than anything in this horrid country, and
I can afford it. With a little care I keep my head very well above
water.

Well, on the race day I was very merry, and dined in the evening
with the Jockey Club, which was entertained by a man by everybody
loved and esteemed for his excellence of all sorts, and who was
by me additionally regarded, because we were made acquainted by
a letter from poor Gould,[12] who was his first cousin. Finding
myself _de buon appetito_, I drank lots of champagne well iced, and
since have enjoyed robustness of health.

I do not see where will be the sense in talking to you about what
you will see in the papers. They now say that the seven islands are
all strictly blockaded; and it appears, by a letter from our Consul
at Corfu to Colonel Campbell, that Cæsar Berthier with 1500 men had
taken possession of Corfu, and felt himself critically situated
with so small a force in case of attack from us.

I fancy Zanti and the other islands are not yet occupied by the
French. We are all in a bustle to put the fortresses in a good
state of defence, and indeed, now the French have nothing else to
do, it behoves us to be very much on our guard if we are to keep
the island.

But I imagine that the immediate preparation was against any
attempt that might be meditated from Corfu--the very island which
now appears to have been in equal fuss on our account.

As I have been some time resident here upon other business, I
was desired to draw up a full memoir upon the defences of the
place,[13] which I set about reluctantly and fearfully, unwilling
to write myself ass, and not knowing that it would so soon come in
question.

The thing gave much anxiety and trouble, but it seems that I have
not come very wide of the mark, as I am threatened with an order to
execute most of my proposals. This is very pleasantly terminated,
as I wrote to recommend that an older officer should be sent down
(which some would call spiritless, _but we call honest_); and now
I find that the Captain whom I particularly wished to have, is
ordered to come here immediately.

_September 27._--Since I last wrote I have been highly delighted
with a visit to the crater of Mount Etna, which is not only more
sublimely terrific and more dreadfully beautiful than anything
else I ever beheld, but much more than my imagination had ever
pictured. I had been so much occupied since my residence in this
island, as to be prevented from joining any of the numerous parties
of last year. Thus I began to be very apprehensive that I might
labour under the reproach of residing near two years in Sicily
without beholding one of the most stupendous objects of nature--the
greatest of volcanoes. But the history of my ascent to Mount Etna
must be suspended _sine die_.

We were fortunate in finding the crater in an incessant state of
fiery eruption--tremendous indeed! It threw out red stones very
near us. The guide was alarmed. Hereafter I may relate more at
length an excursion strongly impressed upon my mind.

An expedition is on the eve of departure from Sicily. It will have
about 7000 men, commanded by General Moore and General Paget--the
Guards and Moore’s own regiment (52nd),--in short, the flower of
the army.

I wrote to go, and was gratified to find that I was in the
arrangement. I am told that it is intended to place me on the
staff. At any rate I am delighted to go.

Nobody can guess our destination. All parts of the world have been
conjectured, England and Ireland not excepted.

I have been very lucky never to be ill on these occasions, and am
much pleased at being remembered, though in this out-of-the-way
place, and being placed immovably on the list.

I long to see General Moore wave his hat, and hope we are to trim
the real French--and no auxiliaries nor Turks.

Burgoyne is Commanding Engineer, and almost all my friends and
people to whom I am attached are going, which gives much huzza
to my feelings. I should certainly have hanged myself had I been
left in this hole after the Guards had left it, and when all my
world had gone forth. Perhaps my being on the expedition may much
expedite my return to God’s dearest blessings, which I prize so far
above all other earthly goods. It is fortunate for a man’s piety
when the objects of his gratitude are so undeniably great as to
fill his heart and make him know how good God has been to him. I
have come to that state when I would be thought truly pious--I had
always a hankering after it,--as I find that nothing encourages
half so much the gladness of the heart or the sublimity of the mind.

With infinite love, your truly affectionate

CHARLES.

_October 17._--At the time the above was written the fleet was getting under way, and was to rendezvous at Syracuse, where it was to be joined by the troops from Egypt, who were already at Messina. Colonel Campbell had no idea of the destination of the expedition. An order has since gone out for its recall to Sicily.

“ELIZABETH” TRANSPORT, MEDITERRANEAN SEA,
240 miles from Gibraltar. Foul wind, fresh.
_November 29, 1807._ 30 days at sea.

MY DEAREST LOUISA--I know nothing more efficacious in my present
misery than writing to you, by which for the moment I may lose the
consciousness of it. Do not be alarmed; they are only the miseries
of this restless element and stinking prison to which I allude.

On leaving Sicily some one persuaded me that our undoubted
destination was Palermo. When that was passed, we all thought
Lisbon the mark. Now we learn by the _Minstrel_ (which spoke the
_Queen_ about ten days ago) that the Prince Regent of Portugal has
declared against us; and I am inclined to think that this event may
make the object of this army a secret to Sir John Moore himself;
but Brazil is the general speculation. For my part I think our
return more likely, as it appears of increasing importance to rivet
Sicily as our perpetual colony--a measure which I am persuaded
would be unattended with difficulty in the execution, and, as far
as I can judge, filled with advantage in the end.

But leave we this to the wise, while we content ourselves with
ourselves.

I find complaints about not writing so unavailing that I am quite
puzzled how to act. I will have no letter that can be written
in a day; I will have a journal! a compilation! Why do I see
others--Colonel Campbell, for instance--receive packet upon packet
copiously filled? Do you think that because he is a great man his
friends write to him about State affairs, which are better treated
in the papers--or Philosophy, or History perhaps? No, no; they
write to him those heaps of gossip which are interesting only to
him, but which of course delight him a thousand times more than
any other subjects. Those incidents, dear Lou, which you think too
trivial to send two thousand miles, never considering that domestic
anecdotes so many thousand miles as they travel are so many
thousand times more valuable to a man of affections than if sent to
him a trifling distance, which you would not scruple to do.

It surprises me the more that you, my dearest lass, are silent, who
write with such apparent facility and impress your expressions with
the graces of your nature--the true secret to make correspondence
delightful--when that which I have long loved in yourself breathes
through your letters and gives them the air of your conversation.

I therefore recommend that you would keep a regular journal, enough
to make me an immense letter once a month; and don’t be particular
about a subject, so as you talk about what is actually going on
amongst you. If “Molly Morley be brave to what she war,” it is
very interesting to hear so, and if you still keep your taste for
barley sugar! which I doubt not! But Brookes’ exploits must always
be productive, with his badgers and things, and I thank you again
for those anecdotes. I wrote the lad a letter some time ago. How I
long to see him! Nobody makes me laugh half so much as he does, and
I love a hearty laugh.

But my home letters feel always so skinny between the finger and
thumb that I am always sure there cannot be much in them, and every
line I read I grudge, for fear of coming to the end. When once I
do get home what a zest will my absence give to every blessing;
for whereever I go or whatever I see, I may say with the feeling
Goldsmith--

My heart, untravelled, fondly turns to thee,
Still wanders o’er the peaceful scenes I love,
And drags a lengthening chain at each remove.

I long incessantly to return to the bosom of that family to which
may be applied the words of a less celebrated poet--

Nor last, tho’ noticed last by me,
Appears that happy family,
No pen can do strict justice by,
And mine should be the last to try--
Wher’ever going--there approved
And only known to be beloved.

COUCH, canto ii.

This letter will probably be concluded from Gibraltar, where I may
have a better idea of my destination. At present I am tired out
with this tedious passage and tossing about from one side of the
cabin to the other. The soup in my lap! and my fist in the pudding.
Oh dear! Oh dear! But now, please Neptune, we may have a fair wind,
and may run into Gibraltar in two or three days. The only amusement
on board ship is light reading and making verses. It is quite
impossible to bore.

Since I came on board I have read with a good deal of attention
for the first time Dryden’s Virgil and Pope’s Homer, from which in
themselves I did not derive half so much pleasure as the conviction
of Milton’s decided superiority to both.

A man reading a translation cannot of course judge of the language
or numbers of the original, but these I believe are not of the
first consequence, and Pope is generally esteemed a greater master
of both than Milton (though I am myself quite of a contrary
opinion); but it is in the thoughts that Milton so astonishingly
surpasses, I think, both Homer and Virgil; for surely nobody who
reads _Paradise Lost_, and the _Iliad_ by Pope, can doubt how
cumbersome rhyme is to an epic poem, or how much it relaxes the
energy of the verse, or how much grander a translation of Homer
Milton could have furnished than that for which we are so greatly
obliged to Pope. I prefer the _Odyssey_ to the _Iliad_, and the
_Georgics_ to the _Æneid_, for the latter is something like a
servile imitation of the Greek.

By the way, if you have never read Boswell’s _Life of Johnson_,
let me recommend you to a most delicious entertainment. Although
the biographer portrays himself an inconceivable goose, I never
met with anything so interesting as his book, nor so wonderful as
the conversation and universal wisdom of Johnson, whom he will
never believe to be a coward, though it were proved in fifty
thousand courts--and this indissoluble attachment is with me called
rectitude of heart.

* * * * *

GIBRALTAR, _December 4, 1807_.

After a most unpleasant passage of thirty-six days, we arrived here
on the 1st inst. We have received no intelligence of any sort. Sir
John Moore has sailed alone to the westward, and it is supposed
that his object is to concert what may be best, by what he may find
to have happened at Lisbon. All thoughts of South America seem to
have subsided; and if in the end we do return, our advance and
enterprise do not seem to be yet quashed, from the orders which the
General gives us.

I have been much gratified by a letter from the mother of my
friend,[14] promising that the epitaph I sent should be placed
on his tomb, and professing to have derived much comfort from my
sympathy, and from the affectionate tribute paid to her son’s
memory. It has in a manner set my heart at rest on this melancholy
subject, for there is a great mental satisfaction, if no solid
sense, in the consideration that I have performed the last sad duty
to his ashes, by establishing a little register of his virtues and
our friendship, which otherwise would have sunk with me and those
who loved him into oblivion, the idea of which is horrible.

_5th December._--The mail closes to-morrow and I have no time
to alter or peruse anything--so take it as it is--it’s just a
talk.--Yours,

CHARLES.

* * * * *

ISLE OF WIGHT,
ST. HELENS, _December 29, 1807_.

EVER DEAREST FATHER--If you have not been prepared for it, my
arrival in England will be to you an agreeable surprise, as in fact
it is almost to me.

We had a favourable passage of thirteen days, and came to anchor
last night. When I have seen Sir John Moore in Portsmouth and
General Morse in London, I shall be better able to fix my
movements; at present my thoughts are to stay here two or three
days, then to London, and so meet you at Sudbury before the 9th.