Chapter I: Front Matter

WANDERINGS
IN
NORTH AFRICA.

NOTICE.

* * * * *

The following pages have been passed through the press during the absence of their Author in the East. This circumstance will explain any few errors in the orthography of names of places or persons which may be met with in them.

=WANDERINGS=
IN
=NORTH AFRICA.=

BY
JAMES HAMILTON.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1856.

LONDON: PRINTED BY WOODFALL AND KINDER,
ANGEL COURT, SKINNER STREET.

CONTENTS.

* * * * *

PAGE
INTRODUCTION ix

CHAPTER I.

Malta to Benghazi. — Benghazi. — Aspect of the Town. —
Population. — Diseases. — Government. — Antiquities. — Dress
of the Inhabitants. — Trade. — Artisans. — Jews 1

CHAPTER II.

Preparations for Departure from Benghazi. — Leave Benghazi.
— Arab Horses. — Ruins of Kasa Tawileh. — Labiar. — What
an Arab is. — Mode of Travelling. — Retinue. — Silphium. —
Tombs. — Cyrene 18

CHAPTER III.

Grennah. — Arab Conversation. — Fountain of Cyre. — Ruins
of Cyrene. — Interrupted by Bedawin. — Ruins of a Theatre.
— Bas-reliefs. — Inscriptions. — Terraces. — Temple of
Æsculapius. — Aqueduct. — Cyrene’s History unknown. — Its
Ruinous state 33

CHAPTER IV.

Interview with the Bey. — Arab Feast. — The Bey’s Hospitality 55

CHAPTER V.

Meditations at Sunrise. — Violation of the Tombs. —
Description of the Tombs. — Allegorical Figures. — Splendid
Tomb. — Curious Tombs. — Lively Vale. — Unartistic Statues 62

CHAPTER VI.

Charming Scenery. — Arab Summer Dwellings. — Ruins of
Apollonia. — Ancient Granaries. — Chapels over Saints’ Tombs.
— Abd-el-Kader’s Warriors. — Temple of Bacchus 78

CHAPTER VII.

Grennah, a Charming Retreat. — Pleasant Camping-ground. —
Rencontre with an Arab Saint. — The Son of a Rich Prince. —
Striking Cures 92

CHAPTER VIII.

An Arab “Vendetta.” — Coquetry at the Wells. — A Bridal
Procession. — The Okbah Pass 103

CHAPTER IX.

Improvidence of the Arabs. — Derna, its lively appearance. —
Ruined Battery. — Curious Bargain 113

CHAPTER X.

Convent Agriculture. — A Roman Stronghold. — Splendid Olive
Groves. — Water runs short. — The Mirage. — Dine with the
Governor. — The Site of Ancient Barca. — Quit the Plain of
Merdj 122

CHAPTER XI.

Tomb of a Ptolemy. — Unequal Taxation. — What a Wife costs. —
Ruins of Tolmeta. — Wall around Tancra. — Good State of the
Ruins. — The Rains. — Arab Tents. — Return to Benghazi 138

CHAPTER XII.

What a Consul should be. — Turkish Oppression. — Official
Corruption. — Universal Venality. — The Moslem hates the
Christian 154

CHAPTER XIII.

Benghazi to Augila. — Corn Stores. — Cachettes. — Ruins near
El-Farsy. — Remarkable Fortress. — Horrors of the Slave
Trade. — England should forbid it. — Herds of Gazelles. —
Bruce. — Rĕsam. — Oasis of Augila 165

CHAPTER XIV.

Augila and Jalo. — Group of Oases. — The Majabra Arabs. — The
Sultan of Waday. — Turkish Drunkards. — Inconveniences of
Travel 187

CHAPTER XV.

The rival Sheikhs. — Weary Days at Augila. — Chain of Oases. —
Marriage Feasts. — Marriage Gifts 204

CHAPTER XVI.

Vexatious Delay. — Lose the Track. — Short commons in the
Desert. — Genuine Arab Hospitality. — En route for Siwah.
— Sand Valleys. — Scene of Desolation. — Signs of Volcanic
Action. — Approach Siwah. — Sepulchral Caves. — Arrive at
Siwah 215

CHAPTER XVII.

Encampment at Siwah. — Conference with the Sheikhs. — Refuse
to quit Siwah. — Attack on the Tents. — Detained at Siwah.
— Incidents while imprisoned. — Defensive Preparations. — A
South Wind blows Good Luck. — Manners, &c., of the People. —
Their Appearance and Dress. — An Industrious Race 237

CHAPTER XVIII.

Arab Mesmerism. — Divination. — Sheikh Senusi. — Morocco
Miracles. — A Treasure-seeker’s Tales. — Yusuf’s Ingenuity. —
Further exemplified. — My Captivity ended. — The Tables turned 261

CHAPTER XIX.

Antiquities of Agharmy. — Ruins of a Temple. — Ancient Palace.
— Acropolis of the Oasis. — Tombs of the Ammonians. — Interior
of Siwah. — Ruins of Beled er-Roum. — Many Ruins around 281
Siwah. — Preparations for Departure

CHAPTER XX.

Leave Siwah. — Rude Sepulchres. — A Camel’s Last Stage. — Sand
Storm. — Find an Arab Cousin. — Corn hard to get at. — Adieu
to the Desert. — The Desert. — The Oasis. — Arrive at Cairo 301