Chapter I: Preface

In presenting to the public another book of travels in the East, when it is already overwhelmed with little volumes about palm-trees and camels, and reflections on the Pyramids, I am aware that I am committing an act which requires some better excuse for so unwarrantable an intrusion on the patience of the reader than any that I am able to offer.

The origin of these pages is as follows:--I was staying by myself in an old country-house belonging to my family, but not often inhabited by them, and, having nothing to do in the evening, I looked about for some occupation to amuse the passing hours. In the room where I was sitting there was a large book-case full of ancient manuscripts, many of which had been collected by myself, in various out-of-the-way places, in different parts of the world. Taking some of these ponderous volumes from their shelves, I turned over their wide vellum leaves, and admired the antiquity of one, and the gold and azure which gleamed upon the pages of another. The sight of these books brought before my mind many scenes and recollections of the countries from which they came, and I said to myself, I know what I will do; I will write down some account of the most curious of these manuscripts, and the places in which they were found, as well as some of the adventures which I encountered in the pursuit of my venerable game.

I sat down accordingly, and in a short time accumulated a heap of papers connected more or less with the history of the ancient manuscripts; at the desire of some of my friends I selected the following pages, and it is with great diffidence that I present them to the public. If they have any merits whatever, these must consist in their containing descriptions of localities but seldom visited in modern times; or if they refer to places better known to the general reader, I hope that the peculiar circumstances which occurred during my stay there, or on my journeys through the neighbouring countries, may be found sufficiently interesting to afford some excuse for my presumption in sending them to the press.

I have no further apology to offer. These slight sketches were written for my own diversion when I had nothing better to do, and if they afford any pleasure to the reader under the same circumstances, they will answer as much purpose as was intended in their composition.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER Page xix

PART I.

EGYPT IN 1833.

CHAPTER I.

Navarino--The Wrecks of the Turkish and Egyptian Fleets--Alexandria--An Arab Pilot--Intense Heat--Scene from the Hotel Windows--The Water-Carriers--A Procession--A Bridal Party--Violent mode of clearing the Road--Submissive Behaviour of the People--Astonishing Number of Donkeys--Bedouin Arabs; their wild and savage appearance--Early Hours--Visit to the Pasha's Prime Minister, Boghos Bey; hospitable reception--Kawasses and Chaoushes; their functions and powers--The Yassakjis--The Minister's Audience Chamber--Walmas; anecdote of his saving the life of Boghos Bey 1

CHAPTER II.

Rapacity of the Dragomans--The Mahmoudieh Canal--The Nile at Atfeh--The muddy Waters of the Nile--Richness of the Soil--Accident to the Boatmen--Night Sailing--A Collision--A Vessel run down--Escape of the Crew--Solemn Investigation--Final Judgment--Curious Mode of Fishing--Tameness of the Birds--Jewish Malefactors--Moving Pillar of Sand--Arrival at Cairo--Hospitable Reception by the Consul-General 14

CHAPTER III.

National Topics of Conversation--The Rising of the Nile; evil effects of its rising too high; still worse consequences of a deficiency of its waters--The Nilometer--Universal Alarm in August, 1833--The Nile at length rises to the desired Height--Ceremony of cutting the Embankment--The Canal of the Khalidj--Immense Assemblage of People--The State Tent--Arrival of Habeeb Effendi--Splendid Dresses of the Officers--Exertions of the Arab Workmen--Their Scramble for Paras--Admission of the Water--Its sudden Irruption--Excitement of the Ladies--Picturesque Effect of large Assemblies in the East 27

CHAPTER IV.

Early Hours in the Levant--Compulsory Use of Lanterns in Cairo--Separation of the different Quarters of the City--Custom of sleeping in the open air--The Mahomedan Times of Prayer--Impressive Effect of the Morning Call to Prayer from the Minarets--The last Prayer-time, Al Assr--Bedouin Mode of ascertaining this Hour--Ancient Form of the Mosques--The Mosque of Sultan Hassan--Egyptian Mode of "raising the Supplies"--Sultan Hassan's Mosque the Scene of frequent Conflicts--The Slaughter of the Mameluke Beys in the Place of Roumayli--Escape of one Mameluke, and his subsequent Friendship with Mohammed Ali--The Talisman of Cairo--Joseph's Well and Hall--Mohammed Ali's Mosque--His Residence in the Citadel--The Harem--Degraded State of the Women in the East 35

CHAPTER V.

Interview with Mohammed Ali Pasha--Mode of lighting a Room in Egypt--Personal Appearance of the Pasha--His Diamond-mounted Pipe--The lost Handkerchief--An unceremonious Attendant--View of Cairo from the Citadel--Site of Memphis; its immense extent--The Tombs of the Caliphs--The Pasha's Mausoleum--Costume of Egyptian Ladies--The Cobcob, or Wooden Clog--Mode of dressing the Hair--The Veil--Mistaken Idea that the Egyptian Ladies are Prisoners in the Harem; their power of doing as they like--The Veil a complete Disguise--Laws of the Harem--A Levantine Beauty--Eastern Manners--The Abyssinian Slaves--Arab Girls--Ugliness of the Arab Women when old--Venerable Appearance of the old Men--An Arab Sheick 47

CHAPTER VI.

Mohammed Bey, Defterdar--His Expedition to Senaar--His Barbarity and Rapacity--His Defiance of the Pasha--Stories of his Cruelty and Tyranny--The Horse-shoe--The Fight of the Mamelukes--His cruel Treachery--His Mode of administering Justice--The stolen Milk--The Widow's Cow--Sale and Distribution of the Thief--The Turkish Character--Pleasures of a Journey on the Nile--The Copts--Their Patriarchs--The Patriarch of Abyssinia--Basileos Bey--His Boat--An American's choice of a Sleeping-place 64

NATRON LAKES.

CHAPTER VII.

Visit to the Coptic Monasteries near the Natron Lakes--The Desert of Nitria--Early Christian Anchorites--St. Macarius of Alexandria--His Abstinence and Penance--Order of Monks founded by him--Great increase of the Number of ascetic Monks in the Fourth Century--Their subsequent decrease, and the present ruined state of the Monasteries--Legends of the Desert--Capture of a Lizard--Its alarming escape--The Convent of Baramous--Night attacks--Invasion of Sanctuary--Ancient Glass Lamps--Monastery of Souriani--Its Library and Coptic MSS.--The Blind Abbot and his Oil-cellar--The persuasive powers of Rosoglio--Discovery of Syriac MSS.--The Abbot's supposed treasure 75

CHAPTER VIII.

View from the Convent Wall--Appearance of the Desert--Its grandeur and freedom--Its contrast to the Convent Garden--Beauty and luxuriance of Eastern Vegetation--Picturesque Group of the Monks and their Visitors--The Abyssinian Monks--Their appearance--Their austere mode of Life--The Abyssinian College--Description of the Library--The mode of Writing in Abyssinia--Immense Labour required to write an Abyssinian book--Paintings and Illuminations--Disappointment of the Abbot at finding the supposed Treasure-box only an old Book--Purchase of the MSS. and Books--The most precious left behind--Since acquired for the British Museum 90

THE CONVENT OF THE PULLEY.

CHAPTER IX.

The Convent of the Pulley--Its inaccessible position--Difficult landing on the bank of the Nile--Approach to the Convent through the Rocks--Description of the Convent and its Inhabitants--Plan of the Church--Books and MSS.--Ancient excavations--Stone Quarries and ancient Tombs--Alarm of the Copts--Their ideas of a Sketch-book 105

RUINED MONASTERY AT THEBES.

CHAPTER X.

Ruined Monastery in the Necropolis of Thebes--"Mr. Hay's Tomb"--The Coptic Carpenter--His acquirements and troubles--He agrees to show the MSS. belonging to the ruined Monastery, which are under his charge--Night visit to the Tomb in which they are concealed--Perils of the way--Description of the Tomb--Probably in former times a Christian Church--Examination of the Coptic MSS.--Alarming interruption--Hurried flight from the Evil Spirits--Fortunate escape--Appearance of the Evil Spirit--Observations on Ghost Stories--The Legend of the Old Woman of Berkeley considered 117

THE WHITE MONASTERY.

CHAPTER XI.

The White Monastery--Abou Shenood--Devastations of the Mamelukes--Description of the Monastery--Different styles of its exterior and interior Architecture--Its ruinous condition--Description of the Church--The Baptistery--Ancient Rites of Baptism--The Library--Modern Architecture--The Church of San Francesco at Rimini--The Red Monastery--Alarming rencontre with an armed party--Feuds between the native Tribes--Faction fights--Eastern Story Tellers--Legends of the Desert--Abraham and Sarah--Legendary Life of Moses--Arabian Story-tellers--Attention of their Audience 130

THE ISLAND OF PHILŒ, &c.

CHAPTER XII.

The Island of Philœ--The Cataract of Assouan--The Burial Place of Osiris--The Great Temple of Philœ--The Bed of Pharaoh--Shooting in Egypt--Turtle Doves--Story of the Prince Anas el Ajoud--Egyptian Songs--Vow of the Turtle Dove--Curious fact in Natural History--The Crocodile and its Guardian Bird--Arab notions regarding Animals--Legend of King Solomon and the Hoopoes--Natives of the country round the Cataracts of the Nile--Their appearance and Costume--The beautiful Mouna--Solitary Visit to the Island of Philœ--Quarrel between two native Boys--Singular instance of retributive Justice 141

PART II.

JERUSALEM AND THE MONASTERY OF ST. SABBA.

CHAPTER XIII.

Journey to Jerusalem--First View of the Holy City--The Valley of Gihon--Appearance of the City--The Latin Convent of St. Salvador--Inhospitable Reception by the Monks--Visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Description of the Interior--The Chapel of the Sepulchre--The Chapel of the Cross on Mount Calvary--The Tomb and Sword of Godfrey de Bouillon--Arguments in favour of the Authenticity of the Holy Sepulchre--The Invention of the Cross by the Empress Helena--Legend of the Cross 165

CHAPTER XIV.

The Via Dolorosa--The Houses of Dives and of Lazarus--The Prison of St Peter--The Site of the Temple of Solomon--The Mosque of Omar--The Hadjr el Sakhara--The Greek Monastery--Its Library--Valuable Manuscripts--Splendid MS. of the Book of Job--Arabic spoken at Jerusalem--Mussulman Theory regarding the Crucifixion--State of the Jews--Richness of their Dress in their own Houses--Beauty of their Women--Their literal Interpretation of Scripture--The Service in the Synagogue--Description of the House of a Rabbi--The Samaritans--Their Roll of the Pentateuch--Arrival of Ibrahim Pasha at Jerusalem 181

CHAPTER XV.

Expedition to the Monastery of St. Sabba--Reports of Arab Robbers--The Valley of Jehoshaphat--The Bridge of Al Sirat--Rugged Scenery--An Arab Ambuscade--A successful Parley--The Monastery of St. Sabba--History of the Saint--The Greek Hermits--The Church--The Iconostasis--The Library--Numerous MSS.--The Dead Sea--The Scene of the Temptation--Discovery--The Apple of the Dead Sea--The Statements of Strabo and Pliny confirmed 192

CHAPTER XVI.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Processions of the Copts--The Syrian Maronites and the Greeks--Riotous Behaviour of the Pilgrims--Their immense numbers--The Chant of the Latin Monks--Ibrahim Pasha--The Exhibition of the Sacred Fire--Excitement of the Pilgrims--The Patriarch obtains the Sacred Fire from the Holy Sepulchre--Contest for the Holy Light--Immense sum paid for the privilege of receiving it first--Fatal Effects of the Heat and Smoke--Departure of Ibrahim Pasha--Horrible Catastrophe--Dreadful Loss of Life among the Pilgrims in their endeavours to leave the Church--Battle with the Soldiers--Our Narrow Escape--Shocking Scene in the Court of the Church--Humane Conduct of Ibrahim Pasha--Superstition of the Pilgrims regarding Shrouds--Scallop Shells and Palm Branches--The Dead Muleteer--Moonlight View of the Dead Bodies--The Curse on Jerusalem--Departure from the Holy City 208

PART III.

THE MONASTERIES OF METEORA.

CHAPTER XVII.

Albania--Ignorance at Corfu concerning that Country--Its reported abundance of Game and Robbers--The Disturbed State of the Country--The Albanians--Richness of their Arms--Their free use of them--Comparative Safety of Foreigners--Tragic Fate of a German Botanist--Arrival at Gominitza--Ride to Paramathia--A Night's Bivouac--Reception at Paramathia--Albanian Ladies--Yanina--Albanian Mode of settling a Quarrel--Expected Attack from Robbers--A Body-Guard mounted--Audience with the Vizir--His Views of Criminal Jurisprudence--Retinue of the Vizir--His Troops--Adoption of the European Exercises--Expedition to Berat--Calmness and Self-possession of the Turks--Active Preparations for Warfare--Scene at the Bazaar--Valiant Promises of the Soldiers 235

CHAPTER XVIII.

Start for Meteora--Rencontre with a Wounded Traveller--Barbarity of the Robbers--Albanian Innkeeper--Effect of the Turkish Language upon the Greeks--Mezzovo--Interview with the chief Person in the Village--Mount Pindus--Capture by Robbers--Salutary effects of Swaggering--Arrival under Escort at the Robbers' Head-Quarters--Affairs take a favourable turn--An unexpected Friendship with the Robber Chief--The Khan of Malacash--Beauty of the Scenery--Activity of our Guards--Loss of Character--Arrival at Meteora 257

CHAPTER XIX.

Meteora--The extraordinary Character of its Scenery--Its Caves formerly the Resort of Ascetics--Barbarous Persecution of the Hermits--Their extraordinary Religious Observances--Singular Position of the Monasteries--The Monastery of Barlaam--The difficulty of reaching it--Ascent by a Windlass and Net, or by Ladders--Narrow Escape--Hospitable Reception by the Monks--The Agoumenos, or Abbot--His strict Fast--Description of the Monastery--The Church--Symbolism in the Greek Church--Respect for Antiquity--The Library--Determination of the Abbot not to sell any of the MSS.--The Refectory--Its Decorations--Aërial Descent--The Monastery of Hagios Stephanos--Its Carved Iconostasis--Beautiful View from the Monastery--Monastery of Agia Triada--Summary Justice at Triada--Monastery of Agia Roserea--Its Lady Occupants--Admission refused 279

CHAPTER XX.

The great Monastery of Meteora--The Church--Ugliness of the Portraits of Greek Saints--Greek Mode of Washing the Hands--A Monastic Supper--Morning View from the Monastery--The Library--Beautiful MSS.--Their Purchase--The Kitchen--Discussion among the Monks as to the Purchase Money for the MSS.--The MSS. reclaimed--A last look at their Beauties--Proposed Assault of the Monastery by the Robber Escort 298

CHAPTER XXI.

Return Journey--Narrow Escape--Consequences of Singing--Arrival at the Khan of Malacash--Agreeable Anecdote--Parting from the Robbers at Messovo--A Pilau--Wet Ride to Paramathia--Accident to the Baggage-Mule--Its wonderful Escape--Novel Costume--A Deputation--Return to Corfu 312

PART IV.

THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS.

CHAPTER XXII.

Constantinople--The Patriarch's Palace--The Plague, Anecdotes, Superstitions--The Two Jews--Interview with the Patriarch--Ceremonies of Reception--The Patriarch's Misconception as to the Archbishop of Canterbury--He addresses a Firman to the Monks of Mount Athos--Preparations for Departure--The Ugly Greek Interpreter--Mode of securing his Fidelity 327

CHAPTER XXIII.

Coom Calessi--Uncomfortable Quarters--A Turkish Boat and its Crew--Grandeur of the Scenery--Legend of Jason and the Golden Fleece--The Island of Imbros--Heavy Rain Storm--A Rough Sea--Lemnos--Bad Accommodation--The Old Woman's Mattress and its Contents--Striking View of Mount Athos from the Sea--The Hermit of the Tower 342

CHAPTER XXIV.

Monastery of St. Laura--Kind Reception by the Abbot--Astonishment of the Monks--History of the Monastery--Rules of the Order of St. Basil--Description of the Buildings--Curious Pictures of the Last Judgment--Early Greek Paintings; Richness of their Frames and Decorations--Ancient Church Plate--Beautiful Reliquary--The Refectory--The Abbot's Savoury Dish--The Library--The MSS.--Ride to the Monastery of Caracalla--Magnificent Scenery 356

CHAPTER XXV.

The Monastery of Caracalla--Its beautiful Situation--Hospitable Reception--Description of the Monastery--Legend of its Foundation--The Church--Fine Specimens of Ancient Jewellery--The Library--The Value attached to the Books by the Abbot--He agrees to sell some of the MSS.--Monastery of Philotheo--The Great Monastery of Iveron--History of its Foundation--Its magnificent Library--Ignorance of the Monks--Superb MSS.--The Monks refuse to part with any of the MSS.--Beauty of the Scenery of Mount Athos 377

CHAPTER XXVI.

The Monastery of Stavroniketa--The Library--Splendid MS. of St. Chrysostom--The Monastery of Pantocratoras--Ruinous Condition of the Library--Complete Destruction of the Books--Disappointment--Oration to the Monks--The Great Monastery of Vatopede--Its History--Ancient Pictures in the Church--Legend of the Girdle of the Blessed Virgin--The Library--Wealth and Luxury of the Monks--The Monastery of Sphigmenou--Beautiful Jewelled Cross--The Monastery of Kiliantari--Magnificent MS. in Gold Letters on White Vellum--The Monasteries of Zographou, Castamoneta, Docheirou, and Xenophou--The Exiled Bishops--The Library--Very fine MSS.--Proposals for their Purchase--Lengthened Negotiations--Their successful Issue 391

CHAPTER XXVII.

The Monastery of Russico--Its Courteous Abbot--The Monastery of Xeropotamo--Its History--High Character of its Abbot--Excursion to the Monasteries of St. Nicholas and St. Dionisius--Interesting Relics--Magnificent Shrine--The Library--The Monastery of St. Paul--Respect shown by the Monks--Beautiful MS.--Extraordinary Liberality and Kindness of the Abbot and Monks--A valuable Acquisition at little Cost--The Monastery of Simopetra--Purchase of MS.--The Monk of Xeropotamo--His Ideas about Women--Excursion to Cariez--The Monastery of Coutloumoussi--The Russian Book-Stealer--History of the Monastery--Its reputed Destruction by the Pope of Rome--The Aga of Cariez--Interview in a Kiosk--The She Cat of Mount Athos 413