Chapter I: Preface

This short work contains the story of five seasons’ climbing and exploring in the New Zealand Alps. Most of the material embodied in it has already appeared from time to time, in rather a different form, in the Christchurch (N.Z.) ‘Weekly Press.’

The author trusts that the publication of the same in book form, together with a map of the locality and a few photographic reproductions, will supply a want in the shape of a guide-book to the Alpine mountain district which is already beginning to be felt by tourists in New Zealand; and he hopes that the contents may not prove uninteresting to the general public, more especially to Swiss and Caucasian climbers, few of whom are perhaps aware of the extent and nature of the New Zealand Alpine chain.

The map is compiled by the New Zealand Government Survey Office from the work of Mr. T. N. Brodrick, Government Surveyor, and that of Dr. R. von Lendenfeld. The illustrations are from photographs by Messrs. Wheeler and Son. Their operator has in several mountain expeditions accompanied the author, who takes this opportunity of expressing his thanks to the New Zealand Government Survey Department, and to Messrs. Wheeler, for their kind assistance.

It will doubtless be said that the summit of Aorangi has not yet been attained: quite true. Like Mr. Green, the author and his friend were ‘wise in time.’ Yet it is only a quibble to dispute the ascent of the mountain, for being on the ice-cap of Aorangi is like being on the topmost rung of a ladder, and yet not upon the projections above that step.

CHRISTCHURCH, NEW ZEALAND:
_April 13, 1891_.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTORY

PAGE

The New Zealand Alps and their glaciers 1

CHAPTER II

THE ROUTE TO THE MOUNT COOK DISTRICT

A short description of the route to the Mount Cook district, and of
the topographical features of the Mueller, Hooker, and Tasman
Valleys 5

CHAPTER III

FIRST ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

First impressions—Swagging—The Hochstetter Glacier—Defeat—The
perils of river crossing 14

CHAPTER IV

SECOND ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

A flooded camp in the Tasman Valley—Hard struggles—We reach
Green’s bivouac 32

CHAPTER V

THIRD ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

Photography on the Tasman Glacier—Attempt to scale Mount De la
Bêche 42

CHAPTER VI

ASCENT OF THE HOCHSTETTER DOME

Camp under De la Bêche—Twelve hours on snow and ice—The
pangs of hunger 58

CHAPTER VII

FOURTH ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

We reach the Great Plateau at last—Defeat again—The crossing of
the Ball Pass 65

CHAPTER VIII

FIRST EXPLORATION OF THE MURCHISON GLACIER

Hard swagging—Erroneous maps—The struggle for Starvation
Saddle—Exhaustion and hunger—Return 76

CHAPTER IX

FIFTH ATTEMPT TO CLIMB AORANGI

Avalanches—The bivouac again—First attempt repulsed—Second
attempt—The Great Plateau—The Linda Glacier—Hard work
step-cutting—The terrible _couloirs_—Victory at last—Descent
by lantern-light—Back to civilisation 90

CHAPTER X

ON SOME OF THE PHENOMENA OF GLACIERS

The cause of glaciers—Formation and structure—Motion—Moraines:
Lateral, medial, and terminal—‘Surface’
moraines—Crevasses—Moulins—Glacier tables—Glacier cones—Surface
torrents—Avalanches—Cornices 109

CHAPTER XI

CANOEING ON THE NEW ZEALAND RIVERS

The Waimakariri—The enormous rainfall—Descent of the Waitaki
River—The Tasman branch—Lake Pukaki—Leaky canoes—The
Pukaki Rapids—The Waitaki Gorge—Out on the plains again—Sixty
miles paddle to catch the train—Home once more 119

L’ENVOI 131