Chapter IV: The Volatile Oils Used in Perfumery (3)

_Vitivert or vetiver oil_ (_oleum iva ranchusa_) from the so-called cuscus, the rhizome of an Indian grass, _Anathereum muricatum_. The oil is obtained by distillation, either from the fresh root in India, or from the imported dried root in Europe. The yield is very small. The oil is thickly-fluid, of a red-brown color, and has an intense, but agreeable odor very much like that of oil of orris root. Like the latter, it possesses the valuable property of diffusing a lasting perfume. Its value can only be judged by the odor, and hence it should only be purchased from a thoroughly reliable firm.

_Wintergreen oil_ (_oleum gaultheriæ_) is obtained by distillation from the wintergreen, _Gaultheria procumbens_, a plant common in North America. It is thickly fluid, yellowish green to gold yellow, of a sweetish, aromatic, pungent taste and penetrating, narcotic odor, which becomes agreeable only by strongly diluting the oil. By rectification the oil becomes entirely colorless. Its specific gravity is 1.170 to 1.190 (according to Gladstone, 1.142). It is sparingly soluble in water, but readily so in alcohol, ether, chloroform, etc. The aqueous or dilute alcoholic solution is colored deep violet by ferric chloride.

Wintergreen oil boils at 392° F.; the boiling point, however, soon rises to 431.6° F., when it remains constant. Between 392° and 428° F. a terpene (C_{10}H_{16}) constituting about 1/10 of the oil distils off; the rest corresponds to the composition C_{8}H_{8}O_{3}; it is methyl salicylate

= C_{6}H_{4} {OH
{CO.OCH_{3}.

Wintergreen oil is also obtained by distillation from _Gaultheria punctata_ and _Gaultheria leucocarpa_. An oil, very closely resembling wintergreen oil, is in this country distilled from the young shoots of the American species of birch, _Betula lenta_, variously called sweet birch, black birch, cherry birch, and mountain mahogany. According to Procter, the oil does not exist in the birch but is formed by the action of the water upon an odorless body, called gaultherin, which is converted into volatile oil by the reaction of another substance analogous to emulsin. Hence the formation of oil is similar to that of oil of bitter almonds. To obtain the oil from _Betula lenta_, the material is chopped up and placed in the still, as much as this will hold, a sufficient quantity of water being then added to fill the still about one-third full. The still is generally permitted to remain in this condition over night, a fire is made in the morning and distillation proceeds nicely. The manufacture of birch oil is carried on at quite a large scale by Mr. A. H. Seidle, of Middleport, Schuylkill County, Pa.

Methyl salicylate may also be artificially prepared by heating a mixture of methyl alcohol, sulphuric acid and salicylic acid whereby at first methyl-sulphuric acid is formed which is then converted into methyl ether and sulphuric acid:--

{OH {OCH_{3}
SO_{2}{ + CH_{3}OH = SO_{2}{ + H_{2}O
{OH {OH

{OCH_{3} {OH
SO_{2}{ + C_{6}H_{4}{ =
{OH {COOH

{OH {OH
C_{6}H_{4}{ + SO_{2}{
{CO.OCH_{3} {OH.

Etherification succeeds without difficulty, it being sufficient to heat the mixture for some time and then pour it into water whereby the ether separates as a heavy layer of oil. After washing with water distil in a direct current of steam. The ether thus obtained is as clear as water and, as regards its other properties, does not differ from the naturally occurring oil. This artificial wintergreen oil is now much used for perfuming purposes.

Wintergreen oil is said to be frequently adulterated with sassafras oil which is also specifically heavier than water. If, according to Hayer, 5 drops of the oil in a test-tube be mixed with 10 drops of crude concentrated nitric acid, a deep blood-red fluid results in one minute if oil of sassafras is present. In the course of another minute, the fluid separates a brown resinous mass. Pure oil, on the other hand, is but little altered.

According to P. MacEwan the adulteration of wintergreen oil with camphor oil is carried on at a large scale. The presence of camphor oil may be recognized by the specific gravity, 0.900, while that of pure wintergreen oil is, on an average, 1.18. A crude test--which is, however, readily executed--is as follows: Stir a few drops of the suspected oil in water. If pure, the oil in a few seconds sinks to the bottom, but if it contains camphor oil several minutes elapse before it deposits, and there is time to observe that the particles of oil assume different forms, but not a globular one.

_Ylang-Ylang oil_ (_oleum unonæ_) is obtained by distilling the flowers of _Unona odoratissima_, indigenous to the Philippine Islands, the Straits of Malacca, and Indian Archipelago. The oil is colorless to yellowish. Its color and specific gravity, however vary very much, according to the season of the year in which it is prepared, the oil distilled in the cold season being more colorless and limpid than that produced in the warm season. The oil has an exquisite odor, partaking of the jasmine and the lilac, and is used in the manufacture of the finest perfumery. Various kinds are found in commerce, that marked "Sartorius" being preferred.

The difference in quality of the many kinds of oil found in commerce is chiefly due to the method of preparation and the selection of the flowers, which possess the finest aroma when freshly gathered. In distilling, the first light volatile portions passing over have an incomparable perfume, while the oil distilling over later on possesses an insipid odor. Hence the manufacturer, who only obtains the first portions, will furnish the finest quality of oil, and it is this method of preparation which has gained the "Sartorius" oil its high reputation. While according to Schimmel & Co.'s report, 220 lbs. of fresh ylang-ylang flowers yield 2.64 lbs. of oil, Sartorius for the preparation of his fine oil distils off only about half the quantity.

_Conanga oil_ is a poorer quality of ylang-ylang oil, obtained from the same plant. Two varieties are distinguished in commerce, viz: the _Javanese_ and _Indian_. The Java oil is the best, and may be used where ordinary qualities of ylang-ylang oil will do. According to Schimmel & Co.'s report the cheaper Indian oil is very resistant and durable in soaps, especially when combined with licari or linaloë oil.