Chapter IV: Part 4

The New Forest of the present day forms a triangle about 20 miles long and 12 broad, of which the base is a line drawn westward from the mouth of the Beaulieu river to within a mile or two of the Avon, the apex reaching to the confines of Wiltshire. The forest scenery is extremely diversified, but always very beautiful; glades and reaches of gentle park and meadow, and open heath-like stretches, contrast wonderfully with the actual masses of huge beeches, under some of which daylight never penetrates.

Lyndhurst, the little capital of the New Forest, is situated in its centre, and is one of the best points from which to explore the beauties of the district. The church at Lyndhurst is modern, rebuilt in 1863; but it should be visited in order to see the large altar-fresco of the Ten Virgins executed by the late Lord Leighton. A little way beyond the church is the Queen's House, built in Charles II.'s reign. Here resides the Deputy-Surveyor, who administers under the Crown, while six elected Verderers, in their courts of Swain-mote, represent the Commoners. In the hall is kept what is known as William Rufus's stirrup-iron.

Close to the village of Minsted is Malwood Lodge, Sir William Harcourt's New Forest seat. From a ridge near this there are grand views of the forest, till one comes to the Compton Arms Hotel, a completely isolated inn, near the Rufus Stone, which marks the spot where William II. fell by the arrow of Walter Tyrell.

THE RUFUS STONE IN THE NEW FOREST.

Marking the spot where William II. fell by Walter Tyrell's arrow.]

OSBORNE HOUSE

=How to get there.=--Train from London Bridge or Victoria. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Cowes. =Distance from London.=--87 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 4 to 5-1/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 16s. 0d. 10s. 5d. 8s. 10d.
Return 27s. 10d. 18s. 2d. 16s. 4d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--Cowes--"Fountain Hotel," "The
Gloster," "Royal Marine Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=--Train from Waterloo _via_ Southampton. L. and
S.W. Railway.

Osborne House having been presented to the nation by King Edward, portions of the buildings and grounds are, or will be, available to the public on week days.

This stately marine residence of the late Queen Victoria is situated in the Isle of Wight, an island remarkable for the variety and beauty of its scenery. The Queen purchased the estate in 1845 from Lady Elizabeth Blachford, and the palace was finished in 1851. Since that time many additions have been made. The main gates are about three-quarters of a mile up the hill from the ferry, and the Prince of Wales's Gate further south, opposite the hotel. Osborne House has a melancholy interest attached to it, for here, on January 22, 1901, Queen Victoria breathed her last. A portion of every year was spent by the Queen at her seaside home, which had many associations of her happy life there with her husband, the late Prince Consort, "Albert the Good." Surrounded with their children, they forgot the splendours and fatigues of Court, and devoted themselves to training their family in all that was useful and good. The Queen nearly always spoke of Osborne as "her island home." She and Prince Albert delighted in the fact that it was their own, that they could make their own plans, exercise their own taste in the laying out of the gardens, and in the building--in fact, in everything in this seaside home. The building is in the Palladian style, and was designed by Thomas Cubitt and the late Prince Consort. The grounds, covering 5000 acres, are 8 miles in extent, with a sea front of 1-1/3 miles. The terrace gardens are ornamented with statuary, and the grounds lead down to the water's edge, where there are sea baths and a private pier. The last journey of Victoria the Good from Osborne to the mausoleum at Frogmore, in the grounds of Windsor Castle, was a spectacle never to be forgotten.

OSBORNE HOUSE.

Built by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1851.]

CARISBROOKE CASTLE

=How to get there.=--Train from Victoria or London Bridge _via_ Portsmouth and Ryde. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Carisbrooke. =Distance from London.=--88 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 3-1/2 to 5-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 16s. 4d. 10s. 8d. 9s. 1d.
Return 28s. 4d. 18s. 6d. 16s. 8d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Red Lion Hotel," "Waverley Hotel,"
"Eight Bells Hotel," "Castle Hotel," "Temperance Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from Waterloo _via_ Cowes and Ryde.
L. and S.W. Railway.

Carisbrooke village is a charming place delightfully situated in the centre of the island. The castle (the charge for entering is 4d.) stands on a wooded hill at an elevation of 150 feet. The summit of the hill forms a level plateau about 20 acres in extent, all enclosed by the castle walls. Sir Walter Scott is said to have had this castle in his mind when writing _Marmion_. Beyond the great interest attached to the fact that it was here that Charles I. was confined, the castle does not figure very prominently in history. The fact, however, that this unfortunate monarch was imprisoned here in 1647 by the Parliament will be always sufficient to give its ancient walls and battlements a never-dying interest. When Charles was brought to the castle he was treated more as a guest than a prisoner, but after his attempted escape the king was much more closely watched and his pleasures curtailed. The story of the king attempting in vain to get through his bedroom window is known to all. Everything was in readiness, the details of rescue were all carefully prepared. Captain Titus and others of the guard had been won over to assist the king, and had King Charles negotiated the narrow window, in all probability the escape would have been a success. In 1650, the year after Charles I. was beheaded, Henry Duke of Gloucester and the Princess Elizabeth were brought to the castle. Shortly after her arrival the princess, who was of a sickly constitution, took a severe chill and was found one morning by her attendants lying dead on a couch. Queen Victoria had a beautiful monument erected to her memory in Newport Church. The Well House, where the water is drawn from the depth of 150 feet by a clever donkey and draw-wheel, is an interesting feature of the castle. Princess Beatrice is the present Governor of the Island.

Where Charles I. was imprisoned in 1647.]

LUTTERWORTH

THE HOME OF JOHN WYCLIFF

=How to get there.=--Train from Marylebone. Great Central Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Lutterworth. =Distance from London.=--90 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/4 to 3 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 12s. 4d. ... 7s. 0d.
Return 24s. 0d. ... 14s. 0d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Hind Hotel," "Denbigh Arms,"
"Fox," etc.

Situated in typical English midland scenery, the quiet little country town of Lutterworth rises from the surrounding undulating pasture-land. Here, in the beginning of the fourteenth century, when it was probably merely a fair-sized village, John Wycliff, the "Morning Star of the Reformation," and founder of the Lollards, was born. The main street slopes down the hill, beyond the houses, till it reaches the river side, where it is carried over the little river Swift on a small bridge.

A good proportion of the church, which is so closely associated with Wycliff, dates from the fourteenth century. It is a large building, with a tower and belfry stage, and four crocketed pinnacles. The tower was formerly surmounted by a wooden belfry, but this was destroyed by the great gale of 1703. The nave is lighted by a clerestory, and the aisles are divided by high arches. The church is built in Early Perpendicular style, but there is a good decorated window at the eastern end of the south aisle, where there used to be a Lady Chapel. The lower portions of the walls date from before the time of Wycliff. At the eastern end of the chancel are an aumbry and piscina. About thirty years ago the church was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott, when much new stone was inserted.

There are three interesting frescoes in the interior: one is believed to represent Queen Philippa asking Edward III. to give the living of Lutterworth to Wycliff. The roof of the nave is formed of fine woodwork of the Perpendicular period, but the pulpit, a splendid piece of fourteenth-century oak carving, claims the chief interest, being the same from which the great reformer preached. The base has been renewed, and the rest has been much repaired, but the same pulpit has been in use for more than 500 years. A fragment of Wycliff's cope or chasuble is preserved in a glass case in the vestry, but some doubt attaches to the origin of "Wycliff's chair," which seems of considerably later date.

It is a fine piece of fourteenth-century oak carving.]

COMPTON WYNYATES

=How to get there.=--Train from Euston. London and North-Western Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Kineton (5 miles from Compton Wynyates). =Distance from London.=--91-3/4 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2 to 3-3/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 14s. 4d. 9s. 0d. 7s. 8d.
Return 26s. 6d. 16s. 11d. ...

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--At Kineton--"Red Lion Hotel," "Swan Hotel." =Alternative Route.=--None.

Compton Wynyates, the seat of the Marquess of Northampton, is one of the most beautiful Tudor houses in England, and although Warwickshire is exceedingly rich in castles and fine old houses, it can show nothing to surpass this time-worn pile of red brick and stone. Though the moat, which was the outer guard of the place, has been partly filled in and converted into smooth lawns, one of the most romantic aspects of the house is to be seen across an angle of the watery enclosure. The buildings surround a quadrangle, the entrance being made through a beautiful Tudor gateway. In the spandrils of its archway are carved the arms of Henry VIII., with the griffin and greyhound for supporters and the royal crown above.

The house was built by Sir William Compton during the reign of Henry VIII., with the exception of some additions, including the great parlour panelled with oak, which dates from the days of Queen Elizabeth.

To touch on half the glories of this perfect Tudor house would occupy many pages of this book--its beautiful chapel with its curious carvings with the seven deadly sins represented as knights in armour, the great hall in which Henry VIII. was welcomed by Sir William Compton, the drawing-room with its fine plaster ceiling--all are so full of beauty and interest that they can merely be referred to here.

The situation of the house in a richly timbered hollow adds infinitely to its charm. The gardens, too, are of the beautiful type that one learns to expect in conjunction with so lovely a dwelling, while flowering creepers on the towers and on the gabled walls complete an ideal picture of all that is loveliest in an old English mansion.

Permission to see Compton Wynyates can only be obtained by a written application.

COMPTON WYNYATES.

The seat of the Marquess of Northampton, is one of the most beautiful mediaeval homes in England.]

KENILWORTH CASTLE

=How to get there.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Kenilworth. =Distance from London.=--99 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 15s. 3d. 10s. 2d. 8s. 1-1/2d.
Return 28s. 3d. 17s. 10d. 16s. 3d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Abbey Hotel," "King's Arms," "Castle Hotel," etc. =Alternative Route.=--None.

Kenilworth is a small town, situated midway between Coventry and Warwick, about 5 miles from either town. It is chiefly noted for the ruins of the famous castle, so celebrated from its association with Sir Walter Scott's romance. The castle was built in the reign of Henry I., the site having been granted to Geoffrey de Clinton, Lord Chief Justice of England. The fortress at one time belonged to Simon de Montfort, who imprisoned Henry III. and his son Edward during the War of the Barons. Edward II. also was forced to sign his abdication there. Queen Elizabeth gave the castle as a present to her favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who spent large sums in making great alterations and additions, and entertained the Queen on four different occasions. The memorable visit that has been described by Scott took place in 1575, when Dudley not only lodged Queen Elizabeth, her court, and 400 servants for seventeen days, but provided a series of pageants and festivities to please his royal mistress. During the Civil War the castle was taken by Cromwell and given by him to Colonel Hawkesworth and some other officers belonging to his army. They destroyed the place very much, draining the lake, besides pulling down walls and towers. The estate now belongs to the Earl of Clarendon, to whose ancestor, Lawrence Hyde, Earl of Rochester, it was given by Charles II. The only building which has still preserved its roof is the gatehouse, built by Robert Dudley. It is now used as a dwelling-house, and contains some beautiful panelling and also a wonderful chimney-piece. The rest of the castle is very ruined, but the remains are of great interest, being sufficient to convey an impression of the castle as it originally stood. Close to the parish church are the ruins of the priory, which was founded at the same time as the castle, by Geoffrey de Clinton. At the Dissolution it was completely destroyed, and only the gatehouse remains.

KENILWORTH CASTLE.

Where Queen Elizabeth was entertained for seventeen days by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester.]

BELVOIR CASTLE

THE SEAT OF THE DUKE OF RUTLAND

=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly. =Nearest Station.=--Grantham (7 miles from Belvoir Castle). =Distance from London.=--105-1/4 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2 and 2-3/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 15s. 10d. ... 8s. 9d.
Return 31s. 8d. ... 17s. 6d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Angel Hotel," etc., at Grantham. =Alternative Route.=--None.

Belvoir Castle, the Leicestershire seat of the Duke of Rutland, stands on a lofty eminence, commanding a magnificent view over the rich vale of Belvoir. It was originally founded by Robert de Todeni, a Norman noble, and a standard-bearer to William the Conqueror. In the reign of Henry III. the property passed to Robert de Roos, and in the time of Henry VIII. to the family of Manners, who have held it ever since. The building suffered much damage during the Wars of the Roses and the Parliamentary Civil War. James I. was entertained there in 1603, on his way from Scotland to London, by Roger, the fifth Earl. In 1814, George IV., then Prince Regent, visited the castle, in commemoration of which one of the towers was named Regent Tower. In 1816, alterations were being carried out in the interior, under the direction of James Wyatt, the architect, when a fire broke out and almost entirely destroyed the castle. The picture gallery and the grand staircase perished utterly, and the damage was reckoned at £120,000. The final restoration was completed by Matthew Wyatt, who succeeded in building one of the finest palaces in the length and breadth of England. One of the features of the mansion is a magnificent picture gallery in which hang priceless works by Nicolas Poussin, Claude, Murillo, Reynolds, Gainsborough, and other old masters. The name "Belvoir" is derived from the magnificent prospects lying around it in all directions, the view extending over the level country for 30 miles; more than 170 towns and villages are visible within its horizon. The castle is situated in the midst of a fine sporting country, the Belvoir hounds being one of the finest packs in the country.

Near the mansion, and below it, are some remains of a priory also founded by the Norman owner, Robert de Todeni, about 1076. This priory was dedicated to St. Mary, and was annexed to the Abbey of St. Albans.

BELVOIR CASTLE.

It was originally founded by Robert de Todeni, a standard-bearer to William the Conqueror.]

BATH

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly. =Nearest Station.=--Bath. =Distance from London.=--107 miles. =Average Time.=--2-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 17s. 10d. 11s. 2d. 8s. 11d.
Return 31s. 3d. 19s. 6d. 17s. 10d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Empire Hotel," "Pulteney Hotel,"
"York House Family Hotel," "Royal Station Hotel," "Railway
Hotel," "Waldron's Private Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=--Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway.

Bath, one of the largest towns in Somersetshire, is beautifully situated on the Avon in a wooded valley in the north-east of the county. The city is of great antiquity, and was one of the most powerful Roman stations, being at the intersection of two very important roads,--the Fosse Way, which extended from the coast of Devonshire to the north-east coast of Lincolnshire, and the Via Julia, the great road between London and Wales. The story of the British king Bladud and his connection with Bath is immortalised in the _Pickwick Papers_, but is more or less legendary; however, as to the greatness of the city during the Roman occupation there is ample evidence. Even in those times the great natural feature of the place was its mineral waters, and in the first century the Romans built some luxurious baths there, and now the extensive remains have made the place notable. The Saxons quaintly named the city _Akeman Ceaster_, or town of invalids.

In the original Abbey Church took place the coronation of King Edgar as King of England by the famous St. Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury. This church stands on the site of the old conventual church, on the spot where once stood the Roman temple of Minerva. It was rebuilt in the fifteenth century by Bishop Oliver King, and completed by Bishop Montague at the beginning of the seventeenth century. On the west front are sculptures representing the angels upon Jacob's Ladder, and the whole building teems with interest; but the original purity of its architecture has been much marred by faulty and ignorant restoration.

Till the middle of the eighteenth century Bath covered no larger area than that contained within the Roman walls, but Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark having conceived a great partiality for the place, and the medicinal quality of the waters being much advocated, the city rapidly grew in favour and size, until it reached its heyday in the time of Beau Nash and the Prince Regent.

THE RESTORED ROMAN BATH AT BATH.

The bases of the columns are chiefly untouched Roman work.]

BOSTON AND THE PILGRIM FATHERS

=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly. =Nearest Station.=--Boston. =Distance from London.=--107-1/4 miles. =Average Time.=--3 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 15s. 4d. ... 8s. 11d.
Return 30s. 8d. ... 17s. 10d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Peacock and Royal," "Red Lion" Hotels, etc. =Alternative Route.=--None.

The English Boston, which gave its name to the great American seaport, was at one time--although it is hard to believe--of as relatively great importance as its mighty namesake of to-day. In the time of Edward III. it was considered the third most important town in England, for during that reign it contributed no fewer than seventeen ships to the great fleet which was raised by Edward III. But Boston declined through its river--the Witham--becoming scarcely navigable for more than small ships, and after a time was placed on the list of decayed seaports. At the present time it should be mentioned that its trade is steadily reviving.

The town has a quiet, old-fashioned aspect, and many of its houses date from the days when the Pilgrim Fathers made their first attempt to leave England. The very first effort failed, through the treachery of the captain of the vessel in which they were to take passage. They suffered a month's imprisonment, but shortly afterwards made another attempt to get away from the coast on a Dutch ship. This was only partially successful, for William Brewster and a few others only, reached Amsterdam, the women and the rest of the party having fallen into the hands of a detachment of soldiers. Brewster, however, by untiring efforts got all the rest over to Holland.

It was in 1620 that the Pilgrim Fathers finally set out on their voyage to America. (See Index, Plymouth.) The greatest glory of Boston is "The Stump," the highly unsuitable name given to its magnificent church tower, 300 feet high, and a landmark all over the surrounding fen-lands and even out at sea. It seems strangely slight when one is standing within the tower and notices that no floor breaks the great sweep of walls for a great height. The large perpendicular windows also help to give an impression of frailty. The foundation stone, however, was laid as long ago as 1309, and the structure is not so many years younger.

From whence the Pilgrim Fathers sailed in the _Mayflower_.]

WARWICK

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Warwick. =Distance from London.=--108 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 15s. 3d. 10s. 2d. 8s. 1-1/2d.
Return 28s. 3d. 17s. 10d. 16s. 3d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Warwick Arms Hotel," "Woolpack
Hotel," "Globe Hotel," etc.

A charge of one shilling is made for admission to Warwick Castle, the gardens and state apartments being shown to visitors.

Warwick is a small but historic town, charmingly situated on the River Avon, and dominated by its castle, one of the very few baronial castles still remaining entire. The town was destroyed by the Danes, but it was rebuilt by King Alfred's Ethelfleda, who also built a fortress on an artificial mound, overlooking the river. By the orders of William I. the castle was enlarged, and afterwards given by the Conqueror to Henry de Newburgh, whom he made the first Earl of Warwick of the Norman line. The castle was of such strength that when, in the reign of Henry III., it became the property of Margery, sister of Thomas de Newburgh, she was informed that she would not be allowed to marry any one in whom the king had not great confidence. The castle afterwards passed into the hands of the Beauchamps, in whose family it remained until 1445, when the heiress, Anne, married Richard Neville, the "King-maker," who took the title of Earl of Warwick. The title without the estates was given by James I. to Robert, Lord Rich. The castle was given to Sir Fulke Greville, afterwards Lord Brooke. In 1759, when Edward Rich died without issue, Francis Greville was made Earl of Warwick, with whose descendants the estates have since remained. The entrance to the castle is along a winding road cut for more than 100 yards out of the solid rock. The castle as it now stands is a splendid specimen of the fourteenth-century stronghold built in the transition period, when the mere fortress was being superseded by a building of more grace and comfort. St. Mary's Church in Warwick was rebuilt in the reign of Queen Anne, the former church, built by Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, having been destroyed by fire in 1694. Guy's Cliff, situated 1-1/4 miles from Warwick, is a most picturesque spot, and is celebrated, according to tradition, as the retreat of Guy of Warwick.

A charge of threepence each person (no fee less than sixpence) is made, for admission to St. Mary's Church.

WARWICK CASTLE ON THE AVON.

One of the very few baronial castles still remaining entire.]

GLOUCESTER AND ITS CATHEDRAL

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly. =Nearest Station.=--Gloucester. =Distance from London.=--114 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 19s. 0d. 12s. 0d. 9s. 6d.
Return 33s. 3d. 21s. 0d. ...

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Bell Hotel," "New Inn Hotel," "The Wellington Hotel," and others. =Alternative Route.=--None.

Gloucester is one of the most thriving cities in the south of England. It has been a town of some description from quite early times, for the British had a fortress on the site which the Romans are believed to have occupied as a strong position on the road into Wales. The Danes repeatedly made incursions into this part of the country, and Gloucester suffered very much from their ravages; but probably through the fact that the kings of Mercia instituted a palace and priory there, the city seems to have had sufficient strength to recover after each disaster. Gloucester was even of sufficient importance for Edward the Confessor to have kept his courts there for a considerable time. Being in the west country, it naturally suffered severely during the parliamentary struggle, and a great portion of the city was destroyed. But although the town lost many of its old buildings at this time, it has still a good deal of antiquity to boast, and for this reason alone is attractive to the stranger. Its main streets are modelled on the Roman plan of a cross, the four arms bearing the names North, South, East and West-gate Streets.

The cathedral is not many minutes' walk from the railway station, and is remarkable for its influence upon the English architecture which succeeded it, for it directed the course of the curvilinear movement in the direction of the Perpendicular style of Gothic. After remaining uncopied for a few years, the new style spread over the length and breadth of England. The east window is remarkable as being one of the largest in the world. Portions of the cathedral may possibly date from pre-Norman days, but according to the records, the earliest date is 1088. The tower was completed in 1518, and is with the cloisters almost without equal in this country for beauty and perfection. The cathedral contains the tomb of Osric, King of Northumbria, which was recently opened and found to contain the bones within a wooden coffin.

GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL.

Showing the east window, which is one of the largest in the world.]

NORFOLK BROADS

=How to get there.=--Train from Liverpool Street. Gt. Eastern Rly. =Nearest Station.=--Norwich. =Distance from London.=--114 miles. =Average Time.--Varies between 2-1/2 to 4-1/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 20s. 6d. ... 9s. 5-1/2d.
Return 31s. 10d. ... 18s. 11d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--Norwich--"Royal Family Hotel,"
"Maid's Head." Yarmouth--"Royal," "Queen's," etc. Cantley--"Red
House Hotel." Brundall--"Yare Hotel."
=Alternative Route.=--To Norwich from King's Cross, Great Northern
Railway. Train to Great Yarmouth, Lowestoft, Beccles, Cantley,
Reedham, etc., from Liverpool Street, Great Eastern Railway.

The charm of the Norfolk Broads consists to a great extent in the fact that they present different scenery to almost any other county in England, although the salt marshes of Essex and Suffolk possess the family likeness obtaining throughout East Anglia. The Norfolk Broads occupy the stretch of country north of a line drawn between Norwich and Yarmouth, and both towns offer great advantages for getting into the Broad country. A "broad," it should be mentioned, is a local name for a shallow lake connected with others, and finally with the sea by such rivers as the Yare, the Bure, or Ant. These rivers and their various tributaries form excellent sailing grounds, for after tacking for some time in a rush-fringed river, one suddenly enjoys the contrast of a broad lagoon where there is plenty of space to sail more freely.

The separate characteristics of the different broads give a choice of surroundings capable of satisfying every one. Oulton Broad, for instance, is generally to be found full of smart yachts, while Heigham forms a contrast in its solemn loneliness. Wroxham Broad is always bright with white sails going to or from Surlingham, Rockland, or Salhouse Broads. The last mentioned a beautiful piece of water, the quieter portions of its surface being generally thick with yellow iris and purple loosestrife and many other species of water herb. It is shaded by trees, and makes charming pictures from many points of view. Crome, it is said, commenced a picture of this broad on the day of his death, and anticipated that it would be his best work.

Irstead is another beautiful broad surrounded by feathery reeds and thick with rushes where kingfishers and wild duck are to be found. The ruins of St. Benet's Abbey are an interesting feature along the river Bure. Within the monastic walls a windmill has been built, and this too is now an old ruin, having lost its sails many years ago.

AMONG THE NORFOLK BROADS.

A typical scene on one of the rivers connecting the broads.]

NORWICH CATHEDRAL

=How to get there.=--Train from Liverpool Station _via_ Colchester. Great Eastern Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Norwich. =Distance from London.=--114 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 4-1/4 hours. Quickest train 2 hours 32 minutes.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 20s. 6d. ... 9s. 5-1/2d.
Return 31s. 10d. ... 18s. 11d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Royal Family Hotel," "Maid's Head Hotel," "Bell Hotel," etc. =Alternative Route.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.

The city of Norwich has a unique charm from its combination of the mediaeval with the modern, and "improvements" so called have not spoilt it. The chief object of interest is the cathedral, which was founded in 1094 by Bishop Herbert Losinga, who was at one time prior at Fécamp in Normandy, and chaplain to William II. It is regarded as one of the greatest existing examples of Norman work, and has the finest cloisters in England. It is 411 feet long and 191 feet broad at the transepts, and is crowned with a spire second only to that of Salisbury. Near the cathedral are a number of ancient and interesting structures more or less in ruins. Chief of these may be mentioned St. Ethelbert's and the Erpingham Gate, by the west front of the cathedral, the former in Decorated English, the latter in Late Perpendicular, and both are valuable and rich specimens of these styles. It was Sir Thomas Erpingham whom Henry V. in Shakespeare's play addresses as "Good old Knight," and it was he who gave the signal to the English at the Battle of Agincourt, saying, as he threw up his truncheon, "Now, strike!"

Norwich occupies a place in history from the time of the earlier Danish invasions. First its castle was erected as a stronghold by the East Anglican kings, and resorted to as a place of safety by the inhabitants, who gave it the name of North-wic, or northern station or town. The bishopric of the East Angles was removed hither in 1094, when the magnificent cathedral was founded. Evelyn in his _Diary_ gives an account of a visit he paid to that famous scholar and physician, Dr. Thomas Browne, author of the _Religio Medici_ and _Vulgar Errors_, then living in Norwich. It is a pleasant picture of the fine old cathedral town which he gives. After seeing all the rare curiosities in Sir Thomas Browne's house, he was shown all the remarkable places of the city, and speaks of the "venerable cathedrall, the stately churches, and the cleannesse of the streetes."

NORWICH CATHEDRAL.

It was founded in 1094, and is considered one of the finest examples of Norman architecture.]

LICHFIELD

THE BIRTHPLACE OF DR. JOHNSON

=How to get there.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Lichfield. =Distance from London.=--118 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2 to 3-3/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 16s. 9d. 10s. 9d. 9s. 8-1/2d.
Return 33s. 6d. 21s. 5d. 19s. 5d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Swan Hotel," "George Hotel," etc.

Lichfield, though an ancient town, has now a modern appearance, but is interesting on account of its beautiful cathedral and its association with Dr. Johnson. The house where the "great lexicographer" was born is still to be seen in the market-place, very little altered from its original condition. Next to this house is the Three Crowns Inn, where Dr. Johnson and Boswell stayed when they visited Lichfield in 1776. Among the few old houses that are remaining are St. John's Hospital, rebuilt in 1495, and the Friary, part of an establishment of Grey Friars, now forming a portion of a private house.

Lichfield has been a bishop's see since Anglo-Saxon times, and among its earliest bishops was St. Chad, who advanced Christianity in England. For a short period Lichfield boasted an archbishop, during the reign of Offa, king of Mercia, who persuaded the Pope to grant his kingdom this honour. No trace of any Anglo-Saxon building is left, and of the Norman church that was next erected only the west part of the choir remains. The present cathedral, built in the Early English style of Gothic, was commenced about 1200, and was not finished until 1325, builders being employed all the time. Though numbered among the smaller cathedrals, Lichfield is very beautiful, possessing a great charm in the ruddiness of the stone used in its construction. Its most striking features are the three graceful spires, the sculptured west front, and the large Lady Chapel. Owing, unfortunately, to its being fortified, the cathedral suffered much damage when besieged by the Roundheads during the Civil War. Windows and statues were broken, brass stripped from the tombs, registers burned, but the worst calamity was the destruction of the central tower. After the Restoration the cathedral was carefully repaired, greatly due to the efforts of good Bishop Hacket, who spent his time and money upon the work. The central spire was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.

LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.

Showing the richly-sculptured west front, and the central tower rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.]

SHERBORNE AND ITS ABBEY CHURCH

=How to get there.=--Train from Waterloo, _via_ Salisbury. L. and S.W. Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Sherborne. =Distance from London.=--118 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 3-1/4 to 6 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 19s. 8d. 12s. 4d. 9s. 10d.
Return 34s. 6d. 21s. 6d. 19s. 8d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Digby Hotel," "Antelope," "Half
Moon," etc.

Sherborne is full of archaeological interest, for besides its wonderful Abbey Church, it has the ruins of its castle on a rocky height at the east end of the town and a good number of ancient houses. The town itself is situated on the side of a hill sloping down to the Yeo, and has a clean and quaint aspect. About 705, it was chosen as the seat of a bishopric. The see was removed to Old Sarum in 1078, but the castle continued to be used as an episcopal residence until it was besieged by Stephen, when it became Crown property. The Abbey Church of St. Mary the Virgin is Norman in origin, but it has been so rebuilt and remodelled that it is now practically Perpendicular. The whole church, with the exception of the Lady Chapel, was very carefully restored between 1848 and 1851.

Adjoining the Abbey Church, at the west end, are the remains of the parochial church of Alhalows, a three-aisled church in Decorated or Early Perpendicular style. The monks and the parishioners had many quarrels, one resulting in a fire which destroyed much of the abbey. The Abbey Church was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir John Horsley, who sold it to the parish for £250. There being no further use for Alhalows Church, it was taken down.

The exterior of Sherborne Church has been called unpicturesque, owing to its low central tower and insignificant pinnacles. It is, however, a huge building, and its interior is so richly decorated that it more resembles a cathedral than a parish church. It possesses the finest fan-vault in existence, covered with gilded bosses and heraldic arms. Contrasting with this wonderful richness of decoration are three plain Norman arches.

The nave is divided into five bays by panelled arches, the irregular widths of which are due to the fact that the Norman arches are cased in with Perpendicular work. The south transept has a wonderful roof of black Irish oak.

SHERBORNE ABBEY CHURCH.

It contains Norman work and some of the finest fan-vaulting in existence.]

NEWARK

=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly. =Nearest Station.=--Newark. =Distance from London.=--120 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 3-1/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 17s. 6d. ... 10s.
Return 35s. 0d. ... 20s.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"The Ram Hotel," "Clinton Arms,"
"Saracen's Head," "White Hart," "Swan and Salmon," etc.
=Alternative Routes.=--Train from Euston, _via_ Market Harboro',
L. and N.W. Railway. Train from St. Pancras, Midland Rly.

Newark-upon-Trent is believed by some antiquaries to have been built in Roman times; others state its origin to have been Saxon, but the first absolutely certain record of it is in the time of Edward the Confessor. The castle, which was built in the reign of Stephen, stands on the bank of the river, and on that side is still tolerably perfect. Of the interior nothing remains except the foundations of a great hall, probably built in later times than the rest of the fortress. A flight of steps leads from the hall to the crypt beneath, which has loop-holes looking towards the river. The eastern wall has disappeared, but those remaining are fairly intact. The architecture of the castle varies, part being Norman, and other portions dating from before the Parliamentary War. The space enclosed by the castle walls is now used for a bowling-green, and also as a large cattle-market.

During King John's reign the castle was besieged by the Barons, and John, coming to relieve them, was taken ill and died there in 1216. During the reign of Henry III. the fortress, which had been taken from the See of Lincoln by Stephen, was restored, and remained ecclesiastical property until the reign of Edward VI.

In the time of Charles I. the castle sustained several sieges. It was at Newark that Charles I. was deserted by his nephews Rupert and Maurice, after his defeat at Naseby. The king withdrew to Oxford at the approach of the Scots and Parliamentary armies, and Newark was besieged by the Scots. After the king's surrender in 1646, Newark was delivered up by his orders, and the fortifications, which were 2-1/4 miles long, were destroyed by the Parliamentary troops.

Newark Parish Church is built chiefly in the Perpendicular style, but contains some traces of Norman work. In the town there are also the remains of a chapel of an ancient hospital of the Knights Templars, some walls of an Augustine priory, and a Gothic cross.

NEWARK CASTLE.

King John died here, and in the Parliamentary War the castle underwent several sieges.]

WELLS AND ITS CATHEDRAL

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Wells. =Distance from London.=--120-3/4 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 3-3/4 to 5-3/4 hours.

=Fares.=--_Via_ Chippenham and Westbury.

1st 2nd 3rd Single 20s. 0d. 12s. 6d. 10s. 0-1/2d. Return 35s. 2d. 22s. 0d. 20s. 0d.

_Via_ Yatton--

Single 24s. 8d. 15s. 6d. 12s. 4d. Return 41s. 0d. 27s. 0d. 24s. 8d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Swan Hotel," "Mitre Hotel," "Star Hotel," etc. =Alternative Route.=--Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.

Wells is essentially an ecclesiastical town. It has no history of its own, no great family has ever lived there, and it has no manufactures,--it has simply grown up round the cathedral. For these reasons the quiet little Somersetshire town has preserved much of its antiquity and fascination. The presence of the natural wells, which still are to be found in the gardens of the Bishop's Palace, probably induced King Ina in 704 to found a college of secular canons. Here a monastery grew, and subsequently became a bishop's see. John de Villula transferred his seat to Bath in (_circa_) 1092, and in 1139 the title was altered to Bishop of Bath and Wells. Wells is one of the smallest of the English cathedrals, and is in many ways the most beautiful. The clear space in front emphasises the glorious way in which the three massive towers harmonise with the ruins of the Bishop's Palace, the remains of the Vicar's Close, and the chapter-house. The present building was commenced in 1121, but Bishop Joceline of Wells (1206-1242) rebuilt it from the middle of the choir to the west end. The Early English work shows considerable differences to that in Salisbury and Ely Cathedrals, being carried out by a local school of masons, who show considerable originality in design. The glory of Wells is centred in its west front. The deep buttresses on the towers cast shadows which only serve to show up the marvellous sculptured figures of saints and kings, which may represent a Te Deum in stone. The inside of the cathedral is remarkable for the inverted arches which were put in the chancel to support the towers. Bishop Beckington built the three arches to the close.

A charge of 6d. is made for admission to the choir of the cathedral.

WELLS CATHEDRAL.

Commenced in 1121, but chiefly rebuilt between 1206 and 1242. It is one of the smallest cathedrals in England.]

STRATFORD-ON-AVON

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SHAKESPEARE

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Stratford-on-Avon. =Distance from London.=--121-1/2 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 3 to 4-3/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 16s. 0d. 10s. 6d. 8s. 5d.
Return 29s. 3d. 18s. 6d. 16s. 10d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Red Horse Hotel," "Shakespeare Hotel," "Golden Lion Hotel," "Red Lion," etc. =Alternative Route.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.

Stratford-on-Avon, a picturesque town situated on the river Avon, in Warwickshire, is visited yearly by thousands of people desirous of seeing the birthplace of William Shakespeare. John Shakespeare, the father of William, bought the two half-timbered houses in Henley Street, where he practised his trade of wool-stapler, and it was in one of these houses that William Shakespeare was born in 1564. These houses are now practically in their original condition, although at one time the wool-shop was turned into an inn. The desk, said to have been used by Shakespeare when at school, is to be seen in the former wool-shop, now converted into a museum. The King Edward VI. Grammar School, to which Shakespeare went, occupies the first floor of the old Guildhall, built in the thirteenth century, but much altered in the fifteenth century. It was in this Guildhall that Shakespeare saw for the first time a theatrical performance given by travelling players. Close to the Guildhall is the site of New Place, which was bought by Shakespeare. Only the foundations of this house remain, as in 1753 the owner, the Rev. Francis Gastrell, being angry at having to pay some rates, was not content with cutting down the famous mulberry tree planted by the poet, but caused the whole house to be razed and the materials sold.

The Church of Holy Trinity, most beautifully situated on the river Avon, is cruciform in plan. In the chancel is Shakespeare's grave, with the stone slab having the well-known lines:--

GOOD FREND, FOR IESVS SAKE FORBEARE,
TO DIGG THE DUST ENCLOASED HEARE;
BLESTE BE YE MAN YT SPARES THES STONES,
AND CVRST BE HE YT MOVES MY BONES.

At Shottery, one mile from Stratford, is the half-timbered cottage where Anne Hathaway, the wife of Shakespeare, was born.

TRINITY CHURCH, STRATFORD-ON-AVON.

From the river. In the chancel is Shakespeare's grave.]

BURNHAM THORPE, NORFOLK

THE BIRTHPLACE OF NELSON

=How to get there.=--Train from Liverpool Street or St. Pancras. Great Eastern Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Burnham Market (1 mile from Burnham Thorpe). =Distance from London.=--122 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 19s. 10d. ... 10s. 3d.
Return 34s. 0d. ... 20s. 4d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Hoste Arms" at Burnham Market.

Burnham Thorpe, the native village of the great Admiral Nelson, is within walking distance of either Holkham, Burnham Market, or Wells-next-the-Sea. Horatio Nelson, the fourth son of Edmund and Catherine Nelson, was born on September 29, 1758, at the Parsonage House, which has unfortunately been pulled down. There are, however, many interesting relics of Nelson in the village church, and it is interesting to see the surroundings among which Nelson's childhood was passed. In the parish register may be seen the signature of Nelson as a witness to a marriage in the year 1769, when he was eleven years old. There is a lectern constructed from the wood of the old _Victory_, which was presented by the Lords of the Admiralty in 1881. The old Purbeck marble font in which Horatio was baptized is still to be seen in the church. How much Nelson loved his native village can be understood from his remark as the _Victory_ was going into action, "This is the happiest day of my life; what a happy day, too, for Burnham Thorpe, for it is the day of their fair."

Nelson's father was not by any means well off, and the question of providing for his sons was a very serious one. Horatio, however, solved the question as to his own career. At the Grammar School at Norwich, Nelson said to his brother, "Do, William, write to my father and tell him that I should like to go to sea with Uncle Maurice." Captain Maurice Suckling is said to have heard of Horatio's decision with some surprise, for he said, "What has poor Horatio done, who is so weak, that he, above all the rest, should be sent to rough it out at sea? But let him come, and the first time we go into action a cannon-ball may knock off his head and provide for him at once."

In January 1771, when at school at North Walsham, Nelson heard that he was to join the _Raisonnable_, of 64 guns, at Chatham. He was then only twelve years old.

BURNHAM THORPE CHURCH.

It still contains the old marble font in which Nelson was baptized.]

LULWORTH COVE, DORSETSHIRE

=How to get there.=--By rail from Waterloo Station. South-Western Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Wool, 5 miles. (Corfe Castle, Wareham, and Swanage are very convenient, though the drive is a little longer.) =Distance from London.=--126 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 3-1/2 to 5-1/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 21s. 0d. 13s. 2d. 10s. 6d.
Return 36s. 9d. 23s. 0d. 21s. 0d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Cove Hotel," West Lulworth.
"Banke's Arms Hotel" at Corfe Castle.
=Alternative Route.=--_Via_ Bournemouth. Train direct from Waterloo.
Steamers run once a week or oftener during the summer months
(weather permitting) to Swanage and Lulworth Cove.

The remarkable cove at West Lulworth consists of a completely circular basin, hollowed out of the bold cliffs of the southern coast-line of Purbeck Island. It is of sufficient depth to allow small ships of from sixty to eighty tons to enter. The narrow opening to the cove is between two bluffs of Portland stone, forming a portion of what was the barrier to the sea in former times. Once, however, did the waves eat through the Portland stone in this place, it was easy work to gradually batter down and wash out, through the narrow opening, a circular bay from the soft strata of Hastings sands lying in the protection of the Portland stone. On the west side of the cove one may notice rocks with such peculiarly contorted strata as those shown in the foreground of the illustration opposite.

A most interesting and rugged portion of the coast lies to the west of Lulworth Cove. After leaving the coastguard signal station one reaches Stair Hole, a cavity walled off from the sea by Portland limestone. At high tide, however, the sea enters the chasm through a number of small apertures, and is probably carving out at this spot a circular basin after the manner of Lulworth Cove. Passing Dungy Head and Oswald or Horsewall Bay, with its towering chalk cliffs, one reaches a low promontory known as Tongue Beach. It is formed of layers of limestone tilted into curved or perpendicular positions. Crossing this promontory one enters Durdle Bay, with the Barndoor, an archway 30 feet high, in a massive cliff.

At East Lulworth, a little way inland from the cove, stands Lulworth Castle, an imposing-looking building with circular towers at each corner. It was built about three hundred years ago on the site of an earlier castle.

The circular basin has been eaten out of the sandy soil after the sea had cut an opening in the Portland stone which forms the actual coast-line at this point.]

CORFE CASTLE

IN THE ISLE OF PURBECK, DORSETSHIRE

=How to get there=.--By rail from Waterloo Station. South-Western Railway. =Nearest Station.=--Corfe Castle--quite close to the ruins. =Distance from London.=--130 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 3 to 5 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 21s. 2d. 13s. 3d. 10s. 7d.
Return 37s. 0d. 23s. 3d. 21s. 2d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.= "The Banke's Arms Hotel." =Alternative Route.=--_Via_ Bournemouth and steamer to Swanage.

Corfe Castle on its great hill, with the little hamlet which goes by the same name which clusters at its foot, is one of the most spectacular of the ruined fortresses to be found in Southern England. At the periods of the year when there are no strangers in the village, the ruins and the village leave an impression on the mind which is not so palpable when there are the distractions caused by other visitors. But even then, the grand view across the wild downs forming the backbone of the island of Purbeck, over which one gazes from the shattered towers and curtain walls, is sufficiently memorable. Its position, commanding the whole Purbeck range of hills, made the spot famous in Saxon days, when it was known as Corfe Gate. Shortly after the days of Alfred the Great the hill was strongly fortified by King Edgar, who made it his residence and probably built the central keep, whose ruins still crown the summit of the hill. Edgar left the castle to his widow Elfrida, whose name has been handed down as the murderer of her stepson Edward--afterwards named Edward the Martyr. He visited Corfe Castle in order to see his brother, but while drinking a goblet of wine in the gateway between the two circular towers shown in the illustration, he was stabbed by command of Elfrida. During the civil war between Stephen and Maud, the fortress defied all attempts to take it by Stephen's adherents; and up to the struggle between Charles I. and his Parliament, when for a space of six weeks Lady Bankes held the castle with a handful of retainers, Corfe Castle has figured prominently in English history.

The village is almost entirely composed of cottages whose stone walls and thick slate roofs are beautifully mellowed by the hand of time. Nowhere does there appear anything new to jar with the silver greys and the grey greens of the old cottages, the church, and the castle ruins.

A charge of sixpence each person is made for admission to the castle.

Showing on the left the massive round towers flanking the gateway, where, in Saxon times, Edward is said to have been stabbed by command of his stepmother, Elfrida.]

LINCOLN AND ITS CATHEDRAL

=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly. =Nearest Station.=--Lincoln. =Distance from London.=--130 miles. =Average Time.=--Varies between 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 18s. 10d. ... 10s. 9d.
Return 37s. 8d. ... 21s. 6d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Great Northern Hotel," and others.
=Alternative Routes.=--Train from Marylebone, Great Central Railway.
Train from Liverpool Street, Great Eastern Railway. Train
from St. Pancras, _via_ Nottingham, Midland Railway.

Lincoln stands on a hill surrounded by level country. First a British settlement, it became a Roman colony. In 1074 the decree that all bishoprics should be in fortified places caused the removal of the See of Dorchester to Lincoln. Even at this time Lincoln was an important commercial town. Many parliaments have been held in its chapter-house, and Henry VII. offered his thanksgivings after Bosworth in the cathedral.

The mighty fane, with its three massive towers, rises majestically over the red roofs of the town. Its most striking feature is the great Norman screen, running up without buttresses or projections to the parapet and hiding the bases of the square, richly decorated towers of the west front. The plain centre of the screen is the work of Remigius, the first bishop. The rest of it is relieved with rich arcading of Late Norman and Early English periods. The wooden spires which crowned the towers were removed in 1807.

In 1192 Hugh of Avalon determined to rebuild the Norman building of Remigius, which an earthquake had shaken. To him we owe the choir and eastern transept. His successors completed the western transept and began the west end of the nave. So much money had to be spent in rebuilding the central tower, which fell in 1239, that the canons could not rebuild the nave entirely, but had to incorporate the Norman end by Remigius. Unfortunately the axis of the west front does not correspond to that of the nave, which is too wide for its height. The low vaulting is a serious defect in the choir built by St. Hugh, but of the superb beauty of the Angel Choir, which encloses his shrine, there can be no doubt. In its richness of sculpture it is one of the masterpieces of Gothic architecture in England. The interior of the cathedral is remarkable for the harmony of its style, which is Lancet-Gothic, and the dim lighting of the nave only adds to its impressiveness.

LINCOLN CATHEDRAL.

The original Norman building was built by Remigius, but the structure having been weakened by an earthquake shock, Hugh of Avalon in 1192 built the Choir and Eastern Transept, and his successors finished the work.]

SOMERSET, THE BIRTHPLACE OF TENNYSON

=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly. =Nearest Station.=--Horncastle (6 miles from Somersby). =Average Time.=--from 3 to 4-1/2 hours. =Distance from London.=--130 miles.

1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=--Single 18s. 4d. ... 10s. 10d.
Return 36s. 8d. ... 21s. 8d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--No inn at Somersby. Paying guests
accommodated at Baumber's Manor House at Somersby. Hotels
at Spilsby.