Chapter I: Preface

In this "Book of the West" I have not sought to say all that might be said relative to Devon and Cornwall; nor have I attempted to make of it a guide-book. I have rather endeavoured to convey to the visitor to our western peninsula a general idea of what is interesting, and what ought to attract his attention. The book is not intended to supersede guide-books, but to prepare the mind to use these latter with discretion.

In dealing with the history of the counties and of the towns, it would have swelled the volumes unduly to have gone systematically through their story from the beginning to the present; it would, moreover, have made the book heavy reading, as well as heavy to carry. I have chosen, therefore, to pick out some incident, or some biography connected with the several towns described, and have limited myself thereto.

My object then must not be misunderstood, and my book harshly judged accordingly. There are ten thousand omissions, but I venture to think a good many things have been admitted which will not be found in guide-books, but which it is well for the visitor to know, if he has a quick intelligence and eyes open to observe.

In the Cornish volume I have given rather fully the stories of the saints who have impressed their names indelibly on the land. It has seemed to me absurd to travel in Cornwall and have these names in the mouth, and let them remain _nuda nomina_.

They have a history, and that is intimately associated with the beginnings of that of Cornwall. But their history has not been studied, and in books concerning Cornwall most of the statements about them are wholly false.

I have not entered into any critical discussion concerning moot points. I have left that for my "Catalogue of the Cornish Saints" that is being issued in the _Journal of the Royal Institution of Cornwall_.

There are places that might have been described more fully, others that have been passed over without notice. This has been due to no disregard for them on my part, but to a dread of making the volumes too bulky and cumbrous.

Finally, I owe a debt of gratitude to many kind friends who have assisted me with their local knowledge, as Mrs. Troup, of Offwell House, Honiton; the Rev. J. B. Hughes, for some time Head Master of Blundell's School, Tiverton, and now Vicar of Staverton; Mr. R. Burnard, of Huckaby House, Dartmoor, and Hillsborough, Plymouth, my _alter ego_ in all that concerns Dartmoor; Mr. J. D. Enys, whose knowledge of things Cornish is encyclopædic; Messrs. Amery, of Druid, Ashburton; Mr. J. D. Prickman, of Okehampton; and many others.

S. BARING-GOULD

LEW TRENCHARD HOUSE, DEVON
_June, 1899_

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. THE WESTERN FOLK 1

II. VILLAGES AND CHURCHES 30

III. HONITON 43

IV. A LANDSLIP 60

V. EXETER 68

VI. CREDITON 79

VII. TIVERTON 101

VIII. BARNSTAPLE 122

IX. BIDEFORD 134

X. DARTMOOR AND ITS ANTIQUITIES 155

XI. DARTMOOR: ITS TENANTS 176

XII. OKEHAMPTON 208

XIII. MORETON HAMPSTEAD 225

XIV. ASHBURTON 248

XV. TAVISTOCK 266

XVI. TORQUAY 289

XVII. TOTNES 310

XVIII. DARTMOUTH 323

XIX. KINGSBRIDGE 337

XX. PLYMOUTH 352

ILLUSTRATIONS

SWEET HAY-MAKERS _Frontispiece_
From a photograph by Mr. Chenhall, Tavistock.

CLOVELLY FISHERMEN _To face page_ 16
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

SHEEPSTOR " 30
From a painting by A. B. Collier, Esq.

HOLNE PULPIT AND SCREEN " 38
From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq.

HONITON LACE " 51
From specimens kindly lent by Miss Herbert, Exeter,
and Mrs. Fowler, Honiton. Photographed by the Rev.
F. Partridge.

HIGH STREET, EXETER " 68
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

A COB COTTAGE, SHEEPWASH " 80
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

EAST WINDOW, CREDITON CHURCH, BEFORE
"RESTORATION" " 82
From a sketch by F. Bligh Bond, Esq.

TIVERTON " 101
From a photograph by Mr. Mudford, Tiverton.

QUEEN ANNE'S WALK, BARNSTAPLE " 122
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

CHAPEL ROCK, ILFRACOMBE " 128
From a photograph by Wellington and Ward, Elstree.

HARTLAND SMITHY " 134
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

CLOVELLY " 151
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

STAPLE TOR " 155
From a photograph by James Shortridge, Esq.

RIPPON TOR LOGAN STONE " 160
From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq.

BROADUN POUNDS " 165

BARROW ON CHAGFORD COMMON " 166
Drawn by R. H. Worth, Esq.

LAKEHEAD KISTVAEN " 168
From a photograph by R. Burnard, Esq.

URN FROM KISTVAEN " 172
Drawn by R. H. Worth, Esq.

VIXEN TOR " 176
From a painting by A. B. Collier, Esq.

LOWER TARR " 182
From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq.

TAVY CLEAVE " 197
From a painting by A. B. Collier, Esq.

TAW MARSH " 208
From a painting by A. B. Collier, Esq.

YES TOR " 212
From a painting by A. B. Collier, Esq.

THE CALCULATING BOY " 232
From a miniature in the possession of Miss Bidder.

GRIMSPOUND " 239
From a plan by R. H. Worth, Esq.

J. DUNNING, LORD ASHBURTON " 252
From a painting by Sir J. Reynolds.

OLD OAK CARVING, ASHBURTON " 258
From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq.

BRENT TOR " 266
From a painting by A. B. Collier, Esq.

ON THE DART " 310
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

DARTMOUTH CASTLE " 323
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

GRAMMAR SCHOOL, PLYMPTON " 354
From a drawing by F. Bligh Bond, Esq.

IN PLYMPTON " 354
From a drawing by F. Bligh Bond, Esq.

SUTTON POOL " 358
From a photograph by the Rev. F. Partridge.

ALMS-HOUSES, S. GERMANS " 366
From a drawing by F. Bligh Bond, Esq.

DEVON