Chapter III: Part 3

The length and breadth of this Iland, I must deliver you only upon trust; for, I could not go my selfe about it, being full of other businesse, but I had some speech with the antientest, and most knowing Surveyer there, one Captain _Swann_, who told me, that he once took an exact plot of the whole Iland, but it was commanded out of his hands by the then Governour, Sir _Henry Hunks_, who carried it into _England_; since which time, neither himselfe, nor any other, to his knowledge, had taken any; nor did he believe, there was any extant. I desired him yet that he would rub up his memory, and take a little paines in the survey of his Papers, to try what could be found out there, that might give me some light in the extent of the Iland, which he promised to do; and within a while after, told me, that he had found by some Papers, that lay scattered in his Study, the length of it; but for the breadth, it was very uncertain, by reason of the nooks and corners that reach’d out into the Sea, so that it must of necessity be broad in some places, and narrow in others. I desired then to know, how many miles the broadest, and how few the narrowest parts might be. He told me, that he guest, the broadest place could not be above seventeen miles, nor the narrowest under twelve; and that the length, he was assured, was twenty eight miles. Out of these uncertain grounds, it was a hard matter to conclude upon any certainties; and therefore the evenest way I can go, is, upon a _Medium_, between twelve and seventeen; and, I will be as modest as I can in my computation; and take but 14. which is lesse then the _Medium_, and multiply 14. which is supposed to be the breadth, by 28. which is assured to be the length, and they make 392 square miles in the Iland. Beyond this, my enquiries could not reach, and therefore was compell’d to make my estimate upon this bare Supposition. But, for the forme of the _Superficies_ of the Iland, I am utterly ignorant; and for the Upright, I have given it you in my first view of the Iland, that it rises highest in the middle.

[Sidenote: _The Length of daies._]

When the Sun is in the _Æquinoctiall_, or within 10 Degrees of either side, we finde little change in the daies length; for at six and six the Sun rises and sets: but when he is neer the Tropick of _Capricorn_, and is 37 Degrees from us, we finde a difference; for then, the day is somewhat shorter, and we perceive that shortning, to begin about the end of _October_; the _Crepusculum_ being then not much longer then at other times, which is not halfe the length, as ’tis with us in _England_.

At the time of new _Moon_, we finde both her Corners equally high, when the Sun is neer us; but when it is at the distance of 37 Degrees to the Southward, we finde some difference; for then it hangs not so equall, but one end is higher then the other, by reason of the position we are in.

[Sidenote: _Temperature of the ayre._]

Eight months of the year, the weather is very hot, yet not so scalding, but that servants, both Christians, and slaves, labour and travell tenne hours in a day.

As the Sunne rises, there arises with him coole breezes of wind, and the higher and hotter the sunne shines, the stronger and cooler the breezes are, and blow alwaies from the Nore East, and by East, except in the time of the _Turnado_: And then it sometimes chops about into the South, for an hour or two, and then returnes againe to the same poynt where it was. The other foure months it is not so hot, but is neer the temper of the aire in England, in the middle of May, and though in the hot seasons we sweat much, yet we doe not finde that faintnesse, that we finde here, in the end of July, or beginning of August. With this great heat, there is such a moysture, as must of necessity cause the ayer to be very unwholsome.

We are seldome drye or thirsty, unlesse we overheat our bodyes with extraordinary labour, or drinking strong drinks; as of our English spirits, which we carry over, of french Brandy, or the drinke of the Iland, which is made of the skimmings of the Coppers, that boyle the Sugar, which they call kill-Divell. And though some of these be needfull if they be used with temper; yet the immoderate use of them, over-heats the body, which causes Costivenesse, and Tortions in the bowels; which is a disease very frequent there; and hardly cur’d, and of which many have dyed, but certainely, strong drinks are very requisit, where so much heat is; for the spirits being exhausted with much sweating, the inner parts are left cold and faint, and shall need comforting, and reviving. Besides, our bodyes having bin used to colder Clymates, finde a debility, and a great fayling in the vigour, and sprightliness we have in colder Climats; our blood too, is thinner and paler than in our own Countreys. Nor is the meat so well relisht as in England; but flat and insipid, the hogges flesh onely excepted, which is indeed the best of that kinde that I thinke is in the world.

Our Horses and Cattle seldome drinke, and when they do, it is in very small quantities; except such as have their bodies over heated with working.

This moysture of the ayre, causes all our knives, etweese, keyes, needles, swords, and ammunition, to rust; and that in an instant for take your knife to the grindstone, and grind away all the rust; which done, wipe it dry, and put it up into your sheath, and so into your pocket, and in a very little time, draw it out; and you shall find it beginning to rust all over; which in more time, will eate deep into the steele, and spoyle the blade. Our locks too, that are not often made use of, will rust in the wards, and so become uselesse and Clocks, and Watches will seldome or never go true; and all this occasion’d by the moystnesse of the Ayre. And this we found at sea: for before we came neere this Iland, we perceiv’d a kind of weather, which is neither raine nor mist, and continued with us sometimes four or five dayes together, which the seamen call a Heysey weather, and rises to such a height, as though the sunne shine out bright, yet we cannot see his body, till nine a clock in the morning, nor after three in the afternoone. And we see the skie over our heads cleare: a close and very unhealthfull weather, and no pleasure at all in it.

This great heat and moysture together, is certainely the occasion that the trees and plants grow to such vast height, and largenesse as they are.

[Sidenote: _How watered._]

There is nothing in this Iland so much wanting, as Springs and Rivers of water; there being but very few, and those very smal & inconsiderable. I know but only one River, and that may rather be term’d a Lake, then a River; The Springs that runne into it, are never able to fill it, they are so small; outfall to Sea it has none; but at spring tides, the Sea comes in and fills it; and at Nepe tides, it cannot runne out againe, the sea-banks being higher than it. But some of it issues out through the Sands, and leaves behind it a mixt water, of fresh and salt: at the time the tide comes in, it brings with it some fishes, which are content to remaine there; being better pleased to live in this mixt water, then in the Salt. Colonel _Humphrey Walrond_, who is owner of the land of both sides, and therefore of it; has told me, that he has taken fishes there, as bigge as Salmons, which have been overgrown with fat, as you have seen Porpisces; but extreamely sweet and firme.

But it has not been often, that such fish, or any other, have bin taken in that place, by reason the whole Lake is filled with trees and roots.

So that no Net can be drawn, nor any Hook laid; for they will wind the lines about the roots, and so get away; or the lines break in pulling up, being fastned to the roots.

This River, or Lake, reaches not within the Land above twelve score yards, or a flight shot at most; and there is no part of it so broad, but you may cast a Coyte over it.

The spring tides there, seldome rise above four or five foot upright: there come from the sea into these small bibling rivolets, little Lobsters, but wanting the great clawes afore, which are the sweetest and fullest of fish, that I have seen; _Chicester_ Lobsters are not to be compared to them.

But the water which the people of this Iland most relye upon, is raine water; which they keep in ponds, that have descents of ground to them, so that what falls on other ground, may runne thither. And the place in which the Pond is set, must be low, and claye in the bottome: or if it be not naturally of Clay, it must be made so. For if it finde any Leake to the rocky part, it gets between those clifts, and sinks in an instant. About the end of _December_, these ponds are fill’d; and with the help it hath by the weekly showrs that fall, they continue so, yet sometimes they feele a want. This pond water, they use upon all occasions, and to all purposes; to boyle their meat, to make their drink, to wash their linnen, for it will beare soape. But one thing seem’d to me a little loathsome, and that was the _Negroes_ washing themselves in the Ponds, in hot weather; whose bodies have none of the sweetest savours. But the planters are pleased to say, that the Sunne with his virtuall heat, drawes up all noysome vapours, and so the waters become rarified, and pure againe. But it was a great satisfaction to me, that a little Rivulet was neere us, from whence we fetcht dayly, as much as served us, both for meat, and drink.

In these ponds, I have never seen any small fish, fry, or any thing that lives or moves in it, except some flies that fall intoit; but the water is clear and well tasted. And because their Cattle shall not be in danger of miring or drowning, the best Husbands raile in a part of the Pond, where it is of a competent depth, for the water to stand, and pave that in the bottom with stone; and so the Cattle neither raise the mud, nor sink in with their feet; and so the water comes clear to them.

Water they save likewise from their houses, by gutters at the eves, which carrie it down to cisterns. And the water which is kept there, being within the limits of their houses, many of which are built in manner of Fortifications, and have Lines, Bulwarks, and Bastians to defend themselves, in case there should be any uproar or commotion in the Iland, either by the Christian servants, or Negre slaves; serves them for drink whilst they are besieged; as also, to throw down upon the naked bodies of the Negres, scalding hot; which is as good a defence against their underminings, as any other weapons.

If any tumult or disorder be in the Iland, the next neighbour to it, discharges a Musket, which gives the Alarum to the whole Iland; for, upon the report of that, the next shoots, and so the next, and next, till it go through the Iland: Upon which warning, they make ready.

[Sidenote: _Meat and Drink for supportation of life._]

Bread, which is accounted the staffe, or main supporter of mans life, has not here that full taste it has in _England_; but yet they account it nourishing and strengthening. It is made of the root of a small tree or shrub, which they call _Cassavie_; the manner of his grouth I will let alone, till I come to speak of Trees and Plants in generall.

His root only, which we are now to consider, (because our bread is made of it) is large and round, like the body of a small Still or retort; and as we gather it, we cut sticks that grow neerest to it, of the same tree, which we put into the ground, and they grow. And as we gather, we plant. This root, before it come to be eaten, suffers a strange conversion; for, being an absolute poyson when ’tis gathered, by good ordering, comes to be wholsome and nourishing; and the manner of doing it, is this: They wash the outside of the root clean, and lean it against a Wheel, whose sole is about a foot broad, and covered with Latine, made rough like a large Grater. The Wheel to be turned about with a foot, as a Cutler turnes his Wheel. And as it grates the root, it falls down in a large Trough, which is the receiver appointed for that purpose. This root thus grated, is as rank poyson, as can be made by the art of an Apothecary, of the most venomous simples he can put together: but being put into a strong piece of double Canvas, or Sackcloth, and prest hard, that all the juice be squeezed out, and then opened upon a cloath, and dried in the Sun, ’tis ready to make bread. And thus ’tis done.

They have a piece of Iron, which I guesse is cast round, the diameter of which, is about twenty inches, a little hollowed in the middle, not unlike the mould that the Spectacle makers grinde their glasses on, but not so much concave as that; about halfe an inch thick at the brim or verge, but thicker towards the middle, with three feet like a pot, about six inches high, that fire may be underneath. To such a temper they heat this Pone, (as they call it) as to bake, but not burn. When ’tis made thus hot, the _Indians_, whom we trust to make it, because they are best acquainted with it, cast the meal upon the Pone, the whole breadth of it, and put it down with their hands, and it will presently stick together: And when they think that side almost enough, with a thing like a Battle-dore, they turn the other; and so turn and re-turn it so often, till it be enough, which is presently done. So they lay this Cake upon a flat board, and make another, and so another, till they have made enough for the whole Family. This bread they made, when we came first there, as thick as a pancake; but after that, they grew to a higher degree of curiosity, and made it as thin as a wafer, and yet purely white and crispe, as a new made wafer. Salt they never use in it, which I wonder at; for the bread being tastlesse of it selfe, they should give it some little seasoning. There is no way it eats so well, as in milk, and there it tasts like Almonds. They offer to make Pie-crust, but very few attain to the skill of that; for, as you work it up with your hand, or roll it out with a roller, it will alwaies crackle and chop, so that it will not be raised to hold any liquor, neither with, nor without, butter or eggs.

But after many tryalls, and as often failings, at last, I learnt the secret of an _Indian_ woman, who shew’d me the right way of it, and that was, by searsing it very fine, (and it will fall out as fine, as the finest wheat-flower in _England_) if not finer. Yet, this is not all the secret, for all this will not cure the cracking. But this is the main skill of the businesse: Set water on the fire in a skillet, and put to it as much of this fine flower, as will temper it to the thicknesse of starch or pap; and let it boyl a little, keeping it stirring with a slice; and mix this with the masse of flower you mean to make into pye-crust, which being very well mingled, and wrought together, you may add what cost you will of butter and eggs, and it will rise and stand nere as well as our past in _England_.

But those that have not Cows, & cannot make butter upon the place, but must make use of such as is brought from _England_ or _Holland_, were better leave it out, & be content to eat their pie-crust drie. Yet I make a main difference, between butter that is brought from either of those places, in respect of the times it is brought. For, if a ship set out from _England_ in _November_, and that ship arive at the _Barbadoes_ at the middle, or neer the end of _December_, when the Sun is at the farthest distance, the butter may come thither in very good condition; and being set in cool places, may retain the taste for a while: But, if the ship set out in Spring or Summer, that brings this butter, it is not then to be endured, it is so restie and loathsome. Nor can Cheese be brought from thence without spoyle, at that time of the year, except you put it in oyle. Neither are Candles to be brought, for the whole barrell will stick together in one lump, and stinck so profoundly, as neither Rats nor mice will come neer them, much lesse eat of them. For which reason, the Planters, who are much troubled with this annoyance, as also, for that these candles cannot be taken out of the barrell whole, nor will stand in the candlestick without drooping, and hanging down; they burn for the most part wax lights, which they make themselves, of wax they fetch from _Africa_, and have it at a reasonable rate, there being no Bees in the _Barbadoes_.

But I am too apt to flie out in extravagant digressions; for, the thing I went to speak of, was bread only, and the severall kinds of it; and having said as much of the bread of _Cassavie_ as I know, I will give you one word of another kinde of bread they make, which is a mixt sort of bread, and is made of the flower of _Mayes_ and _Cassavie_ mixt together; for the _Maies_ it selfe will make no bread, it is so extream heavy and lumpish: But these two being mixt, they make it into large Cakes, two inches thick; and that, in my opinion, tasts the likest to English bread of any.

But the Negres use the _Mayes_ another way, which is, toasting the ears of it at the fire, and so eating it warm off the eare. And we have a way, to feed our Christian servants with this _Maies_, which is, by pounding it in a large Morter, and boyling it in water, to the thicknesse of Frumentie; and so put in a Tray such a quantity, as wil serve a messe of seven or eight people; give it them cold, and scarce afford them salt with it. This we call _Lob-lollie_. But the Negres, when they come to be fed with this, are much discontented, and crie out, _O! O! no more Lob-lob_.

The third sort of bread we use, is only Potatoes, which are chosen out of the dryest and largest they can chose: And at the time we first came, there was little else used, at many good Planters Tables in the Iland. And these are all the sorts of bread that I know growing upon the place.

[Sidenote: _Drink of_ Mobbie.]

The next thing that comes in order, is Drink, which being made of severall materialls, afford more variety in the description. The first, and that which is most used in the Iland, is _Mobbie_, a drink made of Potatoes, and thus done. Put the Potatoes into a tub of water, and, with a broom, stir them up and down, till they are washt clean; then take them out, and put them into a large iron or brasse pot, such as you boyl beefe in, in _England_; and put to them as much water, as will only cover a quarter part of them; and cover the top of the pot with a piece of thick canvas doubled, or such cloth as sacks are made with, covering it close, that the steam go not out. Then make a little fire underneath, as much only as will cause these roots to stew, and when they are soft; take them out, and with your hands, squeeze, break, and mash them very small, in fair water, letting them stay there, till the water has drawn and suckt out all the spirit of the roots, which will be done in an houre or two. Then put the liquor and roots into a large wollen bag, like a jelly-bag, poynted at the bottom; and let it run through that, into a Jar, and within two hours it will begin to work. Cover it, and let it stand till the next day, and then ’tis fit to be drunk. And as you will have it stronger or smaller, put in greater or lesser quantities of roots; some make it so strong, as to be drunk with small quantities. But the drink it selfe, being temperately made, does not at all flie up into the head, but is a sprightly thirst-quenching drink. If it be put up in small casks, as Rundlets, or Firkins, it will last foure or five daies good, and drink much more sprightly then out of the Jar. I cannot liken it to any thing so neer, as _Rhenish-wine_ in the Must; but it is short of it in the strength of the spirit, and finenesse of the tast.

There are two severall layers, in which these roots grow; one makes the skins of the Potatoes white, the other red: And where the red roots grow, the _Mobbie_ will be red like _Claret-wine_, the other white.

Though this be the drink most generally used in the Iland, yet I cannot commend the wholsomnesse of it; for, the most part of the roots have a moyst quality in them, and are the cause of Hydropicke humours. Mr. _Phillip Bell_, then the Governour of the Iland told me that when he was Governour of the Ile of _Providence_, that there chanc’d some Spaniards to land there, and tasting of this drinke, wondred that any of those that continually drinke it were alive; so unwholsome and Hydropicke he conceived this drinke to be.

[Sidenote: _Perino._]

Another drinke they have which is accounted much wholesomer, though not altogether so pleasant, and that is _Perino_; a drink which the Indians make for their own drinking, and is made of the _Cassavy_ root, which I told you is a strong poyson; and this they cause their old wives, who have a small remainder of teeth to chaw and spit out into water, (for the better breaking and macerating of the root). This juyce in three or four hours will worke, and purge it selfe of the poysonous quality.

Having shewed, you in the making of Bread, that the moysture being prest out, which is accounted the poysonous quality that root has, by drying and baking, it is made usefull and wholsome, and now having the juyce and root both used, and both these put into water, which is moyst, I know not which way to reconcile these direct contraryes, but this; that the poyson of the old womens breath and teeth having been tainted with many severall poxes, (a disease common amongst them, though they have many and the best cures for it,) are such opposites to the poyson of the _Cassavie_, as they bend their forces so vehemently one against another, as they both spend their poysonous qualities in that conflict; and so the relict of them both, becomes lesse unwholsome; and the water, which is in it selfe pure, casts out the remainder of the ill qualities they leave behind: which is manifested by the extraordinary working, which is farre beyond that of Beere, Wine, or Sider with us in _Europe_. This drink will keep a month or two, being put into barrels, and tasts the likest to English beere of any drink we have there.

[Sidenote: _Grippo._]

_Grippo_ is a third sort of drinke, but few make it well; it was never my chance to taste it, which made me the lesse curious to enquire after it.

[Sidenote: _Punch._]

_Punch_ is a fourth sort, & of that I have drunke; it is made of water & sugar put together, which in tenne dayes standing will be very strong, and fit for labourers.

[Sidenote: _Plum-drinke._]

A fifth, is made of wilde Plumbs, which grow here in great abundance, upon very large trees, which being prest, and strayned, give a very sharpe, and poynant flaver; but there is not much of it made, because of the trouble of making it, and they are not there very indulgent to their palats.

[Sidenote: _Plantine-drinke._]

But the drinke of the Plantine, is farre beyond all these; gathering them full ripe, and in the height of their sweetnesse, we pill off the skin, and mash them in water well boyl’d; and after we have let them stay there a night, we straine it, and bottle it up, and in a week drink it; and it is very strong and pleasant drinke, but it is to be drunk but sparingly, for it is much stronger then Sack, and is apt to mount up into the head.

The seaventh sort of drink is that we make of the skimming of sugar, which is infinitely strong, but not very pleasant in taste; it is common, and therefore the lesse esteem’d; the value of it is halfe a Crown a gallon, the people drink much of it, indeed too much; for it often layes them asleep on the ground, and that is accounted a very unwholsome lodging.

[Sidenote: _Beveridge._]

The eighth sort of drink is Beveridge, made of spring water, white sugar, and juyce of Orenges, and this is not onely pleasant but wholsome.

[Sidenote: _Wine of Pines._]

The last and best sort of drinke that this Iland or the world affords, is the incomparable wine of Pines; And is certainly the Nectar which the Gods drunke; for on earth there is none like it; and that is made of the pure juyce of the fruit it selfe, without commixture of water, or any other creature, having in it selfe, a naturall compound of all tastes excellent, that the world can yield. This drink is too pure to keep long; in three or four dayes it will be fine; ’tis made by pressing the fruite and strayning the liquor, and it is kept in bottles.

Having given you a taste of the Bread, and Drinke this Iland affords, which will serve any mans palate, that is not over curious; I could tell you what we have of both sorts that is brought to us from other parts of the world; as Biskets, both fine and coorse, Barrels of meale close put up; which comes to us very sweet from _England_, and _Holland_; of which we make Bread, Pye-crust, and Puddings. And for drink good English Beer, French and Spanish Wines, with others, some from the _Maderas_, some from Fiall, one of the Ilands of _Asores_; So we cannot justly complaine of want, either of bread or drink, and, from England, spirits, some of Anniseeds, some of Mint, some of Wormwood, &c. And from _France_, _Brandy_, which is extreame strong, but accounted very wholsome.

[Sidenote: _Meat of all kinds._]

Having given you a just account, as neere as my memory will serve of the bread and drinke of this Iland: The next thing is the severall sortes of meat we have there; and because Hogges flesh is the most generall meat, and indeed the best the Iland affords, I will begin with that, which is (without question) as good, as any can be of that kind: for their feeding being as good, as can grow any where, the flesh must needs be answerable; fruit, the nuts of Locust, Pompians of a rare kind, almost as sweet as Milons, the bodies of the Plantines, and Bonanoes, Sugar-canes, and Mayes, being their dayly food.

When we came first upon the Iland, I perceiv’d the sties they made to hold them, were trees, with the ends lying crosse upon one another, and the inclosure they made, was not large enough to hold the numbers of Hogges were in them, with convenient distance to play and stirre themselves for their health, and pleasure; so that they were in a manner pesterd, and choakt up, with their own stinke, which is sure the most noysome of any other beast, and by reason of the Suns heat much worse; I have smelt the stinke of one of those sties downe the wind, neer a mile, through all the wood: and the crouding and thrusting them so close together, was certainly the cause of their want of health, which much hindred their growth; So that they were neither so large, nor their flesh so sweet, as when they were wild, and at their own liberty, and choyce of feeding.

For I have heard Major _Hilliard_ say: that at their first comming there, they found Hogges, that one of them weighed (the intrals being taken out, and the head off) 400 weight. And now at the time of my being there, the most sort of those, that were in ours and our neighbours styes, were hardly so big as the ordinary swine in _England_. So finding this decay in their grouth, by stowing them too close together, I advised Collonell _Modiford_ to make a larger stye, and to wall it about with stone; which he did, and made it a mile about, so that it was rather a Park than a Stye; and set it on the side of a drie Hill, the greatest part Rock, with a competent Pond of water in the bottom; and plac’d it between his two Plantations, that from either, food might be brought, and cast over to them, with great convenience: And made several divisions in the Park, for the Sowes with Pigg, with little houses standing shelving, that their foulnesse by gutters might fall away, and they lie drie; Other divisions for the Barrow-Hoggs, and some for Boars.

This good ordering caused them to grow so large and fat, as they wanted very little of their largnesse when they were wilde. They are the sweetest flesh of that kinde, that ever I tasted, and the lovliest to look on in a dish, either boyl’d, roasted, or bak’d: With a little help of art. I will deceive a very good palate, with a shoulder of it for Mutton, or a leg for Veal, taking off the skin, with which they were wont to make minc’t Pies, seasoning it with salt, cloves, and mace, and some sweet herbs minc’t. And being bak’d, and taken out of the Oven, opening the lid, put in a dramme-cup of _kill-devill_; and being stirr’d together, set it on the Table; and that they call’d a _Calvesfoot pie_; and, till I knew what it was made of, I thought it very good meat. When I came first upon the Iland, I found the Pork drest the plain waies of boyling, roasting, and sometimes baking: But I gave them some tastes of my Cookery, in hashing, and fricaseing this flesh; and they all were much taken with it; and in a week, every one was practising the art of Cookery. And indeed, no flesh tasts so well in Collops, Hashes, or Fricases, as this, And when I bak’d it, I alwaies laid a Side of a young Goat underneath, and a side of a Shot (which is a young Hog of a quarter old) a top. And this, well seasoned, and well bak’d, is as good meat, as the best Pasty of Fallow-Deer, that ever I tasted.

In the coolest time of the year, I have made an essay to powder it, and hang it up for Bacon: But there is such losse in’t, as ’tis very ill husbandry to practise it; for, it must be cut through in so many places, to let the salt in, as when ’tis to be drest, much goes to waste. And therefore I made no more attempts that way. But a little corning with salt, makes this flesh very savoury, either boyled or roasted.

About _Christmas_, we kill a Boar, and of the sides of it, make three or four collers of Brawne; for then the weather is so cool, as, with some art, it may be kept sweet a week: and to make the souc’t drink give it the speedier and quicker seasoning, we make it of _Mobbie_, with store of Salt, Limons, and Lymes, sliced in it, with some Nutmeg, which gives it an excellent flaver.

Beef, we have very seldome any, that feeds upon the soyle of this place, except it be of Gods killing, (as they tearme it); for very few are kill’d there by mens hands; it were too ill husbandry, for they cost too dear, and they cannot be spared from their work, which they must advance by all the means they can. Such a Planter as Collonell _James Drax_ (who lives like a Prince) may kill now and then one; but very few in the Iland did so when I was there.

The next to Swines-flesh in goodnesse, are Turkies, large, fat, and full of gravie. Next to them, Pullen or Dunghill-foule: and last of all, Muscovia-Ducks, which being larded with the fat of this Porke, (being seasoned with pepper and salt) are an excellent bak’d-meat. All these, with their Eggs and Chickens, we eat.

Turtle-Doves they have of two sorts, and both very good meat; but there is a sort of Pidgeons, which come from the leeward Ilands at one time of the year, and it is in _September_; and stay till _Christmas_ be past, and then return again: But very many of them nere make returnes, to tell newes of the good fruit they found there: For, they are so fat, and of such excellent tastes, as many foulers kill them with guns, upon the trees; and some of them are so fat, as their weight with the fall, causes them to burst in pieces. They are good roasted, boyl’d, or bak’d, but best cut in halves, and stewed; to which Cookery, there needs no liquor, for their own gravie will abundantly serve to stew them.

Rabbets we have, but tame ones, and they have but faint tastes, more like a Chicken then a Rabbet.

And though they have divers other Birds, which I will not forget to recount in their due times, and place; yet, none for food for the Table, which is the businesse I tend at this present. Other flesh-meat, I do not remember.

Now for fish, though the Iland stands as all Ilands do, invironed with the Sea, (and therefore is not like to be unfurnish’t of that provision) yet, the Planters are so good husbands, and tend their profits so much, as they will not spare a Negres absence so long, as to go to the _Bridge_ and fetch it. And the Fishermen seeing their fish lie upon their hands, and stink, (which it will do in lesse then six hours) forbear to go to Sea to take it; only so much as they can have present vent for, at the Taverns at the _Bridge_; and thither the Planters come, when they have a minde to feast themselves with fish, to Mr. _Jobsons_, or _Joan Fullers_, where they have it well drest; for they were both my Pupills. Butter they seldome have, that will beat thick; but in stead of that, we are fain to use vinegar and spice, and much of it fryed in oyle, and eaten hot; and some marinated, and souc’t in pickle, and eaten cold. Collonell _Humphrey Walrond_ has the advantage of all the Planters in the Iland; for, having a Plantation neer the Sea, he hath of his own a Saine to catch fish withall, which his own servants and slaves put out to Sea, and, twice or thrice a week, bring home all sorts of such small and great fishes, as are neer the shoar; amongst which, some are very large, and excellently well tasted. For, he being a Gentleman, that had been bred with much freedome, liberty, and plenty, in _England_, could not set his mind so earnestly upon his profit, as to forget his accustomed lawfull pleasures, but would have his Table well furnish’d, with all sorts of good meat the Land and Sea afforded; and as freely bid his friends welcome to it. And I, as the poorest of his friends, in a lingring sicknesse, and neer death, found such a charity with him, as I shall never forget to pay my thanks for, to the last hour of my life; and I shall account it as a a great happinesse, (if ever it fall in the compasse of my power) to be servicable to him or his, as any thing that can befall me in the world.

Amongst other fishes that were taken by his Saine, (as the Snappers, red and grey, Cavallos, Maquerells, Mullets, Cony-fish, with divers others, firme and excellent sweet fish) he took four, that were about a yard long at the least, all at one draught, and, to that length, bigger grown then Salmonds, of the rarest colour that ever I beheld; from the back-finne, which is the middle of the fish, to the end of the tail, the purest grasse-green that ever I saw, and as shining as Satine: but the finns and tail dapled or spotted with as pure a hair-colour, and from the back finn to the head, pure hair colour dapled with green; the scales as big for the most part, as a halfe-crown piece of silver. This fish is no fish of prey, but lives by what he finds in the bottom of the Sea, as I perceived by what was in his maw. An excellent sweet fish; I dressed them severall waies, and all proved excellent. There is one fish wanting to this Iland, whose kindes are very frequent upon most of the _Charibby_ and _Lucaick_ Ilands; and that is the green _Turtle_, which is the best food the Sea affords, and the greatest store of them; but I have seen very few of that kind in the _Barbadoes_, and those neither fat nor kindly; and the reason is, there are no shelves nor sands to lay their eggs, or to ayre themselves on: For, these fishes delight to be on the sands, and can remain there twelve hours, all the time the Tyde is out; and then suffer themselves to be carried away by the return of the next Tide. They take infinite numbers of them, by turning them on their backs with staves, where they lie till they are fetcht away. A large _Turtle_ will have in her bodie halfe a bushell of eggs, which she laies in the sand, and that being warm, they are hatcht in the heat.

When you are to kill one of these fishes, the manner is, to lay him on his back on a table, and when he sees you come with a knife in your hand to kill him, he vapours out the grievousest sighes, that ever you heard any creature make, and sheds as large tears as a Stag, that has a far greater body, and larger eyes. He has a joynt or crevis, about an inch within the utmost edge of his shell, which goes round about his body, from his head to his tail, on his belly-side; into which joynt or crevis, you put your knife, beginning at the head, and so rip up that side, and then do as much to the other; then lifting up his belly, which we call his _Calipee_, we lay open all his bowells, and taking them out, come next to his heart, which has three distinct poynts, but all meet above where the fat is; and if you take it out, and lay it in a dish, it will stir and pant ten hours after the fish is dead. Sure, there is no creature on the Earth, nor in the Seas, that enjoyes life with so much sweetnesse and delight, as this poor fish the _Turtle_; nor none more delicate in taste, and more nourishing, then he.

Next to the flesh and fish this Iland affords, ’tis fit to consider what _Quelquechoses_ there are to be found, that may serve to furnish out a Table of such Viands, as are there to be had; which are eggs severall waies, _viz._ pocht, and laid upon sippits of bread, soakt in butter and juice of limes, and sugar, with plumpt currens strewed upon them, and cloves, mace, and cinamon beaten, strewed on that, with a little salt. Eggs boyl’d and roasted, fryed with Collops, of the fat of Pork well powdered. Buttered eggs, an Amulet of eggs, with the juice of Limes and sugar, a Froize, and a Tansey; Custards, as good as any at my Lord Mayors Table; Chees-cakes, Puffes, second Porrage, which is creame boyl’d to a height, with yelke of egges, and season’d with sugar, and spice, Jelly which we make of the flesh of young piggs, calves feet, and a cocke, and is excellent good, but must presently be eaten for it will not last. Creame alone, and some done severall wayes, of which there is great varietie, having Lymons, Lymes, and Oranges readie at hand; and some wherein we put Plantines, Guavers and Bonanoes, stew’d, or preserv’d with sugar, and the same fruits also preserv’d and put in dishes by themselves, without Creame; and for a whetstone, to pull on a cup of wine, we have dryed Neats tongues; brought from new and old England; and from _Holland_, _Westfalia_ bacon, and Caviare; as also pickl’d Herring, and Maquerell, which we have from new _England_, and from _Virginie Botargo_, of which sort I have eaten the best at Colonel _Draxes_ that ever I tasted.

The fruits that this Iland affords, I have already named, and therefore it will be needlesse to name them twice; you may take your choyce, whether you will have them set on the Table before or after meat; they use as they doe in _Italie_, to eate them before meat.

The victualls brought from forraine parts are these, Beef which we have from _Holland_, from Old & New _England_, _Virginie_, and some from _Russia_; and yet comes to us sweet. Porke from all these places, with the most sorts of salt fish; as Ling, Haberdine, Cod, poor-John, pickled Marquerels, pickled Herrings, all very good. Sturgeon from New _England_, but so ill Cookt, as ’tis hardly to be eaten; for they want the skill both of boyling & seasoning it; they first overboyle it, & next over salt it, & so the fish being over tender by boyling, the salt frets and eats upon it all the way; for when we come to open it, being carried farre from the Bridge, & shaken in the carriage: there is scarce a whole peece, but the Sturgeon and pickle all in a mash, & so vehemently salt, as I could never eate any of it, but at Colonel _Walrond_ plantation it is lesse broken.

Pickled Turtle, we have from the Leeward Ilands, but so uncleanly ordered, as we could hardly finde in our hearts to eate it; for they gather the Salt and Sand together, for haste, upon the Iland where it is taken up, as; though we wash it never so wel, yet the grit cracks in our teeth; it has a taste being salted, almost as ill as puffins, which we have from the Iles of _Silly_, but this kind of food, is onely for servants; sometimes the _Negroes_ get a little, but seldome the one or the other did eate any bone meat, at our first comming thither.

But now at my comming away from thence, it was much better’d, for by the care and good Husbandry of the Planters, there was greater plenty, both of the victuals they were wont to eate, as Potatoes, Bonavist, Loblolly, as also of the bone meat, _viz._ Porke, salt Fish, and powder’d beefe, which came thither by sea, from forraine parts, in so much as the _Negroes_ were allowed each man two Maquerels a weeke and every woman one; which were given out to them on Saturday in the evening, after they had their allowance of Plantines, which was every one a large bunch, or two little ones, to serve them for a weeks provision; and if any cattle dyed by mischance, or by any disease: the servants eat the bodies, and the _Negroes_ the skinnes, head, and intrails which was divided amongst them by the overseers; or if any horse, then the whole bodies of them were distributed amongst the _Negroes_, and that they thought a high feast, with which, never poor soules were more contented; and the drinke to the servants with this dyet, nothing but Mobbie, and sometimes a little Beveridge; but the _Negroes_ nothing but faire water. And now I think, I have given you a just account of the victuals that feeds the Masters, the servants, and the slaves of this Iland: and now you see the provision the Iland affords, give me leave to shew you what feasts they can (when they will) make for their friends, upon their Plantations, which that I may the better doe, I will make two bills of fare; the one for an Inland Plantation, the other for a Plantation neer the sea, of such meat and such plenty of that, as I have seen and eaten of, at either of those Plantations; And for the Inland Plantation, I will make choyce of Colonel _James Draxes_, at whose Table I have found well drest, these following meates; for the first Course whereof there hath been two messes of meat and both equally good, and this feast is alwayes when he kils a beef, which he feeds extreamely fat, giving him a dozen acres of Bonavist to go loose in, and due times of watering.

First then (because beefe being the greatest rarity in the Iland, especially such as this is) I will begin with it, and of that sort there are these dishes at either messe, a Rompe boyl’d, a Chine roasted, a large piece of the brest roasted, the Cheeks bak’d, of which is a dish to either messe, the tongue and part of the tripes minc’t for Pyes, season’d with sweet Herbs finely minc’t, suet, Spice and Currans; the legges, pallets and other ingredients for an Olio Podrido to either messe, a dish of Marrow bones, so here are 14 dishes at the Table and all of beef: and this he intends as the great Regalio, to which he invites his fellow planters; who having well eaten of it, the dishes are taken away, and another Course brought in, which is a Potato pudding, a dish of Scots Collips of a legge of Porke, as good as any in the world, a fricacy of the same, a dish of boyl’d Chickens, a shoulder of a young Goate drest with his bloud and tyme, a Kid with a pudding in his belly, a sucking pig, which is there the fattest whitest & sweetest in the world, with the poynant sauce of the brains, salt, sage, and Nutmeg done with Claret wine, a shoulder of mutton which is there a rare dish, a Pasty of the side of a young Goate, and a side of a fat young Shot upon it, well season’d with Pepper and salt, and with some Nutmeg, a loyne of Veale, to which there wants no sauce being so well furnisht with Oranges, Lymons, and Lymes, three young Turkies in a dish, two Capons, of which sort I have seen some extreame large and very fat, two henns with egges in a dish, four Ducklings, eight Turtle doves, and three Rabbets; and for cold bak’t meats, two Muscovie Ducks larded, and season’d well with pepper and salt: and these being taken off the Table, another course is set on, and that is of _Westphalia_ or Spanish bacon, dried Neats Tongues, Botargo, pickled Oysters, Caviare, Anchoves, Olives, and (intermixt with these) Custards, Creams, some alone, some with preserves of Plantines, Bonano, Guavers, put in, and those preserv’d alone by themselves, Cheese-cakes, Puffes, which are to be made with English flower, and bread; for the Cassavie will not serve for this kind of Cookerie; sometimes Tansies, sometimes Froizes, or Amulets, and for fruite, Plantines, Bonanoes, Guavers, Milons, prickled Peare, Anchove Peare, prickled Apple, Custard Apple, water Milons, and Pines worth all that went before. To this meat you seldome faile of this drink, Mobbie, Beveridge, Brandy, kill-Divell, Drink of the Plantine, Claret wine, White wine, and Renish wine, Sherry, Canary, Red sack, wine of _Fiall_, with all Spirits that come from _England_; and with all this, you shall finde as cheerfull a look, and as hearty a welcome, as any man can give to his best friends. And so much for a Feast of an inland Plantation.