Chapter XIII: Cosmetics

Under this heading will be considered toilet vinegars, washes, perfumed powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well as paints.

The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch of perfumery. The materials used for the purpose should be selected and of good quality even for cheap articles, which are, of course, also represented in the following receipts.

SKIN COSMETICS.--_Toilet vinegars._--Perfumed vinegars, when added to wash water, have a refreshing effect and are also used as fumigating agents by mixing them with water in a dish and placing the latter in the room.

_Vinaigre de Bully._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, tinctures of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax, each 1 lb., olibanum tincture ½ lb., vanilla tincture and best lavender oil 5¼ ozs., bergamot oil and lemon oil each 4¼ ozs., acetic acid 2 lbs.

_Vinaigre de toilette à la rose._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs., _extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3½ ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.

_Vinaigre de toilette à la violette._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures of benzoin and storax each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2½ ozs., liquid orris-root oil[24] 11 drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.

[24] See foot-note, p. 257.

_Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart, musk root tincture 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 1 lb., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., verbena oil and palmarosa oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.

_Vinaigre de toilette orange._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, benzoin tincture 10½ ozs., abelmosk tincture and vitivert tincture each 8 ozs., civet tincture 14 drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.

_Vinaigre de toilette._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, orris-root tincture 1⅗ lbs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam and angelica each 1 lb., French rose-geranium oil 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 4¼ ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil each 3½ ozs., neroli oil 8¼ drachms, best rosemary oil 11 drachms, peppermint oil 5½ drachms, acetic acid 2 lbs.

_Aromatic vinegar._--Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol 1⅛ oz., acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1½ ozs., acetic acid 3½ ozs., oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and wintergreen each 5 drops.

_English aromatic vinegar._--Crystallized acetic acid 20 ozs., camphor 2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of cloves 30 drops, oil of cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and dissolve.

The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The vials are first filled with sulphate of potassa in small crystals, and enough acetic acid is added to thoroughly moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of potassa is said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mixture was formerly obtained by introducing into the vials acetate of potassa and a sufficiency of sulphuric acid. Whether this be true or not, sulphate of potassa constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the liquid in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge.

_Toilet vinegar._--Essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris 4 drachms, essence of vanilla and oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong acetic acid 160 drops, alcohol 6 ozs.

_Washes._--Washes are mostly milky fluids or emulsions, formed by the fine division of resins or balsams in water, benzoin and myrrh being especially employed for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time believed that fumigations with it every evening after washing would prevent wrinkles in the face. The emulsions are used by adding one to two tablespoonfuls to the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much employed as an addition to wash-water.

_Virginal milk_ (_Lait virginal_).--Alcohol of finest quality 2½ quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil each 5½ drachms, benzoin tincture 1 quart.

Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of sugar, add the bergamot oil and rose oil and mix intimately. Now bring the paste-like substance into a glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol and add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the latter with a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm room for 8 days, shaking frequently. Then add the benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally filter through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient of it to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which exerts a refreshing and invigorating effect upon the skin and olfactory nerves.

_Rose milk_ (_Lait de rose_).--Rose water 5 lbs., white beeswax and comminuted Castile soap each 3½ ozs., potash 4½ ozs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1 8 ozs.

Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel, and dissolve in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax, and, when this is dissolved, the potash, stirring constantly, while the substances are dissolving. When solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a cloth (best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it and allow it to cool. When cold add the _Extrait rose_, shake thoroughly and fill it into bottles for sale.

If the _Lait de rose_ is to be rose color, add very carefully a small quantity of corallin tincture and shake vigorously.

Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be employed in the preparation of these emulsions, as otherwise they would soon become rancid.

_Almond milk_ (_Lait d'amandes amères_).--Distilled water 5 lbs., bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., comminuted Castile soap 2½ ozs., potash 3½ ozs., bitter-almond oil 8¼ drachms, dissolved in extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 8 ozs.

Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert them to a paste by pounding in a clean mortar, bring the paste into the distilled water, and extract in a water-bath for about ½ hour. Then strain the liquid through a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dissolved, strain again and proceed as given for rose milk. The bitter-almond oil is dissolved in the extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ and added last of all to the liquid mass.

_Lily milk_ (_Lait de lys_).--Rose water, orange-flower water, and jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax 3½ ozs., Castile soap 2½ ozs., potash and orris-root tincture each 3½ ozs., cumarin tincture 1¾ ozs., dissolved in musk-root tincture 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given for _Lait de Rose_.

In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked that it should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as otherwise all the preparations above given might, in a short time, become rancid.

_Perfumed glycerin with rose odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 10 lbs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 8 ozs.

By adding the _Extrait rose_, the glycerin becomes turbid, but clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing the mixture to stand quietly for several days. Filtering the fluid is not advisable, and besides entirely useless.

_Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 10 lbs., any kind of fruit ether 1¾ ozs. Shake thoroughly. The glycerin, if chemically pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit ether, which, of course, must also be of the best quality.

PERFUMED MEALS AND PASTES.--The perfumed meals are frequently used for washing in place of soap, or they are applied after washing, or shaving, to the skin to prevent the latter from becoming rough or chapped. The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softer.

_Farin de noisette_ (_nut meal_).--Best quality wheat flour 3 lbs., almond meal 1½ lbs., orris-root powder 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs.

Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

_Farin d'amandes amères_ (_almond meal_).--Best quality wheat flour and almond meal each 3 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1 oz.

Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

_Pate d'amandes au miel_ (_honey almond paste_).--Best quality almond meal 2 lbs., honey 4 lbs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 2 lbs., fresh olive oil 4 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1¾ ozs., the yolks of 20 eggs.

Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware dish. Mix the honey and glycerin after slightly warming them. Beat the yolks of the eggs in a small dish with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and of the olive oil to the almond meal, work the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then add the yolks of the eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the bitter-almond oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best to keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed earthenware pot in a cool place for about 14 days before distributing it into boxes, because after the ingredients are mixed together a slight fermentation takes place which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the porcelain boxes.

Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin, upon the hands, face, and neck, for which, in fact, it has proved excellent.

_Poudre de riz à la rose._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 3½ ozs., French rose-geranium oil 14 drachms, clove oil 2¾ drachms.

The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed through a sieve. The perfumes are brought together in a glass and thoroughly shaken. The same directions hold good for all succeeding receipts for _Poudre de riz_. Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the Briancon talc or French chalk being very suitable for the purpose, it yielding a very white and delicate powder. It is prepared as follows: Over 1 part of talc pour 2 parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent shaking, for 14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with distilled water.

If rose-colored _poudre de riz rose_ is demanded, add to the proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of madder, triturate it thoroughly with the powder, perfume, triturate again, and finally pass the whole through a fine sieve.

These rice powders are best kept in well-closed tin canisters.

_Poudre de riz héliotrope._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5 drachms, clove oil 2½ drachms, vanilla tincture 10 drachms, _Extrait héliotrope_ No. 1, 1¾ ozs.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz à la violette._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root oil 2½ drachms, _Extrait Violette_ No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin tincture 5 drachms.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz orange._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms, extract from _Pommade Orange_ 1 oz.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz muguet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., ylang-ylang oil, wintergreen oil, angelica oil, and bitter-almond oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5 drops, storax tincture 14 drachms, _Extrait Muguet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz ixora._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 oz., bergamot oil 2½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 drachm, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1¾ ozs., extract from _Pomm. Cassie_ or _Extrait ixora_ 1¾ ozs.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz bouquet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and Ceylon cinnamon oil each 2¾ drachms, _Extrait ess-bouquet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.

COLD CREAMS AND LIP-SALVES.--The purpose of cold creams and lip-salves is to impart lustre to the skin and protect it from cracking in changes of temperature.

_Cold cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., spermaceti 5¼ ozs., white beeswax 7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose oil 5½ drachms.

Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the spermaceti and wax, then add the almond oil, and when the whole forms a liquid allow the previously warmed rose water to flow in slowly, stirring constantly. Now take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to thicken. Then stir in the perfume and fill the finished cold cream in boxes.

_Vaseline cold cream._--White vaseline 2 lbs., fat-almond oil 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, French rose-geranium oil and Turkish rose oil each 2½ drachms.

Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold cream.

_Glycerin cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., white beeswax and spermaceti each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 1 lb., bergamot oil 1 oz., clove oil, Turkish rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2½ drachms. Proceed as above.

_Crême de concombre._--Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white beeswax 10 drachms, spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly-expressed cucumber juice 7 ozs., volatile cucumber oil 2½ drachms, bergamot oil 1½ drachms.

Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated mass upon a clean white cloth, and gently express the juice so that no mucus passes through the cloth. The cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of the process being the same as with cold cream.

_Glycerin gelée._--Gum-tragacanth 5½ drachms, swelled up in rose water 10½ ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 7 ozs., honey 3½ ozs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1¾ ozs.

Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring the powder into a capacious glass flask, pour the rose water upon it, and, after corking the flask, let it stand for about 3 days, shaking it frequently and vigorously. Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now represents a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed sieve into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey, and _Extrait rose_, mix the whole intimately, and fill the tubes or glasses with the finished preparation. It is an approved remedy for chapped skin.

_Glycerin jelly._--Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 lbs., soap 2½ ozs., orange-peel oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms.

Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil, and finally the perfume.

_Cream of roses._--Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin 1 oz., alcohol ½ oz., water 6½ ozs., boric acid 40 grains, spirits of lavender and bergamot each 1 oz.

_Boroglycerin cream._--Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in 24 parts of glycerin; add to this solution 5 parts of lanolin and 70 parts of petrolatum. This preparation is said to be excellent for chapped hands, lips, etc.

_Récamier cream._--The following formula is said to produce something quite similar to this preparation: zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid drachms, water 5 fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1 fluid drachm.

_Preparations for chapped hands._--I. Quince seed 2 ozs., rose water 16 ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince seeds in the rose water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and benzoin.

II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1 oz. Perfume to suit.

III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin 50. Apply twice daily. The pain soon ceases, the skin softens and the chaps quickly disappear.

IV. Quince seed 1½ drachms, boric acid 4 grains, carbolic acid 10 grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs., cologne 2 ozs., oil of lavender 20 drops, glycerite of starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make 1 pint. Dissolve the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince seed in the solution for three hours and then press through a straining cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid and glycerite of starch and mix thoroughly. Mix the cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add the solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well.

_Wash for the hands.-_-Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5 drachms, rose water 4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands should be washed with soap in soft water, or water to which a little borax has been added, thoroughly dried and then well rubbed with the lotion.

_Nail-powder._--The following preparation serves for the purpose of imparting smoothness and lustre to the finger nails. For use apply some of the powder to a piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until they show lustre.

Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 lbs., carmine 5½ drachms, oils of bergamot and lavender each 2½ drachms. Rub the stannic oxide as fine as possible and mix it in the mortar with the other ingredients.

_Lip-salve_ No. 1.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs., best carmine nacarat 2½ drachms.

Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with the _Pomm. Rose_ in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine are perceptible. By this trituration the salve becomes very soft and delicate, so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small boxes. A pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface of the salve by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol lamp. It may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring matter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for instance, alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily acquires a bluish coloration.

If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the object may be attained by the addition of a few drachms of white beeswax. However, in this case, the pomade must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade and wax melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, fill into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol flame.

_Lip-salve_ No. 2.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 6 or 12, 10½ ozs., _Huile antique rose_ No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white beeswax 5½ drachms, carmine nacarat 2¾ drachms.

Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then add, first, the oil, combine it with the wax, then add the pomade and finally the carmine. When all this is intimately mixed, stir it until cold. The further process is the same as given for No. 1.

PAINTS.--The object of paints is to hide blemishes of the skin and to impart to it a different color--as a rule a youthful one--from that bestowed by nature, though under certain conditions, especially in the case of actors, they are also employed for the purpose of changing the expression of the face. A distinction is made between pulverulent, solid, liquid and fat paints.

PULVERULENT PAINTS (POWDERS).--The simplest powder is wheat starch. It forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly harmless. Powdered talc, prepared in the manner previously described (p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 parts of prepared talc, while still moist, with 12 parts of spermaceti, previously rubbed to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate heat, a product known in commerce as "Blanc fard," or "Blanc français," is obtained.

Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is mixed, according to circumstances, with _subnitrate of bismuth_ (_flake-white_), _magnesia_, _chalk_ or _zinc-white_. _White lead_, though frequently used, cannot be recommended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate of bismuth furnishes the best white; it has, however, the disadvantage of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white does not have this defect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color.

Customary mixtures for powders are as follows:--

I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, zinc-white 10.

II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, subnitrate of bismuth 20.

The powders are prepared in three colors: white, rose-color and yellowish. To heighten the white color the powder is mixed with about ⅓ of one per cent. of ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is used, and for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre.

A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared as follows: Mix 100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or more parts of carmine, according to the desired shade of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and in small portions added to the talc. It should not be dissolved, as given in many directions, in ammonia, it losing thereby its fiery red. To obtain an especially delicate powder, the finished article should be carefully bolted through silk.

SOLID PAINTS.--Solid paints may be prepared from the above-mentioned powders by stirring them to a paste with thin gum solution.

_Ordinary red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1 oz., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, best alcohol 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, distilled water as much as required.

_Fine red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1½ ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, rose water as much as required.

_White paint._--Prepared talc 2 lbs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as required.

The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small porcelain boxes, which must, however, be hermetically closed to prevent drying out. To obviate the latter, the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must, however, be carefully done so that the mass does not become liquid; too much glycerin may also make the paint blue.

Regarding the preparation of these paints, the following may be said: The prepared talc is passed through a fine-meshed sieve into a porcelain dish. The carmine is rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and then triturated with water[25] in the same mortar until no more specks of carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to the talc in the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a horn or wooden spoon, and gradually add sufficient rose water to form a dough-like mass. Then add to this mass about 1¾ ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, prepared 3 or 4 days before from 2¼ drachms of pulverized gum-tragacanth and 3½ ozs. of water, work the mass thoroughly through, and add the 5½ drachms of best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with the mass, mix in the 1 oz. of _Extrait rose_ or alcohol, and again work the mass thoroughly through, when the paint is ready to be brought upon porcelain plates.

[25] For fine preparations, rose water is used; for ordinary, distilled water.

The procedure is now as follows: By means of a spoon bring a quantity of the paint, about the size of three hazelnuts upon the centre of a porcelain plate, spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by knocking the latter against the table, and in the same manner cover 6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates. Tie a piece of paper over the dish containing the rest of the paint and set it aside. Place the plates coated with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in both cases the paint would become blue. After 12 to 18 hours the paint upon the plates will be dry, and now comes the most difficult part of the manipulation. With a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card scrape off very carefully and uniformly a small quantity from the surface of the paint, proceeding from the edges towards the centre of the plate. Then, to see whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the edge of the latter quite vigorously against the table. If it adheres firmly, cover the entire plate with a piece of watered silk, catch the ends of the latter beneath the plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of the right, run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moiré of the silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice appearance. Proceed in the same manner with the six or eight test-plates, and if the paint upon them bears the manipulation without dropping off, work up the rest of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does not adhere to the plates, it is proof of it containing not enough gum-tragacanth. In this case add some of the mucilage to the paint in the dish, work it thoroughly through, and proceed in the manner described. Packing, labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not here be described, but as the charm of novelty contributes much to the sale of an article, the manufacturer should make it his business to invent new attractive designs, without too much imitating others.

_Red stick-paint_ (_Stick rouge_).--Prepared talc 1 lb., carmine 5½ drachms, olive oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 8¼ drachms, spirit of sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful, distilled water and gum-tragacanth mucilage as much as required.

The mode of preparation is the same as for solid paints, except that in order to give the rouge more consistency, less water and gum-tragacanth mucilage are to be used.

For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds about 2½ inches long and of the thickness of a finger are used. To facilitate the removal of the rouge sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with a rag moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin stick of wood. After removing the sticks from the mould, they are allowed to dry superficially, and next wrapped first in tissue paper and then in tinfoil, one end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil. They are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes.

_White stick paint_ is prepared in the same manner as stick rouge, with the exception that the carmine is omitted.

_Rouge en feuilles._--Prepared talc 1¾ ozs., carmine 2¾ drachms, olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammoniac about 50 drops, pure alcohol 5¼ ozs., distilled water or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage 1¾ ozs.

The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil, spirits of sal ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage are successively thoroughly triturated with the carmine, next the talc is added, then the water, and finally the alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the pestle. The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush, is applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a circular disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre of the paper. The application of the rouge to the paper has to be repeated three or four times, allowing one layer to dry before applying the next. When the last layer is dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of tissue paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper cutter over the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of tissue is laid between the separate pieces.

LIQUID PAINTS. Liquid paints are chiefly used by actors.

_Liquid rouge._--Rose water 1½ quarts, carmine 1¾ ozs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 lb.

Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a glazed earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously rubbed fine, to the hot rose water, and stir the fluid with a clean wooden spatula until the carmine is completely divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and add a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter imparts to the rouge a brighter red, but not too much of it should be used, as otherwise the rouge acquires a bluish shade, and besides the odor of the spirits of sal ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge is cold add 1 lb. of _Extrait de rose_, mix the whole intimately, and filter through white filtering paper into a clean glass bottle. The rouge has to be protected from sunlight.

_White liquid paint._--Fine zinc-white 3 lbs., rose water or orange water 3½ quarts.

In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5 quarts of distilled water, stirring constantly, until about 3 quarts of the water are evaporated. Then take the vessel from the fire and allow the fluid to stand quietly for ½ hour. Then carefully decant off the supernatant water, pour the 3½ quarts of rose water or orange water upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles.

_Fat paints._--Fat paints of various colors and shades are prepared chiefly for the use of actors. The ground mass consists of _Blanc fard_ or _Blanc français_, or simply of pulverized talc bolted through silk. It is colored, according to the color desired, with carmine, eosin, sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated in the proportion of 1½ ground mass to 1 fatty mass, with the fatty mass consisting of white wax 3 parts and olive oil 7 parts; _or_ paraffin 1½ parts and white vaseline 2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the water-bath, the powder stirred in, and after allowing the mixture to cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured into tin tubes previously slightly warmed.

Besides the above-mentioned _fat paints in sticks_, there are also _fat paints in porcelain boxes_, which are of a somewhat softer consistency. They are prepared in white, rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts for them are as follows:--

_Crême de Lys._--Melt 3½ ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs. of white wax in the water-bath, and after taking the mass from the fire mix it with 3⅕ lbs. of subnitrate of bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with 1⅘ lbs. of almond oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until entirely cold, and perfume.

_Crême de rose._--Spermaceti 3½ ozs., white wax 7 ozs., _Blanc Français_ 3⅕ lbs., carmine 8¼ drachms, almond oil 1-4/5 lbs.

Proceed as directed for _crême de lys_.

INDEX.

Abelmosk or musk-seed tincture, 230, 231

Absorption or enfleurage, process of, 60-65

Acacia oil, 87

Acetic amyl acetate or amyl acetate, 201
ethyl or ethyl acetate, 201-204

Acid number, 81

African and French geranium oils, 112, 113

Alcohol and sulphuric acid test, Hager's, 78
chloroform, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations
with, 72, 73
or spirit of wine, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71

Alcoholic perfumes, 219-255

Allspice, oil of, or pimento oil, 136

Almond bandoline, 305
meal, 329
milk, 327
oil (bitter), 87-93
adulterations of, 90-92
artificial, 89, 90
tincture, 234
paste, honey, 329

Alpine herb oil, 301

Ambergris, 31, 186-188
adulterations of, 188
tincture, 229

Ambrein or ambrin, 187

America and England, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214

American curled mint oil, 132
English, or Canadian castor, 185, 186
musk-rat, musk of the, 181, 182
oil of turpentine, 149
peppermint oil, 132, 133

American soap industry, consumption of citronella oil in the, 108
storax, 172

Amygdalin, 88

Amyl acetate or acetic amyl acetate, 201
valerate or valerianic ether, 214-216

Anethol, 111

Angelica oil, 92, 93
root tincture, 231

Animal kingdom, perfume-substances from the, 178-188

Anise-seed oil, 93, 94

Antiseptic gargle, 275

Apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, 223-225
for determining the percentage of volatile oil in a vegetable
substance, 40, 41
for distilling lemon oil, 118-120
for the absorption process, 62-64
for the distillation of volatile oil, 41-46
for the extraction of volatile oils, 48-57
for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227

Apple essence, 216
ether, 216
pomade, 289

Apricot essence, 216, 217
ether, 216

Aqua mellis, 255

Arabian physicians, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26

Arnica tooth-tincture, 276

Aromatic vinegar, 325
English, 325, 326

Artificial musk, 182, 183
perfume-materials, 189-218

Athens, luxurious use of ointments in, 22

Atomizers, 263

Atomizing, pine odor for, 265

Attar of roses or rose oil, 136-144

Austrian oil of turpentine, 148

Avicenna, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26

Balm oil, 96

Balm-oil tincture, 234

Balsam, Brazilian, 166
Carthagena, 166
fumigating, 265, 266
Peru, 159-166
pine oil, 149, 150
Tolu, 166-168
new variety of, 167, 168
white Indian, 172
Peru, 172
Peruvian, 160, 161

Balsams, 155, 156
and resins, 155-177

Balsamum Peruvianum, 159-166

Bandoline, almond, 305
rose, 305

Bandolines, 304, 305

Barenthin's application of Hübl's iodine method to volatile oils, 80

Bartholow's depilatory, 323

Bartlett, W. W., menthol pungent as prepared by, 260
Preston salt as prepared by, 260

Basil oil, 96
tincture, 234

Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, 96, 97

Bay leaves, oil of, or bayberry oil, 96, 97

Bay rum, 312-314
formulæ for, 313, 314

Beard, Rogers's pomade for producing a, 294

Bear's grease, 285
pomade, 289

Beauty-patch or mouche, 28

Beef-marrow pomade, 294

Benzine, detection of, in volatile oil, 71, 72

Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, 204, 205

Benzoin, 157-159
amygdaloid, 157
determination of cinnamic acid in, 158, 159
flowers, 159
in tears, 157
lump, 157
pomade, 290
tincture, 229
treatment of fat oils with, 300, 301
varieties of, 158

Bergamot oil, 97, 98
tincture, 234

Betula lenta, oil from, 152

Beyer frères, apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower
pomades, 223-225
for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227

Birch oil, 152

Bismuth hair dye, 320
nitrate of, 335, 336

Bisulphide of carbon, 48

Black hair dyes, 321
tooth-powder, 280
wax pomade, 299

Blanc fard or blanc français, 335

Blondel, Dr., memoir on the star anise tree, by, 95

Blonde wax pomade, 299

Boettger's depilatory, 323

Boroglycerin cream, 333

Bouchardat and Lafont, conversion of oil of turpentine into lemon
oil by, 189, 190

Bouquet vaseline pomade, 296

Bouquets, 219, 240-245

Brazilian balsam, 166

Brilliantine, 305-308
formulas for, 307, 308

Brown hair dye, 321
wax pomade, 299, 300

Bulgaria, rose oil industry in, 137, 138

Burdock-root hair oil, 302

Butyric acid, preparation of, 205-207
ether, formation of, 207, 208
or ethyl butyrate, 205-210

Cajeput oil, 98, 99

Camomile oil, 99, 100

Camphor tooth-powder, 280

Canadian, English, or American castor, 185, 186

Canango oil, 154
tincture, 234

Caraway oil, 100, 101

Carbon, bisulphide of, 48

Carbonic acid, apparatus for developing a current of, 50-52

Carob or St. John's bread, 209

Carthagena balsam, 166

Carvene, 100

Carvol, 35, 100

Cassia oil, 103, 104
tincture, 235
value of, 104

Cassie, oil of, 87

Castor, 31
adulterations of, 186

Castoreum or castor, 185, 186

Castor oil, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68
pomade, 293
or castoreum, 185, 186
tincture, 229

Cedar oil, 101
tincture, 235

Ceylon cinnamon oil, 102, 103

Chalk, 336

Chamomile oil, 99, 100

Chapped hands, preparations for, 333, 334

Chassis, 61

Cherry essence, 217
ether, 216
laurel oil, 101, 102
tooth-paste, 278
non-fermenting, 278

Chloroform, alcohol, and benzine, quantitative determination of
adulterations with, 72, 73
detection of, in volatile oil, 71

Cineol, 123

Cinnamaldehyde, 103
quantitative determination of, 104-106

Cinnamic acid, determination of, in benzoin, 158, 159

Cinnamon leaves, oil of, and cinnamon-root oil, 104
oil tincture, 235
oils, 102-106

Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves, 104

Citrene, 35, 121

Citronella oil, 107, 108
tincture, 235

Citronellol, 107

Citron oil, 106, 107

Civet, 31, 184, 185
tincture, 228

Clove-oil tincture, 235

Cloves, oil of, 108-110

Cold cream, 331
creams and lip-salves, 331-335

Cologne water, 249-254
durability of volatile oils used for, 250, 251
preparation of, 249, 250
receipts for, 252-254

Coloring substances for dentifrices and mouth-waters, 272
for pomades, 286

Compound odors, 240-245

Copper hair dye, 322
nitroprusside of, test, 75-78
salts for dyeing the hair, 315, 316

Cortex thymiamatis, 168

Cosmetics, 324-342
and perfumeries in the Middle Ages, 26, 27
and perfumes in Italy, 26, 27
receipts for, in the writings of Arabian physicians, 26

Cream, boroglycerin, 333
cold, 331
glycerin, 332
of roses, 333
Récamier, 333
vaseline cold, 331

Crême de concombre, 332
de lys, 342
de rose, 342

Cumarin, 190-193
manufacture of, 192, 193
tincture, 232

Curled mint oil, 132

Currant essence, 217

Cymene, 121

Dandruff cures, 312
lotion, 312

Densdorf pomade, 290

Dentifrice, singular, used by the Roman ladies, 26

Dentifrices and mouth-waters, coloring substances for, 272
mouth-waters, etc., 272-283

Depilatories, 322, 323
use of in ancient Rome, 25, 26

Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the
reception of perfumes, 24
for preparing rose ointment, 23, 24
"Medica materia," 23

Distillation of expressed oil, 39
of lemon oil, 118
of rose oil, 137, 138
of volatile oils, 39-48
ancient mode of, 24

Distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120

Double hair dyes, 321, 322

Dragendorff's test, 68, 69

Dry perfumes, 256-261

Dutch tonka bean, 191, 192

Dwarf pine oil, 149

East Indian geranium oil, 112

Eau Athénienne, 308

Eau d'Afrique, 322
de Botot (improved), 275
de Cologne, 249-254
durability of volatile oils for, 250, 251
hair tonic, 309
preparation of, 249, 250
receipts for, 252-254
solid perfume, 260
de lavande, 255
double, 255
de Lisbonne, 255
de quinine, 309, 310
(imitation), 310
de vie de lavande double ambrée, 255
dentifrice Botot, 274
Orientale, 274, 275
lustral (hair restorative), 310

Écuelle process for obtaining lemon oil, 117, 118

Egg oil, virtues of, 314

Egypt, ancient, paints used in, 18, 19

Egyptians, use of perfume-substances by the, for embalming the dead, 18

Elæoptene, 33

Emperor pomade, 292

Enfleurage or absorption, process of, 60-65

England and America, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214
use of perfumery in, 30

English aromatic vinegar, 325, 326
Canadian, or American castor, 185, 186
peppermint oil, 132, 133
tonka bean, 192

Esprit de menthe, 276

Ess-bouquet sachet powder, 259
solid perfume, 260

Essence à l'écuelle, or au zeste, 117
apple, 216
apricot, 216, 217
cherry, 217
currant, 217
de jasmin, 114
de lavande Montblanc, 115
de mirbane, 199
grape, 217
lemon, 217
melon, 217
of Portugal, 125
of the odor of Linden blossoms, 238
orange, 217
peach, 217
pear, 217
pine-apple, 217
plum, 217
raspberry, 218
strawberry, 218

Essences and vinegars, fumigating, 264-266
pastilles, powders, etc., for fumigating, 262-271

Essential or volatile oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31

Ester or ether number, 82

Ether, apple, 216
apricot, 216
cherry, 216
or ester number, 82
pear, 216
pine-apple, 216
strawberry, 216

Ethers, fruit, 200-218

Ethyl acetate, or acetic ethyl, 201-204
benzoate, or benzoic ether, 204, 205
butyrate, or butyric ether, 205-210
formate, or formic ethyl ether, 210, 211
nitrite, or nitrous ether, 211-214

Eucalyptene, 111

Eucalyptol, 111

Eucalyptus oil, 110, 111
tincture, 235

Eugenol, 103, 109

Expression of volatile oils, 36-39

Extract, concentrated flower, 245
patchouli, 233
spinach, 239

Extraction of volatile oils, 48-58
or maceration of flowers, 286, 287

Extracts, alcoholic, from flower pomades, apparatus for, 223-225
and tinctures, 225-237

Extrait acacia, 237
bouquet Eugenie, 241
Prince Albert, 243
Victoria, 242, 248
cassie, 237
chypre, 243, 244, 247
de violette de Parme, 239, 240
edelweiss, 240
ess-bouquet, 240, 241, 247
excelsior, 241
fleurs de Mai, 238
Frangipani, 241, 249
héliotrope, 237
ixora, 239, 248, 249
jacinthe, 237, 238
jasmin, 238
jockey club, 241, 242
jonquille, 238
kiss-me-quick, 243
lily of the valley, 238
magnolia, 238
maréchal, 244
May flowers, 238
millefleurs, 242
mogadore, 243
mousseline, 244
muguet, 238, 248
musk, 243
new-mown hay, 243, 247

Extract opopanax, 242
orange, 239
patchouli, 242
réséda, 240, 246
rose, 246
v. d. centifolie, 239
spring-flower, 241, 248
tubereuse, 240
violette, 239, 246
white rose, 239
ylang-ylang, 240, 246, 247

Extraits aux fleurs, 219, 237-240
d'odeurs, 219
triple concentrés, 244, 245

Face, painting the, practised by the Hebrew women, 19

Family pomade, 290, 291
vaseline pomade, 296

Farine d'amandes amères, 329
de noisette, 328

Fat mixtures for hair pomades, 288, 289
paints, 341, 342

Fats, animal, preparation of, for the reception of perfumes, 24
for pomades and hair oils, 284
protection of, against rancidity, 285
purification of, 285, 286

Federer's, C. F., test for peppermint oil, 135

Fennel oil, 111, 112

Filter, illustrated and described, 38, 39

Filtration of expressed oils, 37-39

Flake-white, 336

Florentine flasks, 46, 47

Florida water, 308, 309

Flower brilliantine, 306, 307
extract, concentrated, 245
fumigating essence, héliotrope, 264
hair oil, 301
pomades, 286, 287
extraction of, 221-225

Flowers for the production of volatile oils, localities best suited
for the cultivation of, 32, 33
maceration or extraction of, 286, 287

Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate, 210, 211

France, cultivation of the bitter orange in, 126
extravagant use of rouge in, 28, 29
golden age for toilet articles in, 27-29
introduction of the arts of the toilet into, 27
old process of maceration in, 59

Frangipani sachet powder, 258

Frankincense, in ancient times, 19-21
or olibanum, 176, 177

French and African geranium oils, 112, 113
oil of turpentine, 148
patchouli oil, 131
perfumers, ancient, privileges of, 29, 30
pomades (flower pomades),
fine, 286, 287

Fruit ethers, 200-218

Fuchsine, detection of alcohol by, 69

Fumigating agents, dry, objections to, 263, 264
balsam, 265, 266
essences and vinegars, 264-266
pastilles, powders, etc., 262-271
lacquer, 270, 271
mode of, 262, 263
object of, 262
paper, 268
pastilles, 268-270
ordinary black, 269
red, 269
powder, ordinary, 266, 267
violet, 267
powders, 266-268
prejudice against, 262
vinegar, 266
water, 266

Funnel, separatory, 47

Geraniol, 112

Geranium oil, East Indian, 112

Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112
tincture, 235
oils, French and African, 112, 113

German curled-mint oil, 132

German oil of turpentine, 148
peppermint oil, 132, 133

Germany, manufacture of rose oil in, from indigenous roses, 136

Glycerin cream, 332
for dentifrices, 273, 274
gelée, 332
hair tonic, 310
jelly, 332, 333
perfumed with fruit odor, 328
with rose odor, 328

Grape essence, 217

Greeks, practice of anointing the body by the, 21

Green camomile oil, 99

Guaiacum reaction, Hager's, 78-80

Gummi myrrha, 172-176
resina myrrha, 172-176

Gum-resins, 155, 156

Guy de Chanlios, receipts for cosmetics in the works of, 26

Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test, 78

Hager's guaiacum reaction, 78-80
tannin test, 69-71

Hair, copper salts for dyeing the, 315, 316
dye, bismuth, 320
black, 321
brown, 321
copper, 322
potassium permanganate, 320
requirements of a good, 314
tannin, 321, 322
Turkish, 316
walnut, 320
dyes, 314-322
double, 321, 322
silver, 321
single, 319, 320
use of, in ancient Rome, 25
green walnut shells for dyeing the, 318
henna for dyeing the, 317, 318
iron salts for dyeing the, 316
lead salts for dyeing the, 315
nitrate of silver for dyeing the, 315
oil, alpine herb, 301
burdock root, 302

Hair oil, cheap, 303, 304
fine, 302, 303
flower, 301
jasmine, 303
macassar, 302
mignonette, 302
neroli, 302
Peru, 302
Peruvian bark, 301, 302
philocome, 303
Portugal, 303
rose, 304
sultana, 304
tonka, 304
vanilla, 303
vaseline, 303
Victoria, 304
violet, 304
ylang-ylang, 303
oils, 300-304
and pomades, fats for, 284
peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the, 318
pomade, fine, 291
for promoting the growth of the, 291
pomades, 285-300
according to the German method, 288-295
coloring substances for, 286
fine French, 286, 287
foundations for, 288, 289
hair oils, and hair tonics, hair dyes and depilatories, 284-323
potassium permanganate for dyeing the, 316
pyrogallic acid for dyeing the, 316
stain, pyrogallic, 320
tonics, 308-314

Hands, chapped, preparations for, 333, 334
wash for the, 334

Hebrews, ancient, perfume-substances known to the, 19

Heliotrope pomade, 291, 292
sachet powder, 257

Heliotropin or piperonal, 193-195
tincture, 232

Henna-flower, use of the, for perfuming, 19

Henna for dyeing the hair, 317, 318

Herb pomade, 292

Herodotus on the mode of gaining olibanum, 19, 20

Heyl's distilling apparatus, 57, 58
extracting apparatus, 54-57

Historical notice of perfumery, 17-30

Hitchin and Mitchan lavender oil, 115

Honey almond paste, 329
water, 310

Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78

Horse fat, 284, 285

Hübl's iodine method, 80, 81

Hufeland's, Dr., tooth-powder, 280
tooth-soap, 282, 283

Huile antique à la rose, 301
au jasmin, 301

Huiles antiques, 301

Hydrogen, peroxide of, for bleaching the hair, 318

Ice pomade, 290

Indian balsam, white, 172

Infusion or maceration, process of, 58-60

Iodine method, Hübl's, 80, 81
test with, 74, 75

Iron salts for dyeing the hair, 316

Italy, perfumes and cosmetics in, 26, 27

Japanese peppermint oil, 132, 133

Jasmin, essence de, 114

Jasmine hair oil, 303
oil or oil of jessamine, 113, 114
pomade, 292

Jessamine, oil of, or jasmine oil, 113, 114

Jockey club sachet, 257

Juniper-berry tincture, 233

Juniper odor, 265
oil, 114

Kabardin musk, 179, 180

Kahol, 317

Karsi, 319

Kienoel, 149

Kohol, 319

Kopher, 19

Kremel's saponification test, 81, 82

Krinochrom, 322

Krummholz oil, 149

Kypros, 19

Lacquer, fumigating, 270, 271

Lait, d'amandes amères, 327

Lait de lys, 328
de rose, 326, 327
virginal, 326

Lanolin pomade, 292, 293

Latschenoel, 149

Lavande Montblanc, essence de, 115

Lavender odor solid perfume, 260
oil, 115, 116
adulterations of, 116
tincture, 235

Lead salts for dyeing the hair, 315
white, 336

Leather, perfumed, 30

Lebonah, 19-21

Lederin, 286

Lemon essence, 217
grass-oil tincture, 235
oil, 116-121
conversion of oil of turpentine into, 189, 190
tincture, 235

Licari oil, linaloë oil, 122
tincture, 235

Lilac oil, 121

Lily milk, 328
of the valley sachet powder, 258
vaseline pomade, 296

Limes, oil of, 121, 122

Linaloë oil, licari oil, 122

Lip-salve, 334, 335

Lip-salves and cold creams, 331-335

Liquid ambar, 172
paints, 340-342
rouge, 340, 341
storax, 168-171

Locock's lotion for the hair, 311

Lotion, dandruff, 312
Locock's, for the hair, 311
shampoo, 311

Lubah, 19-21

Lunar caustic for dyeing the hair, 315

Macassar hair oil, 302
pomade, 292

Mace oil, 124

Maceration or extraction of flowers, 286, 287
or infusion, process of, 58-60

Magnesia, 336

Mandarin oil, 125, 126

Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," 27

Marjoram oils, 122, 123

Maumené's test, 82, 83

Meal, almond, 329
nut, 328

Meals and pastes, perfumed, 328-331

Melanogène, 322

Melon essence, 217

Menthol, 133
pungent, 260

Messina, yield of lemon oil in, 120

Methyl salicylate, 151
artificial production of, 152, 153

Mierzinski's formulæ for bay rum, 313, 314

Mignonette hair oil, 302
oil, 123
pomade, 293
vaseline pomade, 296

Milk, almond, 327
lily, 328
rose, 326, 327
virginal, 326

Millefleurs fumigating pastilles, 270

Mint, curled, oil of, 132

Mirbane, oil of, 199

Mitchan and Hitchin lavender oil, 115

Monfalcone's, D., distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120

Moschus ex vesicis, 180

Moses, the holy oil prescribed by, 21

Mouche or beauty patch, 28

Mouth- and tooth-waters, 274-277
waters and dentifrices, coloring substances for, 272
dentifrices, etc., 272-283

Musk, 31, 178-184
adulterations of, 183, 184
artificial, 182, 183
fumigating pastilles, 269, 270

Musk-rat, American, musk of the, 181, 182
root or sumbul-root tincture, 231
sachet powder, 259
sac, how to open a, 180
sacs, illustrated and described, 178, 179
seed or abelmosk tincture, 230, 231
substitutes for, 181, 182
tincture, 228

Myristicin, 124

Myron, 21

Myrrh, 172-176
adulterations of, 175, 176
oil, 123, 124
tincture, 235
tincture, 230
tooth-tincture, 276

Myrrha electa, 173
in sortis, 173
vulgaris, 173

Myrrhin, 174

Myrrhol, 174

Myrtol, 123, 124

Nail-powder, 334

Neroli hair oil, 302

Neroli oil, adulterations of, 127, 128
or orange-flower oil, 126-129
tincture, 235
petale, 127
pomade, 293
vaseline pomade, 296

New-mown hay fumigating powder, 267, 268
sachet powder, 259

Nitrate of bismuth, 335, 336
of silver for dyeing the hair, 315

Nitrobenzol, 198-200
adulterations of, 199

Nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78

Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, 211-214

Nut meal, 328

Nutmeg oils, 124, 125

Odontine, 275
or tooth-paste, 277, 278
paste, 278

Odor and taste, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67

Odors, compound, 240-245

Oil, castor, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68
fat, adulteration with, of volatile oil, 67, 68
the holy, prescribed by Moses, 21
volatile, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a
vegetable substance, 40, 41
for the distillation of, 41-46
Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86
separation of the, and water, 46, 47
testing the odor of, 66
the taste of, 67

Oils, fat, treatment of, with benzoin, 300, 301
oxygenated, behavior of, towards nitroprusside of copper, 76-78
perfuming of, 61, 62
volatile, 33-65
ancient mode of distilling, 24
apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57
characteristics of, 33, 34
concentrated, 35
detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83
distillation of, 39-48
division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80
expression of, 36-39
extraction of, 48-58
extra strong, 35
for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251
localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the
production of, 32, 33
modes of obtaining, 36-65
or essential, occurrence of, in plants, 31
patented, 35
principal divisions of, 34
solubility of, 33
storage of, 65
testing of, 66-86
the, used in perfumery, 87-154

Ointment makers, ancient, condition of, 24, 25
rose, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24

Ointments, directions for preparing, in ancient works, 23, 24
foreign, edict against, in Rome, 22
for the different parts of the body used by the Athenians, 22

Oleum abietes, 149
canadensis, 149, 150
amygdalæ amaræ, 87-93
anisi, 93, 94
anthemidis, 99, 100
anthos, 144, 145
cajeputi, 98, 99
carui, 100, 101
caryophylli, 108-110
cassiæ, 103, 104
cedri, 101
cinnamoni ceylonici, 102, 103
citri, 106, 107
eucalypti, 110, 111
australe, 110
florum aurantii, 126-129
fœniculi, 111, 112
gaultheriæ, 151-153
geranii, 112, 113
iridis, 129, 130
iva ranchusa, 150, 151
juniperi, 114
laurocerasi, 101, 102
lavandulæ, 115, 116
ligni rhodii, 145
sandali, 145
sassafras, 145-147
limettæ, 121, 122
limonis, 116-121
macidis, 124
menthæ crispæ, 132
piperitæ, 132-135
pulegii, 135, 136
myrthæ, 123, 134
naphæ, 126-129
neroli, 126-129
nucistæ æthereum, 124
petit grain, 129
pimenta, 136
pini, 149
pumilionis, 149
résédæ, 123
rosemarini, 144, 145
templinum, 149
unonæ, 153, 154

Olibanum in ancient times, 19-21
or frankincense, 176, 177
tincture, 230

Opiat liquide pour les dents, 280, 281

Opopanax, 176
oil, 125
tincture, 235
tincture, 230

Orange, bitter, localities for the cultivation of the, 126
essence, 217
flower oil, or neroli oil, 126-129
water, 128
fumigating powder, 267
peel oil, 125
sachet powder, 259

Oriental flower fumigating essence, 265
pomade, 293

Orris-root oil, 129, 130
liquid, 257
tincture, 235
tincture, 231

Orris stearoptene, 129

Paint, fine red, 337
ordinary red, 336, 337
red stick, 339
white, 337
liquid, 341
stick, 340

Paints, 335-342
fat, 341, 342
liquid, 340-342
preparation of, 337-339
pulverulent, 335, 336
solid, 336-340
use of, by the Roman ladies, 25

Palermo, yield of lemon oil in, 120

Palmarosa oil, geranium oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112

Paper, fumigating, 268

Paraffine, solid perfumes with, 259, 260

Paraguay, manufacture of petit-grain oil in, 129

Paris, annual sale of perfumery in, 29, 30

Paste, honey almond, 329

Pastes and meals, perfumed, 328-331
and powders for the teeth, 277-283

Pastilles, fumigating, 268-270
powders, essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271

Patchouli-camphor, 131

Patchouli extract, 233
leaves, 130, 131
oil, 130-132
tincture, 235
sachet powder, 258

Pate d'amandes au miel, 329

Peach essence, 217
kernels, use of, in the fabrication of bitter-almond oil, 88

Pear essence, 217
ether, 216

Penang patchouli oil, 131

Peppermint oil, adulterants of, 134, 135
oils, 132-136
American, English, and German, mode of distinguishing, 133, 134

Pepper, perfume-substance from, 194

Perfumed meals and pastes, 328-331

Perfume-materials, artificial, 189-218
for the manufacture of perfumery, 31-65
substances, consumption of, by the ancient Romans, 24
consumption of, by the early nations of the Orient, 17
from the animal kingdom, 178-188

Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages, 26, 27

Perfumer, the actual flower garden of the, 32
what the art of the, consists in, 219

Perfumers, French, ancient privileges of, 29, 30

Perfumery, annual sale of, in Paris, 29, 30
historical notice of, 17-30
perfume-substances for themanufacture of, 31-65
the volatile oils used in, 87-154
use of, in England, 30

Perfumes, alcoholic, 219-255
and cosmetics in Italy, 26, 27
dry, 256-261
preparation of animal fats for the reception of, 24
solid, with paraffine, 259, 260

Peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the hair, 318

Peru balsam, 159-166
adulterants of, 162
oil, 161
statistics of, 162
tests for, 162-166
tincture, 229
white, 172
hair oil, 302

Peruvian balsam, white, 160, 161
bark hair oil, 301, 302

Petit-grain oil, 129
tincture, 236

Petroleum-ether, 48
as testing agent for Peru balsam, 163

Philocome hair oil, 303

Pimento oil, or oil of allspice, 136

Pineapple essence, 217
ether, 216

Pine-leaf oil, 149
tincture, 236

Pine odor for atomizing, 265
oil, 149

Piperate, potassium, 194

Piperine, 194

Piperonal, how obtained, 194, 195
or heliotropin, 193-195

Piver's apparatus for maceration, 59, 60
for the absorption process, 63, 64

Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil, 83-86

Plants, families of, richest in volatile oils, 32
occurrence of volatile oils in, 31

Pliny's account of olibanum, 20, 21
"Historia naturalis," 23

Plum essence, 217

Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome, 22, 23

Paraffin ice pomade, 293

Poley oil, 135, 136

Pomade, apple, 289
bear's grease, 289
beef-marrow, 294
benzoin, 290
black wax, 299
blonde wax, 299
bouquet vaseline, 296
brown wax, 299, 300
castor oil, 293
cheap, 293
wax, 290
Densdorf, 290
emperor, 202
extra fine vaseline, 298
family, 290, 291
vaseline, 296
fine, 291, 294
vaseline (yellow), 297
for promoting the growth of the hair, 291
héliotrope, 291, 292
herb, 292
ice, 290
jasmine, 292
lanolin, 292, 293
lily of the valley vaseline, 296
macassar, 292
mignonette, 293
vaseline, 296
neroli, 293
vaseline, 296
oriental, 293
paraffin ice, 293
Portugal, 292
vaseline, 296
princess, 293, 294
quinine, 289, 290
(imitation), 290
resin, 300
Rogers's, for producing a beard, 294
rose, 294
wax, 299
salicylic, 294
stick, manufacture of, 298, 299
strawberry, 291
tonka, 294, 295
vanilla, 295
vaseline (red), 297
(white), 297
foundations for, 296
Victoria, 294
vaseline, 297, 298
violet, 295
Virginia vaseline, 297
walnut, 295

Pomades, 285-300
according to the German method, 288-295
and hair oils, fats for, 284
coloring substances for, 286
designation of the qualities of, 219, 220
foundations for, 288, 289
resin, 298
stick, 298-300
foundations for, 298
vaseline, 295-298
wax, 298

Pommade à l'acacia, 287
à la fleur d'orange, 287
à la rose, 287
à l'héliotrope, 287

Portugal hair oil, 303
oil, 125
tincture, 236
pomade, 292
vaseline pomade, 296

Potassium permanganate for dyeing the hair, 316
hair dye, 320
piperate, 194

Poudre d'Algérine, 281, 282
de corail, 280
de riz à la rose, 329, 330
de riz à la violette, 330
de riz bouquet, 331
de riz héliotrope, 330
de riz ixora, 331
de riz muguet, 330, 331
de riz orange, 330
dentifrice, 279

Powder for coloring intensely red, 336
new-mown hay fumigating, 267, 268
orange fumigating, 267
ordinary fumigating, 266, 267
rose fumigating, 267

Powders, 335, 336
and pastes for the teeth, 277-283
fumigating, 266-268
mixtures for, 336
pastilles, and essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271

Preston salt, 260

Princess pomade, 293, 294

Pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair, 316
hair stain, 320

Quinine pomade, 289, 290
(imitation), 290
tooth-water, 276

Raspberry essence, 218

Rastikopetra, 316

Récamier cream, 333

Red paint, fine, 337
ordinary, 336, 337
stick paint, 339
thyme oil, 147

Reggio, mode of manufacturing bergamot oil in, 118

Réséda sachet powder, 258, 259

Resin pomade, 300
pomades, 298

Resins and balsams, 155-177
definition of, 155
diffusion of, in the vegetable kingdom, 156
elementary constituents of, 155
hard, 155
soft, 155, 156

Rhazes, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26

Rhodium oil, or rosewood oil, 145

Rhusma, 322, 323

Righini's method for testing bergamot oil, 98

Rogers's pomade for producing a beard, 294

Romans, ancient, consumption of perfume-substances by the, 24

Rome, introduction of ointments in, 22
Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in, 22, 23

Rosa alba, 137
damascena, 137

Rose bandoline, 305
flower fumigating essence, 264
fumigating pastilles, 270
powder, 267
hair oil, 304
milk, 326, 327
oil, adulterants of, 142
adulteration of, in Bulgaria 140
determination of spermaceti in, 143, 144
insulation and determination of the stearoptene in, 139, 140
judging the genuineness of, 139
liquid, 139
or attar of roses, 136-144
principal localities of production of, 136
test for, 143
used in Bulgaria, 141
tincture, 236, 237
ointment, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24
pomade, 294
wax pomade, 299

Rosemary oil, 144, 145

Roses, cream of, 333

Rosewood oil, or rhodium oil, 145

Rouge, 336, 337
en feuilles, 340
extravagant use of, in France, 28, 29
liquid, 340, 341
moulding of, into sticks, 339
stick, 339

Russian or Siberian castor, 185, 186
musk, 179, 180

Sachet à la rose, 257
à la violette, 257
aux millefleurs, 258
jockey club, 257
powder, ess-bouquet, 259
Frangipani, 258
héliotrope, 257
lily of the valley, 258
musk, 259
new-mown hay, 259
orange, 259
patchouli, 258
réséda, 258, 259
Victoria, 258
ylang-ylang, 257
powders, 256-259

Safrene, 146

Safrol, 146, 147

St. John's bread or carob, 209

Salicylic pomade, 294

Salts, smelling, 260, 261

Salve, Cyprian, 19

Sandal-wood oil, 145
tincture, 236

Saudarac, 177

Sandaracin, 177

Saponaceous tooth-wash, 283

Saponification number, 81
test, Kremel's, 81, 82

Sassafras oil, 145-147

Sartorius ylang-ylang oil, 154

Schimmel & Co.'s directions for bay rum, 313
directions for the quantitative determination of
cinnamaldehyde, 104-106
improved still, 44-46

Separator-funnel, 47

Shampoo liquid, 311, 312
lotion, 311

Siberian or Russian castor, 185, 186
musk, 179, 180

Silver, nitrate of, for dyeing the hair, 315

Single hair dyes, 319, 320

Siphon still, 41, 42

Skin cosmetics, 324-328

Smelling salts, 260, 261

Soap for dentifrices, 273

Solid paints, 336-340

Solubility of volatile oils, 33

Sozodont, 275

Spanish marjoram oil, 122, 123

Spermaceti, determination of, in rose oil, 143, 144

Spike oil, 115

Spinach extract, 239

Spirit of wine, or alcohol, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71

Sponge-process for obtaining lemon oil, 116, 117

Stahl's tooth-tincture, 276

Star anise oil, 94, 95

Stearoptene, 33
of rose oil, 138

Stick paint, white, 340
pomade, manufacture of, 298, 299
pomader, 298-300
foundations for, 298
rouge, 339

Still, for direct steam, 43, 44
improved, 44-46

Still, ordinary, conversion of, into use with steam, 42, 43
siphon, 41, 42

Stohman's test for oil of cloves, 109

Storax, 168-172
American, 172
in grains, 171
liquid, 168-171
adulterations of, 170, 171
ordinary, 171, 172
tincture, 230

Strawberry essence, 218
ether, 216
pomade, 291

Styracin, 170

Styrax calamitus, 171, 172
vulgaris, 171, 172

Styrol, 169, 170

Sultana hair oil, 304

Sumbul root, or musk-root tincture, 231

Tannin hair dye, 321, 322

Taste and odor, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67

Tea hair tonic, 310, 311

Teinture Chinoise (Kohol), 319
Orientale (Karsi), 319

Templin oil, 149

Terpenes, 35, 36
adulterations of volatile oil with, 73

Terpilene, 189, 190

Testing volatile oils, 66-86

Theophrastus's work "On Perfumes," 23

Thibet or Oriental musk, 178, 179

Thymene, 147

Thyme oil, 147, 148
from the field thyme, 147, 148

Thymol, 147, 273
tooth-paste, 278
tooth-powder, 279
tooth-water, 274

Tincture, ambergris, 229
angelica-root, 231
balm-oil, 234
basil-oil, 234
benzoin, 229
bergamot-oil, 234
bitter almond-oil, 234
canango-oil, 234
cassia-oil, 235
castor, 229
cedar-oil, 235
cinnamon-oil, 235
citronella-oil, 235
civet, 228
clove-oil, 235
cumarin, 232
eucalyptus-oil, 235
geranium-oil, 235
heliotropin, 232
juniper-berry, 233
lavender-oil, 235
lemon-grass oil, 235
lemon-oil, 235
licari-oil, 235
musk, 228
root or sumbul-root, 231
seed or abelmosk, 230, 231
myrrh, 230
oil, 235
neroli-oil, 235
olibanum, 230
opopanax, 230
oil, 235
orris-root, 231
oil, 235
patchouli-oil, 235
Peru-balsam, 229
petit-grain-oil, 236
pine-leaf-oil, 236
Portugal-oil, 236
rose-oil, 236, 237
sandal-wood-oil, 236
storax, 230
tolu-balsam, 229, 230
tonka-bean, 231, 232
vanilla, 232
vanillin, 232
verbena-oil, 236
vitivert, 233
oil, 236
wintergreen-oil, 236
ylang-ylang-oil, 236

Tinctures and extracts, 225-237
apparatus for the preparation of, 226, 227

Toilet articles, golden age for, in France, 27-29
arts of the, in ancient times, 18
introduction of the arts of the, into France, 27
vinegar, 326

Tolu balsam, 166-168
new variety of, 167, 168

Tolu balsam, tincture, 229, 230

Toluene, 166, 167

Tonka beans, 191, 192
bean tincture, 231, 232
hair oil, 304
pomade, 294, 295

Tonkin musk, 178, 179
characteristics of, 180, 181

Tooth-and mouth-waters, 274-277
paste or odontine, 277, 278
pastes and tooth-powders, 277-283
powder, Dr. Hufeland's, 280
powders and tooth-pastes, 277-283
preparation of, 279
soap, 283
Dr. Hufeland's, 282, 283
tincture, Dr. Stahl's, 276
tinctures, use of, 276, 277

Trotula, works of, 26

Turkish geranium oil, palmarosa oil, geranium oil, 112
hair dye, 316

Turpentine, oil of, 148-150
conversion of, into lemon oil, 189, 190

United States, adaptation of some districts of, for the cultivation
of plants, 33

Valerianic ether, or amyl valerate, 214-216
ethyl ether, 216

Vanilla, 195, 196
hair oil, 303
pomade, 295
tincture, 232

Vanillin, 195-198
adulteration of, 198
preparation of, 196, 197
tincture, 232

Vaseline cold cream, 331
hair oil, 303
pomade, extra fine, 298
fine (yellow), 297
(red), 297
(white), 297
pomades, 295-298
foundations for, 296

Venetian oil of turpentine, 148

Verbena oil, 150
tincture, 236

Vetiver oil, or vitivert oil, 150, 151

Victoria hair oil, 304
pomade, 294
sachet powder, 258
vaseline pomade, 297, 298

Vinaigre de Bully, 324
de toilette, 325
de toilette à l'héliotrope, 325
de toilette à la rose, 324
de toilette à la violette, 324
de toilette orange, 325

Vinegar, aromatic, 325, 326
fumigating, 266
toilet, 326

Vinegars and essences, fumigating, 264-266

Violet-flower fumigating essence, 265

Violet fumigating pastilles, 270
powder, 267
hair oil, 304
mouth-water, 275
oil of, 150
pomade, 295
tooth-powder, 279

Virginal milk, 326

Virginia vaseline pomade, 297

Vitivert-oil tincture, 236

Vitivert, or vetiver oil, 150, 151
tincture, 233

Volatile oil, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a
vegetable substance, 40, 41
apparatus for the distillation of, 41-46
Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86
separation of the, and 46, 47
testing the odor of, 66
the taste of, 67
oils, 33-65
ancient method of distilling, 24
apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57
characteristics of, 33, 34
concentrated, 35
detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83
distillation of, 39-48
division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80
expression of, 36-39
extraction of, 48-58
extra strong, 35
for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251
localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the
production of, 32, 33
modes of obtaining, 36-65
patented, 35
principal divisions of, 34
solubility of, 33
storage of, 65
testing of, 66-86
the, used in perfumery, 87-154
or essential oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31

Walnut hair dye, 320
pomade, 295
shells, green, for dyeing the hair, 318

Washes, 326-328

Wash for the hands, 334

Water, fumigating, 266
separation of the, and oil, 46, 47

Wax pomade, cheap, 300
pomades, 298

White lead, 336
liquid paint, 341
paint, 337
rose solid perfume, 259
smelling salts, 260, 261
stick paint, 340
thyme oil, 147
tooth-powder, 280

Williams, F. R., utilization of Maumené's test by, 82, 83

Wintergreen oil, 151-153
adulteration of, 153
tincture, 236

Ylang-ylang hair oil, 303
oil, 153, 154
tincture, 236
sachet powder, 257

Yunnan musk, 178, 179

Zibethum, 184, 185

Zinc white, 336

Transcriber's Notes

Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.

Variable use of accents and ligatures has been standardised to ensure compatibility between text and index.

The reference in the index to oleum uonæ has been corrected to oleum unonæ.

The index lists Pomade - cheap - wax at page 390, which does not exist. This has been changed to 290.>

Footnotes 12 and 13, merely repeat footnote 11, so have been removed and all references changed to footnote 11.

Italics are shown thus _italic_ and subscripts thus {2}.