Chapter XXVI: Out of Harness (2)

When attacked by dogs on passing villages, the sow would turn on them and fight gallantly, until I came to the rescue with my hunting-whip. She became at length very troublesome, and would be off on the loose into the town whenever the stable-door happened to be left open. I had frequent complaints from bakers and greengrocers, and had heavy damages to pay for robberies of bread, so I gave orders that the sow was to be shut up in a yard.

One day, when the door had been left open, as the sow rushed rapidly up the street towards a greengrocer’s shop in the little market-place, where she was accustomed to rob, it happened that a young mulatto woman, whose legs had been paralysed for some years, and who gained her livelihood by begging, was crawling on her elbows and knees along the streets, coming down towards the Legation. She had never seen a pig in her life, so when she beheld a large black animal rushing frantically, as she supposed, to devour her, thought it was a ‘Jin[68].’

The shock was so great, that up she scrambled and ran off; the paralysis of her legs had ceased. This miracle performed by the sow was a source of wonder to all, especially to the Mohammedans, loth to believe that ‘Allah’ should make use of the unclean animal to heal the maimed. The next day the mulatto appeared at my gate, walking upright, to petition that I should give her compensation for the fright she had experienced, pleading also that the pig had deprived her of the means of gaining her livelihood, for she was now whole, and no one took pity and bestowed alms on her as before. I gave her only my blessing, for she was strong and young, and could work. The sow was presented by me to a gentleman in England, who wished to introduce a cross of the wild animal.

The sagacity of the boar is greater than that of most animals. A Moorish Sheikh dwelling in the mountains about forty miles from Tangier, brought as a gift to the Basha a full-grown boar, that had been caught when only two months old. The animal had become very tame; it was brought tied on the back of a pack mule.

A few days after presentation the Basha’s sons carried the boar out into the country and let it loose, slipping greyhounds to give chase. The boar knocked over the hounds, charged and ripped two horses, and got away. Next morning it was found feeding quietly in the yard of its master’s house, forty miles off! I was glad to learn that the owner, on hearing how his pet had been treated by the Basha’s sons, kept the animal until it died.

In the present century lions have rarely been seen in the Northern province of Morocco.

During a residence of many years I have only heard of two having been seen in the woods between Tangier and Cape Spartel. I cannot account for these lions having wandered so far from the Atlas Mountains—where they are still to be found—except, as the Moors of those regions relate, that when the winter has been unusually cold and snow has fallen heavily, the wild animals which dwell in the higher parts of the Atlas descend to the valleys and plains. Should a thaw suddenly set in, and rivers and brooks become swollen, the lions and other wild animals which seek to return to the mountains are prevented repassing the rapid streams, and stray away from the district, seeking for forest or for an uninhabited country, and, moving along the chain of hills to the northward, reach the district of Spartel—which is about seven miles square—bounded on the western side by the Atlantic and on the northern by the Straits of Gibraltar.

Early one morning I had a visit from several inhabitants of the village of ‘Jamah Makra,’ not far from the site of my present villa ‘Ravensrock,’ which stands on a hill, three miles out of Tangier, surrounded by woods. The men came to request that I should assemble my hunters and sally out in pursuit of a wild animal which, they related, had lacerated with its claws the flank of a mare and bitten it in the neck. They informed me that they had been roused in the middle of the night by the tramp of horses galloping through the lanes—snorting and neighing—and supposed that cavalry had been sent to surround the village. But to their surprise they found their own ponies (which are allowed to run loose on the hills when not required for agricultural purposes, and live in a half-wild state, never allowing man to approach them, especially at night-time) had by instinct sought safety in the village, trying to penetrate even into the huts. Amongst the herd was the wounded mare, in a dying state.

I assembled a party of hunters with their boar-dogs, and proceeding to the spot we found round the village tracks of a large animal; evidently of the feline race, as the footprints were round, with no mark of nails, but had pads, as in the print of a cat’s foot. The beast appeared to have avoided as much as possible the open path, and to have walked near or amongst the ilex bushes, on which we found long tawny hairs, showing it was a male lion. We also came across the half-eaten carcasses of a boar and of a porcupine. There were marks too as of a herd of boar making a stampede in a southerly direction, fleeing from the dread monarch of the woods.

We turned our dogs into the thicket—where, by the tracks, we knew the lion had entered—and placed two guns at each run. But the dogs returned from the thicket and shrank behind their masters. They had evidently come upon or winded the lion, and we could not induce them to hunt. The beaters, after entering the thicket, firing guns, and beating drums, refused to advance further; so we had to abandon the hunt.

A woman whom we met informed us that, on going to a fountain in her orchard to draw water, she had met a ‘jin’ (evil spirit), evidently, from her description, a lion; that she became paralysed from fright and could not move; that the ‘jin’ had eyes like lamps, and after gazing at her had turned aside into the bush.

The Moors believe that lions will never attack a nude woman, such is the magnanimous beast’s delicate sense of shame. Lionesses, it is to be concluded, are less particular. The dame did not mention that she had a knowledge of this, so we know not whether she dropped her vestments to save her life.

There was a good moon; so I determined to sit for the lion, safely perched on a rock, where, though it would be possible for a lion to climb, yet I should have had a great advantage in an encounter with gun and pistols. I passed the night in a state of excitement—starting at every rustle made by rabbit, ichneumon, or even rats—without seeing anything of the king of beasts. But about midnight I heard what sounded from a distance like the deep bellow of a bull.

A few days later, hearing that the track of the lion had been seen at ‘Ain Diab,’ a wood near Cape Spartel, I collected the hunters and rode to the ground, about eight miles from Tangier. There we tracked the lion into a dense thicket. The dogs again refused to hunt, as on the previous occasion, winding no doubt the lion. This was good proof that he was at home; so posting the guns, I directed the beaters to drive the wood from the foot of the hill and that guns should occasionally be fired and drums beaten.

A few minutes after I had taken up my post a Moor hurried up to where I was standing, in a great state of excitement, pale as death, saying, ‘I have seen the man[69]!’ ‘What man?’ I asked. He repeated, ‘I have seen the man! I had entered the thicket to look at an olive-tree from which I thought I could cut a good ramrod; there is a rock rising about twenty feet above the olive-tree, and as I stooped to look whence I could best cut a branch, I saw a great shaggy head, with fierce eyes glaring at me from between two huge paws. I had laid down my gun to cut the olive stick; I dared not turn to take it up again, so left it there and crawled back through the bush to tell you what I have seen.’

The rock, which he then pointed out, was about two hundred yards from where we stood. I collected the sportsmen and selected three of them (my brother and two Moors upon whose courage I could depend), and we determined to beard the lion in his den. My left arm was in a sling, having been injured while playing cricket a few days previously. As we advanced into the dense thicket I was prevented, by the pain caused by the branches knocking against my arm, from following quickly my companions. Carried away by their desire to slay the lion, they rushed on headlong, regardless of wait-a-bit thorns and other impediments; so I was left in the lurch. Feeling uncertain about the exact direction they had taken, but hearing, as I thought, the sound of some one passing in front of me, I shouted, ‘Where are you? why are you returning?’ No reply. Yet it was evident the moving object had approached me within a very few yards. Again I called, ‘Why don’t you speak?’ Then I heard a rush, as I suddenly came to an open spot of sandy soil, upon which I could trace the footmarks of the lion who had just passed. The animal had evidently moved away from the rock when he heard or saw the three men approaching, and having no desire to attack man unprovoked, had doubled back, passing close to me. All this flashed through my brain; I halted, kept perfectly still, holding my breath, for I had not the courage, alone and with an injured arm, to follow the dread beast. Moreover, I could never have caught it up, at least I tried so to convince myself, and thus to hush any feeling of shame at my cowardice.

My companions returned a few minutes afterwards, reporting that they had reached the rock where the lion had been; but he had evidently left on their approach, and they had tracked him through the bush to the spot where I had stood when he passed. We followed the direction the lion took for some time without success, and we supposed he must have made off at a swinging trot.

The following day we heard that an ox had been killed on the hills of Anjera between Tangier and Tetuan, and that the lion had gone in the direction of the snow-topped mountains of Beni Hassén.

On each visit of a lion to the Tangier district the track of a hyena had been seen to follow that of the sultan of the forest.

On one occasion, when there were rumours of a lion having been heard of in the Tangier district, and we were out hunting boar in the woods near Spartel, I heard several shots fired from the side of a hill where I had posted the guns, and a beater shouting to me, as I stood hidden behind a small rock in some low bush, ‘“Ya el Awar!”—Oh ye blind! The lion to you!’ An instant after I viewed, bounding over the bushes, a large shaggy animal. With its huge mouth open and bristling mane, it looked very terrible; but I knew at once it was not a lion; so I waited till the beast was within a few yards and sent a bullet through its heart. It turned out to be a very large Hyena rufus—striped, not spotted—larger than any specimen of that animal I have seen in the Zoological Gardens or any menagerie.

The stench of the animal was overpowering; the skin was in beautiful condition, and proved very handsome when preserved.

A grand lion was seen many years ago, standing in the early morning on the sand-hills which line the beach close to the town of Tangier, and causing great alarm. But it turned out to be a tame lion which a ‘Shloh’ woman—who, as a Sherífa, was endowed with a slight halo of sanctity—had brought captive from the Atlas Mountains. She led it about with only a loose rope round its neck, as she begged from village to village, and had arrived outside the gates of Tangier the previous evening, after they were closed, and she had laid down to sleep near the lion, which, during the night, had strayed away. This lion was quite tame and harmless, and came back to her from the sand-hills when she called it.

A Spanish gentleman told me that returning home late one dark night from a party in Tangier, carrying a small lantern to light his way, he saw what he fancied was a donkey coming towards him in one of the very narrow streets of the town where two stout persons on meeting can hardly pass each other. He turned his lantern on the object, and, to his dismay, saw the glistening eyes and shaggy head of a lion which he had already seen led in daytime by the woman through the streets. The beast was alone, without its keeper. The Don said he had never made himself so small as when he stood against a closed door to allow his Majesty to pass; which he did quite pacifically.

‘Oh ye blind! The lion to you!’

This accusation of blindness is perhaps the mildest form of abuse employed by the beaters, in the excitement of the hunt, to the guns posted to await the boar. Sir John, as Master of the Hunt, shared in the very liberal abuse indulged in by the men who had laboriously driven the boar from the thick coverts towards him and his friends, native and foreign, who waited to shoot the pigs as they broke. Every possible term of abuse—and Arabic is rich in such—together with imprecations such as only Oriental imagination could devise, would be yelled at them as a warning not to miss. Strangers too would always be indicated by any peculiarity in their appearance or dress. Neither did the excited beaters, at such moments, put any check on their rough wit. But the railing of Moorish sportsmen at each other, however violent in the ardour of the chase, is never resented.

As a case in point, Sir John related the following story.

A former Governor of Tangier, a thorough sportsman, was out hunting on one occasion, when a man of low degree who was acting as beater, and, as is usually the case, had his own dogs with him, started a boar in the direction of the Basha, who was sitting near the animal’s expected path ready to receive him. The beater called out, swearing lustily at the Basha, and using every opprobrious term he could think of; adding that if he missed his shot he should never be allowed to fire again!

The Basha fired and killed the boar.

Some little time after, when the beat was finished, the huntsmen assembled as usual, and the Basha asked who it was that had started the boar he had shot. The poor beater, feeling he had exercised the licence of the chase rather too boldly, kept somewhat in the background, but, on this challenge, came forward and acknowledged that it was he who had done so.

‘And what did you shout out to me when the boar took in my direction?’ asked the Basha. The beater, dismayed, was silent. But on the question being repeated, acknowledged having called out, ‘The boar to you—oh blind one!’

‘Only that!’ exclaimed the Basha. ‘Surely I heard you abuse me. Tell me what you said.’

In reply to this the beater, in desperation, burst out with all the abuse he had uttered. Whereupon the Basha, taking from his wallet four ‘metskal’ (then worth some three Spanish dollars), presented them to the beater, saying, ‘Take this. I know you were anxious on account of your dogs, and for the success of the sport. I pardon your abuse of me.’

After his retirement from his official position, Sir John lived little more than seven years, dividing his time between Morocco and Europe, returning, as has been said, for the winter to his beloved ‘Ravensrock,’ enjoying his sport to the end, and at intervals jotting down his ‘Scraps from my Note-book’ as a slight record of his life. ‘I feel,’ he says, referring to the appearance of some of his stories in _Murray’s Magazine_, ‘like a dwarf amongst tall men. Never mind. If my relatives and friends are pleased and amused, I shall continue to unwind the skein of my life till I reach my infancy.’ Among the last of the notes made by Sir John in his ‘Note-book’ was the following, which may be appropriately introduced at the close of this sketch of his career.

_Body and Soul._

‘The death of the aged is always easy,’ said the F’ki Ben Yahia, ‘compared with the death of the young.’

‘This arises,’ continued the F’ki, ‘from the willingness with which the immortal soul is glad to flee from an aged body, corrupted by a long residence in this world, and from disgust at the sin and wickedness into which it has been plunged by the depravity of the body. Whereas, the young body and soul are loth to part; for the soul rejoices in the innocent enjoyments of youth and the harmless pleasures of this world, and to separate them is, as it were, to separate the young damsel from her first pure love.’

‘Oh, merciful God!’ exclaimed the F’ki, ‘put away the corruption of my body, and teach me to follow the purer inspiration of the soul which was breathed into me by Thee, O Almighty and Incomprehensible God!’

In Berwickshire, at Wedderburn Castle, a place then rented by him, Sir John Hay Drummond Hay died on the evening of Monday, Nov. 27, 1893.

He was buried in the churchyard of Christ Church, Duns. A few days after the funeral one of the family received a letter from a member of the British Legation at Tangier, in which he mentioned that on going to the Legation on the morning of Nov. 27, he was surprised to see the British flag at half-mast, and, calling to the kavass in charge, reprimanded him for his carelessness, directing him to take the flag down.

The kavass excused himself, saying that, while hauling down the flag the previous evening, the halyard had broken, and he had consequently been unable to lower the flag further; but that he had sent for a man to swarm the mast and repair the halyard and thus release the flag. This however, the writer added, was not accomplished till next morning.

Thus it happened that while the man was passing away who for forty years had represented Great Britain in Morocco, the British flag remained at half-mast.

INDEX.

* * * * *

Abbas Pasha, 26.

Abbotsford, 3.

Abd-el-Hadi, 136.

Abd-el-Kader, 69, 71, 72.

Abd-el-Kerim, 227.

Aberdalgie, 6.

Aberdeen, Lord, 44, 66, 68.

Acre, 30.

Addington, H. C., 135; his letter to Sir J. D. Hay, 140.

Agadir, 317.

Agraz battle, 160.

Ahal Kubla tribe, 297.

Ahmed Ben Ali, 381.

Ain Dalia, 79.

Ain Diab wood, 392.

Ain-Umast fountain, 122.

Aisa, 228.

Aisawa, or snake-charmers, 177.

Aji, 236.

Akba el Hamra hills, 85.

Akhlij village, 292.

Alarbi el Saidi, 184.

Alcalá, 14.

Alexandria, 24.

Alfred, Prince, at Tangier, 203.

Alhádari, 147.

Alhucema, Island of, 148.

Ali Bufra, 241.

Alison, Charles, 49, 73.

Allen, Mr., 347.

Amar, Sheikh, 252.

Andersen, Hans Christian, ‘In Spain,’ 222, 225; his description of
the old Legation, 222; his letter to Lady Hay, 225.

Anjera, 186, 393.

Arab dance, 91.

Arára, 366, 374.

Argan tree, 122.

‘Arum arisarum’ or yerna, 325 _note_.

Ashkar, caves of, 364.

Assuad, Sultan, 99; inscription on his tomb, 99 _note_.

Athol, H.M.S., 6.

Atlas Mountains, 116, 272, 276, 289, 293, 390; valley, 290.

Austria, Emperor of, 363.

Awára plain, 185, 369, 371, 376.

Awínats wood, 376.

Azaila, 137, 242.

Azamor, 169.

Azdot, 142.

Bab-el-Haddad, or the Smithy Gate, 99.

Bab-el-Khemés, or the Thursday-gate, 111.

Bab-el-Mahsen, or the Government-gate, 289.

Bab Hamár gate, 107.

Bab Khadár, or ‘the Green Gate,’ 112.

Bakáli, Sheríf, 283.

Ball, Mr. J., 88 _note_.

Bankhead, Charles, 49.

Bardlaiimi, 129.

Barker, Mr. Burchardt, 16.

Barnett, Colonel, 63.

Barseset, Izak, 128.

Basha Hamed, 223.

Beehive, a Moorish, 195 _note_.

Beheira u el Gintsor, 269.

Bell, Dr., 23.

Ben Abd-el-Sadek, 364.

Ben Dawud, 275.

Ben Dris, the Grand Uzir, 113, 301; conferences with Sir J. D. Hay,
113, 115, 117.

Ben Isa, 376.

Ben Nasr, F’ki Sid Mohammed and Zarhoni, dialogue between, 81.

Ben Nis, 283.

Benabu, Governor of Tangier, 184; story of his arrest and death,
184-192; his system of governing, 193.

Beni Aros, 210.

Beni Gorfet mountain, 242.

Beni Hassén mountain, 393; tribe, 90.

Beni M’suar mountain, 242, 371.

Benibugaffer village, 144, 146.

Benisargan, Jakob, 128.

Benshiten, 131.

Berbers, origin of the, 291.

Besika Bay, 60.

Beyrout, 30.

Birra Burub pass, 269.

Boar-hunting, 366-389.

Bojador, Cape, 317.

Bokhari guards, 119, 274.

Bonelli eagle, 367.

Borj Ustrak, 158.

Bosco, his sleight of hand, 33.

Briant, 43.

Brij, 368.

Brooks, Mr., 296.

— Mrs., 363.

Broussa, 51.

Bu Amar hill, 371.

Bubána river, 185.

Buceta, Colonel, Governor of Melilla, 149.

Buchanan, Mr., 208.

Bugeaud, Maréchal, 79.

Bulwer, Sir Henry, 68.

—, Mr., 67, 68, 70, 71, 185.

Buyukdere, 50.

Cadiz, 225.

Campbell, Colonel, 28.

Canning, Lady, 47, 66.

Canning, Sir Stratford, 47, 58, 66; appointed Ambassador at
Constantinople, 49; his method of conducting business, 49; letter
from Sir J. D. Hay on the state of affairs in Tangier, 68-71.

Carstensen, Mr., 142, 223.

Cartwright, Mr., 66.

Castelar, Señor, 207.

Cattle-lifting in Morocco, 193.

Ceuta, its advantages over Gibraltar, 234.

Chapman, Mrs., anecdote of Sir J. D. Hay, 164.

Charmes, M., contributor of _Débats_, 355.

Cholera, 23, 166, 325.

Christ Church, Duns, 397.

Christina, Queen, 11.

Cockburn, Lord, 2.

Commercial Convention, advantages of a, 168; basis of the Treaty,
179; ratification, 182; revision, 338, 343, 348, 360.

Constantinople, 30.

Copenhagen, 66.

Curzon, Robert, 49.

Dad i Sirr Island, 292.

Daha, 128.

Dar Aklau, 85.

Dar-el-Baida, 314, 340; number of deaths from cholera, 325.

Dar-Mulai-Ali, 341.

Davidson, 317.

Denmark, King of, confers the order of the Grand Cross on Sir J. D.
Hay, 71, 363.

Derby, Lord, 317, 353; his Eastern policy, 319.

Diosdado, Señor, 343.

Doyle, Percy, 30, 49.

Dra, 127.

Drummond, Dean, Rector of Hadleigh, 5.

Dufferin, Lord, 336.

Dukála, Governor of, 105.

Duns, 397.

Dupplin Castle, 5.

Dwarf, The, 40; his wife, 41.

‘Eating up,’ the practice of, 233.

Edinburgh, 1.

Egypt, plague in, 22.

El Araish, 87, 136.

El Kántara, 179.

El Kra, a lake or marsh, 89.

El Ksar battle, 241.

El Kus river, 87.

Eleg, 128.

Erhamna district, 106, 266.

Escazena, 112, 116.

E’Sfi, or the pure, 285.

E’Suizi, Governor, 93.

‘Etymons of the English Language,’ 5.

Fairlie, 232.

Falcons, hunting with, 266; legend, 267.

Fas, 93; first mission to, in 1868, 236; second mission in 1875, 307;
third mission in 1880, 329; the ladies of, 237.

Fatmeh, 190.

Féraud, M., 354.

Ferguson, 3.

Ferry, M., 345, 351.

Ford, Sir Francis Clare, 11.

—, Mr., his ‘Handbook of Spain,’ 11.

Forde, Mr., 214.

Forster, Henry, 20.

France, relations with Morocco, 66, 133, 135, 345; demands of, 69.

Franciscan Brotherhood, Father Superior of the, 343.

Frost, J., 99 _note_.

Fum Ajrud stream, 158.

_Gaulois_, charges against the Foreign Representatives, 346, 351.

Ghaba Sebaita, 366.

Ghamára mountains, 158.

Gharbía, Kaid Sheikh of, 85.

Ghásats E’Nil, or the Garden of the Nile, 112, 118.

Ghemáts river, 291.

Gibraltar, question of the exchange for Ceuta, 233; measures against
the cholera, 325, 326.

_Gibraltar Chronicle_, extract from, on the Moorish loan, 220.

Gla, a stream, 88.

Glaui, heights of, 292.

Glücksberg, Duc de, 68.

Gordon, Captain, 6.

Gordon, Hon. A., letter from Sir J. D. Hay on his mission to Sultan
Mulai Abderahman, 76.

Goschen, Mr., 336.

Granville, Lord, interview with Sir J. D. Hay, 350; his defence of
him in the House of Lords, 351.

Green, Mr., 207, 226.

Gregorio de Borgas y Tarius, Don, 7.

Grey, Admiral, 233.

—, Mrs., 9 _note_.

Habor, 128.

Hadj Abdallah Lamarti, 148, 376.

Hadj Abdallah Tif, Governor of Rabát, 93.

Hadj Abderahman Ben el Amri, 90.

Hadj Abd Selam, 104, 109.

Hadj Alarbi, 312, 378.

Hadj Gabári, the jester, 116.

Hadj Hamed Lamarti, 296, 376; illness, 365.

Hadj Kassem, 100.

Hadj Kassim, 161-164.

Haffa wood, 377, 378.

Haha, Governor of, 284.

Hajara el Ghaghab, or rock of ravens, 224.

Hajot, 315.

Hall, Captain, 148, 152.

Hamádsha, dances of the, 91, 177.

Hammond, Lord, 20.

Hara, or village of lepers, 107, 111.

Hashef river, 85.

Hassan, Mosque of, 92.

Hastings, Marquess of, 5.

Havelock, 4.

Hay, Lady, 296, 312, 328; letter from Hans Christian Andersen, 225.

—, Sir Edward, 6.

—, Sir John Hay Drummond, birth, 1; at the Edinburgh Academy, 2;
Charterhouse, 4; at Tangier, 7; under the tuition of Don Gregorio,
8; meets José Maria, 11; proficiency in Arabic, 16; his ‘Western
Barbary,’ 17; his fortune told by Leila, 17; appointed Attaché at
Constantinople, 20; at Marseilles, 22; fear of the plague, 22;
attacked by cholera, 24; at Alexandria, 24; purchases a gem, 26;
at Constantinople, 30; his first dispatch, 30; life at the Embassy,
42; at the Armenian banker’s, 45; effect of the narghileh, 47;
selected confidential Attaché to Sir S. Canning, 50; sent to
Broussa, 51; receives hospitality from a Turk, 52-57; obtains leave
of absence, 58, 66; at Paris, 60; Egypt, 63; Stockholm, 66;
Tangier, 67; his letter to Sir S. Canning on the state of affairs
in Tangier, 68-71; appointed Political Agent and Consul-General in
Morocco, 74; starts on his mission to Sultan Mulai Abderahman in
1846, 77; an Arab serenade, 91; reception at Rabát, 92-96; attacked
by a mob at Salli, 101; at Marákesh, 108; received by the Sultan,
113, 118, 216, 217, 232, 270; conferences with Uzir Ben Dris, 115,
117; his return to Tangier, 124; on the habits of the Moors, 124;
the Jews, 125; promoted to the rank of Chargé d’Affaires, 134;
his efforts to develop trade, 134, 140, 168; his ride from El
Araish, 136; adventure with a Moslem, 138; his firm policy, 139;
marriage, 142; influence over the natives, 142, 363; love of sport,
143, 365; suppression of piracy among the Rifians, 144; his kindness
during the famine, 164; on the advantages of a Commercial Convention,
168; his second mission to Marákesh in 1855, 169; reception at Azamor,
169; at Shawía, 171; result of his mission, 179; ratification of the
Treaty, 181; created a C.B., 183; on the downfall of Benabu, 184-192;
gift of a leopard, 199; on the outbreak of hostilities with Spain,
206; his efforts to protect property, 208; attack of influenza, 213;
his mission to Meknes, 214; terms of the proposed loan, 218; nominated
K.C.B., 219; suffers from his eyes, 219; the British Legation, 221;
‘The Wilderness,’ 223; his summer residence, 224; acts of kindness,
226; third mission to Marákesh in 1863, 230; at Rabát, 230; on the
exchange of Gibraltar for Ceuta, 233; at Fas, 236; audiences of the
Sultan, 238; proposed reforms, 238; Minister Plenipotentiary, 264;
fourth mission to Marákesh in 1872, 264; legend of the falcon, 267;
enters Marákesh, 269; dinner with Sid Musa, 272; the menu, 273; his
final interview with the Sultan, 276-282; entry into Mogador, 284;
crossing the bar at Saffi, 286; expedition to the Atlas mountains,
289; mission to Fas in 1875, 307; proposes various reforms, 314, 317;
reception by Sultan Mulai Hassan, 315; at the feast of the Mulud,
316; on the Sahara scheme, 317; his annual holidays, 318; on the
crisis in Turkey, 319; on Sir H. Layard’s appointment, 320; on the
question of Protection, 321; famine, 324; cholera, 325; the
quarantine regulations, 325; illness of his son, 327; third mission
to Fas in 1879, 329; interview with Uzir Mokhta, 330-333; reforms
agreed to, 334; promoted to the rank of Envoy Extraordinary, 335;
letters from M. Tissot, 336; failure of his project for the
exportation of grain, 339; at Marákesh, 340; on the state of Morocco,
344, 347; on the relations between France and Morocco, 345, 349;
charges against him, 346; interview with Lord Granville, 350; G.C.M.G.
conferred, 350; exoneration in the House of Lords, 350-353; his
impression of M. Féraud, 354; weariness of his work, 356; on the
system of slavery, 357; prison reform, 358; fails to obtain a
revision of the Commercial Treaty, 360; delight at leaving, 360;
letter from the Sultan’s Prime Minister, 361-363; Privy Councillor,
363; accounts of boar hunts, 366-389; introduces pigsticking, 373;
hunting a lion, 390; death, 397.

—, Mr. E. A. Drummond, 1, 5, 28, 293; appointed Political Agent and
Consul-General in Morocco, 6; his mission to Marákesh, 66; illness
and death, 68.

—, Mr. R. Drummond, 293, 296; consul at Mogador, 324; illness, 327.

—, Mr. R., 8.

—, Mr. R. W., 139.

—, Mrs., 4.

—, Mrs. R. Drummond, 237, 328.

—, Miss, 237, 240, 312; extracts from her diary, 284, 289; received
by the Sultan, 342.

—, Miss A., 266.

—, Louisa, 9.

Hiazna, Governor of, 72.

‘Hill,’ the, 224.

Hitchcock, Major, 296.

Hodges, Colonel, 21, 24.

Hooker, Sir Joseph, letters from Sir J. D. Hay, 264, 318, 324.

Ibdaua, Sheikh of, 87.

Ibrahim Pasha, 30.

Isly, battle of, 79.

Jamah Makra village, 390.

Jebar, the Khalífa of Wazan, 345.

Jebel Habíb hills, 371.

Jebel Kebír, 207 _note_, 224.

Jebel Musa, 224.

Jebíla hills, 105, 269.

Jelab, torture of the, 186 _note_.

Jewesses, the, 129, 271; dress, 130, 271.

Jews, the, of Morocco, 125, 271; number of, 129; despotic rules,
130; oath, 131.

Jin, or evil spirit, 389, 391.

João, the Portuguese Gunsmith, story of, 241-263.

Joinville, Prince de, 67, 68.

José, Don, 101.

José Maria, the famous brigand, 11; account of his pardon, 12; his
robberies, 13; his horse, 14; his death, 15.

‘Journal of the Society for Psychical Research,’ extract from, 327.

Judah Azalia, 126; his memorandum about the Jews, 127-129.

Judah El Hayugni, 129.

Kab ghazal, or gazelle hoofs, 273.

Kaddor, 109.

Kaid Abbas Emkashéd, 161.

Kaid Abd-el-Kerim, 77, 109; his account of the battle of Isly, 79-81.

Kaid Ben Abu, 78, 98.

Kaid Ben Tahir, Governor of Azamor, 169.

Kaid Bu Aiesh, 269.

Kaid ‘Bu Jebel,’ 78.

Kaid-el-Meshwa, or High Chamberlain, 216.

Kaid Erha, meaning of the term, 265.

Kaid E’Susi, 96.

Kaid Maclean, 327.

Kaid Madáni, 112.

Kaid Maimon and the lion, 303-306.

Kaid Meno, theft of a horse, 308-311.

Kaid Serbul, 87.

Kasba Faráo, 214.

Kasba Jedída, 342.

Kenneth III, King of Scots, 267.

Khamás mountains, 158.

Kholj river, 85.

Kinnoull, Earl of, 1, 5.

Kubbats E’Suiera, or the ‘Picture Cupola,’ 112.

Kus, 317.

Kutubía Mosque, 106, 108, 111, 269.

‘Lab-el-barod,’ 311, 313.

Lahleh, 128.

Lalande, Admiral, 60; his message to Lord Ponsonby, 61; death, 63.

Lamarti, Selam, 17.

Lambton, Colonel, 296.

Lane, E. W., his ‘Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians,’ 77.

Lasakia, 129.

Lasats, 129.

Laurin, M., 27.

Layard, Sir Henry, letters from Sir J. D. Hay on the exchange of
Gibraltar for Ceuta, 233; on his reception by the Sultan, 288; on the
accession of Mulai Hassan, 307; on laying a cable, 314; appointed
Ambassador at Constantinople, 320.

Leech, 4.

Legation, the British, at Tangier, 221.

Leila predicts Sir J. D. Hay’s fortune, 17-19.

Lerchundi, Padre, 344.

Liddell, Mr., 207.

Lion and the lark, anecdote of the, 84; hunting a, 390.

Lively, H.M.S., 264, 285.

Loncarty battle, 267.

Londonderry, Lady, 36; her interview with the Sultan, 37.

Londonderry, Lord, 36.

Lorimer, Dr., 23.

Lynedoch, Lord, 1.

Maada or sedge canoe, 89, 90.

Mactavish, 49.

Madrid, conference on the system of protection in Morocco, 323.

Mahazen river, 243.

Mahmud Canal, 25.

Mahmud, Sultan, his dwarf, 40.

Maimon, the leopard, 199.

Malmesbury, Lord, 198, 353.

Marákesh, 66, 105, 108; first mission to, in 1846, 77; second mission
in 1855, 169; third mission in 1863, 230; fourth mission in 1873,
264; in 1882, 340.

Marcussen, Mme., letters from Sir J. D. Hay, 138, 139.

Marseilles, 22.

Marshan plateau, 268.

Matra, James Mario, 221.

Mauboussin, M., 60.

Maule, William, 49.

Mazagan, 264, 314.

McKenzie & Co., 317.

Mehemet Ali, 24, 44.

Meknes, mission to, in 1861, 214.

Melilla fortress, 144.

Mesfíwa village, 106, 291, 292.

Meteor, the, 124.

Miranda, H.M. frigate, 148.

Mishra-el-Hashef river, 137, 239.

Mogador, Island of, 69, 123; famine in, 324.

Mohammed Ben Abdallah, Sultan, 123.

— Ben El Amrani, bastinadoed, 105.

— Gharrit, letter of farewell to Sir J. D. Hay, 361.

Mokhta, the Uzir, 329; questions of etiquette, 331; interview with
Sir J. D. Hay, 332; his palace, 333.

Mona, system of, 86, 340.

‘Moorish Prince, a story of a,’ 300-303.

Moors, habits of the, 124; their reception in England, 135.

Morocco, introduction of the plague in 1826, 24; famine in, 164;
decline of trade, 167; population, 167; advantages of a Commercial
Convention, 168; ratification of the Treaty, 182; cattle-lifting, 193;
punishment of, 194; proposed loan, 214; terms of the payment, 218;
final settlement, 220; slavery in, 357.

—, Sultan of, 113, _see_ Mulai Abderahman.

Mujáhidin or ‘Warriors of the Faith,’ 185.

Mul Meshwa, or chief Usher, 71, 112.

Mulai Abdelmalek, 241.

Mulai Abderahman, Sultan of Morocco, 71, 72, 113, 144; receives Sir
J. D. Hay, 113, 118, 180; appearance and dress, 114; harem, 119; his
fondness for animals, 199, 202; death, 205.

Mulai Abderahman Ben Hisham, Sultan, 300.

Mulai Ahmed, 242, 300-303.

Mulai Ali, 129, 341.

Mulai Hashem, 129.

Mulai Hassan, Sultan of Morocco, accession, 307; reception of Sir J.
D. Hay, 315, 330, 340; appearance, 315.

Mulai Ismael, 119.

Mulai Mohammed, Sultan of Fas, 241.

Mulai Sliman, 274.

Mulai Soliman, 110.

Mulai Yazid, tomb of, 110.

Mulud, feast of the, 316.

Murray, Mr. H., 68.

—, John, 4.

_Murray’s Magazine_, Sir J. D. Hay’s reminiscences, 367.

Napier, Admiral Sir Charles, 30, 145.

—, and Ettrick, Lord, 49, 73.

— of Magdala, Lord, 353.

Nares, Captain, 318.

Nelson, Lord, 235.

Nicolas, Commander, 218.

Nion, M. de, 68.

Norderling, Mrs., letters from Sir J. D. Hay on his reception from
Sultan Mulai Hassan, 315; on the Sahara scheme, 317.

Ofran, 128.

Ordega, M., 345; recalled, 354.

Oriental phraseology, specimen of, 361.

Orléans, Duc de, at Tangier, 203; his letter to Sir J. D. Hay, 203.

Oscar, King of Sweden, 66.

Palmerston, Lady, 75.

—, Lord, 17, 20.

Peñon fortress, 144, 148.

Pisani, Etienne, 49.

—, Mr. Frederick, Chief Dragoman of the Embassy, 31, 49, 73.

Plague, the, in Egypt, 22, 24.

Ponsonby, Lady, 33, 42, 75.

—, Lord, 25, 30, 42; his address to the Sultan, 32; entertains Bosco
at dinner, 33; charm of manner, 43; his policy, 44; reply to Admiral
Lalande, 63; his letter to Sir J. D. Hay on his appointment in
Morocco, 74.

Pontet, M., 44.

Poole, Stanley Lane, his ‘Life of Sir S. Canning,’ 73.

Porter, Commodore, 63.

—, Mr. George, 64.

Protection, system of, 322; Conference on, 323.

Rabát, 62, 217, 230.

Raeburn, 1.

Rahma, 247.

Ras-ed-Daura lake, 89.

Ras-el-Ain fountain, 129.

‘Ravensrock,’ Sir J. D. Hay’s summer residence, 224.

Reade, Mr., 207.

Reshid, Governor of Shawía, 171.

Reshid Pasha, 36.

Rif country, 144, 158; population, 158; inhabitants, 159.

Rifians, piracy of the, 144, 146; costume, 152; parley with Sir J. D.
Hay, 153-157; industry, 159; courage, 160; morality, 160.

Robinson and Fleming, Messrs., 220.

Roche, M., 95.

Rosebery, Lord, 360.

Russell, Lord John, 205; his defence of Sir J. D. Hay, 207.

Sabbatyon river, 131.

Saffi port, 285, 292, 314.

Sahara scheme, 317.

Sahel or plain, 242.

Salamis, H.M.S., 340.

Salisbury, Lord, 322; his estimation of Sir J. D. Hay, 352.

Salli, 100; Governor of, 102.

San Stefano village, 64.

Sawle, Captain, 296, 298.

Scott, Sir Walter, 3.

‘Scraps from my Note-Book,’ 367, 396.

Sebastian, King of Portugal, 241.

Sebu river, 238.

Senya el Hashti, or Spring of Hashti, 223.

Serruya, Mr. J., 92.

Seville, 11, 225.

Sharf village, 193.

Sharf el Akab, 371.

Shashon, Sheikh, 243.

Shawía district, 104, 170.

Shebá, 368.

Shebenía, 378.

Shedma district, 122.

Shella, 99.

Sherarda, Governor of, 214.

Sheridan, 4.

Shirreff, Miss, her recollection of Sir J. D. Hay’s early home, 8.

Shloh tribe, 291; the women, 295, 299; hospitality, 295, 298.

Sicsu, Mr. David, the Interpreter, 88, 109, 131, 216.

Sid Abd-el-Malek, 78.

Sid Alarbi Mokta, 113.

Sid Bel-Abbas, tomb of, 110.

Sid Ben Yahia, 88.

Sid Buselham, 136.

Sid Buselham Ben Ali, 68.

Sid Dris Ben Yamáni, 275.

Sid Mogdul, 123.

Sid Mohammed, Sultan of Morocco, 79, 216; reception of Sir J. D. Hay,
216, 231, 237, 270; final interview, 276-282; his entry into Rabát,
230; method of quelling a rebellion, 233; death, 307.

Sid Mohammed Bargash, 321.

— — Ben Dris, 72; manner of his death, 72.

— — Khatíb, 180, 181.

Sid Musa, the Hajib, 272, 289.

Simpson, Dr., 90, 101, 103.

Slavery in Morocco, 357.

Smith, General, 30.

‘Snabi,’ 376.

Spain, question regarding Ceuta, 68; declares war with Morocco, 205;
peace concluded in 1860, 213; claims indemnity, 214.

Spanish chapel, protection of, 208-211; ‘three-decker,’ model of a,
192.

Spartel, Cape, 192, 390.

St. Leger, 89, 112.

Stockholm, 66.

Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, 62.

Stunmer, Baron, 36.

Suanni, 78, 148.

Suánnia, 105.

Suiera, 123.

Sus, 122, 291.

‘Sweet Waters,’ 39.

Symes, 2.

Tafilelt, 128.

‘Taherdats’ river, 368.

Taheret, 129.

Tait, Archbishop, 3.

Takulebat, 129.

Tama, history of the son of, 82.

Tamista plain, 242.

Tangier, 7; condition of, 68: arsenal, 192; bridge, 193; quarantine
regulations, 325.

Tápia, 99 _note_.

Taza, 289.

Telin, 128.

Tensift river, 106, 269, 292.

Tetuan, 144, 180.

Thackeray, 4.

Thala, 128.

Thomson, Captain J., 5; his ‘Etymons of the English Language,’ 5.

_Times_, leader in the, 346; extract from, 351.

Tissot, M., 288; letters to Sir J. D. Hay, 336.

Torras, 355, 360.

Torribat, 129.

Trafalgar, battle of, 192.

Tres Forcas, Cape, 144.

Tsemsalla village, 243.

Turkey, the Sultan of, receives Lord Ponsonby and suite, 31;
interview with Lady Londonderry, 37.

Uhara, 86.

Ujda, 69.

Uríka, 289, 293.

Urquhart, Mr., 99.

Vaden, 127, 128.

Vakka, 128.

Valenciennes, 1.

Veneno, 13; kills José Maria, 15.

Vesuvius, H.M.S., 180.

Villiers, 360.

Vismes et de Ponthieu, Prince de, 5.

Wad el Halk river, 192.

Wad Nefis, 67.

Wadan, 127.

Wadnun, 317.

Wales, Prince of, 318; his visit to Tangier, 203.

‘Washington, Mount,’ 207.

Wazan, Sheríf of, 345.

Weber, 356.

Wedderburn Castle, death of Sir J. D. Hay at, 397.

‘Western Barbary,’ 17, 86 _note_, 177.

Winton, Major de, 296.

Yaden, 127.

Zacchian, 129.

Zarhon district, 160.

Zarhoni, Ben Taieb and Ben Nasr, dialogue between, 81.

Zebdi, Governor, 93.

Zerhóna, the, 214.

Zinat Kar Mountain, 292, 296.

Zinats village, 196, 228.

Zouche, Lord, 49; his defence of Sir J. D. Hay, 351.

THE END.

OXFORD: HORACE HART
PRINTER TO THE UNIVERSITY

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: Henry Cockburn, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and a leading member of the literary and political society in Edinburgh of that day.]

[Footnote 2: Mrs. Grey.]

[Footnote 3: Mrs. Norderling.]

[Footnote 4: It was thought improper to speak about any woman to the Sultan.]

[Footnote 5: Sultan Mulai Abderahman was renowned for his extraordinary strength.]

[Footnote 6: _Life of Stratford Canning_, by Stanley Lane-Poole, vol. ii. p. 116.]

[Footnote 7: His uniform.]

[Footnote 8: A species of shad.]

[Footnote 9: See description of Shemis in Hay’s _Western Barbary_. According to Tissot, in his _Itinéraire de Tanger à Rabat_, 1876, scarcely a trace of these ruins remains.]

[Footnote 10: According to Mr. J. Ball the ‘Elaeoselinum (Laserpitium) humile.’]

[Footnote 11: Tápia is a kind of cement formed of lime, mixed with small stones, beaten down in blocks by means of large wooden cases. The Moorish castle at Gibraltar is built with tápia, and still looks as solid as if new.—J. H. D. H.]

[Footnote 12: The Sultan Assuad referred to was the seventh of his dynasty. He was buried at Shella, where his tomb bears an inscription, of which the following translation has been kindly supplied by J. Frost, Esq., British Vice-Consul at Rabát:—‘This is the tomb of our Master the Sultan, the Khalifah, the Imam, the Commander of the Muslims and Defender of the Faith, the Champion in the path of the Lord of the worlds, Abulhasan, son of our Master the Sultan, the Khalifah, the Imam, &c., &c. Abu Said, son of our Master the Sultan, the Khalifah, the Imam, &c., &c., Abu Yusuf Ya’kub, son of ’Abd al-Hakk, may God sanctify his spirit and illumine his sepulchre. He died (may God be pleased with him and make him contented) in the mountain of Hintatah in the night of (i.e. preceding) Tuesday, the 27th of the blessed month of Rabi ’al-Awwal, in the year 752, and was buried in the Kiblah of the Great Mosque of Al-Mansor, in Marakesh (may God fill it with His praise). He was afterwards transferred to this blessed and sainted tomb in Shella. May God receive him into His mercy and make him dwell in His paradise. God bless our Prophet Mahammad and his descendants.’]

[Footnote 13: Zizyphus lotus.]

[Footnote 14: Elaeodendron argan.]

[Footnote 15: 2 Kings xviii. 9.]

[Footnote 16: Dra.]

[Footnote 17: Akka.]

[Footnote 18: ? Flirgh.]

[Footnote 19: An orange dye.]

[Footnote 20: The White Fast.]

[Footnote 21: Tiseret.]

[Footnote 22: The French Representative.]

[Footnote 23: In consequence of the immunity he had claimed under protection of the horse.]

[Footnote 24: The population of Morocco have never accepted, like other Mohammedans, the Sultan of Turkey—who is not a descendant of the Prophet—as ‘Kaliph Allah.’]

[Footnote 25: No attempt was made to land troops, neither was a gun fired.]

[Footnote 26: Afterwards General Buceta, a very distinguished officer.]

[Footnote 27: Written in 1887.]

[Footnote 28: ‘Cedrus atlantica.’]

[Footnote 29: Term generally applied to Europeans.]

[Footnote 30: Term used for horses of great speed, fed on dates.]

[Footnote 31: The torture of the wooden jelab is only resorted to in extreme cases to extort a confession about wealth supposed to be hidden. The instrument of torture is made of wood, and resembles the outer hooded garment of a Franciscan friar. It is placed upright, and the victim is squeezed into it in a standing position; points of iron project in various parts preventing the inmate from reclining or resting any part of his body without great suffering. There he is left upon bread and water, to pass days and nights, until he divulges where his wealth is hidden.]

[Footnote 32: Mohammedans believe that dates of all deaths are written in a book by Allah.]

[Footnote 33: Fatmeh is dead. He was a spendthrift, and the bags of gold were soon squandered in dissipation.]

[Footnote 34: There are no remains of houses or other buildings within the solid walls which were erected on the north and west side of this small arsenal. There are two wide gates adjoining each other through which the galleys were hauled up and placed in safety. The gateways are of beautiful solid brick masonry; the north wall is of stone; on the south-eastern side high ground rises from this enclosure. On the top of the hill there are the remains of a rude ‘Campus Aestivus.’ About a mile up the river are the ruins of a Roman bridge leading to Tangier, the Tingis of the Romans; the chief arch of this interesting monument fell in 1880. The date of the arsenal and bridge is, I believe, the year 1 A.D.]

[Footnote 35: About twenty miles from Trafalgar.]

[Footnote 36: House of succour.]

[Footnote 37: Readers may be shocked that such barbarities are practised by the Moors; but they are a thousand years behind the civilised world, and surprise can hardly be felt when we remember that a sentence of mutilation was carried out in England little more than 300 years ago. Camden’s _Annals_ for the year 1581 contain an account of the mutilation of one Stubbs, for publishing an attack upon Queen Elizabeth’s proposed marriage with the Duke of Alençon. The historian was an eyewitness of the scene, which has been utilised by Sir Walter Scott in the _Fortunes of Nigel_, chap. xiii.]

[Footnote 38: A Moorish beehive is made from the bark of the cork-tree. In the summer months, when the sap rises, a vertical incision about four feet long is made through the cork to the inner bark, and the part to be removed, having been cut above and below, is hammered with a heavy mallet. The cork is separated from the stem of the tree, and being elastic, is taken off entire. Two circular pieces of cork are inserted in the orifices at each end and fastened with wooden pegs. The bees close with wax the cracks which may appear. The hive is warm, and keeps out both wet and sun.]

[Footnote 39: Mr. Reade was Consul, Mr. Green Private Secretary. The latter, as Sir William Kirby Green, succeeded Sir John Hay as Minister to the Court of Morocco in 1886.]

[Footnote 40: Jebel Kebír, now known as ‘The Hill.’]

[Footnote 41: These were troops from the seat of war not yet disbanded. The Sultan evidently desired to impress Mr. Hay with the strength of his army.]

[Footnote 42: The duties on the export of wheat and barley were never added to those noted above, in spite of Sir John’s constant and unceasing endeavours.]

[Footnote 43: In allusion to the manner in which, in ancient times, Jews and Christians in Morocco were put to death. The victims were suspended by large iron hooks through the flesh of their backs; one of these hooks was still to be seen on a gate of the city of Marákesh in 1846; or a spit was run through their bodies, and they remained transfixed till death put an end to their tortures.]

[Footnote 44: The late Sultan Sid Mohammed, the descendant of Sultan Mulai Ahmed, was a good mathematician, and also very clever as a mechanist. He mended and cleaned his own watches. When I presented H.M. with a breech-loading gun, and at his request took it and the lock to pieces, I bungled in putting them together. H.M., taking the gun from me, at once re-adjusted it.—J. H. D. H.]

[Footnote 45: On the site now occupied by the chief mosque.]

[Footnote 46: Pauper, or holy man.]

[Footnote 47: A delicate paste, partaking of the nature of Italian paste, but round in form, the best being no larger than dust shot.]

[Footnote 48: Ovis musimon.]

[Footnote 49: Cedrus Atlantica and Callitris quadrivalvis.]

[Footnote 50: Yet, according to Marmol, it may be inferred that by this pass the ‘Almoravides’ entered Western Barbary from Numidia.]

[Footnote 51: On this, as on all his other Missions, the members of Sir John Hay’s family and his ‘private friends’ were his _personal_ guests, the ‘officials’ travelled at the expense of Government.]

[Footnote 52: Sultan Mulai Hassan.]

[Footnote 53: A white but much sunburnt Moorish servant of Sir J. H. D. H.]

[Footnote 54: Though this permission was then granted, the laying of the cable was delayed until 1886-87.]

[Footnote 55: His son, then Consul at Mogador.]

[Footnote 56: The ‘arum arisarum,’ called ‘yerna’ by the Moors, is used by the inhabitants of Western Barbary as an article of food in times of great scarcity, though it is held by them to be poisonous without careful preparation. The tubers when collected are cut up in small pieces, which they wash in many waters and then steam, as they do their ‘siksu,’ after which they pound them into meal, of which they make cakes, mixed if possible with a little ‘dra’ (millet) meal. They also make this arum meal into a kind of porridge. This food appears to contain few nourishing qualities, and those who are reduced to live on it suffer much in health.]

[Footnote 57: _Journal of Society for Psychical Research_, March, 1891, p. 40.]

[Footnote 58: Mashallah.]

[Footnote 59: The loan referred to was that raised in England in 1862 to enable the Sultan to pay the Spanish war indemnity. See chapter xv. p. 218.]

[Footnote 60: Then Spanish Minister in Morocco.]

[Footnote 61: Sheríf of Wazan.]

[Footnote 62: Though Ordega acknowledged that the dead Moor had received two hundred lashes.]

[Footnote 63: Moorish Minister for Foreign Affairs.]

[Footnote 64: German Minister.]

[Footnote 65: ‘Mellah,’ the Jewish quarter in all Moorish towns.]

[Footnote 66: Baba, father.]

[Footnote 67: A large covert a short distance off.]

[Footnote 68: Evil Genius.]

[Footnote 69: Moors have a superstition that in hunting the lion the man who first reports having seen the ‘S’ba’ (lion), and mentions the word, will be the first victim.]

Transcriber's note:

pg x Added comma after: flourished in the environs of Tangier

pg 87 Changed: the Luxis of the ancients to: Lixus

pg 103 Paragraphs starting with "On March 28" and the following
one formatted as being from the Editors' perspective

pg 180 Paragraph starting with "Ten days later" formatted as _not_
belonging to the surrounding quoted correspondence

pg 270 Changed: admit the _cortége_ to: _cortège_

pg 344 Changed: formidable porportions to: proportions

pg 356 Changed: she decares she detests to: declares

Minor changes in punctuation and quotation mark placement have been
done silently.

Other spelling errors or inconsistencies have been left unchanged.