Chapter I: Part 1

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Novissima et Acuratissima
BARBADOS.
DESCRIPTIO
per
JOHANNEM OGILUIUM.
Cosmographum Regium]

A TRVE & EXACT
HISTORY
Of the Island of

BARBADOS.

Illustrated with a Mapp of the Island, as
also the Principall Trees and Plants there, set forth
in their due Proportions and Shapes, drawne out by
their severall and respective Scales.

Together with the Ingenio that makes the Sugar, with
the Plots of the severall Houses, Roomes, and other places, that
are used in the whole processe of Sugar-making; _viz._ the Grinding-
room, the Boyling-room, the Filling-room, the Curing-house,
Still-house, and Furnaces;
All cut in Copper.

By RICHARD LIGON Gent.

_LONDON_,
Printed for _Humphrey Moseley_, at the _Prince_’s _Armes_
in St. _Paul_’s _Church-yard_: 1657.

_To my most Honoured, and highly esteemed Friend_,

D^r BRIAN DUPPA,

L^d B^p _of SALISBURIE_.

_Honour’d Sir_,

The first and last time you gave me the favour to kisse your hands, since my return from the Southern and Western parts of the World, you were pleased to make some enquiries of me, concerning the Iland of _Barbados_, a place you much desired to be satisfied in: But, by reason my stay was but short, I could give You but a sleight and scant relation, of the many particulars you were desirous to be informed in; so that for the present, I rather poynted at, then gave a home-satisfaction, to what was most fit to be known, of the Beauties and Riches of that place. Whereupon you were pleased to impose on me a task, (very unfit for me to undertake, being one altogether unlettered) to deliver in writing, the sum of all I knew, concerning that Iland. Though I were sufficiently conscious of mine own inabilities; yet, my obedience to your commands, led me on, to give you a private satisfaction, in a thing you so earnestly desired, which was all I aimed at: But, upon perusall of it, you were pleased to give me a far greater encouragement, then I expected, with your allowance for the publishing of it, for the common benefit of those, who intend to spend their times, and venture their fortunes upon such undertakings; so that I wanted but means or friends, for the putting it forth; but, those two being absent, it has layne in the dark this two years. You were then likewise pleased, to cast your eyes upon some pieces of Limning, which I had done since my return, (by my memory only) of the Trees, Plants, and Fruits, which I had seen growing upon that place; things in themselves of infinite beauty, but losing much of their life and lustre, by my ill handling; yet, you were pleased to afford them an approbation, beyond their value, which gave me an ambition, to do somewhat in that kinde, more like a Master; and to that purpose, was designing a piece of Landscape, and one of Story, wherein I meant to expresse the postures of the Negres, in their severall kinds of Sports and Labours; and with it, the beauties of the Vegetables, that do adorn that place, in the highest perfection I could: But presently after, being cast into Prison, I was deprived both of light and lonelinesse, two main helpers in that Art; and so being disabled to discern or judge of Colours, I was compelled to expresse my designes in Black and White: So that now you will finde exposed to your view, a piece of wild _Grotesco_, or loose extravagant _Drolorie_, rather than a Regular piece of Story or Landscape.

Rough drawn, and unproportionably stell’d, though it be, I here present it; which, though it be but as a Drop to the Ocean, or a Mite to the treasury of your Knowledge; yet, in obedience to your commands, which have a powerfull operation on me, I could do no lesse then give you an account of what I had done, how weak and unperfect soever. And so begging pardon for the faults committed, both in the Language, and ill contrivance of my Discourse, I humbly take my leave, and rest.

_Honoured Sir_,

Your most humble Servant:

R. LIGON.

_Upper Bench_ Prison,
_July_ 12th 1653.

The Letter of the Bishop of _Sar._ to me then in Prison, after he had perused my Book.

_SIR_,

_You can best tell, with what pleasure you past over your Voyage to the_ Barbadoes: _But, whatsoever it was, your dangers at Sea, and your long sicknesse on Land, had been enough to sour it, had not the condition of the times made any place more acceptable, than your Native Country. But, the pleasure which you have given me, in reading this Narrative, is without all these mixtures: For, without any hardship at all, I have in a few daies gone the same voyage, view’d the Iland, weigh’d all the Commodities and Incommodities of it; and all this with so much pleasure, that I cannot, without great injustice, forbear telling you, that though I have read formerly many Relations of other parts of the World, I never yet met with so exact a piece, as this of yours. Your diligence hath been great in so short a time, to make these Observations; but, your expressions of them are such, as shew, that no ingenious Art hath scap’t you. You say, that in your younger time, you acquainted your selfe with Musick and Painting; and had you not said so, the reading of this Book would have made me say it for you; for, it is so Musically made up, and all the descriptions so Drawn to the life, that I know no Painting beyond it. And for the question you put to me, whether you should publish it or no, I desire you would make no doubt of it; for first, I know none that hath written of this Argument before; and next, I am perswaded, that having read this Description of yours, none that come after will venture upon it. Only, I have one request to you, that your kindnesse to me, (who without any designe, gave you the occasion of doing it) may not lead you into such an insufferable errour, as to choose me out as a fit person to inscribe it to, who am so much in the shade, that I must not own my selfe. I am willing to believe, that though Honour be at this time at a very low Ebb, and, by the iniquity of the times, is much falne within the Banks; yet, the Channell is not so drie, but you may meet therewith some Noble person, that may with more advantage, take you and your Book into the same Cock-boat with him, and keep you this Winter both from cold and hunger. And therefore, in great earnestnesse I desire you, to look over your Catalogue of Friends; and, though you cannot finde one that loves you better, yet, to make choice of him, that can protect you better. And so with my prayers for you, that your afflictions here may be so managed by you, as to lead you to Joyes hereafter, I rest._

Your most affectionate Friend,

_Br. Sar._

Richmond, Septemb.
_5th. 1653_.

To my much Honoured and Ingenuous Cousin, M^r _Richard Ligon_, upon his Relation of his Voyage to the _Barbadoes_.

_Since you vouchsafe me sight, I needs must falt,
To actuall sin ’gainst your Originall,
Should I not more then tacitely expresse
It’s worth, as well as mine owne thankfulnesse.
Omissive duties, and committed facts
In man, you know, an equall guilt contracts.
And (though your judge should know the severall Arts,
Both what the Colledge and the Court imparts:
And Jurates ought to be like the twelve signes,
Such Asterismes, where Sol himselfe confines)
A common Suffrage nevethelesse may aim,
(Not to give verdict) but the gift proclaim.
That judgment let me enter. They indite,
That here’s vast profit, mixt with high delight;
That what’s suppos’d a Narrative, will be
To him that reads, a Naturall History.
For in that Horison, your pen doth misse,
Nor Heaven, Earth, Sea, nor ought that in them is.
Not a new Star can scape your Observation,
Nor the least Insect passe your Contemplation.
Nor use you shortnesse, nor prolixity;
But first describe, then speak its property.
Me thinks, as_ Pliny, _you are their Relator;
And are as_ Adam _too, their_ Nomenclator.
_For, to your Insects, Birds, and Vegetives,
You give not known, but due Appellatives.
Their rich descriptions, when you paint, I see
Colours so lively, and such Symmetry:
But that I’ve seen the hand, that guides the quill,
A Pencill use, ’twere scarce in Limning skill.
And when you descant richly, thus, I see
Compos’d in severall parts, and all agree,
How Chords and Discords too, you do devise,
From Sympathies, and from Antipathies.
Your Fuges and Poynts into a Canon twine,
All true to th’ Ground, that is your main designe:
And all Concentring to so sweet an Ayre,
Would ravish Philomels, make Swans despair.
Your skill above fam’d_ Orpheus _I advance,
Since thus your Creatures play, his did but Dance_.
_To such as only seek their benefit,
You do infallibly discover it:
You shew therein_, 3000 l. _will clear
No lesse then_ 7000 l. _a year.
And that not in a jugling Chymick sense,
But drawn from reason and experience_.
_The Scite, Clime, Food, the Customs, Laws, and Trade,
To each inquisitor is open laid._
_Your Georgick strain seemes to extract the marrow
Of_ Marcus, Cato, Columel, _and_ Varro;
_As if that there you had the grouth and age
Of a_ Palmeto, _to improve each page:
And with so great an art and industry,
As if you’d studied nought but Husbandry_.
_When of your Vegetives you make relation,
You rather make than speak of a Plantation,
Your leaves affording shape, taste, and delight
To th’ Sense, the fruit gives to the Appetite.
If_ Pythagorean _Doctrine were Divine,
I would be transmigrated to your Pine.
The Cane or Mine, (that makes that Spot of ground
As rich, as any ’twixt the Poles is found)
Is here so full and happily exprest:
You Candy that, which does preserve the rest:
And its_ Ingenio _seemes to be a Lecture
(As ’tis describ’d) o’ th’ Art of Architecture_.
_The Texture of the whole you’ve wove so nice,
Your fine spun thread, warpt, wooft with Artifice.
It seemes a Landscape in rich Tapestry,
Embroidered with Natures Novelty,
Attireing all in such a lovely Dresse,
Rich, Genuine, and full of Courtlinesse:
That as_ Great Brittain _sometimes I have seen,
So you’ve_ Barbadoes _drawn just like a Queen_.
GEORGE WALSHE.

A topographicall Description and
Admeasurement of the YLAND of
BARBADOS in the West INDYAES
with the M^{rs} Names of the Seuerall plantacons]

A TRUE AND EXACT
HISTORY
OF THE ILAND OF
BARBADOES.

Having been Censur’d by some (whose Judgements I cannot controll, and therefore am glad to allow) for my weakenesse and Indiscretion, that having never made proofe of the Sea’s operation, and the severall faces that watry Element puts on, and the changes and chances that happen there, from Smooth to Rough, from Rough to Raging Seas, and High going Billowes, (which are killing to some Constitutions,) should in the last Scene of my life, undertake to run so long a Risco as from _England_ to the _Barbadoes_; And truly I should without their help conclude my selfe guilty of that Censure, had I not the refuge of an old proverb to fly to, which is, (Need makes the old wife trot:) for having lost (by a Barbarous Riot) all that I had gotten by the painfull travells and cares of my youth; by which meanes I was stript and rifled of all I had, left destitute of a subsistance, and brought to such an Exigent, as I must famish or fly; and looking about for friends, who are the best supporters in so staggering a condition, found none, or very few, whom griefs and afflictions had not deprest, or worne out, Banishment absented, or Death devour’d; so that in stead of these neere and Native comforters, I found my selfe a stranger in my owne Country, and therefore resolv’d to lay hold on the first opportunity that might convoy me to any other part of the World, how far distant soever, rather then abide here. I continued not many weekes in this expectation, when a friend, as willing to shift his ground as I, gave me an Overture which I accepted, and so upon the sixteenth day of _June 1647._ we embark’d in the Downes, on the good Ship called the _Achilles_; a vessell of 350 tunnes the Mr. _Thomas Crowder_ of _London_; and no sooner were we all aboard, but we presently weighed Anchor, and put to Sea; in so cold weather as at that time of the yeere, I have not felt the like; and continued so till wee came to _Falmouth Harbour_: where wee put in, and rested for a night, but in our passage thither, were very uncertaine upon what Coast wee were, by reason of the unsteadinesse of the windes, and cloudinesse of the weather; so that I perceived more troubles and doubts in the Seamen in that short passage, than in all the voyage after. But, the weather clearing up, the Master and Mates drew out severall plots and Landscapes: which they had formerly taken upon the Coast of _France_ and England, (which are of great use in the narrow Seas,) by which they were well assured where they were; for there they seldome use _Loggline_, or _Backstaffe_, but attend onely the Tides Compasse, and Card; nor is there any use of other directors in so narrow a roome. We were (as I remember) about 10. dayes sayling to Falmouth, and had with us a small ship of about 180. tunnes, called the Nonesuch; of which Captaine _Middleton_ was owner, a very good seaman, and a Planter in _Barbados_: but himselfe then remaining in London.

The next day we put to Sea, and continued our course to the Southwest, (with somewhat a Scant wind,) partly to avoid the high going _Billowes_ of the _Bay_ of _Biskey_: but chiefely to stand aloofe from _Pirats_ and _Pickaronoes_: which are very frequent upon the _Coasts_ of _Spaine_, and Barbarie; and as we past along, I perceiv’d a difference in the way of our Ships: _for_ in slack windes, our consort the Nonesuch would runne us out of sight in foure or five houres sayle; but in strong and stiffe windes, wee did the like with her. So that I guest the larger the sayles, the swifter the waye; provided, they were alike built in the modell of their keeles, but I leave that to be resolved by the Seamen, or that Admirable Architect of Moving-Horses, Mr. _Pett_.

About the Latitude of 45. degrees, wee met with a Ship comming from _Guinny_, but bound for _London_; the Captains name was _Blague_, a very civill Gentleman who halde us, came aboard us, and invited divers Gentlemen that were there aboard his ship: which was a Friggot of about 400. tunnes, her loading _Gold_ and _Elephants teeth_; the Man was exceeding civill to us, and gave to every Gentleman of our Company, a present of such rarities as he brought from _Guinny_, and _Binny_. We stayed together almost a whole day, the weather being very calme, and almost no wind at all; in the evening, a fresh breese began to blow, which serv’d us both in our severall wayes, and so saluting each other with our ordinance wee took leave.

About this time, our Consort the None-such parted with us, she directly for the Carribby Ilands, we for St. _Jago_, one of the Ilands of _Cape Verd_; where wee were to trade for _Negros_, Horses, and Cattell; which we were to sell at the _Barbados_. So, keeping our course about 80. Leagues from the Coast of _Spaine_ and _Barbarie_, the first land wee discovered, was the Ile of _Porto Santo_; which lyeth in 33. degrees to the _Noreward_; which wee left of our _Larboard_ side: When presently after, we had sight of the _Maderas_, which we sayld close by, and had a full view of the place; so Rocky, and Mountainous, and the ground so miserably burnt with the Sun, as we could perceive no part of it either Hill or Valley, that had the least appearance of green, nor any tree bigger then a small Hathorne and very few of those. Between this and three inconsiderable Ilands called the _Deserts_, which appeared to us like the tops of large buildings; no unevennesse or risings and fallings, but levell as the toppe of a large Church or Barne; but burnt worse then the other, so that instead of the fresh and lively greenes, other Countreys put on at this time of the yeare: these were apparell’d with Russets, or at best _Phyliamorts_. But it fell out that this yeere the summer was there hotter then usually, and the Sea men that were with us, gave us to understand, that they never had seen it so burnt as now, and that the _Leeward_ part of it was, at other times, exceeding fruitfull and pleasant, abounding with all sorts of excellent fruits, Corne, Wine, Oyle, and the best Sugars; with Horses, Cattell, Sheep, Goates, Hogges, Poultrey; of all sorts, and the best sorts of Sea fish. These Ilands lye neere 33. degrees to the _Noreward_.

Having past between these (leaving the _Maderas_ on of our _Starboard_ side) wee found a constant trade-wind to carry us to the _Southward_, When the next Iland that came in our view, was _Bona Vista_; but at such a distance, as we could hardly discerne colours, but the generall Landscape of the hills seemed to us very beautifull, gently rising and falling, without Rockes or high precipices.

This Iland is famous, for excellent Salt, and for Horses, which in one property, excell all that ever I have seene; their hooves being to that degree of hardnesse, and toughnesse, that we ride them at the _Barbados_, downe sharp and steepie Rocks, without shooes; and no Goates goe surer upon the sides of Rockes and Hills then they; and many of them very strong and clean limb’d.

This Iland, wee left ten Leagues, or thereabouts on our Larboard side, and next to it, the Ile of _May_; famous for store of excellent Salt.

The last of those Ilands was _Palma_; a land so high, as after wee first discovered it; which was in the morning; wee thought to have reacht it that night, but found our selves farre short of it, next morning, though wee had a full gaile all that night: so much is the eye deceived in Land which lyes high. This Iland is about 28 degrees to the Noreward, and from it to the Iles of _Cape Verd_ about 13 degrees a long way to bee silent, for there is no land between and therefore I purpose to entertaine you with some Sea delights; for there is no place so void and empty, where some lawfull pleasure is not to bee had, for a man that hath a free heart, and a good Conscience. But these Sea-pleasures are so mixt with Cruelties, as the trouble of the one, abates much the delight of the other, for here wee see the great ones, eate up the little ones, as they doe at Land, and with as little remorse; yet laying that consideration aside the Chase affords some pleasure to the eyes: for some kinds of fishes shew themselves above water, for a long while together. I have seen 20 Porpisces very large of that kinde, Crosse the Prow of our Ship, one behind another in so steady and constant a course, in chase of some other fishes; as I have seen a kennell of large Hounds, in Windsor Forrest, in the chase of a Stag; one following another directly in a track; and the onely difference I finde is, these doe not spend their mouthes, but what they want in that is supplyed by the goodnesse of their noses; for they never are at a fault, but goe constantly on. The Dolphins likewise pursue the flying Fish, forcing them to leave their knowne watry Elements, and flye to an unknowne one, where they meet with as mercilesse enemies; for there are birds that attend the rising of those fishes; and if they bee within distance, seldome fayle to make them their owne. These birds, and no other but of their kinde, love to straggle so far from land; so that it may be doubted, whether the sea may not bee counted their naturall home; for wee see them 500 leagues from any land, at Sun setting; and so it is not possible they should recover land that night; and on the waves they cannot rest without great hazzard. I have seen them sometimes light, and sit upon the waves, but with such Caution: for feare of being taken in by a fish, as her rest is very unsafe; unlesse when the is covered by the nights dark wings. This Bird, is a kinde of sea Hawke, somewhat bigger then a Lanner, and of that colour; but of a far freer wing; and of a longer continuance; and when she is weary, she finds resting places, if the Seas be Calme; for then the Turtles lye and sleep upon the waves, for a long time together; and upon their backs they sit, and sleep securely; and there, mute, prune, and oyl their feathers; rouse, and doe all their Offices of nature, and have roome enough for all, for some of those Turtles are a yeard broad in the back: wee took one with our long Boate, as he lay sleeping on the water, whose body afforded all the Gentlemen, and Officers of the Ship, a very plentifull meal; and was the best meat wee tasted, all the time wee were at Sea. There are of these kinds of Fishes but two sorts, that continue in the mayne; the Loggerhead Turtle, and the Hawkes bill Turtle, of which sorts, the latter is the best, and of that kind ours was that wee took. There is a third kind, called the Green Turtle which are of a lesser Magnitude, but far excelling the other two, in wholesomnesse, and Rarenesse of taste; but of them hereafter for I have no mind to part so leightly, with the forenamed Birds of prey: For having been bred a Faulconer in my youth, I cannot but admire the admirable swiftnesse of wing these birds make. They mount sometimes upon the trayne, to so loftie a pitch: as, if a Faucon were there, Shee might be allowed a double Cancellere in her stooping to her game: they doe it at one entire downe come. Her ordinary flying for her own pleasure, and not for prey is commonly more free then the best Haggard Faulcon, that I have ever seen; but the continuance of it makes it the more admirable, At the times they grow hungry, they attend the _Dolphins_, who are their Spaniels; and where they perceive the water to move, they know they are in Chase, of the flying fish; and being neere them, they rise like Coveys of Partridges by 12 and 16 in a Covey, and flye as far as young Partridges, that are forkers, and in their flight these birds make them their quarry.

These frighted fishes, sometimes in the night have crost our ship, and being stopt by the shroudes, have falne downe; and with their bodies we have baited hookes, and taken their pursuers the Dolphins; which we have found very excellent meat, being drest by a good hand, with Wine, Spice, and sweet herbs, which we never wanted. So here we have excellent hauking, no feare of losing our hauke, by going out at Cheik, or to a village to Poult, and yet eate of the quarrie, and sometimes of the Spaniells, which is an advantage the best faulconers misse at Land. As for the hunting here, we only see the Chase, but suffer the hounds to flesh themselves upon the quarrie, or it may be, a royall fish, such a one as may fill a dish to furnish Neptunes table, & by that meanes we are cosen’d of our quarry. So that as I ever thought on Land, I find the same at Sea, Hawking to be the better sport. I had almost forgot, to tell what kind of fish this flying fish is, which is the cause of such excellent sport, both in himselfe and others, he is just like a Pilchard, but his fins larger, both in breadth & length, & as long as they are wett, so long he flyes; and for their mortall enemies the birds, they continue with us from 33. degrees til we come to 15. and then leave us.

At which time and place, another kinde undertakes us, not much bigger then a Castrill; and as near that colour as may bee, but of another manner of flying: for these flye close to the water, and turne about every wave; so that wee often lose sight of them, by interposing of the waves, and think somtimes that a wave has overwhelmed her. The pleasure she gives the eye, is by the giddinesse of her flying, and often seems to be lost: and yet (contrary to our expectation) appears againe. But I will trouble you no longer with the inhabitants of the Plyant Aire, but dive into the Deep, to try what pleasure that Element affords to give you delight.

There is a Fish called a Sharke, which as he is a common enemy to Saylers and all others that venture, in Calmes, to commit their naked bodies to the sea (for he often bites off Legs, sometimes Armes, and now and then swallowes the whole body, if the Fish bee great): So when the Saylers take them, they use them accordingly. Sometimes by putting out their eyes, and throwing them over bord; sometimes by mangling and cutting their bodies, finns, and tayles, making them a prey to others, who were mercilesse Tyrants themselves; And in this kind of justice they are very Accurate.

Many of these fishes we took; some by striking with harping Irons, some with Fishgigs, some with hookes; and amongst the rest, one very large, which followed the Ship foure houres, before wee went about to take him; and perceived before him, a little Fish which they call the _Pilot Fish_; This little guide of his, swims sometimes a yeard before him, sometimes more or lesse, at his pleasure; and in his greatest adversity often cleaves to him, and like a deare friend, stickes closest when hee needs him most: for when he is taken, this little fish, never fayles to fasten himselfe to his head, or some part neere that, and resolves to dye with him. The experience of this wee found not only in this great fish, but in all the rest wee had formerly taken, for wee never took the one without the other. And the Engine wee took this great Sharke with, was a large Hook, baited with a piece of Beef; which he received into his mouth, his belly being turned upwards, for his mouth being short of his snout a good deale, he could not take it conveniently, his back being upward, by reason his snout drove the line afore it, but as soon as wee perceived the baite to be swallowed, we gave a sudden pull, which fastned the hook so, as we were sure the weight of his body would not teare it out, Wee drew him up, and laid him in the Wast of the Ship, where none durst abide but the Seamen who dare doe any thing.

Wee had aboard divers mastive Dogges, and amongst them, one so large and fierce, as I have seldome seen any like him; this Dogge flew to him with the greatest Courage that might be, but could take no hold of him, by reason of his large roundnesse and sliminesse; but if by chance he got hold of one of his finnes, the Sharke would throw him from side to side of the Ship, as if he had been nothing; and doubtlesse if he had encountred him in his own Element, the Sea, he would have made quick work with him.

Divers of this kind wee took, but none so large; he was about 16 foot long, and 10 foot about the middle. Other fishes wee took, as the _Bonito_, the _Spanish Maquerell_, the _Albucore_, _Dolphin_, _&c._ which wee found excellent meate, but especially the _Albacore_, which is a fish of such a shape, as it pleased me much to look on. Those wee took were not much above a yard long, with forked tayles, the gristles very firme and strong, and the body neer that, no bigger then a mans wrist; but suddenly growing upward to such a greatnesse, as I have seldome seen any like him, and so strong withall, as a sayler a very strong man, holding one of them fast by the gill, when this fish mov’d but his tayle to get loose, gave such a spring, as he had like to have put his arme out of joynt. These kind of fishes, in a cleare Sunshine evening, delight themselves and us, by trying which of them can leap highest above water, so that ’tis a pretty pastime, to see fishes so large, and gloriously colour’d, shew themselves so far above their naturall Element, whose shapes and colours gave such variety. But this sport we saw not often.

I will trouble you no more, with mentioning the variety of shapes and colours of fishes, till I come to St. _Jago_; onely one, and that a very small one; for his body is not much bigger then a large Pomegranate, and yet his faculties are such, as may draw more eyes to look on him and more mindes to consider him, then the Vast _Whale_: for though it be true, that his large body, appearing above the surface of the water being in calmes a smooth leavell superficies, and suddenly appearing, is one of the strangest and most monstrous sights that can be in nature; (and the more admirable, when he is incountred by his two mortall enemies, the _Sword_ and _Theshal_ fishes. For to shake them off, he leapes more then his owne length, above water; and in his fall, beats the sea with such violence, as the froth and foame is seen a quarter of an houre after, White, as when ’tis beaten by a strong West wind against a Rock; and at other times, spouts out the Water in great quantities; the height of an ordinary Steeple.) Yet this great master-piece of Nature, is not in my opinion so full of wonder, nor doth raise the consideration to such a height: as this little fish the _Carvill_, who can when he pleases, enjoy himselfe with his neighbour fishes, under water; And when he putts on a resolution to trie his fortune in another Element, the _Ayer_, he riseth to the top of the sea, let the billow go never so high, and there without the help of a sayler, Raises up his maine Mast, spreads his sayles, which he makes of his own sinewes, fits his Rudder and Ballast, and begins his voyage; But to what Coast he is bound, or what trafique he intends, himselfe and He that made him onely can tell. Fishes there are none to prey on, nor flies, and therefore ’tis not for food he travailes; I have seen them 500 leagues from any land, if his voyage be to any Port, he must have a long time and much patience to get thither; if to sea, hee’s there already; in one thing he hath the advantage of any ship that ever sayled: for he can go neerer the wind by a poynt, then the most yare Friggot that ever was built. Which shewes how farre Nature can exceed Art. Another advantage he has, that in the greatest Tempest, he never feares drowning. Compasse, nor Card he needs not, for he is never out of his way; whether then his voyage be for pleasure or profit we are yet to seeke.

But before wee arive at our next Harbour, St _Jago_, one of the _Iles_ of Cape Verd, and now revolted from the King of Spayne, to the Portugall; Let me tell you, one little observation I made of the Ships way; which in slacke windes, and darke nights, wee saw nothing under water, but darkenes; but in stiffe windes, and strong gayles, wee saw perfectly the keele of the Ship; and fishes playing underneath, as lighted by a torch, and yet the nights of equall darkenes. Which put me in mind of a poynt of Philosophy I had heard discourst of, among the Learned; That in the Ayer, Rough hard bodies, meeting with one another, by violent stroakes, Rarifie the Ayer, so as to make fire. So here, the ship being of a hard substance, and in a violent motion, meeting with the strong resistance of the waves: (who though they bee not hard, yet they are rough, by reason of their saltnes,) doe cause a light, though no fire, and I may guesse, that that light would bee fire, were it not quencht by the sea, in the instant it is made; which in his owne Element, hath the greater power and predominancie.

But before wee came to St _Jago_, wee were to have visited a small Iland called _Soll_; by the intreatie of a Portugall wee carried with us, whose name was _Bernardo Mendes de Sousa_; who pretended, to have a great part of the Iland (if not the whole) to bee his owne; but for that, it lay somewhat out of our waye, and wee could not recover it, by reason the winde was Crosse; and partly for that wee were informed by some of the Saylers, who told us it was uninhabited by any, but Goats, Dogs, and the like; and wee guest, hee would (out of a vaine glorie) shew us something that he Call’d his. But the Master, who well knew the Condition of the place, would not lose so much tyme to no purpose. Which gave some discontentment to the Portugall, which hee exprest in his Countenance, by a sullen dogged looke, till wee came to St _Jago_. But that was but a whetstone, to sharpen a worse humour hee was big with; for though our Merchants redeem’d him out of prison in _London_, intending him a Mayne director in the whole voyage; whose Credulous eares hee highly abused, by telling them, That the _Padre Vagado_ (Chiefe Governour of St _Jago_) was his brother, and that by the power hee had with him, to lay all trade open, for Negroes, Horses, and Cattle, which were there Contrabanded goods; By which perswasion, they gave him the power and Command of the ship and goods. But hee intended nothing lesse then the performance of that trust, but instead of it, meant to make prey of both, and of our Liberties, and probably lives to boote, if wee had not bin verie wary of him.

The first thing wee perceiv’d in him, was a strange looke hee put on, when wee came nere the Iland; which caused us to suspect some great and bad designe hee was bent on, for being Iolly and very good Companie all the voyage, to change his Countenance when wee were nere the place where wee hop’d to enjoy our selves with happinesse and Contentment, was a presage of some evill intent to bee put in practice, which howerly wee expected; and were all at gaze what part of it was first to bee acted; which hee (more speedily then hee needed) discovered, and it was thus.

Our water, being a good part spent in our passage thither, and wee being to make new and large provisions for the remaynder of our Voyage, carrying horses and Cattle with us: which wee were to take in there; hee Commanded the Master by the power he had over him, to send a shoare all the emptie Caske hee had aboard; with intent to detayne them; and so make us comply, by little and little to his ends. But the Master absolutely denied the Landing our great Caske, but told him he would send our quarter Caskes, in our long boate, and so by making often returnes, to fill our Pipes & Buts. But finding himself at a losse in this designe, thought good to keepe us from any water at all; and so appointed our men, to dig in the valley under the Padres house, where he was well assured no Springs of water were to be found. But some of our men, who spoke good Spanish, by their enquiries heard, That there was a very good well on the other side of the hill, under the Castle, and were brought to the sight of it by some of the Country people; Which when he perceiv’d we had knowledge of, he was much out of Countenance, and used his best eloquence to make us beleeve he had never heard of that Well.

So finding that this practice would not serve his turne, he tryed another: and that was to command our Master, to carrie a shoare, that part of the Cargo soone that was consign’d for that place, which was Cloath, Bayes, Stuffes of severall kindes, Linen Cloath, Hats with broad brims, such as Spaniards use to weare, and were made in London purposely to put off there, and these goods being valued, when they were receiv’d at Land, there should be a returne made, in Horses, and Cattle. But as we had Cause to suspect him for the Cask, so wee had for the Cargo, and so return’d him this answer, that we would not land any of our goods, without receiving the like valew in Cattle; and so by parcells to receive the one, and deliver the other.

On which message, we sent the Purser of our ship, that spoke good Spanish; But _Bernardo_, being vext to the height that his Plot was discovered, kept him prisoner. We sent another to demand him which was like wise detayned, then we sent 3 or 4 more and some of the soldiers of the Castle gave fire upon them, Soe that wee resolv’d to weigh Anchor and put to Sea for a weeke or tenne dayes and returne in the night (the weather being darke and fitt for our purpose) and surprise the Padres house with 50 Musketeers which we could muster verie well of the Gentlemen and other passengers in the ship, and some of the Saylers, and take the _Padre Vagado_, and _Bernardo Mendes de Sousa_, and carrie them to the _Barbados_. But the Padre not knowing of this designe in _Bernardo_, sent to us a verie kind message inviting himselfe aboard our ship, receiving hostages from us, and soe upon treatie with him aboard, settled a trade, and got our prisoners releast; whereupon we were invited to his house or rather his Rocke, for it was most part of it form’d in a Rocke, with a steep and verie high precipice.

But I am mislead into this digression by this wicked Portugall, whose unlucky Countenance before we came to the _Iland_, gave me the occasion to say somewhat of him, and his miscariage in the _Iland_, before I came at it.

But when we came within sight of it, it appeared to us full of high & steep Rocks, (the highest of which were meere stone, without any soyle at all) and they of so great a height, as we seldome saw the tops, whilst we lay before it; being interposed by mists, and Clouds: which rise and darken the skie in the time of the _Turnado_. But the day we had the first sight of it, being very cleare; and we being at a competent distance, had a perfect view of it. But those of the second altitude, appear’d not so white, but had a grayish colour, as if covered with light and sandy earth. But the lowest of those, seem’d rather Hills, than Rockes; but yet so russet, as we were in doubt whether grasse did ever grow on them. But when we came within distance of discerning colour perfectly; wee expected the vallies, as they opened to us, would have afforded our eyes a richer prospect, with more variety of colours, but we found very little or no amendment, onely the trees of _Coconuts_, with some other that were large and beautiful, whose tops (giving amply proportionable shadowes to their roots) held their greennesse and were extreame beautifull. But the time of our stay there, being the _Turnado_, when the sunne (being in his returne from the Tropique of Cancer, to that of Capricorne, to visit and refresh the Southern world,) became _Zenith_ to the inhabitants of that part of the world; which is about the beginning of _August_: At which time the raines fall in abundance, and is accompted winter, to those parts where the _Zenith_ is, and we staying there 19 or 20 dayes, (the raine falling a good part of that time,) wee perceived the valleys to put on new liveries; so fresh, so full of various greens, intermixt with flowers of severall kinds, some growing on stalkes, some on trees, so full of varietie, of the most beautifull colours, as if nature had made choyce of that place to shew her Master piece. So that, having feasted our eyes with this delighted object, we desired to try whether their smel was as pleasant and odoriferous, as their beauty was admirable; and to satisfie our selves of this curiosity, would willingly have gone a shoare but wee were advised to stay a little, till we were better assured of our _Portugall Bernardo_. Which stay, gave us time to take a view of the Harbour or Bay, which they call the _Pry_, and is about a league over from land to land. And, as I guest, somewhat more; from the poynts of land, to the bottome; and, as we enter, we leave a small Iland on our Larboard side

This _Bay_ or _Pry_, lies to the _Leeward_ of the Iland; by reason whereof we found so great, so insufferable heate, as you will hardly imagine that bodyes comming out of cold Climates, could indure such scorching without being suffocated.

I had in a Cabinet two pieces of hard waxe, in the hold of the ship both melted and clave together; and the Cement of that Cabinet, that was made to hold the Inke, melted and became flat.

So that finding the _Ayer_ so torridly hot, I thought good to make triall of the water; and I leapt into the sea, which appeared to my sense no more colder than the _Ayer_; than the Queens bath (at _Bathe_) is hotter in _June_ here in England.

At the bottome, or inward part of the _Pry_, there appeared to us, a faire round rising hill, neere halfe the bredth of the _Pry_, not much unlike the How at _Plimouth_, with a valley on either side; And on the brow of the Hill towards the right hand, a very high and steep precipice of a rocke; in which stood the house of the _Padre Vagado_, fixt on the top of the rocke. A house fit enough for such a Master; for though he were the chiefe Commander of the Iland: yet by his port and house he kept he was more like a _Hermite_ then a Governour. His familie consisting of a _Mollotto_ of his own getting, three Negroes, a Fidler, and a Wench. Himselfe a man grave enough to be wise, but certainly of no great learning; for upon the differences between _Bernardo_ and us, Colonel _Modiford_ writ him a letter in Latin, which he did his best endeavour to answer but fell two bowes short in substance and language, and though his Quarrell were to us, yet he revenged himselfe on _Priscian_, whose head he broke 3 or 4 times in his letter.

The first time we saw him, was at his own house, by his own invitation: to which almost inaccessible habitation, when we had climed with infinite difficulty; and indeed so painfull and violent was our motion: (our leggs finding the motion of elevation, much more violent then of distention,) as we were almost scalded within, and the torrid heat of the Sun, being then our _Zenith_, did so scald us without, as we were in fitter condition to be fricased for the _Padres_ dinner, then to eat any dinner our selves.

Being painfully and pipeing hot, arriv’d at this exalted mansion; we found none to entertaine us but _Bernardo_; whose countenance was not so well reconcil’d to himselfe, as to give us a hearty welcome. He told us that the _Padre_ was gone forth about some affaires of the Iland, but would returne time enough to dinner. And whilst we were staying there, expecting his comming, we thought good not to be idle, for the structure of that Fabricke, did not minister to our eyes much of delight. Onely that it had a faier prospect to sea. So we walkt along upon that round hill, enquiring what we could of the place; and were inform’d that there had been formerly a very stately Town, beautified with faire buildings, and streets so contrived, as to make the best use of such a prospect; But burnt and demolisht by Sr Francis _Drake_, in the time of the warres, between Queen _Elizabeth_, and the King of _Spaine_, which made us give more reverence to the place; for that some of our Countreymen had there sacrificed their lives for the Honour of our Nation.

About the houre that our stomacks told us, it was full high time to pay Nature her due, we lookt about us, and perceived at a good distance, a horse comming towards us, with a man on his back, as hard as his heels could carry him; and within a very little time, made a sudden stop at the _Padres_ house, from whose backe (being taken by two _Negroes_,) was set on the ground a great fat man, with a gowne on his back, his face not so black as to be counted a _Molotto_, yet I believe full out as black as the Knight of the Sunne; his eyes blacker if possible, and so far sunk into his head, as with a large pinne you might have prick’t them out in the nappe of his necke. Upon his a lighting we perceived him very much discomposed, for the pace he rid, was not his usuall manner of riding, as by our enquiry afterwards we understood; and that he very seldom rid at all, but his business having held him over long, caus’d him to take horse, who intended to come a foot; and being mounted, (and he none of the best horsemen,) was made subject to the wil of his horse; which being a Barbe, & very swift of foot, comming towards the place where he was kept, ranne with such violence, as it was a wonder his burthen had not been cast by the way; for the Horse having a bit in his month, and the stirrops being extreame short, as the manner of their riding there is, if he had ever checkt him with the bridle, that he had been put to bound, he had undoubtedly layd him on the ground. But the rider that thought of nothing more, then holding fast by the pummell with both handes, was miraculously preserv’d.

In this great discomposure, he was taken off by two _Negroes_, and set on his owne legs: but in such a trance, as for some minutes, he was not in a Condition to speake to us: So sensible an impression had the feare of falling made in him. But being at last come to himselfe, he made his addresse to us, and in his language bid us welcome, begining to excuse his too long stay: to redeeme which fault, he had put himselfe in such a hazard, as in his whole life he had not knowne the like. We answered, that it argued a great respect and civilitie to us, that he would expose his gravitie, which was accustomed to a moderate pace, to such a swiftnes of motion, as might in any kinde indanger his health, or hazard his person. But he being a man much reserv’d, and slow of language, said no more; but brought us into his house; which was upon a Levell at the entrance, but the other side of the Rooms a steep precipice, and some of the roomes like galleries such as are in the meanest _Innes_ upon _London_-way. There were not in the house above 4 roomes, besides two galleries and a Kitchin; and those all on a flower; and the flowers of earth, not so much as made Levell, nor soeeven as to deserve sweeping; and the most of them were justly dealt withall: for they had no more then they deserv’d, both above and below; for the Cobwebs serv’d for hangings, and frying pans and gred-irons for pictures.

By this equipage, you may guesse what the trading is of this _Iland_, when the Governour is thus accoutred; but by and by, a Cloath was layde, of Calico, with 4 or 5 Napkins of the same, to serve a dozen men. The first Course was set on the table, usherd in by the Padre himselfe, (_Bernardo_, the _Mollotto_, and _Negroes_ following after,) with every one a dish of fruite, 6 in all; the first was Milons, Plantines the second, the third Bonanos, the 4 of Guavers, the 5 of Prickled Peares, the 6 the Custard Apple: but to fill up the table, and make the feast yet more sumptuous, the Padre sent his _Mollotto_, into his own Chamber, for a dish which he reserv’d for the Close of all the rest; Three _Pines_ in a dish, which were the first that ever I had seene, and as farre beyond the best fruite that growes in England, as the best _Abricot_ is beyond the worst Slow or Crab.

Having well refresht our selves with these excellent fruites, we dranke a glasse or two of Red Sack; a kinde of wine growing in the _Maderas_; verie strong, but not verie pleasant; for in this Iland, there is made noe wine at all; nor as I thinke any of grapes, so neere the Line upon Ilands in all the world. Having made an end of our fruite, the dishes were taken away, and another Course fetcht in; which was of flesh, fish, and sallets; the sallets being first plac’t upon the table; which I tooke great heed of, being all Novelties to me, but the best and most savourie herbs that ever I tasted, verie well season’d with salt, Oyle, and the best vinagre. Severall sorts we had, but not mixt, but in severall dishes, all strange, and all excellent. The first dish of flesh, was a leg of young sturke, or a wilde Calfe, of a yeare old; which was of the Colour of stags flesh, and tasted very like it, full of Nerves and sinewes, strong meat and very well Condited: boyld tender, and the sauce of savorie herbes, with Spanish Vinagre. Turkyes and Hens we had roasted; a gigget of young goate, fish in abundance of severall kindes, whose names I have forgotten, Snappers, grey and red; Cavallos, Carpions, &c: with others of rare colours and shapes, too many to be named in this leafe; some fryed in oyle, and eaten hot, some souc’t, some marinated: of all these we tasted, and were much delighted.