Chapter XXIX

A Cordial Reception at San Francisco--Mexicans in the Employ of Indians --The Morning Star, the Great God of the Coras--The Beginning of the World--How the Rain-clouds were First Secured--The Rabbit and the Deer--Aphorisms of a Cora Shaman--An Eventful Night--Hunting for Skulls--My Progress Impeded by Padre's Ban--Final Start for the Huichol Country--A Threatened Desertion, Pages 508-530

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Portrait of the Author _Frontispiece_
A Dasylirion, 1
Cottonwood, 4
_Cereus Greggii_, a small cactus with enormous root, 5
Fronteras, 7
Remarkable Ant-hill, 8
Church Bells at Opoto, 10
Also a Visitor, 11
A Mexican from Opoto, 12
Rock-carvings near Granados, 15
The Church in Bacadehuachi, 17
Aztec Vase, Found in the Church of Bacadehuachi, 18
_Agave Hartmani_, a new species of century plant, 19
Ancient Pecking on a Trachyte Boulder one foot square, 20
In the Hills of Northeastern Sonora, 24
Adios, Senor! 27
View toward the Northwest from Sierra de Huehuerachi, 29
Our Principal Guide Leaving Us, 32
A Mule with its Pack of Crates, 33
The Photographic Mule, 34
On the Crest of the Sierra, 37
Apache Monument, 39
Camp in the High Sierra, 47
Bringing in Deer, 51
The Largest Woodpecker in the World, 54
Distant View of Cupola-shaped Granary in Cave, 58
Single Wall in Cliff, 61
Ground Plan of House Groups in Granary Cave, 62
Cupola-shaped Granary in Cave, 64
Granary in Tlaxcala, 65
Bases of Granaries in Cave, 65
Ground Plan of House Groups in Cave on East Side of the
River, 66
Sandal Plaited from Yucca Leaves, 67
Heel of a Sandal, Showing Plaiting, 68
Piece of Wood Showing Drill Mark, 68
Pendant of Wood, 69
Implement for Throwing, 69
Burial Caves in Cave Valley, 70
A Mummified Body, 71
Rock Paintings in White on the Inside of a Burial Cave in
Cave Valley, 72
A Trinchera in Cave Valley, 73
Ancient Cave-dwellings in Strawberry Valley, 75
Interior View of Cave-dwellings Shown on Page 75, 76
Exterior View of Cave-dwellings in Strawberry Valley, 77
Objects Found in Mounds at Upper Piedras Verdes River, 81
Painting on Rock on Piedras Verdes River, 82
Figures on Walls of a Cave-house on Piedras Verdes River, 83
Figure on Rock on Piedras Verdes River, 83
Hunting Antelope in Disguise, 84
Casas Grandes, 85
Ceremonial Hatchet with Mountain Sheep's Head. From Casas
Grandes. Broken, 88
Earthenware Vessel in Shape of a Woman. From Casas Grandes, 89
Cerro de Montezuma and the Watch Tower Seen from the South, 91
Double Earthenware Vessel, from San Diego, with Hollow
Connection at Base, 92
Extension of Designs on Plate I., _a_, 95
The Horned Toad Jar, Seen from Above and Below. Plate I.,
_c_, 95
Extension of Designs on Plate I., _d_, 95
Extension of Designs on Plate III., _e_, 95
Extension of Designs on Plate V., _e_, 97
Black Ware, Highly Polished, 97
Extension of Design on Plate IV., _a_, 98
Extension of Design on Plate IV., _b_, 98
Extension of Designs on Plate IV., _c_, 98
Extension of Designs on Plate IV., _f_, 98
Extension of Designs on Plate V., _c_, 98
Ancient Cave-dwelling at Garabato, 101
Part of Cave-dwellings at Garabato, 103
Design in Red on Second-story Wall, 105
Piece of Matting from Garabato Cave, 107
Ancient Cave-houses and Granaries near Aros River, 111
Tarahumare, 119
Tarahumare Plough with Wooden Share, 121
Tarahumare Ploughshare Made of Oak, 122
Tarahumare Ploughshare of Stone, 122
Young Southern Pima, 123
Middle-aged Southern Pima, 124
Southern Pimas Living in a Brushwood Inclosure, 125
Pine Cone Serving as a Comb, 127
Southern Pima Arrow Release, 128
Small Crosses Placed in a Log in Front of Southern Pima
House, 128
The Waterfall of Basasiachic, 129
Tarahumare Ploughman, 133
Ancient Stone Hammer Seen in the Presidente's Yard, 134
Tarahumare Indians from Pino Gordo, 137
Tarahumare Court in Session at Cusarare, 140
Barranca de Urique, 145
Our Tarahumare Carriers and the Gobernador, 148
Tarahumare Men, 149
Tarahumare Woman, 150
Necklace of Seeds of _Coix Lachryma-Jobi_, 151
Tarahumare Ear-ornament: one seed _Coix Lachryma-Jobi_ at
top. Natural size, 151
Tarahumare Ranch near Barranca de Cobre, showing ploughed
fields supported by stone walls, 152
Tarahumare Ranch near Barranca de Cobre, showing agriculture
on terraces, 152
Tarahumare House near Barranca de Cobre, 157
Tarahumare House in the Hot Country, 158
Cappe of Sandstone Pillar, showing effect of erosion, 159
Tarahumare Family Camping under a Tree, 161
Inhabited Cave, the Home of a Tarahumare Belle, 162
The Belle of the Cave, 163
Side View of Cave on Page 165, Showing Store-houses and
Inclosure, 164
Inhabited Cave, Showing Store-houses, Inclosure, and Extended
Floor, 165
Cave with Wooden Ladder Leading to a Store-room, 169
Crosses Made from the Natural Growth of Pine-trees in Front
of Tarahumare House, 172
Crosses in Front of Tarahumare House, 173
Cross, 174
Tarahumare Store-house of Stones and Mud, 175
Caves Used as Store-houses, 176
Tarahumare Store-houses Made of Logs, 178
Cactus Flowers, 179
Making Larvae Ready for the Pot, 182
Gathering Pithaya, 188
In the Highlands of the Sierra, 194
Tarahumare Interpreters, 201
Indian Trail Cut in a Ridge of Tuff, 202
Pecking on Rock in the Neighbourhood of Norogachic, 203
Tarahumare Girl from the Neighbourhood of Norogachic, 205
Pecking on Rock in the Neighbourhood of Norogachic, 207
Winter Morning in the Sierra, 209
Dogs of Chihuahua, 216
Tarahumare Girdles, 219
Aspect of the Tarahumare Country in Humarisa, 227
Taking My Baggage Down an Indian Trail in the Barranca de
San Carlos, 231
Tarahumare Woman, 236
Tarahumare Man, 237
Usual Crouching Position of the Tarahumare, 238
Tarahumare Man, 239
Tarahumares Sunning Themselves, 240
Tarahumare Girl. The Hair Worn in Mexican Fashion, 242
Weaving a Girdle, 249
Patterns of Tarahumare Belts, 249
Woman Pottery Maker and Some Results of Her Labour, 250
Tarahumare Pottery from Panalachic, 252
Basket for Straining Tesvino, 254
Tarahumare Blanket, 259
A Tarahumare Call, 260
Tarahumare Arrow Release, 262
Tarahumare Baskets, 263
Tarahumare Girl Carrying Water, 265
Tarahumare, Showing Mode of Wearing Blanket, 268
Tarahumare Blankets, 274
Stone Disk for Playing, 277
Sticks Used by Tepehuanes for Playing, 278
Value of the Different Sides of a Knuckle-bone, 278
Tarahumares Playing Quinze, 279
Cross Marking the Track of the Foot-runners, 283
Tarahumares Racing by Torch-light, 285
Making Wagers at a Foot-race, 288
Part of Tarahumare Rattling Belt, 290
Tarahumare Foot-runners, Photographed after the Race, 291
Tarahumare Women Crossing a Stream in Their Race, 293
Fork and Wooden Ball Used in Women's Game, 294
Stick and Ring Used in Women's Game, 294
The Coyote, _Canis Latrans_, 303
Tarahumare Shaman's Rattles, 313
Rubio, the Shaman, 316
Rubio, the Shaman, and His Wife at Home in Their Cave, 319
Shaman Rubio's Cave, Seen from the Outside, 320
Rubio, the Shaman, Examining a Man Accused of Sorcery, 324
Trepanned Tarahumare Skull, Female, 328
The Beginning of the Rutuburi and the Yumari Dance, 335
Dancing Yumari, 341
Sacrificing Tesvino after a Yumari Dance, 345
Ready to Begin Eating and Drinking after a Night's Dancing
of Rutuburi, 349
_Echinocactus_, 357
Hikuli or Peyote, the principal sacred cacti, 358
Dry Hikuli, 359
Shaman's Notched Stick, 366
Ancient Notched Sticks, 366
Tarahumare Women Dancing Hikuli at Guajochic Station, 369
_Mammilaria fissurata_, 373
Shaman Rubio and His Company at a Hikuli Feast. Photographed
after a Night's Singing and Dancing, 376
Tarahumare Medicine Figure, Mexico, 378
Ancient Ritualistic Petrograph, Arizona, 378
Mourning, 380
View from the North across Barranca de San Carlos, near
Guachochic, 392
Barranca de San Carlos, in its Upper Part, 395
One of My Companions in Barranca de San Carlos, 397
The Widow Grinding Corn in Her Camp, 399
Bow and Throwing-stick for the Fish-spear, 401
The Amole, a Species of Agave, 402
Tarahumares on the Rio Fuerte Fishing with Their Blankets, 405
_Pinus Lumholtzii_, 409
Civilised Tarahumare Boy, 417
Juan Ignacio and His Son, Pagan Tarahumares, 419
A Tepehuane Family, 423
Old Log-houses near Nabogame, 424
Tepehuanes from Nabogame, 427
Tepehuane Medicine Lodge near Mesa de Milpillas, 432
A Well-known Tepehuane Shaman, 434
_Salvia elegans_, var. _sonorensis_, 438
The Flower-spike of the Amole, 439
_Cereus caespitosus_, 440
Tubar Man, 442
Tubar Women, 443
Beads of Burnt Clay, from Tubar Tombs, 444
Tepehuane Sling made from Maguey Fibre, 458
Tepehuane Pouch made from Maguey Fibre, 459
Tepehuane Store-house, near Lajas, 461
The Musical Bow of the Tepehuanes of the South, and of the
Aztecs, 475
Rattle for Ankle, made from Empty Pods of a Palm, 477
Cora Men and Women from Santa Teresa, 489
Cora Pouch, of Unusual Shape, made of Wool. Patterns represent
Flying Birds and a row of Deer, 492
Cora Indians from Mesa del Nayarit, 501
The Sacred Dancing-place of the Coras, called Towta, the
supposed residence of the great Taquat of the East of the
same name. Photographed after the Dancing was over, 517
God's Eye, made by the Cora Tribe as a Prayer for My Health
and Life, 521

COLOURED PLATES

PLATES I., II., III., IV. Pottery from San Diego _at end
of volume_
PLATE V. Pottery from San Diego and Casas Grandes _at end
of volume_
PLATE VI. A Tarahumare Beauty _facing page 266_

UNKNOWN MEXICO