Chapter I: Front Matter

_THE_
ARAFŪRA SEA,
_by_
George Windsor Earl.

_London. J. Madden. 1839._]

VOYAGES

OF THE

DUTCH BRIG OF WAR

DOURGA,

THROUGH THE

SOUTHERN AND LITTLE-KNOWN PARTS

OF THE

MOLUCCAN ARCHIPELAGO,

AND ALONG THE

PREVIOUSLY UNKNOWN SOUTHERN COAST

OF

NEW GUINEA,

PERFORMED

DURING THE YEARS 1825 & 1826.

BY

D.H. KOLFF, Jun.

LUITENANT TER ZEE, 1^e KLASSE, EN RIDDER VAN DE MILITAIRE
WILLEMS ORDE.

TRANSLATED FROM THE DUTCH

By GEORGE WINDSOR EARL,

AUTHOR OF THE "EASTERN SEAS."

LONDON:
JAMES MADDEN & CO., LEADENHALL STREET,
LATE PARBURY & Co.

1840.

LONDON:

EDWARD BREWSTER, PRINTER,

HAND COURT, DOWGATE.

AUTHOR'S PREFACE.

A plain preface will be best adapted for a simple narrative of events that occurred and observations made during Voyages through important countries, with a portion of which we were previously unacquainted, while the remainder have been but rarely visited. I was repeatedly requested by relatives and friends, both in India and in the Mother Country, to communicate these to the Public, as being information that would be deemed useful and important, not only by Government and Naval officers, but by every inquiring Netherlander. This encouragement induced me, who, being a seaman, cannot aspire to literary renown, to employ my leisure hours in compiling the following unadorned narrative of my voyages through the Southern parts of the Archipelago of the Moluccas, and along the South-west coast of New Guinea.

If the hopes I have cherished as to the importance of the information here given be not without ground, I trust that I shall not demand in vain the indulgence of my honoured Readers, which I am sure will be readily granted when it is taken into consideration, that the continued fatigues I endured, not only while engaged in performing the voyages here described, but also while employed in the expedition against Celebes in 1824, have undermined and broken my constitution. The confidence with which the Government honoured me by entrusting to me the execution of these voyages of examination, was certainly a spur which incited me to overcome all difficulties, and to make myself as useful as possible to my country.

With the assistance of my officers and of intelligent natives, I was fortunately enabled to collect accurate details concerning numerous islands and coasts, which I subsequently laid down in a chart, and forwarded it to the Government, a correct copy of which, on a smaller scale, I offer to my reader, as an illustration to the narrative.

If I have succeeded in effecting the object for which this volume is offered to the Public, I shall consider the time and trouble bestowed upon its compilation as being richly rewarded.

D.H. KOLFF, Jun.

November, 1838.

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.

The numerous islands lying between the Moluccas and the northern coasts of Australia, have hitherto been very little known to the world; indeed, we cannot discover that any account of them has yet been made public, with the exception of some observations in Valentyn's "Oude en Nieuw Oost Indien," a work published in Holland more than a century ago:--we are, therefore, induced to offer a few particulars concerning their early history, as an introduction to M. Kolff's narrative.

We cannot discover that these islands were ever visited by Europeans previous to 1636, in which year Pieter Pieterson, a Dutch navigator, touched at the Arru Islands during his voyage to examine the northern coasts of Australia, which had been discovered thirty years previously by a small Dutch vessel, called the _Duyfken_. Six years subsequently the Arru group was again visited by F. Corsten, when several of the native chiefs were induced to acknowledge the supremacy of the Dutch East India Company, binding themselves to trade with no other Europeans, and investing them with the monopoly of the pearl banks, the produce of which the Dutch conveyed to Japan, and there found a ready market and a lucrative return. Transactions, with similar views, subsequently took place at the adjacent islands, on which small bodies of troops were placed, to whose control the simple natives willingly submitted, and viewed with indifference the destruction of the spice trees, which were vigorously sought for and up-rooted by the new comers.

As it was the object of the Dutch to restrict the trade in spices within narrow limits, in order to enhance the value of this commodity, of which they enjoyed the monopoly, the East India Company did not permit even their own countrymen to carry on a commercial intercourse with these islands; indeed, the only advantages the Company derived from their possession, consisted in their affording slaves to cultivate the clove and nutmeg plantations of Banda and Amboyna, the only settlements in which they allowed spices to be grown. Notwithstanding these restrictions, an extensive contraband trade was carried on with the islands; for the Europeans who were, from time to time, encouraged by the Company to settle in the Moluccas as planters, although receiving bounties in the shape of free grants of land, with advances of slaves and provisions on credit and at original cost, under the sole condition that they should supply the Company with the produce at a fixed price, soon abandoned their plantations, and embarked in the more exciting and lucrative trade with the islands to the southward, sending confidential slaves in charge of their prahus.[1] It is recorded, that many individuals collected enormous fortunes by this traffic, which, indeed, was nearly all profit, as the goods sent there were of very small value. The trepang fishery, now the principal source of wealth to these islands, then scarcely existed, and the return cargoes of the prahus consisted chiefly of less bulky articles, such as amber, pearls, tortoise-shell and birds-of-paradise.

Towards the close of the last century, when the rigorous monopoly of the Dutch had induced other natives to produce spices, which were cultivated with success by the French in the Isle of Bourbon, and by the English on the west coast of Sumatra, the Moluccas began to decline in importance, and with a view to reduce government expenditure, the Dutch withdrew their military establishments from the islands to the southward. The Bughis, an enterprising people from the southern part of the island of Celebes, and Chinese merchants from Java and Macassar, immediately engrossed the trade with the islands:--the wars which broke out in Europe about this time affording them great encouragement, since the Dutch, sufficiently occupied in maintaining their more important possession, could offer little interruption. The British, during their short occupation of the Moluccas, were so exclusively occupied by the immediate affairs of newly-acquired settlements, that the countries beyond their limits were, in a great measure, neglected; indeed, the inhabitants of some of the more remote islands were not aware that the Moluccas had changed masters; the Dutch flags left among them many years previously, being still hoisted on festive occasions.

When Java and its dependencies were restored to Dutch dominion after the peace of 1814, their East India Company had ceased to exist; the Government, however, continued to monopolize the traffic with the Moluccas. The Chinese merchants of Java and Macassar had, by this time, embarked largely in the trade with the Arru and Serwatty Islands; several brigs and large prahus, manned with Javanese, but having Chinese supercargoes, annually resorting to them from Sourabaya, and the other commercial ports to the westward.

Christianity, the seeds of which had been sown by the Dutch during their occupation of the islands, also began to spread among the inhabitants, and the native Amboynese teachers, who established themselves in some of the chief villages, were encouraged rather than molested by the Bughis and Chinese traders, these perceiving that their interests would be promoted by any advance the natives might make in civilization. The Bughis, unlike the Malayan and Ceramese Mohammedans, care little about making proselytes; neither do the Chinese feel much inclination to obtain converts to their half atheistical creed, which they themselves seem disposed to ridicule.

The founding of Singapore by Sir Stamford Raffles, in the year 1819, forms an important era in the history of the Indian Archipelago. The liberality of the institutions adopted there gave an impulse to commerce and civilization throughout the Eastern Seas, and even the most distant and barbarous tribes have not been excluded from participation in the general improvement. Among the first to avail themselves of this new state of affairs, were the enterprising Bughis tribes of Celebes, who flocked to Singapore by thousands, delighted at the favourable opportunity offered them for disposing of their produce to Europeans and Chinese merchants, without being subjected to extortionate imposts, or the annoyances of custom-house officers, which had hitherto checked their enterprize.

The islands in the eastern part of the Archipelago were, however, too distant from this emporium for the natives to partake of the benefits it offered, in an equal degree with those of the countries more adjacent. The greater portion of the produce afforded by the Arru and neighbouring islands, was collected and brought by the Bughis to Celebes, where it was re-shipped for Singapore; at least twelve months being required to send the goods to market and receive the returns.

It was chiefly to establish an intercourse with the natives of these parts, by presenting to them a more convenient mart for their produce, that a British settlement was formed on Melville Island, near the coast of Australia, in 1824, by Captain, now, Sir J.J. Gordon Bremer, and if this, and the settlement subsequently formed at Raffles Bay, proved unsuccessful, it is more to be attributed to our want of information concerning these islands than to any other cause. Two small vessels successively were sent among them by the authorities of Melville Island, neither of which returned. It will be seen by M. Kolff's narrative, that, unhappily, both these vessels directed their course to parts previously unvisited by foreigners, and that the natives, unable to resist the temptation of acquiring more valuable property than they had ever before contemplated, attacked and plundered them, killing the greater portion of their crews. Had they visited the parts of these islands which were frequented by the traders, they might have done so with comparative safety, as the natives there would have been too well aware of the value of commerce to risk the danger of putting a stop to it by an action likely to draw upon them the vengeance of a powerful people.

From M. Kolff's voyage having been undertaken so soon after our occupation of Melville Island, there is some reason to believe, that the formation of that settlement had considerable influence in inducing the Dutch Government suddenly to take a deep interest in the islands adjacent to it, which had been almost totally neglected for half a century previously. Whether this voyage was beneficial or otherwise to the British interest in that quarter the reader will be able to judge from the work itself, but, at all events, we have to thank M. Kolff for information which cannot but be valuable, now that we are about to found another settlement in that part of the world; H.M. ships _Alligator_ and _Britomart_, again under the command of Sir Gordon Bremer, being on their voyage to the northern coast of Australia for the purpose. The arrangement of the work for publication has afforded the Translator occupation and amusement during a long voyage, and he trusts it may be the means of conveying useful information concerning a simple and industrious people, occupying a number of richly productive islands, in the immediate vicinity of a continent which may be considered a vast British colony, and with whom his countrymen may open an intercourse likely to prove advantageous to both parties.

H.M. Ship _Alligator_,
Sydney.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: Si quelque habitans de Banda avaient acquis des richesses, ils ne les avaient nullement à l'industrie agricole, mais à la contrabande et au commerce avec les îles d'Arauw (Arru), ou ils envoyaeint des embarcations dirigées par les esclaves qu'on leur avait procurés pour l'entretien des pares (_spice plantations_). Quelques individus ont fait de cette manière une immense fortune.--_Count de Hogendorp's "Coup-d'œil sur l'Isle de Java,"_ p. 333.]

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

EXPEDITIONS IN THE MOLUCCA AND JAVA SEAS.

PAGE

Outward Voyage.--Tristan D'Acunha.--English Settlement.--Expedition
in the Molucca Seas.--Voyage to
Palembang and Banka.--Fidelity of Javanese Seamen.--Expedition
to Macassar.--Particulars concerning the
Macassar War. 1

CHAPTER II.

TIMOR.

Object of the Voyage.--Sail for Timor.--Arrive at the
Portuguese Settlement of Dilli.--Poverty of the Inhabitants.--Mean
Reception.--Agriculture much neglected.--Slave
Trade.--Symptoms of Distrust on the Part of
the Portuguese.--Discontented state of their Native
Subjects.--Departure for the Island of Wetta. 29

CHAPTER III.

THE SERWATTY ISLANDS.

Arrival at the Island of Wetta.--Productions.--Trade.--Interview
with the natives.--Destruction of the chief
village.--Depart for Kissa.--The Christian inhabitants.--The
fort Vallenhoven.--Friendly reception by the
natives.--Beauty of the landscape.--State of agriculture.--Attachment
of the people to the Dutch government.--General
assemblage of the people.--Performance of divine
service.--Native hospitalities.--Order, neatness and industry
of the people of Kissa. 40

CHAPTER IV.

LETTE.

Arrival at the Island of Lette.--Anchoring Place.--Series
of Disasters.--Character of the Inhabitants.--The
Mountaineers.--Differences among the Islanders.--Good Effects
of our Mediation.--Respect entertained by the Natives
towards the Dutch Government. 57

CHAPTER V.

MOA AND ROMA.

Boat Expedition to the Island of Moa.--Good Inclination
of the Inhabitants.--The Block-house.--The Duif
Family.--Character of the People.--Respect entertained
by the Heathen towards the Christian Inhabitants.--State
of Civilization and Public Instruction.--Kind Hospitality
of the Natives.--Their Feelings of Attachment and Confidence
towards the Dutch Government.--Departure for
the Island of Roma. 70

CHAPTER VI.

DAMMA.

Arrival at the Island of Damma.--Description of the Country
and Inhabitants.--Warm Springs.--Retrograde Movements
of the Natives in point of Civilization.--Their
Attachment to the Religion and Manners of the Dutch.--Productions
of the Soil.--Dangerous Channel along the
Coast.--The Columba Globicera.--Wild Nutmeg Trees.--General
Meeting of the Chiefs.--Transactions of M. Kam. 91

CHAPTER VII.

LAKOR.

Description of the Island Lakor.--Coral Banks.--Shyness
of the Inhabitants.--Productions.--Singular Expedition.--Childish
Litigiousness and obstinate Implacability.--Native
Hospitality.--Customs and Dress of the People. 107

CHAPTER VIII.

LUAN.

Arrival at the Island Luan.--Dangerous Passage.--Our
Reception by the People.--Commerce and Fisheries.--The
Christians of Luan.--Their Customs and Dispositions.--Hospitality
and Good Nature of the Inhabitants.--Hazardous
Situation on leaving the Island. 117

CHAPTER IX.

BABA.

Voyage towards Banda.--Remarks on the Islands Sermatta,
Teon and Nila.--Arrival at Banda.--Humanity of an
Orang-Kaya.--Description of the Island Baba.--Great
Fear and Distrust of the Inhabitants.--Their Manners
and Customs.--The Island Wetang.--Cause of the Distrust
of the Natives.--Murderous and plundering Propensities
of the People of Aluta.--Disturbances between
the Inhabitants of Tepan and Aluta. 129

CHAPTER X.

THE ARRU ISLANDS.

Daai Island.--Singular Change in the Colour of the Sea.--Festivities
on Board.--The Arru Islands.--Description
of these remarkable Regions.--Customs of the Arafuras.--Total
Absence of Religion.--Proofs of the Mildness of
their Form of Government.--Singular Treatment of their
Dead. 149

CHAPTER XI.

THE ARRU ISLANDS.

Trade of the Arru Islands.--Chief Productions.--Trepang.--The
Island Vorkay.--The Pearl Fishery.--The Arafuras
of Kobroor and Kobiwatu.--Duryella, the capital
of Wama.--The Schoolmaster.--Homage paid by the
Natives to M. Kam. 171

CHAPTER XII.

THE ARRU ISLANDS.

Gathering of the People at Wokan.--Religious Exercises
of the People.--Their singular Mode of Dress.--The
Church.--The Fort.--State of Christianity on Wokan.--Dobbo,
an important Trading Place.--Commercial Advantages
that may be gained there.--Valuable Fishery.--The
Pilandok.--Ludicrous alarm of the Arafuras. 187

CHAPTER XIII.

THE ARRU ISLANDS.--THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.

Arrival at the Island Wadia.--Particulars concerning the
Island and its Inhabitants.--Dispute between them and
the Orang Tua of Fannabel.--Sad Result of their
Contentions.--Departure from the Arru Islands.--Arrival at
the Tenimber Group.--Vordate.--Ignorance and Perplexity
of the Pilot.--Singular Customs.--Violent Conduct
of the People of Timor-Laut.--The Inhabitants of
Watidal and their Chiefs. 206

CHAPTER XIV.

THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.

Visit to Watidal.--Respect shown to the Dutch Flag.--The
English supposed by the Natives to be _Orang-gunung_,
or Mountaineers.--The Prosperity of the People
inseparable from the Rule of the Dutch over these Countries.--Traces
of the Christian Religion having formerly
obtained here.--Departure from Larrat to Vordate.--Allurements
of the latter Island.--The Inhabitants of the
Tenimber Islands.--Their Manners and Customs.--Mode
of Warfare.--Striking Proofs of their Attachment to the
Dutch Government. 232

CHAPTER XV.

THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.

The Village Chiefs of Sebeano.--Ludicrous Mistake.--War
between Romian and Ewena.--The insignificant
Cause which gave rise to it.--Successful Attempts at
Reconciliation.--Contribution towards giving a Knowledge
of their Character.--State of the Country.--Productions
and Commerce.--The Author visits Larrat.--Uncivil
Reception at Kalioba.--Departure for Watidal.--Meeting
on the North-west Point of Timor Laut.--Departure
for Serra. 249

CHAPTER XVI.

THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.

Departure for the Island Maling.--Laboba Island.--Productive
Fishery.--Heavy Dew on the Island Wau.--Arrival
at the Village of Maktia.--Occurrences there.--One
of the Crew severely wounded.--Return towards
Vordate.--Return of the Envoys to Serra.--Want of
Water.--Poisonous Beans.--Death of the wounded Man.--Return
to the Brig.--Arrival of the Chiefs of Serra.--Transactions
at Vordate.--Departure from the Tenimber
Islands.--Arrival at Amboyna. 268

CHAPTER XVII.

THE CERAM-LAUT AND GORAM ISLANDS.

Preparations for a Voyage to New Guinea.--Departure
from Amboyna.--Banda.--Arrival at Kilwari.--Ghissa.--Character
of the Inhabitants.--Visit from the Chiefs of Kilwari and
Keffing.--Their Wars.--Force of the Islanders.--The Ceram Laut
Islands.--Their Vessels.--Commerce.--Exclusive Right assumed by
the Inhabitants over the Coast of New Guinea.--Smuggling Trade
of the English.--Papuan Pirates devour their
Prisoners.--Slaves.--Sale of Children by their Parents. 284

CHAPTER XVIII.

GORAM AND THE ARRU ISLANDS.

The Keffing Islands.--Dwellings of the Chiefs.--Pass the
Goram Islands.--Description of the same.--Acquaintance
of the Natives with the Coast of New Guinea.--The
Products of these Islands of vital Importance to Banda.--Small
Portion of the Trade enjoyed by our Settlements.--Coin.--Costume
of the Inhabitants.--Equipment of Paduakan.--Snake-Eaters.--The
Fishery.--Arrival of the Brig at Wadia.--Number of trading Prahus
at Dobbo.--Adjustment of Disputes.--Christian Teachers on
the Arru Islands.--Their Poverty.--Visit Wokan.--Appointment
of an Upper Orang Kaya, and other Transactions
on the Arru Islands. 302

CHAPTER XIX.

NEW GUINEA.

Voyage towards the St. Bartholomeus River.--Encounter
a Multitude of Whales.--Discover a Sand-bank.--Nautical
Remarks.--Difficulty in approaching the Land.--Sharks.--Crocodiles.--Discover
a River.--The Author ascends it.--Remarkable Behaviour of the
Natives.--Their Wild State.--Unable to land.--Arrival at an uninhabited
Bay on the Island of Lakahia.--Visit from some of the Chiefs. 317

CHAPTER XX.

NEW GUINEA.

Armed Boats sent on Shore.--Treacherous Attack of the
Natives.--A Soldier killed.--Cowardly Conduct of the
Officers in Charge of the Watering-Party.--The Author
personally visits the Bay.--Causes of the Barbarism of
the Natives of New Guinea.--Faithless and arbitrary
Conduct of the Ceramese.--Profitable Nature of the
Trade.--Departure from New Guinea. 332

CHAPTER XXI.

THE KI AND TENIMBER ISLANDS.

The Ki Islands.--Character of the People.--Arrive at
Vordate.--Improved Condition of the Natives.--Ceramese
Pirates.--The English Captives at Luora.--The Author
departs for Serra in the Boats.--Meet with a Prahu-tope.--Honesty
of the Natives in their Dealings.--Arrival at
Serra.--Native Warfare.--Ceremonies attending the
Peace-making.--Return towards Vordate.--Turtles and
their Eggs.--Wild Cattle.--Arrival on Board the Brig.--Singular
Customs with regard to Trade.--Demand for
Gold Coin.--Departure from the Tenimber Islands.--Arrival
at Amboyna.--Approval of our Proceedings by
the Government.--Conclusion. 344

THE
INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
1837.]

VOYAGES

OF THE

DUTCH BRIG DOURGA,

&c. &c.