Chapter III: Introduction

Gănésh, the Patron of Literature—Parvutī—The Gods in
Council—Chaunrīs of the Yāk—The Conch Shell—Bells used in
Pūja—The Sacred Spoon—The Kālā-Pānī—The Salām vii

CHAPTER I.

DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND.

1822, _April_.

Flying Visit to Switzerland—The good Ship ‘Marchioness of
Ely’—H. M. 16th Lancers—Porto Santo—Fellow-Passengers—Isle
of Palma—Divine Service—The Band—Quadrilles—The first
Shark—Bristol Water—Skip-jacks—Prickly Heat—Crossing the
Line—Amusements on Board—A Blue Shark—Sucking-Fish—Bonito—Santa
Trinidada and Martin Vas Rocks—The Albatross—Thoughts of
Home—A Calm—Shooting Season on the Ocean—Three Days of
Battue—Whale-Shooting—A deep Calm—Scarcity of Water—Anchored at
Carnicobar 1

CHAPTER II.

CARNICOBAR.

1822, _October_.

Appearance and Attire of the Islanders—Canoes—Visit to their
Village—Ornaments of the Natives—Departure from the Island—The
Andamans—Anchorage at Saugor—The Hoogly—Arrival in Calcutta 14

CHAPTER III.

LIFE IN INDIA.

1822, _November_.

Calcutta—First Impressions—Style of Indian
Houses—Furniture—Mats—Arabs—Departure of the
Marquis of Hastings—Fogs—Christmas-Day—Indian
Servants—The Sircar—Thieves—The Hot
Winds—Pankhās—Fire-flies—North-Westers—The
Foliage—Musquitoes—Elephantiasis—Insects—The Chŭrŭk
Pooja—Religious Mendicants 20

CHAPTER IV.

RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA.

1823.

Baboo Ramohun Roy—Nāch girls—Children in India—Sickness in
the Fort—The Rains—Vessels for a Voyage on the Ganges—Indian
Fever—Arrival of Lord Amherst—Introduction of Steam-boats on
the Hoogly—Interest of Money in Calcutta—Robberies—Jamh o
Deen, Prince of Mysore—The Doorga Pooja—Images of Clay—The
Races—Chinese Screens—The Dog Crab 29

CHAPTER V.

RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA.

1824.

Advantages and Disadvantages—Interest never
sleeps—Barrackpore—Cairipoor—The Fakīr—The
Menagerie—Hyena—Change of Residence to Chowringhee Road—Mouse
and Spotted Deer—Bengallee Goats—Lotteries—Trial by Rice—The
Toolsee—Epidemic Fever—Burmese War—Major Sale—Haileybury—The
Hooqŭ—Dr. Kitchener—Death of Lord Byron—Early
Marriages—Pleasures of the Cold Season—Indian Hospitality—Knack
of Fortune-making lost 37

CHAPTER VI.

RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA.

1825.

A Day in March—The Furlough and Pension Funds—Bandicote
Rats—The Strand—The Cutting System—Harrow-on-the-Hill—Sickness
in Amman—The Golden Feet—Arrival of Lord
Combermere—Bhurtpore—La Pucelle—Marsh Fever—Change of Residence
to Middleton Row, Chowringhee—Fogs up to the Second Story—Burrā
Bazār—Seed Pearl 50

CHAPTER VII.

DEPARTURE FROM THE PRESIDENCY.

1826.

Fulbertus Sagittarius—Billiards—The Recall of Lord
Amherst—Zenāna of an opulent Hindoo—The Death
of Bishop Heber—Affliction in the Family of the
Governor-General—Appointment to Allahabad—Sale of ‘Scamp’—March
up the Country—Dāk Bungalows—Fakīrs en route—The Soane
River—Sassaram—Suttees at Nobutpoor—Benares—Pooja in a Hindoo
Temple—Brāhmani Bulls—The Minarets—Beetle Wings—Hindoo
House—Benares Hackeries—Dāk to Allahabad—Visit to Papamhow 58

CHAPTER VIII.

LIFE IN THE MUFASSIL.

1827, _January_.

First Visits in the East—Papamhow—Runjeet Singh’s
Illness—Death of Lord Hastings—Lord Amherst created Earl of
Arracan—Marriage of a Neem to a Peepul—The Bacäin—A Koord
Arab—Visit to Lucnow—His Majesty Nusseer-ood-Deen Hyder—Lord
Combermere—Kywan Jab—Presents not allowed to be accepted—Fights
of Wild Beasts—Quail—Departure of Lord Combermere—Skinner’s
Horse—Return to Prāg 70

CHAPTER IX.

RESIDENCE AT ALLAHABAD.

1828.

Sinking a Well—Hurriannah Cows—Delhi Goats—The Jumnapār—Doomba
Sheep—Buffalo Humps—Water-cresses—Marrowfat Peas—Carrots—The
Chatr—The Oleander—The Ice-pits—Cream Ice, how to
freeze—Burdwan Coal—Indian Fevers—Mr. Bayley, Viceroy—Fear of
the Invasion of the Russians and Persians—Intense Heat—Deaths
in the Farm-yard—Chota Jehannum—The Verandah at Noon—Mad
Pariah—Trelawny—Châteaux en Espagne—Height of the two
Rivers—Death of the Bishop of Calcutta—An Hummām—The first
Steamer at Prāg 77

CHAPTER X.

LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA.

1828, _October_.

Zenāna of the King of Oude—Regiment of Females—The Favourite
Wife—The English Begam—The Princess of Delhi, _the_ Begam
_par excellence_—Colonel Gardner—Mirza Sulimān Sheko and his
fifty-two Children—The Forty Princesses—Mootee, the Pearl of
the Desert—Hunting Season at Papamhow—Jackals and Foxes—A
Suttee at Prāg—Report of a Suttee—An Ill-starred Horse 87

CHAPTER XI.

RESIDENCE AT PRĀG.

1829.

March to Benares—Misfortunes _en suite_—The Hummām of the
Rajah—Flowers of Wax and Ubruk—Return to Prāg—Storm _en
route_—Gram—A Central Government—Thieves, Domestic—Snake
in the Stable—Death in a Pālkee—Power of the Sun to change
the Sex—Lord William Bentinck—Half-Batta—The Jaws of the
Crocodile—The Clipper—Discontent of the Army—Recovery of the
Stolen Rupees—The Gosāin—Ram Din—The Ancient Temple 98

CHAPTER XII.

SKETCHES AT ALLAHABAD.

1829.

The Snake-charmer—Ram Leela—Board of Works—The Hukāk—Kurand
Patthar—Pebbles from the Soane and Cane Rivers—Raj
Ghāt—The Dhrumsāla—The Ginee—Temple of Hŭnoomān, Ram, and
Seeta—Ravuna the Giant—Bene-Māhadēo—The Adansonia—Little Jack
Bunce—Encampment of the Governor-General—Ashes of a Rajah
consigned to the Ganges—Christmas-boxes 107

CHAPTER XIII.

REMOVAL TO CAWNPORE—CONFESSIONS OF A THUG.

1830, _January_.

Removal to Cawnpore—Failure of Messrs. Palmer and Co.—An
Appointment at Cawnpore—Removal from Allahabad—The Mowa
Tree—Futtehpore—Dead Body in a Well—The Kutcherry—Confessions
of a Thug 121

CHAPTER XIV.

RESIDENCE AT CAWNPORE.

1830, _March_.

The Iron-shod Lāthī—Coins of Sekunder al Sāni—Hindostanī
Song—The first Thermantidote—Dāk to Cawnpore—The
Barkandāz—The Station—Sand-storm—Indian Method of Washing the
Hair—Pukka Houses and Bungalows—The Ayha’s Revenge—Horses
Poisoned—The Isle of France—The Visionary Old Man—Influence
of Women in India—Gambling—Eating the Air—The Ayha’s
Trowsers—Darzees—Refuge of the Distressed—Signet-rings—The
Durwān—Ganges Water—Small-pox—Grass-cutters—Beauty of a Night
in India—Forgery—Qui hy?—Winged Ants and Bugs—The Moon—A
Set-to—Revenge of a Sā’īs—Soldiers in Hospital—Arrak—The
Chārpāī—A New Servant—Unpopularity of the Governor-General 132

CHAPTER XV.

THE THUG’S DICE.

1830, _October_.

The Thug’s Dice—Execution of Eleven Thugs 151

CHAPTER XVI.

RESIDENCE AT CAWNPORE—THE DEWĀLĪ.

1830, _October_.

Aghā Meer the Nawāb—Elephants Swimming the Ganges—Cashmere
Goats—Discontent of the Soldiers—Buffaloes—Methodism—Desertion
of Soldiers to Runjeet Singh—Marks of Age on Stud-bred
Horses—Abolition of Sŭtēē—Pilgrim Tax—The Dewālī—The
Phŭlŭ-hŭrēē Festival—Arrival of Aghā Meer and his
Zenāna—Vicious Horses—Turquoise Mines in Persia—Lament
of the Hindoo Women—Burning the Dead—The Mug Cook—Brutal
Punishment—Plagues of Egypt—Conversion of Hindoo Women—The
Races—The Riding School—Kishmish Bakhshish—Apples and Grapes
from Cabul—Arab Merchants 159

CHAPTER XVII.

SCENES IN OUDE.

1831, _January_.

New Year’s Day—Meeting of the King of Oude and the
Governor-General—Visit of Lord William Bentinck to Lucnow—A
Native Christian—Elephant, Tiger, Buffalo, and Bear
Fights—Constantia—Beautiful Buildings—Departure of the
Governor-General—The Padshāh Bāgh—The Royal Hummām—The King’s
Stables—The Party at the Residency—Dil-Kushā—Zoffani’s
Picture—Doves released from Captivity—The Menagerie—A Zenāna
Garden—Letter of Introduction to the Begams at Delhi—Gardner’s
Horse—The Sorrows of the Begam 173

CHAPTER XVIII.

REVELATIONS OF LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA.

1831.

Pedigree of the Kings of Oude—Lucnow Mohurs—Anniversary of the
Coronation—The Prime Minister—Khema-jah—Feredooa Buckht—Evil
Omens—Mossem-ood-Dowla—Largesse—Hārs, Pān, and Atr—The
Zenāna—Sultana Boa—Mulka Zumanee—Gosseina—Tajmahŭl—Plurality of
Wives 186

CHAPTER XIX.

THE RETURN TO ALLAHABAD—EXECUTION OF TWENTY-FIVE THUGS.

1831, _February_.

Removal to Allahabad—Crocodiles—Aurunzebe’s Fort—The Old
Well at Kurrah—Arrival at Allahabad—The Thermantidote—The
King’s Picture and the Celestials—Pattū—Execution of
Twenty-five Thugs—Cholera—The Effect on the Insane—The
Arabian Leprosy—Elephantiasis—Asylums for the Blind and for
Lepers—Lachhmī, the Goddess of Prosperity—Intense Heat—Early
Rising—Danger of a Thermantidote—List of Servants 196

CHAPTER XX.

SCENES AT ALLAHABAD—PILGRIMAGE TO THE TRIVENI.

1831, _July_.

The old Brahman—The Triveni—The Achivut—The Pātal
Pooree—Temples of Bhardoajmun—Radha Krishnŭ—Hindoo Oath—The
Tulsī—The Peepul-tree—Skeleton Leaves—Lamps in the
Air—Paintings on Ubruk—Impressions on Leaves and Flowers—The
Mootee Musjid—The Crows a Pest—Byā Birds—Haymaking—The
Silver Tankard—An Earthquake—Transferring Diseases to
Flowers—Perjury—Farming Operations—Oats—Bhoodder Ram the
Dwarf—The Camel—The Powder Works and Rocket Manufactory 212

CHAPTER XXI.

LIFE IN THE ZENANA.

1832, _February_.

Devotees at the Great Fair—Wild Ducks—Quail Shooting—Price of
English Hounds—Colonel Gardner—Life in the Zenāna—The Grass
Cutter—Dūb Grass—The Gram-grinder—The Chakkī—Jack Fruit—Duty
of a Sā’īs—Arrangement of a Turban—The young Princes of
Lucnow—Archery—Indian Bows and Arrows—Whistling Arrows—The
Bows, Arrows, and War Hatchet of the Coles—The Pellet
Bow—Witchcraft practised with a charmed Bow 227

CHAPTER XXII.

ADVENTURES IN THE EAST.

1832, _May_.

Gaiety of Allahabad—Lucnow Chutnee—Tails of the Yāk—Horn
of the Unicorn—The Looking-glass Shawl—The First Flight of
Locusts—An Adventure—The Rats’ Granary—Balls—Profiles—The Leaf
Grasshopper—Appointed to Allahabad—Ramohun Roy—The Bottle of
Horrors—Narrative of a Thug—The Quicksand—Meteors and Falling
Stars—Hanging oneself for spite—The Sipahī Guard—The Ghurī—The
Sitar—The Ektara—The Gynee Club—Soonghees—Colonel Gardner 238

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE GREAT FAIR AT ALLAHABAD.

1833, _January_.

Booths at the Fair—Diamonds, Pearls, Shawls, Sable,
Coral—The Triveni—Suicide—Religious Mendicants—The Sacred
Ginī—Consecration of an Idol—Household Gods—Rosaries—Pilgrims,
Carriers of Holy Water—Snakes—Arrival of Lady William
Bentinck—Visit to the Fair—Description of the
Frontispiece—Chamelee, the Brahmanical Bull 253

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE NUT LOG.

1833, _February_.

The Hounds—A Gumuki—The Eade—Trelawny—The Rev. J. Wolff—The
Nut Log—Balancing Goat—Sirrākee Grass—A Dividend—Ear-rings
of Jasmine—A Rat given to a Cow—The Mādār—Enamelled
Grasshoppers—The Shaddock—The Agra Gun—Corruption of
Words—Variegated Locusts—Beautiful Flowers 267

CHAPTER XXV.

THE CHOLERA.

1833, _August_.

Hindū Method of Frightening away the Cholera recommended to
the Faculty—Death of the Darzee—Necromancy—The New Moon—A Bull
laden with the Pestilence—Terror of the Natives—The Pathan—An
Earthquake—Sola Hats—Importation of Ice from America—Flight of
Locusts—Steam Navigation—The Civil Service Annuity Fund—The
Bāghsira—Rajpūt Encampment—Hail Storm—Delights of the Cold
Weather 280

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE MUHARRAM.

1834, _May_.

The Imāms the Leaders of the Faithful—The Muharram—The
Procession—The Banners—The Band—The Sword-bearer—The
Mourners—Dhul Dhul—The Reader—The Fakīr—The Taziya—Tomb of
Kasim—Palkī and Trays of Mehndi—Charkh-charkhī Wālā—The
Bihīshtī—Camels—Elephants and Charity—The Chameleon—The
Ghirgit—An Alligator—The Tiger on his Travels—A well-educated
Snake—Indian Fevers—Depression of Spirit 293

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE BRAHMANICAL THREAD.

1834, _June_.

The Janao—The Fakir—The Fair—Pūja of the Cow—Cusa
Grass—The Flying Fox—Air Plants—Musk Deer—Nāg-panchamī—The
Snake—The Pinnace—City of Allahabad—The Pillar in the
Fort—Sealing-wax—Butea Frondosa—The Dewālī—The Bower—Climbers
and Creepers—The Humming Birds—The Pellet Bow—White
Ants—Chintz—The Horseradish Tree—The Ichneumon—The Garden—The
Bouquet—Cold Mornings for Hunting—The Moustache 304

CHAPTER XXVIII.

PILGRIMAGE TO THE TĀJ.

1834, _December_.

The Seagull—The Patelī—Chapātīs—Sujawan Deota—Burriaree
Rocks—Thieves—Parbosa—Temple of Parisnāth—Darogahs—Utility
of a Pellet-bow—The Cane River—The Leak—A
Storm—Kalpee—Belaspoor—Alligators in their own
Wildernesses—River Shells—Passage through the Rocks—A
Pilot—Badowra—Fossil-bones—The Chumbal River—Bhurrage—Burning
the Dead—A Woman Drowned—Cutting through a Sandbank on a Chain
Cable—A Leak—White Ants—Picturesque Scenes—A Tufān—The Mem
Sāhiba’s Speech—River Dogs—Presents of Sweetmeats 321

CHAPTER XXIX.

PILGRIMAGE TO THE TĀJ.

1835, _January_.

Etaweh—Moonlight Ride—The Wolves—Bird-catchers—Peacocks—The
Bar of Sand—The Good Luck of the Mem Sāhiba—Narangee
Ghāt—Betaizor—The Silk-cotton Tree—Fields of the
Cotton Plant—The Chakwā Chukwaee—Eloquence of a
Dhobee—Aladīnpoor—Noon, or Loon—Modelling in Khuree—Cotton
Boats—The Ulāk—Vessels on the River—Plantations of the Castor
Oil Plant—Cutting through a Sandbank—First Sight of the
Tāj—Porcupines—Bissowna—Quitted the Pinnace—Arrival at Agra 336

CHAPTER XXX.

THE TĀJ MAHUL.

1835, _January_.

The Tāj Mahul—Arzumund Bānoo—Shāhjahān—The Screen—The
Echo of the Dome—Momtâza Zumâni—Her Sons and
Daughters—Asaf-jāh—Noormāhul—Ruins of the second Tāj—Offerings
at the Shrine—The Wall—The Kālūn Darwāza—The Fountains—Melā
of the Eed—The Burj—The Jāmma Khāna—The Masjid—The Bāo’lī—Tomb
and Masjid of the Fathīpooree Begam—Tomb of the Akbarābādee
Begam—Ground-plan of the Tāj—The Minarets—Stones used in the
Mosaic—Tomb of the Simundee Begam—The Sitee Khanam—A Farewell
to the Tāj 348

CHAPTER XXXI.

PLEASANT DAYS IN AGRA.

1835, _February_.

The Fort—The Mosque of Pearl—The Jahāngeeree
Mahul—Mher-ul-Nissa—Selīm Ghar—The Palace in the Fort—The
Dewanī Khas—Noor-jahān Burj—Zenāna Masjid—The Shīsha-Mahal—Hall
of Audience—The Vault of Secret Murder—The Black Marble
Slab—The Throne of Akbar—The Steam Baths—The Worship of the
Rising Sun—View from the Bridge of Boats on the Jumna 360

CHAPTER XXXII.

REMARKABLE BUILDINGS AROUND AGRA.

1835, _February_.

The House of the Wuzeer—The Jāma Masjid—Tomb of
Jahānārā Begam—The Tripolia—The Mahookma Masjid—The
Madrissa—Etmad-od-Doulah—Cheen-ke-Masjid—Rām Bagh—Syud
Bagh—Secundra—The Chamber of Gold—Miriam Zemānee—Kos Minārs 370

CHAPTER XXXIII.

REVELATIONS OF LIFE IN THE ZENANA.

1835, _February_.

Invitation to Khāsgunge—Kutchowra—The Zenāna—A Timoorian
Princess—Opium-eating—Native Dishes—The Evening Party—The
Beautiful Begam—Musalmanī Attire and Ornaments—Timūr-lung—Gold
and Silver Beds—Atr of various sorts—Perfume of the Body of the
Prophet—Dye for the Hands and Feet—Churees 378

CHAPTER XXXIV.

LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA, AND CHĪTĀ HUNTING.

1835, _February_.

Plurality of Wives—Intrigues and Hatred—Arrival at
Khāsgunge—The Four Walls—Arwarī Shooting—The Pūtlī-nāch—The
Lynx—Introduction to Colonel Gardner’s Begam—The Morning
Star—The Evening Star—The Nawab of Cambay—The Beautiful
Gardens—The Bara Deri—Rattler—Chītā Hunting—Antelopes—The Sulky
Chītā—Heera Sing—Chītā Hunting attended by Native Ladies 390

CHAPTER XXXV.

FATHIPOOR SICRI AND COLONEL GARDNER.

1835, _March_.

Pilgrimage of Akbar Shāh to Fathīpoor Sicri—Shaikh Selīm
Cheestie—The Jodh Bā’ī—Birth of Selīm—The Tomb of the Saint—The
Gateway—A Tradition—The Temple of Magic—The Zenāna—The Pachīsī
Board—The Mint—Akbārābādee Rupees and Gold Mohurs—The Elephant
Minār—A Child destroyed by a Wolf—Tomb of the Jodh Bā’ī—Agra
built by Akbar—Sketches of Remarkable Living Characters in
India—Legality of a Marriage between a Christian and one of the
Faithful—Colonel Gardner’s Letter—Letter of Colonel Tod—Insult
offered by Holkar—Colonel Gardner’s Marriage—Tomb of Colonel
Hessing—Cure of Influenza within the Four Walls—Death in a
Steam-Bath 401

CHAPTER XXXVI.

THE MARRIAGE.

1835, _March_.

Pedigree of the Bride and Bridegroom—Reports concerning the
Beauty of the Bride—Anxiety of English Gentlemen to marry
into Colonel Gardner’s Family—Mirza Unjun Shekō—The First
Procession—The Bride’s Dress—Necessity of Weeping—The Oily
Mixture—Strict Seclusion—Dress of the Bridegroom—The Oily
Mixture complimentary—The Hoolī—Bridal Songs—The Sāchak—The
Bridegroom’s Procession—Nāch Girls on Platforms—The Menhdi—The
Grand Display in the Bride’s Procession—The Parda—The
Prince dyed with Hinnā—Midnight the Fashionable Hour for
Dinner—Wedding Dishes—Silvered Food—Conclusion of the Day—Mr.
James Gardner—Mulka Begam highly respected; her will is law 420

CHAPTER XXXVII.

THE BURĀT.

1835, _March_.

The Bridegroom fights for his Bride—The Grand
Procession—Superstition of the Prince—Bridal Attire—The
Bride’s Consent—Signing the Contract—The Nose-ring—Dress of
the Bride—The Prince enters the Zenāna—He beholds his Bride—He
carries her off—Colonel Gardner’s Distress—Fanī Bhū’a—The
Bride’s Dower carried in Procession with the newly-married
Couple to the Prince’s Tents—A Singular Custom—Pān 437