Chapter III: Introduction: xiii

I. BOYHOOD. 1816-1834 1

II. WAITING FOR EMPLOYMENT—JOSÉ MARIA. 1834 11

III. ALEXANDRIA. 1840 20

IV. CONSTANTINOPLE AND LORD PONSONBY. 1840 30

V. CONSTANTINOPLE WITH SIR STRATFORD CANNING. 1841 49

VI. MISSION TO TANGIER 66

VII. POLITICAL AGENT AT TANGIER AND FIRST MISSION TO
MARÁKESH. 1845-1846 76

VIII. VISIT TO SALLI AND DEPARTURE FOR MARÁKESH. 1846 97

IX. RESIDENCE AT MARÁKESH AND RETURN TO TANGIER. 1846 108

X. DIFFICULTIES OF MR. HAY’S POSITION AT TANGIER.
1846-1854 133

XI. LIFE AT TANGIER 142

XII. SECOND MISSION TO MARÁKESH. 1855 167

XIII. BENABU. 1857 184

XIV. MR. HAY’S POSITION AT TANGIER. 1858 198

XV. THE WAR WITH SPAIN. 1859-1862 205

XVI. SIR JOHN HAY’S HOME AT TANGIER. 1862 221

XVII. THIRD MISSION TO MARÁKESH. 1863 230

XVIII. JOÃO, THE PORTUGUESE GUNSMITH 241

XIX. FOURTH MISSION TO MARÁKESH. 1872 264

XX. ASCENT OF THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS 288

XXI. MISSION TO FAS IN 1875 307

XXII. 1876-1879 318

XXIII. THIRD MISSION TO FAS. 1879-1880 329

XXIV. 1881-1884 338

XXV. LAST YEAR OF OFFICIAL LIFE. 1885 354

XXVI. OUT OF HARNESS 365

INDEX 399

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

* * * * *

PAGE

PORTRAIT OF SIR JOHN HAY DRUMMOND HAY
(_From a photograph by Barraud._) _Frontispiece_

SENYA EL HASHTI 229

RECEPTION BY SULTAN SID MOHAMMED _To face page_ 238

RAVENSROCK 353

PORTRAIT OF SIR JOHN HAY DRUMMOND HAY ON HORSEBACK
_To face page_ 368

* * * * *

NOTE

The system of orthography used in this book for native names and places is that adopted by the Council of the Royal Geographical Society, _the true sounds of words as locally pronounced being taken as the basis of spelling_, except in the case of old-recognised names such as Tangier (more properly Tanja). According to this system, vowels are pronounced as in Italian; consonants as in English; _kh_ and _gh_ as the Oriental gutturals.

Morocco, the name of the region of _Western_ Mauritania of Roman geography, has undoubtedly been corrupted from the native name ‘Moghreb’ (setting sun). Maroc, Marocco, Marruecos, Marok, &c., written by different peoples of Europe, are curious corruptions, some even further off from Moghreb than the English corruption of the native name, and no nearer to the old classic corruption _Mauritania_ than in beginning with _Ma_ instead of _Mo_.

The name of the ancient _city_ which we British call _Marocco_, or yet more absurdly _Morocco_, is in the mouth of the natives ‘_Marákesh_.’

SIR JOHN HAY DRUMMOND HAY

* * * * *