Chapter IV: Part 4

LAMINATION.--If we apply to the dictionary for the word "lamination," we find that lamellar structure is the arrangements in thin plates or layers one over the other, usually having the end joints alternating, and it is a condition which allows of cleavage in one direction only. This method is used for nearly all descriptions of free or irregular curves, such as sweeps, bends, ogee shapes, and segments of circles. The timber is marked out in suitable lengths, rough-sawn and then planed true on the face, glued together, and when set the sides are cleaned up to the required shape. It is one of the strongest methods of construction, and necessarily costly. Pulleys, pulley rims, and a hundred and one other jobs are built by this method.

Fig. 342 shows one half of a core box built by this method, ready to be worked to the required shape.

MISCELLANEOUS JOINTS

Weather boards.--For outdoor buildings, such as garages, garden sheds, toolhouses, etc., "weatherboarding" is often preferred to ordinary matchboarding, chiefly because of the facility with which it throws off the rain. The boarding can be bought ready prepared. Three methods of jointing are shown in the sections at Fig. 343. The method indicated at A shows one of the most satisfactory types, its boards being planed and moulded as shown. The other two examples are more common. The boarding at B is rebated, whilst at C each board overhangs its lower neighbour. The boards for C and D are always cut tapered as indicated.

The end grain is usually protected by nailing on a strip of timber, chamfered on both edges.

LADDERS.--Fig. 344 illustrates the method of fastening the rung (or stave) of a ladder to the side. At A the common method is shown, the stave being simply driven into the hole and wedged. At B a much better but more expensive method of construction is given. The stave here is socketed and the pin turned to a smaller diameter. In both cases the rung, or stave, is painted before being driven into the side and wedged.

Ladder sides are made in two distinct ways. One method is known as "a plank side," the side being cut from a plank as shown at the section D; the other method is called "a pole side," and is constructed by cutting a straight larch pole in half and using half of the pole for each side of the ladder, as at section C.

HINGED CORNICE POLES.--Fig. 345 shows a hinged joint for cornice poles and should be of interest to those who are frequently removing from house to house. The joint will adapt itself to fit any bay window (even a square bay) and it is formed by turning and cutting the two pieces shown. To fix a cornice pole to a bay window one of these joints is required for each angle of the bay, the pole being cut into suitable lengths and fixed to the hinged joints by the use of the dowel screw and a little hot glue. It is perhaps needless to remark that the diameter of the joint should be of the same diameter as the cornice pole, to enable the rings to easily slide over the surface.

For fastening a turned ornament (or "finial") to the end of a cornice pole a double pointed screw (known in the trade as a "dowel screw") is used, one half of which is screwed into each part of the pieces to be joined.

VENEER KEYING.--Fig. 346 illustrates the method of strengthening the corners of boxes which are made of 1/4-in. or 3/8-in. timber, by securing the corners with veneer keys. The box is mitred and glued in the usual manner, and after allowing sufficient time for the glue to set, saw kerfs are made as shown at _a a_. A piece of thin saw-cut veneer is afterwards glued into the saw kerfs, and when dry the face is levelled off flush. This method is often used previous to veneering the face side of the box with rare veneers, and it is also useful for repair work. Note that the saw cuts are made at an angle. Small picture frames are sometimes keyed instead of nailed.

MUNTIN AND SKIRTING JOINT.--In the case of panelled rooms it is usually necessary to scribe the muntins (or uprights) to the skirting. The method is shown in Fig. 347. The bead moulding of the skirting is only partly removed, as indicated, leaving a solid portion to which the muntin is skew-nailed.

COT JOINT.--At Fig. 348 is shown an interesting joint used largely in the making of Indian cots. The illustrations indicate how the cross bar and end bar are mortised into the leg. A turned hardwood peg fits into a suitably provided hole and locks the tenons, which are dry jointed (not glued) in position. The head of this peg forms an ornament (A) at the top of the leg and should fit tightly in position. At B are seen the end and cross bars in their relative positions when apart from the leg. C shows the end bar and cross bar when the cot is fixed, but in this illustration the leg is purposely left out of the drawing for a clear representation. D shows the joints of the leg portion when the part of the leg above the line at A is sawn off. The hardwood peg is shown at E.

SIDEBOARD PILLARS, ETC. (Fig. 349).--For economy, sideboard pillars are sometimes built up as indicated, the "shaft," the "base," and the "swell" being made up of three distinct pieces. Turned pins are left on the shaft and the base, and these are secured at the joint by the use of a double-pointed screw called a dowel screw. This does away with the necessity of reducing the squares at the top of the wood and thus getting the turning out of a large piece of wood.

NOTCHED JOINTS.--Fig. 350 is a "notched joint," where two joists, or scantlings, cross each other, the object of the joint being to prevent the joists moving from their position without materially weakening them. For an end notch, see Fig. 352.

The "saddle joint" (Fig. 351) is used for connecting upright posts to heads or sills of framing, and undoubtedly takes its name from its similarity to the way in which the saddle fits the horse. It does not weaken the framing as does a mortise and tenon joint, and shrinkage has little effect upon the joint. The "cogged joint," used for connecting purlins to rafter and joists to girders, is illustrated in Fig. 353.

BIRDSMOUTH JOINTS.--Fig. 354 is a "birdsmouth joint," a simple joint which can be readily made by the handsaw, used when a spar fits on the wall plate. A nail is shown securing it in position.

Fig. 355 shows the birdsmouth joint where the spar runs over the _outside_ of the wall plate, thus allowing a fixing for an ornamental finish.

RAFTER JOINT.--Fig. 356 shows an everyday joint, as used at the juncture of the principal rafter and the tie-beam in roof truss work. A sketch of piece A is shown separated, and it should be noted that the depth of the cut portion B should not be more than one-fourth of the total width of the tie-beam.

PELLETING.--Fig. 357 indicates the method of pelleting and screwing the corner of a picture frame. The mitre joint is first screwed and a pellet of the same timber is made to fill the hole which has been bored to receive the screw head. The pellet is glued in position and levelled off.

PATERA COVERS.--In cases where the style of ornament permits of it, patera covers are used instead of pelleting. Fig. 358 shows the jointing of shaped spandrails, etc., to carcase ends of light portable cabinet work, etc. A hole is bored about 3/8 in. deep into the end, and a screw is used to hold the shaping in position. After fixing the rail a small turned button, called a turned patera, is inserted in the hole, thus giving an ornamental finish, as shown in the front view. The turned patera is driven fairly tightly into the hole, but not glued. When it is required to take the article apart a chisel is carefully inserted under the edge of the patera to remove it, and the screw can then be taken out. This method is often used for the construction of light hanging bookcases and similar objects. For a bookcase having an end 8 ins. wide three of these turned buttons and three screws would be used to secure the shelf to the end. Pateras in different styles may be purchased from any dealer in woodworking sundries.

BUTTONING.--The tops of tables, sideboards, etc., should not be fixed with screws in the ordinary way. At the front, screws can be driven upwards through the top rail, but at the sides and back, buttons should be employed, as in Fig. 359, so that the top is free to shrink. It is otherwise liable to split if immovably fixed. The tops of kitchen tables are usually fixed in this way, to allow for shrinkage.

FRAMES FOR OIL PAINTINGS.--The method of making joints for frames on which the canvas is stretched for oil paintings is shown at Fig. 360. They are generally mitred at the corners and fitted with loose wedges. The four parts of the frame can be held temporarily by a piece of thin board while the canvas is being tacked to the edges of the frame. In the accompanying illustrations Fig. 360 shows the action of the wedges when tightening up the frame, the result being to open the mitre joint. Fig. 361 shows the position of the saw cuts for receiving the hardwood wedges. Note that the parallel groove is carried the full length of the material for greater convenience in cutting. The other groove is taken from the outer angle of the mitre joint inwards. The cut finishes with due regard to the necessary taper; see the dotted lines showing taper in Fig. 360. The grooves will be wide enough after being cut with an ordinary hand-rip saw, but for large work they are usually grooved on the circular saw bench.

CORRUGATED STEEL FASTENERS.--It is now many years ago since the steel saw-edge fastener first appeared on the market, but probably 80 per cent. of amateur woodworkers have never yet sampled its advantages.

In appearance it resembles a miniature corrugated galvanised sheet such as is used for roofing purposes, with the exception, however, that the corrugations are divergent instead of being parallel and that one end is ground down to a cutting edge (see Fig. 363, A). They are made in various sizes from 1/4 in. to 1 in. in length, whilst in regard to width they are classed by the number of corrugations and not by their measurement.

To use the fastener no special tools are required; it is simply driven in with a hammer exactly as though it were a nail; once in position, however, to get it out is worse than drawing teeth. The corrugations add to the strength of the device, the wood fibres closing around them, age and rust but emphasising their grip.

WALL PLUGS.--At Fig. 364 four types of wall plugs are shown: _a_, the ordinary rectangular tapered wall plug to drive between the joints of the brickwork; _b_, the circular tapered wall plug as used to plug a wall after a star-shaped brick drill has been used; _d_, a twisted wall plug used for similar purposes to the wedge _a_, but considered to be superior in holding power owing to its twisted formation; _c_ is another type of wall plug considered to have great tenacity by reason of its corrugations. Wall plugs are required in nearly all cases where it is necessary to joint woodwork to brickwork, as, for instance, heavily-framed silvered mirrors to the walls of shops.

SLOT SCREWING, OR KEYHOLE SCREWING, is a most useful way of joining light woodwork in such a manner that the fixing method is not exposed to the eye. A stout screw is inserted to within 3/8 in. of the head, as at Fig. 365. In the adjoining piece a hole is bored with a centre bit and a slot is cut with an 1/8-in. chisel. The two pieces of timber are placed together, and by sliding the upper piece forward the screw runs up into the slot or keyhole and secures the joint. Fig. 366 shows the application of the joint fixing a shaped bracket to the shaped shelf; the bracket and shelf are inverted in the illustration to clearly show the method of jointing. For heavy work special brass plates are obtainable for this purpose; one plate is let flush into the upper piece and the other plate into the lower piece.

Battening (Fig. 367).--A good method of joining cross battens to drawing boards and other wide surfaces is shown here. After boring for the screws, slots are cut so as to allow the screws to move along the slots when shrinkage takes place. In Fig. 368 a similar method is applied to secure the drawer bottom to the drawer back. If shrinkage takes place in the drawer bottom and it leaves the groove in the drawer front, the screws are slackened, the drawer bottom is knocked up into the groove, and the screws again inserted. For drawing boards, etc., specially made elliptical-shaped slotted brass socket cups are made to receive the screw heads.

PUZZLE JOINTS

Puzzle Joints are not only interesting in themselves, but are often excellent studies in craftsmanship. The majority of them, if to be satisfactory as puzzles, call for very careful setting out and cutting, entailing the same degree of skill that is demanded for high-class cabinet work. For this reason several examples may well find a place in a volume dealing with woodwork joints. As a rule, these puzzles should be made in hardwood, such as dark walnut or beech, as in whitewood the joints are soon liable to wear.

CHINESE PUZZLE.--The ingenious puzzle of the Chinese type shown in Fig. 369 is probably older than many of us could guess, but as it is one that can be made by any woodworker we give full directions as to how it may be constructed. The complete article may be called, in form, a six-pointed pyramid. It is made up of twenty-one different pieces, each cut from wood 1/2 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick; 3/8 in. wood may be used if preferred. For the purpose either sycamore or white maple is the most useful.

The pieces required are as follows:--

Fig. 370.--Six pieces, 3-1/2 ins. long, with a half slot cut in the centre as shown. This slot must be exactly the width of the wood's thickness, and cut exactly half way through, so that, if two pieces are placed across by means of the halved joint, their surfaces will be flush. The slot must also be exactly in the centre.

Fig. 371.--Six pieces, size 2-1/2 ins. long, with a half-cut centre slot similar to that of Fig. 370.

Fig. 372.--Six required, these being 1-1/2 ins. in length, and with slots in the middle as before.

Fig. 373.--One of these last six requires special treatment, as it forms the key block of the puzzle. After its slot has been cut, one half of the narrow part must be sawn away, as shown in Fig. 373. The inner edge must also be gently rounded. The special use of this vital piece, which we will call the "key," will be fully explained presently.

Fig. 374.--Then, in addition to these, there are three central bars to make. Like the other parts they are 1/2 in. by 1/2 in., but are each 4-1/2 ins. long, and are cut as shown in Fig. 374. The end projections _a_ are 1/2 in. long, and the cut-away part is exactly half the depth of the wood. Two of the three pieces (X and Y in Fig. 374) are similar, but the slot _b_ of the third one (Z) is only 1/4 in. wide instead of 1/2 in. As will be noticed, this 1/4-in. slot is _not_ in the centre, but corresponds with the right-hand half of the larger slots of X and Y.

In making these twenty-one pieces, what should be borne in mind is that the different parts fit closely into each other. Consequently the slots, in width, must be cut so as to grip the thickness of the wood; in depth they must be exactly half this thickness.

FITTING THE PUZZLE.--The three central bars must first be joined, as those form the skeleton framework of the structure. Fig. 375 shows them in position, but as it is a puzzle in itself as to how they can be got thus some explanation is necessary.

FIRST STAGE.--First take the bars X and Y (see Fig. 374) and arrange them as shown in Fig. 376. It is most important that the projections _a_ of X face upwards, and that the projections _a_ of Y face towards the centre. Then take the bar Z and bring it flat into the slot of X. The little slot of Z, however, must remain _above_ the slot of X. Then slide the bar Y along to the centre, so that the part lettered _c_ slips into the little slot of bar Z.

This may seem confusing to read, but it is easy to follow when the pieces are in one's hand. The result of this rather clever arrangement is that the six arms of Fig. 375 are all exactly the same length, width, and thickness. They are also arranged so that in each arm may be clasped one piece each of Figs. 370, 371, and 372. The three central arms may, of course, be set up in a different order, and here we have merely chosen the way that is the most simple to describe and illustrate.

SECOND STAGE.--In the remaining part of the work the chief difficulty is to keep the puzzle from falling to pieces before the key finally locks it. Take the longer cross parts, Fig. 370, and clasp one to each arm. The six need not all be put on meanwhile, but only those which are most easily handled. The next size (Fig. 371) may then be put on.

In the ordinary course each arm could be completed with its three cross pieces till the sixth was attempted, and here the reader would find that, at the last moment, his attempt was frustrated. He could not get the last small piece in, as other bars lock the puzzle. Here it is that the "key" comes in.

THE KEY PIECE.--When the writer fits up the puzzle he finds that three of the arms may straight away be fitted complete with their three cross parts. These are the ones where the longer cross piece (Fig. 370) _lies flush with the back of the central bar_ (see Fig. 377). This is easily found out when at work on the puzzle. In the case of the other three arms there is, of course, a gap caused by the long slots of the central bars. Adjust the parts on the first-named three arms, and then deal with the fourth arm, putting in all three cross parts. For the little one here, use the "key."

By placing the "key" so that it _overlaps the end projection_ of the arm (see Fig. 378) a space is left at the centre, and means is thus afforded for getting in the three cross parts on the remaining two arms.

This practically ends the puzzle. While the "key" is in its overlapping position the parts may be separated, but if it is _turned round on its narrow neck_, so that it is in exactly the same position as the other five small cross parts, it locks the whole thing so tightly that nothing but sheer force could loosen the twenty-one pieces.

So far as the order of putting together is concerned, there are many equally satisfactory ways, these being determined by the ease or difficulty that one experiences in holding the half-finished puzzle. It all comes to the same in the end, and the "key" must be placed on one bar before the last three arms can be completed. The "key," moreover, must be on one of the bars where a gap is left at the centre, and not on one where Fig. 370 lies flush against the central arm as in Fig. 377.

UNDOING THE PUZZLE.--To take the puzzle to pieces all that is required is to turn the "key" half round and push the other two cross bars on that arm towards the outer point. The cross bars below may then be removed, and the whole structure falls to pieces.

THE DOUBLE DOVETAIL PUZZLE (Fig. 379) consists of two pieces of wood (usually one dark and the other light) which, upon examination, appear to be dovetailed together from each face. This interlocking arrangement is obviously impossible, and the solution of the puzzle is only apparent on examining Fig. 380, where it will be seen that the joint fits together diagonally.

At Fig. 381 are given the diagrams for setting out. Draw the outline of the elevation, plan and end view. The end view in the first instance is indicated by 3, 4, 5 and 6, and it measures 1-7/8 ins. square. A 1-7/8-ins. square is simply used because 2-ins. wood generally finishes this size after it is planed up. Set out a square (A, B, C, D) which stands corner-ways in the larger square (3, 4, 5, 6). Project the lines D A and C B upwards as at 1, and on to this drawing (1), set out the dovetail according to your own idea of length, width and bevel. Project the four points of your dovetail downwards into the end view, and where these lines cut A, B, and D, C draw them downwards and rebate them into your original plan. This will give the true shape of the two dovetails and it is to this shape that you will cut your joint.

The joint is in due course glued up, and next day you will plane and waste off the four corners of your model. The end view shows one corner shaded D, 3, A; this and the other three corners are wasted away. The result is that the dovetails are thrown into a plane different from that in which they were made, showing as Fig. 379.

(Note that dovetail is cut on slant, the thickness at front being less than at back. See dotted line on plan below.)

The model calls for very accurate workmanship and the joints must not be _undercut_ during the sawing and chiselling operations. The completed model measures 6 to 7 ins.

THE DOVETAIL PUZZLE joint illustrated at Fig. 382 has perhaps caused more argument and controversy amongst woodworkers than any wooden joint. It may be neatly made in maple, walnut, or mahogany, and afterwards glued up. The question everyone asks is: How was it put together?

Take two pieces of wood such as mahogany, walnut or birch, about 6 ins. long by 1-7/8 ins. wide and 1-1/4 ins. thick. Truly plane them up and then set out and make the tenon and dovetailed piece (Fig. 383). Next mark out and cut the cross bar to fit its corresponding piece. The joint will go together in a somewhat diagonal direction as it is pushed into position from the back; when closed it will appear as at Fig. 382. For guidance, a plan, part elevation and back elevation are added.

An improvement after you have gained experience in the making of this joint is to make a similar joint, leaving the face (B, Fig. 386) blind; it then does not show the bevelling of the dovetail at the end C. In other words, keep the line C, say, 1/4 in. back from the face of B. The joint should be glued up and it will then appear to the average worker that it is an impossible proposition. (See Fig. 401, page 208.)

Carefully note that the edges A, A are parallel to each other in spite of the fact that they slope in one direction.

A further variation of the puzzle is seen in Fig. 387. Here the joint is much simpler, and can easily be followed from the illustration.

CROSS PUZZLE.--Fig. 388 illustrates a six-piece puzzle joint, similar in some respects to Fig. 369, but very much simpler. Both a back and front view of the piece D is shown for clearness of illustration. The method of assembling the pieces is as follows: Hold piece B upright, and fit piece D across; at the same time note that the small _x_ marks are opposite each other. Take piece E and, holding it as shown, slide it up the piece B (see arrow) until E engages D and the small _o_ marks are opposite each other. Piece C is now fitted behind D, and then piece F will slide in position and push downwards. The key-piece A is now put in position, and the puzzle is completed.

MORTISING PUZZLE.--The ordinary mortising exercise is, after the first two or three attempts, generally voted as uninteresting, but, although the simple puzzle shown in Fig. 389 is practically an exercise in mortising, yet, forming as it does a puzzle, it becomes a fascinating piece of work.

The puzzle is composed of three pieces of wood, each 4 ins. long, 1-1/2 ins. wide, and 1/2 in. thick. In each piece a mortise 1-1/2 ins. by 1/2 in. should be cut as shown at 1, Fig. 390. In one piece, marked 2, a groove is cut on one side, 3/8 in. wide, and in another piece (3) a similar slot, but 1/2 in. wide, is cut, and this is continued on the other side of the groove to a depth of 1/8 in. The three pieces should be set out on a 13-ins. by 1-1/2-ins. by 1/2-in. length of wood, as shown at Fig. 391, and when ready sawn apart.

The puzzle is put together as shown at Fig. 389. In the first place, hold No. 1 piece upright as shown at A, then take No. 2 piece with slot uppermost and push it through the opening in No. 1 piece until the nearest side of the slot projects 1/8 in. as indicated at B. Next place No. 3 piece on with the slot at the back as shown at C, and push it down until it touches the bottom of the opening in No. 2 piece as illustrated at D. The only thing to do now is to push No. 2 piece as far as it will go to make the figure as shown at E.

In this puzzle the parts should fit together fairly tight, but should not be too stiff.

CHINESE CROSS.--Fig. 392 shows a variation of the Chinese cross, which is perhaps the most fascinating of all woodwork puzzles. Take six pieces of hardwood (Fig. 394) and accurately plane and saw them so that each piece will measure 4 ins. by 1 in. by 1 in. Bearing in mind that all the cuts are multiples of 1/2 in., set out, saw and chisel five of the pieces to agree with the sketches 1, 1A, 2, 2A and 3. Leave the key piece intact. The puzzle is of course to fit all the six pieces together so as to form the Chinese cross or block given at Fig. 392. As a clue to the method of assembly we give another sketch (Fig. 393) showing four of the pieces fixed together. The reader can, if he so desires, make the puzzle to a smaller scale by using six pieces of wood each measuring 2 ins. long by 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.

DIAGONAL CHINESE CROSS.--At Fig. 395 is given a sketch of a completed Chinese block or cross puzzle in which the various pieces of wood go together diagonally. Plane up a piece of hardwood (which may be about 14 ins. or 15 ins. long) so that it measures on its end 1/2 in. square. Cut the wood into six pieces which measure about 2-1/4 ins. long, and then proceed to mark out, saw and pare up with the chisel two pieces like sketch A, three pieces like B, and one key piece as C. Now fit these together to make the completed cross. The solution is left to the reader.

Fig. 396 shows a combination of six pieces which, when fitted together, will make the Chinese cross similar to Fig. 392. Plane up the strip of hardwood (birch preferred) so that it measures 1/2 in. square at the end and proceed to mark out and make two pieces like D, two like E, one like F, and one piece like G. Put the pieces together to form the Chinese cross. Again the reader is left to solve the problem of fitting.

SQUARE PUZZLES are of endless variety. Four of these are shown, all simple to make, but not equally simple to solve. The only material required for each is a 5-ins. square piece of 1/8-in. fretwood or plywood; or, if preferred, pieces of different colour may be used. The diagrams are given exactly half size, and the lines may be set out direct on the wood. It will be noticed that all four puzzles are strictly geometrical in character.

Fig. 397 is made up of six pieces and is the simplest of the group to solve. Although containing only five pieces, Fig. 398 will be found to give more trouble.

Fig. 399, with ten pieces, is undoubtedly the most trying puzzle, and will be found as baffling as many jig-saw pictures. Fig. 400, again, presents only moderate difficulties.

If the reader prefers, he may cut the squares to the size illustrated instead of enlarging them.

INDEX

Angle, mitre, 163, 164

Angles for dovetails, 134

Astragals, 128, 129

Back flap hinges, 115, 116

Barefaced (_see under_ Tenon).

Barred door joint, 55

Barrow-wheel joints, 20

Battening, 188

Bevelled dovetailing, 149

Bevelling, guide block for, 161

Birdsmouth joints, 181

Blind lap-dovetailing, 145

Boards, weather, 176

Bolts for scarf joint, 107, 108

Boring away waste, 41, 42

Box, laminated core, 175

Box lid, hingeing, 113

Boxes, dovetails for, 133

Brace and bit, use of, 41, 42

Brass astragal, 129

Bridle joint, mitred, 36, 37

Bridle joint, oblique, 37, 38

Bridle joints, 35

Bridle joints, setting out, 39

Butt hinge, 110, 111

Butt hinge, rising, 115, 116

Butting mitred joint, 8

Buttoning, 184

Carcase work, dovetailing, 149

Card table hinges, 115, 116

Chair joint, interlocking, 91

Chinese cross puzzle, 203

Chinese cross puzzle, diagonal, 204

Chinese puzzle, 189, 190

Chisel used in dovetailing, 137, 138, 153

Chiselling (bridle joints), 45

Chiselling (halved joints), 30, etc.

Chiselling (mortise and tenon joints), 89, etc.

Circular frames, 172

Clamping, 80, 82

Close joint hingeing, 125

Cogged joints, 181

Column joints, 179

Combing joint, 55

Core box, laminated, 175

Corner dovetail, 152

Corner joints, halved, 14

Corner tongued joints, 55, 56

Cornice frame dovetailed, 143, 144

Cornice pole, dowelling, 97, 98

Cornice pole joints, 177

Corrugated steel fasteners, 185

Cot joints, 178

Countersink bit, 96

Cradle for planing, 52

Cradle for planing dowels, 94

Cramping glued joints, 11, 12

Cramping tongued and grooved mitre joint, 56, 57

Cross halving joints, 18, 23

Cross puzzle, 200

Cross puzzle, Chinese, 203

Cross puzzle, diagonal, 204

Cross tongues, 51, 52

Curved work, joints for, 172

Diagonal cross puzzle, 204

Dogs, iron, 10, 11

Donkey's ear shooting board, 327

Door frames, semicircular head, 173, 175

Door joints, barred, 55

Doors, "bound," 109

Doors, hingeing, 116-119

Doors, shutting joints of, 127, 129

Dovetail angle template, 134, 154

Dovetail, corner, 152

Dovetail grooving, 160

Dovetail halved joints, 17, 19, 20

Dovetail, housed and mitred, 145

Dovetail joint, the 132

Dovetail puzzles, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199

Dovetail, secret mitred, 146

Dovetail-wedged tenon joint, 75

Dovetailed keys, 147, 148

Dovetailed scarf joint, 103, 104

Dovetailing, bevelled, 149

Dovetailing, blind lap, 145

Dovetailing, lap, 133

Dovetailing, oblique, 151

Dovetailing, through, 132

Dovetails, frame, 143

Dovetails, machine made, 159

Dovetails, sawing, 141, 155

Dovetails, setting out, 151

Dowel cradle for planing, 94

Dowel plate, steel, 93

Dowel rounder, 96

Dowel with groove, 94, 95

Dowelling frames, 100

Dowelling joints, 93

Dowelling table legs, 101

Dowels, making, 93

Drawbore pinning, 78

Drawer bottom joint, 188

Drawer joints, dust-proof, 131

Drawer ploughslips, 10, 11

Drawers, dovetailing, 133, etc., 156

Dreadnought file, 81, 82

Drop table joint, 20

Dust-proof drawer joints, 131

Fall fronts, hingeing, 119

Fasteners, corrugated steel, 185

Feather tongues, 51, 52

Fencing, joint for, 71

File, dreadnought, 81, 82

Finger joint hinge, 122, 123

Fished joint, 105, 106

Flap (back) hinges, 115, 116

Floor boards, 48

Fly rails, 120, 121

Fox-wedging, 76

Frame dovetails, 143

Frame joints, Oxford, 26, 27

Frame, mirror, with bridle joints, 37

Frames, circular, 172

Frames, dowelling, 100

Frames for oil paintings, 184

Gate joint, 68, 69

Gauge, marking, 28, 29, 40

Gauge, marking dovetails with cutting, 135

Gauging boards for dowelling, 97, 98

Gauging for hinges, 110, 111

Glued joint, the, 1

Glueing dowelled joints, 97

Glueing rubbed joints, 2

Grooved joints (_see_ Tongued and Grooved), 48

Grooves, ploughing, 58

Grooving, dovetail, 160

Halved and dovetailed joints, 17, 19, 20

Halved and mitred joints, 16

Halved joint, the, 13

Halved joints, setting out, 28

Halved scarf joint, 103, 104

Halving joints, cross, 18, 23

Hammer head tenons, 80

Handscrews, 11, 12

Haunched tenons, 65

Hinge, butt, 110, 111

Hinge, finger joint, 122, 123

Hinge, knuckle joint, 122, 123

Hinge recesses, 112

Hinge, rule joint, 125

Hinged cornice pole, 177

Hinged joints, 109

Hingeing box lid, 113

Hingeing, close joint, 125

Hingeing doors, 116-119

Hingeing draught screens, 121

Hingeing fall fronts, 119

Hingeing, open joint, 124

Hinges, gauging for, 110, 111

Hinges, various, 110, 114, 115, 116

Hook joints, 130

Housed and mitred dovetail, 145

Interlocking chair joint, 91

Iron dogs, 10, 11

Japanese self-wedging tenon joint, 72

Joint, drawer bottom, 188

Joint, fished, 105, 106

Joint, interlocking chair, 91

Joint, tabled scarf, 107

Joint, tie beam scarf, 106

Joints,
barefaced tenon, 64
barred door, 55
barrow wheel, 20
battened, 188
birdsmouth, 181
bridle, 35
butting mitred, 8
cogged, 181
column and pillar, 179
combing or locking, 55
cornice pole, 177
cot, 178
cross halving, 18, 23
dovetail, 132
dovetailed and wedged tenon, 75
dowelling, 93
dust-proof drawer, 131
fencing, 71
for curved work, 172
garden gate, 68, 69
glued, 1
halved, 13
halved and dovetailed, 17, 19, 20
haunched tenon, 65
hinged, 109
hook, 130
ladder, 177
laminated, 10, 11, 172, 175
lap, 13
light-tight, 131
meeting, 129
miscellaneous, 176
mitre-faced tenon, 77
mitre bridle, 36, 37
mitre halved, 16
mitred, 163
mitred and tenoned, 72, 73
mitred and tongued, 56, 57
mortise and tenon, 64
notched, 180
oblique bridle, 37, 38
oblique halved, 15, 23
ogee-shaped, 8
open slot mortise, 80
partition, 24, 25
ploughing for tongued and grooved, 58
puzzle, 189
rafter and tie beam, 182
rafter (tenon), 77
rebated door, 129
roof, 34, 37, 38
roof (tenon), 77
rubbed, 1
saddle, 180
sash bar, 79
scarf, 103
screen, 114, 121
scribed and tenoned, 72
setting out bridle, 39
setting out halved, 28
setting out tenon, 83
shouldered tenon, 70, 71, 79
shutting, 127
skirting and muntin, 178
T, 14, 18
tie, 22, 23
tongued and grooved, 48
tongued corner, 55, 56
trestle, 24
tusk tenon, 74, 75
weather board, 176
wheelwright's self-wedging tenon, 75

Keyhole screwing, 187

Keying, dovetail, 147

Keying, veneer, 178

Keys, dovetailed, 147

Knuckle joint hinge, 122, 123

Ladder joints, 177

Laminated joints, 10, 11

Lamination, 175

Lap dovetailing, 133

Lap dovetailing, blind, 145

Lap joints, 13

Laths, winding, 3

Lid, hingeing box, 113

Light-tight joints, 131

Locking (inter) chair joint, 91

Locking joint, 55

Marking gauge, 28, 29, 40

Matchboarding, 49

Meeting joints, 129

Mirror frame with bridle joints, 37

Mitre box, saw used in, 171

Mitre bridle joint, 36, 37

Mitre, curved, 163, 164, 168, 169

Mitre faced tenon joint, 77

Mitre halved joints, 16

Mitre sawing block, 165

Mitre, setting out a curved, 168, 169

Mitre template, 170

Mitre trap, screw, 165, 166

Mitred and housed dovetail, 145

Mitred and tenoned joint, 72, 73

Mitred butting joint, 8

Mitred dovetail, secret, 146

Mitred frames, dowelling, 99, 100

Mitred joint, the, 163

Mitred tongued joints, 56, 57

Mitres, curved, 169

Mortise and tenon joints, 64

Mortise, open slot, 80

Mortising, 87

Mortising puzzle, 201

Mouldings, mitreing, 165, 171

Muntin joint, 178

Notched joints, 180

Oblique bridle joint, 37, 38

Oblique dovetailing, 151

Oblique joints, halved, 15, 23

Ogee-shaped joint, 8

Open-joint hingeing, 124

Open slot mortise, 80

Oxford frame, halved joints for, 26, 27

Partition joints, 24, 25

Patera covers, 183

Pelleting, 182

Piano front joint, 9, 11

Pinning, 73

Pinning, drawbore, 78

Pins, dovetail, 136

Pivot hinges, 114, 115, 116

Plane, old woman's tooth, 161, 162

Plane, the plough, 58, 59, 60

Planes, tongueing and grooving, 61

Planing, cradle for, 52

Planing mitred work, 165

Plinth frame dovetailed, 143, 144

Plough plane, the, 58, 59, 60

Ploughing for tongued and grooved joints, 58

Ploughslips, glueing, 10, 11

Plugging, 186

Pole joints, cornice, 177

Puzzle, Chinese cross, 203

Puzzle, cross, 200

Puzzle, diagonal Chinese cross, 204

Puzzle joints, 189

Puzzle, mortising, 201

Puzzles, dovetail, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 208

Puzzles, square, 205

Rafter and tie beam joints, 182

Rafter joint (tenon), 77

Rebated door joints, 129

Reversible screen hinge, 114, 115

Rising butt hinge, 115, 116

Roof joints, 34, 37, 38

Roof joints (tenon), 77

Roof work, scarfed joints used in, 103, 104, 106

Rubbed joint, 1

Rule joint hinge, 125

Saddle joints, 180

Sash bar joints, 79

Sawing block for mitreing, 165

Sawing (bridle joints), 41, etc.

Sawing dovetails, 141, 155

Sawing for hinge recesses, 112

Sawing (halved joints), 30, 31, etc.

Sawing (tenons), 84, etc.

Scarf joint, fished, 105, 106

Scarf joint for heavy timber, lapped and bolted, 107, 108

Scarf joint, tabled, with straps, 107

Scarf joints, 103

Scarf joints, tie beam, 106

Screen hinges, 114, 115, 116

Screens, hingeing draught, 121

Screwing, slot or keyhole, 187

Screws, hiding with pateras, 183

Scribed tenon joint, 72

Secret mitred dovetail, 146

Setting out dovetails, 151

Shooting board, 7, 10, 11

Shooting board for mitreing, 165, 166, 167

Shoulders, 14, etc., 19, 23

Shoulders of tenons, tongueing, 63

Shoulders, sawing, 45

Shoulders (tenon), 70, 71, 79

Shoulders, tenon with tongued and grooved, 79

Shutting joints, 127

Sideboard pillar joints, 179

Skirting and muntin joint, 178

Skirting, mitred, 163

Skirting mould, double, 56, 58

Slot screwing, 187

Spandrel, jointing shaped, 9, 11

Spandrel with tongued joint, 52, 53

Sprocket wheel, 68

Square puzzles, 205

Steel fasteners, corrugated, 185

Stiles, shutting and meeting, 128

Stopped bridle joint, 37, 38

Stopped dovetail halving, 17

Strap hinge, 114, 115

Straps for scarf joints, 107, 108

Stump tenons, 65

T joints, halved, 14, 18

Table (card) hinges, 115, 116

Table frame, laminated, 174, 175

Table framing, 79

Table joint, drop, 20

Table leg with bridle joint, 36

Table legs, dowelled, 101

Table tops buttoned, 184

Table with circular rim, joint for, 25

Tabled scarf joint, 107

Template, dovetail angle, 134, 154

Template for mitreing, 170

Tenon (and mortise) joints, 64

Tenon joint, dovetailed and wedged, 75

Tenon joint, mitred and moulded, 72, 73

Tenon joint, scribed, 72

Tenon joint, self-wedging, 72

Tenon joint with mitred face, 77

Tenon joint with tongued and grooved shoulders, 79

Tenon joints, barefaced, 64

Tenon joints, drawbore pinning for, 78

Tenon joints, setting out, 83

Tenon joints, shouldered, 70, 71, 79

Tenon joints, tusk, 74, 75

Tenoned scarf joint, 103, 105

Tenons, hammer head, 80

Tenons, haunched, 65

Tenons, inserted, 81, 82

Tenons, stump or stub, 65

Tenons, tongueing shoulders of, 63

Tenons, twin, 72, 73, 80

Through dovetailing, 132

Tie beam and rafter joints, 182

Tie beam scarf joint, 106

Tie joint, 22, 23

Tongue slips, 130

Tongued and grooved joints, applications of, 52

Tongued and grooved joints, 48

Tongued and grooved joints, ploughing for, 58

Tongued joints, corner, 55, 56

Tongueing and grooving planes, 61

Tongues, cross and feather, 51, 52

Tongues, loose, 55

Toothing plane, 161, 162

Trestle joint, 24

Try square, 9, 28

Tusk tenon joints, 74, 75

Twin tenons, 72, 73, 80

Twist bit, 96

Vee'd matchboarding, 49, 50

Vee'd scarf joint, 105

Veneer keying, 178

Wall plugs, 186

Weatherboards, 176

Wedges for tenon joints, 67

Wedging, fox, 76

Wedging frames, 184

Wheel joints, barrow, 20

Wheel, sprocket, 68

Wheelwright's self-wedging tenon joint, 75

Winding laths, 3

PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY THE WHITEFRIARS PRESS, LTD.,
LONDON AND TONBRIDGE.

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