Chapter XLIX: Section VII

_Continuation of the Voyage from the Harbour of Comol to Toro or Al Tor._

Three hours after midnight of the 7th April 1541[299], we left the harbour of _Comol_, using our oars for a small way, and then hoisting sail we proceeded along the coast; but an hour before day-light some of our barks struck upon certain rocks and shoals, on which we again struck sails and took to our oars till day-light. At day-light, being then the 8th, we came to a spacious bay, of which to the north and north-west we could see no termination, neither any cape or head-land in that direction. We accordingly sailed forwards in that open sea or bay, but which had so many shoals on each side that it was wonderful we could make _any profit of a large wind;_ for, _now going roamour, and now upon a tack_, sometimes in the way and sometimes out of it, there was no way for us to take certain and quiet[300]. About sunset we came to a very great shelf or reef, and fastening our barks to its rocks we remained there for the night. The morning of the 9th being clear, we set sail from this shelf, and took harbour within a great shelf called _Shaab-al-Yadayn_[301]. After coming to anchor, we noticed an island to seaward, called _Zemorjete_. This port and shelf trend N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. From the _cape of the mountains_[302], to another cape beyond it on which there are a quantity of shrubs or furzes; the coast runs N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. the distance between these capes being about three and a half or four leagues. From this last point the coast of the great bay or nook winds inwards to the west, and afterwards turns out again, making a great circuit with many windings, and ends in a great and notable point called _Ras-al-Nashef_, or the dry cape, called by Ptolomy the promontory _Pentadactilus_ in his _third_ table of Africa. The island _Zemorjete_ is about eight leagues E. from this cape; and from that island, according to the Moorish pilots, the two shores of the gulf are first seen at one time, but that of Arabia is a great deal farther off than the African coast. This island, which is very high and barren, is named _Agathon_ by Ptolomy. It has another very small island close to it, which is not mentioned in Ptolomy. Now respecting the shelf _Shaab-al-Yadayn_, it is to be noted that it is a great shelf far to seaward of the northern end of the great bay, all of it above water, like two extended arms with their hands wide open, whence its Arabic name which signifies _shelf of the hands_. The port of this shelf is to landward, as on that side it winds very much, so as to shut up the haven from all winds from the sea. This haven and cape _Ras-al-Nashef_ bear from each other E.S.E. and W.S.W. distant about four leagues.

[Footnote 299: In our mode of counting time, three in the morning of the 8th.--E.]

[Footnote 300: This nautical language is so different from that of the present day as to be almost unintelligible. They appear to have sailed in a winding channel, in which the wind was sometimes scant, sometimes large and sometimes contrary; so that occasionally they had to tack or turn to windward. The strange word _roamour_, which has occurred once before, may be conjectured to mean that operation in beating to windward, in which the vessel sails contrary to the direction of her voyage, called in ordinary nautical language the short leg of the tack.--E.]

[Footnote 301: Signifying in Arabic the shelf of the two hands.--Astl.]

[Footnote 302: Probably that just before named _Prionoto_ from Ptolomy, and called cape of the mountains, because the Abyssinian mountains there end.--E.]

At sunrise on the 10th we set sail to the N.N.E. the wind being fresh and the sea appearing clear and navigable. When about half a league from the point we saw, as every one thought, a ship under sail, but on drawing nearer it was a white rock in the sea, which we were told deceives all navigators as it did us. After this we stood N. by E. By nine o'clock we reached an island named _Connaka_, and passed between it and the main-land of Africa. This island is small and barren, about half a league in circuit, and is about a league and a half from the main. It resembles a vast crocodile with its legs stretched out, and is a noted land-mark among navigators. _Connaka_ and _Zamorjete_ bear from each other N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. distant about six small leagues. About half an hour past ten, we reached a very long point of sand stretching far out to sea, called _Ras-al-nef_, which signifies in Arabic the point or cape of the nose. There is no nigh land whatever about this cape, but a vast plain field without tree or any green thing, and in the very face of the point stands a great temple without any other buildings, and on each side of it is a very clear sandy coast in manner of a bay. This cape of _Ras-al-nef_ is famous among navigators, as all their trouble and danger ends on reaching it, when they consider themselves at home and secure. We continued our course from this cape along the coast with the wind at S.E. At noon my pilot took the altitude, and found our latitude 24° 10' N. at which time we were beyond _Ras-al-nef_ about three leagues, whence the latitude of that cape is 24° N. From this it appears that the ancient city of _Berenice_ was built upon this cape _Ras-al-nef_ as Ptolomy places it on this coast under the tropic of _Cancer_, making the greatest declination of the sun at this place almost 23° 50'. Likewise Pliny says that at Berenice the sun at noon in the summer solstice gives no shadow to the _gnomon_, by which that city appears to have stood under the tropic.[303]

[Footnote 303: It may be presumed that the position given by Ptolomy is merely accidental, resulting from computed distances; and Pliny only speaks from the authority of Ptolomy. In all probability _Al Kossir_, to be afterwards mentioned, is the _Berenice_ of the ancients.--Astl.]

Half an hour before sunset, we came to an island called _Shwarit_, but passing onwards a quarter of a league we came to some shelves of sand and others of rock, and anchored between them in a good harbour called _Sial_. These shelves and this port are 103 leagues beyond _Swakem_. On these shelves we saw a much greater quantity of sea-fowl than had been seen in any part of the Red Sea. From _Ras-al-Nashef_ to the island of _Shwarit_ may be between 16 and 17 leagues. After passing Cape _Ras-al-Nashef_, or the N.W. point of the great bay, the coast winds very much, running into the land, and pushing out again a very long point of land called _Ras-al-nef_, which two points bear from each other N.E. and S.W. almost 1/4 more N. and S. distant about six leagues large. From _Ras-al-nef_ forwards, the coast winds directly to the N.W. till we come to _Swarit_, the distance being between 10 and 11 leagues. In this distance the sea is only in three places foul with shoals; _first_ to seaward of the island of _Connaka_, where there is a large fair shoal rising above water in a great ridge of large rocks; and running a long way toward the land; the _second_ place is at the island of _Shwarit_, as both to the east and west of this island great shoals and flats stretch towards the main-land, so as apparently to shut up the sea entirely between that island and the main; the _third_ is at this harbour of _Sial_ where we anchored, where the sea is studded thick with innumerable shoals and flats, so that no part remains free. The island of Shwarit is a gun-shot in length and nearly as much in breadth, all low land, with a great green bush in the middle, and opposite to its east side there is a great rock like an island. _Shwarit_ is little more than half a league from the main-land.

From _Swakem_ all the way to _Ras-al-nef_, the countries are all inhabited by _Badwis_ or _Bedouins_, who follow the law of Mahomet, and from _Ras-al-nef_, upwards to _Suez_ and the end of this sea, the coast all belongs to Egypt, the inhabitants of which dwell between the coast of the Red Sea and the river Nile. Cosmographers in general call the inhabitants of both these regions _Ethiopians_. Ptolomy calls them Egyptian Arabs: Pomponius Mela and other cosmographers name them in general Arabs; but we ought to follow Ptolomy, as he was the prince of cosmographers. These Egyptian Arabs, who inhabit the whole country from the mountains to the sea, are commonly called _Bedwis_ or _Bedouins_, of whose customs and manner of life we shall treat in another place.

We took in our sails on the 11th of April, and proceeded on our way by rowing. At nine o'clock we entered a great bay called _Gadenauhi_[304], about 4 leagues from _Sial_, the coast between trending N.W. and S.E. rather more to the N. and S. The land over the sea, which for some way had the appearance of a wall or trench, becomes now very mountainous and _doubled_, shewing so many mountains and so close that it was wonderful. The port or bay of _Gadenauhi_ is 107 leagues beyond _Swakem_, in lat. 24° 40' N. It was low water _one hour after high noon_[305], and full sea when the moon rose above the horizon; and as the moon ascended it began to ebb, till the moon was an hour past the meridian, when it began to flow, and was full sea an hour after the moon set. By night the wind was N.W. Two or three hours after midnight we departed from _Gadenauhi_ prosecuting our voyage. In passing between the shoal which comes from the N.W. point of the bay and the island of _Bahuto_, we stuck fast upon the shoal, and were much troubled, believing ourselves in a net or cul-de-sac; but we had no hurt or danger, and presently got into the right channel and rowed along shore, against the wind at N.W. till day. The 12th we rowed along shore, and came an hour after sunrise into a haven called _Xarmeelquiman_ or _Skarm-al-Kiman_, meaning in the Arabic a cleft or opening in the mountains. This is a small but excellent harbour, 1-1/2 league beyond _Gadenauhi_, and 108 leagues beyond _Swakem_, very much like the port of _Igidid_.

[Footnote 304: Perhaps _Wad-annawi_.--Astl.]

[Footnote 305: This strange expression, as connected with the tide which is dependent on the moon, may possibly mean when the moon was in opposition to the north; or mid-way between her setting and rising.--]

The 12th of April we set sail along shore, the wind being fresher, and more large, at E.S.E. About noon it blew very hard with such impetuous gusts that it drove the sands of the coast very high, raising them up to the heavens in vast whirls like great smokes. About evening when the barks draw together, the wind was entirely calm to some, while others a little behind or before, or more towards the land or the sea, had it still so violent that they could not carry sail, the distance between those becalmed and those having the wind very fresh, being often no more than a stones throw. Presently after, the wind would assail those before becalmed, while those that went very swift were left in a calm. Being all close together, this seemed as if done in sport. Some of these gales came from the E. and E.N.E. so hot and scorching that they seemed like flames of fire. The sand raised by these winds went sometimes one way and sometimes another; and we could sometimes see one cloud or pillar of sand driven in three or four different directions before it fell down. These singular changes would not have been wonderful among hills; but were very singular where we were at such a distance from the coast. When these winds assailed us in this manner we were at a port named _Shaona_, or _Shawna_; and going on in this manner, sometimes hoisting and at other times striking our sails, sometimes laughing at what we saw, and other times in dread, we went on till near sunset, when we entered a port named _Gualibo_,[306] signifying in Arabic the port of trouble, having advanced this day and part of the former night about 13 leagues.

[Footnote 306: Perhaps _Kalabon_.--Astl.]

From _Gadenauhi_ to a port named _Shakara_ which is encompassed by a very red hill, the coast trends N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. the distance about 10 leagues; and from this red hill to a point about a league beyond _Gualibo_, the coast runs N.N.W. and S.S.E. distance about 6 leagues. In these 16 leagues, the coast is very clear, only that a league beyond the Red Hill there is a shoal half a large league from the land. In these 16 leagues there are many excellent ports, more numerous than I have ever seen in so short a space. At one of these named _Shawna_, which is very large, the Moors and native inhabitants say there formerly stood a famous city of the gentiles, which I believe to have been that named _Nechesia_ by Ptolomy in his third book of Africa. Along the sea there runs a long range of great hills very close together and doubling on each other, and far inland behind these great mountains are seen to rise above them. In this range there are two mountains larger than the rest, or even than any on the whole coast, one of which is black as though it had been burnt, and the other is yellow, and between them are great heaps of sand. From the black mountain inwards I saw an open field in which were many large and tall trees with spreading tops, being the first I had seen on the coast that seemed planted by man; for those a little beyond Massua are of the kind pertaining to marshes on the borders of the sea or of rivers; as those at the port of _Sharm-al-Kiman_ and at the harbour of _Igidid_ are wild and pitiful, naked and dry, without boughs or fruit. These two mountains are about two leagues short of the port of _Sharm-al-Kiman_. _Gualibo_, which is 122 leagues beyond Swakem, is very like the port of _Sharm-al-Kiman_; except that the one is environed by many mountains, while the land round the other is an extensive plain. The entry to this port is between certain rocks or shoals on which the sea breaks with much force, but the entry is deep and large. After sunrise on the 13th we left the port of _Gualibo_, and as the wind was strong at N.W. making a heavy sea, we rowed along shore, and at ten in the morning went into a port named _Tuna_, a league and half beyond _Gualibo_. _Tuna_ is a small foul haven, beyond Swakem 123 leagues and a half, in lat. 25° 30' N. The entrance is between rocks, and within it is so much encumbered with shoals and rocks that it is a small and sorry harbour; but round the point forming the north side of this harbour, there is a good haven and road-stead against the wind at N.W. the land round it being barren sand. To the N.W. of this there are three sharp mountains of rock, as if to indicate the situation of the harbour. One hour before sunset we fastened ourselves to a shoal a league beyond _Tuna_. This coast, from a league beyond _Gualibo_, to another point a league and a half beyond this shoal, trends N.N.W. and S.S.E distance four leagues.

The 14th April we rowed along shore, the sea running very high so as to distress the rowers; but beating up against wind and sea till past noon, we came into a fine bay, in the bottom of which we came to anchor in an excellent haven. This day and night we went about 5 leagues, and were now about 129 leagues beyond Swakem. For these five leagues the coast extends N.W. and S.E. the land within the coast being in some places low and plain, while it is mountainous in others. By day-light on the 15th we were a league short of _Al Kossir_, which we reached an hour and half after sunrise, and cast anchor in the harbour. During the past night and the short part of this day we had advanced about seven leagues, the coast extending N.N.W. and S.S.E. According to Pliny, in the sixth book of his Natural History, and Ptolomy in his third book of Africa, this place of _Al Kossir_ was anciently named _Phioteras_[307]. All the land from hence to _Arsinoe_, at the northern extremity of the Red Sea, was anciently called _Enco_. This place is about 15 or 16 days journey from the nearest part of the Nile, directly west. This is the only port on all this coast to which provisions are brought from the land of Egypt, now called _Riffa_; and from this port of _Kossir_ all the towns on the coast of the Red Sea are provided. In old times, the town of _Kossir_ was built two leagues farther up the coast; but being found incommodious, especially as the harbour at that place was too small, it was removed to this place. To this day the ruins of old _Kossir_ are still visible, and there I believe was _Philoteras_. New _Kossir_ by observations twice verified is in lat. 26°15' N. being 136 leagues beyond _Swakem_. The port is a large bay quite open to the eastern winds, which on this coast blow with great force. Right over against the town there are some small shoals on which the sea breaks, between which and the shore is the anchorage for frigates and ships coming here for a loading. The town is very small and perhaps in the most miserable and barren spot in the world. The houses are more like hovels for cattle, some built of stone and clay, and others of sod, having no roofs except a few matts which defend the inhabitants from the sun, and from rain if any happen now and then to fall as it were by chance, as in this place it so seldom rains as to be looked upon as a wonder. In the whole neighbouring country on the coast, fields, mountains, or hills, there groweth no kind of herb, grass, tree, or bush; and nothing is to be seen but black scorched mountains and a number of bare hillocks, which environ the whole place from sea to sea, like an amphitheatre of barrenness and sterility, most melancholy to behold. Any flat ground there is, is a mere dry barren sand mixed with gravel. The port even is the worst I have seen on all this coast, and has no fish, though all the other ports and channels through which we came have abundance and variety. It has no kind of cattle; and the people are supplied from three wells near the town, the water of which differs very little from that of the sea.

[Footnote 307: In Purchas, Al Kossir is named Alcocer. Don John thinks this place to be the _Philoteras_ of Ptolomy; but Dr Pocock places it 2°40' more to the north, making Kossir _Berenice_, which is highly probable, as it is still the port of _Kept_, anciently Coptos, or of _Kus_ near it, both on the Nile, as well as the nearest port to the Nile on all that coast, which _Berenice_ was. Dr Pocock supposes old Kossir to have been _Myos Hormos_: but we rather believe it to have been Berenice.--Ast.]

The most experienced of the Moors had never heard of the name of Egypt[308], but call the whole land from _Al Kossir_ to Alexandria by the name of _Riffa_[309], which abounds in all kinds of victuals and provisions more than any other part of the world, together with great abundance of cattle, horses, and camels, there not being a single foot of waste land in the whole country. According to the information I received; their language and customs are entirely Arabic. The land, as I was told, is entirely plain, on which it never rains except for a wonder; but God hath provided a remedy by ordaining that the Nile should twice a year[310] overflow its natural bounds to water the fields. They said likewise that the Nile from opposite to _Al Kossir_, and far above that towards the bounds of Abyssinia, was navigable all the way to Alexandria; but having many islands and rocks, either it was necessary to have good pilots or to sail only by day. They told me likewise that the natives inhabited this barren spot of _Al Kossir_, as being the nearest harbour on the coast of the Red Sea to the Nile, whence provisions were transported; and that the inhabitants were satisfied with slight matts instead of roofs to their houses because not troubled with rain, and the matts were a sufficient protection from the sun: but made their walls of stone to defend themselves against the malignity and rapaciousness of the _Badwis_, a perverse people, void of all goodness, who often suddenly assaulted the place in hope of plunder, and frequently pillaged the caravans coming across from the Nile with provisions and other commodities.

[Footnote 308: No wonder, as _Messr_ is the name by which Egypt is known to the Arabs.--E.]

[Footnote 309: More properly _Al Rif_, which name more particularly belongs to part of Lower Egypt.--Ast.]

[Footnote 310: This is erroneous, as the Nile only overflows once yearly.--E.]

The 18th of April we fastened ourselves to a shoal about four leagues past _Kossir_, and set sail from thence at noon. The 19th, about half an hour past eight o'clock, while proceeding with fine weather, we were suddenly taken aback by a fierce gust at N.N.W. which obliged us to take shelter in an island called _Suffange-al-bahar_[311] or _Saffanj-al-bahr_, losing 4 or 5 leagues of way that we had already advanced. The name given to this island means in the Arabic a _sea-sponge_. It is 13 leagues beyond _Al Kossir_, in lat. 27° N. being in length about two leagues by about a quarter in breadth, all of sand without trees or water. Its harbour is good in all weathers; but upon the main land the number of bays, ports, and harbours about this place are wonderful. The best channel here is between the island, and the main, along the coast of the continent, as on the side next the island there are some shoals. Likewise in the northern entry to this port there are other shoals which need not be feared in coming in by day, and in the southern entrance there is a large rock in the very middle. The 20th at sunset we were about six leagues beyond this island of Safanj-al-bahr. From which island to a sandy, point about 1-1/2 league beyond, the coast trends N.N.W. and S.S.E. and from this point forwards to the end of the six leagues, the coast winds inwards to landwards forming a large bay, within which are many islands, ports, creeks, bays, and notable harbours. The 21st by day we were fast to the shore of an island called Sheduam, and the wind being calm, we rowed along the coast of the island, which, opposite to Arabia or the east side, is high and craggy, all of hard rock, three leagues long and two broad. This island is 20 leagues beyond _Al Kossir_, having no water nor any trees. It is between the two coasts of Arabia and Egypt, being five leagues from either. Beyond it to the north-west are three small low islands with shoals among them. An hour after sunset, we were upon the north cape or point of this island, whence we crossed towards the Arabian coast[312], and having no wind we took to our oars. Within a little it began to blow fair from the S.E. and we set sail steering N.W. At eleven next morning, we were upon the coast of the Stony Arabia, and soon sailed along its shore, entering two hours before sunset into the port _Toro_ or _Al Tor_, which may be seen front the island of Sheduam, distant 12 leagues, bearing N. by W. and S. by E.

[Footnote 311: _Safanj-al-Bahr_. In Arabic _Safanj, Sofinj_ and _Isfanj_, all signify _Sponge_, which is obviously derived from the Arabic word.--Ast.]

[Footnote 312: Probably meaning that part of Arabia between the Gulf of Suez and the Bahr-akkaba, called the promontory of Tor, of which Cape Mahomed forms the S.W. extremity,--E.]

_Toro_ or _Al Tor_ was of old called _Elana_, as may be seen in the writings of Ptolomy, Strabo, and other ancient writers, although our observation of the latitude differs materially from theirs. But they shew that _Elana_ was situated in the most inward part of a very great gulf, called _Sinus Elaniticus_[313], from the name of this place _Elana_, and in lat. 29°15' N. Now we know that _Toro_ is in lat. 28°10' N.[314] and lies upon a very long and straight coast. The cause of this great difference, if these places be the same, may have proceeded from erroneous information given to Ptolomy and the other ancient cosmographers. But that ancient _Elana_ and modern _Toro_ are the same, appears from this, that from thence to Suez both on the Arabian and Egyptian coasts of the Elanitic Gulf, not only is there no memorial or remains of any other ancient town, and the barrenness of the country, want of water, and rough craggy mountains, make it evident that in no other place could there be any habitation. Hence, considering that Ptolomy places Elana on the coast of _Arabia Petrea_, near adjoining to mount Sinai, and makes no mention of any town between it and the _City of Heroes_ on the upmost extremity of the Elanitic Gulf where the sea ends; and as on this shore of Arabia there is neither town, village, nor habitation, coming so near the position assigned to _Elana_ as _Toro_, and as it is impossible to inhabit between _Toro_ and _Suez_, it seems just to conclude that _Toro_ and _Elana_ are the same place. The port of _Toro_ seems likewise that mentioned in holy writ under the name of _Ailan_, where Solomon, king of Israel, caused the ships to be built which sailed to _Tarsis_ and _Ophir_ to bring gold and silver for the temple of Jerusalem: for taking away the second letter from _Ailan_, the ancient names are almost the same. Nor is it reasonable that it should be in any other place, as the timber for the navy of Solomon was brought from Lebanon and Antelibanus; and to avoid expences they would necessarily carry it to the nearest port, especially as the Jews then possessed the region of Idumea, and that part of the coast of Arabia Petrea which is between Toro and Suez. Strabo holds that _Elana_ and _Ailan_ are the same city; and when treating of this city in another place, he says, that from the port of _Gaza_ it is 1260 furlongs to the city of Ailan, which is situated on the _inwardest_ part of the Arabic Gulf[315]; "and there are two, one towards Gaza and Arabia, called the Sinus Elaniticus, from the city Elana which stands upon it; the other on the Egyptian side towards the _City of Heroes_ and the way from _Pelusium_ to this gulf is very small." This is what I would pick out from ancient authors.

[Footnote 313: Don Juan entirely mistakes this point of antiquity, in consequence of not having learnt that there was another and eastern gulf at the head of the Red Sea; the _Bahr-akkaba_ or real _Sinus Elaniticus_, on which is the town of _Ayla_, assuredly the ancient _Elana_ or _Aylan_.--E.]

[Footnote 314: If this observation be exact, the great promontory or peninsula between the gulfs at the head of the Red Sea must be extended too far south in the map constructed by Dr Pocock.--Ast.]

[Footnote 315: Had Don Juan de Castro been acquainted with the eastern gulf at the head of the Red Sea, called the _Bahr-akkaba_, he would have more readily chosen _Ayla_ for the seat of _Ailan_, and the dock-yard of the navy of Solomon, being at the _inwardest_ part of the Red Sea, and the port nearest to Gaza. Besides, the portion of the text marked with inverted commas, seems a quotation by Don Juan from Strabo, which distinctly indicates the eastern or Elanitic Gulf, and points to _Ayla_ as the seat of Elana and _Ailan_, and distinctly marks the other or western gulf, now that of Suez.--E.]

"As this is a point of great moment in geography, it deserves to be examined[316]. It is observable that Don Juan admits that both Ptolemy and Strabo make the Red Sea terminate to the north in two large gulfs, one towards Egypt and the other towards Arabia, at the end of which latter they place _Elana_. Yet here he rejects the authority of both geographers, alleging that both were mistaken, because Tor is situated on a very long and straight coast. He likewise cites Ptolomy as making the latitude of Elana 29°15' N.[317] yet accounts the difference between that position and the altitude found at Al Tor, 20°10', as of no significance here, though in former instances he had held the tables of Ptolomy as infallible. It is still stranger that Don Juan should after all admit of a gulf of _Elana_, as will be seen presently, and yet place it at a great distance, and at the opposite side of the sea from that on which Elana stands. However this may be, it is certain that Don Juan, and not the ancients, has been misinformed on this matter; for not only the _Arab_ geographers give a particular account of this eastern gulf, as will appear from the description of the Red Sea by _Abulfeda_, but its existence has been proved, by two English travellers, Dr Shaw and Dr Pocock. The errors which Don Juan has here fallen into, has been owing to not having examined the coast on the side of Arabia; for until the fleet came to the island of Sheduam, it had sailed entirely along the African shore; and then, leaving the north part of that island, it passed over to the coast of Arabia[318] for the first time, where it may be presumed that they fell in with the land some way to the north of the S.W. point of the great peninsula between the two gulfs. This cape in the maps by De L'Isle and Dr Pocock is called _Cape Mahomet_. Still however as the island of Sheduam seems to lie nearer the eastern gulf; its north end being at least eighteen or twenty miles to the southward of Cape Mahomet, it is surprising that Don Juan and the whole fleet should overlook that gulf, which indeed was done before by the Venetian who sailed along the Arabian shore in the fleet of Solyman Pacha. What Don Juan says about the identity of _Elana_ and _Ailan_ or _Aylan_ we shall not contend about, as the authority of Strabo, and the similarity of names are strong proofs. But we shall presently see that the Arabs place _Aylan_ at the head of a great gulf; and the distance he cites from Strabo, 1260 stadia from Gaza to Aylan, supposing it to be exact, is a proof that _Aylan_ cannot be the same with _Toro_. We shall only observe farther, that the positive denial by Don Juan of there being any such gulf as the _Elanitic_ on the east or side of Arabia, may have been the reason why it was not laid down in the maps of _Sanson_, or by any geographer before _De L'Isle_."--Ast. I. 124. a.

[Footnote 316: This paragraph, marked by inverted commas, is a dissertation by the editor of Astleys Collection, too important to be omitted, and too long for a note.--E.]

[Footnote 317: The latitude of Ayla in modern maps is about 29°10' N. having a very near coincidence.--E.]

[Footnote 318: Properly speaking only to the Arabian coast of the Gulf of Suez, not at all to the Arabian coast of the Red Sea.--E.]

The city of _Toro_ or _Al Tor_ is built on the sea-side along an extensive and fair strand or beach, and about a cannon-shot before coming to it we saw twelve palm-trees close together very near the sea; and from these a plain field extends to the foot of some high hills. These hills are part of a chain which extends from the straits of Ormuz or Persian Gulf, and which extend hither along the coast very high above the sea as far as Toro, where they leave the coast, "and with a great and sudden violence return from thence to the main towards the north-east, as angry and wearied by so long neighbourhood of the waters." _Arabia Petrea_ is divided by three mountains from _Arabia Felix,_ and on the highest tops of them some Christians lead holy and quiet lives. A little way beyond Toro, on the borders of the sea, a mountain begins to rise by little and little; and thrusting out a large high cape or promontory, seems to those in the town like three great and mighty separate mountains. This town of Tor is small but well situated, all its inhabitants being Christians who speak Arabic. It has a monastery of friars of the order of _Monserrat_, in which is the oracle or image of _Santa Catalina_ of Mount Sinai or St Catharine. These friars are all Greeks. The harbour of Toro is not large, but very secure, having opposite to the shore a long stony bank, between which and the shore is the harbour. At this place both the coasts of the gulf are only about three leagues distant.

Being desirous to learn some particulars concerning this country, I made myself acquainted with the friars, from whom I had the following information. They told me that Mount Sinai was _thirteen_ small days journey into the land, or about 18 leagues[319]. The mountain is very high, the country around being plain and open, having on its borders a great town inhabited by Christians, into which no Mahometan can enter except he who gathers the rents and duties belonging to the Turks. On the top of the mountain is a monastery having many friars, where the body of the blessed Virgin St Catharine lay buried. According to Anthony bishop of Florence, the body of this Holy Virgin was carried away by the angels from the city of Alexandria and buried on Mount Sinai. They told me farther that about four months before our arrival this most blessed and holy body was carried from the mountain with great pomp, on a triumphal chariot all gilt, to the city of Cairo, where the Christians of that city, which are the bulk of the inhabitants, came out to receive it in solemn procession, and set it with great honour in a monastery. The cause of this strange removal was the many insults which the monastery on Mount Sinai suffered from the Arabs, from whom the friars and pilgrims had often to redeem themselves with money; of which the Christians of Cairo complained to the Turkish governor, and received permission to bring the blessed and holy body to their city, which was done accordingly, in spite of a strenuous opposition from the friars of Mount Sinai. I am somewhat doubtful of the truth of this transportation, suspecting that the friars may have trumped up this story lest we might have taken the holy body from them, as they expected us with an army of 10,000 men. Yet they affirmed it for truth, expressing great sorrow for the removal. These friars told me likewise that several hermits lead a solitary and holy life in these mountains over against the town; and that all through the Stony Arabia, there are many towns of Christians. I asked if they knew where the Jews had passed the Red Sea; but they knew of no certain place, only that it must have been somewhere between _Toro_ and _Suez_. They said likewise, that on the Arabian coast of the Gulf, two or three leagues short of Suez, was the fountain which Moses caused to spring from the rock by striking it with his rod, being still called by the Arabs the fountain of Moses, the water of which is purer and more pleasant than any other. They said that from _Toro_ to _Cairo_ by land was seven ordinary days journey, in which the best and most direct way was through Suez: But that since the Turkish gallies came to Suez they had changed the road, going two leagues round to avoid Suez, after which they turned to the west.

[Footnote 319: Surely this passage should be only _three_ short days journey.--E.]

I afterwards conversed with a very honest, learned and curious Mahometan, whom I asked if he could tell where the Jews crossed the Red Sea; on which he told me that both in tradition and in some old writings it was said that the Jews, fleeing from the Egyptians, arrived on the coast of Egypt directly opposite to _Toro_, where Moses prayed to God for deliverance, and struck the sea twelve times with his rod, on which it opened in twelve several paths, by which the Jews passed over to the other side to where _Toro_ now stands; after which the Egyptians entering into these paths were all destroyed to the number of about 600,000 men. That from _Toro_ Moses led the Israelites to Mount Sinai, where Moses spake many times with God. I approved much of this opinion; for if the passage had been at Suez, as some insist, the Egyptians had no occasion to have entered into the sea for persecuting the Jews, as they could have gone round the bay and got before them, more especially as they were horsemen and the Jews all on foot. For though all these things came about by a miracle, we see always on like occasions there is a shew and manner of reason. I asked of this Moor if it were true that the Christians of Cairo had carried away the body of St Catharine from Mount Sinai; but he said he had never heard of it, neither did he believe the story; and that only four months before he had been in Cairo, which city they call _Mecara_[320], where he heard of no such thing. He thought likewise that the Christians about Mount Sinai would never have permitted such a thing, as they all considered that woman as a saint, and held her body in great reverence. He told me also that two or three leagues before coming to _Suez_ there is a fountain which was given to the Jews at the intercession of Moses, whom they call _Muzau_, the water of which surpasses all others in goodness. On inquiring what kind of a place was the town of _Suez_, he said he had never been there, as no person could enter that town except those appointed by the governor of Cairo for taking care of the gallies, nor come nearer than two leagues under pain of death.

[Footnote 320: Mecara, perhaps by mistake for Meçara or Mezara, which is very near Mesr as it is called by the Turks. Cairo is an Italian corruption of Kahera or al Kahira--Astl.]