Chapter IX: The Voice of God 123

The Yellowstone and How it was Made 136

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
ALMA WHITE _Frontispiece_

Map of Yellowstone Park 8

Group of Bannock Indian War Chiefs 12

Bannock Indian Papoose 14

Arch at Northern Entrance to Yellowstone Park 18

Shoshone Canyon 22

Shoshone Dam 24

The Holy City 27

Pahaska Tepee Lodge 29

Chittenden Bridge 32

Sylvan Lake 35

Yellowstone Lake 37

Eagle's Nest Rock 40

Grand Canyon, from Inspiration Point 42

Willow Park Camp 45

Lower Yellowstone Fall 48

Bear Feeding "A La Carte" 52

Upper Yellowstone Fall 55

Beaver Dam 61

Mammoth Hot Springs 63

Fort Yellowstone 66

Obsidian Cliff 69

Roaring Mountain 72

Norris Geyser Basin 75

National Park Mountain 78

"Hell's Half Acre" 80

Mammoth Paint Pots 83

Office Old Faithful Inn 85

Old Faithful Geyser 86

Giantess Geyser in Action 89

The Sponge Geyser 93

The Beehive Geyser 95

Castle Geyser 98

Butterfly Spring 100

Riverside Geyser 105

Giant Geyser 107

Morning Glory Spring 108

Grotto Geyser 111

Sapphire Pool--Biscuit Basin 114

Punch Bowl 116

Handkerchief Pool 118

Emerald Pool 121

Jupiter Terrace 125

Buffalo Herd 127

Elk Stalled in Snow 130

Golden Gate Canyon and Viaduct 132

HISTORICAL STATEMENT

In a book entitled, _The Discovery of Yellowstone Park_, written by Nathaniel P. Langford, the author gives an account of an expedition of 130 persons who started from St. Paul, June 16, 1862, for the Salmon River, as it had been widely rumored that extensive placer mines had been discovered there. The expedition was led by Captain James L. Fisk, the noted Indian fighter. Among his assistants were E. H. Burritt, Nathaniel P. Langford, and Samuel R. Bond, who acted as secretary. David E. Folsom, Robert C. Knox, Cornelius Bray, Patrick Doherty, Ard Godfrey, and Patrick Bray, were selected for guard duty. Many well-known pioneers of Montana were in this company, whose names are familiar to the writer.

After eighteen weeks of hazardous adventure, the expedition arrived, on the 23d of October, at Grasshopper Creek. The weather being too cold for them to proceed on the journey, they decided to camp in that locality for the winter. This region was then the rendezvous of the Bannack Indians; and the St. Paul expedition named the settlement Bannack.

To me it is a strange coincidence that this expedition of pioneers should have left St. Paul on the day of my birth, the 16th of June, 1862; and that on March 31st, 1882, a little more than nineteen years, later, I should reach this same locality, having been engaged to teach the Bannack public school, which I began the 4th of April.

Frequently the early history of the town and its inhabitants was rehearsed in my hearing, but many deplored the fact that some of the old-timers had moved to Virginia City, Helena, Butte, and other places, and that the placer mines of Bannack were not so prosperous as in former days. But there were enough of the pioneers left to keep fresh in the memories of the younger generation the stories of adventures with wild beasts, the Indians, etc. Some of the stories were looked upon as fabrications, while others were known to be plain statements of facts.

I heard so much about the Indians, their reprisals and cruelty, that I lived in constant dread of them, even when there was no cause for alarm. A short time before I reached Montana, which was then a territory, there had been an uprising of some tribes, and a number of persons living in Bannack and vicinity had been killed. When they were on the warpath at this particular time, the inhabitants of Bannack had to barricade themselves in the new brick courthouse and stay for days to protect themselves from a general slaughter.

I was not afraid of the squaws with their papooses strapped to boards on their backs, but when the "bucks," as they were called, pressed their flat noses against the window-panes asking for muck-a-muck (food), they frightened me so that I could not get over it for hours. No one else seemed to have any fear of them, even though harrowing stories were everywhere being told about their treachery and cruelty. I made my home with Aunt Eliza, my mother's sister, who had married Dillon B. Mason, a pioneer of Montana, about ten years before. It was she who had engaged the public school for me and had insisted on my coming to Montana, from Kentucky, to teach at Bannack.

When the Indians on their foraging expeditions came around to the back door and windows of the kitchen, it seemed to be my lot to see them first. When they saw how I was disturbed at their presence, they would throw their heads back and laugh, and say, "White squaw, heaply big fool." My uncle and aunt were always on friendly terms with them, calling them John, Jim, and other familiar names. This pleased them very much, especially when food was given them; and I knew they would be around again in a few days, much to my annoyance.

Patrick Bray of Bannack, whose name is mentioned in the St. Paul expedition, was one of the old pioneers who could tell more "blood and thunder" stories than anyone else in the community.

In 1870, a party composed of some of the most prominent citizens of Montana, under the leadership of General Washburn, then the Surveyor-General of the Territory, went on an exploring expedition to the Yellowstone regions. The names of some of the members of this party were household words in the early days of Montana, and familiar to the writer. Among them were Cornelius Hedges, Nathaniel P. Langford, the first superintendent of the Park, T. C. Everts, S. T. Hauser, and Lieut. G. C. Doane. The reader will note the fact that N. P. Langford was a member of the St. Paul party under the leadership of Captain Fisk, that landed on Grasshopper Creek, Montana, in the fall of 1862; and much of the success of the expedition was due to his heroism. Also much credit is due him for his unabating devotion to the cause of the republic, and the service he rendered in having the region set apart as a National Park, March 1st, 1872. Until this time, there were no restrictions on hunting, trapping, gathering of specimens, etc., or to fencing in the geysers by private individuals. THE ACT OF THE DEDICATION OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, approved March 1st, 1872, was as follows:

"BE IT ENACTED BY THE SENATE AND THE HOUSE OF
REPRESENTATIVES OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA IN CONGRESS
ASSEMBLED:

"That the tract of land in the Territories of Montana and
Wyoming, lying near the headwaters of the Yellowstone River,
and described as follows, to-wit: Commencing at the junction
of Gardiner River with the Yellowstone River, and running
east to the meridian passing ten miles to the eastward of
the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence south
along the said meridian to the parallel of latitude passing
ten miles south of the most southern point of Yellowstone
Lake; thence west along said parallel to the meridian
passing fifteen miles west of the most western point of
Madison Lake; thence north along said meridian to the
latitude of the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner
Rivers; thence east to place of beginning--is hereby
reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy or sale
under the laws of the United States, and dedicated and set
apart as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit
and enjoyment of the people; and all persons who shall
locate, settle upon or occupy the same or any part thereof,
except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered
trespassers and removed therefrom.

"Sec. 2. The said public Park shall be under the exclusive
control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it
shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such
rules and regulations as he may deem necessary and proper
for the care and management of the same. Such regulations
shall provide for the preservation from injury or spoliation
of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities or
wonders within said park and their retention in their
natural condition.

"The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for
building purposes, for terms not exceeding ten years, of
small parcels of ground, at such places in said park as
shall require the erection of buildings for the
accommodation of visitors; all the proceeds of said leases,
and all other revenues that may be derived from any source
connected with said park, to be expended under his direction
in the management of the same, and the construction of roads
and bridle paths therein. He shall provide against the
wanton destruction of the fish and game found within said
park, and against their capture or destruction for the
purpose of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all
persons trespassing upon the same after the passage of this
act to be removed therefrom, and generally shall be
authorized to take all such measures as shall be necessary
or proper to fully carry out the objects and purpose of this
act."

With God In the Yellowstone