Chapter VI: Part 6

The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile, some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young, Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle, etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction. The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it, I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff. When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek, easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson, hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land rather than as an island.

Tuesday, May 11

The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs, which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed, it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.

Wednesday, May 12

Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour. Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at 12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed. The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart, and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at the junction.

At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200 wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.

He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we were in latitude 41° 9' 44".

Thursday, May 13

This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from north and northeast.

At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs, but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.

Friday, May 14

The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles is perfectly flat and very level without timber.

The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs, and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around. President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day, which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses, but we had no further trouble about them.

I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after being told how to do it. What little souls work.

Saturday, May 15

This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night, but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles. We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated. About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.

Sunday, May 16

Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them. About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away, and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell, and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at 5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham, Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed. About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from Winter Quarters is marked at 356¾ miles. I have also written on it that the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches thick.

After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.

Monday, May 17

The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company. The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.

We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther, we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked. We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course. On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance. After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent. However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current. The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land. They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning, six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses (in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all was well again. Latitude 41° 12' 50".

At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others, one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it. About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo, one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50 p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance opposite this place. Latitude 41° 13' 20".

Tuesday, May 18

The morning fine and very pleasant. At seven o'clock the President called the captains of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe lecture. He referred to some who had left meat on the ground and would not use it because it was not hind quarter. Some would murmur because a fore quarter of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right, for God has given us a commandment that we should not waste meat, nor take life unless it is needful, but he can see a disposition in this camp to slaughter everything before them, yea if all the buffalo and game there is on our route were brought together to the camp, there are some who would never cease until they had destroyed the whole. Some men will shoot as much as thirty times at a rabbit if they did not kill it, and are continually wasting their ammunition, but when they have used all they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying their empty guns to the mountains and back, for he will not furnish them. We have now meat enough to last some time if we will take proper care of it. As to the horsemen, there are none with the exception of Brothers Kimball, Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the trouble to look out a good road for the wagons but all they seem to care about is to wait till their breakfast is cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they mount their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope comes across the track, the whole of us must be stopped perhaps half an hour while they try to creep up near enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place on the route, all the interest they have is to get across the best they can and leave myself and one or two others to pick out a crossing place and guide the camp all the time. Such things are not right, and he wants them to cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the camp, be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from God and not as a stink offering from the devil. It is not necessary to preach to the elders in this camp, they know what is right as well as he does, and he will not preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the best they know how and teach their men to do likewise. The meeting dispersed, the meat was taken care of and at a quarter past eight we started out again, and traveled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course over a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived at a nice stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or twenty-five feet wide, a foot or 18 inches deep and a very strong current. This stream must take its rise some distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many strong springs, for there is much water comes down it. We traveled on from this near the bank of the river about a northwest course over tolerably rough land till 11:10 and then stopped to feed having come six and a half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Opposite the stream last mentioned on the south side the river, are several pine groves, or rather cedar groves. There is some little pine wood, such as knots and dead branches that can be picked up on the banks of the river. It has floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips, makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41° 3' 44". Rattlesnake creek was so named from the following incident: President Young, as he rode up to the banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned his horse away without harming it. Soon afterward, one of the brethren came up on foot and stepped within two feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up and sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang 2½ feet) had he not jumped to one side. He took his rifle and shot the snake dead.

The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont, is three miles west of where we camped last night. At 1:05 p.m. we continued our journey. Our route lay near the banks of the river which seems narrower here. After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a stream about six feet wide, and three quarters of a mile farther another stream of tolerably deep, clear water about five feet wide. This stream is very crooked and seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this afternoon, we discovered some dog towns, the grass eaten perfectly bare all around. The feed is growing worse again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At noon, a heavy black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain, accompanied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing the last mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change our course to nearly northwest on account of a bend in the river. We traveled till 5:30 and formed our encampment on the west bank of a running stream about eight feet wide and one foot deep which is five miles from the crooked creek, making our afternoon's travel nine and a quarter miles and the day's travel fifteen and three quarters. The bluffs and the river here are about a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor, plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The weather calm and warm, though cloudy. After encampment was formed, went with Elder Orson Pratt to Dr. Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it, assisted by Elder Pratt's observations. He handed me Fremont's map, and I retired to my wagon to commence operations, but soon found that the map does not agree with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then proposed to Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the journey and take all the necessary data and then make a new one instead of making our route on Fremont's. The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark Colonel Markham called the camp together to tell the brethren their duty in regard to traveling, guarding teams, and standing guard at nights. The old laws of April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws added, but not being present I did not hear them, neither can I learn anything from those who were present, for they all say that there were so many little matters touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they remembered only one--and that is, when any man goes out of the sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and sees another man's horse or mule or ox, a little beyond or near his, he shall drive it also to camp, and if he neglect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even if it requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock the wind shifted around to the north and blew strong and cold.

Wednesday, May 19

It has rained a little most of the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy and like for a rainy day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it was thought best to move on before breakfast a few miles and seek better feed. We started out at 5:05, the second division having the right to lead, but a part of the first division being ready a little before all the second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove fast and those of the second division behind had to leave the track and run their teams to take their places. We traveled two and three quarters miles, our course eleven and one fourth degrees north of west, and then crossed a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay within about one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river which takes a bend south from where we camped last night and runs close to the bluffs on the south side. We then turned our course to a little west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs on this side, and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and halted for breakfast at 6:20, having traveled three and a quarter miles. The main body of the camp have stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from where we started this morning. The road is mostly sandy, tall grass of last year's growth. The two streams we passed seem to form many ponds of clear water extending at short distances from each other from the bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over the bluffs to look out the road. It continues to rain a little occasionally with light north wind. Elder Kimball found that the bluffs project entirely to the river and are very sandy, but we can cross them without going out of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded onward a little and then waited till the rest of the wagons came up. At the distance of nearly a mile and a half, we crossed a stream about twenty feet wide, not very deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at the distance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the bluffs and began to ascend without doubling teams. Some of the teams stuck by, but by the assistance of the extra men, they all got up. The bluffs are very high, sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably, making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quarters of a mile from the east foot to the west foot following our trail which is nearly straight. About 200 yards from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed another stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time since we started after breakfast and continues. Consequently at half past ten the camp formed into platoons and then halted to wait for more favorable weather, having traveled six miles today over the worst road we have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubtless, by the heavy rains. About half past two the weather looked a little more favorable and orders were given to move on. We started at five minutes to three, about which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle on the banks of the river, having traveled two miles and through the day, eight miles. The first mile this evening was over very soft prairie, the last hard and good. The rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the hardest on our teams. The brethren, however, feel well and cheerful. The ox teams are improving in their condition, but the horses do not stand it as well. The stream at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named Wolf creek from the following circumstance: When Elder Kimball went ahead this morning to search out a road, he went up the creek about a mile and around over the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road than the one close to the river. While he was searching, about a mile north from the river he went down into a deep hollow surrounded by high bluffs and as he was riding along at the bottom, he turned his head to the left and saw two very large wolves at about five rods distance gazing at him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two year old steer. When he saw these he looked around on the other side and saw several others about the same distance from him, very large ones, and all gazing fiercely at him. This startled him considerably, and more especially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made a noise to try to scare them away but they still stood, and he concluded to move away as soon as he could. They did not follow him and he saw a dead carcass near, which satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast. On mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they named the creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and forth over ten miles searching out a road before breakfast. He also went out again afterwards and got badly wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and remain in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy with wind from the northeast. The rain had ceased about six o'clock, but it still looks stormy.

Thursday, May 20

The morning fair, but cloudy, light wind from northwest and cold. At 7:45 we started out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a mile before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain yesterday having caused the wood to swell and stick fast. One of the cogs in the small wheel broke. We stopped about a half an hour and Appleton Harmon took it to pieces and put it up again without the small wheel. I had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a mile from where we camped, we crossed a creek eight feet wide and two and a half feet deep. We then changed our course to about southwest a mile or so following the banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about three miles in a bend and then strikes a little north of west. The bluffs on the north appear to be about two miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and then halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters miles over tolerably good road, though at the commencement somewhat soft. On the opposite side the river, the bluffs project near its banks. They are rocky and almost perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we can see a ravine running up the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bottom of about fifteen acres. At the farther side of this bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf. Brother Brown thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all felt anxious to ascertain the fact whether this is Ash Hollow or not, for if it is, the Oregon trail strikes the river at this place, and if it can be ascertained that such is the fact, we then have a better privilege of testing Fremont's distances to Laramie. We have already discovered that his map is not altogether correct in several respects, and particularly in showing the windings of the river and the distance of the bluffs from it. I suggested the propriety of some persons going over in the boat and Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young. The boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river, and Orson Pratt, Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John Brown started to row over, but the current was so exceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown then jumped into the river which was about two and a half feet deep and dragged the boat over, the others assisting with the oars. After some hard labor they arrived on the opposite shore and went to the hollow. They soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road to near Laramie last season with the Mississippi company and knew the place perfectly well. They gathered some branches of wild cherry in full bloom, rambled over the place a little while and then returned to camp. About the same time the camp prepared to pursue their journey. The brethren arrived and made their report, and at 1:45 p.m. we proceeded onward. From the appearance of the bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west and northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after we started, one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake within a rod of the road made by the wagons and on the side where the cows travel. He killed it to prevent its injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow, there are several small islands on which grow many trees of cedar. One of these islands is perfectly green over with cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also on the south side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpendicular, running pretty close to the river. On this side the river, the bluffs seem to bear farther to the north, being apparently about three miles from the river, and a few miles farther west they are as much as five miles from the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles from the noon stop, we crossed a tributary stream running into the Platte, in a very crooked direction, being from four to eight rods wide and two and a half feet deep most of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some had to double teams to get over, but all got over safely. We proceeded on about four miles farther and found that the river bends considerably to the north. The bluffs also bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front almost reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We went a little farther and camped for the night at half past five, having traveled this afternoon eight miles, making fifteen and three quarters miles during the day. Elder Kimball and several others went forward on horses to pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks like penny royal, smells almost like it, but tastes hot and like the oil of cloves. Elder Kimball and others saw a very large wolf about half a mile west, and he appeared to be following them to camp. They turned and rode up to him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they did not go off, being damp. He finally made his escape. The large stream we crossed this afternoon is named Castle Creek from the bluffs on the opposite side which much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a light shower this afternoon, but the evening is fine though very cool.

Friday, May 21