Chapter XIX: Part 19

After being two nights there, we left for Genoa. The day was fine, and having a compartment to ourselves, we had full opportunity of looking about and enjoying the scenery. The distance is about fifty–seven miles, and as the train took nearly four hours to arrive quietly at Genoa, we moved leisurely. I paced one of our bedrooms at the Hotel de Gènes, and it seemed to be 27 feet long by 21 feet wide, and probably it was 20 feet high. In the afternoon we drove out again to see the Campo Santo, and found little change since last year. On the following day we visited most of the places we had seen the previous year, and some others, including some additional palaces already noticed. With a little difficulty we made discovery of the Via Orifici (a narrow street in the heart of the town, not far from the hotel), where the filigree shops are, and made a few purchases. The shops are on both sides of the street, and contain sometimes beautiful specimens of this delicate work in silver and gold; perhaps the shop of Salvi exhibited the largest collection of choice handiwork. In buying, it is well to remember one is transacting in Italy. Genoa has a Galleria, but not nearly so handsome as that at Milan, although equally suitable for its purpose. Last year we had seen it in course of construction, but it was now completed, and some of the best shops in Genoa were opened in it. But at the time of our visit it was not fully occupied. At night it was, as at Milan, crowded by the townspeople and visitors. A long, wide, lofty arcade like this, covered over by a glass roof, and brilliantly lighted up, is naturally an attraction, and something of the kind in our large towns might induce a withdrawal of many from the gin–palaces and drinking–shops, the glare and comfort of which seem to be so great an inducement and temptation to certain classes. But, like the Italian galleries, they require to be thoroughfares in good central situations—not _cul–de–sacs_.

* * * * *

In the afternoon of the third day we left by train for Turin. A few drops fell as we left, augmenting as we proceeded under inky clouds to heavy rain. We obtained our last glimpse of our old friend the Mediterranean just after leaving Genoa. The railway stations, not improved by the rain, looked all so dirty—filthy, indeed. At Alessandria, where we had an hour to wait, affording time to dine, the whole platform was most disagreeable, from the abominable habit (elsewhere alluded to) the Italians have of defiling every place, even the floors of churches, so that it is not uncommon to see a notice up in the churches requesting that it be not practised. However, good service is done by the women, who trail their gowns over the floors, and thus, with a thoughtful consideration for others and an unselfish disregard for themselves, keep them cleaner than they would otherwise be.

We arrived at Turin about eight o’clock in the evening, and found quarters in the Ligurie, a large, new, first–class hotel, not far from the station. The double windows, thick shutters, and the cloth curtains outside the bedroom doors, were suggestive of what descent in temperature there may sometimes be in Turin; but except a little cold and damp in the evening, resulting from the rain which had fallen before our arrival, we had it warm and sunny during the three days we remained there. The following forenoon we devoted to a long drive in and about Turin. The streets are exceedingly regular and wide, and the houses being lofty and the town of considerable extent and full of handsome public buildings and monuments, Turin has all the appearance of a capital; but though a city upwards of 2000 years old, there is about it quite a modern air. The view along several of the streets is terminated by a grand vista of snowy mountains, and one of the sights of Turin—indeed, its great sight—is the view obtained from it of the Alps. To witness this in perfection, it should be seen from a commanding height early in the morning of a clear day. We accordingly, soon after breakfast, driving past the public park and gardens, and round an imposing quadrangular building called the Castel di Valentino, and crossing the river Po by a stone bridge of five arches, were deposited at the foot of the steep hill on which the Capuchin Monastery is built. Here, by a road winding round the hill, we walked to the top, and from the plateau beheld the most magnificent mountain prospect I had ever seen, or which I suppose is visible in Europe. Right in front of us, against a sky all but clear, rose the great range of the snowy Alps, stretching far as the eye could reach to right and left, the nearest being only about fifteen miles distant, but seeming much nearer as seen through a transparent atmosphere over a range of low hills lying in front of them. Monte Viso, conical in shape, about forty–five miles to the south–west, in which the river Po finds its source, rises prominently like a huge tusk, the rest like an enormous jaw, in wavy line of peaks or serrated folds. Between the river Po, flowing below, and the mountains, the ground appears one vast level plain, on which the city rests in regular lines of lofty houses, the monotony being broken by the numerous towers and domes of the public buildings; and conspicuous among them is the great ugly peculiar square dome of the Jewish Synagogue, a far from pleasing object. In a different direction, away to the north–east, we saw the Superga or Royal Mausoleum, built on the crest of a hill much higher than the monastery, and commanding a fully better view. To visit it and the royal tombs is a day’s excursion, and we gave it up. The royal palace was among the places in town which we visited. Its magnificent rooms are reached by a truly regal staircase of marble adorned by sculpture. The armoury, an interesting exhibition, is not far from the palace. A long room in it is filled with figures of men–at–arms on horseback clad with the armour of different periods.

The streets of Turin are to a large extent lined by arcades, and no doubt in bad weather, and especially in snowstorms, such a method of construction must be useful, the shops, however, being generally placed under them.

Turin possesses many fine monuments. One of the finest is that to Cavour, inscribed, ‘A Camillo Cavour nato a Torino il x. Agosto MDCCCX., morto il vi. Giugno MDCCCLXI.’ A kneeling female figure, representing doubtless Italia, is presenting him with a garland; while below, the base is adorned by emblematical figures at least life–size, and, like the statue, of white marble—all very tasteful. Another and very singular monument is that to the Duke of Genoa. His horse falls to the ground on its knees wounded, and the rider, the Duke, sitting on the horse, is resting one foot on the ground and waving his sword.

We had a Sunday in Turin, and in the morning went into the cathedral. It is a large building, not very imposing; but inside it is dark, and the dirtiest church we had seen in Italy, which is saying a good deal. To Protestants, the Waldensian Church is a place of great interest. Unfortunately we had been informed at the hotel that the Italian service was in the morning, and the French service in the afternoon; and we therefore attended service in the morning, in the English Church in the yard immediately behind it. Returning in the afternoon, we found our informant was mistaken; the French service had been in the morning, the afternoon service was in Italian. The church, which is a large one, was scantily attended by a shifting congregation of the poorer classes of Italians. Many, apparently Roman Catholics, just entered to see what was doing, and after a few minutes went out again, to be replaced by others. As we understood little of what was said, we did not stay the service out. We learned at dinner from a lady who had been there in the forenoon, that the morning service had been in French, that the church was crowded by a most respectable congregation, and that the whole service was most interesting.

Turin is a place in which a few days can be well spent, and an excursion is not unfrequently made from it to the Waldensian valleys, part of the way to which is by railway.

* * * * *

We had a beautiful day on which to leave for Aix–les–Bains by the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The view of the snowy mountains was brilliantly clear as we approached them. In about six miles we reached the first or low hills. Thenceforth the scenery along the line of railway was at some parts wild and grand, and at others the hills were surmounted by structures which gave a picturesque character to them. At last we reached and passed through the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The time taken in passing through was about twenty–eight minutes. It was long to be boxed up in the dark, but it did not feel so long as I anticipated. Once or twice I put down a window; the air felt slightly damp, not cold. On issuing from it on the French side, the railway makes a long detour to reach the lower level of Modane, where luggage is examined by the French _douaniers_, and we changed into French carriages, which were superior in comfort to those of the Italian line. The scenery all along to Chambery and Aix–les–Bains was among the mountains, some of them capped with snow.

We stayed, as we had planned, a week at Aix–les–Bains, and we should have enjoyed it but that great part of the time we had rain, and the air, though warm, was moist. A range of low hills separates Aix from Lake Bourget, enclosed on the other side by steep rugged mountains, their summits visible over the hills. A short walk takes one to the top of these hills, whence an excellent view is had of the lake, upon which a steamer plies during the summer. The lake is reached by the road at a part fringed by tall poplars about one and a half to two miles distant, offering a pleasant stroll on a fine afternoon such as we had to walk to it.

* * * * *

We left by a morning train for Dijon, and shortly after the sky got black, and we were obliged to change carriages at Culoz in drenching rain, the station being destitute of cover so necessary at a junction like this, or indeed at every railway station. As we passed along, the whole country seemed to be inundated. Both at Dijon and Fontainebleau we were caught in showers unexpectedly. At Paris, where we rested for a few days, we had rain, but principally through the night. At Boulogne we had a shower. Crossing thence, we landed, after a beautiful passage, at Folkestone in May 1878, and proceeded by Bristol to Stoke Bishop. Here, instead of the sunshine with which the neighbourhood of Clifton is usually favoured at this season, and to which we had looked forward, we were still pursued by almost daily rain. After remaining six weeks looking constantly for better weather, we got back to Scotland.

* * * * *

And here with a sad heart I must close. I had written most of these pages at a time when we had every belief that the changes experienced had effected cure—at least to the extent of allowing us to go home for the summer. And we had been so much longer away than we had proposed when we left, that not unnaturally we were the more anxious to be back. The last change was destined to be fatal. Looking to second causes, it is probable that the unforeseen and unusual moisture to which we had been exposed everywhere after leaving Italy, succeeding so long a residence in a dry climate, had developed latent seeds of disease, and weakness had latterly been increased by exposure to a cold draft inducing cough. Whatever was the cause, she for whose benefit we had taken this prolonged tour in sunny lands, and who we had fondly hoped had been restored to health, sank within a few months from the time of touching her native shore. It was when hopes were beginning to revive, and she herself had thought the crisis was past, a sudden change for the worse took place. After a restless night, the morning light, for which she had anxiously longed, only arrived to bear her soul peacefully away from weakness and solicitude to a land brighter than any she had looked on here. Though gentle and unpresuming, her cheerful and unselfish disposition, joined to other graces, and to good sense born of a well–balanced and well–informed mind, soon made her acquaintance valued wherever she went; and, scattered as so many are, perhaps it is only through this little record some may chance to learn that they have lost an esteemed friend.

THE END.

MORRISON AND GIBB, EDINBURGH,
PRINTERS TO HER MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE.

APRIL 1879.

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WORKS OF FICTION.

Becker’s Charicles; Private Life among the Ancient Greeks. Post 8vo. 7_s._ 6_d._ — Gallus; Roman Scenes of the Time of Augustus. Post 8vo. 7_s._ 6_d._

Cabinet Edition of Stories and Tales by Miss Sewell:—

Amy Herbert, 2_s._ 6_d._ Cleve Hall, 2_s._ 6_d._ The Earl’s Daughter, 2_s._ 6_d._ Experience of Life, 2_s._ 6_d._ Gertrude, 2_s._ 6_d._ Ivors, 2_s._ 6_d._ Katharine Ashton, 2_s._ 6_d._ Laneton Parsonage, 3_s._ 6_d._ Margaret Percival, 3_s._ 6_d._ Ursula, 3_s._ 6_d._

Novels and Tales by the Right Hon. the Earl of Beaconsfield, K.G. Cabinet Edition, complete in Ten Volumes, crown 8vo. price £3.

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The Modern Novelist’s Library. Each Work in crown 8vo. A Single Volume, complete in itself, price 2_s._ boards, or 2_s._ 6_d._ cloth:—

By the Earl of Beaconsfield, K.G.

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By Anthony Trollope.

Barchester Towers. The Warden.

By the Author of ‘the Rose Garden.’

Unawares.

By Major Whyte–Melville.

Digby Grand. General Bounce. Kate Coventry. The Gladiators. Good for Nothing. Holmby House. The Interpreter. The Queen’s Maries.

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Mademoiselle Mori. The Atelier du Lys.

By Various Writers.

Atherstone Priory. The Burgomaster’s Family. Elsa and her Vulture. The Six Sisters of the Valley.

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MUSICAL WORKS BY JOHN HULLAH, LL.D.

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FOOTNOTES:

[1] _Life of Watt_, 1839, p. 198.

[2] A compilation recently published gives an account of the means of conveyance had in times past in Great Britain, but does not, except very incidentally, touch upon those on the Continent. See Croal’s _Book about Travelling, Past and Present_, W. P. Nimmo, Edinburgh.

[3] The following table, taken from Croal’s _Book about Travelling_, p. 575, shows the extent of the railway system in 1875 on the European Continent:—

Miles Square Miles of Territory
of to each Mile of Line.
Railway.

Belgium, 2,174 5
Switzerland, 1,300 11
German Empire, 14,472 12
France, 12,376 14
Denmark, 561 18
Netherlands, 1,016 20
Austria and Hungary, 10,154 20
Italy, 4,817 23
Spain, 3,822 50
Roumania, 770 59
Portugal, 596 61
Sweden, 2,237 63
Turkey in Europe, 965 138
Russia in Europe, 11,591 157
Norway, 339 387
Greece, 7 2,658

[4] The normal value of a sovereign is 25 francs 20 centimes.

[5] It may be interesting to give, as far as I have preserved note of it, the rate of exchange received at different places during part of the period we were away:—

At Cannes, Nov. 1876, per £, 25·75
” Mentone, Dec. ” ” 25·25
” ” thereafter, ” 25·
” Nice, February 1877, ” 25·75
” San Remo, March ” ” 27·20
” Genoa, ” ” ” 27·10
” Rome, 23d ” ” ” 27·03
” ” 19th April ” ” 27·90
” Florence, 28th ” ” ” 28·10
” ” 7th May ” ” 28·15
” ” 12th ” ” ” 28·10
” Venice, 20th ” ” ” 28·25
” ” 22d ” ” ” 28·15
” Milan, 26th ” ” ” 28·
” Como, 11th June ” ” 27·10
” Bellagio, ” ” ” ” 27·47
” Lucerne, 25th ” ” ” 25·15
” Interlachen, 13th July ” ” 25·10
” Paris, Aug. ” ” 25·
” Interlachen, ” ” ” 25·10
” Montreux, 8th Sept. ” ” 25·12
” Biarritz, Oct. ” ” 25·
” Pau, 18th ” ” ” 25·05
” ” 21st ” ” ” 25·12
” Cannes, Nov. ” ” 25·06
” San Remo, March 1878, ” 27·03
” ” April ” ” 27·45
” ” ” ” ” 27·37

[6] Little monthly time bills or leaflets can be got at the Company’s offices in London and Paris, for which see Bradshaw. Some of them also, like Cook’s and Gaze’s Lists, contain through fares to most places on the Continent.

[7] A quarto publication, called _Voyages circulaires viâ le Mont Cenis et la Corniche_, is issued by ‘Agence de Paris, Rue Auber 1, Maison du Grand Hotel,’ containing circular tours in Italy, starting from Paris, Nice, and Marseilles.

[8] The following may be given as specimens of the menu:—

_At the Grand Hotel du Louvre, Paris._

_Potage._—Consommé aux Quenelles; Hors d’œuvre; Melon. _Relevées._—Saumon Sauce Hollandaise; Pommes de terre nature; Train de Côtes à la broche; Aubergines à la Provençale. _Entrées._—Timbales à la Joinville; Poulardes à la Demidoff. _Rot._—Canetons de Rouen au Cresson; Salade de Romaine. _Entremets._—Petits Pois à l’Anglaise; Biscuits Princesse; Garnis d’Allumettes. _Desserts._

_At a Provincial Hotel in France, somewhat more meagre than usual, however (verbatim)._

_Potage._—Tapioca. _Relevées._—Epigrammes d’Agneau Bretonne. _Entrées._—Poulets Sautés Maringa. _Legumes._—Choux de Bruxelles. _Rôtis._—Ros bief. _Entremets._—Charlotte de Pommes Parisien, etc. _Dessert._

[9] _A Winter’s Sketches in the South of France and the Pyrenees_, p. 7.

[10] At Naples I sat next a German who helped himself to four thick slices of roast beef, then, according to German custom, began by placing one above another, and cutting the whole into little squares by drawing his knife first lengthways and then crossways through them, and having so divided the beef, took his knife and shovelled, in quick succession, all the pieces into his mouth. Fish is often a scarce commodity, yet I have seen German ladies, after having liberally helped themselves to it, call for more as they would for more of any other course, though it is unusual for others to ask a second supply of any course.

[11] Since this chapter was written, alterations have been made on the French postal rates, and, _inter alia_, the postage to England is reduced to 25 centimes, and for the interior to 15 centimes; but I have allowed the text to stand as referring to the time we were away. There may be other changes of which I am not aware.

[12] The _Guide_, arranged alphabetically, contains information regarding the following countries and places:—Austria, Belgium, Denmark, France, Germany, Greece, Holland, Italy, Norway, Portugal, Russia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey in Europe, and the Mediterranean. In Denmark and Greece the number of Protestant churches is very limited. The Mediterranean embraces fifty–four towns, including towns in Egypt and Palestine.

[13] The figures in this chapter are all given subject to correction.

[14] Bowing the head or bowing the knee at the mention of the name of Jesus, is one of those literal renderings sometimes put upon words of Scripture, of which in reading through, long ago, as a student, the _Corpus Juris Canonici_, I found examples. The subject is disposed of in Mr. Thomas Spalding’s _Scripture Difficulties_, p. 269.

[15] In Mr. Birrel’s interesting _Life of Dr. Brock_, a man of great power and, I believe, of much liberality of mind, the following passage (p. 241) occurs in reference to a Sunday in crossing the Atlantic:—’Next day was all that a Sunday at home could be. We had service, Mr. Nolan again officiating—the captain, however, this time reading the prayers himself. One thing struck me painfully: when the absolution came to be read, the captain gave way to the priest, who alone stood and alone spoke; he alone had authority in the great matter of remission. The captain had none. Of what is this the germ?’

[16] A French kilometre is equal to 1093·633 yards; an English mile is 1760 yards. Two miles are therefore more than three kilometres, and two kilometres are equal to about one mile and a quarter (1¼). But all the foreign measures differ, and it is puzzling therefore to know from the railway guides and others what are the distances in English miles. A uniform mileage system would be exceedingly useful. In fact, the statesman who could effect uniformity in measures, weights, and coinage throughout Europe, would do more real good than is obtained by more glittering acts.

[17] _Vide_ Figuier’s _World before the Deluge_, p. 317.

[18] I have seen the numbers produced by a single insect in the course of a year stated in a newspaper, but unfortunately did not preserve a note of the information, which is not given in the usual books about insects.

[19] It would be hardly possible for me to give from recollection a complete list of all the hotels and pensions in Mentone, but I may note some at least of the most prominent. Having had friends in many of them, we had occasional opportunities of seeing them, and learning a little regarding them; but only residence in each could enable anybody to speak authoritatively, and therefore observations now made must be taken in a very general way, and subject to all allowances, and as perhaps mistaken.

At the extreme west, the Pavillon is, I believe, a well–appointed hotel; but it is fully half a mile outside the town, to some a recommendation. Between it and a small house, now called the Hotel Anglo–Americaine, near to the Boirigo Bridge, there are several elegant villas, some of them to let furnished. East of this bridge, facing the promenade, are the Pension Condamine (small and moderate) and some other minor houses and pensions; then the Hotel de Russie (one on Gaze’s list); and crossing the Carrei, the first house beyond, and overlooking the public gardens, is called the Pension Americaine, in reality an hotel, with good cuisine, kept by an active, clever, and attentive landlady; near to it, the Pension Camous, a tall, overtopping, narrow building, at which the town street may be said to commence; adjoining it, the Pension or Hotel de Londres; and a little farther east, and more in town, the Hotels Westminster, Victoria, and Menton—all large, and, I believe, expensive; and, last of all, the Hotel du Midi. Beyond the Promenade, close to the market–place, and not far from the harbour, the Hotel Bristol. With the exception of the two last, all have gardens of more or less size between them and the promenade, and all have access on the other side to the public street.